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  1. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy pre-made accords

    This is the only all natural accords and bases that I am aware of for sale in small quantities.
    You could find others, but you'll likely need to buy in 5kg MOQ. Or maybe larger. And from bigger...
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    Re: Hello! New and need help

    GMT, you should familiarize yourself extremely well, with the database at TGSC, which is most easily searched and accessed via www.perfumersearch.com
    On the left column are several types of...
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    Re: Patchouli Flower

    I would ask Susan at CP.com, what it is, but my thought is that it is a fantasy note, and not a real or naturally inspired item.
  4. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    I don't think I am capable to answer on what was used prior to my time of learning, for alcohol content, at least without some intensive research on your behalf, so I leave that question for you to...
  5. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    Some materials solve into water better than alcohol, so sometimes, 190 is fine.

    Honestly, I don't buy 200 anymore, I just buy the 190 for everything.
    Makes life a bit simpler...
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    I was just thinking of veloutone, but I am a little hesitant, until I can get the real fruit to smell.
    But I am curious, how much Rose is in there, Any thought for that?
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    OKAY Quince experts!

    I have three headspace GC's to consult with for Quince:

    Chinese Quince, or Chaenomeles sinensis

    Japanese Quince, or Chaenomeles speciosa (sweet) Nakai

    and
    Quince, or...
  8. Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    Well, it will last a lot longer! :-)
    How is it?
  9. Re: New to Fragrance-Making - Seeking Some Advice from Old Pros

    I have paid for nearly 20 GC tests, personally. Six of these results cost $1000 each. About three cost $400, the rest cost $100. Now, I pay $175, and get a pretty good result, loads better than...
  10. Re: New to Fragrance-Making - Seeking Some Advice from Old Pros

    Question #1

    Looking over a GC for a Calvin Klein fragrance that I am studying, I see that the topnotes can be given at 0.26%, middle at 31.38%, and the basenotes at 58.63%.
    This fragrance indeed...
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    Re: Quince accord question for you

    MiDDen, While I was in the Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam, following receipt of my golden pear A+O Award, One subject i sought was to see if there was a third painting that might inspire a third perfume...
  12. Thread: Magnol

    by pkiler
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    Re: Magnol

    Still pure, on my hand, I get a rubber puck, almost industrial rubber glove from the Magnol.
  13. Thread: Magnol

    by pkiler
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    Re: Magnol

    I have a Magnol sample, but the level is quite high in the bottle, it is possible that I've never used it.
    I put a pure swipe on my hand to smell it with you...
    Honestly, I have trouble pulling...
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    Uh, I see PK there! HAHAHA!
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    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    Wesley, That Givaudan Perfumer word of "builder", I think is the perfect descriptor...
    Excellent...
    Am purging all usage of "Blender" in my mind, replacing it with "Builder".

    :-)
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    Quince accord question for you

    Since I am researching the odor profile of Quince fruit, as it is out of my range of experiences, I bought this quince marmalade from Portugal. Can anyone help me to understand how close or...
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    I don't like the term "blender".

    I really don't like the term, "blender". Every material has it's strength level, and it's place.
    You can't use a pyrazine at ten percent of a fragrance, but you can with Iso E Super.
    To me, that...
  18. Thread: Suede thoughts

    by pkiler
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    Re: Suede thoughts

    Where did you get this?
  19. Replies
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    Re: Study plan suggestions

    Well, at only $23.00, it's certainly affordable and fine to buy a copy to leaf through and keep to learn through...
    ...
  20. Re: Just saying hello again after too long absence!

    Welcome!
    Do you have a mailing address?
  21. Thread: Vetiver Advice

    by pkiler
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    Re: Vetiver Advice

    Natural vetiver extractions vary widely in odor profiles. I have at least 15 Vetivers, each smells differently.
    Indonesian is often quite smoky. Haitian can be quite a bit of "green". India, Sri...
  22. Re: "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    from a Scientist's LinkedIn Profile resume: "Engineered key pathway enzyme to meet strain composition metrics for our first commercial product with ACS, ACS’s Ambrettolide HC Supreme"
  23. Re: "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    Surely, evaluating a long lived musk is difficult from smelling the bottle for past 30 minutes... LOL!
    But from what I readily smell from opening and smelling the bottle, seems like it has a vegetal...
  24. "The world's first biotech musk - Ambrettolide-HC-Supreme"

    A supplier sent me a sample that arrived today,
    Has anyone else experienced this new musk yet?
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    Re: Art of Scent 1889-2012

