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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Incidentally, re Bas de soie, there's a note I am hypersensitive to, it feels very swampy to me. But many other people don't find it that way.
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    Re: Vintage POAL Worth Seeking Out?

    I'd say no. It's probably not as strong as it was, but it's still nuclear power, so I'm happy with the current version.
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    Re: Kouros Soothing Shaving Foam

    I never find such things...

    These things contain so many preservatives that it's certainly still good to use. So if you do shave, just enjoy!


    cacio
  4. Thread: Naming notes

    by cacio
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    Re: Naming notes

    Yes, quite often one smells a (usually synthetic) molecule or accord, but, not being a perfumer, one doesn't associate it with a name.

    And reading the official notes is usually of little help...
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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Learning something new (about French that is). In Italian, the corresponding word means not bed, but sleeping place for animals (and it doesn't mean nappy).

    Also, in French coucher avec means have...
  6. Thread: Soap battle

    by cacio
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    Re: Soap battle

    I like the top of Castile very much, then it gets a little too soapy for me. But then I don't like soap.
    My vote for Castile anyway.
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    Re: Edmond Roudnitska at the Osmothèque

    Beautiful bottles!

    I as looking on ebay and I saw a couple listed for a very high price. Though it's just a listing, doesn't mean anybody will buy them.

    cacio
  8. Thread: Iris Question

    by cacio
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    Re: Iris Question

    I assume there are no samples of Iris Nazarena because it is quite expensive and from a small brand.

    I tried it and it is indeed very good, not so much for the iris, but it's the combination of...
  9. Thread: Iris Question

    by cacio
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    Re: Iris Question

    ISM: it has been reformulated, but not to a shade of itself. The original was darker, almost menacing. The newer one is not as dark and has the bready note typical of modern iris. So still...
  10. Re: Amouage Lyric Woman: caps, formulations and whatnot

    I don't know about the bottles.

    I find the current version rather thin and unsatisfying. I remember something bigger 10+ years ago, but memory could be at fault. You should not assume that a...
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    Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I agree that towards the base Oud Ispahan and Leather oud converge. Lyric woman probably used to be dark, but the latest I have smelled was not good. Thin rose, without much depth.

    cacio
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    Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Welcome!

    Interesting that you put Oud Ispahan among the examples of stinky oud. For me, it would be a great example of western rose-oud (ie in your first category). Although it's true that it is...
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    Re: Rate of evaporation?

    As others were saying. Almost no bottle is 100% sealed, so things will tend to evaporate over time. But extremely slowly (decades or more) for things that are sealed relatively well (which is the...
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    Re: Azurea by L.T. Piver

    Lovely bottle!

    I know nothing about this perfume. I've seen other vintage Piver parfums and the presentations were always lovely (like Pompeia). The bottle looks old and back then perfumes were...
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    Re: Edmond Roudnitska at the Osmothèque

    Thanks for the writeup. Really interesting!

    I did not know he had produced for Arden what I assume must be far superior perfumes than what Arden sells now.
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    Re: Any "Must Try" Le Labo City Exclusives?

    I don't think the exclusives are worthy anywhere near $30 for a sample (I'm not sure any of them is FWB anyway). Just wait for when they are in store.

    That said, my favorite, and the only one I...
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    Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Very informative guide. Adding stuff to my to-try list.

    Seconding Ken. I'd be happy to hear your opinions on some classics like Pino silvestre and Acqua di Selva. And coniferous aromatic Itaian...
  18. Re: Current versions of fragrances in your collection

    Most of my collection is new stuff I bought over the last 10 years, so mostly it's new stuff.
    when I recommend, I always try to specify whether I am talking about current or vintage. (often with...
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    Re: Recc Me An Unconventional Summer Fragrance!

    Have you tried CDG2 man? I'd call it fresh incense. Woody and dry, but still a bit fresh. Niche but not particularly expensive.

    cacio
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    Re: Niche Fragrance for an older mother

    If it is within budget, I agree on the suggestion of Amouage. Amouage Gold is a big floral, not dark. Amouage Fate is a rich oriental, but it would be a touch dark.

    cacio
  21. Thread: Caron pour Homme

    by cacio
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    Re: Caron pour Homme

    I cannot think about a Caron masculine that i really dislike. Although the classic trio is still the best for me.

    different story for the ones for women, many of which have been reformulated...
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    Re: Fragrances with a dominant 'dried fruits' note

    Lutens was the king of these notes. When I saw the title, I thought of arabie too. In the line, I'll mention also Feminite des bois and Boxeuses (respectively woods and leather with candied fruit).
    ...
  23. Re: Sampling suggestions from Amouage, CdG, other niche houses

    Amouage tends to be heavy, musky, floral-so not sure the house will click overall.

