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  1. Re: SDA OR undenatured alcohol for selling perfumes

    You need a permit from the feds to buy more than 5 gallons per year of an SDA. Presumably this is because the denaturants in an SDA could be easily removed to make a drinkable alcohol and the feds...
  2. Re: Chromatograph services vs.. Buying own Chromatograph

    Actually you need not just a Gas Chromatograph (GC) but a Gas Chromatograph coupled to a Mass Spectrometer (GC-MS). The Gas Chromatograph separates the components and the Mass Spectrometer provides...
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    Re: Cheapest Essential Oils

    Note that Liberty Natural has a $50 minimum order while Eden Botanicals does not have a minimum order.
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    838

    Re: Missisipi Distiller?

    They don't get it correct.

    "Simply steep fragrant plant leaves (such as lavender, peppermint, or thyme) in a pot of water, pour the strained liquid into the cucurbit, and place the oil lamp under...
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    838

    Re: Missisipi Distiller?

    Hmm, they don't seem to understand the concept of producing essential oils by steam distillation. To do so requires that you pass steam through the plant material, not just boil water that plant...
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    Re: Supplies - Sources

    The company is run by a very nice fellow who sometimes posts here. What is his name, it escapes me at the moment.
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    Sticky: Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    The Feds don't even care at all if you use tax paid beverage alcohol to manufacture fragrances for sale.

    http://www.community.basenotes.net/showpost.php?p=1595036&postcount=18
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    Re: Need help finding a scale

    This is not what JonB and me are talking about. The Jennings JS-50X has some sort of noise/drift reduction algorithm such that if you _very_ slowly add a large amount of material it will not register...
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    Re: Need help finding a scale

    It is good to hear that someone else has noticed this. My inexpensive Jennings JS_50X does this, adding drops works but if I slowly add a powder the weight change will not register. Just as if, as...
  10. Thread: musks

    by dcampen
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    Re: musks

    I like (the unsaturated macrocyclic lactone musk) Habanolide for this. Perfumer's Apprentice carries Habanolide.
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    Washington state procedures.

    Here is the information sheet if you want to buy pure tax-paid alcohol in Washington state for fragrance compounding.
    http://liq.wa.gov/publications/IndAlcoholinfosheet.pdf
    Industrial alcohol is...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    Here is Federal law:
    http://ecfr.gpoaccess.gov/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=ecfr;sid=4079a46612f3acc21a9e79d0f5ecb886;rgn=div7;view=text;node=27%3A1.0.1.1.1.4.20;idno=27;cc=ecfr

    CFR Title 27 Chapter 1
    ...
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    California alcohol rules.

    California Business and Professions Code, section titled "Alcoholic Beverages Control Act"
    http://law.justia.com/california/codes/bpc/23100-23113.html
    23112. Nothing in this division prevents or...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    Well, the artisanal perfumers that I know personally use either an SDA or Tax-paid alcohol. I suppose some might use one of the "Perfumer's" alcohols that are sold to hobbyists but I think it is less...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    For United States Postal it is allowed but special packaging and labeling is required. It is shipped as an "ORM-D" product. Many fragrance vendors ignore this. Fedex and UPS would have their own...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    Yes you can sell fragrances made with it. You have already paid the Federal alcohol tax when you bought the alcohol. You do not need any permits or licenses other than what you would need for selling...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    In this context, people who use "Perfumer's alcohol" are not real perfumers. Or to put it another way, anyone working at Firmenich, Givaudan etc. formulating fragrances will not be using "Perfumer's...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    The so called "Perfumer's alcohols" are concocted and sold especially to hobbyists. They will have large amounts of some combination of isopropyl alcohol and various high boiling esters. They are...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    Everclear is just as odorless as any "perfumer's alcohol", even more so. I am smelling 190 proof Everclear now and it has only the faintest smell.

    Do you understand that real perfumers don't use...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    OK, so we agree here.



