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  1. Re: Technical Questions - Odor Treshold, Vapor Pressure

    Hi rickbr,

    Many years ago I was very enthusiastic about the “Odor Value” of aroma molecules, and later very frustrated by the lack of published data. Now, I suspect that the knowledge of vapor...
  2. Re: Styrax (Liquidambar orientalis) recommendations?

    From (old) memory, the percent of oil / gum is about 1% for orientalis and 10% for liquidambar.
  3. Re: Styrax (Liquidambar orientalis) recommendations?

    PA has a 50% alcoholic solution.
  4. Thread: Blenders on TGSC

    by arion
    Replies
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    Re: Blenders on TGSC

    Smell and chemical ‘properties’ are poorly related; therefore I don’t believe that TGSC used chemical ‘properties’ to infer olfactory properties of blends of chemicals.
  5. Replies
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    Re: Chemically, what makes a note a "fixative?"

    Some basic reading about ‘fixatives’ may help because the meaning of such notions changed over time. For example, ‘notes’ are qualities of chemicals, whereas chemicals are described as ‘fixatives’.
    ...
  6. Thread: Ambroxan

    by arion
    Replies
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    900

    Re: Ambroxan

    There is some confusion about trade names of aroma chemicals as with AmbroxanTM. For example (-)-Ambroxide ( = (-)-Ambrox) is expensive and replaced by other compounds.

    Maybe you will find useful...
  7. Replies
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    Re: Civettone and Muscone

    Musk Tonkin:
    Grains 0.5% - 2% Muscone;
    Absolute up to 20%;
    Tincture usually 0.05%.

    Musk Kabardin (Siberian musk) usually did not contain Muscone.
  8. Replies
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    If synthetics are not a problem why not try 'Ambergris T Oliffac' (IFF) from PA? It’s more ‘ambergris’ than any labdanum derivative or single amber molecule.
  9. Replies
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    Re: Which ingredients go off quickly?

    Personally I didn’t have a real problem with discoloration, and the storage of dissolved materials in plastic tubes is a matter of costs, time expenditure & laziness. I didn’t recommend such...
  10. Replies
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    Re: Which ingredients go off quickly?

    Some observations about the discoloration of the mentioned chemicals.

    First a correction: it was “Heliotropin replacer” that darkened, not Heliotropin.

    Indole in the original container as well...
  11. Replies
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    Re: Which ingredients go off quickly?

    On my list of ingredients that go off relative quickly, even in alcoholic solution:
    Anisaldehyde
    Citral
    Eugenol
    Heliotropin
    Indole
    Vanillin
  12. Replies
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    Re: Question about labdanum

    It is not confusion if you consider the odor of Ambrox as the most important olfactory note of ambergris, and disregard the carrion & fecal notes of ambergris tincture. Some Cistus oils contain up to...
  13. Re: Best Independent Review Blogs that owe NOTHING to companies or advertisers

    Of the less cited blogs I enjoy Kafkaesque and Chemist in the Bottle.

    BTW, Octavian has a formal training as perfumer. About his esthetics and philosophy, his blog entries always reminded me of...
  14. Replies
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    Re: Perfume Sensitivity

    For me, the authors of the second paper “Artificial scents have no place in our hospitals”, by using the notion “artificial scents” without defining what “artificial” means reduce their arguments to...
  15. Re: Well this is a downer: 5 Health Reasons Why You Should Stop Wearing Aftershave

    With the risk of sounding rude, I will say that the heading “5 Health Reasons Why You Should Stop Wearing Aftershave” is wrong and should be rather:

    - “5 Reasons Why You Should Stop Wearing...
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    Re: leavo citronellol

    Your right, catalytic hydrogenation is the way to a synthetic product.
  17. Replies
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    Re: leavo citronellol

    Natural l-citronellol is isolated from geranium, while d-citronellol from citronella. rac-citronellol is produced from a species of Eucalyptus.

