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    Re: Watery Green Base Notes...?

    what do u mean?

    The top materials in my opinion for green watery effect are:

    1.cyclogalbanate
    2. floropal ( a watery version of styrallyl acetate)
    3. ethyl linalool
    4.jasmonyl (in trace)...
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    Don't expect much from benzyl benzoate. It's essentially odorless. Some believe it increases floralcy. In fact it is a component of many floral naturals.
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    One reason to use ambroxan instead of the tincture is that it lacks the fecal note
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Evenick, the mastic oil mastiha shop is selling is from the mastic growers association and is the only original mastic oil.
    Personally I don't know any other retailer selling mastic oil in these...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Mumsy you are absolutely entitled to your opinion and use only naturals as you want.

    I will respect the fact that it is a choice of course.

    Although it is a choice driven by an obsession.
    ...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    It's in benzyl benzoate.

    This replacer can be used as normal heliotropin. Benzyl benzoate has no impact on the scent.


    As to natural perfumers, I don't how they propagate, every now and then...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Yes, this is true. The closest to mastic oil is frankincence oil. They both have large amounts of alpha pinene. Frankincense oil is way more lemony though. Also mastic oil has a sweet aspect that is...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    No it is steam distillation.

    This is the page of the mastiha growers association for further information.

    Something also worth mentioning is that once diluted to ethanol the dilution is a bit...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Sorry for the late reply.

    Mastic (the real thing) is produced only in the island of Chios, Greece.
    Nowhere else in the world.
    I talk about the Chia variation of Pistacia lentiscus tree that...
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    Re: Warming up florals

    i'll put in a different way then. If we add aldehydes to carnation it will go to a sharp, clean, bright, soapy direction.
    i'm looking for a backbone of few materials (synthetics I guess) that will...
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    Warming up florals

    What would you use to give a warm effect on soliflores like carnation or rose?
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    Iso E super and Kephalis

    What differences do you notice between those two?

    At which type of fragrances do you prefer to use the one and where the other?
  13. Thread: Benzoin Siam

    by nicok
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    Re: Benzoin Siam

    Thank you for the feedback guys. From what I read and from my experience from benzoin sumatra, I believe that the benzoin siam from olfactik is either diluted to a carrier or synthetic. I'd love to...
  14. Thread: Benzoin Siam

    by nicok
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    Benzoin Siam

    Is that possible for benzoin Siam (styrax tonkinesis) to be nearly fully pourable if not diluted?

    I had benzoin resinoid 50% (styrax benzoin) and again it had to be warmed to become pourable.
    ...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Nearly all naturals. David from your choices I assume that you love chypres.

    Also never smelled black current buds abs.. So curious now.
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Bill where do you get your jasmolactone?

    My fav materials not in order:

    Benzyl Salicylate - classic, vintage, modern, anything you want. Perfect!

    Lilial - Awesome material. I like all...
  17. Thread: Powdery effect

    by nicok
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    Re: Powdery effect

    I guess powdery is a very subjective term. I think all the above would have a powdery effect as part of a chypre accord, but what i'm looking for is the powdery effect javanol for example has after...
  18. Thread: Powdery effect

    by nicok
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    Powdery effect

    What materials or combinations of materials do use to give a powdery effect like in Dior men's fragrances?
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    Re: What The Hell Makes Joop! Homme So Powerful?

    Joop is the Parthenon of perfumery.. Can't believe you hate it Paul.. lol
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    Re: Nopyl Acetate and others

    Thanks David!


    Looks unusual from its description.

    herbal linalyl acetate woody pine lavender

    I will replace it with benzyl Sal. and will see what is missing from the fragrance
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    Nopyl Acetate and others

    I found a significant amount of nopyl Acetate in a GCMS. Also a smaller amount of Nopol and also ethyl linoleate.

    Couldn't find much information about them on TGSC. Does anybody knows if they are...
  22. Re: Want to try to recreate prada infusion d'iris. . Help??

    I have the GCMS of this fragrance.

    PM me if you interested to buy it at small cost.
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    Re: volatile coffee EO

    I have the Coffee EO from olfactik. It is not fully soluble in alcohol. it smells nice but left a sediment
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    Re: fragrance DIY in dreams

    Haha.. You're just obsessed like me to make your scents smell perfect I think..
  25. Thread: Le Labo

    by nicok
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    Re: Le Labo

    Le labo is mixing the perfume concentrate with alcohol in front of you. That's all.
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    Re: Developing a formula - any help appreciated

    It looks nice..

    I would use less ambroxan, add a lot of a musk blend (around 20parts in your formula), 10 parts iso e, 7 parts benzyl salicylate and maybe traces of citral for a nice top
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    Patchouli Soliflore

    The mother of a friend, knowing that I make fragrances has begged me to make a patchouli fragrance for her.
    Patchouli is the scent of her life.. It is everywhere in her house and in her memories.....
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    Re: What musk to get from PA?

