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  1. Replies
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    Re: Fruit accords formulae

    "Grapefruit" is pretty easy, simply start with Methyl Pamplemousse.

    PK
  2. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    This is a file I started to work on preparing research for Zoologist Perfumes, compiling a compendium about musks and animalics.

    I have learned more, and added more to another version, that I will...
  3. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    http://www.basenotes.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=37756&stc=1

    This is a small Graph of musk types
  4. Thread: Nirvanolide

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    Re: Nirvanolide

    Not available to Pleebs, I'm afraid... It's captive.

    PK
  5. Replies
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    Re: Need help with.....

    Here's what I perceived:

    Hobbyist wants to know more, not sure where to start, and maybe not even sure what questions to ask.

    But really, with their question, my response was a guess as well. ...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance raw material of the day (FRMOTD)

    Funny!
  7. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance raw material of the day (FRMOTD)

    Today, Spanish Cedar Wood EO, Cedrela Odorata.

    Trying to build a doppleganger since the EO is so rare and hard to get, with high expense and unpredictable supply...

    Dry Herbal Woody slightly...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Guaiacwood melting

    Have you tried the microwave in 10 second bursts? (kinda depends on how much you're melting...)
    When melted, dilute to keep mobile, instead of repeatedly remelting.

    PK
  9. Replies
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    Re: Need help with.....

    Start here:

    http://www.amazon.com/Essence-Alchemy-Natural-History-Perfume/dp/1586857029

    PK
  10. Replies
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    Re: Lift Jasmine Sambac Absolute

    Depending on where you wish to place the green in your evaporation curve, and what type of green, another choice is glycolierral.

    PK
  11. Re: LIVE Perfumer Chat scheduled for Sunday May 3 at Noon EDT

    :tongue:
  12. Replies
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    Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    Like David Says, don't bother diluting with the IPM.

    If you like the scent, that's what is important, plus we can tell nothing unless we know more specifics of proportions...

    PK
  13. Replies
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    In the case of this perfume JCE tells how he smelled the mango milk and skin while on a tour in Egypt, and then composed the constituents writing a sketch of the fragrance on a napkin, the typical...
  14. Replies
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    No Worries, I always appreciate your opinions, and learning from you...

    PK
  15. Replies
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    No, I've not made it up, but when I read it, I also was horrified by the amount of Cassis base...

    PK
  16. Replies
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    I'd try Indolarome first, rather than Indolene.

    http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/product/indolarome/

    PK
  17. Replies
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    Re: Making Myrrh More Palatable

    The Myrrhs that I have bought through the years have really been all over the olfactory map.

    This is one of the very best Myrrhs that I've smelled, and available in small qty....
  18. Replies
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    Re: my perfume does not last ???

    You say it lasts on you. This is longevity.
    You say it doesn't project far past your skin, for other people to smell. This is diffusion.

    Placing Glucam P-20 in it will possibly/probably make it...
  19. Replies
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    Re: my perfume does not last ???

    My Suggestions:

    1. Raise the level of perfume concentrate to 20 and 25% in two trial mixtures, and smell what happens.

    2. If #1 fails, get a new perfume oil concentrate from another supplier,...
  20. Replies
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    Re: Making Myrrh More Palatable

    Sounds like this is Myrrh resinoid...? Is there a difference?

    PK
  21. Replies
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    601

    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Green Bell pepper:
    http://www.libertynatural.com/bulk/1784.htm
    But don't know who makes it... sorry.

    Robertet also has a Green pepper product, apparently.


    I also have a Piper Nigrum EO...
  22. Replies
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    And you could also use Green Pepper EO too...

    PK
  23. Replies
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    Re: creatingperfume.com

    Bernie, the SOS oils products are likely fragrance oils and not single molecule materials, correct?

    PK
  24. Replies
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    Re: my perfume does not last ???

    You could increase the % of dilution for a stronger scent.

    Have you already diluted your entire shipment, or did you make a small trial first?
    If you have diluted the total amount already, then...
  25. Replies
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Panda's Concept was all about being Chinese, since Pandas come from China. So including materials that related to China was what was important, even if only in small amounts.

    Paprika tincture...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Honeysuckle accord

    And you've checked the TGSC Demo Formulas already?

    Like this one?


    Honeysuckle 1


    Generic
  27. Replies
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    Hi, the Robertet Sechuan Pepper EO that I have, certainly has a hot kick to it on skin, and taste. Put it on your tongue straight up, and it will light you up, but not near as much as many nuclear...
  28. Replies
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    David, the CAS# for all 3 Sulfurol's is the same, so no help there...

    sorry.

    Sample hasn't arrived yet...

    PK
  29. Replies
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    Re: Eugenol repleacer?