    Answered privately.
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    Following on this Mango base discussion, Perfumer Supply House has placed the mango base back on the website. YAY!
    Also newly placed on PSH is my Vanilla Absolute replacer base, and my Fixative...
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    Re: Art of Scent 1889-2012

    Glean what is possible from Burr, then move on...
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    Strawberry Furanone is extremely sweet. if used in this context, very small and careful dosing would be necessary.
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    oooh, eeek... any external modifications requires approval from the Nazified Homeowners Association, and a $150 fee. And signature from six neighbors, one of which is a racist delusional obsessed...
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    Re: tincturing lavender

    Is that sweetness the Coumarin?
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    Yes, Nesting seems the best. It's just that I have a LOT of them, and I can't afford the space for each bottle to have a double bottled placement, so I am looking for grosser storage capability.
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    Re: Filtering Perfume Concentrate

    Yes, Coffee Filters do work. they will get out the bigger particles.
    You can also filter twice or more, through coffee filters, which I also do.
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    Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    Super smelly materials storage... ?
    I can't keep my mercaptans, thiols, sulfurs, etc, in my lab anymore, without serious odor control. I bought some plastic containers with a silicone seal, but the...
  34. Thread: Pine Note

    by pkiler
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    Re: Pine Note

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1298341.html
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1006792.html
    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1020911.html
  35. Thread: Pine Note

    by pkiler
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    Re: Pine Note

    Will, David Ruskin doesn't reply here anymore.
    If I may, i'll respond some thoughts.

    "Pine" is often not so about the wood, but about the freshness of the needles, based on limonene.
    "Pine EO"...
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    Since it seems you wish to add freshness, I would look at Triplal, Stemone, a little bit of cassis base, or trace of buchu eo.
    And for the Vetiver, you could add freshness of methyl pamplemiousse,...
  37. What do we know about COMPOSITION 37987-01 SYNAROME ?

    I see on the Ventos site Data sheet that it is at least 12 years old, from 2007.

    CP.com says it uses captive Synarome molecules, describes as a bright Plumeria and Lilac base.
    ...
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    Re: help with essential oil...

    According to my Japanese Fragrance Association book with a cold pressed rind GC for your 'hyuganatsu', (Citrus tamurana),
    the major constituents are:

    Limonene 81-82.5%
    gamma terpinene 8-9%...
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    Re: Increase perfume diffusion

    Nearly all...

    8435151066, what is that number?
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    Re: Increase perfume diffusion

    Nearly all...
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    Re: Visiting Jakarta, Indonesia

    All of the supplier producer companies have offices in Jak. Like Haldin, Indesso, and many others. If you have a favorite two, you could set up appointments. I would not guess you could do more...
  42. Thread: Advice on blend

    by pkiler
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    Re: Advice on blend

    Vanilla tincture will be a lot weaker than the CO2. Either way, don't add very much, or you will overpower the rest.
    Rose Otto is fine... The two are diffeent odor profiles, and enfleurage is even...
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    Re: help with essential oil...

    Ethyl Alcohol is the right stuff, and 99.5% sounds like a really pure, rather even scientific grade, of whatever alcohol it is. Don't use Methyl Alcohol though. Methyl Alcohol can poison you. ...
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    Re: Oud and Sandalwood Accord

    You can add the wild side of oud with a civet material.
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    When I think "jammy", both Davana and fruit sec come to mind.
  46. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    I wish I could remember what he said, to accurately quote him, on why he left...
    But in general, I remember that he said to himself, that when he didn't have fun or enjoyment from contributing, then...
  47. Thread: Aventus musks

    by pkiler
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    Re: Aventus musks

    Someone else will need to give their opinion. I don't find the need to dilute most materials.
  48. Thread: Aventus musks

    by pkiler
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    Re: Aventus musks

    1 gram material, plus 9 grams 190 proof ethyl alcohol.
    weigh your materials.
  49. Replies
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    Re: citronellyl ethoxalate

    Giftmischer did you find a supplier?
  50. Re: Dilution Weight by weight or weight by volume ?

    Hi Nicholas,
    I answered this in your email to me just now... I will also answer the same text here, for other people to read, later, and learn from:

    I would use only 95 alcohol...


    I think a...
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    Re: Question about dilutions

    Yes, if you choose to, you can certainly dilute into alcohol, without any issue.
    I have not seen a Frankincense oleoresin before and think it might be mislabelled and actually be resinoid instead....
  52. Thread: Amaryllis note?

    by pkiler
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    Re: Amaryllis note?

