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    The (D)Evolution of Perfume Blogging

    I've been reading some interesting discussions on perfume blogs about how the perfume blogosphere has evolved or devolved over the past 7 years or so. I'd love to know what people think about perfume...
  2. Thread: Enchanted Forest

    by Elf
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    Re: Enchanted Forest

    Even without the horrid scandal of Gulnara-Gate, I had pretty much given up on Duchaufour's perfumes. There are too many, and too similar. Also, he's been using a few notes in pretty much all the new...
  3. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
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    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    I'm with danny and iodine on this one. BD's persona, with which he lured many clients, was that of a savvy, educated and concerned citizen of the world and experience world traveler. His excuse on...
  4. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
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    6,276

    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    LA2000, that's an idea. I actually just threw out my Frapin 1697 and made a donation to Anti-Slavery International in London. It's not that I think everyone should throw out their old Duchaufour...
  5. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
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    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    danny1967,
    Please do not use profanity and imply that other people responding to this thread are hypocrites. You don't know our practices and choices. You can't make that determination. For example,...
  6. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
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    6,276

    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    Very well stated, Evangeline. The world is what we collectively make of it, and even our small choices mean something.
  7. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
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    6,276

    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    Hedonist 222, I don't know if you were being facetious or not when you asked us if we'd take any concrete actions, but it's a very good question. I don't have any BD or LaP perfumes on my wish list,...
  8. Thread: uh oh Duchaufour

    by Elf
    Replies
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    6,276

    Re: uh oh Duchaufour

    This is really appalling. L'Artisan Parfumeur should dress him down, because this reflects on their brand as well. I can't imagine that BD would do this if his own son had to labor as a slave in...
  9. Re: Coney island is my dreamland! Why nobody seems to like it?

    I think it's a ton of fun fragrance and I even wrote a positive mini-review of it on PST. It's like Willy Wonka's signature perfume!
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    Re: Your Thoughts On The Oud Craze

    Some of them, like Mona di Orio's and Kilian's Amber Oud, are lovely Westernized takes on the oud note. But the vast majority are just plain silly....
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    Re: Aedes de Venustas EDP

    I'm so glad someone else noticed the celery, I'm not hallucinating! I think this is an interesting green fragrance, the drydown, less so. The celery note sometimes bombards, sometimes disappears. It...
  12. I used to go to London frequently, but now that I...

    I used to go to London frequently, but now that I live across the Pond, I cannot attend. I'm so happy for Birgit, and I know she'll do amber proud (I'm also an amber fan). If you can go, please do so!
  13. Thread: 1697 stinks!

    by Elf
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    1,278

    Re: 1697 stinks!

    Some days, particularly on really cold winter days, I love it. Then I'll smell it at a different time and think, "Piee-ew!!" It's weird that way, I know a blogger who adores it and had a really bad...
  14. Thread: Synthetic Notes

    by Elf
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    Re: Synthetic Notes

    I LOVE Timberol/Norlimbanol. It's like the scent of a wood fire without the smoke. I used to hate Cashmeran, smelled like mildew, but it plays very nicely with some other players and then smells...
  15. Hyrax Poop Tincture and Other South African Treasures

    I received my order from African Aromatics (africanaromatics.com) about a month ago and have been tincturing my hyrax poop (African Stone), omumbiri and omumgorwa in perfumer's alcohol. They've all...
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    Re: Snowdrift Farms lousy service

    I never do any business with B of A, only use credit unions, and I lost $40 at the Snowdrift Farms closing sale. Awful! However, I did buy perfumer's alcohol from Save on Scents- excellent product...
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    New Duchafours for Lambre? What is Lambre?

    I read that Bertrand Duchaufour created 2 perfumes in 2012 for a door-to-door perfume/cosmetics company HQ'd in the former USSR, Lambre. One is called Son Secret, or something like that. There's a...
  18. Re: Any recent buying disappointments/regrets ~ unsniffed or otherwise?

    Brain death while traveling, been there, done that! I think it's the lack of oxygen on the airplanes....Still, J'Adore Absolu is very wearable!
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    Re: Oakmoss Substitutes and Synthetics

    There are no really accurate substitutes. In fact, I heard that oakmoss was banned because of studies that were actually performed with a different sort of moss! But they won't go back and review. I...
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    Re: LVMH starting to take over Hermès

    If BA wants something, he usually gets it. With whatever it takes. So sad.
  21. Teens who have seen it here like it, it reminds...

