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  1. Replies
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    I love beta-damascone. To me it smells like plums...

    I love beta-damascone. To me it smells like plums and dried fruits, slight coumarin and suede.
    And when I smell it, it radiates a dark plum-wine sweetness...but this sweetness flickers, off and on....
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    Re: Taking my leave

    At the beginning of my post, yes - I truly thought they were exactly the same.
    But, as any good, thinking person does, I am open to having my mind changed.

    I just like getting info straight from...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Then what exactly is the problem here George?
    Because so far as I understand,
    The "problem," as some see it. Is this, it seems senior members don`t like being questioned by junior member. If it`s...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I know what I wrote.
    TGSC does suggest that castoreum and IBQ have similar properties.
    I pointed this out to David, he said these materials smell "nothing," alike.

    No place in the DIY forum...
  5. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I agree with you Pears.
    It`s philosophical difference which can`t be resolved.
    Some believe junior members should not argue, and or have different opinions from senior members.
    My opinion is that...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I`m glad you caught that. You are correct, this is what I initially thought.
    "Synonym," As defined by the English language, means 2 different words - with the same meaning.
    Thus, logically, I...
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    Thanks so much for your help George.
    Awesome!
    M
  8. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    It was`t me who said that, it was TGSC that suggested castoréum and IBQ have similar organoleptic properties.
    One former member said they smell "nothing," like one another. TGSC said they have...
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    Thanks so much, I love the general direction of this formula.
    Beautiful stuff :-)
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    Aha! Good to know, I will try the later!
    Matt
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Now I am confused.
  12. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I understand your argument, I agree with you 90%
    I would`t dare suggesting I know more than Paul.

    Not every great basketball player wears the same shoes.
    But they are great. Is it the shoes?...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Jamie, you flatter me!
    Your formulas and love for perfumes are fantastic, and I don`t consider you a "beginner," by any mean,
    You are FAR MORE experienced than myself :-)

    Now, onto the "guru,"...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Thanks so much Dana.
    Super appreciate your time explaining this to me.
    Well, simplification? Yes. I am speaking to the heart of the matter.

    You may disagree with me.
    But that’s ok, it’s ok to...
  15. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Thanks for translation Dana,
    super appreciate it.
    M

    I won’t get into it, because clearly our opinions differ.
    And that’s ok. It’s ok to have a difference of opinions on basenotes.
    It’s...
  16. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Bill, I would like to engage your comments with logic and not emotion.
    I would like to reply to your comments... but they are bit abstract to me.

    1). what do you mean by "straw man comments." ...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Geco, I whole agree with you.
    I was looking to go beyond "relativistic," perfuming....
    When I asked for prof that a certain suppliers materials are cheap quality.
    I asked for object facts. But...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I`m uncertain how you distinguish "real," from "unreal," DIY perfumers.
    So far as I know, there is no strict, hierarchy, graduation system. No certificates etc.

    I have spent thousands of hours...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I have no doubt at all, that he is a good man.
    I have smelled his perfumes, and they are fantastic!
  20. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    With a number posts directed at me, I am forced to respond.


    If this DIY forum were one of strict hierarchy...
    If, from the beginning, the forum rules clearly stated;

    1). junior members can...
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    All very excellent points,
    this is a very old formula indeed.

    Thank you for proving possible alternatives!
    Matthew
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    Rendition of Chanel`s Coromandel

    Coromandel is a thick, patchouli amber from Chanel.
    https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Chanel/Les-Exclusifs-de-Chanel-Coromandel-7145.html

    This is my rendition, not an exact match.
    IMHO it`s...
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    Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    This is a thick, rich and warm amber.
    From Felix Cola`s early formulas.

    This uses Musk Keytone powder.
    I LOVE the way musk keytone works in this formula.
    Very warm, fuzzy and soft. Musk...
  24. Re: Fragrance Too Weak in Fractionated Coconut Oil

    This is taken from the Vetiver Aromatics website.

    Q: WHAT ARE FRAGRANCE NOTES AND HOW ARE THEY USED?
    A: Fragrance Notes, aromatic oils or perfume oils are manufactured scents. They are...
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    Re: Coumarin and Tonka Bean Abs

    Dilute both materials to 10% in ethanol.
    Then, compare the 2 materials.

    IMHO (just my opinion)
    You will see that tonka bean is far more complex.
    It is rich, round. leathery, suede-like, sweet...
  26. Re: Formula: Brazilian Rosewood Oil Replacer

    Thank you both so much.
    rosewood is such lovely material.
    Matt
  27. Re: Formula: Brazilian Rosewood Oil Replacer

    Thank you so much.
    I LOVE rosewood, it is vastly more complex, round and earthy....vastly superior to the single molecule of linalool
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    Re: ISO E Super help

    Iso-E-Super is one of my most favourite materials.
    If you are looking for something warm, then yes, to me - Iso E Super is 100% warmth.

