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  1. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    I'm going to repeat myself, but "couche" is also an old word that means bed. Here it is "Devil's Bed".
    Also, google translate is in my experience one of the poorest online translators.
  2. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    My wardrobe is not up to date, and anyways there's no need to own a fragrance to smell it- just go to Barneys or whichever Lutens retailer you have nearby. I'd suggest you try to have your own...
  3. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Change of direction, there's no doubt, but drop in quality I disagree. I love the old loud bulldozers, and also think that most recent ones (l'orpheline, la religieuse and some the Eau series) are...
  4. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Haha I will! For now I m in the US, it hasn't arrived yet, but I will be in Paris next month... so...
    As of now, the only notes we know of is Oud and Labdanum. Obviously, there's for sure much more...
  5. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    Compared to the majority of people, I may. But based on your comments, I actually feel very open-minded compared to you.

    - - - Updated - - -



    I disagree. Marketing is the result of market...
  6. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    No, but for sure the new (at the time) version of birch tar-like chemical (aka leather note) is what made the fragrance gets its attention and commercial success, the same molecule that gave its...
  7. Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    Laotian Oud, that's correct, probably in very low quantities, and with a strong support of aromachemicals that supposedly simulate oud. Furthermore, there are many qualities of oud.

    The only...
  8. Re: Does Oud Ispahan by Dior use real oud?

    This.
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    Re: Weird discounts

    I don't always understand the rationale ever behind such pricing. I would guess that it's an error, or maybe they discounted only one of the two, for some obscure marketing reasons.
    Also...
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    Re: Is Byredo a copycat brand?

    Not copycat, just "highly inspired" by others ;)

    I had the same impression about Epinette's AC Tobacco Nuit, which is kind of a less refined version of Geza Schoen's Bouddica Wode, issued a couple...
  11. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Until we test it, that may be difficult.
    But I understand from your comment that you have tested it. What are your thoughts on this one?

    I haven't had the chance to test Bas de Soie (Silk...
  12. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    Sarcasm is uselessly provocative. Very immature.
  13. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    That's your personal opinion. I care for recent Lutens releases, and love L'Orpheline.

    What I still haven't understood though, it's why people care for Turin's opinions. But that's a discussion...
  14. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    And it seems to be in the regular collection (that means at less than $100 in a year at discounters... yeah!!

    https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Serge-Lutens/La-Couche-du-Diable-55547.html
  15. Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    "la couche" can indeed mean "diaper", but it's also an old word that means "bed". Devil's bed makes more sense than Devil's diaper in my opinion.
    (Le couche' is the act of going to bed).
    ...
  16. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    The point? Exchanging ideas and opinions about fragrances, maybe? That's what most of the users of this forum are here for. Now... as for the finality, there's none indeed. It's just about a hobby,...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Fresh from this morning. Great review of L'Eau de Paille by Galen (Aetherealist).


    https://youtu.be/f_jUezMOfxQ
  18. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    Ok.

    Carven was the first to use vetiver as the main player in a fragrance, and that a lot of vetivers arrived after that and have - obviously - strong similarities due to vetiver smell.
    So,...
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    Re: Lutens Vetiver orientl

    You may want to check my post on vetivers here, and also Mythrol's reference thread on vetivers here.

    If you like Sycomore, a much cheaper (and nearly as good) alternative is Encre Noire a'...
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    Re: acqua di parma suggestion

    Deleted
  21. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    I can see similar vibes between the two, but a "vibe" is not enough to define a fragrance a "clone". Clone means exact identical (or at least very similar). Vibe means it's just in the same range...
  22. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    It would be more accurate to talk about "variations" than "clones" imo.

    A lot of fragrances have been qualified of "aventus clone" just because they have pineapple in it, despite they are not even...
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    Re: Lutens Vetiver orientl

    Sorry to hear that.

    I was quite pleased with it, at such a point that I rank it as my #1 vetiver over ~20 I own, and probably 40-50 I have smelt. For sure, this is not one on the fresh side for...
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    Re: (USA) Le Labo

    Same question here
  25. Re: Current versions of fragrances in your collection

    There's nothing more annoying than having a discussion with someone, and realize after one hour that the two are saying the same thing using different words. (or the opposite). So yes, I would say...
  26. Re: Current versions of fragrances in your collection

    It depends what one means by "current versions". Is it:

    1- the same fragrance as before with a small reformulation? (like pre vs post-IFRA). In this case I would recommend the current one price...
  27. Re: Really disappointed with CDNIM. Where to go next...Parfums Vintage?

