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  1. Re: Looking over the original Faberge Woodhue Formula today...

    I would have fun with this but I don't stand a chance with all the redactions. What about just redacting the impossible to find stuff like Guaiacwood Concrete, and Rhodinol absolute?
  2. Replies
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    Re: Rescuing Naturals

    Don't panic! The perfumery courses will touch upon a "targeted range of semi-naturals".

    These are: Benzaldehyde, Aldehyde C6 hexanal, Aldehyde C14, Caproate hexanoate, Ionone blend, Citral X...
  3. Re: Looking for a contact based in the US to ship to the UK

    If you really must have the rarest stuff from abroad - and who doesn't here - then you are going to have to pay extra for shipping. Most US and UK businesses won't post abroad anything containing...
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    Re: Distillation of Orange Peels

    I use the zest to make a pleasant enough hydrosol. Fresh orange juice is a bonus. I use a fast juicer and an OilExTech microwave 'distiller'. The zest needs to be spun off first by the juicer...
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    Re: Extending the apple note in Manzanate

    Thanks for those - and they are 'found in nature' and easily obtainable.
  6. Re: The Chemistry of Elderflowers & Elderberries: Aroma, Colour, & Toxicity

    Good article thanks.

    I would love to use elderflower in perfumery but don't know how to start. It seems best used as a muscat-like drink, or as medicine or a cosmetic. The only reference perfumes...
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    Re: Are You a Fragrance Snob?

    Luca Turin said in his last interview on his blog that "when people become crazy about perfumes they become tremendous snobs almost invariably and look down on Estee Lauder" (who make "artistically...
  8. Re: Has anyone else got the book Le Livre Du Parfumeur?

    FNAC will post the book to the US for 17 Euros (and 8 Euros to the UK) which seems a bargain to me. Alternatively you can use a parcel forwarder like french-office.com and also buy some nice french...
  9. Thread: China

    by nemenator
    Replies
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    Re: China

    I tried getting some small amounts of absolutes a few months ago on Alibaba and gave up. If you could get samples you had to arrange collection. This costs too much for the likes of DHL, so you have...
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    Re: Isobutyl Quinoline question

    I am still confused even after Chris Bartlett's and David Ruskin's excellent summaries. Mousse de Saxe is based round 6-isobutylquinoline (CAS Number 68141-26-4) according to Philip Kraft and...
  11. Re: any syntetic substitute of vanilla, sandalwood, musk, patchouli, vetvier, amber

    I am glad you got that nugget from the Man himself. Both are Nature-identical. But then he spoils it a little by suggesting adding some Vanilla Absolute SFE (supercritical Fluid Extract). I hope you...
  12. Re: any body was made Perfume from Fragrance Oil? is Essential oil long lasting than Fragrance Oil?

    What's the fundamental difference in using a cheap Fragrance Oil to using an expensive proprietary base, say from Arcadi Boix Camps? Not that I've tried either yet. But here is an inspiring story...
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    Re: How many oils to start making perfumes?

    Chris has the best 'perfume wheel' I've ever seen at his site- or rather a 'perfume globe' to help choose ingredients. How did you do that Chris? Shortcut here...
  14. Re: Support for Turin's Vibrational Hypothesis on new documentary series.

    Some more research backing The Theory is here http://phys.org/news/2016-02-evidence-vibration-theory.html including a bit about why The Haters hate so much and a nice dollop of gravitational waves....
  15. Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 12/2013

    Mystic Moments resell New Directions products www.newdirectionsuk.com - mostly sourced from www.newdirections.com.au - and their EOs, absolutes and botanicals are fine in my opinion.
  16. Re: Esterification Charts for reference - TERRRIFFIC!

    Good graphics, thanks- and thanks for all the others you have found. I quite like the Comic Sans font here- it makes all those nasty chemical names more natural :engel017:
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    Re: Synthetic Vetiver?

    44% vetiver oil is listed in a GC-MS of D & G Homme EDT (probably before the 2012 reformulation). Is this possible to believe? Philip Kraft (Scent & Chemistry book) writes that the largest use of...
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    Re: Need your opinion on this supplier?

    Avoid! He is selling Honeysuckle abs and Broom/Genet abs - both 5ml for £13 when the going rate is over 5 times as much. I can't seem to trace his suppliers though and I don't think you will get him...
  19. Re: Siberian musk deer farm (looking for cooperation)

    I for one would be pleased to buy, if and only if I can be sure there is no cruelty. I have bought animal extracts from well known european suppliers and I just had to hope for the best.