    The sales tax on fragrances is the same no matter what type of alcohol is used in it. You are selling a fragrance product not an alcoholic beverage.

    I will look up...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    Yes, it is very convenient in Washington and California. In Washington it is easy to get the permit for 5 gallons per year of 190 proof alcohol and then you can buy it at a State liquor store. In...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    That is absolutely untrue. Federal law specifically allows for (Federal) tax-paid beverage alcohol to be used in the manufacture of fragrances. Once the alcohol has been incorporated into a fragrance...
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    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    190 proof food grade alcohol is the best. Do you live in Washington state?
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    10,145

    Re: Everclear: Why and why not?

    No, it is not.
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    I am not aware of any IFRA restriction on the use of heliotopin (piperonal). I just searched the IFRA database by names and CAS # and could find no mention of heliotropin.
  26. Re: Food grade Alcohol/Ethanol/UNdenaturated Ethanol etc. where to buy ?

    This is not a problem, Federal law supercedes state laws and specifically exempts fragrances made with beverage grade alcohol from being regulated by state alcoholic beverage laws.
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    Re: Natural Colorants

    Dyes that are light stable enough to use in fragrance are hard to find. There are some greens.
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    Re: Extraction of oakmoss and others

    Benzene is significantly carcinogenic and dangerous. I would strongly recommend against working with benzene. In fact benzene is now considered to be so toxic that I doubt anyone still uses it for...
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    Re: Pink atomizers 3ml funk

    I get 2.5 ml and 5 ml polypropylene atomizers from here:
    http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/Pocket-Spray-Misters-pr-16272.html
    these do not have any odor problems.
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    Re: Confused about essential oils

    Cassia is a type of Cinnamon tree, the bark essential oil from either should smell similar. I would guess that the Cassia oil at Wholefoods Market is bark oil. Cinnamon and Cassia bark essential oils...
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    Re: Iso E Super... the truth?

    Iso E Super is a brand name of International Flavor and Fragrances. Here is their data sheet:
    http://www.iff.com/Ingredients.nsf/0/E69A1213546C4F8B80256993003995C6

    You can purchase small amounts...
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    Re: new member need help

    Good quality, pure 95% ethanol should have only a very faint smell.
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    Re: Graduated Cylinder/Beeker

    http://www.pelletlab.com/graduated_cylinders
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    Re: Absolutes versus Concretes?

    Using traditional terminology, absolutes are prepared from concretes.

    Flowers will be extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent such as pentane and the pentane evaporated to produce the concrete. A...
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    Re: gamma-Decalactone

    You can purchase small quantities of gamma-decalactone here:
    http://store.perfumersapprentice.com/aromachemicals.html
    http://store.perfumersapprentice.com/aromachem1.html

    Perfumer's Apprentice...
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    Re: Finding Tonka Bean

    White Lotus Aromatics has it, they do though have a $100 minimum order.
    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/prices/abs.html

    Liberty Natural also has it, their minimum order is $50....
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    Re: Millisime Imperial Top Note

    For the U.S. market, the box does not need to list individual ingredients. For the U.S., the box could just say "Ingredients: Fragrance, Alcohol, Water".

    For the E.U. market it is required to list...
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    Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    How did P&G end up with Patou? Yes, very sad, it seems like this house will be gutted under P&G ownership. P&G is all about mass marketing, they will have no clue or interest how to handle something...
  39. Re: Do perfumers have their 'own' patented synthetic aromachemicals?

    Thanks, I hadn't noticed this addition to the Givaudan catalog. I see that it is an analog of Muscenone (Firmenich) different only in having one less carbon in the ring. I consider Muscenone to be...
  40. Re: Do perfumers have their 'own' patented synthetic aromachemicals?

