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    Re: SOTD Sunday 28th December 2014

    Hello All,

    Brin de Réglisse for me today. One of 3 fragrances I bought this year (the others being Iris Silver Mist (I emptied a large decant and needed to upgrade to a full bottle) and Avignon)....
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    Re: Roja Dove appreciation thread

    All I can do is quote Sylvaine Delacourte:

    Puredistance est une Maison de Parfum indépendante . Les nez travaillant en coulisse sur les Parfums de Puredistance sont Annie Buzantian à New York,...
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    Re: Roja Dove appreciation thread

    Are Tom Ford and Frederic Malle perfumers ?

    Is Roja Dove a perfumer ? Not according to Sylvaine Delacourte, Creative Director at Guerlain.
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    Re: Roja Dove appreciation thread

    Excepting, of course, the actual perfumers at Robertet who blend the perfumes bearing his name :wink:
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    Re: New Serge Lutens - El Attarine

    For me, El Attarine is all about the interplay between dry and sweet. As you say, Sugandharaja, it does come across as a sort of Lutens sampler, quoting liberally from many of his other works. To...
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    Re: Mandarine Mandarin

    Definitely one of the odder gourmands out there. The celery-salt note is, as you say Sugandharaja, very pronounced and MM is one of the few perfumes I know where (Z)-jasmone (responsible for the...
  7. Re: S.O.T.D. — Saturday, 27 December, 2014.

    ^ Hello Moomoolang, nice choice and welcome to Basenotes !
  8. Re: S.O.T.D. — Saturday, 27 December, 2014.

    Hello All,

    The snow here in the Midlands (currently away from London) has all but melted - just damp and cold remain.
    Sharing the house of Guerlain with Donna and Xscent: L'Heure Bleue -...
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    Re: Rank your Chanel

    Of the full bottles I own:

    Cuir de Russie, vintage EdT
    Cuir de Russie, vintage extrait
    Cuir de Russie, current extrait
    Cuir de Russie, current EdT

    No.5 80s EdP
    No.5 vintage extrait
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    Re: S.O.T.D. — Friday, 26 December, 2014

    Hello All,

    Another super lazy day, chez moi, flopped in front of a roaring fire.
    Yesterday, I had the pleasure of being twinned with Donna: Vintage Chanel Cuir de Russie. Today, I'm in vintage...
  11. Re: Article: On the eve of a new “Aura”: Introducing The Raymond Matts Collection

    $200 for a "plastic floral impression" ? Sure.
  12. Re: Les Exclusifs de Chanel - Misia coming Feb 2015?

    Chanel has the name trademarked, it seems (see Fragrantica).
    Always excited for a new release from the house, but it's been quite a while since they put out something special.
    Personally, I'd...
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    Re: Why must anyone listen to the IFRA?

    Things make IFRA 's nasty list for a whole host of reasons: some are known carcinogens, others neurotoxins. Quite a few are considered sensitisers, meaning months or even years can pass between first...
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    Re: Ever play SA in a mall store?

    Sometimes I put on a lab coat and pretend to work at the Clinique counter.
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    Re: Why must anyone listen to the IFRA?

    Sorry, but some in this thread are conflating IFRA guidelines with EU regulations / law.
    It's worth iterating that the two are quite separate.
  16. Re: Support for Turin's Vibrational Hypothesis on new documentary series.

    I'm no apologist for the vibrational theory. However, the problem of enantiomers having different odours (but the same vibration) is something Dr Turin acknowledges and tries to account for in his...
  17. Re: have alot of fomulas now what to do with them

    Hi,
    I would suggest you re-post this in the DIY sub-forum ( or PM a moderator here who can move this post). There are professionals there who can likely give you some guidance.
    Lucky you, though !
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    Re: a question about "incense"

    I generally take 'incense' to refer to a frankincense (olibanum) type note: terpy, spicy, woody, and to me, Coca-Cola-ish.
    As Cacio said though, listed notes need be taken with a large pinch of...
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    Re: Very strange level of service

    Out of interest, which branch was that ?
    Unacceptable service at any rate.
    Do Blooms Perfumery have what you're looking for ? They're lovely in my experience and do cheap samples.
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    Re: Do you use perfume every day?