    And ......
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    Re: DIY perfume kit Christmas present

    UK Customs may well mug your kid for £15 if sent a kit worth over £15. If you personally send the kit marked as a gift the limit is £40.
    So, may I suggest you consider a £42 kit from olfactik UK...
  21. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Come on, give us another clue!
  22. Re: Who is familiar with the quality of products " CGHerbals.com " ?

    The shipping cost to the UK is exorbitant, but they do have some rare chemicals. They could be more Customs-friendly as well.
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    Re: Reseda accord suggestions

    Reseda C by Felix Cola-
    175 Phenylpropyl acetate
    175 Geraniol from palmarosa
    70 Phenylethyl acetate
    20 Styrallyl acetate
    65 Coumarin
    50 Dimethylhydroquinone
    75 Methyl ionone
    ...
  24. Re: Derivation of Aroma compounds from Crude oil

    So are any of these crude oil derivatives arguably natural? Terpineol would be. Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol is probably not unless biosynthesised.
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    Re: Jubilation XXV

    The formula is stark and depressing but I suppose I would be quite proud and a little ashamed to come up with orange, coriander, labdanum, tarragon, olibanum, blackberry; guaiac wood, cinnamon, bay...
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    And now TGSC says Prunella "can be natural". It's now available from Creating Perfume.
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    Re: Jasmine Flexile

    For paywalled scientific articles you can go direct to the researchers who also often resent this tax on knowledge. Or use a library terminal. Or hack Read Cube.

    JFrater, I admire your taking on...
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    Re: Arctander Perfume and Flavor Chemicals

    Arctander on synthetics is fascinating. He seems to add a little magic to encourage their use by Naturalists (even for dihydromyrcenol). As Allured now seems to have dropped Arctander entirely having...
  29. Re: Has anyone else got the book Le Livre Du Parfumeur?

    I also like the idea of an ingredients marketplace, but I expect that will be disapproved of here. Books, however should cause no problem if we can do something like an 'inter-library loan' which...
  30. Re: Has anyone else got the book Le Livre Du Parfumeur?

    Yes I am jealous of Mumsy as well. The cheapest I can find the book for is 114Euros from FNAC France in person.

    Anyone up for a book club?
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    Re: Physicists / chemists wanted

    Geco, could you do a simple "odor value map" that looks a little like the one in the picture here?
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/283811-Picture-of-the-famous-Givaudan-Odor-Value-Map
    A few...
  32. Thread: Flouve

    by nemenator
    Replies
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    3,717

    Re: Flouve

    Hevea is kindly offering us amateur perfumers a 10% discount. On checkout enter BSNTS plus the 2 digits associated with decanal.

    Postage is free for orders over 60 euros for french & spanish...
  33. Re: Reminiscent smells of cleanliness in naturals?

    Even citrus is a learned experience. Perhaps just a nice inoffensive smell means clean.

    The Maniq of Southern Thailand have a dozen smell words where we have arguably none. Their word for clean is...
  34. Re: The Creed Aventus Analysis Is Now Available

    Quite beautiful, thanks. 25% naturals or over 50% if you include nature-identicals.
  35. Re: Old lady smell - phenyl cresyl phenyl acetate - instant vintage

    Just to amuse David, I will personally consider some synthetics to be natural, such as some acetates like vetiveryl acetate. Acetylisation and hydrogenation are pretty natural processes IMHO. And I...
  36. Re: Old lady smell - phenyl cresyl phenyl acetate - instant vintage

    The problem is I would prefer my Naturals to be pressed by comely virgins...
  37. Re: Old lady smell - phenyl cresyl phenyl acetate - instant vintage

    PCPA seems such a useful aromachemical that it seems such a shame it's synthetic and that Arctander doesn't suggest a natural derivation. It can be made directly from the naturals p-cresol and...
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    I like the TGSC data except that it's inconsistent and some important fields seem randomly missing. I would like to see Occurence (eg not found in nature or one example in a natural), organoleptics,...
  39. Thread: Flouve

    by nemenator
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    Re: Flouve

    Just got my Flouve absolute from Hevea. It is green and viscous. It smells sweet, spicy and herbaceous, of hay after having been cut for some hours. The Flouve EO (from Hermitage) is comparatively...
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    Re: Expressing Orange Peels

    I juice oranges for breakfast and I keep the zest and pith in the fridge for distilling later. It's good enough for a hydrosol.
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    Re: What's "Rose W"?

