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  1. Re: Best long-lasting high-end luxury niche citrus?

    Seconding Azemour les Oranger, an excellent citrus chypre.
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    Re: New(ish) fragrances with floral notes?

    Not sure how new they need to be, but off the top of my head:
    Hermes: Twilly
    Chanel: no 5 l'eau
    Estee Lauder: Modern Muse
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    Re: Cuir Cannage appreciation thread

    I do like it a lot too. A very elegant floral leather that's as classic as it gets and works perfectly.

    I myself prefer stronger leathers like Leather oud or, among florals, Knize Ten. Relative to...
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    Re: Looking for fall/winter suggestions

    Warm things that come to mind include
    Chanel Egoiste (woody, creamy)
    A Men or some flanker like Pure Malt

    cacio
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    Re: Request : Woody oriental, creamy and airy

    CDG2 man is incense + vetiver. Vetiver + creamy base there are a few I can think of. Not sure about creamy incense.
  6. Re: Random Wondering: Am I severely adverse to the scent of Almonds due to...

    We can be hypersensitive to pretty much any material, whether it's poisonous or not. So it's certainly possible.

    I have not had the misfortune to smell cyanide, so cannot say. I believe there is...
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    Re: Cheap and Effective EDT

    My vote for Azzaro too. Not as good as the original version of years ago, but still very good and versatile.
  8. Re: Best "value for money" scents, which niche collectors wouldn't turn their noses up at

    The Caron trio, as said (Pour un homme, Troisieme, Yatagan)
    Chanel pour monsieur edt (edt only, not available in US)
    Chanel Egoiste
    Chanel Antaeus
    Guerlain Vetiver
    Dior Homme (edt and main...
  9. Re: Chanel Eau de Cologne: was it ever reformulated?

    I bought a 400ml in the earlier batches. Then the 400ml bottle disappeared, and reappeared for a Christmas season a couple of years ago, when I bought another. Not sure whether it was a new batch or...
  10. Re: Chanel Eau de Cologne: was it ever reformulated?

    I bought the original then bought again a 400 ml bottle two years ago and they smell the same.
  11. Re: Collectors: what, why, & how; and do you ever think you might be 'addicted'?

    Addiction is a rather strong word...

    I started collecting after I read a book and then got interested. I like to smell things and learn.
    I use the perfumes, but with a collection of 200+, each...
  12. Re: I needed to smell Interlude Man on someone else

    Indeed, the right amount of perfume for when one is outside and doesn't have people leaning close by is not the same as that for an enclosed space, especially for big perfumes like Interlude.

    A bn...
  13. Re: I needed to smell Interlude Man on someone else

    Interlude is strong, but that person must have sprayed really a lot (like 10 sprays)

    cacio
  14. Thread: Dior in Paris

    by cacio
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    Re: Dior in Paris

    Perhaps you can try sending an email first, to check.

    However, if they are available anywhere, I also think that this would be either Lafayette/Printemps, the av Montaigne boutique, or the new...
  15. Re: What i can´t miss in Paris? Olfactory tour, buying bargains (if it exists)!

    Seconding what others were saying. If you happen to be in town when the osmotheque has a smelling conference, that's a good opportunity (provided you speak french.

    Bargain is not easy to come by....
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    Re: My bottle of Terre d'Hermès has gone bad

    Welcome!

    Perfume can certainly go bad but not this quickly. Perhaps, as brooks was saying, it's more a case of nose fatigue. Put it aside for a while and revisit later. Also, perfumes seem much...
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    Re: Patchouli 24 Feedback

    One never knows... but a single application on wrist (which can get dry quickly) hopefully is not representative.
  18. Re: Jane Birkin on her mother's Schiaparelli Shocking

    Envious of your bottle!

    If l'air de rien was reformulated, then this explains why I find it meh. I agree that Shocking has a honey note, not the current fruity syrups, but dirty honey, which adds...
  19. Thread: Guerlain Derby

    by cacio
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    Re: Guerlain Derby

    I smelled a tester a couple of years ago and found it very good too. Once in a while, a perfume that survived in a good state.