    Another current captive is Paradisone from Firmenich. It is an optically pure, pure cis form of Hedione.

    http://www.mimifroufrou.com/scentedsalamander/2007/11/scented_quote_of_the_day_from_42.html
  41. Re: New York Maple Syrup Smell Mystery SOLVED! (it's fenugreek!!)

    http://www.perfumerflavorist.com/networking/news/company/40091902.html?utm_source=newsletter-html&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=PF+E-Newsletter+02-25-2009
  42. Re: Food grade Alcohol/Ethanol/UNdenaturated Ethanol etc. where to buy ?

    If you can get 190 proof Everclear that is probably the least expensive for small users since you can get this in small bottles. Dealers in industrial alcohol often sell in packages of not less than...
  43. Re: New York Maple Syrup Smell Mystery SOLVED! (it's fenugreek!!)

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sotolon
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    Re: metal boxes for solids

    http://www.specialtybottle.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=55

    http://www.sks-bottle.com/340c/SearchIndexMetal.html
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    Re: How to make hard resin into oil?

    From Frankincense gum you can produce 2 products - the essential oil and the resinoid. The essential oil is produced by steam distillation of the gum and the resinoid is produced by hydrocarbon...
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    Re: Aromachemicals from Apprentice

    I find with many aromachemicals that while I can barely detect them when sniffing the bottle they will be extremely potent when used in a formulation. I attribute this to the nose being easily...
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    Re: Who makes the best EO?

    I particularly like the "Lavender - High Elevation" that I have gotten from Eden Botanicals.
    http://www.edenbotanicals.com/essentials5.html#lavender
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    Re: YSL M7 reformulated?!!!!

    That would be my guess - that this stuff is fake.
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    Re: Question about vibratonal frequency of odors

    Not correct.
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    Re: Question about vibratonal frequency of odors

    The paper that was retracted had nothing to do with the Theory of Odorant receptors for which the Nobel prize was awarded. From the NY Times article you referenced:

    "Randall Reed, a professor of...
  51. Re: New Molecule May Challenge Vibration Theory of Olfaction

    http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200812/twilight-vampires
  52. Replies
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    702

    Re: Unique containers for solids

    Here are some containers from Eden Botanical.
    http://www.edenbotanicals.com/containers.html

    Here are wide mouth glass bottles with ground glass stopper.
    http://www.pelletlab.com/reagent_bottles
  53. Replies
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    Re: Coriolan Conspiracy

    Biolandes has a new speciality oakmoss absolute that has been processed to greatly reduce the levels of sensitizing materials. I have not had a chance to sample this yet, hopefully the processing...
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    Re: Naturally artificial

    Fragrance pyramids are to be understood as fantasy, simply a poetic description created by someone in a marketing department.
  55. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    Sandalwood oil is safe to apply without dilution. I will often use the fancy, round, wooden toothpicks such as you can buy in a Japanese grocery store as sample applicators for essential oils..
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    Re: Bourbon vs Haiti

    Bourbon is an old name for Reunion Island which is east of Madagascar.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R%C3%A9union

    A long time ago it had a reputation for producing the best vetiver oil.
  57. Poll: Re: Should I give each of my EO a glass dropper or plastic pipette

    The plastic pipettes are made of polyethylene and will withstand exposure to essential oils.

    Drop size will be different with different pipettes/droppers. Even glass droppers of different sizes...
  58. Re: is there an authentic but less pricey substitute for blackcurrant absolute?

    Typically you would use Black Currant Bud Absolute only in very small amounts in a formulation. You can get 1/8 ounce from Eden Botanical for $30. It is about 1/2 that price from Liberty Natural but...
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    The MIT directory lists him as a "Visiting Scientist".
    http://web.mit.edu/bin/cgicso?query=Turin
  60. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    Yes, while I haven't sampled it I expect that this Eden Botanicals material is probably about the best one could hope to find. You can get genuine Indian Sandalwood oil from other reputable essential...
  61. Replies
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    7,577

    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    OK, since you are going to start being nasty then I am finished with this discussion.
  62. Replies
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    Re: looking for a carrier alcohol...

