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  1. Replies
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    Re: Nice read about 'chemicals' vs 'naturals'

    Hi jfrater,

    I'm not an expert on this, but i think contamination of impure substances play a key role in this phenomena. Often Linalool will not be 100% of the same molecule. The article states,...
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    Nice read about 'chemicals' vs 'naturals'

    5 simple chemistry facts that everyone should understand before talking about science

    ...
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    Re: Average number of notes in a blend?

    On average, each Dutchman owns a pig... I don't know any Dutch who actually owns pigs hahaha
    I know compositions of over 100 ingredients, and some beauties of only 5 in the right proportions.
    True...
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Thank you David, i did not know this is a fact for any given Lavender vs Lavandin oil.
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Hi Paul,

    I've used Lavandin Abrialis in this formula. I will add it to the formulation page, it's indeed a good addition. I was not specific enough.
    I completely forgot about the...
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Sorry for the typo's, English is not my native tongue ;-)
    Paul is correct, it's ethyl vanillin! And windswept, thank you for the agrumen typo too.
    i did not try Lavender instead of Lavandin...
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    Re: Anosmia and flat spots.

    See Chris's and my advice in this thread: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/365845-Anosmic-to-benzoin ;)
  8. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    I think David has given some excellent substitutes, however i did not work with Rosone, i could not tell. The Cyclamen Aldehyde + Helional is spot on IMHO. The prismantol is far more Cardamom than...
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    Re: Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Yeah, it is a nice one, make sure to use good quality Vetiver oil. It's key to success in this formula; all other ingredients are blenders and extenders.
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    Re: Ouds from Arcadi Boix

    Hi Javiero,

    That sounds interesting! :)
    Quite different from the samples i've tested.
    I'll send you a PM.
    Best!

    Jeroen.
  11. Replies
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    Re: Ouds from Arcadi Boix

    Hi Javiero,

    Just curious: Auram (Arcadi Boix Company) has many Oudh formulations. Which ones exactly are you referring to?

    I've tested samples of Auram Jewel 40828-4D, 40828-7D and 40828-8D....
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    Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach formulas added

    Vetiver XL and Creamy Peach

    Two new unisex formulations are added today, and they make a wonderful marriage. In fact, they can be layered, depending on your mood, season or time of the day....
  13. Re: Veratraldehyde? Where can I get a small(ish) amount?

    http://www.hekserij.nl/Veratraldehyde.aspx
  14. Re: A Frangipani based masculine 'worn leather' and 'dry tea' perfume

    Just for the record: i don't say alcohol and jojoba mix. I say alcohol + a small amount of jojoba + the ingredients mentioned in the formula all mix together to a homogene solution that does not...
  15. Re: A Frangipani based masculine 'worn leather' and 'dry tea' perfume

    Ah, yes, that one ;-) @ariodant
    That's indeed a bit tricky. In this small amounts they do mix (at least the stuff i'm using at room temp). For the use of an accord you can and should leave the...
  16. A Frangipani based masculine 'worn leather' and 'dry tea' perfume

    A Frangipani based masculine 'worn leather' and 'dry tea' perfume

    This perfume is based around a beautiful Frangipani essential oil, which was a gift to me from a good friend who travelled to...
  17. Re: Best jasmine and lily of the valley synthetics

    Hi jfrater,

    don't know if it beats anything, but here's my Lily-of-the-valley accord version that does the trick for me in my perfume formulations:...
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    Re: Dilution recommendation

    i second Jeremiah Taylor. The really powerful aromachems at 1% (with exceptions of Geosmin likes; they are even overpowered at 1%, i use them at 0,01%), the stronger ones at 10% and when normally...
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    Re: Need a recipe for alcohol perfume???

    Dear knaqsim

    Take a look at my blog, you will find tens of formula's, for example this one that uses Glucam P20 for longevity on the otherwise volatile citrus top notes:...
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    Re: Hedione in the news

    Nice one Ed, thank you for sharing! :) :)
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    Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Dear Jayesh, in this case your correction has little or no impact IMHO.
    Since the total amount of raw material used don't differ in a 8 x 25% or 2 x 100% solution, it's only the alcohol that's of a...
  22. Re: Ideal Concentration (%) Of Alcohol For Adding Essential Oils To Create Perfumes ?