    The bottle is ugly, but it doesn't matter.

    cacio
  20. Re: Jane Birkin on her mother's Schiaparelli Shocking

    Thanks for the link!

    Shocking was a glorious perfume, very musky and unique. Probably half of its content would now be unavailable or forbidden.

    L'air de rien is much much less daring (and...
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    Re: Patchouli based Masculine scents.

    Seconding Mazzolari Lui for a very macho thing (musks, patch, woods, leather)-but it is definitely less refined that givenchy.
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    Re: Le Labo's Vanille 44 vs. Gaiac 10

    Interesting, I don't find Guaiac cloying or intense at all. On the contrary, it feels like light (but persistent) dry woods (unlike santal, which I find very coconutty).
  23. Thread: Some battle.

    by cacio
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    Re: Some battle.

    Interlude is darker and more spicy, but Epic is more incensy.

    Rien incense intense is Rien + incense, so I guess it works better for you. But they are quite close.

    cacio
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    Re: Refined Citrus Leathers

    Guerlain Derby is very classic and refined.
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    I tried the vetiver some time ago and somehow didn't go to my to buy list. I don't remember the details, but I usually prefer my vetivers very fresh and zingy,and this one wasn't.
  26. Re: Good guides on decanting perfume without damaging bottle?

    Just spraying into the atomizer (the first method in the video) should work well and spraying doesn't damage the original bottle. No need to try syringes or the like. As the video says, a little of...
  27. Re: What do these three fragrances have in common?

    I also perceive them as quite different, so perhaps it's some material to which you are hypersensitive.

    Iso-E smells woody and dry, a bit synthetic. Labdanum is an amber, warm and sweetish. Or...
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    Re: Anyone Tried These?

    True, Hermes seems to be on a price league of its own when talking about leather.

    And in fact, I got curious and googled Hermes candle- and here we go, $740 for a (little) leather candle holder...
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    Re: Anyone Tried These?

    Ultravisitor:

    Gucci croc bags used to cost $30K+. But I think the designer recently decided not to use croc anymore (for environmental reasons, but perhaps they didn't sell that many after all)
    ...
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    Re: Anyone Tried These?

    People who can spend $30K for a purse may well spend $600 for a candle.

    Anyway, I assume there is a Gucci store in SF, so one can satisfy one's curiosity.

    cacio
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    Re: Best Floral Fragrance?

    Too many. Having to vote one, vintage Joy.
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    Re: Anyone Tried These?

    Agree with Ultravisitor. I smelled them at the boutique. Mostly pleasant, but nothing really jumped out at me, and not worth that price. Cute bottles, but I'd rather put the money towards buying...
  33. Re: Amouage Jubilation XXV or Amouage Reflection Man

    My vote for Jub XXV-more unique I'd say.
  34. Re: Looking for perfume recommendations for my girlfriend

    There's a lot of fruit in current mainstream perfumes for women. Adding Chanel no 5 l'eau, coco mademoiselle, Guerlain la petite robe noir, Armani Si'.
  35. Re: Which two non-niche affordable fragrances would you add to bring my collection to six?

    For hot an humid weather, I always think about vetivers, which smell green and fresh. Mainstream examples are the Guerlain and the Carven.

    Bel Ami is very good and classic, but as said it's...
  36. Re: Caron not in compliance, will be destroying stock soon

    My reaction is the same as thrilledchilled.

    If they were noncompliant and still so bad, it is a sign of exemplary incompetence.

    cacio
  37. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    I like the description of the lactonic peachy note-in some perfume this can be overbearing for me, like being pushed clotted cream in the throat.
    Usually, that doesn't happen to me with Mitsouko,...
  38. Re: The Perfumed Echoes: Société des Parfums Lucien Lelong

    Thanks for the topic. This is a house I don't know much about, an have been curious.

    Luca Turin was very positive on Elle elle, saying that Mendittorosa's Le Mat resembles it.

    cacio
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    Re: Masculine Hazelnut fragrance?

    I think that the drydown of New York Intense (the intense one, not the regular one) has a nutty, praline aspect.

