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  1. Replies
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    Re: Dilute by volume or dilute by weight?

    Weigh an empty bottle.
    Pour the 50% benzoin into it and weigh it.
    Divide the weight in half.
    Multiply that half X three.
    Add that amount of alcohol or dilutant to get a 20% dilution.


    PK
  2. Replies
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    Re: Dimethyl Sulphide

    I don't think I've ever read the "Single Note Forum".

    I vote for the DIY... :-)

    PK
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    Re: Heliotropin: The Low Down

    PA's Heliotropin replacer is simply Heliotropin diluted to 50% in Benzyl Benzoate.
  4. Replies
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    Re: Vintage Dianthine Base Formula

    You can substitute Cinalkex for Cinnamic Alcohol.

    PK
  5. Replies
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    Re: Amyl Cinnamic Aldehyde - replacement

    hmmm, just got a small beer fridge from my neighbor for my new lab... Guess that more will go into it then I thought...???

    PK
  6. Replies
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Fails again to install. Error report has been sent back...

    PK
  7. Replies
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    Re: Decent-ish quality Berg and Lav EO?

    Try www.theperfumery.com

    These are by the pound prices, but they sell also in smaller qty's too:





    Bergamot oil FCF, China
    Citrus bergamia Risso et Piot...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Will not install on my 64 bit tablet, there is a data error. file will not even open.
  9. Replies
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    Musk Xylol / Xylene Replacer . . ?

    I'm noodling around for a Musk Xylol replacer, as I don't have any real Musk Xylol to figure out myself what could be subbed for it in a formula...

    Any Thoughts?

    And, No, I don't have any Musk...
  10. Replies
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    Re: Dilution for Economical Reasons?

    Yes it would weaken it further, and you may not need to dilute something already diluted with DPG, however, most materials sold, are sold at as high a strength as usable and acceptable, (Unless...
  11. Replies
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    Re: Dilution for Economical Reasons?

    So, Alcohol dilution: If you desire to dilute your materials to 10% in Alcohol, that's a good way to learn and economize in that learning how to blend. This is what many teachers recommend for...
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    Re: Making perfume thicker

    As stated, DPG. Also consider (even better to me,) Hercolyn D.

    But Hercolyn D costs more, but is also thicker. Please refrain from using glycerin.... but could depend upon application and...
  13. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by pkiler
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    This MDS sample that I obtained is old non-compliant stock, YAY! :-)
  14. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by pkiler
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    971

    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Bacon? :-) Using some Guaiacwood wood too?
  15. Thread: Mousse de Saxe

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    971

    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    Hi,
    welcome Kev to the forum...

    jfrater, the formulae I am looking at for Mousse de Saxe and other Mousse bases are rather more complex than your start here. MDS has 23 lines...

    MDS doesn't...
  16. Replies
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    Re: What do you do with waste aromatics?

    I use these waste materials in potpourri, just pour them on the woodchips and things, and let evaporate. Also, since it is very hot here in the summer, and I have a large wooden fence around the...
  17. Re: How do you think this would smell as a perfume

    Only you know what these FO's smell like, and their intensities. No one here can speculate for a response, too many variables, I'm afraid.


    PK
  18. Thread: Micropipettes

    by pkiler
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    440

    Re: Micropipettes

    That"s not really a micropipettor.

    Try a pipetman.
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    Re: orris butter, how do you use

    Hi Peaches,

    You could try this...
    Still use it in dilution, albeit not @ 10%.

    Even you can afford this scale:
    500g x 0.01g Digital Jewelry Scale 0.01 gram Precision Scale w/ Piece Counting...
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    Re: Dimethyl Sulphide

    Thanks ever so much David, I enjoyed this little lesson...

    :-)

    PK
  21. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by pkiler
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    I'd love to know more myself, got a link?
  22. Replies
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    Re: New here. Want to make simple mix.

