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  1. Replies
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    Re: GC-MS for beginners

    Your blog is genuinely awesome. There's plenty of kvetching about reforms and what not (I'm so guilty of this) but you are actually testing things out. More of this please and thanks for the great...
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    Re: Name your Holy Grail. Have you found it yet?

    Haven't a clue! I've kept the boxes from both my older bottle and the newer one. And once I actually find them I'll compare the (rather small) lists of ingredients. The printed lists on the back of...
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    Re: Name your Holy Grail. Have you found it yet?

    A bottle of vintage Bandit EDT that doesn't require a mortgage =S

    And a circa 2000s/earlier bottle of Knize Ten,the new one is just instant headache spray for me, which I realize might be my own...
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    Re: Al Rehab fragrances

    I could see that being a big turn off for some folks. I don't mind so much for their ouds since I've got no natural baseline to compare (well, one Cambodian oud but that stuff just didn't count in my...
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    Re: Al Rehab fragrances

    Al Rehab deserves more BN love. They are dirt cheap fun (one Amazon vendor has the small roll ons for a buck) and some of them are excellent. Yes, most of them are closer to accords than actual...
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    Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    It really, really helps if people post Ref./Serial Numbers, date of purchase and the allergen list on the back. That way people can tell if they've got/are looking at a batch of post-reformulation or...
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    Re: Ignoring IFRA regulations.

    Which is sensible enough but the way they do it isn't. Dig around on their website to find the list of all ingredients used by their members and it's bizarre; oxalic acid (great for cleaning wood)...
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    Re: $1700 bottle of Creed huh?

    Really, once you get above $200 for a new bottle it's all the same to me. I'd go up to $100 for a new bottle and that's about it: the vintage deals on ebay kick the hell out of anything else. If you...
  9. Re: Perfumophiles: Do you ever step back and question yourself....

    Pefume would be a great hobby if you weren't limited to buying perfume and learning the canon of assorted advertising, apocrypha, and "note pyramids". If you love oil painting, buy some paints and...
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    Re: Guerlain classics worn by men

    1960s Shalimar EdC is the most animalic concoction in my modest collection, fantastic stuff. It starts off as deep oriental before the skanky undertones kick in. Most of my go-to masculines are just...
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    Re: L'Artisan Al Oudh

    I wasn't too impressed. The starting was decent but then the cumin took over sliming everything in a sweaty-sour-musty aura. Points to them for trying something a bit risky but it's not for me.
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    Re: Bois du Portugal....is it too early??

    BdP is the only Creed I've smelt and really enjoyed. I'm the same age as you and I'd do it. Then again I wear Knize Ten when I'm gardening (and everywhere else) so take that with a grain of salt.
  13. Re: Creed, really that good or just marketing hype.

    I humbly nominate these suggestions as the new subjects for bitter forum wars:
    -Bond No. 9: So much material for infighting.
    -late JC Ellena: minimalist masterpieces or lazy design?
    -Francois...
  14. Re: Why Dior reformuales perfumes? (legal aspect)

    Yup, I haven't bought a current release in ages with the exception of Knize Ten. It makes me too angry to get the wrong frag in the right bottle.
  15. Re: Why Dior reformuales perfumes? (legal aspect)

    Now this is fascinating and potentially good for us, thanks for the blog link. "Diorissimo, whose eau de parfum is not Edmond Roudnitskaís formula but FranÁois Demachyís, the eau de toilette still...
  16. Re: Cuir de Russie (Chanel) vs Cuir Ottoman vs Others... which would you buy?

    I'd go with Knize Ten. It's replaced Bandit as my everyday frag. Bandit is worth getting if you can find the right one but since no one's quite figured out which it is I'd say Knize :P
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    Spoilsport! :P
    Amouage: Amouage's advertising stories can beat Creed's if you are making bourgeoisie small talk at cocktail parties. Maybe Cary Grant really did have Green Irish Tweed made for him...
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    Chill out, broseidon. I was trying to explain to you why people were getting jumpy, I don't think anyone specifically accused you of being some social marketing plant.
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    No, no NO! You are doing it wrong! Don't spell out your conclusion, come to it immediately, preferably using phrases like "a foul agent of Creed's advertising Mammon", "an odious Creed quizling", "a...
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    They'd be fools not to do it, same for other companies. It takes almost no time, costs only what you pay for your poor schlub employee's time and (the best bit) it's perfectly targeted marketing....
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    We get a lot of Creed's social media advertising around here (or so we think?) and someone who's seen the storage room at the Creed headquarters might raise a few suspicious antennas. The Perfumista...
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    Re: Who sets the bar any higher than Creed?

