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  1. Replies
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    Re: Pre-fixing perfumers alcohol

    I guess I think it is unnecessary, or worse, will alter the accords in your perfume. If I want benzoin in my formula I put it in the formula. I think Luigi's point is the main one -- but even then I...
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    Re: Pre-fixing perfumers alcohol

    Sorry but could either of you explain why "pre-fixing" is necessary (and what it is?)
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    Re: fragrance of baby

    Not sure what you are trying to do vazhuar, copy the baby cologne you smelled or rather copy the smell of a baby? The latter has had some discussion in this forum although I don't recall when and...
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    Re: New shop for raw materials online!

    These are some exotic ingredients indeed Graphite, very interesting. I am having to look many of them up as I have never heard of them.
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    That's wonderful PERFUMKEV, welcome. I really hope you stick around. We have at least two professionally trained perfumers in the group that I know of, David and Irena and at least two self-trained...
  6. Re: Sampaquita accord formula ((Jasmine Sambac)

    jfrater how does your benzyl acetate natural compare to the synthetic one? can you tell a difference? Is it worth the price and trouble?
  7. Replies
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    Re: Mousse de Saxe

    I just want to say welcome to PERFUMKEV. We are extremely lucky to have a few professional perfumers here, from whom we learn tons, but the large majority of us are amateurs and so I hope you stick...
  8. Re: The smell of playdough - can you sniff some for me?

    I believe it is likely to be acetophenone
  9. Re: The smell of playdough - can you sniff some for me?

    I don't have any to smell either right now, but I did this a while back and to me it's all about the heliotropin.
  10. Replies
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    Re: Sandalwood Mysore Recreation

    On civet: I did quite a bit of research on this a while back and I wanted to purchase some directly from Ethiopia. I was fortunate to have a colleague who worked there at the time and who had the...
  11. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    Thanks for this report, very encouraging. I have ordered some too, but have not yet received it.
  12. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    I have found, assuming they have it in stock and it is in fact real, Flouve absolute: http://store.labo-hevea.com/A00171/anthoxanthum_odoratum_sweet_vernal_grass

    Anybody have experience buying...
  13. Thread: Civet paste

    by gecko214
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    Re: Civet paste

    This is also where I bought mine and it was of a high quality. I don't know if he is still doing it, but worth a try.
  14. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    It's Payan Bertrand, but I don't think they sell to individuals... Proxi sante buys from them, and he claims he made an inquiry but so far nothing...
  15. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    Of course I'm obsessing. Obsessing about ingredients is about 90% of what I do in this business.... and you're right, I probably should just bite the bullet and get the EO...
  16. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    Yes, and since I think I want the abs, not quite ready to spend that much just to smell it...
  17. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    yes I think is "same-same, but different"... it's the "but different" part that interests me. Maybe David can shed light?
  18. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    Re: Flouve

    Thanks Paul -- well until I've actually smelled it, not much -- like 20-30 grams I suppose, thus my need for retail quants...
  19. Thread: Flouve

    by gecko214
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    1,605

    Flouve

    I am trying to source Flouve absolute, does anyone know where it can be had retail? Perfumerssearch came up with nothing (Payan Bertrand make it and some MD versions, but will not sell small quants)....
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    Re: Mixture Suggestion HELP!!!!

    Well no, you don't need water in it, period. And you also probably don't need DPG. If you like the civet smell keep it, but you probably don't need that either. Just your FO and ethanol should do...
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    Re: Mixture Suggestion HELP!!!!

    Sasori you are winning points though, by not insisting on adding water :)
  22. Thread: Civet paste

    by gecko214
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    Re: Civet paste

    How much do you want? I could probably spare a few grams.
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    Re: Blond Leather Accord

    You might also want to check this out: Molecular distillation of leather: http://www.proxisante.com/fr/specialites/768-cuir-distillation-moleculaire.html I have some but I have not yet diluted it....
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    Re: Blond Leather Accord

    Boye look carefully through the various threads on DIY, a lot of discussion on leather has happened and that is a good place to start. Also, I think "blond" leather is more than likely just a...
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    I don't want to fan the flames here but I think on this board we are often faced with folks in the throws of the "Dunning–Kruger effect" (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect)...
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    Re: DIY Smelling Strips

    It's all good Jacinta, it just gave me a bit of a chuckle... :)
  27. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    The other one that is amazing is the bigardier heart; it is almost a perfume in itself.
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    Re: DIY Smelling Strips