    Better buy a premade base like auratouch and auranone. Not a single molcule like galaxolide. Galaxolide is not so impressive on its own.
    Auranone though has a berry top note that makes it kinda...
  29. Thread: Smell of Kos ...

    by nicok
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    Re: Smell of Kos ...

    Hi Jason,

    Buying all these naturals without the knowledge of how to make a perfume will be a waste of money.

    Jasmine absolute is very expensive for example..

    I'm Greek myself, and grew up...
  30. Thread: Honey note

    by nicok
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    Re: Honey note

    What is the basic Honey accord?
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    I probably the only one that is anosmic to Methyl laitone. Everybody finds it strong. I smell nothing. How does it smells to you?
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    If u just dilute the citrus accord in alcohol it will not smell like a perfume.

    To have something that smells like a perfume using this accord you could begin with the following:

    Hedione 20% -...
  33. Re: So I'm thinking of doing a Scent Analysis...

    You definitely need the GCMS to recreate a fragrance.
    It's so sad that perfumer's apprentice stopped to provide this service.

    Paul the company you mentioned seems very expensive. Do they give...
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    Re: EO dilution is cloudy

    My juniper EO dilution is cloudy too as are several others, but you will not get a cloudy perfume if u use these materials in the perfume given that they are very strong and u need tiny amounts.
  35. Re: A list of fragrance formulas i would like to see

    What was the conclusion for the key ingredients of fille en Aiguilles then?
  36. Re: A list of fragrance formulas i would like to see

    There are tens of fragrances I'd like to know their formulas like:

    -Chergui
    -Magnolia Romana
    -Magnetism
    -Joop
    -Tam Dao


    As regards to Black Afgano it has an overdose of the following...
  37. Re: Propolis - various types from various places - long term experiment - samples welcome

    How is the strength of the dilution of a tincture calculated in perfumery?
    If I make a 10% w/w mix of propolis in ethanol, given that there will be a sediment I guess the dilution of the tincture...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    In this fragrance there is some amount of a and b pinene shown in the GC and also limonene that can indicate frankincense, but I think a and b pinene are also abundant in labdanum. Frankincense EO...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Despite the lack of real frankincense this fragrance achieves perfectly the smell of the catholic church.

    I think it is one of the masterpieces of the last decades. Not necessarily wearable but...
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    Re: AC in EU with quality and good price?

    Hexapus is very expensive in shipping, never ordered from them.
    Hermitage is very expensive in general, but good quality.

    I think PA is still the best for europe too.
    Also olfactik from the...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    I have recreated it myself using only a touch of Frankincense and not the EO, but the CO2.
    I also didn't use chamomile.. Dunno but the one I have simply doesn't match, maybe another variety would...
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    Re: frankincense accords

    U need vertofix coeur and labdanum, not so much frankincense.

    Andy tauer has used seratta CO2 in Incence rose.
  43. Thread: Magnolia Accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Magnolia Accord

    I haven't tried the above accord yet, but it doesn't looks like magnolia to me either.. For example I don't get something like Guaiacwood in magnolia living flower.

    Magnolia is becoming very...
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    I also have some GCs from Linda.

    In the analysis you see as u said some solvents as well and some ethanol as u said. U may see materials that are not solvents but they are there for some reason. ...
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    Re: Benzyl Benzoate, smell of...

    Somewhere I read that benzyl benzoate increases the floracity of a perfume. Has anybody noticed such an impact on his blends?
  46. Thread: Freesia accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Freesia accord

    Myraldyl Acetate is lovely but not so freesia indeed. But I think it has space in a freesia accord.

    Dimetol is probably what u are looking for. To me it is like dihydromyrnesol towards freesia.
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    Paul the original Poucher formula has 2% tuberose absolute, but David replaced it with 0.5% methyl tuberate.
    This evening I blended the formula with 2% tuberose absolute and cis jasmone instead of...
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    Ah great.. I should have figured it is from Poucher.. His bases are all time classics.
    I find lyral more pleasant than hydroxycitronellal and the second has a rotten grass undertone to me that i...
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    David this is an awesome base! I made it without the methyl tuberate that I will hopefully have soon and it is already awesome..

    May I ask which is your source?

    It has all the aspects of...
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    Re: Jean Claude Elena basenote

    helional and melonal are kinda watery from this list.
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    Re: complete newbie, which starter kit please.

    I have the kit number 3, and it came with the formulas of several bases. I don't remember them all but I can l check it and tell u.
    The bases are jasmine, rose, chypre, fougere, lily of the valley,...
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    Re: complete newbie, which starter kit please.