    Teens who have seen it here like it, it reminds them of Monty Python; one said, "Is this Terry Gilliam??". But is this the target audience, pre-teens and teens? I know the artist who did the...
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    Trying to Add a Comment

    Hello!
    I've logged in, added a comment to articles, clicked "Submit Comment", only to have it disappear into the ozone, forever! What's going on?
    Thanks,
    Elf
  23. Thread: Vetiver Varieties

    by Elf
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    Re: Vetiver Varieties

    Ayala, that is one awesome article. Thank you so much. I see I'm going to have to expand my vetiver eo collection...let us know, if you decide to use it in cooking or baking, how it turns out.
  24. Thread: Vetiver Varieties

    by Elf
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    Re: Vetiver Varieties

    Ah, Julia Lawless! I'll have to try this. And thanks for the info r/t burning of vetiver grass prior to harvest. That procedure explains a lot about some batches of vetiver!
  25. Thread: Vetiver Varieties

    by Elf
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    Re: Vetiver Varieties

    Sounds interesting. Where is it grown and where is it sold? Or is it a process that makes it "Bourbon"?
  26. Re: What's with these videos? “Adulteration of essential oils”

    Oh, these are absolutely brilliant! I wish every DIYer and aromatherapist could watch them. Thank you for posting them!
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    Re: Keiko Mecheri-Cuir Cordoba

    It is more like the Cuir Amethyste than Daim Blond, Daim Blond is more lush, more decadent, and harder to wear, too! I agree with you about Osmanthus, there's no Osmanthus in it, it's really a...
  28. Thread: Vetiver Varieties

    by Elf
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    Vetiver Varieties

    Hi, folks!
    Happy Holidays! I have a question about vetiver. I use Haitian vetiver from Eden Botanicals, and I like it very much. However, I know some people swear by Indian vetiver. Has anyone...
  29. Thread: Violent notes

    by Elf
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    Re: Violent notes

    Cinnamic aldehyde
    Guiacol
    Safraleine
    Birch Tar

    Wow, now that's a fearsome group!
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    Re: Keiko Mecheri-Cuir Cordoba

    I like this line as well, though Loukhoum was too sweet for me. Cuir Cordoba is very nice, much lighter on the leather than, say, even Kelley Caleche, more like a delightful violet.
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    Re: Le Cherche Midi Fragrance Cubes - Review

    I'm glad to see the owner is on the board, because I'd like to add that the CT01 scent is really lovely, and I wish it hadn't been discontinued. Any chance of it coming back??
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    Re: Roja Dove Unspoken- The Ultimate Chypre

    I always love a chypre, and have many in my collection, I even make them myself. Unspoken is in my top 3, I tried it in parfum and EdP, and actually preferred the EdP, it was a little more spacious...
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    Re: Traditional Attars, which one should I choose?

    Also, champaca is champaca flower, a member of the magnolia family, but completely distinct in scent, comes in white and yellow forms. And zafri is saffron. Hope this helps!
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    Re: Traditional Attars, which one should I choose?

    Mitti is baked earth, it's wonderful. Motia is jasmine. Gulab is rose. Gendi is marigold. Shamamas are complex mixtures of spices and herbs with sandalwood. Majmua is a mixed floral. Kewra is a very...
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    Re: Samsara. What's up wid that?

    I have 5ml of parfum from the 90s (the best, very soft), an EdP from 2001, un Air de Samsara, and Samsara Shine. The strongest by far is the EdP, I agree that the Air de Samsara is a little too...
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    Re: Has Angel Been Reformulated?

    I think it has. I have a mini from the 90s, EdP, and compared it to a bottle I bought in London this year, and they were quite different. The mini had been kept well, so heat/age wasn't a problem....
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    Re: Biagiotti's Venezia by Shorell - Tried it?

    I have the Venezia and Anarchy and I love them both. I compared the Venezia to my treasured mini of the original, they are virtually identical. I never got to try the original Chaos, and I know the...
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    Re: Reformulated Fragrance List

    Feminite du Bois- thinner, less cedar, perhaps to reduce the thujones??
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    Re: Chaos by Donna Karan - old versus new?

    I only tried a dab of vintage Chaos, but I have a large bottle of Irma Shorell's dupe, Anarchy, and they seem very close to me. I love Anarchy and wear it constantly in the fall, it's got lots of...
  40. Thread: DIY Birch Tar

    by Elf
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    1,594

    Re: DIY Birch Tar

    Zizanoides, you rock! That is an incredible project, and since we have birch here, I think I may try it with some of my (older) students. Wow!
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    Re: Hanae Mori Magical Moon - EDT vs EDP?