    Well Jacinta I can imagine what was going through your mind: you're saying to yourself "I only get to make one first post at basenotes ever, so I think I'll go for thanking someone for a post about...
  29. Re: Need your Opinion- Should I Offer Robertet Naturals for Presale Perfumer Supply House

    I can confirm the cedrat heart is a gem, I have some from Proxisante and I love it.
  30. Re: Musk nonane (Oxalide T, 10-oxadecahexanolide, OHD musk)

    I can send you a small sample too Chris (I mean small, because they didn't send much) if you are interested, let me know by PM.
  31. Re: Musk nonane (Oxalide T, 10-oxadecahexanolide, OHD musk)

    I finally received the sample of this musk. Bill, PM me your address and I'll see you get a sample. My impressions: a pleasant warm round sweet animalic musk that reminds me of Musk R1 if you have...
  32. Re: Where can I find a good Pipe Tobacco and Violet Leaf essential oils/extracts/etc?

    I think one drop of violet leaf abs will be way too much. Dilute it down to 10% and then add one drop at a time. Too much and it smells fishy.
  33. Re: Musk nonane (Oxalide T, 10-oxadecahexanolide, OHD musk)

    My sample from Takasago was not delivered because the courier did not like my small village address (no house number) and so I will get it this weekend. I shall report my impressions and send a...
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    Re: Muskroot / Sumbul-root / Ferula sumbul

    "I would imagine these roots take longer than normal tinctures. Did you grate or powder yours first?"


    Actually at the time I had my gardener pound it into powder (in Burma). I still have a bag...
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    Re: Muskroot / Sumbul-root / Ferula sumbul

    I have some spikenard tincture somewhere if anyone is interested in a sample. From the Burmese Himalayas. The tincture has a more rootbeer smell than the absolute (which smells like feet)
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    Re: Muskroot / Sumbul-root / Ferula sumbul

    I believe spikenard is referred to as "musk root" in some publications. This may be what you are looking for. To me it smells like feet and not musk.
  37. Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 12/2013

    Well you may well wish to challenge him on it, as it would be the only legitimate violet flower or honeysuckle (or tobacco flower) in existence as far as I know, if it is indeed true... but he does...
  38. Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 12/2013

    Hermitage now has its Italian webshop open. I know there was some discussion on the DIY board about how hard it is to ship into Italy, so I thought this would be of interest. He is also going to be...
  39. Re: Musk nonane (Oxalide T, 10-oxadecahexanolide, OHD musk)

    It's 195 Euros a Kg plus VAT (20%) minimum order 500 Euros.
  40. Re: Musk nonane (Oxalide T, 10-oxadecahexanolide, OHD musk)

    I wrote to my contact at Takasago France to see if she will give a price and a sample.
  41. Replies
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    Re: Nyuk nyuk nyuk.

    Now THAT's funny!
  42. Replies
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    Re: Nyuk nyuk nyuk.

    Not sure why you are posting here in DIY since you never have before. If it's just to post a lame joke about killing men, you can keep it to yourself. What if the genders were reversed? Would you...
  43. Re: Well, I can now finally say I've smelled Rum Absolute!

    Wow. You are indeed blessed. So what does it smell like?
  44. Replies
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    Re: Disgusted by IFRA perfume regulations

    It is my greatest pleasure as an amateur to completely ignore IFRA. (I do watch out for things that are actually toxic or endocrine disruptors etc though... )
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    Re: small sculpture made of Exaltolide

    250g would be a reasonable sized steak and I assume it is lighter than beef.
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    Re: small sculpture made of Exaltolide

    Be sure to send us pictures!
  47. Re: Please give me feedback/suggestions on this formula for my "personal scent" Thank you!

    The above advice is good. Diluting will help you avoid wasting money as you experiment to try to get your formula back, and using weights will ensure you don't lose it again. I think you should look...
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    Re: Vetiveryl Acetate!

    Have you looked at the supplier sticky? Hermitage still has some although he is apparently phasing out ACs. The German suppliers Omikron et al should be able to help you too. Proxisante does not have...
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    Re: short presentation and thanks

    Welcome Enrico, and don't worry about your English!
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    I just found out Proxisante will be getting Reseda body at the end of January. (They also now have Clearwood and something called "Leather, molecular distillation")
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Mine would be:

    Amyl or Iso amyl salycilate (and other salycilates -- I love what they do as blenders)

    Patchouli (can't say more than anyone else on this one, but where would we be without it?)...
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    Re: How to Make Marijuana Perfume

    Actually no one asked that.
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    Re: Looking for a Nose/Perfumer to Consult

