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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    It's a particular notion of beautiful-not pretty, but animalic.

    Another one I don't remember you talking about was Eloge du traitre, which is a fresh green fougere-in a way, as Je suis was a a...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    So it seems the house is really a no for you.

    Interesting reaction to Rien incense intense. To me it is pretty close to Rien, and I don't get burnt. But it's certainly strong, and as usual we are...
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    Re: Frederic Malle The Night worth the price?

    I remember one of the Malles being described as oud + poal by the brand-likely it's this one. Nuclear power indeed.

    cacio
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    Re: Frederic Malle The Night worth the price?

    Welcome!

    I agree with you that the Night is great and for what I have smelled it's the best straightforward western alcohol based oud. So if budget is not a concern and you do want to go the...
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    Re: Montale samples, any suggestion?

    As Asha said, Montale tends to be very strong, dark, and heavy-which is not what your gf is looking for. However, there are some citruses and similar in the line. I would still recommend trying one...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    Experimental organic chemistry... But certainly that smell is not there in fresh citrus.
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    Cook bot

    I think the olive oil reference is spot on. I had the same impression. Except that for me this is what rotten fruit smells. I remember I once had a rotting grapefruit in a bowl on the top...
  8. Re: Brutal: Shipr/Chypre edc (1889) by Novaya Zarya/Brocard.

    Thanks for the heads up-I know nothing of Russian perfumes, so I'm curious.

    It would also be interesting to know the relation between the originals of the XIX century and their successive...
  9. Re: Sweet fruitiness in Tuscan Leather activated by sweat!

    10 sprays of Tuscan Leather in a gym would be almost scary. Interesting that heat tones down the leather and brings forth the fruit. Perhaps you will want to explore other fruity leathers where the...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    Archives 69 is another favorite of mine. I perceive a strong rotten fruit note-I must be oversensitive-that adds a lot of interest. It's a note Nagel uses in other perfumes (like Fendi Theorema and...
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    Re: A few questions about powerhouse fragrances

    Concurring with hednic. Kouros is a world on its own, and these are not like that. Not as dark as Antaeus, but they are elegant.
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    Re: Rose Varieties—Help!

    In my experience, the mention of a rose variety is usually pure marketing, whatever sounds best in the description. In theory, but you'll know this more than me, damascenas tend to be darker,...
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    Re: Bond no. 9 suggestions

    Chinatown is by far my favorite in the line as well. Not sure I'd recommend anything blind. If must be, Fire island is a nice beachy jasmine. I own Great jones, which is a citrus masculine.

    cacio
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    Re: Tarry. Burnt. Leather.

    Great suggestions already (I like in particular Lonestar Memories). Adding a couple more: No perfume by The Zoo and Beaufort 1805 Tonnerre.
  15. Re: Scent from a shipwreck: recreating a lost perfume

    Thanks! Interesting. Now, citrus surviving from the mid 1800s has me a little skeptical, but who knows.

    cacio
  16. Re: Made my first in person major store Purchase in covid era

    Good that the stores are starting to reopen, if in such a silly way.

    Makes me want to buy something in person as well. But not sure there's much here in DC (also because there is currently no...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    Getting to some of my faves. Yes, Attaquer is big on labdanum-at least some facets (it's not as dark and sweet as some other labdanums can be). And the perfume goes in a drier, incense direction...
  18. Thread: Auphorie

    by cacio
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    Re: Auphorie

    Sadly, not priced for my income bracket.

    Auphorie did a great job with osmanthus in Miyako, so this could be good as well.
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    Re: To spend or not to spend? That is the question!

    Truly good oud oils do cost $400+ per 3 ml. Still, not something I'd want to buy blindly.
    They did osmanthus very well in Miyako
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    Re: New to Fragrances- would love a bit of help!