    40B is the alcohol you want.
  23. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by pkiler
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    574

    Re: Vintage Bases

    Do you *want* IFRA compliancy?
  24. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by pkiler
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    I only can speak of the Firmenich Dianthine vintage base that I have and had analyzed. I sincerely doubt that old and new are the same, and sort of even doubt if it is still made, although that last...
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    PK's New Lab in Process

    Gotten this far, as pictured:

    http://www.basenotes.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=38954&stc=1

    Room is made, walled, insulated, electrical is run, Heating and AC is run from the house into the...
  26. Thread: Mellis Accord

    by pkiler
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    2,633

    Re: Mellis Accord

    12-methyl-9-oxa-14-tetradecanolide is this odor:
    intense musky-floral, powdery odor reminiscent of the nitro musk musk ambrette, with additional woody, myrrh-type factors

    Try Ambrettex XNM plus...
  27. Replies
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    Re: New here. Want to make simple mix.

    Must use 190 or higher alcohol, like Perfumers Alcohol, or 192 Spirytus Potato Vodka, or 191 Everclear.

    Dilute to 20% or 25% and should be fine all around, and if done as stated, will be usable...
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    Re: How to select a good perfume alcohol?

    40B is the one to use...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    I've gotten in a sample of it, but it sits here on my desk, I haven't had time to work with it yet. and it would seem to be a blend of items to approximate that single molecule.
    It's at first smell...
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    Re: Bulk quantities supplier

    So is that 1 lb. of 100 items?

    Natural Essential oils?
    Natural Aroma chemicals?
    Synthetics Aroma Chemicals?

    What Country are you in?

    Your inquiry does not have enough parameters for...
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    Re: Hydrocarboresine (A Biolandes base)

    except I want them all...

    Here's a trade secret, Hydrocarboresine is THE secret ingredient in Norma Kamali's Incense perfume.

    If I weren't so broke, I would have ordered a kilo a LOOOONG...
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    Re: IFRA Regulations - A simple question

    I'd better keep my mouth shut... ;-)

    PK
  33. Re: OH BOY...NEW PSH PRODUCTS! JASMOLACTONE (Firmenich) & a few others

    After years of trying to get a sample of Olibanol, I got one from the Robertet Rep, I'm still trying to figure out exactly what it is. Maybe Christine can ask when she buys it.

    It smells like ...
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    Re: Which floralizers do you know?

    Florosa, Florhydral, linalool, heliotropin, viridiflor, touches of many Schiff bases, anything with Geranyl in the name, Mimosa Abs., ...

    PK
  35. Replies
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    Re: Which floralizers do you know?

    The Perfumers Search Tool website is your friend, make good acquaintance with it:

    and also see: http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/odor/floral.html

    PK
  36. Replies
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    Re: Orange Flower Accord

    PA's Orangeflower accord needs Indole or such, to start with...

    And you can sub other Schiff bases for part of the Aurantiol. You may want to tune it up in other ways too.

    PK
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    W&T, surely you can visit, I'm 1.5 hrs East of Los Angeles.
  38. Replies
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    As soon as my new lab is finished, I can start to think about the brief... The walls are painted, the flooring is down, and the wood shelves for the organ wall are halfway done. Then enough of the...
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    Re: Critique My Deluxe Sandalwood Accord

    Consider Javanol as very powerful. I agree with cutting it down drastically. But most of all, as Sir David sayz, "Make it and smell it, instead of talking about it..." to paraphrase Sir David...
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    Re: Working with concretes

    Please, try the concretes, and see if you like the solution...

    Searching Basenotes? Searching DIY?

    Search DIY only in the search function, upper right of the topics. Search BN all, on the top...
  41. Re: Newbie questions / Help working with Benzoin Absolute and Vanilla Absolute?

    Those ear cleaners are called curettes. I use a lot of them in Stainless steel. But I'd still recommend dilution by weight, for predictive repeatability...

