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  1. Replies
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    Re: Hinokitiol

    You may want to try Cedar Atlas, it seems to be the brightest/most sharp (of what I've smelled), but start with small amounts as it can easily overpower anything. For once I'd probably recommend an...
  2. Re: Aromachemicals for use in liquid paraffin lamp oil

    Very cool info Pears!
  3. Replies
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    Re: Green Tea-- Inspired by Creed SMW

    Bumping an old thread here...

    I've been trying to do a little matching exercise with SMW, and the notes I find most difficult to get are in the top. I think it's mainly aldehydes, but theres also...
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    Re: Paul's Thread

    Paul was a beacon of knowledge and valuable insight to this forum, and I am so thankful for everything he has contributed to me personally and to everyone else. I'm sad to see him go, but I...
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    Re: Hinokitiol

    I don't think one ingredient is going to do the trick, and I haven't smelled either by themselves, but perhaps Vetiver or Cedar. Or you could go the sweet route with benzoin or labdanum.
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    Re: Why do Roses Smell so Sweet?

    I agree with both of you here, it def is not sweet. I would love to source some L-Rose oxide to sample it, I only have the racemic.
  7. Replies
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    Re: Why do Roses Smell so Sweet?

    Nice explanation on chirality / isomers, but sort of misleading because rose is so much more than rose oxide... Thinking PEA, geraniol, citronellol, nerol, eugenol, damascenone/beta damascone, etc.
  8. Thread: Tools

    by editorinscent
    Replies
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    431

    Re: Tools

    These lab micro scoopulas do the trick for me:

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075VLJQDZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  9. Re: Aromachemicals for use in liquid paraffin lamp oil

    You could try it but I don't think you'll get great results... I wouldn't load anymore than 10% of ACs total.
  10. Re: Aromachemicals for use in liquid paraffin lamp oil

    Can you clarify what liquid lamp oil is? Is it a sealed container with a wick that you light? Or something else?

    I'm asking because the majority of the aroma from a lit candle occurs from the...
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    That's got loads of iso-eugenol and musk ambrette (need to replace it), definitely not IFRA compatible; basically this base is limited at 0.18% w/w if you replace the musk ambrette. I'd replace...
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    Re: Perfume - how to improve longevity?

    Agree with the others on using synthetics. You're never supposed to smell them neat from the bottle. Dilute them to 10-1% and evaluate them on strips. You can still use them neat in the blend but you...
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    Re: Tincture percentages

    Exactly, there's no technical way (outside of getting a lab analysis/GCMS done on your tincture) to determine how much of something is in it. It's going to vary greatly depending on how long you let...
  14. Re: labeling ingredients - alcohol vis alcohol denat

    This should answer all of your questions... I think it needs to be on the product packaging, if that includes a box, then on there. If not, it needs to be on the bottle.

    FDA laws for labeling...
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    Re: The Smell of Communism

    I was going to say... potatoes, 2-ethyl-6 vinyl pyrazine along w 4-methyl thio butanol, costus Oliffac for the human smell of unwashed hair, a touch of hydroxycitronellal and methyl ionone bc I feel...
  16. Replies
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    Re: Tincture percentages

    The thing is, not all of the mass of the ingredients is going to dissolve, I'm not sure there's a good way of accurately calculating the concentration here. Did you scrape the beans from the pods?...
  17. Re: labeling ingredients - alcohol vis alcohol denat

    I believe it is a legal requirement in the USA, I am not familiar with UK/EU legislation but I have heard it is more stringent in general.



    Listing the EU allergens is only required by EU. I...
  18. Re: labeling ingredients - alcohol vis alcohol denat

    I named mine SD-Alcohol 40B, it's what I purchased from CP. I think alcohol denat. is fine too, but I've seen the actual type of alcohol listed on most current production fragrances.
  19. Re: Source of tobacco leaf absolute anyone please?

