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  1. What fragrance would German ambient artist Thomas Köner wear?

    I have enjoyed Thomas Köner's music for a while now, and I wonder what fragrance he would wear. It would have to be cold.
  2. Thread: Opoponax

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Opoponax

    I had some of the absolute from Hermitage, and I must say that it's one of my favorite materials. It smells like toffee and toast, and when diluted it turns the solution red. Now I wonder if...
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    Re: Note Sensitivity: Woody Ambers

    My girlfriend is definitely sensitive to woody-amber notes. She describes some of them as smelling "as strong as bleach," although in an odor intensity sense, not odor quality. I accidentally got...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I recently heard someone complaining that copycat fragrances "smell like the real thing, but they don't last as long." This was an ordinary consumer, not a perfumer. This leads me to believe that...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I'm an advocate of studying GC tests for educational purposes. Aspiring musicians study symphonies, so why shouldn't we do the same thing? I can therefore see some justification in trying to...
  6. Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Do they have an address?
  7. Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Well then I guess someone will have to send them some samples.
  8. Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    I have been a reader and fan of Perfumes: The A-Z Guide for a couple of years now, and I have never understood the absence of the CdG incense series. Now obviously, certain perfumes had to be cut...
  9. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    In a way, this reminds me of the modern tendency to use extremely large amounts of Iso E Super in certain perfumes (in its role as a blender). Both are easily dominated by other notes, yet they bring...
  10. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thank you for the link. Interesting reading.
  11. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thanks for the answer. When I have these questions, I usually just study demo formulas and experiment, but ambergris is a bit more mysterious (and expensive), so I wanted to hear some opinions....
  12. Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    I've had some ambergris tincture from Hermitage for a while (2%), but I'm not sure how much to use. Although it must vary from perfume to perfume, what would a typical amount be?
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I think that would have to depend on the particular absolute (whether its consumption is safe). If I'm not mistaken, clove bud absolute (which contains eugenol) can cause liver damage, organic or...
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    Re: fragrance DIY in dreams

    I had elderflower and rose lemonade from England the other day. It was my first floral beverage. I guess those aren't very common over here.

    Thanks for sharing, everyone!
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I don't think anyone here would be comfortable telling you to move forward with the project. For one thing, we aren't even talking about food; while I might have something to say about flavoring your...
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    fragrance DIY in dreams

    Has anyone else had dreams about perfuming? In my dream last night I was smelling cyclocitral out of the bottle and thinking that it was exactly what my blend needed but that it was toxic.
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    Yes, the Tauer fragrance. I haven't tried using rose oxide yet, but I know it's a staple in rose bases. I've been relying on rose absolute. The GC also shows methyl eugenol (from Turkish rose), but...
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    Good point there. Nothing smells more like cleaning agents than Citral and alpha-Terpineol, yet they're both used in fine fragrance all the time. I also read in a textbook (An Introduction to...
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    I've been re-creating a fragrance that contains it (Incense Rose) as an educational exercise. It's my favorite fragrance, but it's also very complex and nearly impossible to copy. You're definitely...
  20. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I was reading on Chris B's blog about the cyclic trimerization of aliphatic aldehydes. Would these trimers register on a GC test?
  21. Thread: Hedione

    by ToddHuyett
    Replies
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    4,666

    Re: Hedione

    You definitely have to smell it in a blend to experience its effects. Please report back after experimenting. You could even try the same experiment with just some bergamot or limonene. Perhaps 5...
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    Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    I recently acquired some Terpinolene 90. Personally, I like its effects, but I noticed that the demo formulas online are intended for use in all-purpose cleaner and dishwashing liquid...
  23. Thread: Hedione

    by ToddHuyett
    Replies
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    Re: Hedione

    I've been recreating Virgin Island Water, which is roughly 20% Hedione. I must say that nothing could replace it; in fact, you could take away the bergamot or lime and still have a decent fragrance,...
  24. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    Thanks a lot for your reply, David. It helps confirm some of my suspicions about the issue of volatility when trying to detect some of these oxidation and polymerization products.
  25. GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I am wondering what fatty aldehydes such as C-9, C-10, C-11, C-12 MNA, etc., become when they undergo oxidation. Having researched the matter for a while, I have decided to turn to basenotes for...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    What type of fragrance might this accord serve as a starting point for? Making the accord itself is easy enough, but some readers (and I am among them) might not know what to use it for. I see that...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Interesting thread. Thanks, everyone.
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    Yes, but they promptly did their utmost to rectify the situation, and now I am satisfied. All of my dealings with them have been positive.
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    First of all, it says on the PA site that the key accords are Givaudan practice exercises. You can see what's in them, so they are pedagogically useful to people like us who are learning to make...
  30. Re: Fragrance Oils = synthetics. So why variances in quality???

