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  1. Re: Tincturing strength questions. Enlightenment needed please.

    I could be terribly wrong in this regard, but I get the impression that industry standards, and for that matter, standards of any sort, as they relate to tinctures and such, really only have...
  2. Thread: PSH's Zeppin

    by islearom
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    Re: PSH's Zeppin

    Well, I'll have to admit, I'm thoroughly confused now. What does Jimmy Page have to do with perfumery?
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    Re: Interaction with White Lotus Aromatics

    Glad to hear all is well now. I was also confused to hear of a problem, as it has always been a pleasure to conduct business with Chris and Suzanne.
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    I have looked at the listing for that, as well as the Data sheet for the same (or, promotional material, whatever it is called...has details on how the Ventos product is prepared from the resinoid,...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    rynegne, would you be able to provide the source of the Olibanum Resinoid raw frankincense? I have hesitated on ordering the resinoid of B.serrata from Nemat only as I suspect (though am not certain)...
  6. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I tried signing up for access to full texts at the ResearchGate site in the past, but was refused as they require members to have had articles that have been published (in scientific journals and...
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    Re: Sandalwood Oil

    Doesn't sound like the real thing. The water won't help.
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Yes, I understood that from your earlier post, I was under the mistaken impression that you were thinking of adding the Eden, with your thinking it to be somehow different than the one you mentioned,...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    I get the impression with oud/agarwood in general that only a trace amount could be used in a blend without sending things in
    a direction that would be outside the realm of social acceptability in...
  10. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    Is alpha-ionone and alpha-irone the same thing, with different spellings/names, or different molecules?
  11. Re: About to start my first attempt. Looking for a masculine cardamom-driver scent. Suggestions?

    Your investment in your college degree will more probably provide a better financial pay back in a shorter length of time.
  12. Thread: Clary Sage

    by islearom
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    Re: Clary Sage

    "Fatty" is probably more accurate a term to use to describe that aspect, but in the world of botanicals, "fatty" tends to imply "animal".
  13. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Thanks SoBearded...sounds like it is something I should have in the "library".
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    P.S. My mention of the Liberty product was in reference to the least expensive of their three Agarwood offerings. I have no experience with either of their two other Agarwood products.
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Well, while Eden does not refer to their Agarwood as being Bouya, I think that it might actually fall into that category. You might be finding that word as a descriptor of the material in a site that...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Eden's Agar SCO2, over time, develops into what I recall the Japanese Aloeswood incenses that I used to burn to smell like. To an extent that it amazes me that such an odor of actual burning incense...
  17. Thread: Clary Sage

    by islearom
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    Re: Clary Sage

    Well, if you already have the absolute of Clary Sage, then I don't believe you will find the animal notes of which I made reference, as I was referring to the fact (I thought it to be one) that the...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    The Benzoin did work out fine, and does increase longevity of the two fragrances I did tests on. I'll still give the Myrrh and Opoponax a try though for the sake of comparison and education.

    And...
  19. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    Nizan, I have a fairly decent selection of naturals along the lines of the things that I personally prefer, and as well, find easier to use to produce the sort of things I like, yet, I have never...
  20. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil

    DrSmellThis, as far as the ionones go, I only have experience with the irones of Orris...don't even know if that is technically an "ionone", but as you mention the latter, could you please describe...
  21. Thread: Clary Sage

    by islearom
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    Re: Clary Sage

    ProfessorBats, try the absolute of Clary and I think you will in fact find it to have the animal type of notes that are buried rather deep down in the EO.
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    Re: Vegan conundrum....

    Without getting into the "cruelty" side of the discussion, I just want to mention that I find it interesting that some people think it utterly odd of me to decline the eating of the flesh of the...
  23. Re: About to start my first attempt. Looking for a masculine cardamom-driver scent. Suggestions?

    Amazed you could put that together Paul, considering all the requirements placed in the inquiry. So I'll add one question. Is the Cardamom
    extract you provide the link to very different from the EO,...
  24. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I have been reading the Arctander book and find mention now and then of reactions with fatty constituents, such as myrcene, myrcenol and related compounds (hoping I spelled them correctly, or close),...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Thanks much DrSmellThis for the tip. Much appreciated. I'll give the Benzoin a go first, and then try the alternatives you mention if I find the Benzoin to change things too much.
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Unless things take a turn for the worse with maturation, I think I am actually pleased, for a pleasant change of pace, with the outcome of my current formulation. I think I took care of the "dirty"...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Funny that you mention your current beneficial use of Himalayan Cedarwood in a blend. Only because yesterday I conducted a second test of a blend I am working on (forest type of thing), and first...
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Maybe Choya Loban, the destructive distillation of Indian Frankincense (B. serrata) using Himalayan Cedarwood as a base.