    I see Pell Wall (UK), Creating Perfume, Perfumer's Apprentice, and Perfumer Supply House all carry it (CP actually has two varieties, including a blonde... adding to cart). TGSC has a "supplier" tab...
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    lol
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    1,363

    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    No problem! Just make sure they're in tightly closed containers, otherwise the alcohol will evaporate over time.
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    1,635

    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    Ivor,

    Re: Iso E Super, extensive allerginic testing has been done by IFRA, hence dosage limits.

    Re: Hedione acts on pheromone receptors? wow. You know what else does? Human body odors and tons...
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    Waiting a few months is a little overkill to me. It sort of like the law of diminishing returns... the greatest change is going to occur over 24-72 hours. The rest is just fine smoothing IMO. There...
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    OK, here's 3 for example:

    Iso E Super - no risk
    Hedione - no risk
    Macrocyclic musks - no risk

    Rose otto/absolute - carcinogenic, methyl eugenol content*

    sweet basil oil -
  25. Replies
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    Re: Thread: Virgin Island Water recipe or formula

    Please use the search feature, this has been discussed before.
  26. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    Show me the receipts...

    Besides the two links, you have not provided any significant factual evidence to your statements, only your opinions. The musk toxicity link you provided uses Musk Xylene...
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    I wholeheartedly disagree. Take a look at the research done by IFRA and the EU. There are tons of naturals that are restricted, limited, and even prohibited. They have came to these conclusions as a...
  28. Re: Discussing the mechanics behind crafting a formula

    Vapor Pressure is a good measure of how diffusive a material is, the lower the pressure the the higher the diffusivity. Substantivity determines how long a material lasts. You can search TGSC for any...
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    Re: Materials with a Dark Color?

    I find this puzzling as the function of perfumes is their odor, not their color (despite marketing and manufacturer's adding colorants. You may want to look into those if color is important to you)....
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    Agree w the 1% dilution (for all aldehydes, in ethyl alcohol so they will already "mature") and yes, 0.04% in concentrate is enough to get a noticeable effect. I've used it at 0.02% for just a touch...
  31. Re: Something similar to Spikenard / Liquorice?

    None of these smell remotely like liquorice
  32. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    You're actually pretty close on some of the ingredients Philip Kraft selected for his "Oudini" oud accord on the Scent and Chemistry FB page. Woody, fruity notes, etc. He also uses cashmeran/kephalis...
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    Good to know, thank you. I like the 0.05% w/w measure much more.
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    Re: Scale comparison

    You can do what I said above; place the container on the scale while it's off. Then turn it on. This will give you the full range of the scale. The strain guages calculate from a difference in...
  35. Re: Anyone ever ordered from perfumersworld.com?

    I've bought a few things that I can't get anywhere else and the quality is fine, granted I haven't smelled any other source bc... well no one else supplies them in small amounts or easily/cheaply. I...
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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Two oud aroma chemicals are 2,4 Xylenol (medicinal phenolic) and 2,6 Xylenol (wet band aid). Most oud notes are not just one aroma chemical, they are bases from houses. Here's my opinion of the...
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    Re: Making a perfume without alcohol?

    This topic has been discussed before; try the search feature
  38. Re: "Burping" and the General Aging of Fragrances

    Exposure to air is not beneficial to fragrances, it one of the main oxidizers (second to sunlight). Just let it sit... time is your best friend. Some people have mentioned odd techniques of aging the...
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    I've seen it range from 0.1% to 0.9% on GCMS data. There's no requirement to use it, but it's the standard preservative. I would assume any fragrance that has a lot of naturals or easily oxidized...
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    Re: Hermes eau des merveilles bleue

    You're welcome. I did a google search and hit Sephora's site... they are good about listing all the ingredients of their products.
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    Re: Hermes eau des merveilles bleue

    I haven't smelled it, but probably lactones / maybe some ionones for the creamy effect.

    As for 3 dimensional, that is the work of the perfumer... Most likely has a large dose of Iso E Super and...
  42. Re: Carrier Oil Fixatives for Perfume - Which are best for natural perfumery?

    CCT is in basically everything that isn't a soap. Just did a quick search and I don't see any evidence posing allergic potential, quite the opposite actually. I'd be shocked if it was the cause of a...
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    Re: symroxane: what do we know about it?

