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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I can only speak with certainty about methyl ionone alpha. I am 100% confident that it is what the thread starter is looking for.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Scroll down and have a look at the ingredients for this Lancome lipstick. There you will see alpha-isomethyl ionone, one of the main ingredients in Paul's formula. Apparently, this is a "retro"...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I wish I had seen this thread sooner. I have actually spent a lot of time looking for the iris note I believe you are looking for. After searching for a long time, a very sharp blogger suggested...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Try this book. If you can only get one, get this. It's probably the closest thing to a comprehensive introduction: http://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Perfumery-Tony-Curtis/dp/096087528X

    This one...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Givaudan makes a synthetic bergamot that is a lot cheaper than the real thing. I've tried it and it's pretty good: http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-5935-bergamot-g-fragrance.aspx

    As people...
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    the waxiest fragrances

    I love anything that smells waxy. What are the waxiest fragrances?
  7. Re: Guerlain Santal Royal - Harrods Exclusive + other news

    Did you get it at Tysons Galleria?
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    Re: Iris, Orris, & Orris Root?

    I have recently been trying to find the chemical responsible for the lipstick note in iris fragrances. Now I'm pretty sure it's methyl ionone alpha. It's definitely interesting and worth trying.
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Cardamom has a lot of eucalyptol in it, and whenever I use it, it seems to give the top notes lift. I don't know if lift is the right word, but I think you know what I mean. I think the eucalyptol...
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Estragole (methyl chavicol) isn't mentioned above. It's the main constituent of tarragon oil. I just got it in the mail, and now I wonder what else I'm missing.

    I must say I've been struggling...
  11. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    That's exactly what my orris looks like now; you could describe it as a waxy slush. I suppose that's what we have to put up with if we want to use that material. Now I see what all the hype is about.
  12. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    Thanks, Paul. I think I'll just have to dilute it further. I really don't like the idea of heating it every time I want to use some. I'm already worried I scorched it the first time.
  13. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    I just warmed some iris CO2 and diluted to 50% in ethanol, but it turned solid again as soon as it cooled. Is that normal? I realize that there might not be a clear answer to this, but how much heat...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Olibanum Resinoid - I burn a lot of incense. One day a friend told me that there are incense perfumes, which is how my journey into perfumery started.

    Dorinia SA E - Waxy and great all on its own....
  15. Thread: Orris root

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Orris root

    Is orris tincture usually pretty inexpensive? This is the first time I've seen it for sale, and it is quite affordable:
    ...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I recently read in a textbook that musk ketone in combination with benzyl salicylate creates a powdery effect. I have not personally tried it, however.
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    I definitely see what you mean there. Studies like that are bad for the art of perfumery when they needlessly lead to the reformulation and discontinuation of fragrances, and now I regret posting it....
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    IFF's space rose

    I was browsing the internet and found a chromatogram for "space rose" oil, so I wondered what that was. Apparently, IFF had NASA fly a rose plant into space. They found that the space rose had a...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Well, I wasn't fear mongering, but I guess it came across that way. It was simply a matter of finding that study (link provided) interesting and wanting to share it with the Basenotes community....
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    The effect of cardamom on a composition

    Does anyone find that cardamom does more to a composition than merely add a cardamom top note? For example, it seems to me that its effect makes the composition more harmonious and integrated. I...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Yeah, don't wear that stuff on the beach.
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    Interesting sensitizer table

    The table shows some common sensitizers and whether or not various popular perfumes have them. Refer to this link for further information:
    ...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I'm not sure if this has been posted anywhere on Basenotes yet, but it contains the ingredients of many famous perfumes: http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1vakd/NotSoSexyTheHealthRi/resources/30.htm
  24. Thread: Dorinia SA

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Dorinia SA

    Does anyone have any idea what's in SA E? Maybe just a guess? It smells great.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Just glancing at the base notes, it seems as if all of them are known for being powdery:

    05 - Opoponax - yes
    03 - C - cumarin ?
    01 - V - vanilla - ?
    05 - MK - musk ketone

    I just blended...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Just glancing at the base notes, it seems as if all of them are known for being powdery:

    05 - Opoponax - yes
    03 - C - cumarin ?
    01 - V - vanilla - ?
    05 - MK - musk ketone
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I think the tonka tincture is part of why you aren't getting enough of a powdery effect. How much coumarin is in it? Also, are you using straight vanillin or an absolute?