    CDG does have a lot of industrial and chemical, especially in the special series (tar, garage, etc). It also has...
  24. Re: Sour note in dry down of Music f.a. While + Au coeur du desert?

    I don't know about the specifics. But patchouli can come in different forms. Sometimes it's more dry and woody, other times more earthy, other times sourish. So it could be ok for you in some...
  25. Poll: Re: Which Chanel As A Gift? (Please Vote To Help Out)

    Great idea, and great choice set. She's certainly going to find something that clicks.
    cacio
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    Re: Summer Purchase Advice

    Welcome!

    I think that vetivers do very well in warm and humid weather. So in your list the TF, but also other vetivers from various brands, like guerlain vetiver or CDG Vetiveru.
  27. Re: The 10 Fragrances I Can't Get Out of My Head and Am Totally Obsessed With Right Now OMG!

    I wish I could like Bois d'Orage. Love the top, then there's a note that I find grating and ruins it for me.

    As for something I'm currently enjoying a lot: Azemour les orangers. Sort of old style...
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    Poll: Re: Chamade vs Nahema

    With Guerlain, one has to make sure to smell the current version, because these have changed quite a bit.

    As for your question, i have not tried current Chamade or Nahema, so not sure how they...
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    Re: Perfume that lasts all day (???)

    Welcome!

    Traditional Estee Lauders like Youth Dew and Azuree come to mind (both woody, spicy, ambery), Also, Aromatics Elixir. If you like some sweetness, Angel.
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    Re: Boadicea The Victorious

    I bought Complex, which is a monster leather. Dry, chemical, strong. Unwearable but fun to smell. More recent reviews don't give that impression, which suggests that perhaps it has been reformulated....
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    I second some of the suggested brands. Especially Etat Libre d'Orange, perhaps my favorite brand. Not extremely expensive, and they have an inexpensive sample set.

    cacio
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    Re: Sample Pass: THE ZOO

    The strength and chemical aspect is what I like in Club design. In fact, I was a touch disappointed by Carre blanc because after the exciting opening, it toned down a bit. But I see you didn't like...
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    Re: Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose on a Man?

    I have always thought that these violet-rose "makeup" perfumes were perfect for the younger crowd that is now sporting beards last seen in Edwardian times (when men still used floral perfumes with...
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    Re: Help a very ancient member re. Amouage :)

    Amouage and blind buying don't seem to go in the same sentence...

    Anyway, for me the standout was Interlude, for the sheer power. Woody-herbal punch.

    I enjoyed the others as well but not as...
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    Re: Dior Oud Ispahan - Age?

    I like Dior Ispahan and I think it would fit very well. It has a dark woody base (not miles away from the butcher Leather oud), but with rose.
    I do prefer it to the Armani because it is stronger...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    All very good and hard to choose. If forced
    Caron pour un homme: classic lavender
    Dior Homme: woody-gourmand
    Fahrenheit: violet leather

    (but how to leave Guerlain vetiver out?)

    cacio
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    Re: acqua di parma suggestion

    Agree. Essenza is soapier, so I prefer assoluta.
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    Re: Chanel eau de cologne

    The color of the juice need not be a problem, it could be the pic. It's more that this seems fishy. In an undescript refill bottle (ie which can be filled with any type of liquid).
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    Re: Why not artisanal

    Because designers can be great too.

    But I agree with you that many artisanal houses deserve more attention and produce stuff that's better than most designer stuff.

    cacio
  40. Thread: Aftershave balms

    by cacio
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    Re: Aftershave balms

    As others said, they're not about the perfume. Plus, the idea of adding a potential irritant (perfume) to irritated (ie just shaved) skin is a bit counterintuitive.
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    Re: Rank My Fragrances

    For me: standout is Fahrenheit. Followed by Dior homme cologne, and third Grey vetiver.
  42. Poll: Re: Which Chanel As A Gift? (Please Vote To Help Out)

    Not a particular fan of others in the line (Allure, Coco noir, Coco mademoiselle, gabrielle), they all feel too mainstream-y, in one way or the other.

