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  1. Re: New times for Guerlain: better start looking after something new?

    No start-up niche company or individual artisan perfumer has the resources Guerlain can draw on - century-old links in the essential oils trade, the family-owned plantations, the formulas. Even if...
  2. Re: Dark Incense Close to Norma Kamali Incense?

    Agree. Messe, Shal Nuur etc. are great, but completely different animals. And Portos :eek: ? Not the old Profvmvm either (which was thick and dark but pretty synthetic as well).

    sent from a...
  3. Thread: Bygones

    by the_good_life
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    Re: Bygones

    Green Irish Tweed. It was the only one of the "modern" Creeds of that period (MI, SMW, Himalaya) I liked, but I sold my bottle a few years ago and have not missed it even for a moment. The whole...
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    Re: profumum roma

    Mediocre fare stuffed with synthetics where they don't belong. Half-baked unbalanced compostions with niche pretensions. And ridiculously overpriced. In other words, the Italian Bond No. 9. If you...
  5. Re: Great FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Interview, - Interesting slant on All Natural Scents too

    Classical music hasn't fallen out of favor. It's reception has merely always largely been restricted to elites and the educated bourgeoisie.
    I would point out that none other than Mandy Aftel...
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    Re: SOTD: Monday, June 9, 2014

    35 Centigrade here. Acqua Classica
    di Borsari


    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  7. Re: Sandalwood comparison: Creed Bois de Santal & Crabtree & Evelyn's Extract of Mysore Sandalwood

    Question is which one of these you'll even manage to acquire. Either would be worth having, I would take whatever I could get, if money is no issue.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any...
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    Re: Tweed overcoat?

    To me it would suggest country, which I can pull off in town as a university person. Might be harder in banking or law. Mine js vintage Manx Tweed in a trenchcoat style. Softer and lighter than...
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    Re: Ténéré by Paco Rabanne

    I wrote a piece on Ténéré a while ago:
    http://perfumedpolitics.blogspot.de/2011/07/desert-rose-lost-in-time-paco-rabannes.html
  10. Re: old hyped frags which rarely get mentioned now

    Yeah, that name and then no oud, whatta loser... It is still his best creation, the one that stands with the greats, but trendiness knows no mercy...

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any...
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    Re: good inexpensive Italian colognes

    Borsari Acqua Classica, it's quite nice (not Villoresi-nice- mind you, but lightyears above 4711), very trad and I believe I paid $20 for a 300ml Flacon at the time.

    Like so:...
  12. Re: Floris London Private Collection: Honey Oud, Leather Oud (2014)

    When is some outfit going to release an Oud perfume called "Beating a Dead Horse." Calling Etat Libre...
    That sustainable source of agarwood wouldn't be called Givaudan by any chance? Or have they...
  13. Re: I want something that screams "BDSM" - sexy, bold, alluring. What is it?

    Pascal Morabito Or Black (vintage only). Five stars from Luca "The Whip" Turin ;-). Dark, smokey, bittergreen hyper-fougère.
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    Re: NEW Parfum d'Empire Corsica Furiosa

    Your enthusiasm honors you. I'm genuinely intrigued. Happen to be wearing Cuir Ottoman today...
  15. Re: Off to London and Paris; where should I sniff?

    With a week in Paris, check out the Osmothèque at Versailles! A must for any perfumehead
    http://www.osmotheque.fr/osmotheque
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    Re: Best designer lemon for summer days

    Monsieur Balmain

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    Re: What's with the oud craze?

    In the western context Oud is a successful marketing strategy for positioning a largely synthetic woody note on the market. It fulfills all the requirements of a traditional orientalist narrative as...
  18. Re: Dazzling the Natural Perfumery Priestesses

    Natural perfumery as a philosophy is fine. As an ideology it's crippling.

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  19. Re: Best formal (suit and tie/tuxedo) fragrance releases in the past 5 years.

    I believe nobody has mentioned the obvious Black Tie by Washington Tremlett?

