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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    There appear to be quite a lot of options for extracting scent from deer:

    http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2009/11/how-whitetail-glands-work

    Whether any work has been done from a...
  2. Re: Musks mixture to use withe iso e super base

    Of the ones you list I would say that Exaltone, Muscenone, Muscone and Ethylene brassylate are the most animalic in decreasing order. Musk ketone and cashmeran both have very distinct powdery...
  3. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    Many of the French specialists import essential oils from elsewhere in the world and re-process them in France: for example Egyptian Jasmine Absolute may be further processed in France either to...
  4. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    I’ve managed to use some Hedione successfully with MMB, which is quite nice as it’s so effective with florals and citrus.

    Water can indeed result in clouding or precipitation if you get the mix...
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    Re: Rose Crystals Solubility

    Given that they are nearly always used together anyway, you might try PEA as a solvent for rose crystals: Iím pretty sure that at least 10% crystals can be dissolved in PEA without difficulty, though...
  6. Re: Different effects in a mix of ISO E SUPER and TIMBERSILK

    I think a mixture of about 3-7, Timbersilk to IES gives you a reasonable approximation of Iso Gamma Super, though Iím in the process of evaluating a material I think may be even better for that:...
  7. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    If you look at post #2 in this thread youíll see that David has already explained which ones are used.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Thatís exactly what I would have expected, which is why I found the report in Bedoukian, so striking. The best explanation I can think of is that the slower rate of movement of the molecules,...
  9. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    Sorry David, I think Iíve mentioned it here before but not reported properly on what Iíd found.

    MMB is 3-Methoxy-3-Methyl-1-Butanol

    A new-ish solvent manufactured primarily by Kuraray - MMB is...
  10. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    Iíve found that MMB works very successfully with nebulisers. For that matter it works with reeds, having several advantages over the Dowanols but the, potential, disadvantage that it is much faster...
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    Re: Odd Question: Real Deer Musk

    The deer from which the original musk comes are all species of Moschus (the genus) and Moschidae (the family) all of which are on the Red List - while true deer are in the Cervidae family.

    That...
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    Re: New shop for raw materials online!

    Iím really pleased to see all these - it really goes to show how big the aroma chemicals field is - not one of those is available from my own list! Iíll probably have to place an order myself ......
  13. Re: Newbie revisiting botanical musk accord and inviting critique

    In an ideal world the thing to do would be to use the natural musks extracted from things like angelica root oil and ambrette seed oil by physical means: entirely natural, fully effective and...
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    Re: Chronology of fragrance chemicals?

    Thatís a brilliant set of resources there Pears, thanks for sharing!

    Just to add a little bit of context to it, youíll notice on that list that quite a few materials pre-date the (probably) quite...
  15. Re: Maths and I are fighting again. Specific gravity questions

    If youíre diluting in ethanol, this is extremely good advice: 24g will always fit in a 30ml bottle.

    If youíre not diluting in ethanol Davidís 27g will be closer for most mixtures of fragrance...
  16. Re: Should Rose oil smell sharp and metallic

    The difference between Dorinia SA and Dorinia SA E is two things:

    1) Price - SA E is much more expensive
    2) The musks it contains - SA E does not contain any polycyclic musks - it was designed...
  17. Re: Useage levels of the new and the old - comparisons invited and discussion

    Also keep in mind those recommendations are from TGSC: occasionally they are based on IFRA limits, but more often either a repeat of the manufacturers recommendation or simply Billís personal...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Bedoukian reports that the saturated aliphatic aldehydes that I list in that blog post will polymerise more quickly in the cold than at room temp, so I donít keep them refrigerated (though Iíve not...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    You might like to look at my detailed post from a couple of years ago about what we mean by aldhehydes in perfumery and the storage considerations for the saturated aliphatic aldehydes.

    According...
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    Re: Plush folly (UK)

    Only just spotted this: many thanks for the promo :-)

    I do have Stemone along with an ever-expanding range of other things that will soon be better organised and easier to buy. However if you...
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    Re: iso Butyl Quinoline

    Thatís correct: I give myself a good talking to every now and then :grin:
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    Re: Fine fragrance/EDT/methy eugenol

    Let me see if I can help here. The first thing to say is that Methyl eugenol and Eugenol are different chemicals - both are IFRA restricted but itís very important not to mix them up.