    Sure. If 'm not wearing it, I'll be sniffing it on paper.
    I find I really crave olfactory stimulation.
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    Re: Tam Dao, not what I was expecting

    Maybe you'd like Sacred Wood, By Kilian.
    Here's what I wrote on my blog. Of course, Your Mileage May Vary:

    Sacred Wood was supposedly conceived as a sandalwood base rather than a fully worked...
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    Re: SOTD Monday 8th December 2014

    :vrolijk_26: ErinK, Jon; Mike, bear hugs back atcha. The Guerlinade sample was courtesy of a BN buddyette. It's a fresh, pastel floral very much in the direction of lilac and hawthorn, there's some...
  23. Re: Needing Candle Fragrance Development Direction

    Hi,
    Check out the DIY forum here on BN, especially the stickied threads on getting started and suppliers.
    Since you're farming out the work to professionals though, I wouldn't have thought you...
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    Re: Luca Turin reviews 8 December 2014

    Great, thanks Gimmegreen !
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    Re: SOTD Monday 8th December 2014

    Hi Dora ! Thanks for your kind words, it's lovely to see you too :)

    Seeing Hednic's SotD reminds me I just ordered a set of samples from the Paul Emilien line. No idea what to expect as I've not...
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    Re: SOTD Monday 8th December 2014

    Hello,

    Properly wearing No.5 (80s EdP) whilst trying out Guerlinade on my wrist.

    Best to all.
  27. Re: Top 40 Most Reviewed Fragrances on Basenotes with Overall Ratings

    Gosh, well done and thanks !
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    Re: "Unisex" a misnomer?

    *puts on linguist's hat*

    OP, you're not far off the money: the use of the adjective 'unisex' to mean 'applicable to all sexes' seems to go back only to the late 1960s.
    Before then, there are...
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    Re: Looking for a straightforward musk

    Oxymusc by A Lab on Fire. Musks supported by musks with further musky accents.
  30. Re: Which fragrance do you use the most/least of when applying

    Most - Guerlain eaux de cologne (eau de Guerlain, du coq etc). They're really more of a refreshing tonic.
    Least - vintage l'Heure Bleue extrait. Only need a teeny tiny bit, so strong and diffusive...
  31. Re: What is your favorite designer Women's Fragrance (as a man)

    No.5
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    Re: What's a good ambergris perfume?

    Huh, did not know that ! Interesting.
  33. Re: The Joy of Alum - Or Who Needs Aftershave Balms?

    Personally, I never really got along with alum as an after shave application. I dislike the tight feeling and prefer to wipe my face over with a toner followed by a good moisturiser. I'm soft like...
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    Re: buy analysis GC/MS

    Perhaps a group buy for a gc-ms analysis is more realistic.
    If half a dozen people were willing to split the cost, it would be much more affordable.
  35. Sexual Dimorphism in the Olfactory Bulb

    This study was picked up on the French perfume site: auparfum.com.

    Article here: http://www.plosone.org/article/info%3Adoi%2F10.1371%2Fjournal.pone.0111733

    Abstract:
    Sex differences in the...
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    Re: What's a good ambergris perfume?

    Fixateur 505 (now discontinued, I believe),
    IFF do an Ambergris Oliffac,
    Those are the only ones I'm personally familiar with.
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    Re: What's a good ambergris perfume?

    Although synthesised Ambrox(an) is chemically identical to one of the key components of Ambergris, to my nose, they're still quite distinct in smell.
    Ambrox lacks the rounded,...
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    Re: How to enjoy Guerlain??

    That some (many ?) people find it difficult to appreciate Guerlain fragrances initially, doesn't necessarily mean it's not a very good house. Their offerings are certainly very different from the...
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    Re: 28 La Pausa by Chanel

    Where ISM draws out the earthy/rooty/darker facets of orris with clove, 28 La Pausa plays up its lighter side with pink pepper.
    I've um-ed and ah-ed about whether to buy it too, but I'm not a...
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    Re: How to enjoy Guerlain??

