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    Re: New Fragrance: Ayala Moriel - Orcas

    Aww - thank you! How did you like Etrog Oy de Cologne?
  2. Oh my goodness. What a bold move! Great...

    Oh my goodness. What a bold move!
    Great initiative on Penhaligons' as well. Way to go!
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    Re: New Fragrance: Ayala Moriel - Orcas

    Thank you for all the kind words about Orcas!
    Hope those of you who tried it enjoyed it :-)
    Next week the new Orcas candle is going into production! It was a bit nerve-wrecking formulating it and...
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    Re: When is a Fougère not a Fougère?

    I was not implying you don't know that stuff, I posted it for the benefits of other members and readers.
    And my point re the linalol content is that what gives a Fougere it's special character is...
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    Re: Handbook, any suggestions?

    I second the Calkin and Jellinek book. Must read. Chemistry of Fragrance might not be as useful for learning composition though. And Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy is a great starting point.
    If...
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    Re: Best Overall DIY Book

    My book covers natural essences only, but you can apply the same principles of blending, dilutions, etc. to synthetics. It reveals more than most perfumers share in their courses, primarily about...
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    Re: When is a Fougère not a Fougère?

    Fougere heavily relies on the harmony between coumarin, lavender, oakmoss and linalol. It's that accord that creates the archetypical foguere scents. This is when knowing a little something about the...
  8. Thread: Opoponax?

    by Ayala
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    Re: Opoponax?

    Gourmand won't be the most obvious use for opoponax - it's a resin related to myrrh, and similar to myrrh but sweeter (even called sweet myrrh by some), and it lends itself readily to spicy oriental...
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    Re: making a water perfume?

    I wonder if it's not sulfated castor oil he's referring to... AKA Turkey Red Oil. It disperses in water perfectly. Just not a very nice material to work with and I'm not entirely sure if it's safe or...
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    Re: why aren't my perfumes working :(

    My suggestions are:
    1) For oil bases, increase concentration, as the oil decreases the silage of the scent (meaning: it doesn't lift it and disperse it like alcohol does). Also, please consider...
  11. What devastating news. Mona di Orio was such a...

    What devastating news. Mona di Orio was such a talented, beautiful woman and too young to die!
    I'm so saddened by this loss to perfume community and to those close to her.
  12. Re: #4 Toronto/GTA Fragrance meetup, SUNDAY July 24th 12pm noon at Noor - Be There!

    Wish I could attend, but I'm in Vancouver.
    Have fun!
    I'll be there in spirit :-)
  13. P.s. I'm sure you won't be shocked to learn that...

    P.s. I'm sure you won't be shocked to learn that I love whole wheat pasta ;-)
  14. Dear Walker, Thank you so much for a wonderful...

    Dear Walker,
    Thank you so much for a wonderful article!
    Hopefully I'll get to meet you in person when visit Vancouver next :-)

    Dear Basenoters,
    Thank you so much for the wonderful comments and...
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    Re: Closest natural civet substitute?

    African Stone Tincture smells a lot like civet AND castoreum combined. The neat thing about it is that it's absolutely cruelty free. So you get that deep leathery quirkiness and at the same time also...
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    Re: Vetiver Varieties

    Elf,
    Thanks for reading!
    I will sure let you know... So far the only thing I've done with it was brewing it into a tea. Tasted like dirt-tea. Not that I ever had that before.
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    Re: Dissolving jojoba oil

    Nope, that won't do. Fatty oils won't mix with water or alcohol for that matter.
    The exception is Turkey Red Oil (sulfonated castor oil) which disperses in water and is used in most of the...
  18. Thread: creamy

    by Ayala
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    Re: creamy

    Vanilla, tonka, orris butter, massoia bark, coconut absolute, butter CO2
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    Re: Vetiver Varieties

    Like all natural raw material, the conditions and local it was grown in and how it was distilled or processed really affects the final result. But even more so in vetiver - it really reflects the...
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    Re: how to read formulations

    The formulation gives you the ratio. They usually are designed by weight, not volume, because weight (or mass, really...) is more reliable than volume (which is subject to changes in temperature, to...
  21. Thread: Tuberose Candle

    by Ayala
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    Re: Tuberose Candle

    Second that one! It smells a lot like a bouquet of tuberoses after nightfall.
    Also have you tried my White Potion candle? It's soft and creamy, not so heady, with the additional notes of coconut...
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    Re: Best Candles for Under $30