    Meharees is somewhat different, I'd say sweeter in the base, but from your comments on Meharees, I don' t think Musc Ravageur would be what you're looking for.
    There are many sweet spicy gourmand...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    I like I am trash a lot. Nicely fresh and citrusy for the season. True it doesn't last that long, but that's common to most citrusy perfumes. I think the trash part is the usual ELdO tongue-in-cheek....
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    Re: Mouchoir de Monsier by Guerlain questions

    Good point, vintage Eau d'Hermes also had a lot of civet.
  23. Thread: Which oud?

    by cacio
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    Re: Which oud?

    David

    re: what's a skanky oud, most would consider stuff like Dior Leather oud or Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie.
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    I could certainly be worn by a professional and sophisticated man when, after dropping his professional clothes, he's decided to wear a leather jacket and go about town.
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    Re: Mouchoir de Monsier by Guerlain questions

    I agree that more civet could give the effect you are describing. But the citrus will be more notable in newer batches.

    cacio
  26. Thread: Which oud?

    by cacio
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    Re: Which oud?

    Oud can certainly work for office, especially if one does not overspray.

    I find oud satin mood a bit too strong in the drydown. among office friendly ones, I'd count Cartier oud and by Kilian pure...
  27. Re: Please recommend some musky scents for the summer

    I think Kiehl's musk has (or had) a lot of galaxolide, a musk which I can barely smell-so I could barely smell it after the dirty start. I have not smelled recent iterations. Not sure which other...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    Larry
    it seems the house is really not for you. You seem to like only a couple of the dark ones.

    Cheapimitation
    interesting about the sweetness-let's see if you think the same as you go through...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    ThVH

    I concur with Rien (or Rien incense intense) if you're thinking about leather and animalics, and Attaquer le soleil (if you are thinking dark incense).

    cacio
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    Re: Which fragrances should I add?

    I would add Cristalle for spring or summer. Aramis 900 for fall/winter. Acqua di Parma colonia for the summer (you don't list it as expensive, but it's quite expensive here)

    cacio
  31. Re: What kind of people would these Chanel fragrances be most suitable for?

    The cristalles and 19 are green and on the colder side, so I imagine an impeccably elegant, but cold person.
  32. Re: Looking for some recommendations and opinions for my new perfume, new here

    Welcome!
    You have a good set to try. I see you have some vetivers-which I agree is an excellent alternative to citrus in the fresh department. I tend to prefer the drier, zingier varieties (like...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    They got out a big set early on, but now the pace is quite normal, like one or max two a year. I don't think that they have discontinued anything, but probably they don't distribute the whole set...
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    Re: L'Artisan Parfumeur "Unmissable Summer Offers"

    Thanks for letting us know. In the end I decided to go ahead and get Safran Troublant, which I just received today.
    More spicy and less creamy than I remember (or perhaps it's the hot weather). But...
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    Re: Going through Etat Libre d'Orange sample set

    ELdO is perhaps my favorite house, so looking forward to hearing your comments. In fact, I'd say that the ones you've tried so far are not my favorites in the brand. I'll wait to say what my...
  36. Re: Designer Beauty Products Sale at Neiman Marcus . Up to 50% OFF .

    They also have some profumi del forte on sale.
  37. Re: Which is your favourite Lily-of-the-Valley perfume ?

    Thanks for the description. Interesting about the pear-but it's true that lotv has a certain fruitiness.
    As said, I'll have to reexamine Odalisque-to me it feels quite strongly floral and chypre....
  38. Re: Which is your favourite Lily-of-the-Valley perfume ?

    I did not notice the muguet in Odalisque (a perfume I like), so I'll need to go back and check.
    Somehow, lily of the valley tends to appear in many perfumes I like (Metal in primis). And I also like...
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    Re: L'Artisan Parfumeur "Unmissable Summer Offers"

    Tempted by Safran Troublant (I already have Dzing).

    cacio
  40. Re: I’m looking for vintage spicy leather/woods scent

    I hadn't noticed the reference to cumin. Al oudh for cumin in niche brands. In mainstream, the reference is eau d'hermes.
  41. Re: Which ten fragrances best represent the history of men's perfume?

    Agree with many suggestions.

    4711 (or some other traditional eau de cologne recipe)
    Guerlain Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur (old style fougere)
    Knize Ten (leather)
    Caron pour un homme (lavender)...
  42. Re: Which ten fragrances best represent the history of women's perfume?

