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  1. Re: How does one train their nose to identify notes?

    As others were saying. One can try smelling the substance in isolation. But smelling kits are expensive.

    More in general, I also agree with what others said. Picking single notes can often be...
  2. Re: Your opinion between these fragrances? Help!!!

    I'd say spicewood is more spicy and woody, as per name, versus smoother and more tobacco-y Havana. Havana is not expensive and definitely worth having.

    I like Zino as well. Quite different from...
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    Re: Let's talk sandalwood!!

    Mysore sandalwood was not that rare back then and would have been used extensively. Unfortunately, overharvesting has caused it to become rare, and India has put a ban on its collection, if I am not...
  4. Re: Paris exclusive fragrances-- where and what?

    The Lutens store is in the Palais Royal courtyard next to the Louvre museum, so it shouldn't be much of a detour to go there. (My favorite exclusive is Sarrasins).

    If you want to drop Eur 500, you...
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    Re: Numbered Perfume Names Nine, Five and Six

    69 rue des Archives (by Etat Libre d'Orange) has a fun logo related to the number. 5 is sadly missing.

    cacio
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    Re: Your opinion: Armani Code to Egoiste to ?

    Welcome!

    Chanel no 5 is excellent and perfectly unisex. It smells clean and soapy, so nothing stereotypically feminine. If you don't feel confident enough, you can check the flanker No 5 Eau...
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    Re: Comme Des Garcons 2 Man - Anything Similar?

    As others in the thread mentioned, le Labo vetiver is the closest. Sahara Noir is a great straightforward incense.
    cacio
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    Re: Advice on eighties scents

    Conservation is always a random thing. It depends on how they were kept. Light and very high temperature speed deterioration, but on ebay or the like there's no way of knowing how they were kept. The...
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    Re: Advice on eighties scents

    Eau sauvage has lost its mossy-chypre base, substituted by fresher vetiver. Still nice and fresh, but different in the drydown. Incidentally, this is true a bit of most citrus chypres (Chanel pour...
  10. Re: What are some of your favorite Plum fragrances?

    Second Feminite de bois, which was the inspiration for Plum japonais. Serge Lutens is the king of these candied fruits notes. Boxeuses, Bois et Fruit, Arabie, and others

    cacio
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    Re: Summer fragrance recommendations?

    I don't remember if Grey vetiver is less than $100, but if so it's a good choice, a vetiver like encre noire, but fresher and more summery.

    I also like a lot Lush's body sprays, which are very...
  12. Re: Hermessence line, any that is ground breaking and worth trying or sampling?

    As others were saying, the style is light and ethereal. Some of them do have longevity, but a very light one, you won't have sillage. Others don't have much longevity in the first place.

    My...
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    Re: Age range of A*Men?

    As others were saying, the line is geared towards a younger crowd. Gourmands are very popular in masculine perfumery nowadays.

    cacio
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    Re: An Offday For The Nose

    I don't know what the cause is, but it's not difficult to imagine what possible causes might be. Any sinus problem, no matter how small, interferes with the ability to smell. A little cold, an...
  15. Re: Can leather based scents be worn during the summer time?

    In a cool summer evening, I think one can wear many things. But I don't see myself reaching for leathers in the summer, they feel too big for humid heat, especially because they are usually paired...
  16. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    As suspected. Sometimes a brand switches distribution and reappears elsewhere as the new distributor finds another outlet. We shall see. Parfums de France won't probably have the whole line, but...
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    Re: Cool and refreshing

    Several good examples already. I second Lush Dirty, which also comes in very inexpensive body spray. Superfresh, minty, summery.

    cacio
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    Re: ... Pick your Orange ...

    I like this house too and own several. Hard to pick a favorite. Perhaps it would be Rien, big musky leather.

    Re No 18 and Afternoon, I'd have to resmell. Perhaps it's the iris in both, and the...
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    Re: Recs for an aquatic musk fragrance

    I guess what you mean is that you want something with aquatic notes but that doesn't end up smelling like a sharp clean sporty masculine.

    You could smell Malle Lys Mediterranee: it's a cheerful...
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    Re: Guidance with my next purchase.

    I gather that you didn't like Jicky that much then; that would have been my suggestion, given that you like Guerlain.