    I've tested it at 1.5% in a fragrance using vetiver materials (and may increase it; also using Ysamber, Timbersilk, Sylvamber, and Ambrox Super so honestly the formula is getting full of woody ambery...
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    Re: Lichee note

    I haven't tried a lychee accord either. I may give it a try, but honestly I need a good reference to what lychee smells like; I've only tasted the canned ones in cocktails a few times. Any...
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    Re: Lichee note

    From S&C Facebook pages:
    "Because how do you construct a lychee? The equation is very simple as it is one of the first things after you learned how to do a rose: lychee = rose + raspberry + cassis."...
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    Re: Tiare accord

    I would assume that both gardenia and tiare share a common AC, cis-3-hexenyl tiglate. Maybe someone has a headspace analysis of tiare...

    Gardenol / styrallyl acetate is not present in all gardenia...
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    Re: Please help me find this amber!

    From the Ambre Blend Ambre Blends website:

    * Pure, organic, oil essence
    * Made with all natural, pure and certified organic ingredients
    * Months worth of use in each bottle
    * Perfect for...
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    Re: Naming my notes

    Of course. You can make rose notes out of two materials (quoting JCE here). If you create an accord, list it.
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    Re: Naming my notes

    You have to think like a marketing department. List the notes you want to create/represent the impression of the fragrance in the imagination. You can abstract damascones into corresponding fruits...
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    Re: Please help me find this amber!

    Those are very strong, harsh amber aromachems, I would not recommend. Amyris is a good substitute for sandalwood EO, you could use mostly amyris with a bit of sandalwood EO to cut cost.

    It sounds...
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    Re: Masculine sweetness

    Veratraldehyde is like a more woody vanillin

    Could go the route of lactones; coumarin (or traces of tonka abs.), whiskey lactone, gamma undecalactone (aka c14, traces), methyl laitone (traces),...
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    They are there to reduce detrimental UV radiation to the fragrance, sunlight kills perfume. I don't think color change is of much concern (except with indole, heat and UV acclerate its darkening)....
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    Re: Blenders in Aventus

    Um, the last two are sunscreens (UV filters).
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    Re: Ginger and IFRA

    Yes, that comes out correct, or 30% w/w which would be a ton of ginger!

    On TGSC, there is a recommendation of 8% max in concentrate (or 1.6% w/w) which seems a little more reasonable to me.
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    Re: Blue Lotus Absolute

    Not sure if this has been said before but just an FYI, when doing a headspace recreation, I learned from S&C's Facebook page that in order to convert the gas phase (headspace analysis is evaluation...
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    Re: Top notes from Ellena

    I know he used styrallyl acetate in a handful of his works for Hermes to make rhubarb and grapefruit notes (w m. pamp.)
  57. Re: Name the 3 most beautiful material you know

    Rose Otto Bulgaria
    Vetiver Bourbon EO
    iso Ambrettolide

    From mentioned:

    +1 Honey Signature / Firabs (I think they renamed it to this)
    +1 alpha irone
    +1 Labdanum absolute
  58. Replies
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    Re: green top note

    Just a thought, If you wanted to prolong a citrus effect and don't mind adding some lemon character, citral will outlast limonene (and pair well), try it at 1:5-10 limonene because of its strength.
    ...
  59. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    More importantly, do you smell it in in a finished perfume? I think once it is mixed with fragrance the odor is imperceptible. Personally I haven't noticed the denaturant in neat 40B.
  60. Replies
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    Re: Pine/juniper fixative

    Juniper berry CO2 is longer lasting than the EO to me, still not a base note but worth including.
  61. Replies
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    Re: green top note

    Give Triplal (8 hours via TGSC) or cis-3-hexanol / leaf alcohol (4 hours) a try
  62. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    Honestly, besides from working in a vacuum (or with an inert gas), it's technically impossible to have 100% pure ethanol once you expose it to air, and considering the low tech lab equipment used way...
  63. Re: Julia Child Rose, when a Rose is Anise + Candy!