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/product/choya-loban
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    Re: Olibanum Resinoid

    Scents of the Earth carries a nice line of products, but as far as Frankincense/Olibanum goes, to the best of my knowledge, they do not carry the resinoid...they do offer the raw botanical resins...
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    Re: Ambrette seed products, price variation

    James, I have found the people at WLA to be nothing other than a total pleasure to work with. Chris always gets back to me immediately, if not sooner, with answers to any questions that I have about...
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    Re: Ambrette seed oil supplier

    The SCO2 of Ambrette seed is much different than the EO, which shouldn't be a surprise, considering that the SCO2 process will have the extract include all sorts of botanical components that the...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    A very nice presentation your photos show. I trust that the bride and groom will much appreciate all of your efforts.
  33. Re: Taking the plunge for a White Lotus order?

    David and Deadidol are both right on about the need for consistency for large volume production, and that neither WLA or Eden would be the vendors to depend on for such a business. In the terms and...
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    Re: Practice Briefs

    While I don't work in this manner at all anymore, I for a period in the distant past used a method that was sort of, kind of, a mix of the two themes presented by Bill and David, though my method at...
  35. Re: Taking the plunge for a White Lotus order?

    Bill covers the marketing side very well. Nothing for me to add there.

    I did forget to mention though Cheechi that you can find that the such and such (ie. absolute, or SCO2, or whatever) sold by...
  36. Re: Taking the plunge for a White Lotus order?

    Dave, I think you are thinking in terms of the larger businesses, as deadidol suggests. They are really the only ones who give away free samples, and then of course, only to businesses (or...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Nizan, I believe that Mumsy is referring to the leaves of the Pandanus plant (I hope she will correct me if I am mistaken)...the reference that you read about alcohol extraction, I assume, was...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Having no personal experience with Amyris, can you describe the benefit of using that over Sandalwood for the woody aspect (aside from cost consideration)? Also, what form, variety, etc. of...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy, is it the massoia oil that is providing the wood note, or do you have other ingredients that are as well adding to the wood aspect? (I'm going under the assumption that the Galbanum and Nutmeg...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Thanks Mumsy...I suppose it wasn't all as "self evident" to me as I originally thought it would be. I much appreciate your taking the time to explain all the details as you have to an extraction...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Thanks Mumsy, I will be giving it a try. You mention having tinctured it for eight days prior to initial separation (though would have let that process go longer if you were not working within a...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy, please pardon me if you have already covered this detail elsewhere in this thread, but can you provide for me the ratio of Coconut Oil to Alcohol that you used? Also, any special...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Well Paul, now I feel a bit silly, as, since writing the above, I pulled out the bottle of Frankincense tincture, which since having been filtered, (about a couple of weeks or so now), has been left...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    You know better than I on this Paul...I only cooled the mixture, did not actually wait long enough to freeze it, thinking (in error apparently) that the cooling would be adequate for separation. I...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Well Mumsy, I picked up some Coconut Oil yesterday, selected by way of going from link to link originating from the one that you provided, and found one under the brand name of Nutiva at the local...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Geez, I never would have guessed that one, mainly as I was until now entirely unaware of such a method for extraction. Thanks again!
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Thanks Mumsy for the details and links. That your friends are preparing the oil without cold pressing, and without heat, has under the impression that it is derived either by SCO2 extraction, or...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy, is your Cocounut tincture something that you created entirely from scratch, or, derived from a commercially available material? I am wondering since a U.S. vendor (Eden) is now offering a...
  49. Re: Cedar on Fragrantica - I just don't get it

    Well, Cedar can mean the Virginia or Texas types...the pencil shavings varieties, or, it can be the Atlas/Himalayan, which are utterly different in scent. "Cedar" is a great term to use for the...
  50. Thread: New Article

    by islearom
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    Re: New Article

    Wish I could go...I understand that there are some personalities that are well covered in the newspapers there.
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    Re: Communicating dark colors

    Would Lavender be purple?