    I haven't smelt CDNIM men, but I have smelt Aventus. Despite that, I don't get it either.
    What about ditching completely pineapple stuff, and go for something interesting instead?
  28. Re: Any "Must Try" Le Labo City Exclusives?

    Also tried the Baie Rose 26 at the Chicago store: agreed that it's nothing to loose sleep about. Given the price tag, it's a hard pass for me.
    I've read that the Miami frag (Tabac 28) is a great...
  29. Re: Compliments...is it a cultural thing?

    I lived in several countries, and the US is the only place where it happened to me to be stopped in the street and receive a compliment (on the appearance) or at work for example, possibly on...
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    Re: Fragrances that "WOW" you recently?

    Monsillage Aviation Club
    Hermes Bel-Ami
    Boucheron pour Homme
  31. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    Vintage Michael for Men is on my testlist, but haven't manage to put my hands on it yet. The current version is just "meh" for what I've understood of the reviews.

    Bentley for Men doesn't work...
  32. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail?

    I only own the rockstar (Or Black), and not convinced to pull the trigger on others from this house because of mixed reviews. Thus it would be great if you could give us a quick feedback for each of...
  33. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail?

    Amouage Epic Man
  34. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail?

    You won't be. Tested side by side with Encre Noire à l'Extreme: their hearts are very similar (even the quality), and personally I prefer ENE's drydown.
  35. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    Morabito Or Black? Boozy??
    I get a leather-ish violet with moss and resins. No booze to my nose.
    As for Ricard... meh... maybe the hint of rosemary may be reminiscent of anise...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I suggest you try:
    - L'Innomable (unisex/masculine)
    - Le Participe Passé (unisex/masculine)
    - Vitriol d'Oeillet (masculine)
    - L'Orpheline (unisex)
    - La Religieuse (feminine)
    - L'Haleine des...
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    Re: Today I bought June 2019

    Tried Boy no later than last week. Very nice!!
  38. Re: Which Fragrance Are You Currently Waiting To Be Delivered In The Mail?

    Ulrich Lang Lightscape and Nightscape.
  39. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    Sounds like we'll have to limit our discussions to tobacco, and avoid the booze theme, Brooks! :lolk:
  40. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    I'm glad you went back to reason by yourself :laugh:
  41. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    I am on any team, except the Bentley Intense one. Even on the Bogart One Man Show team if needed.
  42. Thread: Booze

    by Andy the frenchy
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    Re: Booze

    MMM Jazz Club (not my favourite, but still, much better than Bentley Intense)
    Terenzi Laudano Nero (what Bentley Intense dreams to be, and will not even remotely ever manage to be)
    Zegna Passion...
  43. Re: What's Your Summer Rotation Looking Like?

    Mildly warm days:

    All the green vetivers (Guerlains, Carven, EN sport, Zegna, Gorilla, Saab, Monsillage)
    Dunhill Icon
    VC&A Cologne Noire
    MFK Aqua Universalis Forte
    L'Eau Bleue d'Issey
    MMM At...
  44. Re: What's Your Summer Rotation Looking Like?

    You should wear whatever you like, whenever you like. That said, Fahrenheit parfum and DHI in the summer? I couldn't. One needs courage to that. (or to reside in Alaska).

    Just kidding, enjoy! But...
  45. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    You're welcome! Sometimes I have some writing ambition haha

    Wafts form the Lofts (Jo and Dan) are really great, really passionated, and really focused on the fragrances themselves. I suggest you...
  46. Re: BEWARE: Possible fake Roja Dove frags from FragranceX, FineScents, etc.

    Ok, thank you for your answer.
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    Re: SOTD: Friday, 7th June, 2019

    Today, I wish it was a relaxed day. "Blue jeans Friday" like they say in the US. The kind of Friday where you go to work with a coloured shirt, leaving the last 2 buttons of the shirt open. The kind...
  48. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    Ok. Then it's a totally deceptive marketing if there's really nothing in common under the same name/bottle. Not ok to sell a ferrari with a toyota corolla engine.
  49. Re: BEWARE: Possible fake Roja Dove frags from FragranceX, FineScents, etc.

    :huh: not even one full bottle worthy in your opinion? C'mon Hednic, tell us your real thoughts ;)
  50. Re: BEWARE: Possible fake Roja Dove frags from FragranceX, FineScents, etc.

    Indeed. And if looking at the real bottle (left), it isn't perfect either. I wonder if that's not just a poor of quality control compared to houses who produce large amounts.
    That said, the flooding...
  51. Re: BEWARE: Possible fake Roja Dove frags from FragranceX, FineScents, etc.