    I love Butterfly, but after half a bottle, it got too sweet for me and I sold it. But Magical Moon, I've gone through 2 bottles already. It is never too sweet for me because of the basenote of kyara,...
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    Re: Bloggers must now disclose freebies...

    I've been blogging for nearly two years (as a guest writer) and have never received any free bottles of anything! (sigh...) When I've contacted a niche house or perfumer because I've wanted to...
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    Re: New Sheldrake Perfume

    Maya, the chocolate floral, is my favorite. It's similar to RL's Notorious, but with more oomph, and some incense.
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    New Sheldrake Perfume

    I noticed there was a new perfume from Scents of Time (they do historical/archeologically based perfumes), by Christopher Sheldrake, called Night Star. I believe it's based on perfume ingredients...
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    Re: Creed - Acqua Florentina

    Totally generic fruity-floral. Better quality ingredients than many fruity-florals, but completely synthetic-smelling. Nothing like real plums. Decent lasting power. Typical laundry-white-musk...
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    Re: buying from amazon.com

    I bought a gift set of Eau de Star direct from Amazon- it ended up cooking in a South Florida delivery truck for 2 days at over 110 degrees, by the time I got it, it had developed a major off note....
  47. Re: Altitude Adjustment - No sillage at High Altitudes!

    Definitely the humidity. I live in the Alps and S. Florida, and scents are so different in these locales. During dry periods in the Alps, no sillage, I can even wear "big 80s" frags and keep them to...
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    Re: YvesSaintLaurent Nu

    Oh, how I love Nu! I have a lot of it, and everytime I wear it, I get more compliments than I can stand, or just see people sniffing the air, saying, "What smells so good? What is that smell??"
    I...
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    Re: Agarwood in Rykiel Woman not for men EdP?

    There's no real agarwood in there, IMO, but I detect one of the synths. Givaudan has a lovely accord called Black Agar, and Firmenich has one, too, called Oud. This perfume has a small amount of one...
  50. Re: Sarah Jessica Parker "Lovely" and longevity/sillage

    Lovely is the only celebrity scent I own. It's gorgeous, great for traveling, and has perfect sillage and longevity. In other words, when traveling, I spritz it on in the morning, it's a skin scent...
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    Re: Any suggestions for chypres?

    Yes, I made a classic chypre base (natural) with bergamot, oakmoss, and labdanum, then went from there. My favorite, that I finally made a full bottle of, is a rose-dominated chypre, with mitti for a...
  52. Re: All Invited! ♥ ♥ ♥ Sniff 'n' Speak Saturday, August 1, 2009 ★★★ Fresh Frags

    I've chosen Crazy Libellule and the Poppies Presque Nu today. It was sent to me as a gift, but it's become my favorite scent for the gym and anything athletic. It's a light floral with a strong white...
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    Re: Crazy Libellule Garconnes- Impressions?

    I use Presque Nu (a lovely musk) at the gym, it's perfect, low sillage but very nice. I like the Vanille Macarons also, and Encens Mystic of course. I hope you find the new ones!
  54. Replies
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    Crazy Libellule Garconnes- Impressions?

    Has anyone tried these yet? I saw NST reviewed a couple of them (aka Crazysticks), but I didn't see them at Sephora or Anthropologie, and I'm curious if anyone has been able to sniff them. I was...
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    Re: What are your favourite musks?

    Auranone! I'm one of those anosmic people, and Auranone seems to work for everyone, and it's very pretty. I wrote in my Basenotes blog about it (Elf's Compendium of Notes), if you want more info on...
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    Re: Snowdrift Farms sale!

    I think so, except maybe for large quantities? Here's the website:
    http://www.snowdriftfarm.com/
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    Snowdrift Farms sale!

    I like the DIY supplies of Snowdrift Farms, but their shipping costs seem very high and they usually prevent me from buying things from them, except for maybe once a year, tops.
    But I got an email...
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    Re: I tried new Amour flanker (clear bottle)

    I agree. I bought my gold bottle in October, and it was already gone by February! That's a record for me. It has alot of benzoin, which I love. It was a perfect winter fragrance.
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    Re: Eau de Gentiane Blanche by Hermes - my review

    Good review! You know, ambrette smells like pickles to me, too?? And I'm very anosmic to many macrocyclic musks. I think people have different genetic profiles when it comes to the perception of...
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    Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    I've added massoia bark (lactones) and seville lavender. Seville lavender seems kind of new. Has anyone actually used it in a perfume? I'd like to know if it works as a fig note.
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    I tried new Amour flanker (clear bottle)