    PK
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    Re: Perfumery Shop Concept

    W&T, Here's my thoughts:

    The idea is nice.
    The feasibility, and longterm business viability of the business is more the issue.

    Yes, you will have some clients. But since most people are put...
  43. Thread: citronellol

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    Re: citronellol

    There certainly is room for lots of confusion around Rhodinol:



    The combination of citronellol and geranio rhodinol (ex citronella), and rhodinol is a synthetic raw material that smells like a...
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    Re: Sandalwood Mysore Recreation

    Infant poop is in fact a common adulterant of civet.

    PK
  45. Replies
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    Re: Sandalwood Mysore Recreation

    This was a by the nose, as accumulated over the course of several years experiences, to understand the scent, and how other people had approached it, (or failed), and it was necessary to acquire some...
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    Re: Grateful for an endowment to PK Perfumes

    Not yet, they are moving to Chinatown, so not yet scheduled...
    but there's also interest in long distance video classes too, run from my new lab... ;-)
  47. Replies
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    Re: Sandalwood Mysore Recreation

    Quick and dirty Sandalwood accord is Santall or Sandalrome.

    My 'pretty-darned-close' Sandalwood accord, (without the urinous note) is 23 items, including one natural, and one IFF oliffac base. ...
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    Re: Grateful for an endowment to PK Perfumes

    With the number of formulae in the books, there are many "types" of perfumes by Guerlain, Dior, Lanvin, many others, in addition to the works done for Estee Lauder, Coty, etc., as mentioned.
    ...
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    Re: GERMACRENE - Boronia Headspace Based Accord

    I've written another supplier too, I'm interested in a group thingie that we can't talk about here.

    PK

    Edited: Their response:
    Yes, we do carry some. It is a natural isolate that is only...
  50. Re: Newbie questions / Help working with Benzoin Absolute and Vanilla Absolute?

    Yep, 50% dilution, and I would try, since the scale of volume of blended materials is so tiny, use double the amount of material that is at 50%. If too much, cut it back.

    Yes, if you're gonna...
  51. Re: Newbie questions / Help working with Benzoin Absolute and Vanilla Absolute?

    Hi, Not possessing her book, I can't say, but look around for info in the book about how these viscous materials may be used/already diluted. Yes, Likely they are prediluted, by weight, in alcohol,...
  52. Re: Can I turn ready mixed perfume oil into a spray EDT?

    Dilution in general, makes a scent last a shorter amount of time. (as a rule)

    so, on a per spray basis, you'd be depositing more stock on your skin, at higher dilution ratios. But that makes the...
  53. Replies
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    Re: PA's Tobacco Accord and "Cedarwood oil"

    What about Cedarwood Texas, or Cedarwood Chinese...? Lots to pick from...

    Try the Virginia first, I suppose... then Texas.

    Best guess..

    PK
  54. Replies
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    Grateful for an endowment to PK Perfumes

    I can finally make this public:

    A Perfumer of 40 years, who was President of Albert Verley USA, whose company merged with Henri Robert Inc., produced functional fragrances and fine perfumes for...
  55. Re: Can I turn ready mixed perfume oil into a spray EDT?

    Try your Perfume oils diluted in 190 proof ethyl alcohol denatured (Perfumers Alcohol) @ 15% and 20% dilutions. See how you like them. If too weak or strong, adjust accordingly.
  56. Replies
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Thank you, both Bill and David...

    PK
  57. Replies
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    Yes, the cartoon is Wonder Woman, (the star on her headband gives this away...) :-)

    PK
  58. Replies
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    Nice, thanks for the trailer!

    PK
  59. Re: Looking for master destiller advice (essential oil)

    You should experiment with placing a copper item in the processing distillation line, so that the Lavender can react with the copper to change the chemical makeup of your Lavender oils for the...
  60. Re: Looking for Good Orange Blossom Fragrance Oil

    The Key Accord Formula:

    Orange Flower Accord


    These measurements are in grams and would make 1000 grams of concentrate.
    If you have a gram scale, you could divide each component by 100 to...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Vintage musk usage and odor and Jicky

    Is it Tonquitone that you are thinking of @ $4,000 USD/liter?