    Rhodinol can work in many applications.
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    Re: leavo citronellol

    For me l-citronellol is only slightly stronger than d-, finer and sweeter; strongest is the racemic!?
  19. Thread: Deertongue GCMS

    by arion
    Replies
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    Re: Deertongue GCMS

    I found this old references
    Appleton R.A. & Enzell C.R. (1971) “Triterpenoids & aromatic components of deer tongue leaf”
    Phytochemistry 10, 447-449.
    In...
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    Re: Is Skin Chemistry Psychological?

    Excellent post Carl57!
    IMO, the wrong word is ‘chemistry’, although some people argue that solvation in water/fats, evaporation, absorption and adsorption, etc. are chemical phenomena. In pop...
  21. Re: Ethyl Decine Carbonate - any ideas about this chemical?

    Adam’s link shows:

    Hexamethylindanopyran = Galaxolide
    1,2-Benzenedicarboxylic acid, diethyl ester = DEP, Diethyl ester of phthalic acid, Ethyl phthalate.

    Thanks
  22. Replies
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    Re: Blending with diluted materials

    Pyrazines at 0.1% dilution may be too strong (at least for me).
  23. Replies
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    Re: "Pino" prefix denoted materials???

    Did you have a look at the linked patents?

    These compounds are derivatives of Pinene!

    More patents
    http://www.google.com.ar/patents/US3716498...
  24. Replies
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    Re: "Pino" prefix denoted materials???

    Look here:
    patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/US3636113.pdf

    For exemple:
    6,6 dimethyl bicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene~2-propanol (hereinafter referred to as pinoacetaldehyde)

    And here...
  25. Thread: How to make musk

    by arion
    Replies
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    646

    Re: How to make musk

    Have a look at this:

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.co.il/2010/03/musk-series-many-permutations-of-musk.html
  26. Replies
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    Re: Nitro Musks and their effect

    Philip Kraft
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Scent-and-Chemistry/263202847040070

    About Kraft
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_Kraft

    Newer publications...
  27. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    I remember that in a paper by Amoore ambrettolide was one of the most powerful out of some 20 musk odorants. Its strength may be also boosted by the other macrocycles present in the absolute.
    ...
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    Re: Earthy dirtiness in Jasmine Accords

    Skatole can produce discoloration but it is used in minute quantities due to its strength, and so I suppose that color changes are irrelevant.

    For example, a good quality civet may contain 0.1-1%...
  29. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    About the original formula with 15% ambrette seed extract. I don’t know the CO2 extract, bur neutralized rezinoid and oil of ambrette seed should contain some 10% ambrettolide beside other...
  30. Replies
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    Poucher indicates price for the choice of xylene for cheaper products, but also mentioned musk xylene’s property to impart a unique sweet & mellow scent to soaps.
  31. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    I asked a friend who considers herself vegan about cosmetics & animal products. The short answer is that she didn’t eat something associated with dead or suffering of animals; and for her, cosmetics...
  32. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    No soap?
  33. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    I am not a vegetarian and didn’t try to offend some of them. Actually I know only that there are many kinds of vegetarians & vegans, and that some reject any product of animal origin for food,...
  34. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    The Natural Perfumers Guild had a contest, ‘The Mystery of Musk’, in 2010. The challenge was to simulate the attributes of deer-musk with naturals of the vegetable kingdom. There is plenty of info on...
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    Re: Do reformulations ever improve a fragrance?

    Certainly, for example Octavian Coifan at 1000fragrances mentioned that there were many reformulations of Vera Violetta (Roger&Gallet); each time a better ionone was available :)
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    A blend of musk ketone and coumarin is the reference material for the ‘powdery attribute’ (note) in the Boelens & Haring database. See:
    http://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com/downloads/Odor%20Maps.pdf...
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    I tried the freezing method with alpha-Terpineol 96%, but the results were not spectacular. However, the results will depend on many factors, like the kind of impurities. Success!
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    When I first read the GC/MS of Narcissus absolute by Petrzilka & Ehret (1994), my reaction was to put together the major components (>1%): 24% alpha Terpineol, 20% Isoeugenol methyl ether, 19% Benzyl...
  39. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    These classifications are relative. For example, assume I wish to replace p-cresol in a composition with either his acetate or phenylacetate.
    Putting equal quantities of p-cresyl acetate and...
  40. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    For me o-, p- and m-cresol smell different: o- medicinal, m- tar, p- cow manure, p-cresyl acetate hors pee. Poucher recommends the phenyl acetate which is chemically more stable, can be used in...
  41. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I remember some GS/MS of narcissus with 3-6% indole and 0.3% p-cresol. I also think that p-cresol is preferable to the meta-isomer. Maybe p-cresyl methyl ether is more in the direction of m-cresol?
    ...
  42. Replies
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    Re: Critique my musk please...