    Well, that bottle's totally gorgeous, in print and live. But the juice! ACK! Yet another synthetic citrus/floral Light Blue wannabe, #1,456,999 in a series. I was really disappointed. Fortunately,...
  62. Re: My olfactive review of Givaudan's latest molecule: Cosmone

    I second that, great blog, Scentophile! As an amateur, hobby perfumist living in a tiny town with lots of cows, sheep, and goats (about 10 of each per every human) it's wonderful to hear about the...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Dilution is really necessary with some components, otherwise, they're overwhelming, or alternately, imperceptible. Unfortunately, real perfumer's alcohol is harder to get here in the obscure villages...
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    Re: Why the Ad in My Post??

    Thanks, Grant!
  65. Re: My olfactive review of Givaudan's latest molecule: Cosmone

    What is this musk like compared to Auranone and Teak? And for those who are anosmic to musks such as Habanolide and Ambrettolide, does Cosmone hold out any hope (is it a mix of different families of...
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    Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Mine is a steam distilled EO from Liberty Natural. Sadly, I don't get any rum tones from mine. The method of distillation does matter, I'll remember to mention it. Frankincense and lavenders come to...
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    Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Yes, my perfumes are mostly natural (about 80%, usually), but I have some fave aromachemicals also. I'll have to try homofuranol. I particularly love auranone, a mixed musk that I can actually smell...
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    Why the Ad in My Post??

    Hello, Moderators!
    Why is there an ad for Microsoft Silverlight in my post? I didn't put it there.... can it be removed??
    Thanks
    http://community.basenotes.net/showthread.php?t=228704
  69. Replies
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    Re: Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Thanks! I love learning more about fragrant plants. I was surprised davana was so NOT floral, it's got no sweetness whatsoever, but really does smell like tamarind, and blends well with citrus, or...
  70. Replies
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    Elfnotes DIY blog- come and share!!

    Hello, fellow DIYers!
    I've been thinking of a theme to follow for my Basenotes blog, and since I've been DIYing for a few years now, I thought I'd follow the lead of White Lotus Aromatics and devote...
  71. New Aqua Allegorias- Same Fume, Different Color?

    I got to try the 2009 Aqua Allegorias by Guerlain today, and got a little decant of Tiare Mimosa. The Tiare Mimosa is clear, the Cherry Blossom is very pink. 3 ladies and I tested them, and we simply...
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    Re: Cyclomethicone question

    For perfumer's alcohol, just make sure it's at least 90% pure alcohol (or the perfume will cloud, and some materials won't dissolve), and that there's no odor. Other than that, no big whoop.
    I've...
  73. Re: If you have tried NR Essence (2009), what do you think of it?

    I found it quite harsh and synthetic. I am anosmic to the regular NR for women, though I hear it is quite delightful. I smelled Essence real good!
    Migraine good!
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    Re: Does anyone like S. Lutens Nuit de Cellophane?

    This sort of sweet floral is nowhere to be found in my collection, except for HM's Magical Moon, because that one has a lot of incense. As far as osmanthus goes, I like mine with the greener facets...
  75. Re: Who agrees we have some industry "sleepers" in our midst.

    I find that I've been thinking in the same way as Brielle87 for some time now about the perfume industry, and I agree with her assertions in this thread. I am an amateur perfumer, and a collector,...
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    Re: Death of Perfumery?

    What IFRA has done saddens me deeply. I make my own perfumes, using both natural and synthetics. Of course there are synthetic substitutes for many expensive ingredients now, and it's actually...
  77. Re: Musk 'Types' - definitions / defining notes or character. Help please.

    The colorful, romantic names of musks have nothing to do with anything but marketing executive's ideas of what will sell. Habanolide, Exaltolide, Velvione, nitro-musks, and so on, are the chemicals...
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    Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Hurray, Chaya and Grant! I wholeheartedly agree. The dearth of perfume as art (and the often prohibitively expensive niche perfumes that maintain the art) led me to DIY. I've spent several years and...
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    Re: Novice - Olibanum question

    Well, you can always buy some frankincense absolute and eo, and put that into perfumer's alcohol! I mean, frankincense is one of those things that smells good all on its own, like hay absolute or...
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    Re: SotD Monday 16 March

    Happy Birthday Wordbird!
    And hello to a fellow Magical Moon lover out there. One of my top 3!
    Today I'm wearing my own experiment, Absinthe Oudh. It's something strange that would pass neither...
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    Green Tea and Basmati Rice Notes??