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    Re: Perfumes for the Eurovision!

    Hasn't Conchita Wurst launched a fragrance yet?

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any smelling mistakes
  21. Re: Enter the Nutmeg: "Cacharel pour Homme", 1981

    I just happen to be wearing this today (also an older bottle). It truly is one of the greats. Best between Halloween and Christmas ;)

    sent from a mobile device - please excuse any swelling mistakes
  22. Re: Just sent Jean Paul Gaultier a very firm email. Do you think it will work/is justified?

    "Shut up and buy what we offer you, worthless consumer drone."

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    Re: Is the Golden Age of Perfumery Over

    Yes, for a number of socio-cultural, economic and environmental reasons.
    The world is too fragmented today for "golden ages, " there can at best be golden subcultures. The haut-bourgeosie as...
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    Re: Why did Luca Turin dissapear from style?

    Oh, herzlich willkommen! Let's do lunch some time - I'm currently in Tübingen (in Quantum American Studies :D).
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    Re: nothing impresses me anymore

    Look at the margins, in the nooks and crannies. Perfumery is basically an industry that churns out 99% schlock for ignorant aspirational consumers. There's no art, creativity or soul to it, its...
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    Re: In Search of most divine Incense

    Do you mean divine in a theological or a hedonistic way? Not a spurious question when incense is concerned :)

    I must admit that Kamali's is awe-inspiring on both counts. Shame I only have two mls....
  27. Re: I can not stop buying fragrances so I am thinking about selling my collection!

    This. There is no doubt in my mind that with 500 perfume purchases in a year you are not actually interested in perfumes at all. Because it would take you a year to study twenty of them in any depth....
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    Re: Is my Creed Royal Oud real or fake?

    New to the international world of perfume etc ? Actually, even formulations are adapted to different markets. Just like McDonalds menues.
    Anyway, Dr. Seid already kindly provided the true answer to...
  29. Re: Am after a Tobacco fragrance with Zero Sweetness

    I think it's sweet. Not overly, but there's a noticable honeylaced pipe tobacco feel to it.
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    Re: 5 new from Creed

    Does every new release have to be like the Acqua Allegorias or Jo Malone? :D

    When Guerlain launched the AA line that was a new, innovative concept, both intelligently expanding the brand's...
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    Re: my opinion on the creed fragrances

    So when are you going to try the great ones, the classic Creeds? Bois De Portugal, Royal Delight, Royal English Leather, Bai de Genievre, Orange Spice, Neroli Sauvage, Royal Scottish Lavender ? Not...
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    Re: 5 new from Creed

    A green tea scent. How, um, retro... Asian is supposed to mean as opposed to European or Antarctic green tea?
    A "white" cedar scent? Did M. Creed come across some bottles of Acca Kappa and mix them...
  33. Re: Am after a Tobacco fragrance with Zero Sweetness

    If you could get your hands on some Virginia by Villoresi - it was a special limited edition. Bone dry cured tobacco leaves, with an almost salty immortelle tinge, nothing sweet for miles around. I...
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    Re: Nutmeg scents

    Cacharel pour homme. Fabulous natural nutmeg ornamented with a demure citrus top and fine woody base. Perfecf for autumn and winter.

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    Re: Today I bought: D E C E M B E R 2013

    So true!

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    Re: 1994- The best year for Male Frag's

    1925. Knize Ten. Nuff said.

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  37. Re: Ever embarrassed to reaveal which fragrance you're wearing if its expensive?

    If the issue of cost comes up you could always affectedly reply: "I never look at the price tag, darling."
    Of course, that may leave an even stronger impression than the perfume.
    It's too bad you...
  38. Re: What are your picks of natural smelling scents for summer, but designers only?

