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  1. Replies

    Re: Women's Dior Circa 1980

    I want to share my thoughts on two of the vintage Diors, Diorling and Diorama.

    Diorling is a classic leather chypre, and I'd agree with the poster who says it's a tamed Bandit. It is definitely...
  2. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Eau du Coq

    That's quite an old bottle. I don't recommend buying it. The Guerlain Eaux don't hold up all that well because they're simple colognes. I once bought an Eau du Coq that was only about 15 years old...
  3. Re: MON Guerlain. The new pillar fragrance for 2017

    The bottle looks pretty nice. The fragrance sounds like another caramel gourmand for fourteen year olds. It's depressing to see Guerlain chasing mediocrity so eagerly.
  4. Replies

    Re: William Fraysse is new Caron nose!

    William Fraysse is the son of Richard Fraysse, Caron's in-house perfumer. Richard Fraysse has been flailing around since 1998, during which time he released absolutely nothing of interest, but did...
  5. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    It's not sweet if you compare it to an obviously sweet fragrance, but compared to the EdT it's sweet because fo the attenuation of the earthy-smoky accord. I agree with you that it has some new...
  6. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    I went in to the Chanel boutique to try on the new Sycomore EdP.

    I'm disappointed. They smell the same for the first five minutes of topnotes, but then the smokiness, the campfire note vanishes...
  7. Re: 2016 Mitsouko Pure Parfum (Post-Production Halt)

    where are you finding sealed vintage parfum for Mitsouko? It's always so expensive, at least on ebay.
  8. Replies

    Re: Best Iris scent

    I'm surprised no one has mentioned Chanel 28 La Pausa. It's a woody iris, very natural smelling, and on me surprisingly long lasting.
  9. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Jicky - New packaging!

    This is a very good point. Vintage bottles have aged and the balance of the notes changed, so it's not exactly the same as comparing them to a fresh bottle, though of course some ingredients are now...
  10. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    I have both, and I actually do prefer La Pausa. It is certainly transparent and sheer, but I wouldn't say longevity is poor. It settles down but every now and again I'll get a whiff of it,...
  11. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    It will be interesting to see how the EdP version of 28 La Pausa fares. The EdT is wonderful, my very favorite iris.
  12. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    I"ll bet the price did.
  13. Replies

    Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel EDPs

    What about the Eau de Cologne? I don't see how they can do that as an EdP, since it's basically a classic, old-fashioned, citrus-based cologne. Amping it up to give it an EdP's longevity would almost...
  14. Re: NEW: Tom Ford Private Blend Vert de Fleur (and three others)

    I found 2012's Ombre de Hyacinthe intensely green, but it was discontinued rapidly, so it's nice to have some new offerings. I'm surprised, since it seems that green fragrances don't tend to sell...
  15. Replies

    Re: Dune - still nothing like it

    BTW, I have to say that Dune is one of the only pre-2000 perfumes that Dior has not messed with. As posters have noted, it's been tweaked a bit over the years, but is still very close to the...
  16. Replies

    Re: Dune - still nothing like it

    Definitely it's not worth it-- the EdT is cheaper and lovelier.
  17. Re: "What house do you feel cares most/listens most to their customers? "

    Interesting thread. I tend to differentiate between my experience with a "house" (i.e., contacting via e-mail, web order) and the sales associates at retail locations.

    I've heard from many people...
  18. Replies

    Re: Dune - still nothing like it

    I have a bottle of the original parfum-- this huge, 1 ounce crystal bottle. It's gorgeous. The formulation is very similar to the EdT, although I agree with the differences noted by an earlier...
  19. Replies

    Re: I am starting a new blog

    Yes-- I think what bothers Mr. Turin (and me) is that the high-quality stuff is overpriced and only sold at select stores. You used to be able to count on the big brands to launch mainstream...
  20. Re: Are most vintage, original scents in their final availability phase?

    One thing that no one is mentioning is that certain fragrances were more popular, produced in larger quantities, and sold over a longer period of time than others were. This does affect availability...
  21. Re: Suggest me a classic-style chypre that is easy to wear

    The original Diorama is spectacular: midway between Mitsouko and Femme, with orange peel standing in for the peaches in Mitsouko and the plum in Femme. Do not buy the current formulation, which is an...
  22. Re: Hermes cologne series, and other (eau de) colognes.....

    I have them all. I love the original Eau d'Orange Verte. The Eau de Gentiana Blanche has an interesting, transparent woody effect. I like the Narcisse Bleue also, which is more floral.