    Gabriel's Aunt candles are all under $30 (and under-priced in my opinion). They are all made of soywax which is very long lasting and are scented only with natural essences. The scents are fun and...
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    Re: SotD Friday 1st January 2010: New Year's Day

    Happy New Year everyone!
    Vanille Galante today. Even though it's another rainy Vancouver day - remembering how much I liked this one in 2009 made me crave it this morning.
    May this coming year...
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    Re: Favourite winter fragrances

    Happy New Year everyone!
    This winter I've been wearing quite a bit of Tea for Two and also some Bvlgari Black (which is similar...). I'm still waiting for the snow to come though, so I can wear my...
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    Re: The best Jardin of Hermés?

    Un Jardin Apres La Mousson is the only one that got my attention. It's so different from anything else before it with that strange cantaloupe blast at first and the spices and vetiver dryout.
    Un...
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    Re: Guerlain: Tonka Impériale

    Tonka is such a Guerlain signature note. I'm curious to sniff how this would turn out.
  27. Re: Sampled Hermes Kelly Caleche EdP and Parfum today

    Interesting to see so many varying opinions on the different formulations.
    For me, the berry opening in the EdT was overwhelming. Thankfully, it does not last long and turns into a green iris-rose...
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    Re: IUNX Paris to close?

    It used to be its own independent boutique (kind of like Salons Shiseido) but closed and is now at the Hotel Costes. I'm sure to pay them a visit in a couple of weeks when I'm on my way to Grasse.
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    Re: Ayala Moriel - Hanami

    Thank you, Redneck Perfumisto!

    Here's the official Hanami image and also a link to the description and notes:

    http://ayalamoriel.com/index.cfm?PageName=Scents&View=Details&PerfumeID=62
  30. Re: Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    Asha,
    Sorry you missed the event. The good news though: you can come to Blunda anytime and there are several new perfumes added to the staple collection that has been there for the past 2 years...
  31. Re: Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    Thanks for your support Michelyn! So glad you like Fetish :-)
  32. Re: Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    Wow, this is incredible! I feel so honoured you picked Hanami for the ikebana show. Will you show us some photos? It must have been very beautiful.

    And I really like the notion of waiting to...
  33. Re: Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    You're most welcome, Mike!
    And thanks for your continuous support here at Basenotes.
    It really wouldn't have been the same without you great people!
    Special thanks to Grant and Danielle :-)
  34. Re: Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    Hope to see you tomorrow, Ali!
    There will be a presentation at 2:30 about the inspiration of Hanami including breakdown of the notes for you to smell.

    And thanks for posting the address for...
  35. Blunda Perfume Exhibitions, Series of 8 Perfume Events in Los Angeles

    Blunda in Los Angeles is running a series of eight Natural Botanical Perfume Exhibitions
    http://www.blundaaromatics.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=50
    which began last month with Laurie...
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    Re: IUNX Paris to close?

    Thank you, Ascella!
  37. Replies
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    Re: IUNX Paris to close?

    I will be visiting Paris this May and would like to locate IUNX. Can anyone confirm their whereabouts and any other recommendations and perfume destinations for my trip?
    I checked the Paris thread...
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    Sticky: Re: Note Identification Project - Please Join In!

    Linalool is present in several herbs but is at its highest concentrations in rosewood, ho-wood and ho leaf.
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    Re: Policy change - consumer reviews on Basenotes

    I totally fell for it for the first 30 seconds, oh, that would have been horrible! Only positive reviews would be so useless!

    Grant, even if I spend the entire year trying to figure out how to...
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    Re: Has anyone smelled plain vetiver?

    Caesar,

    I wouldn't recommend making any assumptions on the nature of a singular note based on how it is perceived in perfumes out there - not only because the scent in its natural form is...
  41. Re: Cinnamon - The lists, the scents and the recommendations - 2008 edition

    If you are looking for cinnamon the perfume with the most pronounced note of it in my collection is Immortelle l'Amour, which features notes of cinnamon CO2 - a distillation that is very fresh and...
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    Re: Finding a signature scent for my mother

    I honestly can't think of a better carnation scent than Bellodgia and Poivre - why won't you just get her a pure parfum from the Caron store in New York? They take orders by phone. The only downside...
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    Poll: Re: LADIES ONLY! How do You Count Your Wardrobe?