    Regarding...
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    Re: iso Butyl Quinoline

    Sorry to have been absent so long David - and everyone - I just got overwhelmed with work and had to be very disciplined about getting it done. Iím not quite out of the woods yet either but, as itís...
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    Re: iso Butyl Quinoline

    Iíve done a little disambiguation post about The Quinolenes to help distinguish those available in the market one from another. Itís worth noting that even when the name is the same if the...
  25. Re: Nice read about 'chemicals' vs 'naturals'

    There are odd individual exceptions to both, but in the great majority of cases these two things are going to be true and therefore easily explain the observed differences in odour. Modern...
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    Re: Hot pepper scent

    According to the review on I Scent You A Day of my Anjin fragrance it smells of chilli peppers, though it does not contain any chilli extracts it does contain some Allspice Absolute, with citrus...
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    Re: Unusual Manly Scents

    Safraleine can be pushed in the direction of spicy, herbal, leather, vanilla, or skin; depending on what you put with it. If you've enjoyed working with it in one composition, why not try it out in...
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    Re: overpowering DPG

    Thatís what I mean about buying by the tonne! If youíre looking at a few Kg you can get it a bit cheaper here, but essentially Iím in line with the market for small amounts:
    ...
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    Re: overpowering DPG

    Just to disagree very slightly with the last point (I agree on all the rest), in the quantities amateurs are buying, TEC isnít any more expensive than IPM (though it may well be more than DPG). It...
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    Re: Storage and Preventing oxidation

    In addition to Paulís suggestion, which is absolutely sound, you might like to read my blog post on the best way to store fragrances.
  31. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    Thanks, just to be clear I’m not suggesting these are as good as the real thing, or even that they are as good a recreation as, for example, Orris Givco is for Orris Absolute. But they are a...
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    Re: Tolu balsam

    Iíve recently documented my experiences dissolving a Kg of Tolu Balsam in a blog post, complete with pictures and even a bit of video: the solvent I used was TEC.
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    Re: Guaiacwood melting

    This would be my advice too, not only because youíll avoid any risk of overheating and damaging the material but also because GW is the only perfumery material that Iíve ever know to grow a mould:...
  34. Re: Oud / Agarwood Source for Reasonably Price Funky Material

    If you want a cheap oud-note why not consider the two major recreations Black Agar Givco from Givaudan and Oud Synthetic from Firmenich?

    Both are pretty decent recreations and a fraction of the...
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    Re: Pyralone

    Paul is right that these two compounds are not the same, however they have similar olfactory properties and formulas are not always absolutely precise: where the perfumer intended to specify a...
  36. Re: Best jasmine and lily of the valley synthetics

    Oops! Well spotted - deadly dangers of cut and paste - Iíve fixed it now: The entries for Lilial were correct but had been incorrectly transposed onto Lyral. There were also some odd circular links...
  37. Re: Best jasmine and lily of the valley synthetics

    There are some good thoughts already here on Jasmine so Iíll just point you at my comprehensive blog post on Lily of the Valley synthetics Lily of the Valley Ė mystery, manufacture & murder. Of all...
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    Re: Hedione vs Hedione high cis

    In theory yes, this is what is meant to happen. However I found just yesterday that the Hedione HC from my bench, that I was about to use to make up a sample for a customer, was quite thoroughly off...
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    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    Just to add my two-penneth: I have both an ordinary grade of alpha-Terpenol and Lindenol (the high-purity offering from IFF) and the latter is vastly superior and more floral. Itís also harder to...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    I second that recommendation! I have to constantly remind myself of the need to stop when itís good rather than tinker until it isnít...



    l-Carvone is now on my sale list, should you want to...
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    Interesting to see that in this formula too, itís used alongside dimethyl benzyl carbinyl butyrate. I must have smelt that formula when the IFF team were demonstrating Nectarate, but I canít recall...
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    Re: Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

    Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate is one Iíve recently added to my palette, partly as a result of reading what Arctander had to say about it:
  43. Re: LIVE Perfumer Chat scheduled for Sunday May 3 at Noon EDT

    Glad I was able to make this one and looking forward to next time. Iím sorry Iíve not been able to contribute to the forums here as much as usual: life keeps getting in the way!
  44. Re: Why that musk? Ethylene Brassylate vs Galaxolide

    Just to confirm that Beaver does indeed contain Ambrettolide (the IFF product in this case) at about 1% - along with an array of other musks of course: well spotted and thanks for the mention! One...
  45. Re: Other than oak moss, what else has been restricted?(eg Polo Green)

    Many other things have been restricted - IFRA has nearly 200 Standards that Iíve summarised here - and because some of them concern naturally occurring chemicals that occur in multiple oils they...
  46. Re: UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??

    Indeed - the small size is good value - especially as they are including free shipping or free click & collect from Argos. Very handy indeed for people who only use 100ml or so.
  47. Re: UK perfumers: Sources for Perfumers Alcohol??