    My mother planted a "Julia Child" rose bush in memorial to my late grandmother, who was an avid rose gardener. I smelled a picked bloom and loved it, but I will have to revisit the live ones and...
  64. Using DPG/ACM diluted materials and diffusion

    Hey everyone, so I have a formula I'm working on and I'm using a handful of materials at 10% or 1% that are diluted in DPG/ACM. I calculated the mass of the dilutants and for a trial size of 1.5g...
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    Re: Suggestion for hydrosol supplier?

    I definitely understand the marketing perspective, consumers want lots of natural ingredients, it makes them feel good about the product. I'm assuming you're listing the EOs used in the ingredients,...
  66. Re: Possible components giving sweet note to natural civet?

    Thanks Bill, good to know!
  67. Re: youtube video made by matt

    Good work Matt, it's nice to put a face to the names on the forum. I do think Iso E Super was used in a decent amount in other fragrances before Farenheight though yes? Perhaps it was the first to...
  68. Re: What Strong Component Powers The "Windsor" Floral/Green/Humid Trio?

    Ah yes, indole is definitely in anything Tuberose. Good point Kacper!
  69. Replies
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    Re: Suggestion for hydrosol supplier?

    Honestly, why not just use carrot seed EO? You'd only need a trace as it is powerful. If you're concerned about solubility then you can add peg 40 HCO and/or polysorbate 20 to the oil phase before...
  70. Re: Brigitte Bräutigam: Niagara - Fougère-Citrus

    I really like that exercise Xii, a total synth interpretation. Perhaps once you get your structure tuned, you could add traces of some of the naturals back in and have a stellar perfume. Sometimes I...
  71. Re: Possible components giving sweet note to natural civet?

    Nice Matt, thanks for the link. I too noticed the civet from PSH was very cheesy and I didn't get the fecal reference. It is the only Civet I have tried, so maybe I need to get some from that Etsy...
  72. Re: What Strong Component Powers The "Windsor" Floral/Green/Humid Trio?

    I've actually worked on a Royal Mayfair match, it is tuberose, likely a base similar to the Firmenich one, and quite a bit of it; there could also be a touch of tuberose absolute. The top is...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Suggestion for hydrosol supplier?

    Try Wholesale Supplies Plus, they have 6.

    https://www.wholesalesuppliesplus.com/additives/application/hydrosols.aspx
  74. Thread: Veramoss

    by editorinscent
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    5,976

    Re: Veramoss

    I have it at 10% in ACM and it stays liquid at room temp. I do remember heating it to dissolve when I first blended it. At 50% it solidifies.
  75. Thread: Magnol

    by editorinscent
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    757

    Re: Magnol

    Interesting! The one part of magnolia blooms that is quite distinct is the rubbery aspect. Good to know, it seems like this material would be useful in recreating that.
  76. Replies
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    596

    Re: Melting it all together

    I'd try some LOTV molecules, Magnolan (not LOTV though) would probably fit well. Musks will soften and fixate but won't help blend (I think you're referring to the transition from top to base). You...
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    Re: Use Rose Givco to make a candle

    Perfumer's Apprentice sells Premium Fragrance oils that were intended to use in candles, I just ordered their rose but I haven't tested it, I'll let you know when I do. I've also used CP's True Rose...
  78. Replies
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    990

    Re: I don't like the term "blender".

    When speaking to a senior perfumer at Givaudan he used the term "builders" and I see that as a better way to describe low impact/transparent materials. Stuff that acts more as a foundation, not as...
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    Re: tincturing lavender

    Besides just doing it for the sake of tincturing, why lavender? There are many good lavender EOs/absolutes to purchase that will surpass the quality/performance of your tincture.
  80. Replies
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    Re: Incense Materials

    So, update on my trials, I added hydrocarboresine 0.3% and 0.01% of Ambrocenide... It has made my incense steroidal! Granted it's only been blended 48 hours, maybe it will soften up. But I think it...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    Is that PTFE tape the same stuff that Christine @PSH and Susan @CP wrap their bottles in when shipping? I love it, it's super easy to remove and I've actually reused it in some cases. I'm sure w your...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    You could definitely add Hydroxycitronellal, it will add body and light fresh floral aspects to the heart. You could also add some Hedione (not HC) to increase freshness, maybe do a 1:1 Hedione :...
  83. Replies
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    799

    Re: help with essential oil...