    In general, I concur that the combination of tonka, vanilla, and some woods can...
  40. Re: Obscure vintage masterpieces - what do you think they are?

    Luca Turin has spoken highly of Verfaillie Grain de Sable (and de folie as well), and I agree. With some patience, it can still be had for little.

    Also, while they are not obscure in any way, I...
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    Re: Best Male Oakmoss fragrance

    Ironically, Mousse illumine smells more like a fougere than a chypre to me. Not that old fougeres didn't have oakmoss...
  42. Re: What are the sexiest fragrances from Maison Francis Kurkdjian?

    It used to be the Absolue pour le soir by far, but I think it has been discontinued. I second Cologne pour le soir. Rather tame compared to the Absolue, but still has some nice warm ambers.

    cacio
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    Re: Do people still care about Bond No.9?

    I have stopped paying attention long ago. I own a couple. I too did see some at Marshall's last year, but didn't buy.
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    Re: Auphorie Musc Oud Maharaja

    I guess with new marketing possibilities, synthetic can now be referred to as vegan.
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    Re: Auphorie Musc Oud Maharaja

    I've had two orders with them and they went well. As for the prices, they had low prices relative to most niche houses, so I guess they decided they could jack up a bit.
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    Re: What's happening with Parfum D'Empire???

    It's true that I have never been able to find it in the US, but I got mine abroad (Jovoy in Paris).

    cacio
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    Re: Auphorie Musc Oud Maharaja

    Resurrecting because Auphorie came up with a second oud, Chypre Oud Maharani (as expected after a Maharaja). It's described as oud and oakmoss. Now, if there is a non-IFRA compliant quantity of...
  48. Re: Issues with seasonal allergies and sense of smell

    To those who are reporting continuous sneezing, I have found that otc histamines of the older varieties are more effective at treating watery eyes and runny noses, though they don't last much, unlike...
  49. Re: Which Caron for a blind buy, based on these existing preferences ?

    I'd say troisieme is as cultured and sophisticated as Eau Sauvage.
    But I'd define pour un homme as even more classic and sophisticated. As others have said, this is simple and that's the charm....
  50. Re: Which Caron for a blind buy, based on these existing preferences ?

    Given your preferences, I think all three would do. Having to choose, I'd say Pour un homme. Lavender and vanilla, very classic, it will complement classics like Eau Sauvage of pour monsieur. Also,...
  51. Re: Issues with seasonal allergies and sense of smell

    Sorry to hear of the problems! I hope you get better soon.

    I am allergic to grasses too, but only nose and eyes, I've never had throat symptoms. Simple over the counter medications work well for...
  52. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    Mimosa and heliotrope have many similarities.
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    Re: Thoughts on vintage Poison?

    This is a reference 1980s big shouldered perfume, supposed to be smelled from blocks away. Sweet tuberose on steroids.
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    Re: Osmotheque conferences

    Tuesday oct 15 Osmotheque conference on jasmine
    by Daniel Joulain

    The osmotheque proposes a thematic conference on jasmine grandiflorum, essential flower of perfumery. [my note: another sign that...
  55. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    This is a bit of the problem for current Tabac Blond. Nice and boring is not the way a daring, drama, reference perfume should smell like. But there's so much one can do without the bite of birch tar.
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    Re: Just need a couple of recommendations.

    Is $200 the desired budget?
    I'd say
    A freshie: Guerlain Vetiver
    An all rounder: Dior Homme
    A warmer one: Chanel Egoiste
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    Re: Vintage Arpege: To buy or not to buy?

    I'd say it is unisex, but then I have no problems wearing pefumes marketed to women. If I were to compare it to something, I'd say it's a bit like Chanel no 5 with less soap and more wood. So more...
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    I don't know some of these well, so hard to say.
    But tonka usually becomes more evident in the drydown. It is sweetish, sometimes recalls hay or dry tobacco.
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    Re: Which types of fragrance am I missing?