    Iím fairly sure these people are re-selling the product you can buy from Mistral - nothing wrong with that and may suit you if youíre buying other things from them at t he same time - Iíve done that...
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    Re: Dandelion scent

    I have them too, which may be useful if youíre looking for slightly larger amounts (30ml +), and writing that made me realise I should ask Mark to add me to the Perfumersearch page, so Iíve just done...
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    Re: Dorinia SA E - how did they do it?

    Just to confirm that, so far as I can tell from an olfactory perspective and so far as I have been able to ascertain from questioning Firmenich, the only difference between the two is the musks:...
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    Re: Cassis/Black Currant AC's

    Have you tried labienoxime? Itís very powerful so you donít need much but itís significantly longer lasting than most alternatives.
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    Re: How to dirty up my rose accord

    One alternative that hasnít been mentioned in the same register as some of Davidís suggestions would be 2-ethyl fenchol - not as powerful as geosmin, but still pretty potent - it will certainly give...
  52. Re: How to speed up the blending/curing process of a fragrance

    Anyone who pops up on a forum for the first time with an ill-considered insult is best not taken too seriously.



    Many perfumery materials are damaged from an olfactory point of view by heat and...
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    Most suppliers that sell the glass pipettes also sell the teats to use with them and all the suppliers Iíve used stock silicone ones.

    If you mean the integral droppers, thatís not so easy, I found...
  54. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    Which link?
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    Come to think of it, since then Iíve written a whole long blog post / article about Lily of the Valley odourants called Mystery, manufacture and murder.
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    Re: Adding color to fragrance

    Have a look at this article about using colours in cosmetics. The company responsible for the article sell suitable dyes: what you need is a non-water based colorant that is approved for use in...
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    Re: Adding color to fragrance

    This may seem like a mad answer but try just waiting: give it a few months and it will very likely go yellow anyway.

    Alternatively there are dyes that are approved for use in cosmetics (a drop...
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    When Iím moving relatively large amounts or very sticky materials there can be a problem with material getting all the way up the pipette to the bulb: the cotton plug prevents the bulb from being...
  59. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    If the alcohol youíre using has been coloured itís probably not suitable for use in perfume at all. In the UK alcohol that is coloured has also been denatured with methanol, which makes it highly...
  60. Re: Cost estimate for Aromachemical Library

    I produce a kit of 56 materials which comes in 5ml and 30ml alternatives: those are £175 and £660 respectively, which gives you an idea (though I donít suggest buying from me from the US as it will...
  61. Re: Best source to purchase Perfumers Alcohol

    In the UK, Mistral is the most practical source for small-scale buyers.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    If you buy large enough amounts they work out at a few pence each. I dispose of them by filling empty glass drinks bottles with them and putting those with the glass recycling so they are less...
  63. Re: Do you dilute your oils before or after blending?

    Both techniques work, but I suggest when you’re starting out that it is better to dilute first. You don’t need to wait for weeks though before you start blending: the resting time comes after the...
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    Disposable Pasteur glass pipettes, cotton plugged and used with a re-usable silicone teat (I donít actually buy the irradiated sterile ones but that link has a clear picture).
  65. Re: Please Help! I need ideas for a Tolu balsam woody, dry accord?

    Tolu is a fairly delicate material, base note and fixative. Iíve found it works wonderfully well with eugenol, caryophyllene, cinnamon oil and the like. Of course those are quite strong so youíll...
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    Re: Pipette blown up by Citral

    I donít use that type of pipette with pure materials at all, but I do use them sometimes with diluted materials with no problem but the bulbs on mine are silicone rather than rubber, which makes them...
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    Re: Vanilla and musk ketone

    Musk Ketone is notoriously difficult to get into solution: the solvent of choice is usually Benzyl Benzoate but several others (including alcohol as Paul says) will also work. As it happens there...
  68. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    36350
  69. Re: Fragrance contract manufacturers in uk

    OK, well get in touch and Iíll see what I can do. Most finishing houses wonít be interested at under 5000 units so youíre probably in the right place.
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    Re: DIPG in Demo Formulas

    Yes indeed, just a cheeky pre-dilution so the end customer sees no noticeable change (possibly) ...
  71. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    Thatís highly likely Javiero, and yes I still have pure Geosmin, though I may sell a large proportion of my remaining stock quite soon so you might want to ping me an email or PM to let me know what...
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    Re: Lily of the Valley

    I’m pretty sure I made those comments here on basenotes. I guess now I’d add that Hydroxycitronellol is worth looking at too, being more stable than the aldehyde and of similar odour. It also...
  73. Re: Making perfume basics. Fragrance alcohol and water. Any formula?

    You have. Heís right. Donít add water.
  74. Replies
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    Re: DIPG in Demo Formulas

    Davidís explanations are by far the most common ones, but occasionally DPG is also added to a formula to enable the aromatic ingredients to remain in the same proportion and the dose level to remain...
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    Re: Norlimbanol in oil?