    IMHO -
    - It is soft, buttery and smooth.
    - it has a...
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    Re: Formula: A Nod to Égoïste

    Thank you for sharing Mr.Frater,
    This is a fantastic formula and I will definitely make it.
    I have crafted many of yours. Your orange flower formula is, in fact,
    My “go to,” orange flower...
  30. Re: Has anyone ordered bottles from Alibaba?

    Thank so much
    M
  31. Re: Advice regarding the diluting of civet absolute

    Exactly the same as mine from PSH.
    I combined my civet absolute tincture from PSH with
    A civet I bought from a Canadian supplier on Etsy.
    Apothecary Garden.

    The apothecary gardens civet paste...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I wouldn’t want to see Paul quit the forum.
    But, as you have suggested...it is his choice.
  33. Has anyone ordered bottles from Alibaba?

    I`m thinking of order my first 50 bottles for friends, and a couple of local people I make simple "perfumes," for.
    (I still do not consider myself a "perfumer," at all No, not one bit).

    I...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Thanks man.
    Always good advice from you Pears.
    Matt
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    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    Amazing. Thank you so much Mr. Frater.
    Yes, Tabac Blonde, that makes sense!
    The combination of jasmine, vetiver and coumarin - this balance between dry hay and sweet jasmine creates a suede like...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    I don`t want to see Paul leave.
    I actually have an incredible amount of respect for the man.
    I`ve smelled Paul`s creations, they are fantastic.
    It`s clear to me the man KNOWS how to make...
  37. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Well
    I have had good luck with all their materials
  38. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    My intentions were to separate “opinion,” from “fact.”
    I am satisfied with my efforts, and won’t post in this thread any longer.
  39. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Pears,
    I bought both their aroma compounds and their fluorescence products,
    I have compared perfumers worlds fluorescence products to my IFF and Firmenich
    accords and their fluorescence products...
  40. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    When someone asks me to make (for example)
    very simple perfumes of; orris butter, osmanthus and jasmine absolute...
    And they paid me with their hard earned cash, I ALWAYS get all my naturals from...
  41. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Ok Paul. I can see you want to be taken seriously here.
    I know that you have more experience than myself. Absolute 100% you have more experience.
    And you keep saying over and over again, "trust...
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    I do not think you are way off. Not at all.
    I do believe it is much more difficult to replicate complex formulas that are made of lot`s of naturals.


    For some reason, my mind really grasped...
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    Re: Good perfume formulas for beginners

    My mistake!
    I meant to reply to Linalool.
    Matthew
  44. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    My point is this;
    I don`t want to steer people away from experimenting for themselves.
    I don`t want to steer people away from asking questions for themselves.
    I don`t want to steer people away...
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    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    Just to let you know Geko,
    This Ophira 50 Accord - is DEFINITELY worth building.

    It`s clean, dry, woody and sweet, and can be at the centre of some pretty awesome Fougere`s!
    - fougere
    -...
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    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    Thank you Geko!! :-)
    I think this might also go well with a Mellis Accord.
    (Oh yes, and in combination with the P.A. amber accord, A melees would make for a wonderful start to an insence accord. ...
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    Example of a more modern, complex woody amber.
    Taken from the TGSC database
    This accord is dusty and dry...Yet, well balanced.
    You might want to add a larger volume of sweet, more resinous...
  48. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    I disagree.
    Why should any artist limit their options?
    Should`t the creative person decide for themselves if they like, or dislike any supplier?

    I have actually had good luck with perfumers...
  49. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    No, no. Not anyone from base notes, Pears.
    I am suggesting this; for the young perfumer their spirit of inquire, questioning and experimentation should stop at nothing.
  50. Replies
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    Re: Good perfume formulas for beginners

    Dana, just look up Louis Appel`s formulas within TGSC.
    You will see an array of (what I feel are very good) old fashioned formulas.
    Old fashioned formulas tend to use a lot of naturals and early...
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    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    I agree with you Geko. I have a couple of Mellis accords, and I love them.

    May I ask you,
    How do you dress and express your Mellis accords?
    Matthew
  52. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    I 1000% agree with you.
    Stephan dowthwaite is well known, and from what I know from talking to people, well respected within the industry.
    He has helped thousands of people learn about perfumery....
  53. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Your probably thinking of a different Bill
    Matt
  54. Replies
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    Re: Good perfume formulas for beginners

    The Good Scent Company Demi formula database is a
    Good place to start.