    I remember blending...
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    Re: outdoing the emperor

    They were made that way to fit in his boot.

    Splashing on more than one bottle a day is the secret to making a citrus fragrance last. I think that's the only explanation for his using so much.
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    outdoing the emperor

    Napoleon Bonaparte went through 50 bottles of eau de cologne a month. Has anyone here on Basenotes gone through that much before?
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Great info! The emperor clearly understood the secret to making a citrus fragrance last all day: carry the bottle around and pour it on at regular intervals. 50 bottles a month is really admirable. I...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Now that I think about it, Napoleon's cologne would likely have been a typical eau de cologne of his day, and he probably had many suppliers. Perhaps he had access to higher quality ingredients than...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Thank you, Mumsy. Basically, as far as I know, the formula that was actually discovered came from St. Helena (found among the belongings of one of his servants). However, that one would have been...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Good idea. I could use a nice eau de cologne. You know, while we're on the subject, has anyone read about Napoleon's eau de cologne? They apparently found the recipe, and I would expect something...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    That's interesting.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    A third Chanel No 5 formula. I recently read in Perfumery: Practice and Principles that aldehydes make up 1% of Chanel No 5, which is what I see here in this formula. In the knockoff posted above,...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Here's a formula for the famous Russian cologne "Troynoy" by Novaya Zarya: I don't know if it's the real thing or not; in fact, it probably isn't. Anyway, it looks like a typical eau de cologne. When...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    No prob, Mumsy. I think coumarin and musk ketone are the main powdery materials in that recipe, so perhaps you could add more of those after a few days if it still isn't powdery enough. Rose in...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Considering the high percentages of rosewood, lavender, and bergamot, the intro should be completely dominated by linalool. It makes up roughly 16% of the concentrate (depending on the type of...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    What does the L.G. stand for? Givaudan sold a product called Opoponax LG 55, which was a resinoid replacer.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I think you're right about its being a collection of recreations. The column on the right says "Suggestions for Jicky by Carles." Someone apparently consulted a certain Carles. Could it be the famous...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I haven't tried it. I just found it this morning.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Jicky formula?

    http://www.mbenjaminkatzfinebooksraremanuscripts.com/shop_image/product/0001929_d93c959c97a721ec1ef3d2991323accb.jpg
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    The other secret is having the patience to wait a week or two after mixing. All too often, I smell it right after mixing and dismiss it as a complete failure. Either that or I start adding more oils...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Yes, I have to say that even with the help of GC/MS, it still takes a lot of skill and experience to copy a perfume. I have been working on a few for the last several months, and even though I know...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    While we're on the topic, I should note that the formulas from the old Perfumer's Apprentice site, while not exactly the same, are probably closest to the real thing. Some formulas on the two Russian...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    They appear to be included with the bottle now. I could not find any on the site.

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0OBGXBcO__Q/UEy8b1dZFSI/AAAAAAAAB88/NtaHlqviuYY/s1600/prelude.jpg
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Also, this Russian site seems to have compiled formulas from several other sites (including the Russian site mentioned above). Scroll down and you will see a list in Latin script....
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    A Perfumer's Apprentice Shalimar re-creation:

    30 Lemon
    175 Bergamot
    35 Tarragon 10%
    5 Neroli
    20 coriander
    25 Clary Sage 10%
    20 Linalool
    40 Lavender
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    Re: all-around enhancers

    Thanks for all the replies. What originally got me thinking about this was the thread on the Grojsman accord. Also, there's the Guerlinade, which is supposedly added to all of their perfumes (I doubt...
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    Re: all-around enhancers

    When I say "all-around enhancer" I mean that you can indiscriminately add the chemical or oil to any perfume and make it better. Hedione is probably the best example of such a chemical. Obviously,...
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    all-around enhancers

    Throughout basenotes and perfumery textbooks, I have often read that such and such a raw material will enhance nearly any perfume. The following are some of the more common ones mentioned:

    Hedione...
  52. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    I've been looking into this matter over the last few months, and I still have a lot to learn. I've found that two important factors are the type of rose (Bulgarian, Turkish, etc.) you wish to imitate...
  53. What fragrance would German ambient artist Thomas Köner wear?