    I would experiment with traces of Javanol.
  43. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
    Replies
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    I didn’t find the link, but you can search their facebook page for Moonshade Carnation S&C, and previous posts. I remember that they replaced most eugenol and isoeugenol with acetyl isoeugenol and...
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    Re: Replacing rosewood

    Because I mentioned 1.5% Palmarosa in a reconstructed rosewood oil?

    Genuine rosewood oil is variable in chemical composition, containing 80-95% (-)-linalool, up to 10% cineol, etc. Oils from...
  45. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
    Replies
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    Success with your reconstruction! BTW, in one of their projects (Carnation?) the perfumers from Scent & Chemistry outlined a way of how to circumvent the IFRA restrictions on eugenol.
  46. Replies
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    Re: Replacing rosewood

    I found in my notes:

    90 (-) linalool
    6 Ho
    1.5 Palmarosa
    1 Eucalyptus
    1 alpha terpineol
    0.5 Camphor (Hon Sho)
  47. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    Dianthine was great, so be prepared for corresponding prices. From my understanding it contains first class Bulgarian rose oil.
  48. Re: An informative article about what's behind IFRA.

    It’s decidedly the most informative article on this topic that I encountered until now. Especially interesting is the view point of the industry.

    I didn’t leave a comment after reading the article...
  49. Thread: citronellol

    by arion
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    Re: citronellol

    l-citronellol (= rhodinol) is the isomer recommended for rose compositions by Poucher due to its stronger and sweeter aroma. Most esteemed was Rhodinol ex geranium, but I never smelled it.

    PA’s...
  50. Thread: Top note Musks

    by arion
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    Re: Top note Musks

    Ambrettolide even in small amounts.
  51. Thread: Alpha Terpineol

    by arion
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    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    My ‘standard’ is alpha-terpineol >96% from SAG. Alpha-terpineol from PA has a much finer smell.

    For Lilac or Freesia I would use the PA grade terpineol.
    For Hyacinth or Narcissus it should not...
  52. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    At some point in time during the ‘maturation’ process they may be present in musk pods, but will be readily metabolized by bacteria into more smelly compounds as trimethyl amine.
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    Re: Making a Pipe tobacco cologne

    “Enough nicotine to kill a horse.” Well, maybe not that deadly, but nicotine is easily soluble in alcohol.

    ‘Virginia’ tobacco (not the blend) as in Gitanes should be unflavored, that is without...
  54. Replies
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    Re: What Do You Feel We Need As DIY Perfumer's?

    Thanks BA. An excellent idea. Added your site to favorites.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    Musk deer farming in China is still practiced, but it seems irrelevant to perfumery because probably all deer musk goes into CTM. Actually musk production of farms represents about 1/100 of internal...
  56. Re: The monster which became a beauty, love on second sight!

    Indeed, there are fragrances which I rejected at first and then craved for them, without a good explanation, except the young age. For me it happened with Equipage (not substantive enough!!?), Tabac...
  57. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    My Benzyl benzoate (>99%) from SAG has a faint smell of …. Benzoin. The smell is fainter than that of Benzoic acid, for example.

    I also noticed the modifying effect of BB on the smell of...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Watery Green Base Notes...?

    :2vrolijk_08:
  59. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
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    10,849

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Calkin & Jellinek (1994) analyze Tresor (p.140) and Paris (p. 115):...
  60. Re: Do sunflowers really have a definite aroma? Or........is it just marketing?