    Pretty versatile collection.
    I was thinking too something that's big, or slightly challenging, if you want to make a statement. So in your list I'd say M7. Or as hednic was saying, an incense (like...
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    Re: Under 50€ for school

    In Italy, Erbolario Meharees is very cheap. Not sure about the rest of Europe.
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    Re: The Venerable House of Rochas

    Thanks for the descriptions. This is a house I have not explored much in vintage. I've tried an old Monsieur aftershave and it is very nice, dry and as you point out not barbershoppy.

    Shootout...
  62. Re: Can anyone identify what’s on Sean’s shelf?

    Good taste. And I too miss good accompanying products.
  63. Thread: Going to Paris!

    by cacio
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    Re: Going to Paris!

    The same shops above are still there. Printemps and Lafayette have redone their perfumery dept and they are even more upscale.

    Parfums d'empire had a few nice things (eg Azemour, Musc tonkin-the...
  64. Re: A newbie smells Frédéric Malle for the first time

    My favorite is vetiver extraordinaire, superfresh and zingy. I am one of those who like florals and love PoaL. I also love Eau de Magnolia, sort of an alternative citrus made out of magnolia, but not...
  65. Re: Boldest designer or mainstream scents - what are or were they?

    Adding Mugler too. Especially on the feminine side, Angel. Now of course it's totally mainstream, but it was rally bold back then.
  66. Re: Vintage Chanel Perfumes & Colognes Discussion Thread

    I think the coiffan citation makes good points about no 5. the first hit was nitromusks already several years ago. Then sandalwood became scarce. And more recently, restrictions on jasmine, and with...
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    Re: Question for Dior Homme Intense owners

    As others said, 3 seems fine in the winter, but I can see in Vegas's heat.
    Spraying under clothes projects less than on exposed neck.

    cacio
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    Re: Le Labo is trash...

    The ones you cite aren't my favorite either. Not trash, but I didn't buy at the price.

    But I do love others, including Patchouli, Ylang Ylang, Oud, and Iris.
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    Re: A creamy Woody for winter

    Creamy makes me think more along the lines of Egoiste.
  70. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    L'Avion and Heure Bleue-interesting.... but they both had some sort of anisic-violet note.

    I think the name Farnesiana comes from a species of acacia (mimosa/heliotropin), named after the Farnese...
  71. Thread: Vintage Dior

    by cacio
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    Re: Vintage Dior

    Lovely bottles! I have the parfum vials of Diorella as well as Diorissimo. Diorissimo in vintage parfum is glorious. Clearly a muguet, but without hints of floor cleaners. Vivid up top, almost like...
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    The bottles look like the ones on the website.
    That's my first purchase of full bottles from the zoo, I assume the bottles always came in a pouch.

    cacio
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    Re: Why I cant find the perfect scent ?

    Welcome!

    From your likes, I think you should try other houses doing more complex and rich perfumes (even if they are expensive). Example would be Amouage (Epic, Interlude, etc).

    cacio
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    Forgot to mention. The perfumes came not in a box, but in a black felt pouch, with the name sewn as a label. (The pouches have The Zoo printed on them, but it's black on black so it's hard to see).
    ...
  75. Re: Tom Ford Ombre Leather 18 vs AdP Colonia Leather

    My vote for colonia leather. It's drier, it has some citrus, perhaps it's a bit sharper and more brutalistic, but that's the interest there.

    cacio
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    Re: How do certain activities affect performance

    Higher temperatures make molecules evaporate more and faster, so hot and sweaty means that one is projecting a lot more (eg when exercising at the gym). this may in turn decrease longevity, if...
  77. Thread: House of Caron

    by cacio
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    Re: House of Caron

    The three classic masculines are gorgeous and still in a great conditions.

    For the feminines, I agree with Zilpha. In the past, many were glorious, especially in parfum concentration. Caron was...
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    Re: Classy, non-oriental fruit frags?

    Many examples in niche or expensive lines, less so in mainstream, where fruit tends to go straight into syrup.
    Things that come to mind are Chanel No 5 Eau premiere, which has a hint of fruit, or...
  79. Re: Reformulations....... are they always a "less than" vintage?

    1. Pre-reformulation, or, as others were saying, old (20 years?)
    2. I vaguely remember a thread on this, but not sure. Cannot think of anything in particular-IFRA makes things difficult. There are...
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    I have not tried that, so clearly I have to.