    See this, if so:
    https://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-7655-tonquitone-musk-essence-i.aspx

    PK
  62. Re: Looking for Good Orange Blossom Fragrance Oil

    The PA Orange Flower key accord is nice, clean, a good place to start, but it Definitely needs Indole or an Indole substitute.

    It's still not quite close, in my mind for a flower identical...
  63. Replies
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    Re: What's "Rose W"?

    Yikes, I see that Rose W has a giant amount of yet another base formula, Rose base 30.....

    PK
  64. Replies
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    Re: What's "Rose W"?

    That would very likely be Rose Wardia base, imho...

    PK
  65. Replies
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    Re: Physicists / chemists wanted

    So, Comparing the substantivity, or evaporation times of each element helps me to plan my scents.

    I was hoping for each element in the database to have this information in it's own field, so that...
  66. Thread: Incense musk

    by pkiler
    Replies
    2
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    500

    Re: Incense musk

    Could also be musk ketone, musk ambrettolide, or whatever else is cheap. But really, it's impossible to tell, in generalities...
  67. Re: Piperonal (Heliotropin) in Perfumer and Flavorist

    I can buy the real heliotropine, and plus, PA and Creating Perfume sell it cut to 50%, which makes it fine to sell around, BUT, since I needed a qty, I just decided to avoid the hooha, and buy a Kg...
  68. Re: Piperonal (Heliotropin) in Perfumer and Flavorist

    If only P&F had a perfumer writing as John Wright writes for flavorists, it would make a subscription worthwhile.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Perfume magazine

    Yes, I just bought Issue #4.

    You could also get an online subscription for Perfumer Flavorist magazine, however the amount of useful information for Perfumers is much less that as found useful for...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Odeur de Champignon

    How about just buying Mushroom absolute?

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/product/mushroom-absolute
    http://www.hermitageoils.com/gourmand-absolutes/mushroom-absolute-cepes...
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    Re: SuperGirl perfume making game

    Hey, I think I'll play...

    Since IFRA is my nemesis, I'll take option 3. YIKES!

    PK
  72. Replies
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    Hi, Have you made a newer version that the 1.1 that you posted almost a year ago?

    I might give it a whirl in my new lab soon coming...

    PK
  73. Thread: Info. required

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    458

    Re: Info. required

    Namaste, I don't think there are great answers in this regard.

    There are classic French perfumery answers.
    There are present day mass market answers.
    There are Handmade Artisan perfumery...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Bourbon fragrance

    Well, if you follow the attributes as listed in the mooreorganics page: " Characteristic of bourbon. Smokey, oaky, slight vanilla and fruity undertones."
    You can build your scent... You're the...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Bourbon fragrance

    So with no synthetics nor alcohol, your options are quite limited.

    You could start with Mooreganics and buy their Whiskey (Bourbon) Type Flavor Natural
    and then get a lab to extract the alcohol...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Geosmin in the U.S.

    http://perfumersupplyhouse.com/product/geosmin-iff-1-in-dpg/
  77. Replies
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    Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    If I had to characterize my thoughts on the difference between Chocovan and the PSH Chocolate Accord, I would say that Chocovan is more milky lactonic (chocolate) than the PSH accord.

    I would look...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Storage and Preventing oxidation

    Use an inert gas spray to replace the oxygen in the top of the bottle before sealing.

    I have a big Argon bottle tank.

    You might buy one of these:...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    PA sells it...

    PK
  80. Thread: Oud Perfume

    by pkiler
    Replies
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    2,645

    Re: Oud Perfume

    These sound like common notation for these type of sellers, so I'm afraid that this might be a rabbit hole chase, unfortunately...