    I completely agree with Ken. Ripe Inflorescences have the odor of oil for me.
  61. Replies
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    Re: Very interesting article

    Interesting, but the science part full of BS.

    For example

    http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2014-01-19/health/ct-met-sensa-weight-loss-hirsch-20140119_1_hirsch-journals-studies
  62. Thread: New Baby Smell

    by arion
    Replies
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    Once, many babies smelled of J&J baby powder. You are asking about the new scent? I think the ‘baby scent’ is a mix of the odors of milk, fresh and half digested, Huggies, J&J, Pampers, baby shampoo,...
  63. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    The Ambergris Ollifac resembles ambergris tincture 3% that I have very much, but is much stronger, is not enough ‘marine’ and has an ‘animalic’ note that for me is not entirely right, too plain...
  64. Replies
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    Re: Natural Perfumery repost

    For me the best solvent is ethanol. I use EOs mostly at 10% strength for fooling around with scents.

    A compromise for drops vs. weight is to weigh the raw materials, e.g. one gram, and complete...
  65. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    Bill, there is a variety of thick skinned grapes cultivated in central and southern Europe, I don’t know its name, which has a distinct skatole aroma. Maybe just pareidolia, but sometimes commercial...
  66. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    About iso-muscone and normuscone, have a look at these two patents.

    http://www.google.com/patents/WO1998032820A1?cl=en
    http://www.google.com/patents/US7767640

    I tried a mix of:
    4 iso-muscone...
  67. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    GC/MS data for the musks in the secretion of the small Indian civet were published here.

    http://jocpr.com/vol3-iss5-2011/JCPR-2011-3-5-196-204.pdf

    I didn’t found something precise about the...
  68. Re: Overpowering materials that should be used in very small amounts

    All the above plus p-cresol, vanillin and Javanol.
  69. Replies
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    I completely agree with Bill’s summary of the problems concerning the Japanese study. Most important in my opinion is the critique that the authors seemingly didn’t check if the ‘aged persons’ really...
  70. Replies
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    Thomas, I think it’s not off-topic. Surely there are smells called ‘old-x’ as a pejorative. I myself labeled aftershaves of the ‘Tabaco’ and ‘English leather’ type with strong nitro-musk notes as...
  71. Replies
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    I was referring to a review by Wysocki & Preti (2009) that I read on the net, but now I am unable to find the link. There Wysocki & Preti refer to a paper by Gallagher et al (2008) which were unable...
  72. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    I’m not a perfumer. According Ph. Kraft Nirvanolide creates that skin-on-skin impression. I would experiment with a blend of Cosmone and/or Musk ketone with coumarin and different salicylates.
  73. Replies
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    Right now I didn’t have the reference to a paper I read some time ago, but in my recollection the original study that linked 2-nonenal to old persons in Japan was flawed: the excess 2-nonenal is...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Seeking Information on Musk Alpha

    It has CAS# 63697-53-0 and prohibited according to IFRA Standards – 47th Amendment.

    A google search reveals Shanghai Pengteng Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. as supplier.
  75. Re: Congrats to Mr. Bartlett and Pell Wall perfumes!

    Congratulations!
  76. Replies
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    Re: Sexual Dimorphism in the Olfactory Bulb

    Thanks, interesting.
  77. Re: Your Exaltolide may not be Exaltolide... really.

    Hi Bill,

    The price of 15-pentadecanolide (= Exaltolide TM, Thibetolide TM, Macrolide TM, etc.) apparently changed a lot in the last 10-15 years:
    - Phil Kraft (2004) mentions that Firmenich...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Uuups, I didn't see Bill's replay when posting :embarassed:
  79. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Rats were fed with 45 – 200 mg musks /kg/day and NO adverse effects on embryos were observed. Mice of carcinogen-prone lines were fed with 100 – 200 mg musks /kg in order to see some effects. Frogs,...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Hi Todd, I never supposed that someone posting in DYT is afraid of perfumes & chemicals and it is interesting, indeed, to learn about compounds of commercial perfumes. I used your post only to say in...
  81. Replies
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    Re: D carvone, does anyone have?