    Have you read past threads?
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/418312-Amaryllis-Headspace-or-chemical-makeup
  53. Re: What aroma chemicals should be refrigerated in the summer?

    I guess that's Centigrade?
    Maybe 27C or 80F is hot for you, here, it's a really nice cool summer day. I'd LOVE it to only be as high as 27C/80F all summer long.
    There was one day last summer that...
  54. Re: What aroma chemicals should be refrigerated in the summer?

    How hot does your workspace get?
  55. Re: Anyone have plans for a perfumer's desktop organ?

    My First "organ" was CD boxes turned on their sides and stacked up.
    I finally got tired of knocking over five bottles to get one in the back though, and made my own taller shelves later.
    103701
  56. Re: Anyone have plans for a perfumer's desktop organ?

    Have you decided what you want to work with? How much each shelf might contain? (depth), and how many bottles you want? and are you working naturals only, or synth and natural? How big do you...
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    Re: Jean Carles method, replacing materials

    Indolene is available
    Musk Ambrette is available, but it's replacement is Ambrettex XNM.

    The rest are a mix of bases and seems like a few single molecules.
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    Re: The Kitchen Sink

    Once you look up each material, you can see the inherent strength of each material in the organoleptic section.

    See this for Hexyl Acetate:


    Organoleptic Properties:


    Odor Type: fruity
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    Re: "Cooling Down" A Fragrance

    there's usually more than one solution... ;-)
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    Re: "Cooling Down" A Fragrance

    Ethyl benzoate, Terrasol, Humus ether, and cis-3-hexenyl salicylate.
  61. Re: Winners announced for 6th Annual Art & Olfaction Awards

    Thanks to everyone who commented, and Congratulations to all of the other Winners and Finalists! ;-)
  62. Thread: Apple Note

    by pkiler
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    Re: Apple Note

    Learn how to do your own research on TGSC. This is the link to search through the demonstration formula archive, I am sure you will find some Apple formulas there:...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Steps to making my first fragrance

    You need to learn your material's attributes, by researching each on the TGSC database, which can be searched via www.perfumersearch.com

    Not every material is soluble in IPM, some are only soluble...
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    Re: Top notes from Ellena

    The reason this has a big citrus note is indeed largely due to the high dosage of Magnolan in it, at almost 25%.
    Also has lemon oil at 1%,
    and a smattering of other citrus oils and single citric...
  65. Thread: Violet flower

    by pkiler
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    Re: Violet flower

    Kacper, I don't think that I'm a violet flower expert. But I really actually don't think that Para Cresol is the most important molecule for violet flower. In fact, I really don't think it has much...
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    Re: BBC bit on Perfumers

    I would bet so, too.
  67. Thread: Clay - How?

    by pkiler
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    Re: Clay - How?

    Yes, I did, just didn't look for it just then... I used the xylenol in my peat smoke accord I've made this week... :-)
  68. Thread: Clay - How?

    by pkiler
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    Re: Clay - How?

    Agree with the earthy pyrazine, (didn't smell the xylenol, but it certainly could work...) I'd also like to suggest some other ideas:
    Isolongifolene
    Cedramber
    Rootanol
    Humus Ether...
  69. Thread: Cedramber

    by pkiler
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    Re: Cedramber

    Powerful in what way?
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    Re: BBC bit on Perfumers

    Ah, Thanks Healer, I thought it was pretty likely... especially after what he says about his family...

    Make me curious though, about his family signature scent...

    Though, I doubt that that...
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    BBC bit on Perfumers

    I wonder if he is related to Henri Robert?

    http://www.bbc.com/capital/gallery/20190529-the-remarkable-scent-memories-of-perfumers
  72. Replies
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    Oh, a Quince base?
    To this point, Quince is an unknown for me, have not smelled it.
    I did employ quince in a perfume for Journey Perfumes, but that was based on research by GC, instead of by...
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    Re: Peach Sandalwood Base

    Your question sounds more like a new thread, than a part of this thread's conversation.
  74. Replies
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    I sent another kilo of Mango to PSH, it is in stock, but she said she has been running herself ragged for one customer, and hasn't been able to update the website.
    Just write to Christine, and...
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    I don't have anything at CreatingPerfume, only at Perfumer Supply House.
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    Ya know, my newest winner Maderas de Oriente Oscuro came from a request too.
    Honestly, living in the near desert here, I do in fact forget to make things for hot humid places.