    The higher % the better; normally i wouldn't start with any mixture that contains below 95% alcohol.
    (I've quite good results for my day to day experiments with relatively cheap 'cosmetic hairwater'...
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    Re: Formula for a gourmand unisex perfume

    Thank you BAGreat, nice link and breakdown of the Boccanera original. However, keep in mind, i just referred to Boccanera as an indication of "this kind of scent" and never intended to duplicate it....
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    Formula for a gourmand unisex perfume

    I've added a new formula to my blog today.
    Use or abuse ;-)

    A gourmand scent like niche perfume Boccanera.
    This perfume formulation uses the same notes as Boccanera by Orto Parisi. The later...
  25. Re: I have aromachemicals and no idea how to use them. Help me make some stuff!

    Fragrancemaker, you can cheat your way into perfume making ;-)
    Take a look at my blog: perfume.sparla.com
    Here are a bunch of perfume formulations available that use a lot of aroma chemicals...
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    A sweet and spicy perfume formula

    I've just posted a new perfume formulation on my blog.
    Feel free to explore ;-)
    Happy perfuming!
    ...
  27. Re: 2,6 nonadienal ( cucumber aldehyde ) in Arranging Fine Perfume Compositions - Brechbill

    I see his use is .1 on a total of 1000, that is 1/100%, or .01% indeed and based on a 100% solution (as he states no other value).
    If you where to substitute this with a more common 1% solution, it...
  28. Re: Can one add aroma chemicals to a shea butter/argan oil mixture to scent it?

    Hi Sunny, i'd now and then like to create my own blends of melting soap, oils and shea-butter for rich bath-butters, soaps and body butters.
    When adding aroma chemicals it is no other than adding...
  29. Thread: Berryflor

    by jsparla
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    Re: Berryflor

    For me it's one of these materials that have a low odor by itself, but huge impact as a modifier. Have to use it in trace amounts, otherwise it can easily draw your composition into the domain of...
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    Re: Websites with perfume recipes/formulas?

    Dear Gulhilal,
    thank you, but keep in mind these are not creed copies. Please read the main page of my blog. It's just formulas that have certain characteristics.
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    Apart from the answers from Bill, Paul and Mumsy, which i second, be aware that GC/MS analyses will not give you direct insight in the essential oils, raisins, CO2 extracts or absolutes used. You...
  32. Re: Does Cosmetisch Haarwater Have Any Odor & Can I Import It To the UK?

    I use it a lot, as sold by Hekserij, but as Chris mentioned, i don't think they will export to the UK. :(
    It serves me well for my experiments, because it's rather cheap compared to pure perfumers...
  33. Re: Anyone ever used Tobacco Absolute from Perfumer's Apprentice? I have a question.

    Hi Indy_Guy,

    i bought the Tobacco Absolute from Linda about three years ago and i'm 100% sure she advertised it as nicotine free.

    Jeroen.
  34. Re: New formula added: Minty freshness with extreme longevity based on Eros Versace

    Dear Aromahead,
    Thank you for the compliment *blush*

    Well, a oriental floral can be constructed in many different ways with many different ingredients.

    For me, an oriental floral embodies at...
  35. Re: New formula added: Minty freshness with extreme longevity based on Eros Versace

    Haha, Paul ;) Yes, more like a day from morning to evening, i won't claim the full 24 hours.
    Although the combination of woods, coumarin, moss and some of the aroma chemicals used provoke some...
  36. New formula added: Minty freshness with extreme longevity based on Eros Versace

    Minty freshness with longevity based on Eros Versace

    I liked the description of Versace's Eros perfume a lot, perfect for summer: Mint, Green apple, Lemon, Tonka bean, Geranium, Ambroxan,...
  37. Thread: Eo/po/ac?

    by jsparla
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    Re: Eo/po/ac?

    Thanx David! :)

    @badnaam: Yep, i use PO as abbreviation for Perfume Oils (or Fragrance Oils). It's explained at the homepage ;-)
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    Yep it is, but i like to add some C14 (peach) too.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    I can't give away my complete accord, but this is a nice start.
    My Strawberry accord consists of mainly:

    Amyl acetate 4
    Benzyl acetate 8
    Ethyl acetate 5
    Ethyl butyrate 3
    Ethyl Cinnamate 5...
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    Re: Reformulation later?

    Hi Chrestomanthic,

    I'm not going to advise whether or not you should start with fragrance oils (bases/blends).
    But let's take your business from 2 to 4 years from now.

