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  1. Re: Perfumers alcohol with harsh alcoholic note

    Thank you for your responses.

    Much appreciated

    I am going to try 10% water maybe 12% and I'll see if that makes a difference and whether there are any solubility issues. I think bumping up the...
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    Re: Good GCMS in Europe

    To be honest I am also looking for something similar and I am based in the uk. I think seeing perfume gcms would be very beneficial for learning the basics of how perfumes are built and put together....
  3. Perfumers alcohol with harsh alcoholic note

    I have purchased perfumers alcohol from mistral in the uk. The makeup of this alcohol means that one isnt required to apply for a special license in order to purchase this.

    The alcohol does...
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    Re: Shaking/stirring device

    I'm not sure if a magnetic stirrer would speed up the maturation process, but I find it very useful when dissolving certain materials for example veramoss is notoriously hard to dissolve and took me...
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    Re: Introduction and Eucalyptus advice

    I would recommend mintonat and a touch of galbanum resinoid
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Thank you for your response. I have been recommended Paul's vanilla base by someone else and I don't doubt its quality. This is more of a learning exercise for me. I think attempting to make a number...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Thank you for your kind reply

    You make a great point. It looks like some of the amounts of the materials are a little too low. I will message you regarding this. I appreciate your help
  8. Replies
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    Re: My formula (advice+help)

    Just noticed the amount of guaiacol you're using and I would literally use a tenth of that amount or less as it's really potent. Try adding some ambrettolide at 1% and some galaxolide at 5% for...
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    Re: How to do a " oud like " accord

    I forgot to add an obvious one - vertofix!
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    Re: How to do a " oud like " accord

    Kohinool, nerolidol, cedramber, olibanum, kephalis, cashmeran, labdanum, tobaccarol.

    I think but I'm not 100% that safranal is used in traces as well as possibly ambrain. Also maybe traces of...
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    Re: Formulation %

    I wouldnt dilute my whole stock of a material down. Dilute a reasonable amount that you can use in a few experiments and keep the rest of the more concentrated material as it is. When you need more,...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    I have done a fair but of research on vanilla absolute. I realised how wrong some of my formula was.

    I have reformulated it again based on the information I've managed to find on vanilla...
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    Re: Percentages and dilution

    It really depends. The way I used to buy materials at the beginning was I bought the obvious ones - PEA, orange terpenes, linalool, hedione, iso e super, ambroxan, the main musks, cis 3 hexenol, etc....
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    Re: Percentages and dilution

    Ambrinol 95 is pretty powerful and oud maleki is extremely potent. Even at 10%, I consider them way too powerful to be used in the scale of perfume making of a beginner or intermediate in my opinion....
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    Re: Percentages and dilution

    The problem is that the density of your materials is usually never 1g/cm³ and alcohol has a density of 0.789g/cm³. Therefore in this case measuring out 21ml (ie 70% of the total volume of the...
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    Re: Percentages and dilution

    Always use weight when working out solutions. I personally started with a fairly cheap (roughly $20) 2 decimal point scales to weigh my materials. For example if the total weight of essential...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Haha. I see where you're coming from. I actually need the vanilla absolute for a chocolate accord. I have spent a ridiculous amount of money on perfume materials recently so I cant unfortunately buy...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    I have used perfumersworld in the past and whilst they are overall very good 2 of the materials I purchased (out of about 40) were rancid. I think I'm going to purchase something like vanilla...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Thank you all for your replies. What I gather is vanilla absolute is this wonderful aroma with great depth, complexity and beauty that can only be appreciated when smelled and this I will definitely...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    I completely agree. To be honest I have tried to find gcms for various absolutes/essential oils, but I couldn't find a source for this. But that would of course be a huge help. And completely agree...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    I came up with the formula based on descriptions of vanilla absolute. I suppose I was doomed to fail from the start. The amyris I added to add a soft woody edge to it, as I read somewhere that...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    I realised I do have damascenone total which from my understanding is very similar to beta damascenone. Never used it up until now, so I will use this instead of damascone beta and birch tar.
  23. Replies
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Vanilla absolute is extremely expensive - costing roughly around the $4 or $5 per g for a quality product for an end user like me not purchasing in kgs. The blend I have suggested would cost probably...
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    Re: Vanilla absolute accord

    Thank you for your detailed response. It's been a great help. I was thinking about using santaliff, and traseolide for its creamy facet. The PEA I thought of as adding a hint of sweetness. I think I...
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    Vanilla absolute accord

    I have never smelled vanilla absolute before but I'm hoping some of you have on here. I have a lot of ingredients at my disposal but don't have vanilla absolute, so I was wondering if anyone has any...
  26. Re: Looking for natural rounding ingredients to make perfume smell less harsh

    I would recommend labdanum absolute. A little goes a long way and it will quite nicely round off a whole host of different perfume types. Benzoin is also useful but I have made the mistake of putting...
  27. Re: how to dilute solid resins ( Mhirr, benjoin...)

