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    Re: Perfumery Practices & Principals

    Seconded. I found one of the major academic perfuming texts at a city library (forget which text, as it was years ago, but read it cover to cover for free).
  2. Re: Anyone know a source for Givaudan Chocovan?

    PA has a chocolate accord, FWIW.
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    Re: Hedione vs Hedione high cis

    Under normal conditions, doesn't HC just turn into regular hedione if not preserved well?
  4. Re: Patou's Perfect Lavender! I think I found it!

    What you have listed is a basic, common approach to any essential oil perfume note -- combine the esssential oil with a couple of its primary, pleasant constituents to extend and focus it. Have you...
  5. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    So you have rejected all advice, and have proclaimed that, opposite to what everyone here states, that it is possible to add "magic ingredients" to any perfume that will do all that. Good luck, but...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Smell some watermelon and you'll know immediately what I mean. You have a good nose. I doubt many humans can't smell it, as it is important for survival to detect off notes in our food, and nature...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Calone, along with tea tree, is worth trying. There was also a recent thread here on melon accords where the topic came up and someone knew of a premade accord with the paint aspect.
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Another note:

    The smells of turpentine and paint are intimately related for humans. You should be aware, therefore, that many fruits contain a paint note, including melons and strawberries....
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Be careful that stuff is strong. Not the easiest material to use, so don't get discouraged if the first experiment fails. :)
  10. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    This one's helpful too:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/231446-Musk

    You should read about all the musks that come with the term, "floral". Then you have to try one (or hopefully a number of...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    Tea tree is too citrusy?
  12. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    You are of course correct as usual. What I said has relevance only to the OP, not knaqsim's question.

    We often deal with different versions of the myth, that there are magic ingredients that...
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    Re: Frankincense to turpertine accord

    The best natural turpentine note, for me, by far, is tea tree oil (you can actually remove paint with it, incidentally, if it's just on your hands or something).

    It's also malleable within a...
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    Re: Glucam P-20 or Hedione (kharismal)?

    There is no thinking to be done. If you are dissatisfied with the fragrance you purchased, buy something else. As everyone says, there is no magic dust anyone can add to a bad perfume to make it...
  15. Re: Can perfumers control sillage or longevity?

    As with so many perfume questions the bottom line answer is familiarity with one's candidate ingredients. If I'm considering 100 ingredients, I have to know the siliage and lifetime on a blotter...
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    Re: Cinnamon (bark) oil repleacer

    Vigon carries both. A lot of places do, but none of the small lot places. So the issue for small timers like most of us would be finding someone else to go in on it with. Incidentally, IFRA also...
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Is this nature identical, or not found in nature? TGSC says not found, wheareas Moelhausen says nature identical (though i have seen that company make a mistake on that issues before). A nature...
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    Re: Vanilla Top Note Help

    Hmmm. If I smell vanilla tincture with vanillin and ethyl vanillin added by themselves, there is nothing shy about the initial impression out of the bottle. To me that suggests the main issue might...
  19. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    Good. You seem to have a passion for it, and some good ideas. It will be fun for you to study fougeres and chypres. I agree that those classic accords are among those that work well. Loved David and...
  20. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    OK, so your style question seems like a classic consumer question, rather than an artist question.

    If you needed to make a chypre -- unless for educational purposes, which are as valid as creative...
  21. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    Oh wait! You said, notes!

    You have it backwards, if I take your question literally. Notes are based on the concept of the perfume, not picked in a vacuum.

    If you are working from a brief, you...
  22. Re: Basic question: how do you pick your notes?

    With my finger! How do you pick yours?! Forceps?
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Feel better soon, Folly!
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    Re: How to dirty up my rose accord

    Thanks, I now have. Orris in a rose is interesting.
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    Re: Create notes separately or in one go?

    This is what I do. A perfume will have mini accords throughout itself. The "things that go together to make an important thing", can be blended separately. Your main accords that more could stand...
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    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    I've tried the cheaper "fish foody" musk and found that it could be useful in much smaller doses as suggestive of the good stuff combined with synthetics, etc. It smells reminiscent of head shop...
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    Re: Making a Pipe tobacco cologne

    I'm disappointed in myself for not thinking of this and appreciative of the idea. I see no reason not to tincture pipe tobacco, especially with the proliferation of niche tobacco shops everywhere (at...
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    Re: Hedione in the news

    Finally read it.