    I agree with your points. An americana is clearly needed, and Youth Dew seems the one.

    I ignored the scrubbed clean floral (ie eau d'issey), but clearly they are needed to understand the past 30...
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    Re: Estee Lauder Youth Dew..........for men?

    I agree with Mike, the blue plastic bottle looks gorgeously midcentury modern.

    Btw, I could still detect the drop of oil on my arm this morning, 18 hours after application.
  44. Re: Which ten fragrances best represent the history of women's perfume?

    Limiting oneself to what's currently available:

    Guerlain Mitsouko (reference chypre)
    Guerlain Shalimar (oriental)
    Chanel No 5 (so many things about it)
    Paou Joy (is it still available?)
    Fracas...
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    Re: Estee Lauder Youth Dew..........for men?

    Finally after months, I went out to a store. Walking through Macys, I decided I had to get something, and so after the recommendation I decided to get the bath oil. Indeed, still kicking. One drop...
  46. Re: I’m looking for vintage spicy leather/woods scent

    Do you mean you want to get the current version of some vintage perfume, or actually try actual vintage stuff?

    Anyway, Chanel Antaeus is a reference spicy-woody-leathery. it was definitely a...
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    Re: Estee Lauder Youth Dew..........for men?

    Thanks for the heads up on the current oil. I used to put some drops in an unscented shower gel. I'll do it again this winter.
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    Re: Estee Lauder Youth Dew..........for men?

    I need to retry the current bath oil to see if it's still nuclear powered. That was the ultimate bang for the buck. Put a few drops in the bath and smell the whole day.
  49. Re: English Leather: The Downmarket Cousin to Knize Ten

    Indeed, they must be off. After all these were bottles kept in the bathroom in the light-so no surprise there.
  50. Re: Blind Buy Disappointment: The Basenotes in Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta

    Yes, the traditional colonia line goes into a neroli-soapy drydown. So I guess you won't like these colonias.

    There's not much a citrus can go into. If it's not soapy, it can be green-vetiver....
  51. Re: What “feminine” marketed fragrance would you most like to smell on a man?

    Same for my collection. Too many to cite, but I'd single out Calandre, a rose chypre.

    cacio
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    Re: Latest Diptyque Release - Eau Capitale!

    Resurrecting this because I was watching a video (of a beauty editor, not a perfume specialist), who talked about Eau capitale as a lighter Portrait of a lady. This is the same as Antonpan. i didn't...
  53. Re: List and discuss newish fougeres ('nougeres') released over the past 10 years or so .....

    I sprayed El quickly during a trip when I was smelling lots of stuff, so it didn't register. But clearly I have to smell again now...
  54. Re: List and discuss newish fougeres ('nougeres') released over the past 10 years or so .....

    Seconding what Sheik was saying-actually, in Rogue perfumery, Mousse illuminee seemed to me more fougere than chypre, despite the name.
  55. Re: List and discuss newish fougeres ('nougeres') released over the past 10 years or so .....

    I quite liked Le Galion Sang Bleu. It's a cleaned up Kouros (which means that it is still dirtier than most fougeres).

    Also, taking note of The Zoo Louis, which feels like Laudamiel's synthetic...
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    It was so hot here last week that the moss and lapsang souchong drydown was a bit lost. But really this is probably more of a fall/winter perfume.

    cacio
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    Re: Suggestions for a niche summer 2020 scent?

    I currently enjoy I am trash by Etat Libre d'Orange: citrusy, a touch floral, very clean despite the usual ELdO funny names.
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    Re: Getting to know Montale

    Montale is indeed more about oud/dark/leather rather than freshies.

    I'd say no matter what you have to try an oud. Black Aoud is probably the most classic, but any will do. Lime aoud is probably a...
  59. Thread: Sample packs

    by cacio
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    Re: Sample packs

    Etat libre d'orange sells a set of samples of their collection.
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    Re: Fragrance Suggestions for a Mother

    Dior poison is very good, but it's quite thick and sweet, so it's often a love or hate thing. La Vie est belle is very sweet, so again it depends on whether she likes sweetness.