    Hi

    I personally use alcohol to dilute these resins. I dilute mine to 20% for labdanum, benzoin, myrhh, oppoponax etc.

    The olibanum I buy comes as 30% TEC.
  28. Re: Middle and Base Note candle question

    I have never attempted to make a scented candle but I can imagine that one day I will. Is it possible to use a perfume formula and incorporate it into a scented candle formula? Of course if a...
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    Re: Patchoulol question

    Yes paul I agree I have literally searched everywhere and I have not been able to trace pure patchoulol besides perfumer supply house and contacting the manufacturers directly. I find that quite...
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    Re: Patchoulol question

    Thank you adam for your response.

    Thanks for clearing that up and I can now calculate the patchoulol content in my formulations. I have to say I have no complaints about the product. In fact it...
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    Re: Patchoulol question

    Thanks for all your replies.

    To be honest I quite clearly asked if it was 100% patchoulol and was told it was. Either way I just wanted to check. I may end up using something like patchouli ultra...
  32. Replies
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    Patchoulol question

    Hi

    I recently purchased patchoulol from hermitage oils which I was told was a 100% patchoulol extract. I then discovered patchoulol is actually a crystal and what I received from hermitage oils...
  33. Re: Weight Of Fractionated Coconut Oil In Grams per mL

    I have some fco at home and have some very accurate syringes. If you have a syringe that's one way to find out otherwise when I get the chance to I'll check the weight per ml
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    Re: Timbersilk and ISO E Super question

    I meant that I personally would use sylvamber only, since it contains the highest percentage of the gamma isomer compared to timber silk and iso e super. I believe the 100% gamma isomer is a captive...
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    Re: Timbersilk and ISO E Super question

    I believe that molecule 1 is essentially 100% iso e super but the gamma isomer. You're better off using sylvamber which is 22% gamma isomer compared to 15% in timber silk (and 8% in iso e super)
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    Re: What synthetics could I use?

    Based on the above materials I would say that your perfume will probably last a very long time. I would personally only add synthetics to increase projection.

    I would add hedione and maybe a...
  37. Re: Indole vs Skatole vs Indole and Skatole

    I just read up on this and interestingly giraffes produce both skatole and indole - those are the primary molecules responsible for the scent of a giraffe!
  38. Re: Help... Create a sexy, hot perfume with amber and cardamom.

    Completely agree with paul. Of all the perfumery accords/compositions I have a lot of experience in amber and cardamom. As Paul stated cardamom is very powerful in all its forms so 30% is way way too...
  39. Re: Blending Factors For Ambrette and Oakwood

    For most materials I would initially check goodscents. This provides substantivity and recommended smelling %. For strong materials it will recommend smelling them at 1% or 0.1% and for some it would...
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    It's not nonsense it's called percentage by mass. You're obviously working on percentage by volume which I personally dont prefer but as a someone who likes measuring volume as opposed to mass I...
  41. Re: Self taught perfumers: What was your ‘ah ha’ moment?

    I agree with the above user. Dosing specific materials can be tricky and I made many blunders when using powerful materials such as birch tar and muscenone, which took over the whole composition. I...
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    Re: Methods of measurement

    100mg/ml is a 10% solution if the solvent used has a density of 1gcm³. This is true if the solvent was water. However in alcohol which has a density of 0.79gcm³ this would not be true and the...
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    Re: IFRA usage rates

    The ifra limits are by weight. So measure what 30ml of your solvent weighs. Then work out what the maximum weight of each individual aroma chemical (or perfume oil) is for that weight of solvent you...
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    Re: IFRA question

    Thank you midden appreciate your help
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    Re: IFRA question

    A side note to this. Which category would beard oil fall into of the IFRA categories
  46. Replies
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    Re: Best Synthetic Musk

    Of all the musks I've tried animalis was the closest to real deer musk. Even then it really doesnt come close enough to it
  47. Replies
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    Re: Can I add glitter in the perfume?

    I'm not sure if what you want is to have the sparkly effect stay in the bottle or for it to come out through the atomiser. If you're happy for it to stay in the bottle your best bet is to buy gold...
  48. Re: Newbie questions about DIY perfume and fragrance oil

    To start off with I would use drops. I only started to weigh my materials after a year or so of perfuming. I would stress however that as the above contributor explained different materials have...
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    Re: Weighing scales recommendations

    I have been using the KERN Emb200-3 which is 3dp and for up to 200g. It is more expensive than the one paul has put the link for. But it is excellent and usually comes with a 2 year warranty. I would...
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    Long lasting buttery creamy note

    Hi I'm looking to work on a chocolate caramel type fragrance and wanted a buttery creamy type note to noth smooth it out and enhance the feel of the fragrance. I have recently purchased acetoin and...
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    Re: Looking for Oud like sweetness