    Many of the formulas are older...
    But IMHO some of the older formulas have more style, body and personality
    Than the...
  55. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    I think it might have to do with trademarking names?
    I`m not 100% sure. I`m not a chemist, and I don`t work for these large companies.

    The same molecules are often trademarked under different...
  56. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    "Seems I have way too much time on my hands today,"
    Absolutely not! Thanks so much for staying on topic and making a positive contribution to this thread!
    TGSC is an important resource for us :-) ...
  57. Try Perfumersworld Workbook Software - accord building software

    There`s no single way to building accords;
    You might want to download the Perfumersworld, it`s free accord building software.
    https://www.perfumersworld.com/perfumers-workbook.php

    It has a...
  58. Re: Late night thoughts of bonding us together

    Awesome that we have someone that works as a professional in the industry!
    Super envious of you! :-) cheers M
  59. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Hey Jeroen, I just sent Bill at TGSC an email to ask him about this...
    will report back to you :-) Thanks so much! M
  60. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    You will see in TGSC demo formulas that musks and transparent materials
    Make up a large amount (greater than 50%) of many of the modern formulas.
    I am not referring to any singular formula,...
  61. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    Dana,
    When I wrote “typical,” I was referring to the dozens of
    Formulas I took inspiration from; TGSC demo formulas.

    Take a quick look into some formulas and you will see what I am referring...
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    It seems to me that abstract language, and unique descriptions
    Are a part of crafting a personal relationship with ones materials.

    Even Arcadi seems to engage in these types of abstract...
  63. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Disagreement of opinion is not trolling.
    I’ve tried several orders from perfumersworld, they certainly aren’t bad.
  64. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Awesome series of responses guys!
    I`m going to send an email to TGSC;
    To ask them if the "synonyms," section is meant to refer to the exact same molecule or not.

    Still, I do believe that...
  65. Replies
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    Just an other idea/opinion of mine....

    Another thing to watch out for with thick accord, accords like incense is over use of many heavy materials.
    Be sure to incorporate lots of lifting...
  66. Benzyl Acetate used as a sweetener, diffusive material

    Personally, I have used Benzyl Acetate as a top, to middle note sweetener and diffusion element.
    The obvious use for benzyl acetate is in Jasmine and white floral accords.
    But *I have found other...
  67. Replies
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    My post are no different from anyone else here. We are all sharing ideas here.
    Notice I use words like "suggest," not "this is the only way to do something,"....
    I am not, never have claimed to be...
  68. Replies
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    One idea might be to add a tiny amount of Benzyl Acetate to
    1). sweeten/add a fruity jasmine note and
    2). add diffusion to an incense accord.
  69. Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    I was mistakenly, under the impression that materials from Perfumersworld were of bad quality.
    I would like to correct myself now. I was absolutely, 100% wrong.
    Their materials are, to the best of...
  70. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    Welcome to base notes "Antifatuity," (interesting name, yes I am familiar with the word fatuity) I see you are a new member?

    First, I would like to say thank you so much for the great compliment....
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    Re: problems with scale - drops / drops - scale

    Well, yes.
    For small, momentary projects..
    then drops are of course, fine.
  72. Replies
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    Re: problems with scale - drops / drops - scale

    I honestly hate drops
    they take too much time!
    AND they are very inaccurate
  73. Replies
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    Re: What isn't soluble in ethanol?

    Did the provider actually tell you their product should dissolve in ethanol/perfumers alcohol?

    Take a picture of your problem, send it to them...
    explain the situation. I`m sure they can explain...
  74. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    I think the more advanced you get,
    You may become more specific about certain procedures in perfumery.
    You may become more specific about weights, measurements, sourcing very good materials. ...
  75. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    A typical “nest,” might be;
    Galaxolide
    Exaltolide
    Hedione
    Hedione HC
    Lyral
    Benzyl Salyscilate

    Making up 70% of a formula.
    The “nesting,” would support an accord of rose, jasmine and...
  76. Replies
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    Re: Ophira 50 Accord

    Yes, coumarin crystals.
    100% coumarin.

    250 refers to "parts.
    For example, if you make 10 grams total. It will be 2.5 grams of coumarin.
    It certainly is a lot of coumarin. Still, trust...
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    Re: Filter material help

    Your method is very good.
    I have used it, and I like it a lot.

    Crystal clear!
  78. Replies
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    Ophira 50 Accord

    Hi all.
    This accord "Ophira 50," from TGSC - written by Louis Appel



    250.00 vetiveryl acetate 250.00 100%
    250.00 alpha-isomethyl ionone (50% min.) 250.00 100%
    175.00 bergamot oil bergaptene...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Perfume - how to improve longevity?

    Formula for a long lasting Bergamot-type Accord.