    Yes, I like Dihydro Eugenol...

    PK
  30. Replies
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    David, I am working on a milky creamy accord, blending with a sandalwood accord, and ordered a sulfurol sample, and Vigon has three types:
    Milky, Meaty, and Bean

    I ordered the "Milky", but have...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    My hunch is that Opoponax is similar to Myrrh, in that it is often difficult to find the good stuff.

    I was fortunate that I found good Opoponax easily, while my hunt for good Myrrh took several...
  32. Replies
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    Re: Proportions in a fougere accord?

    Here's Four:

    You are responsible to decide what ingredients go into your formulae. These are examples to draw from and learn from.
    Please call them Formulas, not Recipes. The Formatting changes...
  33. Thread: Flouve

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    699

    Re: Flouve

    Payan Bertrand will sell to anyone of course, but you must meet their MOQ.

    PK
  34. Replies
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    Re: ...vanilla oil for perfume?

    Vanilla Extract is in a water base. So putting it into an oil base would be problematic.

    Food "Extracts" are water borne products.

    PK
  35. Replies
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    Re: GC/MS Essential Oils Analysis

    no.

    A normal, least expensive GC will give numbers/percentages for each molecule. Since many molecules make up each natural EO or Abs., someone needs to interpret and estimate the matchup of...
  36. Replies
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    Re: Alcohol % in small vintage guerlain

    And that doesn't mean that the remaining % is all aromatic, it could also mean that the remaining percentage is also other diluents, the labelled % means only the alcohol content which, must be...
  37. Replies
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    Re: Alcohol % in small vintage guerlain

    I'd say that this is a law fulfilling labelling requirement for the alcohol content, @ 83% Alcohol ...

    PK
  38. Replies
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    Re: Crimping machine

    Abhay, How many "teeth", or segments in the crimping jaw/collet ?

    Thanks,
    PK
  39. Replies
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    Bernhard, So sorry about the English...

    Freezer, about (-3C) to (-15C) or lower, temps...
    Refrigerator, often about 4C to 8C temp, or so...

    PK
  40. Replies
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    Freezer, not Refrigerator.
  41. Thread: Flouve

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    699

    Re: Flouve

    Well Gecko, I think that the difference between the EO and the Abs would be much smaller than between Hay and Flouve. I'd say, get some EO, to see if you wish to continue on the path of obsessing (...
  42. Replies
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    Re: Suggested filtering methods

    Freeze overnight both your filter paper and your solution, then filter the diluted perfume into another container. Done.

    PK
  43. Thread: Flouve

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    699

    Re: Flouve

    Sounds like it's quite a bit like Hay Absolute, but a little diff.

    I couldn't find a GC of it to see what it holds, or compares to Hay.

    PK
  44. Thread: Flouve

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    699

    Re: Flouve

    ? http://indofrencharomatics.com/neo.html ?

    Have a call in to another supplier for you. How much do you want?

    PK
  45. Thread: Dandelion scent

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    809

    Re: Dandelion scent

    Chrestomanthic, Have you been acquainted with the Perfumers Search Tool?

    http://www.perfumersearch.com/
    Use the left menu to search using about six different parameters and search types.

    On...
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    Re: Solvent extraction of Boswelia

    No, Not hard at all. Simply place the ground up resin into alcohol, weighing out all components so as to know how to repeat it.

    Most of the resin will dissolve into the alcohol. Strain out...
  47. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    You're kidding, right?

    Even if one wanted to do so, you'd have to obtain it. Good luck with that.

    PK
  48. Replies
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    Re: Breaking into the Fragrance Industry

    Move to New Jersey, and seek work in the Flavor/Fragrance Industry/Laboratories there. Then look for some further steps to accomplish your goal. Your timeline would be about a decade to get to the...
  49. Replies
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    Re: Where to find good headspace analyses?

    The right libraries can cost above $8,000 USD on up, out of the box, before research work is done to make the library customized to your workflow and customer needs and requirements.


    PK
  50. Thread: Dandelion scent

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    809

    Re: Dandelion scent

    Mumsy, I sent you the article you requested...

    PK
  51. Replies
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    Re: DIY attar making - is it really so simple?

    That's not an attar.

    Attars are distilled essences/oil, into the substrate of choice, in this case, Sandalwood oil.

    You are discussing an infusion.
    And personally, it takes a whole lot of...
  52. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I have a kilo of Opoponax Resin Absolute 50 if you want some.

    PK
  53. Thread: Dandelion scent

    by pkiler
    Replies
    19
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    809

    Re: Dandelion scent

    You inspired me to post this to FB...
    http://www.basenotes.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=36995&stc=1
  54. Thread: Dandelion scent

    by pkiler
    Replies
    19
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    809

    Re: Dandelion scent

    I think it's off to Google land to see what you can find...