    To me there is almost a toffee caramel type note when Cambodian oud dries down. Have you considered caramel furfural or maple furanone? I have only just started using the latter and havent used...
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    Re: Bisabolene help

    Once again you're 100% on point. Maybe I shouldn't try working off memory lol. I've just compared them side by side there are similarities. The bisabolene is missing the depth of the opoponax and...
  53. Replies
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    Re: Bisabolene help

    I think theres definite similarities between the two. Bisaobelene is more gourmand than opoponax and more rounded. I can imagine adding a tiny bit of ambrarome (0.1% or less) with bisabolene would...
  54. Re: Veratraldehyde color stability question

    Interesting explanation. Wasnt even aware that dpg was acidic. Thanks for your input.
  55. Re: Veratraldehyde color stability question

    I've never had a discolouration problem with vanillin. I always add it to perfumes at 10% dpg. Could the dpg be the reason that discolouration doesnt occur? In some instances I've used vanillin at...
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    Re: Recreating Dior Savauge...

    �� I guess it is. I have attempted a clone of sauvage and used no cetalox as I don't have it. I used ambroxan instead
  57. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Thank you for your valuable input Xii. That's very useful information. Much appreciated. I have cuir base (firmenich) I'm guessing that will fix it too?
  58. Replies
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    Re: Recreating Dior Savauge...

    Is it possible to use ambroxan with ambrox dl instead of cetalox?
  59. Replies
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    Thanks for the correction. I havent yet used this material. Theres also not much information available on it. Do you have any idea about its substantivity? And whether it appears in the top notes or...
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    Re: idea for mock oud accord

    I've not tested 2,6 xylenol yet only smelt it from the bottle, but it smells like a smokier version of isobutyl quinolone. It may be useful in adding a hint of smokiness to the oud accord. I...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    Hmm. I dont have maltol but I have ethyl maltol. I'm guessing they're fairly similar? Cotton candy fruity type sweetness? For general sweetness I usually use isobutavan it works really well. I've...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Where to buy tools of the trade?

    I personally buy 10 and 30ml glass bottles (sometimes listed as vials). I usually buy them in lots of 200 or 400 from aliexpress as they work out quite cheap. I also use disposable pipettes in 1000...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Oud reconstitution

    Bill I really appreciate the information. Thank you. I think you've demonstrated that these oud bases cant be made by someone with limited access to materials.

    Paul I definitely agree. I usually...
  64. Replies
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    Oud reconstitution

    I am a huge fan of black agar givco 215 and oud synthetic by firmenich. They do however cost quite a lot.

    I was wondering if anyone here has any idea of the constituents of these two oud bases. I...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    I recently discovered montaverdi which is a beautiful fruit apple type note. It's almost the juicyness that oozes out of fruit and I believe it can probably be used with mast including citrus. Could...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Sweet Tonka note but not Gourmand

    Could it be anisyl alcohol or anisaldehyde?
  67. Re: Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    Thank you for your suggestions. I have benzyl butyrate not isobutyrate. I've read that its suitable as an extender of benzyl acetate. In your opinion is that the case?
  68. Longer lasting benzyl acetate type note

    Hi

    I'm looking for a more substantive benzyl acetate note. It doesnt have to be one that goes down to the base but a couple more materials that would extend this type of note would be greatly...
  69. Re: Advice on projection/longevity etc

    I'm by no means an expert but I notice you have a huge amount of base notes in here. Things like safraleine and the damascones are quite diffusive (and even muscenone) however they will not diffuse...
  70. Replies
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    Re: Juicy Apple accords

    I would use traces of cis 3 hexenyl acetate with even less of something green like stemone and for that juicy ness something fruity like manzanate. I've never tried to make this but theoretically it...
  71. Re: Firmenich Oud Samples from "Sharing Innovation 2018"

    From what I understand oud assafi is the the pure natural oud which is found in both samarat and maleki. How does it smell? Cant wait to get my hands on it!
  72. Re: Firmenich Oud Samples from "Sharing Innovation 2018"

    I have oud maleki and oud samarat which are part synthetic with some real oud (I think 10ish% and 20ish % genuine oud in them). I've only used the maleki in one composition at about 0.5% and i have...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    I purchased mine from hermitage oils. I have to say it's really good quality on performance and smells quite beautiful. My favourite type of cardamom when compared to the essential oil or the co2
  74. Replies
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    Re: Neroli portofino top note naturals

    I've seen a gcms of neroli portifino a while back. I dont remember there being a long lasting neroli scent. The ethylene brassylate by itself (with other musks) is not to my liking. I dont know if...
  75. Replies
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    Re: Neroli portofino top note naturals

    I think there is nerol here in quite a moderate amount. I'm pretty sure there's applelide too which although not a top note has some top note effect. Maybe ik wrong but I sense some citrylal e.
  76. Replies
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    I see what you mean. I haven't measured the substantivity of the cardamom absolute but I'd estimate it lasts between 200 and 300 hours on a scent strip. It's less woody and more sweet than cardamom...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    I'd be open to getting a tenth but I'm based in the uk so not sure how much shipping would be?
  78. Replies
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    8,586

    Re: Cardamom linear?