    In the Histoire de Parfum line, I prefer 1740, which is warmer and leathery,...
  21. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    The Nordstrom in Pentagon city used to have a full counter devoted to Goutal, but last time I was there I didn't notice it. I don't know it's because the store doesn't carry the line or what. Worth...
  22. Re: Your help please: making a special BN perfume line for men/unisex (acquired tastes)

    I've been intrigued by the rotten citrus note that Christine Nagel has employed in Archive 69. it smells rotten and somewhat disgusting, but makes you want to go back and smell. i wonder if it can be...
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    Re: Estee Lauder Azuree Reformulated?

    I have sprayed the new bottle of Aliage at Macy's today. I don't know the vintage well to compare. the smell seemed correct, green and mossy and satisfying. After 4 hrs, the spray from the wrist is...
  24. Re: any perfumes to Sexual Sugar Daddy by Michel Germain ?

    Having been unaware of this brand so far, I'm discovering new naming gems. I was at Macy's today and saw a Sexual noir. The BN directory suggests it is from a couple of years ago, during the...
  25. Thread: Good taste?

    by cacio
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    Re: Good taste?

    For good taste, if you will, many examples come to mind. Classic Guerlains or Chanel come to mind, for instance. Complex, well proportioned, pleasant, etc etc.

    cacio
  26. Thread: Good taste?

    by cacio
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    Re: Good taste?

    I'd say no. True, taste is personal, and varies over time with fashion and what else. Still, as for the other arts, there are things that are just simple, garish, and what else, and thus might well...
  27. Re: Concerning Ford's Tuscan Leather---Acqua di Parma's Leather

    I agree with MT that the AdP doesn't feel as strong.

    What they have in common is that they both have a dry and sharp leather. But then TL goes for the standard heavier leather companions, while...
  28. Re: Joanne Bassett Leather Collection - Spanish, English, Russian, Tuscan, Arabian

    I must say that "leather" and "natural" sounds dubious. But then in the description of English leather there's birch tar, so if she gives the finger to IFRA and uses the real stuff, it could be...
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    Re: Looking for suggestions!!! :)

    At the expensive end of the spectrum, Francis Kurkdjian has some good examples, like Aqua Universalis Forte.

    cacio
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    Re: What's good at Macy's to buy ? Thoughts ?

    Macy's is a little depressing in the selection.

    I second the Aramis line, which is however not available in all stores. If you are brave, you can also check female counters, where there's a bit...
  31. Re: What are some modern fresh synthetic aquatic with a touch of spices recommendations?

    If you want to spend a lot of money, Histoires de parfums Ambrarem does that, a pepper kick followed by aquatic notes and spicy ambers. I don't like aquatics and find this like a punch in the face,...
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    Re: Serge Lutens 50 ml bottles....

    Very annoying indeed. Some I keep splash, some others I put the atomizer in then put back in the box without fully closing the top.

    cacio
  33. Re: New French House - Institut Tres Bien - 3 NEW EDPs!!

    Good news! I remember Turin talking positively about these, so I'm really curious.

    cacio
  34. Thread: malle une rose

    by cacio
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    Re: malle une rose

    Definitely a great rose, and quite different from Lyric man. I do prefer other roses, but the Malle is definitely worthy.

    cacio
  35. Re: Watches, aftershave, shoes, sunglasses... what else?

    Not much else seems to be there ...
    For timepiece, I think one can also go for a cheaper stuff, if whimsical/interesting etc. Or skip altogether if already iphoned or otherwise wired. I agree that...
  36. Re: Best shampoo for men ? (my dad's birthday present please help!!)

    Welcome!

    I have not tried this particular product. Argan oil is now all the rage for hair. However, it's usually put after washing, to nourish the hair, make it shinier and as a hair style (for...
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    Re: What fragrance should buy?

    My vote for Dior homme intense as well. Warm and elegant.
    Second A*Men, which is great, but stronger, so not necessarily safe.

    cacio
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    Re: Variety AND Consistency - your balance?

    Sounds like a good system.

    In the past, this was in fact he approach companies advertised for: a "signature" scent (with variations around it). More recently, the approach seems to have shifted...
  39. Re: "fragrance" in body lotion and facial moisturisers

    In addition, one should note that the formula for bath or cream product is usually different from that of the perfume version (if a perfume has other side products), both for reasons of cost, and...
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    Re: Critique my collection

    Welcome!

    Very good start! In energetic and gourmand orientals, A*Men Pure Malt should be in (Havane is somewhat different and worth having, though as usual, perhaps it wouldn't be the initial way...
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    Re: Niche Summer Fragrance Recommendations

    I like vetivers, like Chanel Sycomore (woody vetiver) or Malle Vetiver extraordinaire (superfresh vetiver).

    cacio
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    Re: Help me pick out what to sample next

    Good choices.