    PK
  81. Replies
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    Re: Perfumery Practices & Principals

    You can leaf through it before purchase if you like:
    https://books.google.com/books/about/Perfumery.html?id=XD9w2xR2HjsC&hl=en

    PK
  82. OOOPS! Now I have to order a Kilo of Methyl Ionone Beta Coeur

    Wiseguys needs me to rebuild their signature scent, (their Perfumer decided to disappear, with the formula...) and when I looked at the GC, I realized I had not even ever smelled the Methyl Ionone...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    After reading other formulae to compare, I've/We've figured out that:

    Line 7 = Civette de Laire 4 ( I told JFrater today that this was likely a Natural, but am having second thoughts now...) -...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    Hi Alysoun,

    The origin of these formulas is a set/series of notebooks that was found being sold by a Bookseller on the USA east coast.
    The purchase price is set at somewhere around $10,000 USD,...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Makes me look at your Picture Icon with the silly smile, and grin. :-)
  86. Replies
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    My Forensic handwriting analysis, Time detective considerations, perfume knowledge and technology thoughts, for the origin of these materials, gave me the conclusion that the formulae written in...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    It is a considered opinion that the birch tar of old was not near as strong as what we use today...

    Likely I would 1/3 - halve the dose of what you used, and see where that places it. Plus, Smoky...
  88. Thread: Pyralone

    by pkiler
    Replies
    6
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    583

    Re: Pyralone

    Boye - Where are you buying your 6-isobutylquinoline?

    No, Pyralone and 6-isobutylquinoline are not the same.

    PK
  89. Thread: Alpha Terpineol

    by pkiler
    Replies
    23
    Views
    1,272

    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    The Best one is Alpha Terpineol Supra from Rennesenz, but we can't really get it.

    They're all gonna smell that way, but yes, some are better... But I don't have the PA version.

    PK
  90. Replies
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    Re: Can someone identify these ingredients?

    My Take is that:

    H = Heliotropin
    V = Vanilla/Vanillin
    C = Coumarin
    M.X. = Musk Xylene

    As for these other lines:

    C_____ De Laire 4 (de Laire the Mfr)
  91. Replies
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Can't be ignored, but it *is* Methyl Anthranilate. It is in fact foundational.

    PK
  92. Replies
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    Thanks, that is in fact the very same set of results that I had already purchased. (And used to help me construct my Tuberose scent...)

    Nice that it is now free... :-)

    PK
  93. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    So, First off, WHICH Lavandin? Grosso? Abrialis? Hidcote? Provence? etc...

    Once you know which species, then go to the EOU database
    http://www.essentialoils.org/

    And run a trace through the...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Or Ethyl Vanillin, instead of Ethyl Vanillan. :-)

    Surely, we all make mitsakes, myself includeed... :-)

    PK
  95. Replies
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    Re: Guaiacwood melting

    At least when I bought a Kg of a solid MA/Helional Schiff base, Vigon sent a plastic bottle that I simply cut off the solid, and carved up the Schiff base with a chisel and hammer...

    :-)

    PK
  96. Thread: Nirvanolide

    by pkiler
    Replies
    6
    Views
    626

    Re: Nirvanolide

    Yes, Nirvanolide is supposed to be a Musk Ketone 'type' replacement.

    I just got another Musk Ketone replacer, Ketonex, but I'm not sold on it as a replacer, just sniffing the opened bottle, as it...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Critique my rose accord please...

    Certainly, the formula depends upon which rose you wish to emulate.
    The roses at my neighbor's house are filled with Citronellol, others I smell are filled with PEA.

    "Rose" - can be all over the...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Fruit accords formulae

    "Grapefruit" is pretty easy, simply start with Methyl Pamplemousse.

    PK
  99. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    This is a file I started to work on preparing research for Zoologist Perfumes, compiling a compendium about musks and animalics.

    I have learned more, and added more to another version, that I will...
  100. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    http://www.basenotes.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=37756&stc=1

    This is a small Graph of musk types
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