    Villoresi Acqua di Colonia (doesn't just smell, IS natural)
    Florascent Regia (dito)
    Monsieur Balmain
    Eau de Rochas pour homme (vintage, if at all possible)
    Acqua di Parma Colonia
    MPG Fraiche...
  39. Re: Co-op fabric softener smells like Creed

    Another one that Creed plagiarized.
    Somewhere there's a tropical air freshener that smells like Aventus - not sure which batch, though.
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    Re: An Idealized Future

    Yeah: LEGALIZE IT!
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    Re: The Forum Has Changed in the last 5 years

    Well, that's precisely the consumer this industry (like most) wants, a well-earning, well-conditioned consumer-capitalist drone. And that is part of the mad cycle of ever more substancless,...
  42. Re: Does anyone think VIW smells like athlete's foot powder?

    No, but when Creed release Royal Athlete's Foot in the future, rest assured it will exclusively consist of naturally infused fungus scraped off the pieds royale of European aristocrats (Counts...
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    Re: SL La fille de Berlin

    Same here. To me it smells like something Duchaufour discarded three years ago as too lame... Remember the days when Lutens was a leader rather than a follower?
  44. Re: Your most loved and hated note in perfumery currently.

    love: authentic Mysore sandalwood
    hate: synthetic aquatics (honorable mention: royal pineapple)
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    Re: Another creed aventus thread...,

    I'd go with C THRU BS
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    Every basenotes thread I open on my phone turns...

    Every basenotes thread I open on my phone turns into an Aventus thread...

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  47. Re: Yesterday and Today: CAPUCCI pour Homme (from 1967)

    Agree, Weruska unfortunately sucks as a frag maker.
    bzw: let's not forget the brilliant R de Capucci, masterpeice of the 1980s
  48. Re: Cannot access 1000fragrances blog Nombre Noir new article

    It's indeed been switched to "by invitation only"
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    Patou pour homme and privé The Dukes of Pall...

    Patou pour homme and privé
    The Dukes of Pall Mall fragrances
    Vintage No. 88 by C&S and vintage 89 by Floris.
    Old Creeds: Tabarome, Bois de Santal in particular
    30ml bottle of Shalimar Extrait...
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    Broadly speaking this interview is a huge hot...

    Broadly speaking this interview is a huge hot fresh steaming pile of BS. Welk actually not so fresh. All the typical Creed PR talking points, naturals, skewed history, celeb name dropping, OC as...
  51. Re: Article: The Basenotes Fragrance Flanker Fabricator

    Hm, "Fresh Extrait" - is that what the people in military intelligence wear?
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    Re: SL La fille de Berlin

    Looking forward to this after many SL disappointments. German reviews have said it is a quality rose with unisex character, not unlike a Lutenized version of TDC Rose Poivrée. Hope the sample is in...
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    Oh but it is - and dumbed down mercilessly. It...

    Oh but it is - and dumbed down mercilessly. It would have taken Kubrick to translate this highly philosophical meditation into film (somewhere between Barry Lyndon and Shining).

    sent from a mobile...
  54. Somehow, fragrance has become the new plutonium....

    Somehow, fragrance has become the new plutonium. What did I miss?

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    The only sensible hard definition would be the...

    The only sensible hard definition would be the original economic meaning of a limited number of doors. The MBAs can discuss where exactly that limit lies.

    I think it would actually make more sense...
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    It is not older than Knize. The 1781 date is...

    It is not older than Knize. The 1781 date is fake. Actually REL is a copy of L'Origan with a leather note added. Whether one likes it or not it is not a bad perfume, excellent quality and...
  57. Re: Expensive Juice That Smells Like Something Cheap

    The name Bond almost automatically springs to mind, doen't it? When I tested Creed's Royal Oud it reminded me of a cheapo seventies masculine after about ten minutes. I've always found MI, SMV, OS...
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    Re: Why is Black Afgano so darn expensive?

    Thanks for eloquently summing up the modern "luxury" business, including perfumery. The success of conglomerats such as LVMH is based on charging excessively high prices for their "luxury" products...
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    Re: modern barbershop

    Good suggestions!
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    And for that there's already Sandalo per Teti. ...

    And for that there's already Sandalo
    per Teti.