    PK
  55. Re: Veratraldehyde? Where can I get a small(ish) amount?

    100g = $28 at Santa Cruz Biotech
    1Kg = $121 at Sigma Aldrich

    These seem to be the best prices, which is odd, given that these sources are almost always higher than other sources. Not this time....
  56. Replies
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    Re: Elderflower accord

    This is from the Fruit, not the flower... Not really the same thing...

    Nonetheless, this is the Quantitative GC from that same study, if it helps you, I have a $35 per month subscription that...
  57. Thread: Vinyl smell ?

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    685

    Re: Vinyl smell ?

    If your project is not for skin, I can send you some Phenol. I'm dying to give a bunch away... But really, 5ml will likely last any one person the rest of their life. But I have a whole Kg.
    ...
  58. Replies
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    Re: ...vanilla oil for perfume?

    That reminds me, I'f got a stunning African Ginger Oleoresin (Dark and smoky) that Mike Storer turned me on to, from Vigon. I need to understand it better too...

    PK
  59. Replies
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    Re: Dilution of essential oil for perfume oils

    Your final dilution of perfume into carrier would be between 10-20%, most commonly.

    Your % of naturals inside of that blend would depend upon your choices and your philosophy of materials use.
    ...
  60. Replies
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    Re: Out of this world lavender

    I think the Maillete is also my favorite varietal lavender. Of course dependant upon location and distillation, you'll find differences.

    PK
  61. Replies
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    Re: Where to find good headspace analyses?

    When I checked last, (for a headspace on Chicken wings), they quoted me about $750 for their analysis.

    If you buy an air sampling pump (I have two), and a poropak trap setup, you can construct a...
  62. Replies
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    791

    Re: ...vanilla oil for perfume?

    I've got a Vanilla Extract product here that Christine brought me from UK, that I need to get to, to see what can be done with it, still another food type product... I'm wondering if if could be...
  63. Replies
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    791

    Re: ...vanilla oil for perfume?

    Likely because there are no essential oils of Vanilla.

    CO2's : Yes
    Absolutes : Yes
    Oleoresin : Yes

    Essential oil? : Nope.

    Anyone selling an essential oil of Vanilla is lying.
  64. Replies
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    Re: Making a Pipe tobacco cologne

    I had a tremendous problem finding unflavored tobacco when I wanted to do something. It might take a bunch of digging to find the right tobacco, since most, if not all available here is heavily...
  65. Re: Diluting Vanillin / Ethyl Vanillin Crystals (Aroma Chemicals) and Isolates

    Likely, if you make the Ethyl Vanillin as a part of a larger blend, you can simply place the crystals into your other concentrate materials, or rather, place the ethyl vanillin FIRST into your...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Mixture Suggestion HELP!!!!

    Like David says, take out the DPG and the Civet, and see how it works for you...

    PK
  67. Replies
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    Re: Hedione in the news

    Thank you Ed for posting this! :-)

    PK
  68. Replies
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    Re: Super E Iso, Ambroxan, Timbersilk, etc

    rmike, Yes, 192 is real, just don't be stupid and drink it straight...

    PK
  69. Replies
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    Re: Create notes separately or in one go?

    Yes, I creat notes seperately, but they are not base, middle or top notes usually. They are more like the aspects/notes/accords instead. once in awhile, I will make a topnotes accord, but also it...
  70. Replies
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    1,191

    Re: Super E Iso, Ambroxan, Timbersilk, etc

    RMIKE, yes, pure ethanol / Ethyl Alcohol / Perfumers Alcohol / Spirytus 192 proof Vodka is just fine...

    PK
  71. Replies
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    Re: Need a recipe for alcohol perfume???

    Please stop calling what you ask for, a 'recipe'. Please use "Formula" instead.
  72. Replies
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    Re: Confused About Recipe Amounts

    As an average, a drop will weigh 0.020g
    Therefore:

    Lemon - 10 drops = 0.2g
    Jasmine Grandiflorum - 8 drops = 0.16g
    Sandalwood - 30 drops = 0.6g

    Total weight = 0.96g -ish

    multiply this out...
  73. Re: How to speed up the blending/curing process of a fragrance

    140F degrees may not be harmful,... but less temp would likely be better...

    I only heat what materials need it, all by themselves, and try not to heat more than I need to dissolve something.
    I'm...
  74. Thread: Making Mystikal

    by pkiler
    Replies
    16
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    1,064

    Re: Making Mystikal

    I have a Small photoshoot in San Diego that I'll be doing tomorrow, I'm trying to see if I can stop by my Perfume Chemist's office to discuss this with him, maybe he's got some ideas...