  23. Replies

    Re: Knowing: A Chypre without Moss!

    But what can they do with all the stupid regulations coming out of IFRA and the EU? Nothing smells the way it used to.
  24. Replies

    Re: New GUERLAIN, Promenade des Anglais

    M. Guerlain has confirmed, it's Figue-Iris. Didn't get a rave from Luca Turin when it was first an Aqua Allegoria, and they've undoubtedly jacked up the price considerably.
  25. Re: Luca Turin's Latest Reviews: December 30, 2015

    Since we have him on this thread, I wanted to ask Mr. Turin a question. I came across an intact, sealed bottle of a long-gone fragrance at an estate sale (D'Orsay's "Elégance.) I like it very much...
  26. Re: Luca Turin's Latest Reviews: December 30, 2015

    I'd have to agree. Aliage and Azurée still smell fantastic, which is borderline miraculous given the accelerating pace of (lousy) reformulations. I wonder what it is about Lauder that makes that firm...
  27. Re: Luca Turin's Latest Reviews: December 30, 2015

    Mr. Turin's review of Marc Jacobs' "Decadence" made me howl with laughter. I had the unfortunate experience of being "introduced" to it at Sephora last weekend. I braced myself after seeing the green...
  28. Re: Got a message from another Ebay seller threatening to report me for decants

    Are decants not permitted by Ebay policy? You'd think a site that's slowly fading into irrelevance would welcome listings as long as they are completely honest and open about what the product is on...
  29. Re: Let's Discuss Some Good Designer/ "Affordable" Florals for Men.....

    I'm trying to think of fragrances that have a pronounced floral core to them and work on men, rather than chypres or woody fragrances that have a floral element. Most chypres work really well on men,...
  30. Replies

    Re: Estee Lauder Azuree Reformulated?

    They probably tweaked the formulas, but true to Estee Lauder, they probably did so fairly carefully and respectfully. The fact that Private Collection still smells very close to the 1973 original is...
  31. Replies

    Re: Pretentious - Expensive -- Rubbish

    Bond no. 9, with the possible exceptions of Chinatown and Fire Island. They might be able to justify the prices if all of them were that good, but the vast majority of their fragrances are pretty...
  32. Replies

    Re: DIORLING, by Christian Dior

    The original Diorling is exactly as Cacio described it, a beautiful, smooth, leather chypre, probably closest to Cabochard but more polished and gleaming. (I love Cabochard, but it's supposed to be a...
  33. Re: Serge Lutens adds 5 new scents to luxury line

    These prices are just too high and are clearly intended for the über-nouveaux-riches who don't know any better but to buy the most expensive toy. I mean, Jean Patou's Joy is practically a bargain in...
  34. Replies

    Re: Fragrances spotted in movies!

    I think it was in the middle of the film, when they're worrying about the daughter's upcoming marriage. It's been a couple of years now so I can't quite remember.
  35. Replies

    Re: 6 new scents from Bvlgari - La Gemme

    Uggh, the bottles look so cheap and chintzy!
  36. Re: New Luca Turin reviews: Hermès, Lush/Gorilla

    I didn't think the Jardin was that bad. I would have given it 3 stars. To be sure, it's pedestrian and overpriced, but it doesn't smell horrible. I admit I'm very fond of jasmine. I guess part of...
  37. Replies

    Re: Fragrances spotted in movies!

    In one scene of Guess Who's Coming to Dinner, Katharine Hepburn opens a medicine chest (I think; or they might have been on her vanity) and there are several bottles of vintage Dior EdTs with the...
  38. Replies

    Re: Male Female monsters, whats yours?

    Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle, which I absolutely loathe. It goes on forever.
    Clinique Aromatics Elixir. The original is even stronger than the parfum released as "perfumer's reserve" in 2011.
  39. Re: New Luca Turin reviews: Dior, Elie Saab, Guerlain

    Couldn't have said it better. I have learned so much from reading Turin's work. He'll never know how much he's taught me.
  40. Re: New Luca Turin reviews: Dior, Elie Saab, Guerlain

    The sugar obsession isn't just a US phenomenon, or else Lancôme's sugary La Vie est Belle wouldn't be France's top bestseller. I don't find that the average European customer's level of taste is...
  41. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Estée Lauder has quietly discontinued Private Collection Jasmine White Moss, a very nice green "new" chypre. Get it while stocks last.
  42. Re: New fragrance from Christian Dior, La Collection Privée - Coming May 2015

    I'm surprised by the amount of love François Demachy, Dior's in-house perfumer, is getting here. (Full disclosure: I haven't tried any of the Dior Collection privée fragrances, which many of you are...
  43. Re: Remember the violet candies wrapped in purple tinfoil?