    Hi,
    I think for most, Guerlain are an acquired taste. But oh, boy! are they wonderful (especially in vintage formulations).
    No need to try and force yourself to like them. Put your samples away...
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    Re: Must smell like Blackberries!

    For an intense blackcurrent / cassis scent, try Eau de Fröhliche no.3, by Erik Kormann (sample via First in Fragrance / Aus Liebe zum Duft). It was a limited run, so not sure if / where bottles are...
  42. Re: The library of fragrance..can men wear it?

    Surely you've heard the Basenotes mantra before: 'wear what you like'.
  43. Re: Warm/Creamy/Milky/'Blonde' winter fragrance

    Another scent I associate with you Cello, and which I think could work is Bois des Iles. Not exactly milky, but it is warm and comforting like a cashmere jumper.
  44. Re: Warm/Creamy/Milky/'Blonde' winter fragrance

    Cadjméré by Parfumerie Generale.
  45. Re: what do you research before buying a fragrance?

    Nothing. If I really like it, I buy it.
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    Re: Amber/Patchouli without camphor?

    I wouldn't personally describe Ambre Précieux as a real patch-amber, and certainly not camphorous.
    It has a nice herbal lavender thing going on - perhaps that's what you're picking up on ?
    If...
  47. Re: What musks, woody ambers are in Alien by Mugler?

    Somebody (apologies, I can't remember who) posted the below 'analysis' here a little while ago, which I saved to my files:

    0,002 Citral CAS 5392-40-5*
    CAS 5989-27-5 0,004 LIMONENE*
    CAS 78-70-6...
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    Re: Miel de Bois Lovers

    Still good to my nose. A BN buddy sent me samples, vintage and current, a while back to compare.
    The current stock is slightly tamer, a little more 'pale woods', if I recall, but definitely...
  49. Re: Angel - Never thought I would be an Angel lover!

    Agree with Cacio - it rightly deserves 'classic' status, even if it is not exactly my cup of cocoa.
    Still hugely popular - guaranteed to smell it at least once a day here in London.
  50. Re: What musks were likely used in creating Muscs Koublaï Khän?

    Unfortunately, MKK has been reformulated several times and is now much tamer than it used to be. So disappointing !
    I'm not a perfumer, but if I were to make a dirty, musk fragrance I'd be thinking...
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    Re: Best Irises Out There?

    For a lighter, more ethereal take on iris: 28 La Pausa (Chanel). Plenty of orris butter used here.
    For a 'death by iris' experience, with strong metallic - earthy - clovey facets: Iris Silver Mist...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    ^ Hi Mumsy. The Jicky EdP and extrait are current, the extra civetty PdT is vintage.
    Hope your sniffles clear soon. Happy blending : )
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    Re: IFF's space rose

    I see a marketing opportunity here: calabrian bergamot, virginian cedar, space rose.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Lots and lots of Galaxolide in their Musk Blend no.1.
  55. Yikes !

    Yikes !
  56. Thread: Lorexon ?

    by gandhajala
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    Re: Lorexon ?

    ^ Thanks, Milhaus : )
    I guess there was a typo (metathesis) somewhere along the line, hence 'lorexon' (sic.) appearing on Fragrantica etc.
    Mystery solved.
  57. Thread: Lorexon ?

    by gandhajala
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    Lorexon ?

    I'm currently sniffing a perfume that is said to contain Lorexon, but I can't find any information on this molecule.
    Can anybody help ?
    The perfumer works for Mane, so might it be one of their...
  58. Re: Writing About Fragrance is Like Dancing About Architecture

    I think it comes down to frames of reference: someone can describe a perfume wonderfully, either by comparing it with similar fragrances, or by detailing key notes / accords / ingredients etc. For it...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Quite the habit ! Richard Wagner only used 1 litre of eau per month.
    Lovely finds, Mumsy and Todd.
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    Re: Help me explore OAK

    Sure is ! Or at least there are absolutes and CO2 extracts. It has a slight dried fruit facet to the woodsiness.
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Mumsy, can I ask if you are you using real civet tincture or a civet replacer ?
    If you need some more Jicky (new or old) to compare, don't hesitate to PM me. I have plenty.
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    Re: Great changes on the Split forum

    Good news !
  63. Re: Do you think wearing men's colognes is degrading?