    I have enjoyed Thomas Köner's music for a while now, and I wonder what fragrance he would wear. It would have to be cold.
  54. Thread: Opoponax

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Opoponax

    I had some of the absolute from Hermitage, and I must say that it's one of my favorite materials. It smells like toffee and toast, and when diluted it turns the solution red. Now I wonder if...
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    Re: Note Sensitivity: Woody Ambers

    My girlfriend is definitely sensitive to woody-amber notes. She describes some of them as smelling "as strong as bleach," although in an odor intensity sense, not odor quality. I accidentally got...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I recently heard someone complaining that copycat fragrances "smell like the real thing, but they don't last as long." This was an ordinary consumer, not a perfumer. This leads me to believe that...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I'm an advocate of studying GC tests for educational purposes. Aspiring musicians study symphonies, so why shouldn't we do the same thing? I can therefore see some justification in trying to...
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Do they have an address?
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Well then I guess someone will have to send them some samples.
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    Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    I have been a reader and fan of Perfumes: The A-Z Guide for a couple of years now, and I have never understood the absence of the CdG incense series. Now obviously, certain perfumes had to be cut...
  61. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    In a way, this reminds me of the modern tendency to use extremely large amounts of Iso E Super in certain perfumes (in its role as a blender). Both are easily dominated by other notes, yet they bring...
  62. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thank you for the link. Interesting reading.
  63. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thanks for the answer. When I have these questions, I usually just study demo formulas and experiment, but ambergris is a bit more mysterious (and expensive), so I wanted to hear some opinions....
  64. Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    I've had some ambergris tincture from Hermitage for a while (2%), but I'm not sure how much to use. Although it must vary from perfume to perfume, what would a typical amount be?
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I think that would have to depend on the particular absolute (whether its consumption is safe). If I'm not mistaken, clove bud absolute (which contains eugenol) can cause liver damage, organic or...
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    Re: fragrance DIY in dreams

    I had elderflower and rose lemonade from England the other day. It was my first floral beverage. I guess those aren't very common over here.

    Thanks for sharing, everyone!
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I don't think anyone here would be comfortable telling you to move forward with the project. For one thing, we aren't even talking about food; while I might have something to say about flavoring your...
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    fragrance DIY in dreams

    Has anyone else had dreams about perfuming? In my dream last night I was smelling cyclocitral out of the bottle and thinking that it was exactly what my blend needed but that it was toxic.
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    Yes, the Tauer fragrance. I haven't tried using rose oxide yet, but I know it's a staple in rose bases. I've been relying on rose absolute. The GC also shows methyl eugenol (from Turkish rose), but...
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    Good point there. Nothing smells more like cleaning agents than Citral and alpha-Terpineol, yet they're both used in fine fragrance all the time. I also read in a textbook (An Introduction to...
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    Re: Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    I've been re-creating a fragrance that contains it (Incense Rose) as an educational exercise. It's my favorite fragrance, but it's also very complex and nearly impossible to copy. You're definitely...
  72. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I was reading on Chris B's blog about the cyclic trimerization of aliphatic aldehydes. Would these trimers register on a GC test?
  73. Thread: Hedione

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Hedione

    You definitely have to smell it in a blend to experience its effects. Please report back after experimenting. You could even try the same experiment with just some bergamot or limonene. Perhaps 5...
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    Terpinolene in fine fragrance?