    MUST ...RESIST ...CREED THREAD!!!
    Creed is pretty dull with the exception of the fury their marketing provokes in BN threads. Pluran nails it "Creed makes pleasant accords in structurally poverty...
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    Re: Drakkar Noir - Old Formula Again?

    Read this. http://www.perfumersapprentice.com/perfumersworkshop/Research_and_Articles/overdose.pdf

    Cross reference that with current IFRA standards and you may have part of your answer.
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    Re: The Baron Has Dropped His Shorts!

    My sources inform that the next victims on the regulatory chopping block are propan-2-yl methylphosphonofluoridate and Bacillus anthracis. Stock up on the Hugo Boss line before it's too late. =(
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    Re: The Baron Has Dropped His Shorts!

    Bis(2-chloroethyl) sulfide is the ultimate "knock'em dead" note in every World War One classic fragrance. Literally an entire generation of European men's most powerful memories would be evoked by...
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    Re: The most over priced house !

    All of them are grossly overpriced. The companies get a huge mark up on the ingredients and it would be criminal if they didn't require massive advertising campaigns. That the frag's composer...
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    Re: Macy's SA: "Hanae Mori owns Creed"

    "ICP" is an acronym eternally tainted by Insane Clown Posse, this makes me think og them in a Macy's trying to push Creed products.
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    Re: About Aramis

    A good description of Cabochard's original character and its relationship with Aramis....
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    Re: Creed Royal Oud

    This was the report I was looking for, thanks. Disappoint though.



    Hehe, I'd give Creed's Royal Pino Silvestre a shot. As crazes go, the oud ones been pretty disappointing in terms of the big...
  30. Re: Conceptual Artist Cherry Tree Makes Perfume From Her Urine

    If YSL can pull it off in Kouros I don't know what's stopping this gal.


    I'll regret this, but who is that guy?
    Edit: Three cheers for literacy, I'd skipped over the article's end. Um, yeah,...
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    Re: Knize 10 or M7 or Bel Ami .....

    All good choices but Knize Ten is the Great White Whale of masculines. Get it first, then Bel Ami, then M7.
  32. Re: LVMH to insource the manufacturing of their fragrances

    Very interesting, Burr's book lead me to believe that contracts were not part of usual perfume business but perhaps times have changed/he's wrong.
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    Poll: Re: Chanel Or Guerlain?

    Guerlain's recent releases are pretty dreadful but their old catalog clinches it for me. Chanel is certainly the stronger performer in recent years.
  34. Oh, excellent, excellent work. This section drew...

    Oh, excellent, excellent work. This section drew blood.
    Her weak defense of prohibition instead of labeling is about the best you can do for it but she makes the odd claim that "[labeling] is what...
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    Re: Does Jacques Polge need a break?

    This would be just perfect.
  36. Re: Haters of GREY FLANNEL: Why do you hate it?

    It's taken me a very long time to appreciate GF's opening. I still find it chokingly strong and powdery. If you are new to the frag, spray it on something clothing and walk away for an hour. The...
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    Re: Does Jacques Polge need a break?

    This is a term that deserves to enter the BN lexicon.

    On topic, he does very well given his schedule albeit. Most of the greats produce a handful of classics in their lifetime; Polge has produced...
  38. Re: Top ten worst releases by designers in 2010/2011

    Pretty much. I ignored designer releases for a year, came back and realized I'd missed nothing. Not surprising as most releases (niche/designer/whatever) are superfluous but still disappointing.
  39. Re: $250 to spend on perfume at Bergdorf's NYC this weekend...

    BG is great but while you are in town I'd mosey on down to Greenwich Village and drop by Aedes de Venustas. Even if you don't buy anything it's a tiny shrine to fragrance worth visiting and, for a...
  40. After continuing to search the various SCCS ban...