    I tried Misia and it starts off with an overwhelming Parma violets accord. Then it settles into that plush, luxurious iris that Chanel insists on putting in every fragrance. It's nice, but violets,...
  44. Replies

    Re: Help with Dating a Chanel no 19

    While we're on the topic of chanel no 19: something I've always wondered about has been the color of the juice. Was it always tinted a greenish color, even in the 1970s? I thought that the green was...
  45. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    L'Artisan has been quietly discontinuing:

    Vanille Absolument
    Coeur de Vetiver Sacré
    Fleur de Liane
  46. Replies

    Re: "Green" scents

    People are listing a lot of fragrances I'm surprised to see described as "green." Particularly the vetivers (and Sycomore, Encre Noire): to me, Vetiver is a rooty, woody smell (Michael Edwards puts...
  47. Re: L'Homme Ideal by Guerlain - Eau De Cologne?!?!

    My feeling is that if Guerlain has to put out some mass-market scents so they can support higher-quality but less-well-selling lines, that's fine with me. For a sweet floral, LPRN isn't bad, and for...
  48. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    Oops! Paul P, you're right. I forgot the thread was for critically acclaimed flops, not deserved flops. Yes, Mahora also failed because by all accounts it smells putrid.
  49. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    Oh here's one: Truth by Calvin Klein (2000). Apparently this is one of the only good recent CK's (the women's version), but it didn't sell well and I think it's been axed.
  50. Re: Critically acclaimed but a commercial failure?

    Mahora is an interesting case. It was a disaster when it launched in 2000. But ever since its rerelease into the Parisiennes line as "Mayotte" in 2005, it's been a steady seller. One Guerlain...
  51. Replies

    Re: A spooky, sensual forest perfume?

    Ormonde Man is good, but I'd actually recommend Ormonde Woman, which in spite of the name is totally unisex and has a dark, mysterious black hemlock note.
  52. Re: Most unique greens. I'm talking greens that leave you speechless!

    Estee Lauder's Aliage is a great unisex green classic, with a bitter galbanum opening.
  53. Replies

    Re: Estee Lauder acquires Frederic Malle

    To be honest, I think people are getting unnecessarily freaked out. EL has a much better track record with respect to its various brands than the vast majority of conglomerates out there (I'd be a...
  54. Replies

    Re: 2014 Caron discontinuations?

    Hi Hednic, so far, so good when it comes to the men's line: Yatagan, 3e homme, Pour un Homme, and Impact (formerly Impact pour un Homme) all seem present and accounted for. They're also all still...
  55. Re: "accessories for fragrances" brand atomizers?

    I also have to agree: I've ordered from them many times. Everything is carefully packaged, the owners throw in droppers and funnels for free, and they even refund you the extra postage if the package...
  56. Replies

    2014 Caron discontinuations?

    I have a subscription to Michael Edwards' fragrance database--the one that lets you sort by fragrance house, year, nose, and also keeps notes on discontinuations. I logged on last night and was...
  57. Re: Chanel no 5 Eau Premiere - Sensational Barbershop Vibe !!

    I love this one: it has a lot of orange and lemon peel, with nice aldehydic woods.

    David, this one was slightly reformulated (at the time that Chanel repackaged it from the tall, slim bottle to...
  58. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Dior's Diorama, the rereleased EdT in the "Créations de Monsieur Dior" series launched a few years ago, has been discontinued. I wrote Dior's French customer service an e-mail, and they confirmed...
  59. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Tom Ford has been merciless at discontinuing Private Blend scents that don't sell. In 2009 the company introduced four "White Musk" fragrances (Jasmine Musk, Musk Pure, Urban Musk, and White Suede),...
  60. Replies

    Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    I find Caron frustrating because almost everyone agrees that most of the current forumulations are pretty disastrous. Sugandaraja has given some helpful suggestions; does anyone else have suggestions...
  61. Re: Now you can eat Estée Lauder Private Collection

    Cacio, the banana cake flanker is PC Amber Ylang-Ylang, which I've heard is pretty overpowering. It's still available, as far as I know. The other two flankers (PC Jasmine White Moss and PC Tuberose...
  62. Replies

    Re: Chanel No 19 Discontinued??