    Aparently the VNO doesnt have to function in humans (it has very weak functioning though it is there) for pheromones to affect emotion and behavior, and the article refers to one...
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    Re: Hedione in the news

    Thanks for the great post. Looking forward to reading it.
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    Re: Super E Iso, Ambroxan, Timbersilk, etc

    It can and has been deadly to drink a shot of that, so good advice!
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    Re: How to dirty up my rose accord

    A related question: Does anyone know of a slightly musty rose note, perhaps slightly musky too, reminiscent of dried rose petals in an attic, perhaps? I smelled a note like that the other day and...
  32. Re: An experience to know the Cut or Uncut oils ?

    I think you have to look at data sheets and gc-ms's to know, unless you have experience with a supplier or know their reputation A good, experienced nose helps, but people will still lie even after...
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    Re: Vigon blew my away this morning!

    Ha ha ha.
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    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    I think if people farmed the deer and didn't waste the deer meat/hide/antlers, etc, it would be as ethical as any other production of meat -- which brings up other issues of course.

    So if we are...
  35. Re: Something about linalool by Philip Kraft

    Linalool is to me "the smell of nature", as weird and unattractive as it smells in concentrated form. It's in everything, almost, as anyone who has looked at a lot of gc-ms's knows.
  36. Re: The Height Of Cultivation Always Runs Back To Simplicity

    There is a differrence between using a metaphor and sounding mystical. So no, you don't lose your "everyman card". Jeez. ;)
  37. Re: The Height Of Cultivation Always Runs Back To Simplicity

    I somehow created a perfume of something like 150 mostly naturals and sold it successfully for years, so there appears to be a weird zone of reality somewhere where one can waltz right past obscene...
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    Re: Molecular Shape vs. Molecular Vibration

    I find I immediately relate to serious musicians -- there is definitely a different consciousness of sorts -- actually I think most of that applies to serious artists rather than just musicians --...
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    Re: Molecular Shape vs. Molecular Vibration

    Great idea for a thread but you're making me want to kill a couple hours learning that stuff better, you rascal. :)

    Many of us find the qualities of music appropo to scent, and that is suggestive...
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    Re: Recreate Tom Ford's Amber Absolute

    If it has an incense accord, a material to try might be olibanum, which is a "bridge between the two worlds." (I've never smelled Ford's amber, btw)
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    Re: Best Pine Essential Oil?

    I've also been long interested in this topic, as I've never settled on a favorite pine, and I know it's just because I haven't smelled it yet. Nothing quite beats the smell of pine needles in nature,...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Creating Perfume and Perfume Apprentice had it, I believe. This is the one you're talking about, right?

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1000822.html
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    Re: Ambergris oil

    I'd say ambergris is used way more for its smell than fixative qualities. Maybe you meant "exalting qualities"? Age is requirred to have the smell blossom, for some ambergris, unfortunately.
  44. Re: Geosmin can be detected in 0.1 parts per billion!

    Yep. Thinking in terms of natural selection and adaptation more often than not leads to a plausible answer in theoretical biology.

    Obviously, human survival has always depended on the ability to...
  45. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    Great! Looking forward to it, and to sharing some thoughts on it!
  46. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    Consider yourself lucky to have any. (I would seriously be tempted to slather myself with that 90 years old, btw, and sounds as if you have an enjoyable collection of life's pleasures :)))

    My best...
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    Re: Greek island!

    The first thought that occured to me was fenugreek. An interesting and underappreciated sweet spice.
  48. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    I would. PM me. I'm very experienced with all kinds of sandalwoods going back 25 years, before the good stuff was at all difficult to get.

    What I would advise is that that oil is going to go too...
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    Re: Best Value on Oils?

    The light oud I bought from Liberty, though of course very expensive as anywhere, was of excellent quality and I reordered several times(this was several years ago). I've also had no problems with...
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    Re: Best Value on Oils?

    Judging from your location and situation, I would suggest Liberty, which is located in Portland. All you need is to do is order at least $50 with every order, or they won't deal with you. But you get...
  51. Thread: Ginger?

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Ginger?

    I had good results with a quality essential oil (not a cheap brand) making a Maui inspired perfume as its prominent note. It's certainly powerful and challenging to use. But that doesn't mean it...
  52. Re: Less volatile alternative to Methyl Salicylate

    I would check Wintergreen's gc-ms profiles for secondary chemicals, and maybe consider natural wintergreen, if it contains other things that last longer. (too lazy/busy to look it up). Sometimes one...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    Excellent learning exercise for everyone, really university worthy. Thanks to David for initiating this.