    Rose W

    20 Phenyl acetaldehyde Dimethyl acetal (PADMA)
    5 Geranium
    50 PEA
    90 Cloves
    30 lonone alpha
    120 Geraniol
    200 Citronellol
    15 Tetra hydro geraniol
  42. Thread: Flouve

    by nemenator
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    3,717

    Re: Flouve

    Suspiciously cheap for me- 5ml for 22.80 euro.

    I am happy with the Flouve essential oil from Hermitage for now.

    Update-
    Having read about how they do enfleurage & tinctures, I am buying! Great...
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    It's coming along very well, thanks. I have some minor issues though.
    First- a minor bug in that the inventory file could not be created after clicking 'add to inventory'.
    Second, I would like...
  44. Replies
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    Re: Free Fragrance Composition Software

    What about import & export to Excel? That way I could add the naturals from SAFC or Robertet. And moreover we could then plot those Fragrance Wheels we (OK, I) have been obsessing over.
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    Re: tincture Benzoin

    I would love to know some french Eau d'ange recipes, especially older ones. It's not easy to find much about Benzoin tincturing in english.
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    Re: Tuberose Headspace GC-MS?

    The large amount of Methyl 2-aminobenzoate- did you find an equivalent or can it be ignored?
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    Re: UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??

    If you want one to four litres then Proxisante are slightly cheaper even with postage (make sure you ask for free delivery if your order is over 100 euros). And currently they have a 10% discount.
  48. Re: The Implausibility of the Vibrational Theory of Olfaction

    Turin calls the new study “very interesting,” but he does not think it makes a successful case against vibrational theory. In particular, Turin believes that the musk receptor studied by Block and...
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    Re: Hedione in the news

    The more natural form of hedione, methyl jasmonate also has the pheromone reaction according to the article. Methyl jasmonate is a well known plant defense pheromone.

    The full article can be...
  50. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    I distill some essential oils from local plants, and I also distil, ahem, sugar. The latter contains about 20% distilled water and it works fine for me, being better than some perfumers alcohol I...
  51. Replies
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    Re: List of 100 Natural Aroma Materials

    Perfume wheels are great, but also limit the material to just one classification so that Iris can't be both woody and floral. The Sigma-Aldrich 'wheel' can be useful though. SAFC put FEMA materials...
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    Re: Exclusive Materials Proposition

    I would certainly buy Arcadi Boix Camps' animalics.
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    Re: Sparkle in "Elixer" from Penhaligon's

    I wonder if anyone here would help to reconstruct Penhaligon's original Hammam Bouquet? There was a plea for this a few years ago here http://www.basenotes.net/threads/285258-Hammam-Bouquet-Extract
    ...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    I will say just one word- Dihydromyrcenol!
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    Re: A Message To Our Community

    Great site and well worth the admission charge to get GC/MSs funded. May I suggest however that Basenotes gets the occasional freebie we can all pore over? We all had lots of fun recently with the...
  56. Replies
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    Re: perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

    I came here from Soap and candlemaking, and it's a different culture. I am happy to be a nutter here as a Naturalist. So don't worry about it. Keep on trying- what doesn't kill you makes you stronger.
  57. Replies
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    Re: The smell of spring?

    Even if the price is astronomical I wouldn't buy any Hyacinth absolute unless I knew for sure about the provenance. The UK ones I know are synthetic and smell suspiciously like the first Hyacinth...
  58. Replies
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    Re: The smell of spring?

    Here are two "natural" Hyacinth accords-
    74 phenylethyl alcohol
    3 phenylacetaldehyde 50%
    9 indole 10%
    8 Hydroxycitronellal
    22 benzyl acetate

    Appel-
    180 Jasmin base
    100...
  59. Replies
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    Re: Any experience with ordering from CGherbals

    Delivery costs to the UK are $35 per 1Kg item, $4.35 per 50gm item, and $2.71 per 5gm item. Currently they have 88 aroma chemicals ex-stock and add 1 or 2 per month.
  60. Replies
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    Re: Disgusted by IFRA perfume regulations

    Fabulous.

    The original-
    http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d5/GHS-pictogram-silhouete.svg/220px-GHS-pictogram-silhouete.svg.png
  61. Replies
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    Re: Disgusted by IFRA perfume regulations

    Well, the hazard symbol for respiratory sensitising has a 6 pointed star on a human chest in a red square, so what about 6 pointed mouillettes in a mossy-green square?