    Q.E.D.

    Foustie, good tip !
    I think I'll take my leave of this thread now.
  64. Re: Do you think wearing men's colognes is degrading?

    I'm afraid I just can't get on board with any of this.
    My understanding has always been that the Female Fragrance board has as its focus fragrances marketed towards women (as David said), not women...
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    Re: Le Galion Perfumes

    Hi Cacio,
    I have to confess, I haven't sniffed any in their original formulation. I know you have though, and would love to hear how they compare.
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    Re: Le Galion Perfumes

    I ordered some samples from ALzD a little while back. Copy-pasting my thoughts on them from my blog.
    tl;dr : nice (but not mind-blowing) re-interpretations that still smell appreciably classic.
    ...
  67. Re: What is the difference between good/bad and boring/challenging?

    Good questions, OP. My take is this:

    A 'good' perfume is one that tells a story well from beginning to end: it is articulate, engaging, and has something new to say. The perfumer has worked hard...
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    Re: Who is who on Basenotes: post a pic...!

    Heaven help me, now I have an actual photo to put to your review of Kannam 100-year aged oud:

    "The oud oil in the sample vial was so thick, black, and viscous that I had to warm it for two hours...
  69. Interesting French Radio Podcast on Olfaction

    For the francophones, this aired recently on France Culture:

    http://www.franceculture.fr/emission-revolutions-medicales-l’olfaction-2014-10-28
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    Re: Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur?

    Love Jicky PdT. I treasure every drop in my bottle.
    Yeah, we smell pretty awesome :thumbsup:
  71. Re: Good value, Buttery Smooth, Labdanum heavy Amber?

    Hmm. None of the really labdanum heavy ambers I can think of (like Ambre Sultan) are very 'smooth'.
    Something like Puredistance M has a decent amount and is 'smooth', but it's neither a soliamber...
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    Re: Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur?

    I can't imagine someone liking MdM but not Jicky (or vice versa), so very difficult to answer your question.
    My own preferences are thus: 1.Jicky extrait, 2.MdM, 3.Jicky EdP, 4. Jicky EdT.
    Do you...
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    Re: No more lady traders?

    I've enjoyed swaps with plenty of lovely BNers and have never given their chromosomal makeup the slightest thought.
    People are people and we're all here for the love of perfume.
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    Re: New Bond No.9: New York Sandalwood

    Oh. Thanks ! (mods - feel free to merge/delete)
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    New Bond No.9: New York Sandalwood

    Listed notes include: sandalwood, carrot, cardamom, fig, papyrus, oakmoss, amber.
    100mL £275, exclusive to Harrods.
    (bottle is gold coloured).
    Source: Harrods magazine, Nov.'14, p.112.
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    Re: SOTD: Monday, October 27, 2014

    I'm currently working my way through the line (222 today), but haven't got to this one yet. I started a thread about the house a few months ago, so trex, hednic, anyone, please feel free to share...
  77. Re: Uomo by Valentino: Is Coffee note very dominant?

    Not to my nose.
    If you're fine with Dior Homme and you like sweeter fragrances, then you might very well like it.
    (Plug: cf. my blog for a review).
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    Re: Bottle Size and Per Unit Price

    Makes good business sense to me that a smaller bottle would be dearer per mL.
    As we all know, the cost of the perfume itself (in terms of materials) represents a tiny fraction of what we hand over...
  79. Re: "The perfume of 67P/C-G is quite strong" - Kathrin Altwegg

    Cool. Wonder if it smells like Stella(r), by Stella(r) McCartney ?
    Alien ?
    Something by Satellite perfumes ?

    Somebody stop me...
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    Re: Can fragrances be viewed objectively?