    It's not discontinued, but its availability has been severely curtailed in the USA. Regular Chanel no 19 EdP is not typically sold at most stores in the USA (except some flagship department stores,...
  63. Re: Discontinued Fragrances Source/Database Sorted by Year Intro and Year Discontinued???

    I've never seen a database that gives discontinuation dates, because companies generally don't like to advertise when something is taken out of production.
  64. Replies

    Re: Are they discontinued????

    I'm almost certain that Vol de Nuit, Chamade, ALO and Jicky have not been discontinued. Vol and ALO are in pretty limited distribution, though.

    Jardins de Bagatelle is another story: the EdT has...
  65. Re: What cheap fragrance generated more compliments when you wore during all day

    I have to second this: I get more compliments on Cabaret than any other fragrance I own. It is sophisticated, fresh, and easy to wear, perhaps better on men than on women. It's also ridiculously...
  66. Replies

    Re: Chamade - current formulations

    With Chamade, there are two algorithms to take into account: formula and version (EdT, EdP, Extrait). Regarding formula, I'm told that Chamade went through a bare patch along with Mitsouko between...
  67. Replies

    Re: Jean Patou: 2 new rereleases in 2014!

    More Patou news:

    2014 re-releases are, as announced, Deux-Amours (Amour-Amour), Que Sais-Je, and Adieu Sagesse.

    I'm a lot more excited about the 2015 re-releases:

    L'Heure Attendue (1946), a...
  68. Replies

    Re: NEW: Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

    PI L'Eau was discontinued quietly sometime last year. M. Guerlain has confirmed that the entire line was axed this year, so if you like PI, now's the time to stock up while existing stock lasts.
  69. Replies

    Re: NEW: Guerlain Shalimar Souffle de Parfum

    OMG Ken Cosgrove, this is exactly how I feel. I'm convinced Shalimar Parfum Initial would have done better had it not been labeled Shalimar. On the other hand, M. Guerlain says that his contacts at...
  70. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    More Guerlain discontinuations:

    Shalimar Parfum Initial (all versions and flankers)
    The "Une ville, un parfum" collection:
    New York
  71. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Les Eaux

    Du Coq is my favorite: as the other posters noted, it has lavender and some herbal notes that help give it the edge. Cologne du Parfumeur has orange blossom and white musks, but it's significantly...
  72. Replies

    Re: Chanel Eau Premiere

    I tried on the stuff in the "new" bottle (the one that looks like the classic no. 5 EdP bottle) over the weekend. If there's been a formula change, it is, thankfully, minimal. This still smells as...
  73. Replies

    Re: Vintage vs modern Diorama

    Hi Cacio. I absolutely love Diorama: it's one of my favorites. Truth be told, I think I like it better than either Femme or Mitsouko. It's less cerebral than Mitsouko but sunnier and airier than...
  74. Re: Please compare Vintage and modern Caron Bellodgia

    Hi Cacio, thanks for your input. It could be I just prefer the spicy facets of carnation to the creamy ones.
  75. Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection - Vacances has arrived

    Lili, if you weren't in Australia, I'd ship you an ounce of Moment Suprême. I have 500 ml of the parfum!
  76. Re: Please compare Vintage and modern Caron Bellodgia

    My bottle of Bellodgia--I don't know the age--does not smell at all to me like carnation. It's creamy and floral, but doesn't have the spicy facet that I associate with that flower.
  77. Replies

    Re: Vintage vs modern Diorama

    Hi Lili and Cacio, I have a vintage bottle of the parfum and the EdT. The fruity, orange-peel note is a LOT more pronounced in the parfum, which smells like an intermediary between the plum of Femme...
  78. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Guerlain discontinuations, 2013–4:

    Jardins de Bagatelle, EdT (EdP remains available)
    L'Instant magic
    Guerlain Homme, l'Eau
    Shalimar Parfum Initial, l'Eau
    Idylle Eau Sublime
    Sous le Vent
  79. Replies

    Re: Jean Patou: 2 new rereleases in 2014!

    Fragrantica has a story on this today. It looks like a third re-release will be 1925's Adieu Sagesse, a floral with a gardenia accent.
  80. Replies

    Jean Patou: 2 new rereleases in 2014!

    Hi all,

    Last year Patou rereleased three classics: Patou pour Homme, Eau de Patou, and Chaldée. I'm delighted to announce that it looks like they will continue to do so in 2014. I have a...
  81. Replies

    Re: I'm a Masculine Man Wearing Shalimar

    Guerlain's scents are mostly unisex. There are exceptions (Champs-Elysées) but for the most part a guy can pull off almost all of the classics.