    I wouldn't say no 19 is mean. I think any of...
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    Re: Perfumed business cards

    darinaldi

    very interesting article. Surprising that the kaiser had a visiting card!
    cacio
  44. Poll: Re: Which Chanel As A Gift? (Please Vote To Help Out)

    I voted for No 19 because it seems to me no 5 would seem a bit too proper and classic (and she seems to be a touch unconventional), but Cristalle would be too cold. No 19 seems to strike a better...
  45. Re: Help Me Understand Chanel, With People (No. 5, Coco, No. 19, Cristalle)

    Welcome!

    Generalizing perhaps too much, Chanel has usually been associated with an idea of cold elegance, that is, refined, elegant, but perhaps a bit unapproachable. In this sense, not unlike the...
  46. Re: Men’s Fragrances That Still Stand Out (No clones, nothing smells similar.)

    I'd say things like Fahrenheit and Kouros (depsite the reformulations) are still quite unique.
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    Re: Perfumed business cards

    Nice commercial!

    Agree with others. It could be a good idea but it depends on circumstance. In business dealings, this would be unusual, so one has to consider carefully. It depends on the...
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    Re: Sex and the Sea Neroli by Francesca Bianchi

    Thanks! Very intriguing.
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    Re: Name names - More rhubarb please

    I got both discovery sets and I enjoyed the house. Most of them are avant garde, and a lot of fun. Standouts for me were rhubarb, fig, and scent tattoo/club design.
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    Re: Best way to travel with a few scents?

    If you have a Container Store nearby, they have some inexpensive plastic 5 or 10 ml ones that are perfect for travel. You do not want glass because inevitably, on a ship, it will fall and break.
    ...
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    Re: Sex and the Sea Neroli by Francesca Bianchi

    Describe etruscan water! you make me curious
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    Re: Name names - More rhubarb please

    Seconding mike. Rhubarb my love by the Zoo is as per name, and wonderful. On my to buy list.

    cacio
  53. Re: Diptyque 10-ml minis - where are they coming from?

    I forget, did diptyque ever have travel sizes?
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    Re: The Future's So Bright....

    As you probably know, sunglasses are a must in italy...

    I have a mix of cheap drugstore and designer ones. Sometimes I'd like to buy really wild ones, but have not yet.

    cacio
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    Re: Amouage Portrayal

    I finally tried this (a sample I got in the Amouage store in Rome). As others were saying, it's an interesting combination of rooty-powdery violet (flower and leaf) and a smokey leather (cade). The...
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    Re: Sex and the Sea Neroli by Francesca Bianchi

    You make me curious about this one because marine or aquatic notes are more about fish and seaweed than sex for me. But I did enjoy smelling some FB before, so who knows.
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    Re: Fragrances in the Eau Sauvage family?

    Originally, Eau Sauvage was firmly into the citrus chypre territory. So the earlier Chanel pour monsieur, O de Lancome, Piguet Cravache.

    With the oakmoss restrictions, the drydown is different,...
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    Re: Men's Wallets - What do you carry?

    alligator and lambskin sounds really luxurious!

    Re Faure Le Page, i did not know the brand, so i just checked now. they (used to?) make weapons. They still have gun cases in the same motif as the...
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    Re: Men's Wallets - What do you carry?

    The embossed motive is a little cheaper than the actual intrecciato, but still looks good. I also bought sneakers for my mom in the same embossed leather...
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    Re: Men's Wallets - What do you carry?

    Beautiful examples.

    I still have an old Italian wallet, but just bought a Bottega Veneta card holder on sale
    https://www.bottegaveneta.com/us/card-case_cod46615720cq.html

    (note, this is not...
  61. Re: Bigarade Concentree vs other Ellena Hermes Citruses?