    I tried 3 different Roja Dove frags. All great in terms of scent but poor projection. Performance issues are not necessary a sign of fake, in case of Roja.
  52. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    Well, that's not a reformulation then, it's a new fragrance made from the same base, and using the same name. A little like D&G pour Homme (1994 vs 2012), Carven Homme/Carven Pour Homme and Carven...
  53. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    This.
    And even if reformulation should occur, imo other factors impact much more the scent and the performance than the reformulation itself. (Basically: one may also feel a difference with a...
  54. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    Don't know this frag. But what counts is not what a mass spectrmeter can see, but what a nose can perceive (with the reasonable assumption that most of the reform-commenters/bloggers/vloggers are not...
  55. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    I agree with you overall, but keep in mind that most of the reviewers who do top x something are in the fragrance business (online store, decant store), or are looking to increase their subscribers...
  56. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    I was talking about an opened vintage bottle that has air in the bottle vs a recent sealed bottle of the same frag. A sealed bottle, even from 20 years ago, will not move an inch in scent, if...
  57. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    I agree with that statement. His good mood is relaxing, nice to watch, but contemporary-focused and his judgements of fragrances are unclear (a criticism I often do to many "politically correct"...
  58. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    I'd suggest you try to look a few vids from Galen (Aetherealist): he focuses on what he likes, independently of the cost, but always staying down-to-earth with good tips, since he also does not have...
  59. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    This.

    Slumberhouse and Bogue are independently-owned "niche houses"

    Clive Christian, Roja Dove, Louis Vuitton are "luxury mass market brands" (most of them are now just brands of large luxury...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Sorry, I just realized you asked about decants, not full bottles... I have no clue about decants, I never buy decants for ethical reasons (I dislike the easy money - usually between 20% and 40%...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Yes. Just apply the basic rules of caution:

    1/ check that the seller has already done a certain amount of sales (at least 20 or so)
    2/ check that he/she has at least 98% positive reviews (if more...
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    Re: Help with rounding out my collection

    Interesting and smart way to build a collection to avoid over collecting frags.

    I would say that you miss the following categories (I give 2 examples, both good, the first being affordable, the...
  63. Re: List and rate the tobacco frags you've worn

    Got it. Thank you for sharing your opinion on that one! (and sorry for having bugged your swap thread :) )
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    Re: Thoughts on Straight to Heaven?

    A nice scent. Should you not want to break the bank again, I'd suggest you try Tiziana Terenzi Ursa, with which it is often compared to. Also a niche brand, but it retails for ~$120/100ml online...
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    Re: Areej le Dore Free Shipping

    Thanks for the info, even if the main issue with Areej is not really the shipping fee imo...
  66. Re: Most affordable place for Roja samples?

    I'd suggest you locate a store that carries Roja, and sample them directly in store. That's what I did at Saks in Chicago. They do not have samples to give away, nor are they authorized to decant...
  67. Re: Who are YOUR favorite fragrance reviewers on youtube?

    Fav reviewers: Galen (Aetherealist), Jo and Dan for how passionate they are (Wafts from the Loft), Dan for his unequaled brit sarcasm (MrSmelly), Juan for his spot-on descriptions (Hueleme Mucho),...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    And what would you suggest?
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Let us know how you like them! Same for the ELdO sample pack... you're in for some surprises with that one, but this is REAL creative perfumery.
  70. Re: Do some or even many fragrances have to age a little before reaching their peak?

    Agreed. And some also need more than a year or two to reach their "peak". That's why reform-panickers often think that a vintage bottle is better because of old formulation, while it's often just...
  71. [CONUS] Re: Swap: Aramis, Armaf, Jacomo, Lalique, Paco Rabanne, Vera Wang, Versace

    Why ditching The Dreamer since you like tobacco frags? I was thinking of getting one blind since me too I love tobacco, but it seems to be a polarizing frag, and it's hard to understand what it's...
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    Re: Real oud

    There's no secret, to get real oud, you have to get the big bucks outta the pocket. This list is basically what my suggestions would have been. I would suggest to go with
    Rania J - Oud Assam since...
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    Re: acqua di parma suggestion

    I meant commercially - not in scent obviously, it has nothing in common - since I spot osmanthus on the pyramid note of many fragrances recently. It seems to be the new "trend".
  74. Replies
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    Re: acqua di parma suggestion

    Osmanthus is the new oud.
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    The high-end lines of Armani, Dior, Guerlain, Chanel, AdP, Tom Ford and also Creed and MFK. Most of those are interesting but crowdpleasing scents.

    The suggestion of ELdO and Serge Lutens are...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Interesting add-ons!