    Hard to think about anything as complex and interesting as Breath of God. Lush's Smuggler's soul (vetiver and woods) would also be perfect for the summer (though it's nowhere near as...
  43. Thread: note help

    by cacio
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    Re: note help

    While these are compositions and may not contain actual deer musk, the opening of Musc Tonkin or of Musc Koublai Khan give an approximation of deer musk. Deer musk alone, of course, would be much...
  44. Thread: note help

    by cacio
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    Re: note help

    There are many types of musk, and they smell very different. Clean or white musk smell like laundry detergents - what you smell when you open a dryer, say. Dirty musks, which include the traditional...
  45. Re: Name of the fragrance(s) which was entirely/quite different on paper than your skin.

    One that comes to mind was Eau de Gloire, nice and green on paper, excessively mossy, almost rotten on skin. In general, for the the difference happens mostly when some drydown molecule that doesn't...
  46. Thread: Yatagan BlindBuy

    by cacio
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    Re: Yatagan BlindBuy

    Glad you found something you like so much. It's wonderful.

    If you get the chance, try also Eloge du traitre. More expensive, and not necessarily better, but in similar style.

    cacio
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    Re: Ideas for Bold Fragrance

    Welcome!

    When talking about bold, I'm thinking about some leathers, like Piguet Bandit. It was composed by famous perfumer Germaine Cellier, who was indeed famous for bold, fauve-like style....
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    Re: the most versatile

    I'd say Dior Homme: elegant, but good for all occasions.

    cacio
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    Re: Longevity Question

    Good references above.

    Longevity depends on many factors. For instance, different outside temperatures, or humidity levels. Also, how many sprays one uses. Some people consider two sprays the...
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    Re: Dead horse question about Dior Homme/Intense

    The intense is more gourmand and has a lot of vanilla, so perhaps it feels warmer and more wintery. I'd go with the regular (which I prefer anyway), though both will work.

    cacio
  51. Thread: Steamy South

    by cacio
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    Re: Steamy South

    To be honest, I wasn't a huge fan, unlike Luca Turin and others, I am not fond of aquatics. But it was indeed a vetiver with an interesting twist.

    cacio
  52. Thread: Steamy South

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: Steamy South

    Sycomore is marketed as unisex - but indeed - it falls pretty much in the traditional masculine vetiver genre. Which can be worn by women without problems.

    As kumquat was saying, Guerlain vetiver...
  53. Thread: Steamy South

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: Steamy South

    For Washington DC's humid summers, I like a lot vetivers, which smell fresh and natural, and have good longevity. In particular, Chanel Sycomore. (Incidentally, O de lancome and No 19, formely...
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    Re: perfect female fragrance for men

    Very many. For instance, Anais Anais l'originale, dry and clean. (and I concur on Chanel no 5, edt and parfum more so than edp).

    caico
  55. Replies
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    Re: Storage like the pros?

    You shouldn't worry about 7 years. If you keep your perfume in the dark away from sunlight (sunlight is a no-no) and at reasonable temperatures, you'll be fine. Oxidation happens over longer...
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    Re: Cedrat Boise foul smelling... normal?

    Oh, I see, it's in the juice as well. Hard to say without smelling, it could be as you say an ingredient that was bad to start with, or overdoses, or bad storage (though the fact that the pouch...
  57. Re: olfactory senses become learned or omnisensitive?

    I don't think I make a conscious effort to look for specific notes, and looking at my wardrobe, I don't see a clear pattern. This doesn't mean I don't like certain notes, it's simply that I don't...
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    Poll: Re: Chanel Exclusive's Poll !

    Hard choice. I'd say Sycomore has a tiny edge.
    For the other top 4
    Jersey (a personal pet)
    La Pausa
    Cuir de Russie
    Misia
  59. Replies
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    Re: Cedrat Boise foul smelling... normal?

    You mean the pouch, not the perfume itself? it's rare but it does happen, some nasty chemical spills during the packaging process and quality control doesn't catch it. Of course, it should be a cause...
  60. Re: How do solid fragrances compare to their liquid counterparts?

    As others were saying. Solids don't give you the initial oomph of a spray. It takes time for a solid to warm up on skin. So the top notes can be more subdued, though sometimes last for longer. The...
  61. Re: any perfumes to Sexual Sugar Daddy by Michel Germain ?