    One of the ones that I find works really well on me...
  82. Replies

    Re: Favorite Animalic Scents

    Cacio mentioned the two vintages that I found really, really dirty. Shocking is a sweet leather: it has a pronounced honey note but it smells, (ahem), I'm told, like a woman's dirty knickers. People...
  83. Re: "Unisex" - SA's having serious gender issues

    I'd like to follow up on the issue of the Male/Female fragrance boards on Basenotes, which I find increasingly passé and annoying. Other sites don't do this. Most new niche offerings are marketed as...
  84. Replies

    Re: Best Green fragrances?

    Estee Lauder Aliage-
    Robert Piguet Futur

    both suitable for unisex wear
  85. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Hi David, yes, as part of the 2013 repackaging, the following have been discontinued as EdTs and are only available in EdCs. I like colognes, but they simply have no lasting power at all:

  86. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Oh yes, and Annick Goutal has been discontinuing mercilessly since they repackaged everything in 2013:

    Eau de Camille
    Myrrhe Ardente
    Le Mimosa
    Mon parfum Chérie
  87. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Jean Patou has also discontinued a bunch of fragrances ever since PG&E sold it. They're bringing back some classics but the following have been axed:

    Sira des Indes
  88. Sticky: Re: Recently Discontinued/ Due To Be Discontinued Fragrances......???

    Re: Balmain, according to Michael Edwards' database (to which I have a subscription), Miss Balmain and Jolie Madame have both been discontinued. Ivoire is still around, but it went through a major...
  89. Re: Midnight Poison/ Dior Addict Has Been Discontinued

    Dior has the reformulation bug BAD. Since François Demachy became the in-house nose, he has reformuated virtually the entire catalogue. Dior Addict was reformulated in 2012, so I doubt that they'll...
  90. Re: Deal-breaker notes, What are your least favorite perfume notes?

    Here's my list of dislikes:

    Gourmands in the Angel style: with caramel and chocolate notes (usually on a patchouli-base)

    Fruit like berries, nectarines, strawberry in the fruity floral style
  91. Replies

    Re: Three New Chanel Exclusifs Extraits

    I agree with Sasuke. What a snore-fest. I haven't smelled 1932, but Beige was totally pedestrian. Jersey has some fans on here, but I thought it was awful: lavender cough-syrup.
  92. Replies

    Re: Most Flankers spawned by one fragrance

    For me, the flanker award goes to parfums Grès Cabotine and to Dior's J'Adore and MIss Dior. They both have well over 15 flankers. J'adore is even more confusing becuase the original fragrance has...
  93. Re: Fragrance families: which method of categorizing do you prefer and why?

    In the past, I've been mistrustful of perfume categories. I'm glad that that the French Society of Perfumers' system works for Natural Juice, but I just gave up: it's too complicated and certain...
  94. Replies

    Re: Hermessence Longevity?

    I agree with Janjanjan. I appreciate the quality, but these are so expensive that they aren't worth it for me. Actually I feel the same way about most of the Chanel exclusifs as well: two of my...
  95. Re: What is Parfum de Toilette in terms of concentration?

    Hi Hedonic, there was a period in the 1980s when a bunch of perfume houses used this term. Guerlain most famously: it's only in the late 1990s that Guerlain bowed to the general trend and relabeled...
  96. Replies

    Serge Lutens: Confusion about lines/labels

    I'm completely confused by Serge Lutens.

    I know the big distinction is the export line in the rectangular bottles v. the exclusive lines in the bell jars. But it's been blurred by the fact that...
  97. Replies

    Re: Three New Chanel Exclusifs Extraits

    Hi Horns, no, it hasn't been discontinued, but it's been severely restricted. The parfum is no longer available for sale in the US (at least, nowhere I've been able to find it, including the Saks in...
  98. Replies

    Re: Three New Chanel Exclusifs Extraits

    As often happens, Cacio stole the words right out of my mouth. I suspect this is going to be informed mainly by what sells, which is why I suspect that the subpar Beige will be among the three.
  99. Replies

    Re: New Fragrance: Chanel Les Exclusifs 1932

    HI Cacio and graphite, sorry I came across hating on Jersey. I'm sure it is lovely on the two of you. It just was one of those things that REALLY wasn't my style!
  100. Re: Jean Patou Ma Collection - Vacances has arrived

    LiliB, where did you get the Vacances extrait? Do you have 11 out of the 12 "ma collection" bottles? I only have an ounce of "Cocktail" and a half-empty bottle of "Colony." My Colony's topnotes are...
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