    (Sad that life situation is not such that I can personally participate, but just wanted to...
  54. Re: Question: How to Evaluate Your Final Perfume and What to Do if Something Goes Wrong

    Damage control: If there is a material or accord that you feel has to be there but has an undesirable note or discord (perhaps due to flaws in the materials themselves, or even, say in a functional...
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    Re: Osmanthus absolute

    The thinking I've encountered is something like, "It's my product and I can call it whatever I want," as if it's a branding issue.
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    Re: The diy lab

    Jeb and Julian -- very nice and impressive! :)

    Eveyone has their own journey with this stuff. It's fun because every time I'm in some kind of shop I'm using my imagination to visualize possible...
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    Re: Of Plumbing, Perfume and Private Messages

    I am currently getting all I need from the forums/study, though Chris is for sure near the top of my list for a future consult if needed or as needed, and I think his approach to perfuming has some...
  58. Thread: Gunpowder

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Gunpowder

    Gunpowder isn't just sulphur and I was wondering about the other ingredients in it. Potassium nitrate, I believe, is one. At least nitro musks are a distant cousin, and were actually invented while...
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    Re: Classic Cologne Structure

    There's a big difference between "a classic cologne" and "light summery fragrances". I've lost count of the number of classic cologne formulas I've run into here and elsewhere on the web. I'd suggest...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    It's weird but I wouldn't like ambergris as much with zero fecal note, because I think it's really wonderful as part of a musk effect. I wonder whether tis crazy to think this way, but... I once...
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    Re: Diffusers and Fixatives classification

    One factor for consideration is that some of the so called "properties" of a perfume chemical, probably or theoretically, reside not in the chemical itself, but in the biology and neurology of the...
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    Re: setting up a workspace: odor "prevention"

    I'm interested in practical usefulness for those using the search tool, and that if they want workplace setup info, they will miss it hidden here.
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    Re: A question for the ladies!

    Just expanding my non-insider opinion, which may have no value:

    I don't think the narratives themselves are neutral.

    After the ladies' posts, which make a lot of sense to me, I would think...
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    Re: setting up a workspace: odor "prevention"

    Why is everyone posting general wokspace stuff in the odor prevention thread?

    Just the other day someone directed surfers to seach for general workspace stuff, and I fear those people are going to...
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    Re: A question for the ladies! And the men experienced in market preference

    Not sure I am a good person to ask in terms of commercial sense, but my own personal preference for a skin cream would be for it to be more like a great smelling person as opposed to a great...
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    While hedionone and ionones are part of a classic tea rose smell, and can give a fresh tea leaf effect, they are also combined in other miscellaneous floral accords, while methyl ionone and hedione...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I would conside that sandalwood base to be superior to most professional attempts I've smelled, and often by a long shot. It's balanced, rich, and projects, with a nice heart, filling out the "smell...
  68. Thread: Gunpowder

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Gunpowder

    A nitro musk? None of the nitrites are suitable for perfuming, so this is just a wild stab. I also think nitrites aren't soluble in ethanol, so I wouldn't tincture them..
  69. Re: The Chemical Compounds Behind the Smell of Flowers

    I noted that one too. I also never thought of rose oxide or beta-ionone as an essential for rose, though certainly the oxide is extremely common. I ususally think of PEA, geraniol, and citronellol,...
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    Not saying I have the best answer, but my go to for a small quantity of serious vanilla was usually Oshadi. They are certainly not cheap, but I never thought to question the quality.

    I came to...
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    I agree with your suggestions and points too. I'm sort of talking about how one trains one's brain when being first exposed to something. With smells, I've noticed that the completely untrained,...
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    I would have a different answer, though that is certainly a sensible one in its own right. But I was hesitant to respond to this thread. If I want to learn about a chemical I research it, and in the...
  73. Re: Strange materials from my supplier (Boswellic acid,Salivia apiana, Larrea diviricata)

    Dragon's blood has not much of a smell -- the South American plant -- but is used more for color. A perfume called "dragon's blood" will generally contain a mix of other things, often intended for...
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    Re: When do I use DPG?

    Since you're buying fragrances already compounded or made, all you have to worry about is dilution if needed and longevity.