    Yes, if you can't get 190 proof Everclear then the Artisan's Alcohol is an alternative. One issue with the Artisan's Alcohol is that it does contain an unstated amount of the hexylene glycol, I would...
  63. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    First you would have to define what you mean by same shape. Do propanol, propanal, propanethiol and propylamine have the same shape? But this is not necessary, it has been demonstrated that chemicals...
  64. Replies
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    Re: looking for a carrier alcohol...

    I use 190 proof Everclear. Its availability in the U.S. depends on the state in which you live. I think it is not available in New York but you should be able to get it in New Jersey.
  65. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    Because they have different binding strengths to the various odor receptors.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olfactory_receptor
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ligand_(biochemistry)
  66. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    The currently accepted theory of odor perception, for which Axel and Buck received a Nobel prize, is _not_ a "shape theory".

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man
  67. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    Again and again, there is no accepted "shape theory", it could be whatever you feel you need to set up a suitable straw man.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man
  68. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    The currently accepted theory, for which Axel and Buck received the Nobel prize, is not a shape theory. "Shape theory" exists only as a straw man.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Straw_man
  69. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    Again, there is no such thing as a "shape" theory of odor perception. This Wikipedia page has a good discussion of the accepted olfaction receptor theory of Axel & Buck:...
  70. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    Not that I remember.

    The one thing the Burr book was good at was manufacturing artificial controversy in order to sell copies of the book. The scientific exposition was terrible. I thought the...
  71. Replies
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    Re: New study contradicts Luca Turin's theory?

    The work discussed does not so much contradict Turin's theory as it does ignore it. It is widely accepted that Turin's theory is not correct. The 2004 Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine was...
  72. Re: Does agarwood and gaiac wood smell different?

    Guaiacwood and Agarwood are completely unrelated and different in smell. Guaiacwood oil is a mild smelling material. Here is Bo Jensen's description:
    ...
  73. Re: Looking for explanation on disappearance of Liberty Natural website

    I had noticed a couple of days ago that I couldn't access their web site. I would guess that they were maintaining their own web server and that the web server has gone down while everyone is on...
  74. Re: Need help with this issue! 1st Time order EO from internet

    I don't understand your complaint. What was the estimated shipping cost given when you checked out? Wasn't the actual shipping charge about equal to the estimate? If you didn't like the estimated...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Toxic ingredients - Coumarin

    The amount of coumarin that can be absorbed from wearing fragrances is not toxic to humans.

    Did you know that oxygen is also a toxin?
  76. Replies
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    Re: "Rectified" oils

    Yes, the "Rectified" Lemon Verbena and Melissa EOs from Liberty Natural would seem to be adulterated. You can see this on the C of A sheet where it says "Quality:MODIFIED". So seemingly yet another...
  77. Replies
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    Re: "Rectified" oils

    Hmm, I answered that question and then you complained that that wasn't your question. Oh well.
  78. Replies
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    Re: "Rectified" oils

    The term "rectified" is used but rarely. As applied to essential oils etc. it has no precise meaning and each usage can mean different things. In general "rectified" means that an additional...
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    Re: Adding distilled water

    OK, you're the expert.
  80. Replies
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    Re: Adding distilled water

    The simple answer is that you added too much water. Don't add so much.

    How much water did you add?
  81. Replies
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    Re: What chemical is this?

    I just sampled this from a wipe-on sample from a magazine. After a few minutes of drydown, what seems the prominent note to me is a bitter galbanum note from one of the galbanum synthetics.
  82. Replies
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    Re: How much can I use

    Yes, this means as a percentage of the fragrance materials not including alcohol or fixed oils.

