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  1. Re: Fendi by Fendi sadly discontinued but I found an identical frag!!

    The first time a knockoff actually smells good...

    cacio
  2. Re: The Wardrobe Quest -- Would You Give me Your Input and Help With Balance, Please?

    Some leathers are harsh or smoky, and some are very smooth, suedelike and soft. Softer like include Chanel Cuir de Russie, or, in mainstream, Bottega Veneta.
  3. Re: The Wardrobe Quest -- Would You Give me Your Input and Help With Balance, Please?

    Great list, and very extensive. That should give you a good idea of what you like and what you're drawn towards.

    For a second round, I noticed that you don't have any leather, so you could add a...
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    Re: Tauer Les Années 25 BIS

    I hope this one is a bit stronger than the original one, which I can barely smell. Still, if the previous one is an indication, I will be on the fence about buying blindly.
  5. Thread: RIP Barneys

    by cacio
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    Re: RIP Barneys

    I hadn't noticed that perfumes, which are never on sale, are not on sale either.
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    Re: Tom Ford - Top 5?

    In terms of representativeness, I'd say Tuscan Leather and Tobacco Vanille (respectively a modern leather and a sweet gourmand), plus oud wood (but I think there are better western ouds around-but...
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    Re: Fragrance destination

    If you happen to be in Paris, the Osmotheque (perfume repository in Versailles) has occasional lectures in English where one smells historic perfumes (it has many more lectures in French). But as a...
  8. Re: What's a no brainer, reach for cold weather scent

    I don't get much rose in Egoiste. It definitely lasts a lot, and projects well.
  9. Re: What's a no brainer, reach for cold weather scent

    For when it's really cold, I like Chanel Egoiste, warm and sandalwoody. Like Antaeus, it is however not stocked at Macys or Sephora types of stores.

    cacio
  10. Thread: RIP Barneys

    by cacio
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    Re: RIP Barneys

    I bought a few perfumes there, but more than perfume, I bought clothes during the seminannual sales.

    Just got an email talking about a big sale this weekend. but sadly I won't be there.
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    Re: Thoughts on the Dior "parfum" flankers

    I agree that parfum isn't the right word, they're different. But once one ignores the word parfum, I don't see the problem with making flankers. Added bonus, they usually keep the original version...
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    Re: Azemour lost more than its luster

    Sad to hear this-it was one of the few leftover citrus chypres. Oh well...
  13. Re: Top Ten Weak Fragrances You Wish Would Last Longer

    Tauer Les Annees 25 for me. Perhaps it's just my nose, but I can barely smell it after a short time.

    Starblind:
    more absurd sums than what a vintage parfum goes for?

    cacio
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    Re: Guerlain in Miami Beach or Manhattan?

    As Bavard was saying, Bergdorf Goodman used to have the largest counter in NY. In Miami beach, the only option are the biggies in Bal Harbour shopping mall dept stores (Neimans and Saks)-I don't know...
  15. Thread: HdP 1969

    by cacio
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    Re: HdP 1969

    I have not tried such gums, so cannot comment. I can see that the patch, sweetish base of 1969 might recall some sort of chocolate. I don't get mint from 1969, but fruit. but perhaps said gums don't...
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    Re: How to pick black dress shoes

    Agree with others- all black Oxford, without broguing, something like the ones you identified, are the way to go for a first pair of dress shoes. I don't have shoes of the brand you show, so cannot...
  17. Thread: Sahara noir

    by cacio
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    Re: Sahara noir

    Different types of perfume, and I agree with Rum's assessment. I wear Interlude the most.

    cacio
  18. Re: New Member Here - Wondering What to Do Next . . .

    Welcome!

    When you mentioned green and herbal, I thought about Chanel no 19 and especially Chanel Cristalle, which is greener (Cristalle Eau verte is the most citrusy of the cristalle line). No 19...
  19. Re: Rentless - Gorilla Perfume at Lush...... opinions

    It's a sweetish patchouli. Nice, but I'd say nothing special.

    In general, I think the Lush perfume line has a few standouts and is definitely worth checking if you happen in a Lush store. The most...
  20. Re: Men that wear Chanel No 19 and Cristalle EDT or EDP?