    Oops...I see that David did cover that one far earlier in this thread.

    I was looking through the Purple Haze trying to see the Clear Light at the end of the tunnel,...
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    Re: Meyer Lemon EO Cold Pressed

    A long time ago I worked for an organic fruit and produce distributorship in Southern California where we sold many tons of Meyer Lemons every year. I never had any idea that they were a cross...
  53. Re: Ethyl vanillin/methyl anthranilate Schiff's Base

    Sandalwood Oil from New Caledonia might also be worth trying. It has similarities to the S. album (from Indonesia or Sri Lanka), at a lesser cost.
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Glad to hear that you have the correct variety, considering all the time and effort you have invested in the project.
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy, I'm hoping that you did request the Alpinia galanga version of Galangal, that being the variety that is commonly used in Thai cuisine. The name of Galangal is also applied to Kaempferia...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I recall that when I first started seeing articles about Aromatherapy in P&F that the discussion was mainly focused on the idea of there being a new market to exploit for the sale of fragrance by the...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Manuel, would the formulation based on J.sambac that you are working on be intended as a women's fragrance, or would it be something that males, in the western world, would also be able to wear (in...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Yes ProfessorBats, it seems that what was in the past regarded simply as Herbal Medicine has somehow been turned into Aromatherapy.
  59. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Well put Mumsy. It seems that in our current time, there are way too many people that feel the need to create a religion and philosophy around some activity or another where none at all is required....
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    ProfessorBats, I really was not attempting to dispute anything that was said by DrSmellThis, just mentioning that I can see problems developing in his expressing his views as I see once again the...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Nizan, or are you referring to the idea that the English writers manage to convey their thoughts with so many less words? I wish I had that same talent.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I fear all this comes down to semantics, yet once again. The definition of "natural" varies extensively, depending on who is doing the defining of it so much so that it has become pretty well...
  63. Replies
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Reading your comment about how Tuberose is so different in concentrated vs. diluted form has motivated me to dig out my samples of Tuberose and dilute one of them to see how much an improvement is...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Having read so often about the odor of the Durian and the odor always described as basically, very unpleasant, I find Manuel's comment about the Malay varieties of Durian being "the most fragrant",...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    It does seem like a different thing from what is common as a source of starch in Hawaii by the select grouping of individuals who consume it. I have never seen or heard of it in HI. being used in any...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Nizan, I would guess that it is possible that you are familiar with some variety of Taro that is different than the varieties that are grown and consumed in Hawaii, and they are the only ones that I...
  67. Replies
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy's description of the use of Taro in Thailand sounds similar to its usage in the islands of the state of Hawaii, where it is a popular food staple amongst the ethnic Hawaiian folks born and...
  68. Re: When Your Skin Smells Sandalwood Oil, It Heals Itself

    I don't know who Christopher Brosius is (you know, us illiterate Americans)...but I believe that synesthesia also refers to the criss crossed neural circuity of the sorts that I made reference...
  69. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Sorry to have had that one be so lengthy, as was a prior one of mine. I can sympathize with those who can not endure the thought of drudging through my more excessive literary expression, so I might...
  70. Just would like to mention Chris that I much...

    Just would like to mention Chris that I much enjoy your blog. You provide an awful lot of good useful information.
  71. Re: When Your Skin Smells Sandalwood Oil, It Heals Itself

    Interesting stuff. That some people can "see" sound, while others can hear "colors", I wonder if there are people who see or hear odors? Maybe Poucher was seeing them when he included the color chart...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    In response to your comments Mumsy about the use of naturals, I feel the need to add that I find it rather odd that there is held such a strong negative attitude by many modern perfumers when the...
  73. Replies
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    I think Dave does cover all the major bases at one shot. I know Lemongrass, Galangal, Ginger, Basil, Coriander, and Coconut are probably standard menu ingredients for most any Thai curry dish....
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    BTW Mumsy, at least you had the advantage of knowing what FCO was, and having access to it. I first used Jojoba when I desired to not use DPG, nor Alcohol, at that time I had never even heard of FCO....
  75. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Yes Mumsy, it took me a while to understand that oils as the carrier dampen scent, and as well, keep it closer to the skin. I thought I was imagining things the first time I mixed a blend with Jojoba...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Situations that took place with myself yesterday, in two different social settings, and relating to the effect that an error on my part regarding the amount of a personal blend that I put on in the...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I was recently going through some things that I had blended six years ago, actually mainly for the sake of finding some bottles to empty, clean and reuse. While the majority of my "compositions" in...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    Mumsy, I have checked Archive.org endless times for Poucher's books...seeing the link that you provided takes me to the book by Atkinson...with a book title similar to that of Poucher's series. Are...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    I don't recall the date of production for my Volume 1 copy of the book, but I purchased it in 1986, and it was my introduction to the components of fragrance. After I sent the above post that I...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    The version of Poucher's perfume books commonly available for download, Edition 10, does not include the first of the three volumes (The Raw Materials of Perfumery).