    In no perfume, as it goes, the strength of the smoke goes down a bit, but it remains there. Burnt wood and leather.

    In this shipment, I also bought...
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    Got my blind buy, No perfume. The opening is burnt plastic, quite potent. After 15 min it's shifting to burnt wood and campfire.
  82. Re: Paper or cardboard smell in vintage Coriandre

    Glad the note goes away. Unfortunately, top notes can turn easily. Wet cardboard is a common off note in wine as well (from tainted corks).

    cacio
  83. Re: Paper or cardboard smell in vintage Coriandre

    Not an expert on this. Wet cardboard is a common off note in perfumes. Dusty can also be an off note. Not sure about dried carbodard-paper.

    cacio
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    Re: Older fragrances with prominent birch tar

    All the great classic leathers. Caron Tabac Blond had plenty of bite. Chanel Cuir de Russie also had birch tar (at least in the parfum reconstruction I smelled at the osmotheque-the quality was less...
  85. Re: Noob with particular tastes seeking recommendations

    Welcome!

    It does seem you like leathers and dark materials. If you get the chance to look into niche perfumes, I recommend one of the darkest and most animalic leathers, Rien by Etat Libre...
  86. Re: Patchouli 24 / Lonestar Memories, are they similar to Bvlgari Black?

    I agree on the wearability of patch 24. by chance, somebody was spraying it on himself in the gym locker room last week, and smelled from a distance it was stark but perfectly presentable. (In this...
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    Re: What fragrances remind you of Christmas/Winter?

    In addition to the above mentioned La fille en aguille and Egoiste, I'm also thinking warm gourmands like Lubin Korrigan.
  88. Re: Anyone here ever wash shoes in the washing machine?

    Gym shoes? gym shoes can usually be washed in a washing machine. Avoid high temperatures which can melt plastic parts. Some people put the shoes in laundry bags to give a little protection. I would...
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    Re: Fall/Winter Vanilla fragrance

    Hermes Vanille Galante. Or that well known classic, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille.
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    Re: Recommend me an orange citrus frag?

    No strong woody amber in the drydown of Azemour (unlike Citron noir...). Azemour recalls old greenish-citrus chypres.
  91. Re: Patchouli 24 / Lonestar Memories, are they similar to Bvlgari Black?

    The similarity is that all three employ leathery-smoky notes to great effect. I concur with sjg that Bulgari Black is more about rubber (and feels plusher), while the le labo is more about tar, and...
  92. Re: What time period do you consider "The Golden Age" of Fragrances?

    Like diamond, I'd also say the 1920s.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Recommend me an orange citrus frag?

    I second Azemour. It recalls old chypres, and has a green note that I like a lot.

    (Alpona was an old citrus chypre too, but given Caron's downward spiral, I doubt it is in a decent state, if still...
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    Re: Aramis Tuscony is it better then Azzaro pH ?

    In current form, I prefer Tuscany, which smells more natural (if a bit weak). Current Azzaro is a bit synthetic to my nose.
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    Re: are there resins with less sweetness?

    The notes I know under the "resins and balsams" entry tend to be either very sweet, or very bitter, almost burnt (like birch tar or coal tar).
    Frankincense is probably closest, but I don't think...
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    Re: Need Recommendations for Three Aunts

    Definitely fresh and good for the heat.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    On the website, I noticed two perfumes I had not seen before. Has anybody smelled them?

    No perfume: described wood leather smoke incognito-so very interesting. Also apparently contains an...
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    Re: Frag Newbie ... What Should I Do Next?

    (1 + 2 ) Actually, the perfume industry is heavily regulated. EU laws are pretty strict and the industry follows them (they don't formulate things differently in different countries), and the...
  99. Re: Fig or Sandalwood body butter or creme or lotion recommendation

    Diptyque has a body lotion of Philosykos, its fig perfume.
  100. Thread: What next

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: What next

    Seconding Egoiste, if you like some sweetness.
    Or a darker patchouli, like A*men
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