    I think they both would be ok for a man. As many others were saying, the edt for both is fresher and greener, so traditionally more masculine. I like Cristalle a lot. And seconding Cristalle eau...
  21. Re: Would you wear Dior Homme or Dior Homme Intense on a first date?

    As the others said, seems good. It's pleasant, modern, won't turn off anyone, and one spray doesn't disturb. if it's cold, I'd say the intense version may work even better, with the vanilla and the...
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    Re: Santa Maria Novella Carta D' Armenia

    Welcome!

    I agree with renaissance man, to me the main note is benzoin (besides, "Armenia" usually refers to this material), on a soft background of spices and herbs.

    cacio
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    Re: Fragrance for A Grandson?

    I don't see anything wrong with the old classics for a 16 year old (Eau Sauvage, Derby). They will probably smell new anyway for somebody who's used to aquatics, gourmands, or the like.

    If you...
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    Re: Looking for the next..

    I have not tried the two you mentioned.

    But for something classic masculine, I'm thinking Guerlain Derby.

    cacio
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    Re: What lotion do you use?

    The Kiehls is at my gym, so I use it after a shower there.

    At home, it varies. Currently using Cerave. La Roche Posay Lipikar is also one I use a lot.

    cacio
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    Re: What makes a scent feminine?

    As others were saying, right now the stereotype is scrubbed clean white florals or pink syrupy fruity.

    cacio
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    Re: Broken sprayer, help!

    Usually, the spray is not salvageable. I know some people use a syringe to remove the liquid from the little tube, but I don't know how to do it. I remove the spray mechanism with shears (carefully...
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    Re: Sycomore EdT or EdP ?? group preference

    EdT for me as well. the Edp is smoother and creamier, while the edt is drier and smokier. I like my vetivers dry and sharp, hence the edt. If you prefer smoother vetiver, you should prefer the edp...
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    Re: Rien incense intense.

    You mean whether Rien incense intense smells like cuir d'arabie? Not really. Both have an animalic note, but rien is primarily a musky leather while the Montale is primarily Montale's oud...
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    Re: What "propellant gas" really is?

    Thanks for the explanations.
    Alcohol + butane + under pressure... I can see why airlines didn't want that stuff on planes.

    cacio
  31. Re: What are you Gifting / Receiving this Holiday Season?

    My mom likes gardening, especially her rose bushes, so I'm planning to give her Auphorie's L'anima della rosa.
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    Re: What "propellant gas" really is?

    double post
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    Re: What "propellant gas" really is?

    Other should chime in, but my understanding is that net weight is the weight of perfume + propellant. If the volume of the perfume is 7.5ml, its weight should also be in that neighborhood.

    You'd...
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    Re: Rien incense intense.

    The musky leather is so strong that it makes it hard to isolate a note. My guess is that it is close to the churchy variety, though not as literal as, say, Cardinal or Avignon. But it's hard to smell...
  35. Re: What kind of man can pull off Dior Homme Intense?

    Agree with the others. It's quite mainstream and acceptable. This is not one of those "if you doubt yourself, wear something else" type of things. (This is the motto of a clothing brand, btw).
    ...
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    Re: Suggestions for samples for my wife

    Welcome!

    Orientals like Shalimar seem like a good idea. Plus if she likes vanilla. The other vanillic reference for Guerlain is Jicky, which could also be worth trying.

    Given her likes, I was...
  37. Thread: Autumn/Winter

    by cacio
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    Re: Autumn/Winter

    Welcome!

    I have not been to London in a long while, so not sure what the environment is like nowadays.

    But anyway, dangerous and badass for the winter-I'm thinking leathers. For instance, Etat...
  38. Thread: Egoiste?

    by cacio
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    Re: Egoiste?

    Lavender was used in fougeres, and old style fougeres are often associated with barbershop. But I agree with you, I don't associate lavender per se with barbershops. It's more the white musk,...
  39. Thread: Egoiste?

    by cacio
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    Re: Egoiste?

    I don't detect lavender in the regular Egoiste, nor does it remind me of barbershop.
  40. Thread: Egoiste?

    by cacio
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    Re: Egoiste?

    Dior Homme Intense, roughly speaking, is Dior Homme plus a lot of vanilla. So a more gourmand, warmer, and long lasting version of DH.

    Egoiste is quite different from Platinum Egoiste....
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    Re: Best Aldehydic Fragrance

    CDG has some strange (and strong) aldehydes in CDG2 man and Stephen Jones.