    Yes it's a nice kit, and it was around 20-30 pounds I think for the shipment.
    geranium, neroli, bergamot, oakmoss, patchouli, sandalwood are all naturals from this kit. Don't buy them again!

    ...
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    Re: Amber and White Musk

    Dear shsj,

    Welcome to the forum and wish you a nice journey in perfume making.
    I agree that the there are tens of things to read and study, but I'll give you very quick replies to your...
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    Re: complete newbie, which starter kit please.

    I'd like to add here that olfactik's formula kits are very good.
    The largest kit has anything somebody needs to build jasmine and rose from scratch and also make a chypre or fougere base.
    I'd...
  55. Thread: Limonene

    by nicok
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    Re: Limonene

    I ordered some d-limonene and I'll blend again.
    I also had the impression that colognes contain lots of citrus oils but this seems to be wrong or partly correct.
    It seems that the cologne effect...
  56. Thread: Limonene

    by nicok
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    Limonene

    I got the GC of two fragrances and both of them have a high amount of Limonene - around 11%.
    The GC gives the cas 138-86-3 and says it's not from natural.
    I can only find d-limonene from olfactik...
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    Re: With or without Ambroxan?

    If u add any of them it won't smell like Molecule 01 anymore.
    You bought quite interesting materials.. You can definitely make something nice with them..

    My first blend would be something like...
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    Re: santal replacement

    benzyl salicylate and sandalwood is simply a miracle in my opinion. This is the idea of my first finished fragrance.. benzyl salicylate boosts the balsamic aspect of sandalwood.

    For Sandalwood I...
  59. Re: Please help me find this special hidden ingredient

    That's a very nice post..

    Spayer the backbone of almost all of the commercial fragrances is very similar and it is a blend of Iso E super, Hedione and Galaxolide (or any combination of Musks)....
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    By the way an awesome vanilla perfume, one of the best I ever smelled is un bois vanille from Serge Lutens. It is a very minimal yet wonderful composition with an overdose of benzyl salicylate that I...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    Paul what happened in your childhood and you dislike vanilla?
    I would be interested to know if there is a vanillic material that a vanilla hater likes though..
    Vanilla absolute maybe?
    I find it...
  62. Thread: Acetates

    by nicok
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    Re: Acetates

    Thanks guys for all the information. As they are in tiny amounts I tend to believe that they come from a natural as Paul said. I get a lot of neroli and petitgrain in that fragrance
  63. Thread: Acetates

    by nicok
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    Re: Acetates

    Thanks David. I have never smelled them. They are both generally floral / rosy right?
    As they are in very small amounts according to the GC, I'm thinking to use something else instead of buying...
  64. Thread: Acetates

    by nicok
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    Acetates

    Are geranyl acetate and neryl acetate shown on a GC likely to be aging products of geraniol and nerol?
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    Re: Dried Human Saliva Scent

    Cashmeran has a saliva tone. But Jesus Christ, in this forum we have talked so much about notes that I really don't know why people find them interesting. Fecal notes, Sweaty, animalic..
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Nizan I think there will be cultivation of tuberose in Israel. But again maybe it is extremely dry.
    I grew up in Greece, and they cultivate tuberoses in the place I used to live. I can't forget...
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Nizan if you smell tuberose real flower you will be out of it. It is the most erotic, sensual, and hypnotic scent in the world. I love it more than gardenia, jasmine or the other white florals. The...
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    Re: Less volatile alternatives to linalool

    If you are using linalol for a floral composition I don't think I can help you. But if you use the Linalool / Linalyl Acetate twin for the bergamot effect, then u may want to to try the synthetic...
  69. Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I believe he is talking in general about the odorless chemicals found in GCMS of Jasmine. Although I don't believe that any perfumer has access or using such chemicals. I was asking the other day a...
  70. Re: Magnetic Scent blog - "finding the right solvents"

    I have smelled that guys jasmine and I have to say it is very realistic. What he says in his blog is that the solvents have a very important impact in the performance of the scent. Very interesting....
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    Re: Storage of perfumes in plastic vials

    I have noticed that plastic vials affect the smell of the content. Not immediately but in the long run. I use them though to blend and try my blends, but not for storage
  72. Thread: Ylang Ylang

    by nicok
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    Re: Ylang Ylang

    An overdose of Ylang and an overdose of aldehyde c12 or MNA gives the lovely soapy effect present in channel no5. 37% is something more than an overdose though. Ylang is extremely strong oil
  73. Thread: Farnesol

    by nicok
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    Re: Farnesol

    Resurrecting an old post again. I smell nothing from farnesol. I have managed to smell hydroxycitronellal and nearly all musks, but get nothing from this. Is it supposed to be used for its impact on...
  74. Thread: Fig Accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Fig Accord