    I have a client at this...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Great article Chris! :) Like it!
    I might be the source of the introduced ambergris #LOL.
    Put this accord on my blog some years ago:...
  42. Re: Three new perfume formulations added: Apple Fresh, Jasmine Musk and Narcotic Love Potion

    Dear Aromahead,

    My friend and fellow perfumer Chris Bartlett has an excellent blog post on this matter. I couldn't explain it any better ;-)
    Please refer to...
  43. Three new perfume formulations added: Apple Fresh, Jasmine Musk and Narcotic Love Potion

    Three new perfume formulations are available:

    https://sites.google.com/site/perfumerecipes/aroma-accord-formulations/he-apple-fresh-summer...
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    Re: Notes that have a sparkling/tingling effect

    See "final touch" on this page for some thoughts:
    https://sites.google.com/site/perfumerecipes/great-tips-and-tricks-on-perfume-making
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    Re: Narcotic florals

    A trace of Fleuramone and Melafleur could do the trick. (Have them from CreatingPerfume.com).
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    Re: How many molecules?

    TheGoodScentsCompany.com has an excellent searchable database which is quite complete. Never came across an EO or AC i couldn't find there. Lots of synonyms too. It will give you an fair estimate, i...
  47. Thread: Using Ultrazur

    by jsparla
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    Re: Using Ultrazur

    #LOL @ David.
    Try Ultrazur in trace amounts. Dilute to 1% or less and add a drop at a time. Evaluate and take notes.
  48. Re: How to stop fooling around with a formula and leave it alone?

    To be honest: i never decide it's ready. I did some great reformulations on my perfume formula's over the years. Keep it as it is for months or even years, and deciding to substitute oils or aroma...
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    Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    #lol :-))
  50. Thread: Glucam P-20

    by jsparla
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    Re: Glucam P-20

    Like Iggy, i bought mine at Perfumersapprentice too.
  51. Re: What do I use to add an ocean scent note to perfume?

    I had some great results with an algae absolute, found here (Dutch site...):
    https://www.een-groenewereld.nl/detail/492263/Algen-Absolue-1-ml.htm
  52. Thread: Glucam P-20

    by jsparla
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    Re: Glucam P-20

    Please refer to this study for evaporation rates affected by Glucam P-20: 28463

    And one of my demo formula's to experiment with Glucam:...
  53. Re: Perfume Formulas (found in Patent Applications)

    Yep, they are widely available. Conduct a search on an aroma chemical at TheGoodScentsCompany and it will give you quite a few demo formulae when available. For instance take a look at Ambroxan:...
  54. Re: New formula added: a tamed Fahrenheit (Dior) merged into Shiseido's Basala

    Hi Nizan,
    I wouldn't call it bigger projects. Often my experiments are conducted with about 100 drops, including some 15 to 25 ingredients; that is aroma chemicals, absolutes, tinctures, essential...
  55. Re: New formula added: a tamed Fahrenheit (Dior) merged into Shiseido's Basala

    Thanx Paul, indeed. It's not unusual for perfume formulations to have 100 ingredients or more.
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    Re: Websites with perfume recipes/formulas?

    Happy perfuming Aromahead, let me know your results!
    enjoy!
  57. Re: New formula added: a tamed Fahrenheit (Dior) merged into Shiseido's Basala

    Hi Gulhilal,

    Sorry to hear so. I've numerous visitors from Turkey, so there doesn't seem a general problem. The site does not give any trouble.
    Maybe you could try using a different (free)...
  58. New formula added: a tamed Fahrenheit (Dior) merged into Shiseido's Basala

    I've received two beautiful new aroma chemicals from Hexapus.nl, which i liked to give a try: Acetofenon and Mahagonate.The hawthorn aspects from Acetofenon and the green, peppery, wood aspects from...
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    Re: Ambroxan question

    First of all, you could experiment with low quantities, don't dilute the whole amount, and see for yourself if it makes a difference. ;-)

    Now, this is an interesting question. Pure physics could...
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    Re: Two new summer fresh perfume formulations

    Spot on Paul, thanx! :)
  61. Replies
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    Two new summer fresh perfume formulations

    I've added two new perfume formulations to my blog, both all about freshness and summer.

    GW: Summer in Paris, fruity trails of freshness
    A fruity male? Yes, a fruity male. This perfume introduces...
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    Re: Cepes (mushroom)

    I can add Costausol to the aroma chemical list to experiment with.

    Besides that, TheGoodScentsCompany.com is your friend :smiley:

    See:




    (E)-benzyl tiglate
  63. Re: Remedy for olffactoral fatigue...for real or old wive's tale?