    PK
  75. Re: Just about everything you wanted to know about CITRUS!

    A great resource! THANKS!

    PK
  76. Replies
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    1,069

    Re: Confused About Recipe Amounts

    Working in drops is for beginners, trying to learn.
    Anyone else working in the field weighs all materials.

    So to multiply your FORMULA out, weigh the required number of drops of each element in...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Confused About Recipe Amounts

    FORMULA, not recipe...
  78. Replies
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    2,132

    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    http://www.basenotes.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=36696&stc=1
  79. Thread: Making Mystikal

    by pkiler
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,064

    Re: Making Mystikal

    I've got my Perfume Chemist looking at it...

    PK
  80. Thread: Making Mystikal

    by pkiler
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,064

    Re: Making Mystikal

    Here's the pertinent reading material:
    http://www.google.com/patents/WO2010063133A1?cl=en

    PK
  81. Replies
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    Re: Smell of Spring in the air :)

    Indeed, What my Pentecost perfume is about...

    PK
  82. Replies
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    420

    Re: waxy notes in rose otto bases

    Try those things with decanol in the name, of some sort or another...

    PK
  83. Replies
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    885

    Re: Smell of Spring in the air :)

    I was smelling methyl benzoate in the picked flowers yesterday...

    PK
  84. Thread: Making Mystikal

    by pkiler
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,064

    Re: Making Mystikal

    Sorry, travelling in Northern California...
    Yes, Mike Storer and I are working this out...

    PK
  85. Thread: Making Mystikal

    by pkiler
    Replies
    16
    Views
    1,064

    Re: Making Mystikal

    A friend Perfumer and I have been working on this, but not having much success yet...

    I actually really need want this for a new scent for Zoologist..., if we can make it...

    PK
  86. Sticky: Re: Stickies are mainly gone, but please read this one

    Since you are soliciting opinions, and everybody's got one...

    To me, "Community" is the ultimate goal.

    If something builds Community, then great. If it tears down Community, then I'd rather...
  87. Replies
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    621

    Re: J Steele Perfumer's Apprentice Attars

    Steele's products are not stocked and shipped from PA's warehouse, but directly from Steele's offices/shipping. So for PA to say they don't know what they smell like is not surprising...
  88. Re: The Height Of Cultivation Always Runs Back To Simplicity

    Hi Nature...

    The smallest number of ingredients that I used to compose a perfume was an all natural challenge to create a scent on the subject of "Winter Freshness" (Winter of 2013-2014), and as...
  89. Replies
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    2,132

    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    Yes, several perfumers I know tincture goat hair from rutting goats...

    There are a few US domestic perfumers that buy and tincture real deer musk. They just sent me a couple of grams tincture...
  90. Replies
    5
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    630

    Re: Rose accord confusion

    Absolute of Rose smells different than distilled EO of Rose.

    Most likely these formulae you see could be considered as "extenders", or to take the real, and blend in synths to extend the value and...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Ingredients... If money were no object

    Nice to meet you Jeremiah... :-)
  92. Replies
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    578

    Re: Cost estimate for Aromachemical Library

    look at this:
    http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/c-58-educational-kits.aspx



    PK
  93. Replies
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    Re: Ingredients... If money were no object

    I didn't say that you could really/actually find some of these...

    PK
  94. Replies
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    Re: Formula - patou prive / ma liberte?

    Maybe not. I can tell you that Patou Pour Homme Vintage is GC'd at 18 molecules.

    PK
  95. Replies
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    582

    Re: Formula - patou prive / ma liberte?

    Have you sent them out for a GC-MS analysis?

    PK
  96. Replies
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    826

    Re: Ingredients... If money were no object

    Vanilla CO2 from Robertet, $12,000USD/Kg
    Rose: there are so many... You'd have to see which ones you liked...
    Oakmoss: Don't really know of any better or worse...
    Sandalwood: 100 Year old aged...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Best source to purchase Perfumers Alcohol

    Find whatever you need here:
    http://www.perfumersearch.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=7&Itemid=8




    PK
  98. Replies
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    647

    Re: Vanilla and musk ketone

    1. Alcohol is fine. make sure it is 190 proof or higher. Weigh out your powder and your alcohol. Then you know your dilution.
    But actually, you don't even need to dilute it, you can simply add...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Diffusion Formula (portion) Calculation

    Zemlya, Thanks for the heads up on this book, I had not seen it before...

    I bought a paper copy of the book, but thanks for the offer... :-)

    PK
  100. Re: In Search Of: Best Supplier of Roll On Bottles With Stainless Steel Roller Ball (That Doesn't Le

    Offhand, Roller dispensers seem to me to be a disaster for alcohol based perfumes especially, but also generally for Perfumery.

    PK
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