    Eau Boisee is perfect for hot summer days
    Vetiver Extreme is as good as Vetiver, with a different twist - question of tastes, I alternate between both
    Not a huge fan of...
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Agreed!
  78. Replies
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    Re: Need suggestions for a purchase

    Welcome! Aside of The One (for which I don't care about), all are great options.

    Overall:
    1. Fahrenheit EDT
    2. Vetiver
    3. Habit Rouge EDP

    For office use:
    1. Vetiver (Spring)
    2. Habit Rouge...
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    Re: acqua di parma suggestion

    Of these two: Assoluta.

    Of the whole line: Intensa and the original.
  80. Re: Rank the best Maison Francis Kurkdjian fragrances

    From this house (wearable by a man) I like

    APOM homme (beautiful take on the neroli and cedar theme)
    Amyris homme (great amyris and iris fragrances, with a sweet tonka/chocolate backbone)
    Aqua...
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    Re: New niche fragrance brand

    Done. Should you need feedback on the questionnaire, do not hesitate to reach out!
  82. Re: Baldessarini by Hugo Boss Vs Baldessarini by Baldessarini

    Totally agreed. People are confused between formulations and aging. Aging can help a frag develop with air in the bottle, and that's why people think the old "formulation" is better, while the only...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    You brought up Turin. I consider citing Turin as a reference a troll-like behavior. Question of point of views, I guess.



    Ok. Question of taste, I guess.

    That said I'm not sure how my posts...
  84. Re: Best affordable amber fragrance for men under $100?

    Same here, I love Ambre 114, as opposed to Ambre Sultan. I tried several times to love it, but I find it too linear, no evolution, with an omnipresent crushing bay leaf. A pass for me, and a further...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    "Ruling" is exaggerated, but he wanted to reproduce the "parker model" with his guide. Reviewing has no influence on the consumer? Really? If so, BN and Fragrantica wouldn't exist, nor any youtube...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I think that Lutens acknowledged the limits of the "oriental and dramatic floral perfumes" exploration. From 1995 until 2005, Lutens released a masterpiece every other release. Thus it's difficult...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Turin is a failed chemist (after the publication of a few highly criticized scientific papers that he had to withdraw), who reconverted into perfume critics. I've read just enough of his reviews to...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    What are we looking for? A Lutens that keeps copying himself, with a guarantee of good result but that may become boring after a while (i.e. Le Participe Passe and L'Innomable, great fragrances imo,...
  89. Re: Best affordable amber fragrance for men under $100?

    Totally agreed. Usually I'm a big fan of Serge Lutens, but not a fan of Ambre Sultan either.
  90. Re: You are being forced to cut down to five scents / five occasions

    No one condescend "designer fragrances". Many seasoned basenoters have smelt a lot of frags, and just condescend with any average smelling frags (compared to the many gems they have smelt), whatever...
  91. Re: You are being forced to cut down to five scents / five occasions

    "You are what you smell "
  92. Re: You are being forced to cut down to five scents / five occasions

    Runners-up in parenthesis

    1. Your work / office scent: Lutens Gris Clair (Penhaligon's Sartorial)

    2. Your formal scent: Roja Musk Aoud (Zegna Indonesian Oud)

    3. Your after the gym scent:...
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    Sticky: Re: The beginners guide to Creed Aventus

    This. In marketing they are commonly called the HENRYs: High Earners Not Rich Yet.


    As for the niche status of Creed, it depends what you mean by "niche". If you mean it as a synonymous of...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    Nice story :)
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    Re: Your Top 5 Tom Ford Fragrances ?

    That's the main issue I have with TF: their scents, despite their good quality (for the majority), are terribly overpriced. One can have much better for the price they ask. Like you said, one can buy...
  96. Re: The official Jeremy Fragrance fragrance thread

    The following year, we'll add "Cologne" to the name, dilute the frag, double the price. Apparently that strategy works well too
  97. Replies
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    I've read that too. The usual debate on who "made" the fragrance... The artistic director, which expresses what he wants and approve the products, or the perfumer who make the formulas to be tested...
  98. Re: The official Jeremy Fragrance fragrance thread

    By Floor One.
  99. Re: Dunhill Launches Four Mens Scents in Signature Collection!

    As much as I had good encounters with Dunhill until now, I will wait until these hit discounters. Indeed, I was pleasantly surprised with the Icon line fragrances, that I got for less than ~$50 each,...
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    Re: What is the best TOM FORD fragrance?

    I guess we have similar tastes, as Vert d'Encens is in my top 5 together with NA (see other TF thread)
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000