    Thanks, good to know! Sugar daddies smell like the average twentysomething.
    I wonder whether the thing had any success.

    cacio
  62. Replies
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    Re: Gym Fragrance: Your Go-To?

    The ones you mention are fresh, though they are a bit strong - remember that when you sweat, everything is amplified. And a Creed to the gym seems a waste anyway.

    I do often wear something at the...
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    Re: Parfums de Marly at Nordstroms

    There were about 9 or so Marlys in the masculine section, I think it's the whole line, but I don't know how many there are in general.


    MFan:
    here in DC Creed and bond are no exclusives, they...
  64. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
    Replies
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    15,858

    Re: Washington DC?

    I stopped at the Nordstrom in Pentagon city for the first time in months. I saw they now have a Diptyque counter, a welcome addition. And I noticed the Parfums de marly as well upstairs in the male...
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    Re: Parfums de Marly at Nordstroms

    I saw them at Pentagon city for the first time, though I hadn't been there in months, so they have probably been there for a while. The lady sprayed me one that was dry leathery and one that, up top,...
  66. Re: any perfumes to Sexual Sugar Daddy by Michel Germain ?

    Resurrecting this thread, not because I have a suggestion here, but because I was blissfully unaware of this perfume, and saw it today at Marshall's for $16. A name that's quite novel in perfumery -...
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    Re: Fragrances and Hot South Florida House

    As others have said, it'll be fine, unless you are thinking about long term conservation (ie 10 years or more). After all, perfumes aren't shipped in refrigerated containers.

    Just keep them away...
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    Re: Stetson! (yes, really!)

    As you've found, the two should be the same, just different vintages. Black, Sierra, and Lady are different things.

    Stetson smells delicious and costs little, hard to beat that. Of course, I...
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    Re: Entering the niche world.

    There's so much stuff in niche that you're eventually bound to find something you truly love.

    Oriental spicy is the kingdom of Serge Lutens, so I suggest you liberally try this brand: Ambre Sultan...
  70. Re: Any masculine Lutens, or is everything so creamy sweet?

    Lutens likes sweetness and candied fruits. Of course, gourmand is now a big thing in masculine perfumery, so few people would complain.

    In any case, for butch macho there's always Muscs Koublai...
  71. Replies
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    Re: How and Where to buy Vintage Juice?

    Unfortunately, I haven't found much in terms of estate sales or vintage shops here in the US either. But it did happen, very occasionally (for instance, I often find something at the Cambridge...
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    Re: Atomisers, decanting and travel.

    There's no problem in refilling with the same frag. With a different one, you could get some minimal mixing at the beginning, but I don't think it's an issue.

    cacio
  73. Re: What would you buy if you were in Neiman's today ? Excluding TF, Creed and MFK

    I never know what these stores have - as you say, the selection varies, and what's at Saks vs NM depends on the city.

    Some NM have a good Guerlain counter, so I second the special guerlains, like...
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    Re: Recommendations from DIY-ers in Paris/Rome?

    Do you speak French? If so, the Osmotheque (the perfume museum in Versailles) organizes smelling lectures (of classic perfumes etc) that are worth attending. It's usually in Versailles, so one can...
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    Re: Atomisers, decanting and travel.

    There's no reason to carry around large quantities, so the 3 to 10ml things mentioned above like the Travalo seem the way to go. The container store here are really inexpensive and fun ones as...
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    Re: No colognes last on my skin, any tips?

    My skin eats perfume too, but yours seem a bit excessive. Have you asked other people whether they can smell things on you? Sometimes it's nose fatigue.

    Clothes and hair keep a perfume really...
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    Re: Bonjd no. 9 FIRE ISLAND: Reformulated?

    Btw, have you tried Jurlique Jasmine hand cream? Not a perfume, but it does give some of the same beachy jasmine satisfactions.

    cacio
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    Re: Battle of new LEATHER scents!

    In your set, I like the Montale best and find it the sharpest.

    cacio
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    Re: best FIG fragrance on the market?

    One should also not forget the striking fig focaccia of Womanity.

    cacio
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    Re: Upcoming new Infusions (PRADA)

    Thanks for the info. Worth trying. I find the infusion competent, but actually quite strong and not interesting enough, but who knows, may be one of them will click.

    cacio
  81. Thread: Petroleum

    by cacio
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    Re: Petroleum

    Petroleum is a very striking and challenging composition. To me it smells like entering a damp cave full of minerals and assorted rotting materials. While all niche brands now put out the requisite...
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    Re: Bonjd no. 9 FIRE ISLAND: Reformulated?