    There are two or three on this board who can help you. Still, it seems a bit odd to me you would post here in a DIY forum rather than contacting a known company that does such things. Or maybe you...
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    Re: Plasticine / playdough

    This is an amazing forum; I love how you can get answers to the most obscure and interesting questions in just hours.
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    Re: Plasticine / playdough

    Javiero to me the scent of playdough is exactly the scent of straight up heliotropin. Not sure what the scent of Plasticine is though. My wife used to have a perfume based on heliotropin (heliotrope...
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    Re: How does a nose experience a scent

    Thanks to both of you, fascinating stuff. It's like "the secret life of dogs" for you, and I admit a bit of jealousy. I can pick out quite a few things now, and a lot more than what a complete...
  57. Re: I call for a boycott of all Dopey comments and threads

    I have done so from the very first day he posted. The name says it all and I for one in not interested by that. And as Danielle points out, the best way to deal with it is not censorship, but just...
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    Re: Maltol solubility issues

    Could be it is my maltol that is adulterated!
  59. Replies
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    Re: Maltol solubility issues

    I have never had a problem with maltol in ethanol -- I don't know what the highest percentage I have dissolved it at was, but I know it works at 10%. If not then just try some IPM.
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    Re: How does a nose experience a scent

    The latter, how a trained person experiences scent. How it changes your perception and way of enjoying scent. And everything else I said above... In the title, I realize it could be confusing: I mean...
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    How does a nose experience a scent

    While I am in a posting mood I thought I would ask a question I have been meaning to ask for some time. This is specifically directed at those here with formal, or very good informal training. Thus...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I have always had a sneaking suspicion that the key to a great accord is contrast, and perhaps even a bit of discord, in the musical sense, in order to make it pop out. And in a way the sweetness I...
  63. Replies
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I have Ebanol, and I love it, but it does give that je ne sais quoi of overarching sweetness, at least in any of the accords I have used it in.
  64. Replies
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    Not sure if you were replying to me -- if so I am referring to the whole thread on sweetness in male scents, and the fact there have been so few AC suggestions, or at least fewer than I expected...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I am fascinated by all the replies, thanks to everyone. What surprises me the most is the overwhelming majority of suggestions have been naturals; I somehow assumed there was a whole roster of ACs...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    Graphite I am interested in your Thuja. Mine is rather dominated by I guess what is called terpenes, and not what I would think of as sweet.
  67. Replies
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I am out of tonka abs... Grrr. need to get some more -- Lav abs I have used, but not with this specific purpose -- will try it.
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    Fir balsam is a good one, I think I have been overdosing it though as I always seem to make it dominate -- let me try it in traces. Otherwise all the above save Rosone I have tried and indeed...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I agree getting the combo right is key, but its not for lack of trying! Vanilla or even vanillin does work but it gives for me a very specific kind of sweetness that I associate with an oriental (and...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    Thanks David , Cistus and Davana I have not used too heavily, let me try it, thanks. Orange flower and related I have used as well as of course various citruses in the top but this is still not "it",...
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    The problem with sweetness

    In the men's fragrances I work on I like what is dark and I like dry. So I have worked on dark dry accords, for a long time. I buy dark dry materials etc. (I also buy others, because I want to have...
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    Re: Green Cognac Essential Oil

    I think there was some discussion of it in the past, although it may be in the dark vault. I have both white and green and I recall them smelling pretty distinctly of vomit. That was the consensus of...
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    Re: Honey resinoid from proxisanté

    Did you try heating (gently)? Otherwise you may need ipm or another solvent.
  74. Replies
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    Re: GC for Tonka Bean Absolute, Anyone?

    Bo Jensen confirms this and also has a nice discussion of possible substitute/similar-smelling chemicals: "Minor components like dihydrocoumarin (with a sweet-herbal odor), 5-hydroxymethyl-furfural...
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    Re: diethyl- acetal Hydroxycitronellal

    Thanks I will be ordering today! For everyone's eduction, how does it smell compared to the regular Hydroxycitronellal?
  76. Thread: Butyric Acid

    by gecko214
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    Re: Butyric Acid

    Paul proxisante carries it in small quantities and it is not expensive.
  77. Re: What notes do you get from Johnson's Baby Oil?