    I recently acquired some Terpinolene 90. Personally, I like its effects, but I noticed that the demo formulas online are intended for use in all-purpose cleaner and dishwashing liquid...
  75. Thread: Hedione

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Hedione

    I've been recreating Virgin Island Water, which is roughly 20% Hedione. I must say that nothing could replace it; in fact, you could take away the bergamot or lime and still have a decent fragrance,...
  76. Re: GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    Thanks a lot for your reply, David. It helps confirm some of my suspicions about the issue of volatility when trying to detect some of these oxidation and polymerization products.
  77. GC tests and the oxidation and polymerization products of fatty aldehydes

    I am wondering what fatty aldehydes such as C-9, C-10, C-11, C-12 MNA, etc., become when they undergo oxidation. Having researched the matter for a while, I have decided to turn to basenotes for...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    What type of fragrance might this accord serve as a starting point for? Making the accord itself is easy enough, but some readers (and I am among them) might not know what to use it for. I see that...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Interesting thread. Thanks, everyone.
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    Yes, but they promptly did their utmost to rectify the situation, and now I am satisfied. All of my dealings with them have been positive.
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    Re: Question about PA Key Accords

    First of all, it says on the PA site that the key accords are Givaudan practice exercises. You can see what's in them, so they are pedagogically useful to people like us who are learning to make...
  82. Re: Fragrance Oils = synthetics. So why variances in quality???

    I'm still a beginner like you, but I'll do my best to answer:

    For one thing, fragrance oils are blends of aroma chemicals, and natural materials such as essential oils can also be present. Since...
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    Yes. Also specialty bases and individual oils.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Bacdanol smells great and arguably doesn't need any rounding. I'm a Bacdanol man now. However, if you want something that packs a lot of punch, you'll need to go with the other molecules.
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    All I have to say here is that if you'd like to recreate a fragrance via GC, don't have a Lucky Scent sample tested. I made that mistake recently. It included the following:

    lilial diethyl acetal...
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    Re: Anosmic to sandalwood recreations

    Is Santaliff supposed to smell urinous? Mine certainly does. The same sort of urinous note sometimes encountered in cedarwood oils.
  87. Thread: Shelf lives

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Shelf lives

    I'm really glad you mentioned the point about p-cymene. I'm working from a GC test, and the samples I had tested were apparently really old; the top notes of this particular fragrance are bergamot...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    You could be right about that, but there are 2 black agar blends for sale on creatingperfume.com, the other being this one, which is the same one on PA. I therefore think Blackwood might be another...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    I am talking about this stuff: http://www.creatingperfume.com/blackwoodfirmenich.aspx

    Well, if nobody has tried it, I'll order a sample and report back.
  90. Cold, Powerful Iris Accords and Auxiliary Materials

    I'd like to start learning to work with iris. At the moment, I have some Alpha Irone, Irival and Orris Givco. I have used the Irone and the base as auxiliary materials in various blends, but now I'd...
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    Thanks to both of you for the information. I still haven't smelt the real thing yet, so I guess that's what I'll have to do. I just noticed another Firmenich oud base called Blackwood. I wonder if...
  92. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    Thank you. I appreciate that.
  93. Replies
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    Powerful Arabian oud note

    I have had Black Agar Givco and the Firmenich Oud Blend for a while now. Although they both smell great, I suppose I expected something more powerful. How do you get that really powerful Arabian oud...
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    Irone Economics

    Why aren't irones more readily available at a low price? Are production costs higher than average?
  95. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    Thanks, Paul. Looks like I'll have to go with one of them if iso-cyclocitral doesn't work. I see that SAFC offers a $40 sample.
  96. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    I was going to start a new thread on cyclocitral, but this thread seems to cover it. I'm working from a GC test that calls for beta-cyclocitral (CAS 432-25-7). Nobody seems to be selling it, so would...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    I can still smell it after 12 hours. I could smell it from the bottom of the stairs when I came in from work (my room is on the top floor). Just a drop on my dresser. Amazing stuff.
  98. Replies
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    My geosmin arrived from Hermitage this week. It's amazing. Even at 1% I merely have to put a drop of it on the surface of my dresser (no diffuser or anything needed) and it fills the room. It goes...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    Well, you all have alpha irone and geosmin. May they never go out of stock.
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    Re: frankincense accords

    Sold. Just placed an order.

    Once you all start carrying a red herring specialty base (for throwing off GC jockeys) I'll conclude that you have everything.
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