    I use the grind coffee trick all the time; works for me.
    learned it years ago for blind wine tasting.
  64. Re: How would a professional perfumer begin the process of creating a new formula?

    I suppose much like creating the Bugatti Veyron 16.4 vs creating the Nissan Versa 1.6S :laugh::laugh:
    No, you're right DR, pure luxury to be able to work this way. :thumbup:

    26913
  65. Re: How would a professional perfumer begin the process of creating a new formula?

    Agree with PK and DR, however, like to mention one more thing.
    For me it's all about the creative process and i don't want that be obstructed by trying to target a fixed amount of 100...
  66. Re: Is there anything I can do to get my perfumes last longer?

    That's the story in a nutshell Paul ;-) hahaha.
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    Nice read: 1 trillion(!) scents

    Science and Scents, always nice ;-)
    See what Leslie Vosshall (PhD) has to say:
    http://www.livescience.com/44240-human-nose-distinguishes-1-trillion-scents.html
  68. Re: Is there anything I can do to get my perfumes last longer?

    The sad truth is: There is no magic trick to longer lasting perfume formulations.

    Most perfumers discover "optimal" blends that have a good balance between longevity and silage, only after a lot...
  69. Thread: Mango

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    Re: Mango

    Hi perfectscent,

    I wanted to experiment with mango too, and did not find suitable, reachable aroma chems, apart from some esters; but only in huge quantities. So i eventually turned to a fragrance...
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    Re: Two new formulations added

    Hi Javiero,

    i'm a bit biased i think, because i create formulations for CreatingPerfume. However, i can agree with Nizan pretty much.
    Their Aroma Accord series are quite good to use for...
  71. Re: Decided to start working on a scent with coconut notes for men, suggestions?^^

    Hi Perfectscent,

    i did a coconut formulation once, but it concentrates more on the top notes and freshness. However C18 and Methyl Laitone can demonstrate a good practice in this formula....
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    How did you become a perfumer?

    Once in a week, i receive private messages and e-mails, from people all over the world, asking how to become a trained perfumer. As an illustration, below a recent one (i deleted the name) and my...
  73. Re: Request: Could someone post information on using aroma chemicals in blends?

    Essential Oils can consist of hundreds of aroma chemicals. So picking just one out emphasizes a certain aspect. There are also aroma chemicals not found in nature. Some are weak, some so strong you...
  74. Replies
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    Two new formulations added

    I've just added two new free formulations on my blog to share:

    GT: Extended citrus freshness summer scent

    This perfume, mainly based on Aroma Accords from CreatingPerfume.com is for true citrus...
  75. Re: Synthetics, Fixatives, and other crazy ingredients for a HOBBYIST?

    Hi JungleNYC,

    the most excellent overview of synthetic Musk is written by Chris Bartlett on his blog. A must-read!

    Low quantities can be ordered by Chris himself i believe,...
  76. Thread: Good heliotope

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    1,737

    Re: Good heliotope

    I've used this one, and i'm particularly impressed by it's longevity; still smell it after 3 weeks on a blotter.
    http://www.creatingperfume.com/heliotropin.aspx
  77. Re: I need help with synthetics for some concepts smells!

    Hi Nizan,

    I don't know the origin of the Basil oil, i bought it some years ago from www.hekserij.nl, i can't compare but i think it's of a rather good quality. The vetiver is from John Steel,...
  78. Re: I need help with synthetics for some concepts smells!

    Hi Nizan,

    yep, that's exactly what i thought. However, the Basil and Vetiver overwhelm even this amount of citrus and the combination of this two oil bombs with Suedrall gives it a moist, damp and...
  79. Re: I need help with synthetics for some concepts smells!

    Hi SirenOfScent,

    For the wine cellar, i could imagine the use of Costausol, Kohinool, Precyclemone beta and of course a touch of Damascone Beta.
    For the wet larder, indeed Seaweed abs, Geosmin,...
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    Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Dear Milhaus, don't just compare drops with drops. From the 1000 drops, already 100 are odorless (DEP), 200 are musk tincture at 3%, 100 drops of vanilla tincture at 10% which both are substituted by...
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    Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi Milhaus,

    good point, there are at least three things we should consider:

    * when using aroma chemicals, the source is less relevant, the fluctuations between batches and sources are probably...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Hi Paul and Milhaus,

    Exactly! I was to hasty in writing down the formula, it is to be exact Violet Leaf Absolute from Egypt, provided by John Steele (California) and ordered through Perfumers...
  83. Thread: Davana

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    801

    Re: Davana

    Hi Aubrieta,

    Just for your inspiration: i've got 4 formulae for you where i included Davana.
    You'll find them here:...
  84. Thread: Vanilla bean

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    1,630

    Re: Vanilla bean

    Hi JEBeasly,

    i've tinctured 2 vanilla beans in 1 oz of alcohol in a dark glass container.