    To me prismantol has some resemblance to cardamom but not fully. It has nuances of pepper nutmeg and ginger to me. I would personally use the essential oil and the absolute as they are actually...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Cardamom linear?

    Cardamom absolute is much longer lasting than the essential oil or the co2 extract in my experience. I would personally use a mixture of both the essential oils and the absolute as the essential oil...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Castoreum herbal replacer ?

    I'm not sure how to build a castoreum accord however firmenich and givaudan both offer castoreum replacer. Not sure where you're based but pellwall offer the givaudan product in the uk
  81. Replies
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    I'm on the second attempt the top notes seem pretty close for me but its once they disappear that mine is quite different to the real thing. Personally I think trying to mimic these real perfumes is...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Thank you for your responses.

    Paul I've never actually had green tea but I'm very familiar with the smell of black tea! But that was a great insight, thank you for your input.

    I have...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Now that you mention it I think it may well be damascone. There is a fresh citrus ozone note too. I'm thinking this could be ozonil? Hmmm I assumed there was an overdose of dihydromyrcenol in GIT.
    ...
  84. Replies
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    Tea note in green Irish tweed

    Hi does anyone know what the fruity green tea note is in GIT. Its prevalent after the top notes have disappeared. And lasts quite some time. It seems to have similarities to green tea givco but is...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Lavender extension

    Try lavender base by payan Bertrand- this goes down to the base of the perfume. Also try to use ethyl linalool which outlasts linalool
  86. Replies
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    I do have a small sample bottle of imperial millesime. Next time I spray it I will be on the look out for this note. What synthetic ketones are you referring to parker25mv?
  87. Replies
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    Really? Never even crossed my mind. I've smelt it in tom ford amber absolute - quite a bit of it is in there from what I can smell (by quite a bit I mean upto 0.5%) but I've never even noticed it in...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Alternative To Tobacco Oil

    I agree with the above comment tabanon is a very useful material in tobacco notes. It is quite expensive but I would say a 5% solution is equivalent to full strength tobacco absolute so it does work...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Paul's Thread

    Thanks Paul. I have read many of your contributions on this forum and I for one can definitely say i have learnt a great deal from you in addition to other experienced perfumers such as David Ruskin...
  90. Re: Has anyone ordered bottles from Alibaba?

    I have ordered from Alibaba. I would say check the feedback of the seller and make sure you buy from a seller offering trade assurance. This makes sure if there are any problems you will eventually...
  91. Replies
    6
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    Re: Saffron

    Delta damascone to me is a distinctly rosy saffron note whereas alpha and beta damascone are more fruity/dry fruit/plum rose. I think delta damascone provides the anchor for a saffron note and adds...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Saffron

    I'm assuming you meant safranal? I've never smelt this however for saffron sweetness you can try delta damascone or ethyl safranate.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Perfume - how to improve longevity?

    I agree with the others that restricting yourself to purely natural ingredients would greatly reduce your options. Personally I would add sanjinol javanol rosalva and rose Crystal's which would...
  94. Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    I think ambrain or olibanum would work very well with this mix. Acetanisole or anisyl acetate would work well too especially if you incorporate the floral aspects of grand soir. In addition patchouli...
  95. Replies
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    Under ifra guidance and the EU cosmetics directive substances that are restricted in use or are irritants have to be explicitly named in the list of ingredients. Any other substances can be placed...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Copycats... Again >:(

    Con-li you are absolutely correct. There was also a case with a Dutch court:

    https://www.patentbaristas.com/archives/2010/01/19/smelly-rights-copyright-in-perfume/

    I understand where you guys...
  97. Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    I am on a journey of cloning perfumes in order to learn how to build different types of perfumes. I use a few ways to do this:

    1. Fragrantica - I use note pyramids to provide clues about what...
  98. Replies
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    That's a great point. I was actually thinking its 1% of the final product. Just a side note, I purchased a perfume dating from the 1960s and I assume it doesnt have any BHT in it, or perhaps it does....
  99. Replies
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    Re: Bringing a fragrance to market

    In the UK as pears has stated you have to register the product on the EU database and it has to have been tested in addition to correct labeling.

    In addition any business requires public liability...
  100. Re: "Burping" and the General Aging of Fragrances

    The ultrasonic sound waves will penetrate thin glass. The one I had had a water bath which you could heat up to the desired temperature. I put the e liquid into bottles and sealed them and put them...
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