    After continuing to search the various SCCS ban recommendations I've found very little to support the assertion that they are the ones forcing the IFRA's regulatory hand. They did want to ban tagets...
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    There's so much material here to look into I'm a bit of a loss and where to start.

    She claims the IFRA prevented the ban of a nitrile, tagets, and oakmoss. So far she's correct about tagets .
    ...
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    Re: Suggestions for a challening fragrance

    Le Labo's Oud.

    Weird, weird, stuff. Turin's review is hilarious and while I don't find it "pornographic" it is intriguing stuff.
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    If, like me, you rarely read the front page, have a look at Persolaise's first installation of the interview, fascinating stuff.
  44. "Obviously, it’s not just the SCCS that are...

    "Obviously, it’s not just the SCCS that are trying to ban everything. There’s various groups of people who are looking at consumer safety and are making recommendations that things should be...
  45. Bravo, bravo, Persolaise! I've been waiting for...

    Bravo, bravo, Persolaise! I've been waiting for years for someone to ask these questions publicly and you've done a phenomenal job. Many thanks to Mrs. Hipgrave for giving the interview.

    So many...
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    Re: Top 5 most overhyped.

    Modern Shalimar
  47. Re: Interested in trying Bandit by Robert Piguet

    The gold-capped Alpin made EDT is very enjoyable, in my book. It's a pretty cheap formula compared to the other/older versions but it's ...unique. I think "Bandit as made by Terminator-cyborg...
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    Re: If you'd have the power...

    Coty.

    They are the ones behind all of the useless celebrity scents, CK, Kenneth Cole, Nautica, Adidas, etc.
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    Re: Suggestions for a challening fragrance

    Seconding Bandit, as usual (those folks should pay me), but I'd stick to the EDTs.
  50. Re: Mitsouko; Best Fragrance Ever Made says........

    I have a similar issue with Mitsouko but only for the basenotes. The top notes are promising and interesting but then the dry down ...isn't there. No oakmoss, nothing.
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    Re: Yet one more Luca Turin post

    Did you mean original Turin? In that case, I think I agree. That's much less helpful/funny. Interesting to compare the two.
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    Re: Yet one more Luca Turin post

    I find Chandler Burr to often be the former but I'm still pleased the NYT's has (had?) a perfume critic. To each their own.
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    Re: Yet one more Luca Turin post

    I think Turin useful. Edwards does a nice job at categorizing fragrances but that's not the guidance I needed when I first started nor is it really what I want now. It's like trying to pick out a...
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    Re: Yet another from Duchaufour

    Duchaufours yet to really do it for me but he seems well respected. As for the perfume, hmm .... the name and the "salty hints of sweat and urea" makes me imagine Timbuktu meets Secretions...
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    Re: Reformulation - A Red Herring?

    This gets into the ontological question that haunts perfumery: what is the perfume? We've dispelled the illusion that it enjoys the commercial continuity enjoyed by literature, i.e., that Guerlain's...
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    Re: Yet one more Luca Turin post

    Love them or hate them, Turin and Sanchez's book is a great leap forward for perfume, a mainstream publication treating it like the art form it (sometimes) is and not just bourgeois air freshener....
  57. Re: most $$$$ you've tried and did/would you buy it?

    By Killian Pure Oud/Incense Oud. Sold at $400-$500 per 50ml. I'd never consider buying them. The materials and the execution in no way justify the cost and the end product isn't great.
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    Re: YSL KOUROS: The Complete Set Review

    I point the finger, as usual, at the IFRA. Much of Kouros's musky/sweaty/unwashed base came from costus oil, now totally banned.
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    Re: Aramis Classic. Enyone wear it nowdays?

    Aramis is a grand present from the cruel perfume gods; it's a less floral Cabochard available in any drugstore for a reasonable price. The top notes are hell, but I notice that in a lot of the male...
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    Always pleased to be a thorn in the IFRA's side! It's fascinating to watch what can happen to an art form when there's no legal framework supporting its continuity. But I digress.

    I'll certainly...
  61. Re: I sorta like the smell of stale beer am I the only one with weird smell/odor interest?