    In the case of the Myrhh Abs. this percentage is just a very general suggestion about what amounts...
  83. Thread: Patchouli

    by dcampen
    Replies
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    739

    Re: Patchouli

    If you like cinnamon too then I would suggest Witness by Jacques Bogart as a masculine cinnamon-musk-patchouli.
  84. Replies
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    5,615

    Re: orange blossom, special

    I have never heard of Choysia ternata. The Orange Blossom Absolute that is used in perfumery comes from the same flowers that produce Neroli. Neroli is produced by steam distillation of the flowers...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Eau de Cologne DIY

    As you notes, rubbing alcohol stinks. Beverage grade alcohol is best, it needs to be at least 150 proof and preferrably 190 proof. Do you live in a state where you can buy 190 proof Everclear in a...
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    Re: Fiji: Frags & Mosquitos

    I use Witness by Jacques Bogart, it is very effective.
  87. Replies
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    Re: An amber accord

    That is an awfull lot of Cetalox and ambrox that you are using. Cetalox is a tradename of Firmenich, what is the ambrox you are using? Do you have a manufacturer name, are you refering to Ambrox DL...
  88. Replies
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    Re: HydroFluoroCarbon HFC-134a

    The OP is asking about using pure HFC-134a as a solvent for extracting agarwood oil. The lubricants that are used in an HFC-134a based refrigerant have nothing to do with the OP's question.
  89. Replies
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    Re: Nutmeg/clove scents

    Jacques Bogart - One Man Show.
    http://www.basenotes.net/ID26121227.html
  90. Re: Which perfume houses use a high percentage of naturals?

    You think so? So tell me, what is the legal definition of "high percentage"? Is 1% a high precentage, how about 20%? What is the legal definition of "natural ingredient"? Does the natural grain...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy fixatives?

    Hedione is available here:
    http://store.perfumersapprentice.com/arhz.html
  92. Thread: Civet vs. Musk

    by dcampen
    Replies
    17
    Views
    2,585

    Re: Civet vs. Musk

    There is virtually no use of deer musk in fragrances. So to ask about civet vs. musk you must be asking about civet (real or a simulant) vs pure musk chemicals.

    There is really no similarity....
  93. Thread: Synthetic oud

    by dcampen
    Replies
    43
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    6,271

    Re: Synthetic oud

    From Firmenich there is "Oud Synthetic 10760 E". Givaudan has "Black Agar Givco 215".
    ...
  94. Thread: Synthetic oud

    by dcampen
    Replies
    43
    Views
    6,271

    Re: Synthetic oud

    Both Firmenich and Givaudan sell Oud bases (blended oud simulants). Each company has their own formulation composed of a number of aromatic materials. An oud base from another vendor would again be...
  95. Re: What notes to use to create the scents of ...

    Nicotine free tobacco absolute is available from Liberty Natural:
    http://libertynatural.com/bulk/223.htm
    Liberty natural does have a $50 minimum order.
  96. Replies
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    Re: The Famous Creed Ambergris Base

    The import and sale of ambergris into the U.S. is _not_ prohibited. In the U.S. ambergris is not considered a product of the protected sperm whale since the only ambergris of value is material that...
  97. Re: Perfumer's apprentice Beginner's Aromachemical Kit

    A large manufacturer will use Specially Denatured Alcohol (SDA) to avoid paying the Federal tax of $27/gallon that is levied on undenatured alcohol.

    To manufacture using SDA does require a Federal...
  98. Re: Perfumer's apprentice Beginner's Aromachemical Kit

    This is not true. In the U.S. it is completely legal to use Everclear or other non-denatured alcohol to manufacture perfumes for sale. I know that a certain vendor of so called "perfumer's alcohol"...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Fixatives and the Fleeting Scent

    Fixatives are not expensive. Dipropylene glycol and diethyl phthalate are good fixatives so is Hedione. The thing is that if you use enough fixative to significantly prolong a top note then you also...
  100. Re: Can one buy teak wood or does it have to be made?

    I only know of teakwood as a compounded base not any natural product or pure material. Firmenich sells a teak base, you can buy small amounts from:
    http://store.perfumersapprentice.com/bebaco.html...
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