    Cut them open, scraped the inside loose, made pieces of about 1 inch, put all in a small jar, added...
  85. Thread: Enfleurage

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    775

    Re: Enfleurage

    Hi Cason,

    I've tinctured smoke a while ago, and the parallel with enfleurage is to get the scent eventually out of the fat.
    It's easy, take a look at the last steps here:...
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    Re: Chanel No 5 Formula

    Since this thread has been revived, my 2 cents…

    I've experimented with PA's (Christ's original post) formulation a bit and gave it a twist towards more common ingredients and a musk combination. ...
  87. Thread: Aldehydes

    by jsparla
    Replies
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    1,185

    Re: Aldehydes

    Hi Milhaus,
    it could be you need 3, 4 maybe 10 drops at .1%, but I find 1 drop of 1% even in compositions of 300 drops overwhelming. It's easier to add an extra .1% drop than extract from an...
  88. Thread: Aldehydes

    by jsparla
    Replies
    6
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    1,185

    Re: Aldehydes

    Given the Sandal-, guaiac- and cedarwoods, rose and musks, C12 lauric might bring you a sparkle in the top all through the base. Start with a tiny amount! If you are talking drops in your formula,...
  89. Thread: Indolene

    by jsparla
    Replies
    4
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    713

    Re: Indolene

    Hi Nizan,

    difficult as it is to describe scents, and off-scents, i'll give you my 2 cents: Indole(ne) smells to me like 100% bad-breath. If you recognize that, it's probably good. ;-)
  90. Re: Beginner question- how to get my perfumes smelling stronger?

    Hi Cherryka67,
    Given the formula you refer to, it's probably not a bad idea to take a look at and study the formula's on my blog... ;-)
    Happy perfuming!
    Jeroen
  91. Re: New formula added: Spiced-up male magnolia perfume

    Hi Pears!
    Thanx! :)
    I haven't the exact ingredient list of all CreatingPerfume accords, but i can give you my educated guess, definitely recognizable the coriander/bergamot twist towards biscuit...
  92. Re: New formula added: Spiced-up male magnolia perfume

    Hi Nizan,
    Thanx! :)
    The accords are prefab from CreatingPerfume; i made some dedicated formulations for them. You can find them here.
    But feel free to use other standard accords to substitute...
  93. New formula added: Spiced-up male magnolia perfume

    Hi all,

    it's been some time, but i've added some new formulations on my blog. One of them is based around the Magnolian accord. Feel free to use, modify and get inspired ;-)...
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    New perfume formula post: fresh male scent

    Fresh male perfume like Creed Silver Mountain Water

    This perfume reminds me of Silver Mountain Water (SMW) from Creed. As you may already know i'm a huge fan of this house,
    and although this...
  95. Re: About to start my first fragrance - need some information

    Dear Shoulderpet,

    Welcome in the wonderful world of perfume DIY. It should be and will be an adventure, i'm sure.
    Your basic questions are all answered in this sticky thread:...
  96. Thread: Agarwood smoke

    by jsparla
    Replies
    23
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    4,317

    Re: Agarwood smoke

    I second Mumsy in here remarks.

    I've found the Black Agar from PA a bit to sweet, amber, as if it's a accord with a hint of Oudh in it. Suits me very well in some compositions. The PA however,...
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    Re: Improved site search - please read

    Ah, that explains it :)
    Thanx! :tekst-toppie:

    /* C:> "abort searching for non existing links on basenotes.net" procedure initiated
    C:> done
    C:> You saved 2 hours searching and trying
    ...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Improved site search - please read

    Thanx, yes, i already read that link this afternoon...
    But i can't find a link to a new search engine that returns clear answers :(
    Maybe i don't get it... skip the maybe :) i don't get it ;)
  99. Replies
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    Re: help with tangerine accord

    Hi Anaisb,

    i found Ambrocenide gives a good fix to most citrus notes, and Glucam P-20 does too.
    Happy perfuming!
  100. Replies
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    Re: Improved site search - please read

    And where is the test platform located... ;)
    Can you provide us a link to the new search engine?
    Thanx!
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