    Gourmand sounds good. How do u achieve a hazelnut smell? U use a natural? I also spent three hours yesterday playing with fig.. If u end up with something good yourself let me know..
  75. Thread: Fig Accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Fig Accord

    What else you think blends well with fig? I was trying yesterday with several naturals and synthetics but looks uneasy to match it with something.
  76. Thread: Fig Accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Fig Accord

    It is the smell of the leaf. The fruit fig won't be far from the above combination , but of curse it would be a more complex accord
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    Re: Green Irish water

    I don't find their dry down similar. Anyway I think cool water is horrible and green irish tweed lovely. I thing what's left from cool water -its heaviest molecules are calone, abroxan, musk( I...
  78. Thread: Fig Accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Fig Accord

    Nizan, the fig accord is one of the easiest. It is just gamma octalactone and stemone. More of the first, less of the second. I had a big fig tree in the house I grew up and I can ensure you that the...
  79. Thread: truest ambergris

    by nicok
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    Re: truest ambergris

    For how long should it be tinctured?
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    I haven't noticed anything to lilial though, it just becomes slightly weaker as the time goes by. Shall I preserve it in alcohol too you think David?

    It's a pity that some of the most beautiful...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Graphite, also something that maybe interesting. Recently I dissolved aldehyde C12 lauric at 1% in perfumers alcohol (about 80-85%ethanol) to use for blending and I made a solution of 50% with the...
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    What is the closest to Cashmeran?

    I'd like to replace it in a formula. What is the closest material or combination of materials? I made an effort with velvione. Is there anything better?
  83. Thread: Hedione effects

    by nicok
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    Re: Hedione effects

    That's so very right. I definitely smell it on ck one or the newer aqua vitae but it is so faint by itself on the smelling strip.
    I also have noticed that commercial perfumes with large quantities...
  84. Thread: Modern Fougere

    by nicok
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    Re: Modern Fougere

    Thanks a lot David. A lot of materials to research then.
    I use of course many naturals and I love them. I'm just thinking if the basic fougere accord could be interpreted and created from more...
  85. Thread: Modern Fougere

    by nicok
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    Re: Modern Fougere

    David what synthetics would you recommend as replacements to lavander, oakmoss and geranium?
  86. Thread: Modern Fougere

    by nicok
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    Modern Fougere

    I really love fougeres, but they smell so 80s to me, and even though I love to smell them I wouldn't wear them easily.
    I'm thinking of making a variation of the basic fougere accord, made of similar...
  87. Thread: Equalide P

    by nicok
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    Re: Equalide P

    I guess it may be one of the known musks. Yes it is part of their formula kit. I'll send them an email. It is solid as coumarin and had to warm it. Its smell is similar to the galaxolide, exaltolide...
  88. Thread: Equalide P

    by nicok
    Replies
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    Equalide P

    Olfactik sells a material called Equalide P, that smells and sounds like a musk.
    Couldn't find anything about it on the internet. Is it another name of a common musk?
  89. Thread: Farnesol

    by nicok
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    Farnesol

    Has anybody ever smelled it? I see it in many formulas and I read it is a lovely material to create magnolia or gardenia.
    Is restricted to some amounts or prohibited?
  90. Thread: Gardenia accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Gardenia accord

    Styrallyl Acetate is very nice and green. Doesn't have the chemical feeling of stemone. Just discovered it is called gardenol too, obviously because of gardenia.
    David what you think gives the...
  91. Thread: Gardenia accord

    by nicok
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    Re: Gardenia accord

    I have this accord and it is not so much Gardenia to me either. Ilove gardenia's flower and had the chance to smell the again few days ago that I visited my family.

    It is a very nice accord...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    I don't know. I have more than 100 materials and I knew only about aldehydes. And here I read about Hydroxycitronellal and lilial. So there are maybe more materials we should preserve in alcohol. I...
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    Re: Incense note needed

    Frankincense EO doesn't have the churchy smell. It is indeed lemony with some sticky note. Useful but not for an incense accord. Try the CO2 extract.
    Andy Tauer has used the co2 extract and his...
  94. Replies
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Could somebody summarize the materials that need to be diluted in alcohol in order not to become oxidized (apart from the Aldehydes)? I had some lilial neat for over a year and it started developing...
  95. Thread: Magnolia Accord

    by nicok
    Replies
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    1,838

    Magnolia Accord

    Any ideas on how to build a clean / fresh Magnolia accord?

    I want a modern very simple clean magnolia like the one in body lotions so I wouldn't like to use tuberose abs for example.

    I detect...
  96. Re: Are there any quality natural aromatics suppliers with an extensive range in U.K?

    Check http://www.olfactik.com too.
    Very nice website
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