    Confession: I find the smell of skunk (animal, not plant) really invigorating at a safe distance.
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    Re: GIT: dominant ingredient

    20% according to Dragoco's Martin Gras! (Well Cool water is, and I'm in the camp that they are largely the same composition).
    Allyamyl glycolate 3%
    Ambroxan 1%

    Compare with these knock-off...
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    Agreed. It looks like the IFRA reworked its voting system when it merged with regional groups last year. A very enlightening post from Perfumer&Flavorist (pardon the length):

    Each year the...
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    Re: CREED - "to be or not to be"!

    Just the last 5-10 Guerlain releases?! Guerlain fanboy! :P
    ...I think I just counted 46 releases between now and the last above-average Guerlain frag. Mind you, I've not smelt all of the ones in...
  65. Re: What if Creed decided to bring out a fragrance?

    I think they already had some intellectual property issues between the band and the perfume but I'd have to check the EU patent registry thingy.
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    Re: My little trip to Saks

    I was at Sak's 5th last month and had a surprisingly great time with the SA's. The Chanel SA (I'm forgetting her name right now) was delightful, as were the Guerlain folks. Maybe they were just...
  67. Re: Suggestions for Prince William and Kate on Wedding Day

    Prince William-Joop!
    Kate- Rebecca Black's upcoming celebrity scent
    Queen-Kouros
  68. Replies
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    It's a good question and I can only respond with speculation. There are two reasons that leap to mind: that there are plenty of aromachemicals restricted but not the ones currently under patent and...
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    Re: Cuir de Russie by Chanel- Vintage Parfum

    They run about $150 at the Saks Fifth boutique if that's helpful to anyone.
  70. Re: On the advice of some here.....I tried some unusual fragrances today....

    Unfortunately, I don't find much to get in today's Shalimar compared with yester-year's =( The current one is akin to expensive baby powder, the earlier one is epic.
  71. Re: Is this the oldest Creed bottle you've ever seen ?

    I'd be A ok with it if they just did tributes to people, like Aventus. Abusing history isn't cool, especially since most folks won't know the flimsiness of the claim ....and because it seems to work....
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    Moooar questions!

    These are phrased bitchily but paint them with a little tact and you've got some nice harpoons to throw.

    1. Critics have panned new IFRA-forced reformulations as pale...
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    Re: Creed present at Creation!

    I've rebumped that one to see if it gets more bites. The more Fool's Day threads the better.
  74. Re: I did it - I bought the Dukes of Pall Mall license

    Whoa, whoa, whoa! No follow ups?! How goes the business life?
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    Re: Le Labo to try...

    Try the Oud.
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    Re: So... what would you like to ask IFRA?

    1. Why limit natural materials with centuries of use while putting no cap on dangerous chemicals (Strychnidin, Crotonaldehyde, Xylene, etc.) and known skin irritants (Oxalic acid, etc.)?

    I've got...
  77. Re: Niche Houses being ABSOLUTE bettet than the rest... Placebo affect?

    Some are, some aren't.

    This hinges on your definition of "niche". Some brands called niche let larger companies do the actual production (I think Serge Lutens frags are still made by Shiseido but...
  78. Re: Niche Houses being ABSOLUTE bettet than the rest... Placebo affect?

    Agreed. I've not been around too long but from what I've seen all of the generalizations (by market segment, by house, even by nose) are largely useless.
  79. Re: Is this the oldest Creed bottle you've ever seen ?

    Bwahahahah. Excellent observation.
  80. Re: Is this the oldest Creed bottle you've ever seen ?

    ><
    Ok, this is headed downhill. We've kept it pretty genial, something I appreciate, but accusations of intellectual dishonesty are unwarranted. The counterpoints are in this thread; regurgitating...
  81. Re: How many of you are on a Vintage hunt, or were at some point in the past ?

    !!!! Which Bandit? The EDT is my Great White Whale.