    Or, as this is about freedom...
  62. Replies
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    Re: Disgusted by IFRA perfume regulations

    I am glad to see Joanne Bassett asserting Natural Perfumery's right to ignore the IFRA nonsense. I suspect the legal get-out-of-jail card could be that the product is simply one or more Essential...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Tobacco Accord

    Here is an accord by Philip Kraft of Scent and Chemistry book fame, from Facebook-
    10 Clary sage
    1 Chamomile oil
    1 Stemone
    3 Ambroxan
    4 Okoumal
    1 Elemi oil
    3 Flouve abs
    1 Ethyl...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Links to perfumery books

    Courtesy of Anya McCoy of the Natural Perfumery Guild there is a 40% off code Anya40 for Allured Books http://www.alluredbooks.com/Fragrance-Creation. EG Arctander CD-ROM normally $500!, Perfumery...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Sparkle in "Elixer" from Penhaligon's

    This is an excellent opportunity to discuss male sweat again. Elixir is another take on Penhaligon's original local Hamman which was the aroma of a clean english gentleman leaving the hammam baths....
  66. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Well found Zemlya. So the Portugal déterpené (10%) is 10 fold Orange. Will 5 fold plus a little limonene do? 10 fold seems tricky to come by- I can only find it at CG-herbal and De Monchy.
  67. Re: Support for Turin's Vibrational Hypothesis on new documentary series.

    That would be a shame. However I believe that Turin's hypothesis was put on hold by the 2012 paper "Vibrationally assisted electron transfer mechanism of olfaction: myth or reality?" by Solov’yov,...
  68. Re: Which Solvent for Scents for an electric Aroma Diffuser?

    Again not wanting to hijack this thread, can I suggest that natural hydrosols are great in aroma diffusers. But, not having had a good Natural vs Synthetic argument for ages here can I also say that...
  69. Re: Which Solvent for Scents for an electric Aroma Diffuser?

    Well I never, natural IPM! :2vrolijk_08: Whatever next?
  70. Re: Support for Turin's Vibrational Hypothesis on new documentary series.

    Quantum tunnelling in the nose was a hard concept to sell by Luca Turin a few years ago, and the above documentary explains it well. It also shows the same mechanism working in bird navigation,...
  71. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    I suppose I could supply CoAs, but the large supplier I would get them from actually knows they are false. They can plausibly deny they were false as they were from a person who has since left. I...
  72. Re: DIY Suppliers with MSDS, Certificate of analysis and Declaration of Allergens

    It's not going to happen here in the UK as very few Natural suppliers I know can be bothered even to do batch numbers let alone CoAs. That is the point of real naturals- they change like the weather...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Leather Base for Vintage Leather Chypre

    1000 total with correction

    I was just about to make this up but I noticed my Appell book says that a zero is missing from the Methyl Ionone.

    IMHO I don't like the look of Appell's Rose 50-
    15...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Other addictions

    White chocolate
    Sweet dessert wine
    Sticky buns
    Horse Riding
    Tango
  75. Replies
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    689

    Syringaldehyde anyone?

    Has anyone here tried Syringaldehyde? Chris? Apparently It has a green woody note "mild plastic woody tonka sweet" and I suspect Chris Bartlett sourced it for a whisky type perfume. Hermitage...
  76. Replies
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    Re: clearwood firmenich

    As a simple Naturalist I am wary of Clearwood although Firmenich makes the point of it being made from sustainable sugars, and "which can be used as the natural oil".

    Ironically in getting...
  77. Replies
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    3,630

    Re: Driftwood or Salty Accord

    Philip Kraft of Scent & Chemistry suggests these-
    A marine base such as Ultrazur.
    Oceans can also smell melon, so melonal.
    Greeness of algae: Algenone PB of Synarome.
    Extra salted ham: Spanish...
  78. Replies
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    2,143

    Re: orris root note

    Whoops- an error and a duplicated post somehow.
  79. Replies
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    Re: orris root note

    I like the 'Orris liquid' from Hermitage Oils. Adam there (missing you already) says it's all natural, but I suspect that it's Nature Identical as it's quite cheap, and from Charabot...
  80. Replies
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    Re: orris root note

    The patent goes on to say that the formula is dominated by the odor of ionones which give the base a synthetic quality yet the addition of Givaudan's unavailable ethyl α-campholenate unites the...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    Whoops, thanks- there is indeed 100 units of Terpineol making 1000 units in all.