    I have searched all over for...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    Nice IPP that you thought to contact Kew...I had not the slightest thought of it being in the Tea family. Even without the species being determined with certainty, the identity is now much narrowed...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    I can see the similarity in the stamens and anthers in the Top Tropicals pic, but I think the Magnolias tend not to have the large clusters of flowers as shown in Paul's picture. Also, flowers of...
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    I see you are right on Choisya being in the Rutaceae...I was mixing that up with Chorisia (a member of the Bombacaceae), my error. Paul's image does look similar to Choisya...shall be interesting to...
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    Isn't Choisya in the Bombax family?
  85. Replies
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    To add some more Latin Nomenclature related confusion...there is also the genus Pittosporum, which contains a couple hundred species, and of which, some as well go under the name of "Mock Orange".
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    IPP, Philadelphus is the genus, there are many species within the genus. Not to say that I know that the plant is definitely a mock orange. It does look to me though that it is a possibility. Mock...
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    Re: Identity help, Please...

    It might be some variety (ie. some species) of Mock Orange...one of various species of Philadelphus.

    Compare to Philadelphus coronarius:

    29181
  88. Re: Out with it.. what is the worst blend you have ever made?

    Paul, you're referring to the fellow in Tempe, Arizona...the fellow who had an article about him and his nursery in The New York Times?

    I should give the URL, which is:
    ...
  89. Re: Simple way to make a heavily resinous scent?

    I don't know that I understand them properly... but I do get the feeling that DrSmellThis does understand them well enough, and by way of my limited experience, I can appreciate what he has to say in...
  90. Re: Out with it.. what is the worst blend you have ever made?

    I would have to add here that my worst would be variations on the theme of Eau de Turpentine.

    Nizan, Frankincense (Boswellia) probably would do just fine where you are. It is collected in Oman...
  91. Re: Simple way to make a heavily resinous scent?

    DrSmellThis, re-reading your post and your comments about how natural ingredients will ultimately dictate the outcome...I agree and find that if one is willing to accept this fact, that natural...
  92. Re: Can you mix synthetic ingredients with essential/natural oils ?

    If you do some searching through the threads in the DIY forum here, you should find a good amount of information regarding the mixing of naturals with synthetics. You will find actually that the...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Sounds wonderful, like what I have been looking for. Thanks very much.
  94. Replies
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Paul, I was looking at that product listing for the resinoid at Nemat yesterday...information in the front of their site indicates that they do not add any solvents extenders, etc. to any of their...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Thanks very much for your reply and for providing the information that you have. Most helpful to me, especially in terms of my taking for granted that the Absolute, so called, that I have is actually...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Looking at different sites, I find that Nemat offers a resinoid from India...I might give that a try.

    You are lucky to have access for purchasing so easily at a local shop.

    Renegade, on...
  97. Replies
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Thank you for the information Ramute. I read things about New Directions that cause me some concern as regards to ordering from them, but maybe I should just take the chance and see how it goes. I am...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Chris, you touched on a subject that has been on my mind of late, and for which I am still unable to find the precise answer to. But I know that your portable raw materials of perfume encyclopedia...
  99. Re: Vetiveryl & Patchoulyl Acetates - Natural or Synth and who cares?

    Nizan, where is the information that you refer to as available that provides the identification of the impurities in ACs?
  100. Re: Vetiveryl & Patchoulyl Acetates - Natural or Synth and who cares?

    Thanks Paul...I didn't intend to kick up such a storm. Poor composition on my part for the post as it was placed.
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