    Philosykos is a...
  61. Re: Female Niche Fragnance for my Girlfriend's 30th birthday

    Welcome!

    If your girlfriend seems to like by Kilian, you can check Pure oud (an oud, she seems to like oud wood by tom ford), or Bamboo harmony (light but long lasting clean tea-floral).
    Or you...
  62. Re: Histoires De Parfums, 1740 "Marquis de Sade" ...HO! LEE! MOLY!!!

    What I smelled recently still has a lot of immortelle, which I like. But if you didn't like it back then you won't like it now.
  63. Re: English Leather: The Downmarket Cousin to Knize Ten

    I just received my bottles, bought on ebay, an aftershave and a cologne. Sadly, the aftershave is ruined, the top smells off. Underneath, a light musk and some powder but no obvious leather. The...
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    Re: Layering oils/attars? Vetiver with...??

    Not an expert, but vetiver plus frankincense make a good combo (See timbuktu or Le Labo vetiver).
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    Re: Fragrance Suggestions for a Mother

    Also perhaps something else from the Estee Lauder group, like Estee Lauder Muse.
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Piney
    I find jasmin antique to be predominantly a big, dirtyish jasmine. Sarrasins is a composition, jasmine certainly (but not as big), but also some fruitiness, soft leather, other florals.
    cacio
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    Re: Need Your Expertise: Citrus/Herbal Aromatic

    Welcome!
    Some great suggestions already. Citrus tend to be shortlived, though, so don't expect citrus notes that last that long.
    To add another citrus with some herbs, Azemour les oranger. Also...
  68. Re: Tell me about men and fragrance... in the 1930's. [a question inspired by Caron Pour un Homme]

    Very interesting discussion-a lot of food for thought.

    One thing I am surprised about is the idea of perfume as loss leader. I find it really strange. It is true that profit margins were not what...
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    Re: New Rogue Perfumery: Tuberose & Moss!!!

    It circulated in a sample pass. Essentially a big, fat tuberose. The moss doesn't come out, but probably it helps with power and longevity. Very good.
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Some samples are on their way to the next person.

    Thank-you so much for sharing! There's always a lot to discover in this house. debating when to purchase jasmin antique...
  71. Re: Tell me about men and fragrance... in the 1930's. [a question inspired by Caron Pour un Homme]

    Interesting that there's a lot about perfume in ads in the 30s. I wouldn't have thought so.
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    Re: Classy fragrance NON-vetiver based

    If you don't like vetiver, and you don't want anything wintery and too warm, it seems to me that two directions you could go into are either classic fougeres or citrus chypres (but this second...
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    Re: Chanel Pour Monsieur bottles

    I think this thread qualifies as perfume p*rn.
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    Re: Looking for a great non-dominant vanilla note

    welcome!

    I think that Guerlain does vanilla really well, most of the times. Mouchoir de Monsieur is still a reference vanillic fougere. It's not dark though, quite the opposite. Shalimar/Habit...
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    Re: No stores- I'm bummed....

    I do miss too being able to smell in stores. Really difficult to know what's going on then.
    I have purchase a couple of things without problems so far (I live in a building with a doorman), but...
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    I didn't get much moss either in tuberose and moss, but that's because I perceived it as a huge tuberose (no bad thing of course). A smoother tuberose than the JAR (Eclair/bolt of lightning), but...
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    Re: Tried after reading the Guide 2018

    Yesterday night I rechecked Le Mat. One spitz in the inner elbow at night. In the morning, it was still there. So good longevity.
  78. Re: Which houses in your collection do you have 3 or more bottles so far

    Hednic's post kills everybody else's.

    I'd need to check, but my top one must be Etat Libre d'Orange with perhaps a dozen.
  79. Re: Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir vs Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir Intense

    Thanks!
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    Re: Stetson Cologne - What to expect?!