    I use a number of aromachemicals and many naturals. But I have not found which aromachemical gives a "green tea" note, or how to blend a green tea accord, and ditto for a "basmati rice" or "rice...
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    Re: What to pair with Linden Flower?

    These are all excellent! I like to pair linden abs with verveine, also with hay absolute, or myrtle. I find a little linden goes a long way!
  83. Thread: Fleur de Liane?

    by Elf
    Replies
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    Re: Fleur de Liane?

    Guerlain's Herba Fresca is very green with a touch of fresh mint. I second the Miller et Bertaux, it's wonderful. And if she wants just a spritzer for spring, L'Occitane's Verbena/Verveine scents are...
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    Re: The Death of Jean Patou 1000

    Brielle, you said it perfectly. I'm crying with you!
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    I Tried the Armani Ondes

    I was looking forward to trying these, and they got some good press on the Perfume Posse (well, sort of lukewarm press). But what a disappointment! The Extase, which was supposed to have sesame eo,...
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    Re: What is it about galbanum....

    Bel Respiro is loaded with galbanum, that's why I bought it! I also have the eo and use it in two of my own scents. It's green, but never sweet. It's really rather dark and bitter, and gives...
  87. Thread: Vanuato Sandalwood

    by Elf
    Replies
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    Re: Vanuato Sandalwood

    I agree. Also Ebanol is a nice sandalwood substitute. For a natural substitute, some of the amyris and some of the muhuhu I've smelled are nice, but they aren't the same as sandalwood. There are a...
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    Re: Who makes the best EO?

    This is great info. I am intrigued....
  89. Re: London BN perfume tour next year... UPDATE: This will now be the official BN annu

    I think I could make it, we go to London once or twice a year anyways....It's our favorite city! Also, here's an idea. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is doing an interview on Perfume Posse. She mentioned, as a...
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    Re: How to make hard resin into oil?

    Thanks, NS. I just made a usable copal (black and gold) by grinding the resins to powder, adding perfumer's alcohol, letting it steep overnight, and (very slowly) filtering it through a coffee...
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    Re: Aromachemicals from Apprentice

    Alas, about 40% of the population is anosmic to the synthetic musks, at least a portion of them. I am one of those unhappy 40%. Everyone in my family except me can smell that ambrettolide- they say...
  92. Thread: Glucam P-20

    by Elf
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    Re: Glucam P-20

    Benzoin is a wonderfully lasting base note, however, it has a very strong, distinctive, warm smell, and like labdanum, can take over a fragrance or clash with it. Glucam-20 has no odor, so it doesn't...
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    Re: Who makes the best EO?

    Liberty Natural Products grows their own lavender in Oregon and it's yummy. They also carry 3-4 other varieties, in both eo and absolute. I actually like lavender absolute very much.
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    OK, Perfumers, Watch What They Say!

    Yesterday, my young son answered the phone, and, as I was making perfumes at the time, said,
    "No, she can't come to the phone right now. She's downstairs in her lab, sniffing stuff."

    Now I...
  95. Replies
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    Re: Angel Reformulated in Europe???

    I've been able to try a number of Angel versions lately (90s, 2008, US, and European). They do smell different, and have different longevity, but they are all good, so I'm not complaining. I read in...
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    2,900

    Re: Iso E super = yay or nay?

    I really like TdH in small amounts, more than a spritz and I get my Iso E Super reaction, which is a headache and noseburn. This is really interesting, isn't it? I think there must be genetic...
  97. Thread: Glucam P-20

    by Elf
    Replies
    21
    Views
    4,812

    Re: Glucam P-20

    I have it and use a few drops per 15ml bottle of perfume. I find it does help the top notes last longer. But it certainly won't make galbanum or orange last an hour. It about doubles the time for...
  98. Replies
    7
    Views
    1,275

    Re: Help with making my perfect orange scent

    I'd love it if you'd share your formula, CeCe! I love 'em!
  99. Replies
    39
    Views
    2,900

    Re: Iso E super = yay or nay?

    NAY! It ruins the otherwise spectacular Ormonde Jayne scents for me. It just overwhelms the perfume, I think. Used with a very light hand, it can amplify and lighten a scent. But it seems so totally...
  100. Replies
    8
    Views
    2,703

    Re: Commiphora Opobalsamum

    Opoponax is sweeter and less medicinal than myrrh, I use it more often because of this. Perfumer's Apprentice is a terrific business, and Liberty Naturals and Eden Botanicals, and White Lotus...
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