    Though it must be said that the classic Chanels (no 5, no 22) still master the art of aldehydes.
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    Re: Looking for a soft, rosewater-like rose

    It's hard to sustain a fresh, clean rose without ending up in a washing machine.

    $$$ Kurkdjian Ode a la rose manages to remain fresh and clean for a long time.
    The de Nicolai one is good...
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    Re: Favorite citrus-free vetiver?

    My vote for Vetiver extraordinaire, which I perceive as very zingy and dry but not citrusy.

    My impression of Sycomore edp is as you say. Smoother, which is not really what I am looking for in a...
  44. Re: French article about clothes designer and house perfumes

    Interesting article. Not sure I agree that designer houses now pose more attention to the juice. At least, not that I have noticed, and if so, they should probably stick to clothes.

    They do pose...
  45. Re: Where is the leather in Chanel cuir de russie edp?

    The current CdR parfum doesn't have the modern leather either. But it is more intense and long lasting and has more iris than the edp.

    cacio
  46. Re: Where is the leather in Chanel cuir de russie edp?

    The leather in current CdR is definitely on the smooth side, it's not the sharper things a la Tuscan leather. Vintage had birch tar and thus more bite, but it was still smooth.
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    Re: Amber Sultan, Amber 114, or Grand Soir

    Grand Soir feels a bit bland, for the price. Ambre sultan is more spicy, ambre 114 is classic.

    Among others, singling out the very powerful Ambra mediterranea.

    cacio
  48. Re: Looking for some Female Perfume recommendations

    It seems she likes clean and fresh. Off the top of my head, she could look into Bulgari eau parfumee au the vert (tea-like), ad the Jardin series of hermes.

    cacio
  49. Thread: Hello everyone

    by cacio
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    Re: Hello everyone

    Welcome!

    As others were saying, some old perfumes have been reformulated, so they need not be the way you remember them.

    As for more stuff to try, I recommend the Caron trio (Pour un homme,...
  50. Re: Great projection oriental spicy for women/unisex

    I will add Estee Lauder Youth Dew. Inexpensive, but still very good and powerful. There is also a Youth Dew bath oil that makes for a very perfumed bathtub soaking.

    cacio
  51. Thread: soapy lavender

    by cacio
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    Re: soapy lavender

    Luckily I don't find it soapy (in the sense of aldehydes or white musks), but i agree that Caron Pour un homme is a simple, clean, classic lavender.
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    Re: Beginer what path to choose?

    Welcome!

    I'd say it is better to buy one that you really like than 2 or 3 good but not exceptional.

    In the ones in your list, I'd say Caron Third man is classic and should work well.
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    Re: Best Italian Coast Inspired fragrance line?

    There are a few niche houses that take the name from there, like some other acque, eg Eau d'Italie (I think originally prepared for a hotel in the costiera amalfitana), Acqua di Genova, Acqua di...
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    Re: Which Guerlain next?

    Re Jicky vs Caron puh, hard to say-they are slightly different styles, one a hazy fougere, the other a more straightforward lavender. Both excellent, perhaps for Jicky/Mouchoir de monsieur, in...
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    Re: Which Guerlain next?

    Jicky (vanillic fougere) or its brother Mouchoir de Monsieur.

    But really, all the classics are great.
  56. Re: Latest Parfum D'Empire - Salute!

    Hednic

    I see, so it's really ciao, not cheers. The notes had me think about wine. Anyway, when you get it, you'll let us know what it smells like.

    cacio
  57. Re: What's the odd one else in my collection? (And what else should be there?)

    What is the blue bottle in the bottom pic?
    All seem classic 80s or so. More in that style? Seconding Kouros and Fahrenheit.
  58. Re: Latest Parfum D'Empire - Salute!

    Corsican and Italian are very close. So it must mean the same.
  59. Re: Latest Parfum D'Empire - Salute!

    Which language for the name?

    The notes suggest wine, and the term salute in Italian means cheers (literally health, but used also as cheers). If so, I am assuming that it doesn't make one smell as...
  60. Re: Large Bottle Sizes You Were Not Aware Your Fragrances Came In!