    200.00 DIHYDROMYRCENOL 200.0 100%
    140.00 HEDIONE® (Firmenich) 140.0 100%
    80.00 CITRON 171 (Firmenich) (lemon) 80.0 100%
    80.00 TERPENYL...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Perfumerslab.com -- Small beginnings

    Thank you so much, this is helpful.
    I appreciate your time, and sharing this with our community.
    Supper appreciative!
    Matthew
  81. Re: Late night thoughts of bonding us together

    Matthew from Vancouver.

    Managed family fruit orchard until 25.
    Peaches, apricots, Chinese/Korean pears, various rare species of apples (40 varieties)
    plums, flowers from Holland, honey...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Dilution % for aroma chemicals

    Dana,
    How do you know when Hedione has gone bad?
    I have 1 bottle thats 2 years old. 1 bottle brand new.
    The older bottle smells a bit stronger, but nearly the same as my new bottle.

    What do...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Dilution % for aroma chemicals

    1). dilute all materials to 10% at first
    *PURPOSE = to see how strong or how weak each material is, in comparison to the others.
    You need common dilution in order to gage, to measure and compare...
  84. Re: Can adding Iso-e-Super/Timberslik/Amborax to a perfume can make the perfume stronger?

    Adding
    Iso-e-Super, which is...sweet, slightly musky, cedar/sandalwood.
    Will make a perfume smell more like sweet, slightly musky, cedar/sandalwood.

    Adding
    Timberslik, which is dry cedar...
  85. Replies
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    Re: The Smell of Communism

    "Smells like Soviet spirit: a brief history of perfume and cosmetics"
    The Guardian Article
    ...
  86. Replies
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    Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    Amber accords can be as complex or as simple as you like.
    I have a couple of amber-like accords; warm, sweet and powdery...
    That is made of 40 or more materials.

    To meet your goals, I suggest ...
  87. Replies
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    Re: The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    Allow me to explain myself.
    Musks, in an abstract way, remind me of impressionism...

    Before impressionism, you had realism.
    Before musks, you had essential oils, and attars.

    Realist...
  88. Replies
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    The Wonderful world, and theory of musks

    Lately I`ve been working with a lot of musks...
    Having a lot of success with musk, both floral and woody, with green-floral/muguet material combinations. Example: galaxolide, hedione, iso-e-super...
  89. Replies
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    Re: What happens during maceration?

    Your oils should COMPLETELY dissolve into your perfumers alcohol immediately.
    there are a couple of weird materials, I`ve noticed that ylang ylang tends to be milky...
    But other than that, I do...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone - Nobody can smell it.

    I`m very lucky as I haven`t discovered a single material which I can not smell.
    that said, I can barely perceive some musks, but **I have learned to smell them over time**
    It`s definitely possible!...
  91. Replies
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    Re: What happens during maceration?

    The French and Italians also put their perfumes into piles of hay,
    which.... as you may know, warms up as the hay rots.

    But then again, some others swear by keeping their perfumes in cool, dark...
  92. Re: Help fill in the olfactory study blanks - Jean Carles

    Yes, I agree George.
    Did this one in a hurry.
    I stand corrected.
  93. Re: Help fill in the olfactory study blanks - Jean Carles

    I fill in the 3rd study

    9th, 3rd study
    Cis 3 Hexenol

    11th, 3rd study
    wintergreen

    17th, 3rd study
    Peach Natural by Robertet
  94. Replies
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    I learn a lot by copying formulas I find online.
    I make 30 grams total.

    I divide this 30 grams into 10 parts.
    3 grams each.
    Part 1 is kept "as is."
    This first part is kept for future...
  95. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    I agree Julian.
    But there`s ideology involved here.
    Like arguing with someone about religion...
    They are going to stick to their guns, and fit the world into their belief system.
  96. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    And there are billions of people on this planet.
    Each one of them unique, each one of them potentially allergic to something.

    In conclusion, everything has the potential to be dangerous.
    But we...
  97. Re: Discussing the mechanics behind crafting a formula

    One each of my material bottles, I have written

    1). how long the material lasts (basically this is vapour pressure)

    2). it`s relative strength (1 to 10, 1 = transparent, 10 very powerful)
    ...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Scale comparison

    iBalance is good.

    I recommend i-balance scales.
    Matt
  99. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    Aslo,

    Please be aware of psychological reaction to perceived "harmful," substances.
    The power of suggestion can cause adverse reactions...

    Example,
    Some of these synthetic substances are...
  100. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    Thanks so much for the links everyone.

    In conclusion, I see that both synthetic and natural materials can BOTH be unhealthy.
    I suppose it`s all a matter of "to what degree."
    Truth be told, an...
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