    I don't have the old to compare, but Fire island is pretty strong on jasmine, an IFRA no-no. So it might well be the case that it has, and it's now less jasmine-y than it was. Still interesting...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Greatest Hits : Sophia Grosjman

    Excellent summary as usual. And of course one could have talked about even more perfumes.

    Does anybody know the relation between 100% love and rose rebelle respawn. I never smelled 100% love, but...
  84. Replies
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    Re: When reformulations work out for the best.

    First time I hear of this reformulation, but at this point reformulations have to be assumed at all times. Dior has been especially notable for destroying their masterpieces, so it should come as no...
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    Re: Fathers Day Fragances

    Gift sets tend to come out for Christmas - but perhaps father's day will be an incentive to put out some.

    Why not do something humorous, like Etat Libre d'Orange Je suis un homme? A solid...
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    Re: Is Tom Ford a Perfumer?

    As others have said, he's not a perfumer, nor has he claimed he is.

    But I think that among the fashion designers he's the one that pays most attention to perfumes. The perfumes launched at the...
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    Re: Buying my first run of samples online soon!

    It depends on the price point. Here are some suggestions off the top of my head, in different styles.
    For mainstream:
    Chanel Egoiste: warm, smooth, sandalwoody
    Dior Homme: modern classic...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Opinions on Amouage fragrances

    It's the style of the house - and that in which they seem to have an advantage. That the current taste is for fresher. cleaner smelling things is, to a large extent, just that, a matter of taste....
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    Re: Recommend any female fragrance?

    I second the idea of checking TJ maxx or marshalls, sometimes there are great deals. Romantic can be a bit personal, I assume you mean floral and not too heavy. Things I saw at those places recently...
  90. Re: Anyone wear L`Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extreme?

    I don't detect much fig in Caligna either. It's worth trying it anyway. Philosykos now comes in edp as well, with greater longevity; still, as said, I don't think this could be a hit if you don't...
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    Re: I Need ADVICE!!!)

    Your choices sound great. The euro is still low, so I think prices should be cheaper than in the US.

    To the ones you've said, I'd add Knize Ten, a classic leather. Apparently, it's been...
  92. Re: CONUS Ostara sample group, a daffodiil soliflore

    Interesting, I didn't really get that much longevity on me. But my skin eats perfume. Or perhaps I'm anosmic to the key component of the base. In any case, good longevity would be a plus for me,...
  93. Re: Anyone wear L`Artisan Parfumeur Premier Figuier Extreme?

    I have not tested the current version, so I cannot say if it has been reformulated. I think that both this and Diptyque Philosykos combine sharp green fig leaf with sweet and milky fig fruit, so...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Morn To Dusk by Eau d'Italie

    hedonists's question still applies. What is a sugar orchid? And since when do orchids smell of anything interesting?

    cacio
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    Re: Montale Leather Aoud Opinions

    I perceive Leather oud as quite sharp and dry, sharper than the Tom Ford. Still good, just make sure you don't expect a plush thing.

    I think people talk more about Montale Oud Cuir d'Arabie,...
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    Re: Need help choosing a scent for my wife

    Lolita Lempicka for men for you or Lolita Lempicka for women for your wife? Good longevity and sillage in both cases.

    In the for men, the main note is licorice, so if you do like licorice, that's...
  97. Replies
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    Re: Need help choosing a scent for my wife

    Do you mean the current Miss Dior, or the old one? The current Miss Dior is a fruity floral (it used to be called Miss Dior Cherie); there are many fruity florals around, Chanel Coco Mademoiselle...
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    Re: Vintage versions of fragrances - Safe?

    Yes, it is safe.

    IFRA checks for skin allergy-type of reactions (ie reddening). If a small fraction of the population (1 to 3% I believe) turns out to be slightly sensitive to a particular...
  99. Re: Can't decide between Dior Homme Sport 2012 and Mugler Cologne.

    Both work well in the heat. As others were saying, Mugler cologne is simpler and more fun, clean and a touch soapy. DHS has a strong ginger-like note, so it depends a lot on whether one likes it. ...
  100. Thread: New here !

    by cacio
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    Re: New here !

    Welcome! You've started from the top - definitely a good way to go. And of course you couldn't be in a better place.

    I suggest you check into the Osmotheque - they organize great smelling...
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