    The problem as I see it is this:
    We, in Western culture, spent a couple of millennia debating whether scent can really make a legitimate claim to Art. Delacroix drew attention to the fact that our...
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    Re: Luca Turin - latest reviews

    Thanks for posting, gimmegreen !
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    Re: Scents as study aids

    My psychology days are behind me, but I'm fairly confident this has been demonstrated.
    I remember reading an interview with the perfumer Sissel Tolaas who said she was creating scents for her child...
  83. Re: Guerlain Santal Royal - Harrods Exclusive + other news

    Not yet, Diamondflame. However, I did contact Lalique asking for information regarding the perfumers responsible. Here's the list:

    Fleur Universelle 1900 by Julie Masse, Mane
    > Terre Aromatique...
  84. Re: Men's Fragrance - Traditional Alcohol fragrance VS perfume oil

    Which better suits your perfume ?
  85. Re: Guerlain Santal Royal - Harrods Exclusive + other news

    Uh-huh. I'm certain it won't float your Sandalwood boat Mike. Sorry.

    I swung by the new perfume digs at Harrods on the weekend and was very impressed by some of the the Henry Jacques perfumes....
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    Re: Luca Turin - latest reviews

    Amen.
  87. Re: Article: Chanel unveil latest No. 5 film

    Dying of laughter !
  88. Replies
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    Re: Harrods Salon de Parfum Opening night

    ^ Did you get locked in there overnight, Jon ? The place looks completely deserted !
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    Re: The healing scent of sandalwood

    A couple of misconceptions in this thread. To clarify:
    1. The study to which the article refers used Sandalore, a synthetic sandalwood odorant that was developed by Givaudan.
    2. Natural sandalwood...
  90. Re: Colin Maillard --- 1000 posts & counting!!! CONGRATS!!!

    Well done, ol chap !
  91. Re: Article: Chanel unveil latest No. 5 film

    Maybe next time Gisele's out catching waves she'll bump into the surfer dude from the Allure Homme adverts : )
    Anyway, there's nothing in this film that really seems to connect with No.5 the actual...
  92. New Malle: The Night (Oud. Middle East Exclusive.)

    As reported on Perfume Shrine:

    The new fragrance by Editions de Parfums, ‘The Night’, is aiming for the rich in scented heritage market of the Middle East. Master perfumer Dominique Ropion’s...
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    Re: Top 5 "Most Important" Fragrances

    Love Cacio's list. Mine's almost identical:

    1. Fougère Royale.
    2. No. 5.
    3. Coty's Chypre.
    4. Angel.
    5. Cool Water.
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    Re: Blind buy Cuir de Lancome?

    I'm not a fan of Cuir de Lancôme, either.
    Given your likes, I'd recommend you try the new Cuir d'Ange from Hèrmes. It's a plush leather with J.-C. Ellena's signature trace of cumin.
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    Re: Buying niche in the UK

    Harrods, Selfridges, Les Senteurs, Bloom, Rouiller White, Liberty, Fortnum & Mason etc.
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    Re: What Makes a "Pink" Fragrance?

    ^ That's my feeling too, David.
    When the OP mentioned 'sugary, vanilla sweetness' though, I got to wondering if, by 'pink', they were thinking of Aquolina Pink Sugar type scents.
    Hopefully they...
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    Re: What Makes a "Pink" Fragrance?

    Are you looking for a fairy-floss (cotton candy) type sweetness ? Then you might try Ethyl Maltol.
  98. Replies
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    Re: What do you consider to be Niche?

    To misquote Potter Stewart : I know it when I smell it.
    Actually, there's no rule saying we need to assign every perfume to either the 'designer' or 'niche' camp, so why get our knickers twisted...
  99. Re: Article: Perfume Events 14th Oct – 26th Oct: Perfume Society, Mandy Aftel, Barbara Herman, Candy

    Great addition to Basenotes !
  100. Re: Perfume Pyramid and the difference in classification

    And it's not just untrained, dumb-dumbs like me that are susceptible to suggestion.
    I remember a well-known perfumer telling a story about the time they were giving a presentation to a group of...
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