    Has anybody tried Reseda Body by IFF? Susan at Creating Perfume may have a sample.
  82. Replies
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    I guess Cinnamyl acetate will substitute for Phenyl propyl acetate (aka hydrocinnamyl acetate). It's also a hyacinth modifier, "sweet floral spicy balsam cinnamon" and cheap from PA & Olfactik....
  83. Replies
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    Re: Mignonette (Reseda odorata) Reseda absolute

    This accord is all I could fine, but one of the chemicals seems unobtainable-
    Anonis/Gattefosse 1950

    250 alpha ionone
    50 Orris resinoid
    100 Methyl ionone
    100 Phenyl propyl acetate (can't...
  84. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Reseda formula from Anonis/Gattefossé 1950
    250 alpha ionone
    50 Orris resinoid
    100 Methyl ionone
    100 Phenyl propyl acetate
    200 Geraniol palmarosa
    75 Phenyl ethyl acetate
    25 Styralyl...
  85. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    So, it's jasmine-like, but would anyone agree with Philip Kraft recently saying it is used as a cheaper form of Hedione (see his Scent & Chemistry facebook page)? It would also appeal to the...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Alpha-Irone source?

    Proxisante are doing 'natural' alpha irone, and are nearly out of stock. Has anyone here had theirs yet, and could they comment? I will do so presently.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    V is vanillin as Jicky was the first to use it in 1889. However MK or Musc ketone was not around until 5 years later, so I suppose Musc xylene invented by Baur in the same year was used instead-...
  88. Replies
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    9,223

    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Philip Kraft of Scent & Chemistry fame writes that Jicky is 33% linalool, and 32% bergamot & 2% lemon oil. The above formula shows 28% Bergamot and 1.4% lemon, which is good enough. Thanks for the...
  89. Replies
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    Re: Karo Karounde

    But is it safe? The absolute is prohibited by the IFRA as it contains over 5% benzyl cyanide. I hope the new Hermitage 'liquid' November 2014 is safer but not at the expense of the molecules that...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Leather Base for Vintage Leather Chypre

    I get castoreum and civet from Proxisante. They will soon be offering free delivery for orders over 100 Euro to Europe at least.

    Speaking about leather, has anyone tried Firmenich's Leather MD? It...
  91. Re: Any acceptable substitutes for Fossilized Amber Oil?

    I have tried a few from Poland and Latvia and they cost around £15 for 20ml. They are more or less phenolic and compliment the usual amber formula of labdanum, benzoin, & vanilla, which is otherwise...
  92. Reed diffuser & candle biz on The Apprentice

    The latest BBC TV episode of The Apprentice (S10E03) shows what's involved in starting up a premium Home Fragrance business. Candles at £30+ and Reed Diffusers for £15. I thought the Reed Diffuser...
  93. Replies
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    1,700

    Oud SigNature by Firmenich

    Has anyone tried this? I found it at Proxisante and all I could find is that on goodscents it is an agarwood replacer. "This combination of natural and synthetics ingredients, utilizes process...
  94. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    I found the post about methyl chavicol or Sweet Basil useful, but sadly nothing else. Serotonin, dopamine and adrenaline perfumes are worth another thread sometime. The DopeyOne is getting a better...
  95. Replies
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    658

    Re: Lavender Pillow Spray

    I would go for lavender hydrosol- the by product of the oil distillation- which being mostly water can be used neat in a spray. Probably the best and one of the cheapest is made near Carshalton,...
  96. Replies
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    588

    Re: Where can I get Bourgeonal?

    Perfumers World $3.65 5gm, about 10 days delivery to the UK and no problems with Customs.
  97. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    It's good stuff! The marijuana forums cross over here a fair amount eg for extraction. I am sure many of us have toyed with Cannabis EO, or at least hops, cocao or coffee. Bring it on!
  98. Thread: Rose accord

    by nemenator
    Replies
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    2,819

    Re: Rose accord

    EU and US Naturals, and Isolates (if these are cheaper) please. I would also like to see the providence and production to see how 'natural' they are (I am still queasy about acetylisation).
  99. Replies
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    897

    Re: frankincense oil in the uk

    Norfolk Essential Oils frankincense is Somalian and distilled by them, and very good too. It is probably the same as Hermitage's at less than half the price....
  100. Replies
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    696

    Re: Natural isolated Aroma chemicals

    It's called adulteration or reconstitution, or non-therapeutic essential oils. For instance why is Ho oil so cheap? It's 90% linalool which is quite expensive as a Natural, so why not extract the...
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