    I'm still a beginner like you, but I'll do my best to answer:

    For one thing, fragrance oils are blends of aroma chemicals, and natural materials such as essential oils can also be present. Since...
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    Yes. Also specialty bases and individual oils.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Bacdanol smells great and arguably doesn't need any rounding. I'm a Bacdanol man now. However, if you want something that packs a lot of punch, you'll need to go with the other molecules.
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    All I have to say here is that if you'd like to recreate a fragrance via GC, don't have a Lucky Scent sample tested. I made that mistake recently. It included the following:

    lilial diethyl acetal...
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    Is Santaliff supposed to smell urinous? Mine certainly does. The same sort of urinous note sometimes encountered in cedarwood oils.
  35. Thread: Shelf lives

    by ToddHuyett
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    1,663

    Re: Shelf lives

    I'm really glad you mentioned the point about p-cymene. I'm working from a GC test, and the samples I had tested were apparently really old; the top notes of this particular fragrance are bergamot...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    You could be right about that, but there are 2 black agar blends for sale on creatingperfume.com, the other being this one, which is the same one on PA. I therefore think Blackwood might be another...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    I am talking about this stuff: http://www.creatingperfume.com/blackwoodfirmenich.aspx

    Well, if nobody has tried it, I'll order a sample and report back.
  38. Cold, Powerful Iris Accords and Auxiliary Materials

    I'd like to start learning to work with iris. At the moment, I have some Alpha Irone, Irival and Orris Givco. I have used the Irone and the base as auxiliary materials in various blends, but now I'd...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    Thanks to both of you for the information. I still haven't smelt the real thing yet, so I guess that's what I'll have to do. I just noticed another Firmenich oud base called Blackwood. I wonder if...
  40. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    Thank you. I appreciate that.
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    Powerful Arabian oud note

    I have had Black Agar Givco and the Firmenich Oud Blend for a while now. Although they both smell great, I suppose I expected something more powerful. How do you get that really powerful Arabian oud...
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    Irone Economics

    Why aren't irones more readily available at a low price? Are production costs higher than average?
  43. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    Thanks, Paul. Looks like I'll have to go with one of them if iso-cyclocitral doesn't work. I see that SAFC offers a $40 sample.
  44. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    I was going to start a new thread on cyclocitral, but this thread seems to cover it. I'm working from a GC test that calls for beta-cyclocitral (CAS 432-25-7). Nobody seems to be selling it, so would...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    I can still smell it after 12 hours. I could smell it from the bottom of the stairs when I came in from work (my room is on the top floor). Just a drop on my dresser. Amazing stuff.
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    My geosmin arrived from Hermitage this week. It's amazing. Even at 1% I merely have to put a drop of it on the surface of my dresser (no diffuser or anything needed) and it fills the room. It goes...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    Well, you all have alpha irone and geosmin. May they never go out of stock.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Sold. Just placed an order.

    Once you all start carrying a red herring specialty base (for throwing off GC jockeys) I'll conclude that you have everything.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    I have never tried it, and until just a moment ago, I had not seen it for sale (now I see that it's sold by Hermitage). The the EO and even the CO2 oils definitely aren't giving me the results I'm...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    You are definitely right. The chamomile can easily be smelt; in fact, it's the only natural I can clearly smell in there.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Frankincense is difficult to work with, and you never know how people are going to react to it. Some people think it smells medicinal. I had some Oman EO on my wrists at work one day. My boss started...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Yeah, I can see potential in it. I originally bought it because I thought it would get me a dry, woody frankincense note like the "frankincense" in Avignon. I just haven't figured out how to use it...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    I've been trying to account for the large amount of alpha pinene in the GC analysis above. Elemi, chamomile, frankincense, and labdanum would be the main contributors. However, for the % to be .46,...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Eden's Oman EO:

    Primary Constituents : Alpha-Pinene, Limonene, Borneol, Incensoloxide

    From Eden's Frankincense Somalia CO2:

    Components %
    1- α Thujene 4.5
    2 - α Pinene 27.6
    3 -...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Thanks a lot for the tip. I will give it a try.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    That doesn't surprise me. As much as I love the CdG incense series, they don't match the ingredients with the geographical locations and religions too well, although I guess it ultimately doesn't...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Good question. I should have mentioned that. I have serrata CO2, carterii CO2, sacra EO, and this "heart note" type that is obtained via molecular distillation....
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    frankincense accords

    I have a few questions related to frankincense, especially concerning its use as one of the main notes in incense fragrances. I realize that some of the questions might not have clear answers.