    I will also go with caraway. At SAFC it's about 1$/ml, but minimum order is 100ml. :sad:
  82. Replies
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    That piece is meant to be fear-mongering. In high concentration a chemical may perhaps produce an allergic reaction in 1 in 100 or in 1 in 1000000 people and fall under IFRA regulation. IFRA...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Advice on a formula

    The final composition should be the weighted mean of the components, in this case the bases. But I would use the finished compound, or part of it for further blends.

    Your formula looks to me very...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Advice on a formula

    The final composition should be the weighted mean of the components, in this case the bases. But I would use the finished compound, or part of it for further blends.

    Your formula looks to me very...
  85. Replies
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    1,379

    Re: all-around enhancers

    I don’t know what exactly you ask from “all-around enhancers”. I think that Hedione, ionones and PEA are ‘floralizers’, while Musks, ambergris, Vanillin and Irones are ‘exalters’, compounds that in...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Some notes in IFRA'S restrictions

    BB will be 'useless' only if you use it as a solvent instead of alcohol or another usual solvent. For example your final product contains 80% BB and 20% vanillin & civet.
  87. Replies
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    Re: Fragrance as aphrodisiac?

    gandhajala@ No, and even Pfitzer didn’t claim to have an aphrodisiac (in the strict meaning of the word).
  88. Replies
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    Re: German GC page, Is this of any use to us?

    Maybe in Paul’s table the amounts are indicated by ’+’ as order of magnitude (a log10 scale)?
    + ~ 0.01%
    ++ ~ 0.1%, e.g. dihydrocoumarin in Irina’s link
    +++ ~ 1%
    ++++ > 10%, e.g. coumarin
    But...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I second castoreum absolute and add Italian cypress.
  90. Replies
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    I also have difficulties sensing Galaxolide, especially in concentrated solution, but in perfumes like Dune, Tresor and Ysatis it becomes overpowering. Maybe some component of these perfumes boosts...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    Edited

    deptulac, maybe I was too brief in my post.

    As mentioned by cacio, today the majority of perfumes contain a cocktail of ‘synthetic’ musks, and people show a bewildering variability in...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    Philip Kraft (probably the most qualified man to speak about musks) defines the term ‘musk’ as an “abstraction from the complex odour impressions of natural musk tinctures, especially from the...
  93. Re: Political ideologies have their own scents, according to study

    To me it seems a poorly designed experiment.
    And then:
    ‘The researchers /…/ said the results were less than 10 per cent likely to have occurred through chance alone.’

    I’m tossing two dices and...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    Ups, it had to be 1000 :embarassed:. Thanks for the correction. About the experiment, IMO:
    - trans-ocimene did not justify the price, and while using the rac imparts an undesirable terpenic /...
  95. Thread: Change in taste

    by arion
    Replies
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    1,288

    Re: Change in taste

    My most extreme change of preference: at 20 I violently rejected Tabac Original as a creepy-old-man’s fragrance. At 30 I was wearing it, and at 40 I developed an allergy to one/some of its components.
  96. Replies
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    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    Speaking about Poucher. Playing with headspace GC chemicals I modified Poucher’s Pink Lilac #1035 as follows:

    160 methyl benzyl ether
    195 trans-ocimene
    80 dimethoxybenzene
    1000...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Buying a First Perfume Under $100

    I completely agree with lpp and 30 Roses. Boys are attracted to happy woman. Wearing a perfume you like may enhance your self-confidence, good feelings, and happiness. Shining happiness will be...
  98. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
    98
    Views
    10,849

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    At Scent-and-Chemistry is a GC of ambergris tincture shoving a typical 0.05% -/- Ambrox:
    ...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    AHA! ... some time ago my wife told me that benzyl acetate smells very strong, unpleasant and chemical evoking the image of ‘artificial plastic flowers’ and polish remover. I replayed that perhaps...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Musk feedback requested

    Disclaimer: I am para- or an-osmic to some musks, so my opinions are perhaps very subjective. I don’t know the smell of Juniper Lactone, Macrolide, Muscenone and Muscone.

    Ambrox and Cashmeran are...
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