    Nicely balanced :-)
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    I wouldnít recommend it. Once you take ethanol beyond the azeotropic level it tends to absorb water from the air until itís back at 95.5% anyway, and that level is perfect for perfumery as it is.
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    Re: Is this a Ambergris?

    It sounds as though itís just poo ...
  78. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    This is interesting, so I did some investigation. Certainly the DPG retards evaporation compared to ethanol, but I donít have the impression the effect is any greater than when using these two...
  79. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    Well, yes, I guess so. But then people routinely make accords of other perfumery materials that are widely loved, such as rose, jasmine and oud. Why not sandalwood? And anyway better that than...
  80. Re: Need help with the improving my perfume parameters.

    Thatís very kind, thank you. It was a great project to work on and half the credit goes to Victor who set the brief and chose version number 17 :-)
  81. Re: A useful aromachemical reference book I stumbled across

    Just to endorse this method of working. Arctander - his work on synthetics that is - is expensive but obtainable (in electronic form at least, through Allured) but hard to come by in paper form and...
  82. Re: Need help with the improving my perfume parameters.

    I use quite a few different suppliers, sticking mainly to big players in the industry for synthetics (or distributors of those more accurately) and suppliers of similar stature for naturals. Thatís...
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    Re: Creating Borneo 1834 from essential oils

    Just a quick reaction to some items here that might help a bit:

    I would look at a Molecular Distilled Patchouli oil for this, with a high patchoulol content - ideally over 50%.

    Itís most...
  84. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    In order to be certain itís real sandalwood oil youíd need to get a GC/MS done by an experienced analyst. That isnít a cheap option and, honestly, as youíre not looking to sell the stuff, I donít...
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    Re: Matching Techniques

    This is exactly true. However I think there are ways to help get you to successful blends more quickly: finding someone with experience to learn from is probably the best, but if that is impossible...
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    Re: Oud Perfume

    Probably not: styrax is one of those terms that can mean several different materials and is the subject of one of my disambiguation posts - Styrax / Storax - to help you sort it out: most forms can...
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    Re: Formula manipulation

    There is one available to download for free from the post ďA Method for BlendingĒ on my blog. It also incorporates a tab containing the full formula of a published fragrance so that you can see how...
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    Re: Where do you buy your atomizers?

    Best Bottles are indeed excellent if youíre their side of the Atlantic - if youíre the UK side I can help with small to medium numbers of atomisers

    *Note to self - get on and update the list of...
  89. Re: Geosmin arrived, altered my formulation

    Yes, it does a bit.
  90. Re: Fragrance contract manufacturers in uk

    Depending on the scale and which country youíre in this may be something I can help you with, if you drop me an email through my website or a DM here with some details of what you need Iíll let you...
  91. Re: Need help with the improving my perfume parameters.

    I think Iíd recommend trying that too. Because a supplier puts on their website that something is ď100% Pure and Natural Essential OilĒ does not necessarily mean that it is so and a quick trawl...
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    Re: Sticky-mageddon

    Yes, thatís a better idea than mine, more logical.

    It would also be good to tidy up the titles of some of the others - such as the one thatís really about Perfumerís Alcohol and looks as though...
  93. Re: Geosmin - Looking for Guidance About How to Sell It

    I remember writing those words ... Geosmin is one of those materials that deceives you: keep diluting it and it just keeps on smelling the same.
  94. Replies
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    Re: Bacon fragrance

    I agree guiacol is an excellent basis for this - when using it in other things there is always a danger of going from smoke to bacon I think.

    I also agree with Paul that you really need some of...
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    Re: Replacing Scent memory

    Great research that Iíd not seen before, so thanks for that. I guess Iíd put it the other way round in that I think what we do when we train ourselves to be able to detect and recognise smells in...
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    Re: Sticky-mageddon

    I think Iíd suggest two stickies:
    1) Resources with links to things like suppliers and so forth as youíre suggesting
    2) How to Make Perfume - Beginners start here - with links to the starting...
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    Re: Blond Leather Accord

    Just following up on the quinolines point, Iíve done one of my disambiguation posts covering Quinolines that people might find useful in checking out the alternatives, because there are several...
  98. Re: Have someone sharing their Perfumer Father's Formulae with me

    Iím suffering from a severe case of logo-envy now...
  99. Replies
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    Re: Creating natural perfume oils

    Iíd never come across that before - I love it when I learn something completely unexpected - thanks!
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    Re: Realistic Neroli oil replacer?

    I have tried a couple of different Ďneroli lightí oils and didnít find them convincing personally. But I think they vary from supplier to supplier so you may find a better one than I did.

    As a...
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000