    I think geranium (or geraniol) may be involved.
  78. Replies
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    Re: Help with victorian perfume

    Read the stickies before you do anything. FOs will likely not replicate anything close to this formula and using all naturals for this will be very pricey and probably a waste; unless you are...
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    Re: Help with victorian perfume

    As long as you don't eat the bitter almond oil (but good luck finding any) you'll be alright (cyanide). It won't smell anything like lily of the valley though, I've tried it.
  80. Replies
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    I have lived there for two years and in SE Asia for 10 and we went there regularly. Definitely lemon grass and don't forget frangipani. Also for lime I would use kaffir lime. And galangal instead of...
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    Re: Forming acetals

    Thanks David yes, I have both, the amyl version seems a little "rounder" to me, but they are indeed quite similar




    Chris it is indeed a discontinued fragrance and I am doing both because I...
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    Re: Reformulation later?

    Chrestomanthic you have some very nice, generous and very experienced people here giving you good advice, advice you asked for. You would do well to heed it, but of course you can do whatever you...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Forming acetals

    The isomerization issue is interesting; for example there seems to be a lot of isoamyl salycilate in it, but your comment makes me think perhaps this could have been originally plain old Amyl...
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    Re: Forming acetals

    An intriguing idea, which would make sense given what I am smelling, but sadly no methyl anthrilate listed. Is it possible the GMCS missed it?
  85. Re: IFRA, difference between tea absolute and CO2?

    I think this is telling. When institutions have to be responsive to their customers and care about them, they make attractive, easy to use websites (among other things). When they have unbridled or...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Forming acetals

    agree .5% of C-8 is a heck of a lot, especially for me as I really don't like the smell of the aldehydes.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Forming acetals

    Well I am pretty patient, I've been working on this for more than 2 years, and up to formula number 22 (version 6). But I admit I have only had the c-8 for 9 months.

    I agree it is possible with...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Forming acetals

    so if I put in a dehydrating agent and kept it warm do you think that would do the trick, at least minimally?

    I would love to work out a way to just buy them but I don't see how. I just really...
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    Forming acetals

    I have written about this in the past and David confirmed one can encourage acetal formation by diluting in ethanol and waiting, but I have not been too successful. The two acetals I am looking for...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Ambergris in the UK

    The prices being quoted on those eBay listing are highly optimistic; you can buy top grade stuff from a reputable supplier in New Zealand for $US25 per gram. 130 UK pounds for 1.88 grams is usurious.
  91. Replies
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    Re: pheromone use in perfumery

    David I guess the answer is yes, although I am not sure I would, depending on how bad they smell or unpredictable the effects. I have just always been curious about them. As for the effect I guess it...
  92. Replies
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    Re: pheromone use in perfumery

    Thank you both for taking the time to reply so thoroughly. Fascinating indeed. As I suspected it is quite complicated and with a lot of unknowns. It also seems like you would be working with a...
  93. Replies
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    pheromone use in perfumery

    I have questions for two members on this subject:

    One, for David: Do you know whether pheromones are ever used in mainstream fragrance (I guess I am talking about a perfume or cologne, and also...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Dazzling the Natural Perfumery Priestesses

    Nizan as you say natural perfumery is a philosophical stance more than anything although I would also say there is a certain aesthetic to it as well which I can understand. I think you will fail to...
  95. Replies
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    Re: Infusing Ambergris powder in Sandalwood oil

    As Mumsy says.

    Also I have mixed ambergris tincture with sandalwood in the past and while the effect is noticeable, I found it tended to attenuate the sandalwood. Also, if ambergris tincture takes...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Lilac saga 2014 …. enfleurage time again

    Mumsy I have been wanting to do this for years but have not managed for various reasons, usually being my not being near my lilac when it is blooming (as is the case this year, plus it's alwasy WET...
  97. Re: Solubility Problems with Ambrette Seed CO2

    I think I used IPM for this one and it worked fine. There is an old thread somewhere where I asked about diluting co2s I find they are often hard to dilute in ethanol. Although as I understand it...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    To many I think vanilla has come to mean ho hum or ordinary (in fact the term has now become part of normal usage for this). But I always remember it is in fact one of the most exotic things you can...
  99. Thread: Viola odorata

    by gecko214
    Replies
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    1,156

    Re: Viola odorata

    No I have not used benzyl benzoate in violet as to me it is quite faint and more of a solvent as I understand it -- . But it could smooth things out I suppose. I doubt it is the magic ingredient you...
  100. Thread: Viola odorata

    by gecko214
    Replies
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    Re: Viola odorata

    From my notes: Try a touch of ambrette seed abs or ambrettolide if you have them. And phenylethy alcohol. And a tiny trace of oakmoss. This may add some velvet. And for a "woody humus violet" very...
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