    Bottles only, however I do count minis for pure parfums (i.e.: Chanel's 5ml pure parfums). Since it's not that much smaller than the smallest "official" size of parfum (7.5ml) I figured it counts as...
  44. Thread: Gucci No.3

    by Ayala
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    Gucci No.3

    Can anyone please describe how Gucci No.3 smells like?
    Any perfumes it is similar to?
    Looking at the notes in some sites (the notes are not provided here at the Basenotes fragrance directory for...
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    Re: Hi guys, your opinions please...

    Musky Monkey -
    Do you care to describe ho Guci No.3 smells? Any perfumes it is similar to?
    Since this is discontinued, I haven't had the opportunity to smell it, and now I need to know...
    Thank...
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    Re: Low Sillage Fragrances

    Agent Provocateur, I'm so sorry to hear about that experience! Unfortunately, Canada is becoming quite unfriendly to perfumes, more than any other country. Most work places ask their staff to avoid...
  47. Thread: Natural Musks?

    by Ayala
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    Re: Natural Musks?

    Vegetale musks are musks from botanical origin - neither synthetics nor animalic. You can read my article about it on SmellyBlog:...
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    Re: SotD Sunday 28 October

    Schizm by day, Nuit de Noel at night.
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    Re: Jo Malone anyone?

    The first one and the only one I completely fell for is Vintage Gardenia. Right after that is Black Vetyver Cafe, though I rarely wear it along. I usually add it with the gardenia to add spice and...
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    Re: SotD Sunday 28 October

    I'm wearing Nuit de Noel parfum.
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    Re: Question about orange flower

    Neroli is the essential oil of orange blossom (from the bitter orange tree); while orange flower usually refers to the absolute. There is also another kind of orange flower absolute, extracted from...
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    Re: The bespoke process

    Dimitri,
    I'm flattered that you consider my bespoke perfume services!
    Just to let you know, if you prefer an EDP it is possible to have a larger bottle. The creme parfum jewelry is not for...
  53. Thread: Ormonde Jayne

    by Ayala
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    Re: Ormonde Jayne Frangipani

    My favourites from Ormonde Jayne are Ta'if and Champaca. Both have unusual edible notes - saffron, dates & pink pepper in Ta'if, and tea and basmati rice in Champaca. Oromonde for woman is stunning...
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    Re: Taking my nose to New Orleans perfumeries soon

    You'll have to smell Dark Gift than. Morticia Addams sent it to me and it's divine (in an earthly way). I think it's called custom blend though, you'll have to talk to them so they'll pull it out for...
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    Re: Aoud Lime suggestions please

    That's not me! It's alaya. We have a very similar name, how confusing!

    I've never was interested particularly in Aud Lime, but after your description of it I am bound to try it finally. I love...
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    Re: SotD Thursday 27 September

    Indigo creme parfum.
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    Re: Tom Ford global exclusive fragrances,1st Dubai

    Even more so, there is a long and rich perfume heritage, which people like Ford should respect and perhaps learn from rather than take advantage of. He cant even scrape the surface of the depth of...
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    Re: Chinatown, gender biased?

    It's a scent that does not go well with food in my opinion... From my experience, anyways.
    The gourmand there is more from the peach notes than the vanilla. To me what's dominant in Chinatown is the...
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    Re: SotD Wednesday 26 September

    Vetiver Racinettes
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    Re: Today I bought (September 2007)

    Poor you! You *only* had the extrait LOL!
    It's really hard to find - I only have the EDT and would love to hear how the extrait compares to it?

    The rest of the box is beautiful too - enjoy it,...
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    Re: Boozy notes in our scents - 2007 edition

    Vibert, have you tried Arsenal yet? It's my booziest fragrance by far, containing cognac absolute (yes, there is such a thing! Nothing could be boozier than that... I believe it's extracted from the...
  62. Thread: autumn foresty

    by Ayala
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    Re: autumn foresty

    Quite a few of them were reviewed here by Basenotes members:
    http://www.basenotes.net/house/102178
  63. Re: >>>> Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, June 2 >>>>CITRUS

    gloomy liv,
    I am so glad you are liking Fetish! It's my personal favourite citrus scent for the summer. If the alcohol based parfum extrait doesn't last long enough, you may benefit from trying the...
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    Re: Suggestions needed for young GF frag