    So first, sample different fragrances before buying. Get some smell...
  75. Thread: Ambreine

    by DrSmellThis
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    Re: Ambreine

    Sadly, I strongly dislike artificial civet. It just lacks all the magic qualities of the real thing, and I don't trust the taste/priorities of the people (so far) who make it, with the possible...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    As a sandalwood lover I'd be happy to give you a lot of feedback. I live in the US.
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    Re: Perfumer's World home study course

    It might be really wonderful, but I dabbled in the free part of it and just couldn't relate to it (the classification system, for example). It might be one of those things where either it's your...
  78. Re: Ceramic top of a heated stirrer that I'd like cleaner

    As an old Tull fan, noticed the samel thing, ha ha! "...how to sing in the rain". In any case, nice to see the quote, and give Ian his props.
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    Care to expand on this technique, please? Thanks in advance.
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    Well then you are fortunate to live in California. Sounds like the 151 thing can work for you -- at least theoretically.
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    I was able to buy 200 proof alcohol only because I'm a "Dr", and it turned out to be much easier to just use everclear. To use 151 rum and then find 200 proof in quantity that one is permitted to buy...
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    Re: Getting to know aromachemicals

    To piggyback on Bill's point, I think when I first smelled ambrettolide many years ago, I found it sort of intrusive, obnoxious, strong and funky, but had no words for it, other than the color...
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    This is currently the source I was hoping to rely on.

    To me the key to a rum note is molasses. That's what rum is, after all. If I smell good rum, that's what I smell. Molasses. To me, the vanilla...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    http://www.researchgate.net/publication/229940225_Industrial_Synthesis_of_%28%29cisMethyl_Dihydrojasmonate_by_Enantioselective_Catalytic_Hydrogenation_Identification_of_the_Precatalyst_Ru%28%28%29MeDu...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Again, my understanding is that hedione is a constituent of natural jasmine, and not only jasmine. Here is the tgsc page that supports my contention:
    ...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    I highly doubt l-muscone is the single key to my reaction or a deer's reaction to deer musk (there are studies to that effect, that the chmical by itself is not significant so far). There are...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    In biology, it's not necessary to directly experience something to have a relationship to it hard wired into ones makeup, at least not applied to individuals, and an individuals particular...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Well, from a scientific point of view, and I believe a well grounded one, the difference is just biology. It's all about taking off our chemist hats for a second and putting our biologist hats on....
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    Re: Muskroot / Sumbul-root / Ferula sumbul

    They're not talking about angelica root, are they?
  90. Re: Vanilla scented body oil failed experiment - need advice

    Then NOW company sells vanilla diluted to around 10% in jojoba, which is very approproate for a body oil. It smells OK, like vanilla. No doubt other companies sell in this form also.

    You can also...
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    SP, If you are familiar with fragance materials and notes, a good way to find a fragrance for a partner is to have them shower with plain soap and then not wear any fragrance. Then after some...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    Smelled Old Spice Sport shampoo tonight and i think it was the same or similar accord. It's everywhere. I smelled four of their other shampoos for educational purposes, though, and that one...
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    Re: A Message To Our Community

    Maybe down the road a ways I could make full use of this, but probably not yet, though it sounds interesting intellectually. The very occasional fragrance would be good to know at this point,...
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    Right. The DHEA you buy at the drug store has little smell, but the related version on your skin might well, as I know I wasn't smelling androsterone, which has a familiar smell. There are I think...
  95. Re: Recs please for a newbie that wants to give her sandalwood it's just due +

    The idea with DPG was to use it instead of oil, btw.
  96. Replies
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    Ah, it's so nice when someone reacts like a good scientist to your post. At heart and by training I'm a scientist, and it's more fun to let some data speak and let what happens happen. Anyway, I...
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    I think these examples are apt. Above I mentioned valerian.

    Another might be organic peppermint oil. Tends to energize one a bit either way. Put two to four drops of the organic EO in some water...
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    But there is the phenomenon of conditioning to account for. Association. There is a ton of research to back that up in the biopsychology of mammalian emotions and mating behavior. There is also the...
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phenethylamine

    Here's a brief intro. There is a ton of information on it, and research into it's role in human emotional life. It's in chocolate, which is supposedly...
  100. Re: Recs please for a newbie that wants to give her sandalwood it's just due +

    It is soooo easy to ruin sandalwood with vanilla, not that the two can't marry. I would say dilute the vanilla more than the sandalwood by a factor of 100, just to be safe (not if you were highly...
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