    1....
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    Re: diluting calone crystals

    Well what I mean is that when I'm experimenting with chemicals and oils, I sometimes dilute them to 25% or 50% by just eyeballing the vial, which isn't very precise. Now I know I probably shouldn't...
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    Re: diluting calone crystals

    At first I didn't believe what people were saying about the strength of Calone. I tested it out in a very simple eau de cologne I blended. I took a pinch of the crystals and dropped it in about 5 ml...
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    I'll definitely try it at some point. Sounds interesting. I didn't think you worked for them. I can't imagine Nature's Bounty employees prowling Basenotes looking for opportunities to convince...
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    Thank you for sharing that information, Chris. You are quite generous with your knowledge. Yeah, I really like the smell of Raspberry Ketone, but it's definitely not the top/heart berry note I need....
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    Thanks to both of you for your replies. I recently acquired Muscone, Habanolide, and Exaltolide, and I can smell all three. I found that Exaltolide certainly does have a synergistic effect on other...
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    It's interesting that you mention that phenomenon, as it has happened to me quite a few times. When I first smelled beta ionone I couldn't smell a thing. Then after adding loads of it to a concoction...
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    Re: santal replacement

    Just got some Santaliff. It smells slightly urinous. Is it supposed to?
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    Thank you for tipping us off, Ramute! Hermitage seems to have all the cool stuff right now.
  67. Replies
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    I can smell the detergent note in Galaxolide, but not the blackberries. Personally, I wouldn't wear it on its own, but I like the effect it has in combination with other materials. I'd like to know...
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    Re: Musk anosmia among perfumers

    Thank you for the reply, cacio. I just got some Auratouch, and I only smell a faint fruity odor, which leads me to believe I can't smell the macrocyclic musks in it. I'll have to order one of them...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    It seems like the cheapest way to get geosmin (if you don't want to shell out a few hundred dollars) is to use one of those Demeter fragrances as a solvent.
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    diluting calone crystals

    I have a 4 ml vial of calone crystals from Perfumer's Apprentice. Roughly how much solvent should I use? I don't have a scale and I'm not trying to be all that precise at this point.
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Well that's a really good point. I guess it must be the relative intensity at the beginning; I mistook it for top notes. I might not have perceived it that way had I known I was smelling a chemical...
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    Musk anosmia among perfumers

    How common is musk anosmia among perfumers, and how would it affect their work? I imagine that it would only affect their ability to work with the particular materials they can't smell.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Thanks for the reply, Renegade. My Irival came yesterday and I'll go ahead and second your description (cold orris top/middle note). Unlike Orris Givco, which is more linear, Irival has an opening...
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    Re: Rose Ketone Family Complete List

    Thank you for the resource, Paul. I had not heard of it before, as I'm somewhat new to this. I appreciate your reply.
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Alright, so by now, someone here has tried both Irival and Orris Givco. How do they compare? I have the latter, and it's quite good. I'm wondering if Irival has more irones. I would order alpha irone...
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    Important Languages in Perfumery

    What are the most important languages in perfumery? More specifically, I am talking about scholarly articles and textbooks, but I suppose this can also include, blogs, forums, and popular literature.
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    Rose Ketone Family Complete List

    The more rose ketones I smell, the more I like the family. Does anyone have a complete list of the rose ketones or perhaps a link to such a list?
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    Re: inexpensive sandalwood absolute

    Your sandalwood accord looks interesting, Chris, and it also looks like something that would save a beginner like me a lot of time. I plan to order some supplies from Hermitage at some point in the...
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    Re: inexpensive sandalwood absolute

    Thanks for letting me know. The price is certainly good, so based on what you have said, I'll give it a try. Perhaps it would add naturalness to synthetic sandalwood accords.
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    Re: inexpensive sandalwood absolute

    Thanks a lot for your reply, Chris. After thinking it over, I opted for the sandalwood key accord sold on Perfumer's Apprentice, which contains Javanol, Ebanol, and Methyl Laitone, among a few other...
  81. Re: What is meant by "incense" in a perfume?

    One thing to bear in mind here is that the French word encens means frankincense (if I'm not mistaken). Therefore when you see that word printed on a perfume bottle, it should mean frankincense....
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    inexpensive sandalwood absolute

    While shopping for sandalwood oil on edenbotanicals.com, I noticed that the New Caledonia absolute is about half the price of the essential oil. It says in the description that it smells like maple...
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