    You may want to go the oil (FCO) or solid based perfume route, as it may help fixate it.

    Honestly, I would put it in a minimalist formula like the Grojman accord (1000 parts total, fill the rest...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Thick Jammy Rose - Advice

    phenyl ethyl benzoate is available at PA. It is a very faint, somewhat spicy rosy note, I don't think it's going to give you what you're looking for.

    Try some phenyl ethyl acetate, maybe 4:1 ratio...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Oud and Sandalwood Accord

    Be careful with Ambrocenide, it's even stronger than norlimbanol. I have it in a blend at 0.01% and it is noticeable (but it is more elegant that Amber Xtreme). You can also add Cashmeran and...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Overdose of BHT

    I have not used it (yet) so I can't speak on it's effect in a fragrance. It should be odorless, and I haven't heard much about a dampening effect but maybe that is possible.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Question about dilutions

    What they said, but the Frankincense is probably a mobile liquid at 30% already, you probably don't have to dilute it further in order to incorporate it. But if you want to be consistent with 10 base...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Overdose of BHT

    The limit of 0.2% w/w (limit in final product) would correlate to 1% BHT in concentrate in a 20% perfume (1%*20% = 0.2%)
  89. Replies
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    1,287

    Re: Overdose of BHT

    Concentrate. GCMS data only show what's in the concentrate as the alcohol evaporates.
  90. Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    That's great! Congrats!

    Here in Charleston, SC we have a plethora of "confederate (star) jasmine" that blooms in early April. I may have to try this as the smell perfumes the entire city where...
  91. Replies
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    1,287

    Re: Overdose of BHT

    I've seen BHT way over 0.2% in some GCMS data. For example, the GCMS of Dior Homme I have has it at 0.88%, and Ambre Sultan and Gucci PH at 0.38%. So, don't feel so bad, you're probably fine, but...
  92. Re: Anyone have plans for a perfumer's desktop organ?

    Those are very cool and quite handsome. I'd love to have them built into rows in a larger box and fill them according to scent family, then you'd have a library to slide out. Would be sort of clunky...
  93. Re: What aroma chemicals should be refrigerated in the summer?

    I keep citrus, florals, anything marked to keep refrigerated (cumin aldehyde, farnesene are all I have) and anything expensive (except for sandalwood) in the fridge.

    I will say, if they aren't in...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    EDIT just saw EM is at 10%. So at 0.05% it's probably not too strong if you want that sweetness.

    To me, styrallyl acetate & rhubofix (acidic citrus rhubarb), cyclamen aldehyde (green floral), and...
  95. Re: Anyone have plans for a perfumer's desktop organ?

    These are great. I wish I had a permanent spot for my workspace, I have to use the kitchen in my apt.

    I use boxes with lids (it's important to not leak aromas) currently.
  96. Replies
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    Re: damascones

    I have mine at 1%, they are very strong. As mentioned in other threads, the good scents company (TGSC) searches show what recommended dilution to evaluate at.
  97. Replies
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    Re: Clay - How?

    Vetikone has a soil vibe, but not clay. Perhaps some of the suggestions above mixed with something warmer like furfural, maybe traces of warm spices like nutmeg. Maybe some dihydro beta ionone. It...
  98. Replies
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    950

    Re: DIY beard oil - fragrance request

    FYI the discoloration your friend experienced from bergamot oil comes from the actual color deposit of unrefined bergamot oil (which is sort of a yellowish amber orange tint in cheap quality oils)...
  99. Replies
    10
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    1,124

    Re: need help: formula for wood-amber-orris

    These are just my own synesthestic color associations to the material to help me visualize my blend. Green - woods, black - dark woods, yellow - light floral, purple - iris, blue - musk/ambergris,...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Date Fragrance

    5-methyl furfural is caramel, nutty, spicy. Maybe a trace of it. I was looking at fig fruit GCMS data the other day and that one came up.
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