    Nice to see you, ZZ :)

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    Re: Escrimeur by Detaille

    Must try that. I liked Aeroplane a lot, while Par 4 was very strange and cloying.
  62. Re: What's the strongest fragrance from L'Artisan Parfumeur ?

    It's not the house of choice in terms of longevity and sillage - you'd obviously be better served by Serge Lutens, Mazzolari or Nasomatto, to name a few. But if you mean to perversely challenge the...
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    Re: Textbook Chypre and Textbook Fougere

    There is no such thing as the textbook fougère, chypre etc. anymore. In the first case, the range would lead you from Geo. Trumper's Wild Fern (trad.) through Beene Grey Flannel to Dior Fahrenheit,...
  64. Re: Tabac Original EDC is actually really good!

    Yeah, despite all the love for this I just find it godawful, it's very old school (fine by me) and the ingredient quality is atrocious - as opposed to the equally cheap and Old School Alt-Innsbruck,...
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    Poll: Re: Who likes Grossmith's Saffron Rose?

    Quality ingredients but quite imperfect construction in the top notes (the rose smells strangely incomplete and empty) and never more than nice afterwards. Not worth the money IMO.
  66. Re: pleaz halp - CREED fakes are getting BRILLIANT

    Creed in 2012 is pure mondo bizarro. Fandom, batchdom, fakedom - way down down down in this subbacultcha...
  67. Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    Very difficult now. There used to be old stock Cotswold floating around, but that seems dried up and I only managed to get Belgravia Cologne per chance as a gift from a fellow BNer - I've posted a...
  68. Poll: Re: Should I urinate into this O'Driù fragrance?

    The vintage perfume users among us have sprayed thesmelves with anal secretions of civets, deer musk and whale vomit, so a little pee shouldn't be such a big deal. It's all in the mind, isn't it. A...
  69. Re: Your favourite traditional British perfume house

    If it's British perfume tradition you're looking for in a British house, I'd have to agree that Trumper's is really all there's left. The quality of Floris has become a bad joke and Penhaligon's is...
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    I think it is fantastic, given the low grade...

    I think it is fantastic, given the low grade materials Penhaligons uses. If this were made with a total commitment to quality it would rival Shalimar and the likes.

    sent from a mobile device -...
  71. Cost cutting doesn't end with the juice, sadly....

    Cost cutting doesn't end with the juice, sadly. I'll say that my Blenheim gift box with atomizer was quite nicely done but in the end we're talking mass production at luxury prices. And holding...
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    Re: Patou Pour Homme, I give up.

    Oh yes, it's one of the finest creations ever. Perfect balance, mastery of the old French style of complex perfumery "pour hommes" are rarely treated to. Doesn't mean you'll like it, it bears the...
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    Re: Orientals: Universally Unisex?

    Any thoughts here on why the oriental style only came to be marketed to men so late in modern Western perfume history? Old Spice (originally launched as a women's scent!) is the first I'm aware of...
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    Re: Creed Windsor

    Nothing that expensive should ever be bought blind. You may just not like it, or it may give you headaches, which it did to me.
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    Re: kiehl's aromatic blends

    They are actually marketing these as "based on natural essences," though they are evidently not natural perfumes. I find that approach to be a huge turnoff.
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    Re: Tom Ford Seller on ebay - very cheap

    I think it's still way too expensive for most Tom Fords. But that's just me :D :D :D
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    Re: Santal Majuscule by Serge Lutens

    I got my sample as well. It's a well-made perfume, but not very original. he sandalwood is pleasantly unscreechy, the rose accord smells to me like Duchaufour's candied-fruit work in Paestum Rose and...
  78. Re: Article: Discount Store Lidl Releases G.Bellini X-Bolt Male Fragrance

    For leaving basenotes?
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    Re: Good "natural" colognes for men?

    If you want an actual Eau de Cologne, Lorenzo Villoresi Acqua di Colonia is the prime choice - all natural oils.