    It's a sheer white floral with an amber and incense base (again, sheer). I mostly smell tuberose, orange blossom and an ambery-musky incense. It's very light on my skin. But I smelled it on another...
  65. Re: which fragrances are loved most/hated most by your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend

    Thanks for your curiousity Chris!
    l'Herbe Rouge is his signature fragrance, even though I created it before I met him. He just fell head over heels with it as soon as he smelled it (around the same...
  66. Thread: Most worn in May

    by Ayala
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    Re: Most worn in May

    Coralle and Songes.
    I think I'm into Ylang ylang!
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    Re: Looking for a prominent nutmeg note

    Hey Eisho!
    Good to see you again - Long time no see :)

    I smell plenty of nutmeg in Guerlain's vetiver. I am pretty sure you're already familiar with that one though...
    Than there is also Ginger...
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    Re: Vetiver for [a] dummy

    Guerlain's Vetiver is a good start. It's citrusy as well as vetiver-y, and is very likeable IMHO.
    So is Vetiver Extraordinaire from Frederic Malle, which is more of a "pure vetiver" scent, and very...
  69. Thread: Champaca

    by Ayala
    Replies
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    Re: Champaca

    That's one scent I did not manage to go through when I was in NYC. I sniffed it on a card and remember I liked it. But there was no more room on my skin (and no samples). I will have to try it next...
  70. Re: Chanel Bois Des Iles - for the (Gingerbread) man

    Simply because this is what the SA's at the Chanel boutique told me. The said Cuir de Russie, Bois des Isles and Gardenia will no longer be in the parfum, but No. 22 will be in the parfum (as well as...
  71. Thread: Champaca

    by Ayala
    Replies
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    1,793

    Re: Champaca

    Champaca is a large golden flowering tree from the magnolia family, and has a very unusual scent: with fruity hints of magnolia, and a deep spicy undertone of tea. Sometimes it has an almost minty...
  72. Re: Chanel Bois Des Iles - for the (Gingerbread) man

    That's precisely what the SA's at the Chanel boutique in Vancouver told me when I purchased the last Bois des Isles parfum they had in the shop. I honestly think these three are better in parfum...
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    Re: Has any basenoter a "bespoke" scent?

    Prices for bespoke perfumes vary greatly between houses. You can do a bit of research, but as far as I know it can start from around $200 in some small independent niche houses in North America and...
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    Re: Scents for a possible library job?

    Tabac Blond smells like a monastery's library to me, so that's the first one that springs to mind... It smells of old leather-bound books. The parfum has an incredible staying power, yet it is not a...
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    Re: A fresh fragrance for my sister?

    I have to agree. It's a fresh floral, even though it has those tenacious white floral notes. Must be the orange blossom and the light amber base that does it.

    I guess "fresh" chould mean a few...
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    Re: SotD Sunday 27 May

    Excellent choice, of course!
    This is has become one of my favourite scents ever!

    I am still wearing Samsara EDT (which I worn to bed last night) and am contemplating if to change to something...
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    Re: Perfume rings and pendants

    Hi Loukumi,
    Besides the pendants which were custom-made for Ayala Moriel, I also collect poison rings and other fillable interesting containers, and fill them with solid perfume. If you're...
  78. Thread: Amber alert...

    by Ayala
    Replies
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    569

    Re: Amber alert...

    Drzed,
    It may not be how many sprays you put on, but how long it took you to get to Starbucks after you sprayed them. It's usually best to wear the fragrance at least 30 minutes before leaving the...
  79. Re: which fragrances are loved most/hated most by your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend

    My special guy likes on me L de Lolita Lempicka, Spring Flower and Fleur d'Oranger. but for the most part, whatever I wear is fine by him...


    Which one???
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    Re: Geranium... any suggestions?

    Cabaret has loads of geranium
    http://ayalamoriel.com/perfumes.cfm?view=PRODUCT&cata_id=1&product_id=67
    and l'Herbe Rouge has less, and is more masculine...
  81. Re: Reviews: Kingdom & Ambre Canelle (warning- graphic!)