    I've been working...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    I've been collecting Mango formulas and GC information for years.

    I looked at them to find patterns, learning from these both flavor and fragrance and GC formulas.

    There are some fruity peachy...
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    Re: Shout Out to Paul

    https://i.ytimg.com/vi/LYlMc9gs7wo/maxresdefault.jpg
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    Re: Phenylacetic Acid

    You could try subbing in a honey extraction, or beeswax absolute.
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    Re: Perfumers alcohol

    For the most part, Ethanol and perfumers alcohol, is grain alcohol.
    (Organic) Grape ethanol, smells sweet, and like grapes, a bit.
    If you are picking up grain odor from grain alcohol, I'm not sure...
  81. Thread: Legaliies

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    Re: Legaliies

    Drinking alcohol has all possible taxes paid, so there is no legal problem using in perfumes, it is just a lot more expensive.
  82. Re: Creating a leather fragrance to use on...leather

    The Non-IFRA version of the Leather base sold at PSH is used to give the leather odor to both fake, and cheaper leather products and garments.

    I come from three generations of Leather people, plus...
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    Re: Perfumers alcohol

    I think that the use of Bioflame has previously been debunked.
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    Re: Online Course by Melanie Jane

    Sorry, never heard of her.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Perfumers alcohol

    Ourmess is completely correct above! ^
  86. Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Yes, just tiny amounts necessary...
    Even Christine though, may only get the same deals as what I mentioned. I have a Vigon sample that I've been using out of... But Really, I would not shy away...
  87. Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    I can see seven suppliers that I can buy from in the USA, but as you say, they do not supply in small amounts.
    The closest to a small amount, is Sigma Aldrich, at 100g. For $500.
    I would have to...
  88. Re: Creating a leather fragrance to use on...leather

    Long ago, when kings and queens ruled, Perfumers would soak their leather gloves in fragrance materials, for the rulers to have, scented gloves. Boots are likely not too much different.

    I do...
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    Re: Organ and Bottles

    I used CD boxes turned on their side for my first Organ. Even though I ran out of space quickly, and had to adapt for larger needs.
    103052

    You can buy some bottles here:...
  90. Thread: Papyrus

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    722

    Re: Papyrus

    Yes, I have and have used a couple of varieties of Cypriol, Cyperus Scariosus, and Cyperus Rotunda.
    Doesn't seem like the Rotunda is easy to obtain from White Lotus, now they carry the Scariosus....
  91. Thread: Papyrus

    by pkiler
    Replies
    4
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    722

    Re: Papyrus

    https://www.edenbotanicals.com/nagarmotha-cyperus.html
  92. Thread: Ambroxan %

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    Re: Ambroxan %

    Sellers sell in ml, because that is how bottles are made, for liquid measurement, not by weight.
    Do not assume, however, that dilutions are by volume.
    Unless they are very ignorant, they should not...
  93. Thread: Apricot note

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    3,011

    Re: Apricot note

    Unfortunately, I don't know what Applejack is...
    But, I think that Oakwood is not quite the right idea.

    This is what is in my own Apricot brandy accord:


    Isoamyl Isobutyrate


    Rum Ether
  94. Replies
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    Re: DIY beard oil - fragrance request

    Acqua di Gio is not just one or two things...

    Best thing I can suggest, is to buy some fragrance oil marked ADG, and hope that you like it.
  95. Thread: Ambroxan %

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    1,277

    Re: Ambroxan %

    So, if you measure out 1ml of dry crystals, and then add 9ml of alcohol, this won't get you a 10% dilution, because you are mixing wet and dry measurements.

    BUT, if you weigh out 1 gram of dry...
  96. Re: Vetyrisia Firmenich - Any possible suggestions to create an accord similar to this?

    I don't have a sample, but I can buy it for you, directly from Firmenich, if you want a kg. Christine at PSH can also buy it for you.
  97. Replies
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    Re: How to soften a Black Currant accord?

    Besides the obvious, of using less, you can change out a portion of the black currant with the cassis bases, or with Cassione base. The issue here is to lose some of the sharp sulfur molecules, so...
  98. Thread: Ambroxan %

    by pkiler
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    Re: Ambroxan %

    NO. It won't.
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    Re: Alcohol-oil-water mixing

    Try to be more specific on you question.
    Specify all materials, what type, what %, that you propose, and what is your application.
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    Re: L'eau d'issey men type fragrance diy

    This formula that you reference, is NOT INTENDED to be an exact copy of the original scent.
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