    I agree with the others. It's a nice perfume, and arguably superior to the Hermes offers (which are quite nice). Still, as all citrus notes, it's not particularly long lasting, so I'm always hesitant...
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    Poll: Re: Poll: Most Complex Amouage Fragrance For Men

    I've heard the association Gold man and baby powder before-not for me, but as usual, we all have different associations. (Once I also heard the association Gold man - Tres flores hair pommade, which...
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    Poll: Re: Poll: Most Complex Amouage Fragrance For Men

    Yes, I do own a 100ml of Gold. I like florals a lot.
    As usual with Amouage, one needs to check the latest version. Mine is from 7-8 years ago.

    cacio
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    Poll: Re: Poll: Most Complex Amouage Fragrance For Men

    I voted Other, I'm thinking Gold. In the three you mention, not sure, perhaps Myths. Jub XXV seems more incense centric, so perhaps it's not as complex as others. Interlude is bigger, but not...
  65. Re: NEW: Maison Lancome Les Grands Crus (4 New Ones and 2 Relaunches)!!

    Wearing the fig one today. It's as hednic was saying. Tart and fruity, and on the sweet end of the spectrum, still quite realistic. Very pleasant. My favorite fig remains the zoo one, but this is...
  66. Re: NEW: Maison Lancome Les Grands Crus (4 New Ones and 2 Relaunches)!!

    Thanks! Looking forward to trying it then. I tend to prefer sharper figs (favorite is The Zoo Fig my love), but fruit is good too. And good to know that the patch is also worth smelling.
  67. Re: Recommendations for HOT weather frags? Non-typical citrus..

    For hot and humid weather, I go for vetivers, which I find very fresh.

    As for Amouage, nothing really comes to mind except Lyric and Silver.

    cacio
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    Beautiful Lanvins! I don't think i've ever seen their vetiver.
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    Re: Fathers day present

    If you are tied to Creed, Aventus, Bois de portugal and Green Irish Tweed should all do.
    Otherwise, you can check in another expensive line, Amouage, luxurious though not really fresh (apart from...
  70. Re: NEW: Maison Lancome Les Grands Crus (4 New Ones and 2 Relaunches)!!

    hednic

    what's your opinion of these?I think I got a sample of the fig one. (I got samples because I bought a 30 ml of jasmine marzipan for the record).

    caco
  71. Re: NEW: Maison Lancome Les Grands Crus (4 New Ones and 2 Relaunches)!!

    Resurrecting because in Italy I got to smell some of the new installments.

    Magnolia rosae is a pink floral with some of the magnolia aspects (the citrus, the waxy part), and a bit sweetish. Pretty...
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    Re: Riviera Vacation - what do you take?

    Re Acqua Amara: I don't like marine. But if you do like the stye, that's an interesting one, because it has a nice bitter citrus over the marine base.
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    I don't know how old the Tabu set is. It look like the 50s or so.
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    Lovely! I have not seen the bars myself, so they must have stopped some time ago. I did buy the shower gel when it was available, but that has sadly been discontinued a couple of years ago-mine is a...
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    Re: Dior Leather Oud - Discontinued?

    Sounds strange... perhaps discontinued in the sense that they don't put it out in the US. They probably will use the display space for the new watery florals
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    I have another Bandit showergel I am using for the gym...
    So far, btw, it seems it's still possible to find it for $15-$20 on ebay-hope for a long time.

    cacio
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    The Tabu is the only set I still have (too old to use, and cute)
    http://www.cagetti.com/Pictures/tabu_set.jpg
    I also have a Coty/stetson 1980s reissue set, but just of perfumes....
  78. Thread: Rome, Italy

    by cacio
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    Re: Rome, Italy

    I don't know, but perhaps you can ask. Note that in Rome there is also a big Dior exclusives counter at the Rinascente department store in via del Tritone.

    cacio
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    Re: L'Entier by Robert Piguet

    Resurrecting because I got to smell this. Today it's really hot, so not really the right day.
    I don't detect much oud in this. More like a combo of gourmand and light marine. Neither genre really...
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    Re: Dior Vetiver - still available?

    Great purchase. This is perfect for the summer, now that the heat is back here in the US.
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    Re: Show Your Vintage Fragrance Sets

    Beautiful sets! I do occasionally buy those too-I like to use perfumed shower gel. I'll see what I have still (most I would have used).

    cacio
  82. Thread: Parfumeide

    by cacio
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    Re: Parfumeide

    Thanks for the info!