    I would strongly second La Via del Profumo, one of the mosrt brilliant natural...
  80. Re: The Definitive Chanel Eau de Cologne Thread

    I can't imagine you'd enjoy Chanel's Eau as a replacement for any Guerlain. While the latter are not entirely natural, their aesthetic is clearly traditional, while Chanel is a modern in-your-face...
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    Re: Next Lutens?

    L'Eau Froide, as the name subtly suggests, is hardly a warm incense, it's chilly and decidedly un-Lutens if you take Ambre Sultan as a classic representative of the line. But then neither is the much...
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    Re: creed: a fairy tale

    So you chose the red pill :).
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    Re: Pal Zileri Pivata Collezione

    Pal Zileri is lousy at fragrance marketing, that's for sure...The scents are not as upmarket as they would like to be, but they couild be a goo9d deal more successful with more effort. Guess they are...
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    Poll: Re: Who is the greatest living perfumer?

    This. No offense, but me thinks such polls are rather beside the point.
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    Re: Wow...this is kind of disgraceful.

    True, but still illegal.
  86. Re: 7 Fragrance Lectures: Turin, Buxton et al

    Duh, I'm in Germany and I miss this...hopeless. Thanks so much for the link!!! :).
  87. Poll: Disliked it from day one. synthy iso e super...

    Disliked it from day one. synthy iso e super bomb. Where Sycomore gets everything right, EN does it wrong. My humble opinion.

    Gesendet von meinem GT-I9001 mit Tapatalk 2
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    Re: Anyone try Melvita organic fragrances?

    Just received my Orange Zest bought on ebay. It really is very nice, not perfume really, but very refreshing and high quality orange in there. Very nice for stuffy August days indeed.
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    Re: Frustration...

    Provided you've made sure you do not suffer from nose fatigue (have you checked with co-workers etc.) I suggest the Mazzolari line - hard core stuff, especially Lui; Also Musc Ravageur by Malle, most...
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    Re: Is Floris Elite...........?

    vintage 89 it is! The older the version , the more barbershoppy (mine is from the early 80s and it's hardcore)
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    Re: Three Crowns Sandalwood

    Got my stuff just now. I actually like the Cella - as you say it's a typical mediterranean-style Edc, aromatic citrus, lemony-thyme-powdery-soap, very Italian or Spanish barbershop. From memory I'd...
  92. Re: Creed Bois du Portgal. Where has all the love gone?

    Yeah. Also, it's a rather simple fragrance - something to wear rather than to talk much about. And an autumn affair, to be sure.
  93. Re: Any BS's into wetshaving? Straight razor or double edged?

    I've found that electric gives me rashes under the chin, so I learned to wetshave with a safety-razor and once you get the knack, find the roight products and observe the rituals, it seems like a...
  94. Re: Why not drop €8000 on something really special?

    This. Same with clothes - bespoke means possibilities beyond your wildest dreams plus top quality, but it takes a good deal of knowledge to know what you really want. And money, of course. Buxton...
  95. Re: CHANEL "BOIS NOIR" on eBay - Auction starts at 849 USD

    It wouldn't be better than vintage Bois des Iles perfume anyway, would it? But I can understand the "must have" factor.
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    Re: Whats up with Mancera?

    Considering the revelations about Montale I suspect this is the same spiel by the same Arab entrepeneur using a French front, only now the "perfumer's" name is Pierre Mancera (how original). I...
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    Re: Three Crowns Sandalwood

    thanks, just ordered a bottle and some blades. Also a sample of the Cella EdC.
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    Re: Ryan Lochte – CREED

    Thanks, you made my day :D.
  99. Re: Turnbull & Asser of Jermyn Street Eau de Cologne by Penhaligon's

    Too bad, but no surprise. I still can't figure out why they would only sell this in Australia?!
  100. Re: Penhaligons Turnbull & Asser Cologne Arrived

    Interesting, I suppose miracles were not to be expected. Further impressions are welcome indeed.
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