    These were interesting reviews, Indie ;)

    I can definitley see the female sexual reference in cumin, though in some cases it actually smells like male sweat. I thin in Kingdom it is very subtly...
  82. Thread: summer niche

    by Ayala
    Replies
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    Re: summer niche

    Fetish is my ultimate summer scent.
    http://ayalamoriel.com/perfumes.cfm?view=PRODUCT&cata_id=1&product_id=26
  83. Replies
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    Re: Forest / pine fragrance

    Hi Stewart,
    If you're looking for pine and foresty fragrances, I would be more than happy to send yous samples from my own line, I have three perfumes that have pine and forest notes as their...
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    Re: Most Exciting "Mainstream" Men's Scents

    Do you mean "Pour Monsieur"?
  85. Re: Why the "Musc Ravageur + Noir Epices" pairing?

    If I recal correctly, I told them I like Chypres and oriental skin-scents.
    I listed my favourites at the time, which included I believe Femme, Shalimar, Miss Dior and Parfum Sacre.
  86. Replies
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    Re: Jasmin / White flowers on male fragrances

    I agree with shifts, you'll have to either try feminine scents or go for niche lines that offer floral perfumes to both genders equally. If what you want is light and floral, I suggest Jo Malone. You...
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    Re: gardenia or simple creamy white flowers

    My favourite gardenia of them all is Jo Malone's Vintage Gardenia with Cardamom and Myrrh.
    http://ayalasmellyblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/vintage-gardenia.html
    It has the creaminess and floralness of...
  88. Re: Why the "Musc Ravageur + Noir Epices" pairing?

    Interesting that you say they are the most common pairing. I got the same suggestions from them too. But I had my mind so stuck on Le Parfum de Therese, that I asked them to include a sample of it...
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    Re: Is labdanum a dark note?

    It sort of is yet it isn't. There is nothing that truly smells like ambergris from the plant kingdom, in my opinion. Ambergris on its own smells very animalic - much like horse maneur if you ask...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Is labdanum a dark note?

    Great info so far on Labdanum. This is one of my favourite notes ever. I grew up around this precious plant so it strikes deep cords in me...

    Labdanum can be described as dark if you wish - but to...
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    Re: SotD Valentine's Day Monday Feb 14th

    Guilt perfume! And my hands are covered with the Guilt-flavoured chocoalte truffles I invented (scented with orange blossom absolute and Grand Marnier liquor, yum!). My hands have that earthy and...
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    Poll: Re: Your most beloved Lutens

    Where is Fleurs d'Oranger? And Muscs Kublai Khan? These are my favourites.
  93. Thread: Vetiver Scents

    by Ayala
    Replies
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    1,851

    Re: Vetiver Scents

    Lizzy,
    Hydrosol is the water left after distillation of a plant. It is more often than never that some of the aromachemicals are water-soluble, and they remain in the water. Rosewater and Orange...
  94. Thread: Vetiver Scents

    by Ayala
    Replies
    31
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    1,851

    Re: Vetiver Scents

    Hi Purplebird!
    Thanks for the link, it's great - and I didn't know about it!
    Something to read now...
    What a neat idea!
  95. Thread: Vetiver Scents

    by Ayala
    Replies
    31
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    1,851

    Re: Vetiver Scents

    Haven't tried Annick Goutal's Vetiver. It's not available at the only store that sells Goutals in Vancouver (The Bay). They also don't have Sables, Duel or Songes! What a shame...

    I need to try...
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    Re: Different kinds of Jasmine..

    Ok, I thought about some good jasmine examples.

    Fresh - i.e. hedionic:
    Le Parfum de Therese
    Eau Sauvage
    asDiorella

    Heady jasmine:
    Diorissimo (even though it's a Lily of th Valley...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Different kinds of Jasmine..

    Botanically speaking, the two most common jasmine species used in perfumery are Jasmin Grandiflorum and Jasmin Sambac. There is also Jasmine Auriculatum, which is less commonly used in perfumery, but...
  98. Replies
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    Re: hello from a newbie with a question

    There are many nowadays, it really depends on what you are looking for. Most independent perfumers nowadays offer these services. I recommend picking one that you like their style and philosophy (and...
  99. Replies
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    Re: hello from a newbie with a question

    If you shop around for Bespoke perfumes, you'll discover that this price is actually amongst the more reasonable ones. The price is not really much higher than ordering one bottle of pure parfum...
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    Re: Opium Summer Versions

    They are all different from the original Opium. If you want the original, than get the original ;)

    I believe it was 4 or 5 years ago, the summer version was called "Fraicheur d'Orient" and came in...
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