    Unfortunately, I have not smelled very old formulations-I have a bottle from the 1980s but it is ruined. Usually, the bigger differences in formulations can be felt in the drydown, with older...
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    Re: Tried after reading the Guide 2018

    I bought a bottle and it has decent longevity on me.
    Who knows. Sometimes it's the air-dry, too hot, or the like.
  82. Thread: Missoni Wave

    by cacio
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    Re: Missoni Wave

    thanks for the link.
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    Re: Fragrance shelf life

    Concur with Danny. the 3 year thing is a silly number, probably just written down so that somebody falls for it and buys a new bottle.
    Perfume is mostly alcohol and can last decades if stored...
  84. Thread: Missoni Wave

    by cacio
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    Re: Missoni Wave

    Thanks! The list of notes doesn't make it seem like a vetiver. But more like a standard sporty fresh masculine. But who knows. we all miss not being able to go to a store and smell...
  85. Thread: Missoni Wave

    by cacio
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    Missoni Wave

    On an italian newspaper today I saw the title of an interview to Missoni's daughter (aka advertisement for the brand), where apparently she says that vetiver reminds her of her father, the founder of...
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    Re: Anything that hasn't been reformulated?

    Restrictions on materials make old style chypre and fougere impossible-and this extends to citrus as well (restrictions on citrus materials, plus most old style citruses were chypre'). Restrictions...
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    Re: Toxicity of the Fragrance

    Note however that these ingredients are contained in very small amounts. If they are regulated, they will be in doses smaller than those allowed. Usually, 90% or more of a perfume is alcohol. Of...
  88. Re: Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir vs Eau Parfumée au Thé Noir Intense

    Thanks for the description.I love the edc, I managed to score two bottle at TJ maxx when it was ddiscontinued. I had never seen the intense,not sure it was marketed here. The edc is exactly as you...
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    Re: How to sample and how to store?

    As zilpha was saying, perfumes can go bad after many years if not stored properly. But then they will clearly have off notes (stale, burnt, sharp, and what not). If a perfume feels ok but you don't...
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    Re: Amber in the 1980s

    I wonder, as fragrantregard was saying, whether it's not so much the ambers per se, but some of the accompanying ingredients and fixatives. Back then they had oakmoss, coumarin, and more musks,...
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    Re: Dior Homme flanker thread

    The original was quite innovative. It had the requisite gourmand notes, but then added a nice powdery iris,so both new century macho and a bit dandy. I think the flankers managed to remain true to...
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    Re: Leaking spritzer question

    Like hednic, I've never been able to fix efective spray mechanism. If the loss is excessive, decanting is a solution.
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    Re: Toxicity of the Fragrance

    IFRA, the self-regulating body of perfume companies, is extremely restrictive in what, and how much, can go into perfumes to be applied on the body. Too much in fact, most perfume lovers think that...
  94. Re: English Leather: The Downmarket Cousin to Knize Ten

    Thanks for the description. Sadly, I have only smelled the most recent English Leather, which is exactly as you say, a cheap, annoying musk ( I bought a mini in a pack that included Canoe and...
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    Re: Citrus Freshie Needed

    Another fresh and inexpensive citrus I enjoy is O de lancome.
  96. Re: Like Chanel Eau de Cologne, but more floral? A unisex citrus/floral/musk

    I love the Chanel Eau de cologne too (I'm at my second 400ml bottle), but I agree it's really a traditional edc, ie it isn't meant to last long.

    have not tried the Jo Malone, but I don't see...
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    will do
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    Re: Vintage or move to new scents altogether ?

    If you want chypre, indeed, you have to go vintage. So keep stocking up, there's still stuff that's not too expensive.

    But as others were saying, there are many wonderful things out there,...
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    Re: Sample Pass: Rogue Perfumery

    Trying tuberose and moss. A nice big, clean tuberose. Very good.

    I'll need to try flora and fauna again to see if it reminds me of something else-but it feels quite unique, especially among...
  100. Thread: Cologne

    by cacio
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    Re: Cologne

    Agree with others. 4711 is not as good as NP, but it's so much cheaper and one can splash with abandon, always a good thing with traditional eau de cologne. Among relatively cheap ones, my favorite...
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