    I have a liter of eau de cologne, but of a regular perfume like Paco Rabanne, that'll last for years even if used daily.

    cacio
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    mon nov 25
    The Crazy 80s
    The 80s were a very rich period for perfumery. This decade was characterized by big changes in all areas, whether historical or cultural.

    In perfumery, it brought an air...
  62. Re: Which classic Guerlain fragrances are best for work?

    I'd say all of the above would be ok except Samsara. Especially in vintage form, Samsara is a big jasmine, so perhaps too much for work. L'homme ideal is probably the most stereotypically masculine...
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    Re: Got my Knize ten and knize ten golden

    I think that Cuir Cannage is more floral, Knize Ten is more butch and has more of a gasoline note. Both excellent.
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    Re: Habit Rouge, Heritage, L´Instant or Egoiste

    Egoiste for me as well. I feel it's still the richer and warmer. But Habit rouge and heritage are great too.
    cacio
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    Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    I don't know ALD antiquity, so I should definitely check.

    The old Cuir de Russie style seems indeed to be what you are looking for. The idea of Cuir de Russie was exactly to have the smell from...
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    Re: Non-Powdery Leather Recommendations

    Bel Ami is certanly very good and worth trying. People mean different things when they talk about "powdery"-sometimes it's iris, sometimes it's white musk, sometimes something else-so it's hard to be...
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    Re: Question about Aramis 900

    No, I didn't mean that it smells closer, but that it is similar and it lasts much longer.

    Still, Aromatics Elixir shouldn't be difficult to smell somewhere, so if you see it, give it a spray.
  68. Re: The BEST Niche (top of the line) HORSE fragrance house for Men?

    Interesting about anosmia and Galop. Luckily, I smell it. Who knows, could be any ingredient, perhaps the musks used.

    cacio
  69. Replies
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    Re: Question about Aramis 900

    Aromatics Elixir came two years earlier than Aramis 900. Same perfumer.

    Aramis (the original one, not Aramis 900) came out in the 60s. Same perfumer, but quite different, more of an animalic...
  70. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    Lily

    thanks for your comparisons. I must have got a bad batch then, because my en avion is really different, lacking any leather.

    cacio
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    Re: Question about Aramis 900

    Yes, Aramis 900 is clearly derived from Aromatics Elixir (relative to AE, it is less spicy and more floral). Estee Lauder did this for other perfumes as well-some feminines were repurposed for...
  72. Re: The BEST Niche (top of the line) HORSE fragrance house for Men?

    I hadn't noticed that Mazzolari has horses in its logo, and I concur with Scarce, this would be an excellent brand. Lui is properly macho and animalic. Uomo is a traditional fougere. And others are...
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    Re: Question about Aramis 900

    It's its recognizable self, but it's much weaker (probably lack of oakmoss or the like).
    At this point, one might even consider the sister Aromatics Elixir, which is itself weaker than it was, but...
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    Re: Cuir Cannage appreciation thread

    Yes, CdR parfum does not have big sillage, it's rather quiet. But it does last a long time.

    cacio
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    Re: Cuir Cannage appreciation thread

    Chanel Cuir de Russie in parfum still lasts very well. Of course-it's much more expensive that the already expensive edt/edp
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    Re: Cuir Cannage appreciation thread

    On whether you'd like Knize Ten. Knize Ten feels stronger and has a certain gasoline vibe. So if you like Cuir Cannage, you won't necessarily like it.

    Still, I think it's worth smelling again, in...
  77. Poll: Re: Which is currently the best Hermes leather perfume?

    I voted Galop because I find it the most interesting of the group, with Nagel's signature rotten fruit note. But to be honest it's really not a leather perfume in the usual sense (in the same way as...
  78. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    Thanks for the heads up!

    How is En Avion? The one I bought from the Paris boutique 3 or 4 years ago was definitely subpar.

    cacio
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    Re: Best long-lasting high-end luxury niche citrus?

    Seconding Azemour les Oranger, an excellent citrus chypre.
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    Re: New(ish) fragrances with floral notes?

    Not sure how new they need to be, but off the top of my head:
    Hermes: Twilly
    Chanel: no 5 l'eau
    Estee Lauder: Modern Muse
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    Re: Cuir Cannage appreciation thread

    I do like it a lot too. A very elegant floral leather that's as classic as it gets and works perfectly.