    That sounds like what could have happened. My bottle says Cuir Tobacco, and it corresponds to your description. So it's likely that the tester was Cuir Encens-I don't recall a...
  83. Thread: The Harmonist

    by cacio
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    Re: The Harmonist

    Resurrecting this because in Italy I happened to see the line. I only tried one, Sacred water. A combination of stereotypical synthetic masculine materials, dihydromircenol, metallic-ozonic stuff,...
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    Re: Fix for a bottle that doesn't spray well?

    In my experience, in most such cases there is no easy solution.
    What I do then is to remove the sprayer (with gloves and shears) and then decant into another atomizer.

    cacio
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    Re: Riviera Vacation - what do you take?

    Re vettiveru, I think that at some point it was repackaged, but not sure about the details. I would not worry about things being genuine, this is not something that gets faked.

    cacio
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    Re: Your Favorite Neroli Fragrances?

    Seconding cologne sologne, for the cost. I have a 1 liter bottle and it's so cheap I also spray it on gym stuff etc.

    For something expensive, Amouage Silver: not just neroli, though.

    cacio
  87. Re: What do you guys think of Vilhelm Perfumerie?

    For what I remember, I have tried one, Mango skin, which is quite literal. Long lasting, but I don't go for that type of fruitiness.

    Curious to hear other opinions.

    cacio
  88. Re: What do you guys think of Vilhelm Perfumerie?

    For what I remember, I have tried one, Mango skin, which is quite literal. Long lasting, but I don't go for that type of fruitiness.

    Curious to hear other opinions.

    cacio
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    Re: Riviera Vacation - what do you take?

    A vetiver (Guerlain vetiver was apparently developed for the Mexican market). Many possibilities depending on price etc. CDG vetiveru is not too expensive and very fresh.

    cacio
  90. Thread: Must be my skin

    by cacio
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    Re: Must be my skin

    As others were saying. A combination of factors. I have mostly dry skin and don't keep perfume well. And simply, some materials are fleeting to start with (eg citrus).

    cacio
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    Re: Gloria Swanson Got Me

    Sorry to hear about your experience. It has happened to me too in the past to have a vintage bottle that was partially refilled with unrelated liquid (in one case, yellow floor cleaner). It just...
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    Re: Parfum d`Empire - Tabac Tabou

    I was given a sample from the current tester at the Jovoy store in Paris, so I don't know what version it is, but I assume their tester is whatever the latest bottle is.

    cacio
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    Re: AdP Colonia Assoluta or Mazzolari Nero

    Is Mazzolari nero the Aventus-clone?

    Quite different. The colonia is a colonia (soapy citrus), nero is more complex and not as fresh. I'd vote for nero, unless you really want a colonia.

    cacio
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    Re: Vintage Coty Perfumes, Reconsidered

    I agree that Crepe de Chine is closely related to Chypre. But to my nose not more than Mitsouko. Crepe de Chine to my nose is quite different in the top, where crepe de chine is aldehydic and floral....
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    Re: How Old is to Old?

    No worry. 5 years is nothing in perfume time.
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    Re: Underwhelmed by M7

    I haven't smelled the recent version so I'm surprised that it is thin.

    In general, though, even regarding the first version, it was innovative back then. But with about 1500 ouds in western...
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    Re: Parfum d`Empire - Tabac Tabou

    Resurrecting this thread because I finally (after a long time) got to try Tabac Tabou. Very nice top, dry tobacco with leather, animalics, and animalic florals. Eventually leading to a subdued...
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    Re: How to get (my nose) on Dior - Mitzwah

    I was in Paris but don't remember seeing it outside in the lineup, but perhaps they have old stock in the back. Dior has increased the distribution of the expensive line in France (and not only), so...
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    Re: My summer wardrobe needs your advice

    How about a vetiver without tobacco? $$$ Malle Vetiver extraordinaire is the freshest I can think of. But CDG vetiveru will do as well.

    Egoiste for the summer has me really puzzled...

    cacio
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    Re: Santa Maria Novella mini documentary

    The toothpaste doesn't really smell of iris. Plus it's old style and doesn't have foaming agents. They also have mouthwashes, one spicy and one with myrrh, if I remember correctly.
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