    On topic, yes, vintage hunting is my favorite part of the hobby. Finding great bargains on exotic antiques is infinitely more exhilarating (and...
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    Re: New Fragrance: By Killian Incense Oud

    It's light-moderate, weight wise, dark but not overbearing. Good materials with the rose/cardmon/myrrh meshing extremely well. Pleasant and behaved, I'm sure there's someone out there who will think...
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    Re: Le Labo Oud 27

    Lucky scent kindly surprised me with a sample of this, and I was excited to try it. Turin's review left me expecting a novelty, but this is fantastic stuff! Skanky, dirty, animalic, and also manages...
  84. Thread: Knize 10

    by Zizanioides
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    Re: Knize 10

    I've also just received a new bottle of Knize Ten and my experience is similar. The balance between the birch tar and the spices/floral section is now weighted towards the lighter notes, shifting...
  85. Re: Is this the oldest Creed bottle you've ever seen ?

    One last post and then I'll leave the topic alone for a while. I get what you are saying but arrive at the opposite conclusion. It's not merely the lack of results investigations turn up: Creed has...
  86. Re: Is this the oldest Creed bottle you've ever seen ?

    Good life says it so much better than I could. The problem for any skeptic is the burden of proof. If Creed wants to claim they also ran a perfume business for their tailoring clients, that's great....
  87. Re: Quorum blind buy bottle came in the mail today..........

    Those two and Halston Z-14 are such excellent values (and readily available at any Marshall's et. al.) that I'd recommend them to any guy interested starting to get interested in fragrance. I don't...
  88. Re: IFRA restrictions - Conspiracy of Perfumery Producers?

    My pleasure =D It's one of the few areas of fragrance knowledge I can contribute a little on (with the usual caveats that it could be complete nonsense and I'm horribly wrong, although that's...
  89. Re: IFRA restrictions - Conspiracy of Perfumery Producers?

    There's some confusion on the IFRA (not surprising, given the nature of it): all of the houses and brands (Caron, Guerlain, etc. excepting the niche brands) are subject to IFRA regulations by...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Creed Royal Oud

    That's part of the reason I'm so amused by the oud craze, it's got all of the qualities reviled by consumers brought up on citrus/fresh-calone/aquatic-squeaky-clean-laundry-musks. It's the...
  91. Re: Your Three Perfect Ten Out Of Ten Fragrances

    Perfume's closest relation in terms of artistic execution is poetry; very easy to do poorly, challenging to do well and impossible to do perfectly. 99% of good poems and perfume are still redundant...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Creed Royal Oud

    I was wondering when Creed would put out an oud offering. This is one fragrance trend I'm pleased to see, almost starting to make up for the Calone blight of the 90's.
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    Re: Mysore Sandalwood essential oil query

    That looks to be around the going price for "Mysore Sandalwood" oil, according to my trusty research assistant, Google. It's also around the same price as the common Australian variant. I don't think...
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    Re: New Fragrance: Bond No 9 New York Oud

    Sorry, it was late. I was just struck by how awful fragrance blurbs are (they can say anything, claim anything, and usually give no relevant information on the product) and contemplating the poor...
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    Re: Which scents contain real Ambergris?

    Enfleurage in Greenwich Village sells Ambergris at $50/gram if anyone is desperately needing to know the scent of real ambergris. I'm curious but not fifty bucks curious.
  96. Replies
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    Re: New Fragrance: Bond No 9 New York Oud

    Sidenote: I read that ad copy and think of the poor, tortured Creative Writing major who put themselves through school working nights as a server, dreaming of creating the Great American Novel,...
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    Re: Zino Lovers, Walk Away!!

    I propose we rename this thread "Zenophobia". And I like these threads where people civilly debate the merits of a frag.
  98. Replies
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    Re: Is A&F Fierce really "toxic?"

    In the words of Paracelsus, perhaps the West's first toxicologist, "The poison is in the dose." There is truth to claim that perfumes contain toxins. There's no proof that it actually harms you. The...
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    Re: Holy Pilgrimage to the Creed Boutique

    Forgive the thread necromancy. I'd promised someone a loooong time ago I'd post after visiting the Shrine of St. Olivier in New York and giving the company a fresh look, to either proclaim my...
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    Re: Wow, I like Guerlain Vetiver?

    I feel you on this one. There is something lurking in it that once noticed, like the arrow in FedEx, can't be unnoticed. It smells identical to a particular brand of disinfectant my mother uses at...
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