    I myself prefer stronger leathers like Leather oud or, among florals, Knize Ten. Relative to...
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    Re: Looking for fall/winter suggestions

    Warm things that come to mind include
    Chanel Egoiste (woody, creamy)
    A Men or some flanker like Pure Malt

    cacio
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    Re: Request : Woody oriental, creamy and airy

    CDG2 man is incense + vetiver. Vetiver + creamy base there are a few I can think of. Not sure about creamy incense.
  84. Re: Random Wondering: Am I severely adverse to the scent of Almonds due to...

    We can be hypersensitive to pretty much any material, whether it's poisonous or not. So it's certainly possible.

    I have not had the misfortune to smell cyanide, so cannot say. I believe there is...
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    Re: Cheap and Effective EDT

    My vote for Azzaro too. Not as good as the original version of years ago, but still very good and versatile.
  86. Re: Best "value for money" scents, which niche collectors wouldn't turn their noses up at

    The Caron trio, as said (Pour un homme, Troisieme, Yatagan)
    Chanel pour monsieur edt (edt only, not available in US)
    Chanel Egoiste
    Chanel Antaeus
    Guerlain Vetiver
    Dior Homme (edt and main...
  87. Re: Chanel Eau de Cologne: was it ever reformulated?

    I bought a 400ml in the earlier batches. Then the 400ml bottle disappeared, and reappeared for a Christmas season a couple of years ago, when I bought another. Not sure whether it was a new batch or...
  88. Re: Chanel Eau de Cologne: was it ever reformulated?

    I bought the original then bought again a 400 ml bottle two years ago and they smell the same.
  89. Re: Collectors: what, why, & how; and do you ever think you might be 'addicted'?

    Addiction is a rather strong word...

    I started collecting after I read a book and then got interested. I like to smell things and learn.
    I use the perfumes, but with a collection of 200+, each...
  90. Re: I needed to smell Interlude Man on someone else

    Indeed, the right amount of perfume for when one is outside and doesn't have people leaning close by is not the same as that for an enclosed space, especially for big perfumes like Interlude.

    A bn...
  91. Re: I needed to smell Interlude Man on someone else

    Interlude is strong, but that person must have sprayed really a lot (like 10 sprays)

    cacio
  92. Thread: Dior in Paris

    by cacio
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    Re: Dior in Paris

    Perhaps you can try sending an email first, to check.

    However, if they are available anywhere, I also think that this would be either Lafayette/Printemps, the av Montaigne boutique, or the new...
  93. Re: What i can´t miss in Paris? Olfactory tour, buying bargains (if it exists)!

    Seconding what others were saying. If you happen to be in town when the osmotheque has a smelling conference, that's a good opportunity (provided you speak french.

    Bargain is not easy to come by....
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    Re: My bottle of Terre d'Hermès has gone bad

    Welcome!

    Perfume can certainly go bad but not this quickly. Perhaps, as brooks was saying, it's more a case of nose fatigue. Put it aside for a while and revisit later. Also, perfumes seem much...
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    Re: Patchouli 24 Feedback

    One never knows... but a single application on wrist (which can get dry quickly) hopefully is not representative.
  96. Re: Jane Birkin on her mother's Schiaparelli Shocking

    Envious of your bottle!

    If l'air de rien was reformulated, then this explains why I find it meh. I agree that Shocking has a honey note, not the current fruity syrups, but dirty honey, which adds...
  97. Thread: Guerlain Derby

    by cacio
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    Re: Guerlain Derby

    I smelled a tester a couple of years ago and found it very good too. Once in a while, a perfume that survived in a good state.

    The bottle is ugly, but it doesn't matter.

    cacio
  98. Re: Jane Birkin on her mother's Schiaparelli Shocking

    Thanks for the link!

    Shocking was a glorious perfume, very musky and unique. Probably half of its content would now be unavailable or forbidden.

    L'air de rien is much much less daring (and...
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    Re: Patchouli based Masculine scents.

    Seconding Mazzolari Lui for a very macho thing (musks, patch, woods, leather)-but it is definitely less refined that givenchy.
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    Re: Le Labo's Vanille 44 vs. Gaiac 10

    Interesting, I don't find Guaiac cloying or intense at all. On the contrary, it feels like light (but persistent) dry woods (unlike santal, which I find very coconutty).
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