Search:

Type: Posts; User: George Tedder; Keyword(s):

Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4

Search: Search took 0.02 seconds.

  1. Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    As I said, generally one divides by the vapor pressure. There may be other methods. I haven’t used them. Best to make up a sample and adjust with the nose.
  2. Replies
    3
    Views
    1,179

    Re: Wormwood and Wisteria

    I am not aware of any commercially available wisteria extracts. To what are you referring?
  3. Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    I don't know how this answers your initial question of " how do you interpret GC-FID (Flame Ionization Detectors) percentages in the headspace?." Nor does it answer "Is this actual molecules already...
  4. Replies
    8
    Views
    656

    Re: Disposing of failed experiments.

    I mean, if they are really small samples you could probably flush them down the toilet. But obviously that isn't recommended.

    Just take them to wherever your local waste management company would...
  5. Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    An MS doesn’t give quantitative results. It only identifies compounds. FID does not give qualitative results, it only quantifies compounds — the percentage of which is proportional to the peak area...
  6. Replies
    26
    Views
    1,575

    Re: Making Fougere

    I mean ... it's really just the one. But, sure, I think for the ratio of price to quality Penhaligons is not so bad. Of course things have been cheapened and changed since they were bought.
  7. Replies
    26
    Views
    1,575

    Re: Making Fougere

    I’m not entirely certain what you mean by this question. It’s a bit like saying what’s my philosophy behind making coffee. That requires a few basic things, like roasted beans and water. Maybe some...
  8. Replies
    26
    Views
    1,575

    Re: Making Fougere

    No one advocated for not sharing; that is what this place is about. You ought to calm down, sir.
  9. Replies
    26
    Views
    1,575

    Re: Making Fougere

    To be fair, Bill, this time he didn't post a link. It would seem that embedding videos within Basenotes should be fine, if that is some sort of feature that they offer. If it is not, perhaps it is...
  10. Replies
    26
    Views
    1,575

    Re: Making Fougere

    What a ridiculously nasty thing to accuse other people of.

    I concur with you that, having traversed this forum for several years, that rules are clearly NOT always enforced equitably. But these...
  11. Replies
    59
    Views
    1,606

    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    These three notes that you mention are all very toppy. To be a proper fragrance you need notes with more longevity. You should specify what sort of end you want to work toward; or you will very...
  12. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Please excuse me, that was simply a typo.




    And I told you there is no difference in "construction." There are trends, and tastes, and banning of materials, and all else that has been alluded...
  13. Replies
    9
    Views
    674

    Re: Clove bud oil - Farnesol

    You can find the information in the Annexes. See here: https://ifrafragrance.org/self-regulation/standards-guidance
  14. Replies
    3
    Views
    511

    Re: Molecules in candles

    Diethyl phthalate, isopropyl myristate.
  15. Replies
    9
    Views
    674

    Re: Clove bud oil - Farnesol

    It certainly is way higher than 0.92%. Perhaps you meant 92%.

    I wouldn't take data from the good scents website. It is a venerable resource and quite valuable, but IFRA publishes it's own specs...
  16. Replies
    3
    Views
    511

    Re: Molecules in candles

    No. Do not dissolve anything. If you must use a solvent, for the strongest of materials, consider DEP or IPM. Benzy benzoate can be used as well.
  17. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    This is far from the truth. As I mentioned above, micro amounts of many many things might not make the perfume at all different to the human nose. As perfumes are worked, and reworked, formulas...
  18. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Paul, I don't see much disagreement. Perhaps this is a semantic difference, as the questioner didn't define what she meant by there being a "fundamental difference" in the construction of a...
  19. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    No, there is no fundamental difference in the construction. Perfumes (at least fine fragrance) have been the same for hundreds of years. Different categories (laundry care, home care, hair care)...
  20. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    These are the two most accurate reasons offered for why fragrance has changed so much. I wouldn't go so far as to say animal ingredients or oakmoss automatically add depth and richness. Plenty of old...
  21. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    I hate to be pedantic, but, again this isn't correct. There is very little correlation between price and quality in the perfume industry.

    Much better to look at price:quality ratio; and, in...
  22. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Some white musks are very, very old. Their inclusion in a fragrance is not what makes something smell more modern, less classic, or niche/not niche. I am not aware of any general rule of white musks...
  23. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Where do you think large companies get their perfumers. Many, many still come from ISIPCA. Some are trained internally.
  24. Replies
    19
    Views
    914

    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    Spray a 0.1% solution of linalool on your skin, and dab some neat oil on your skin. You will find a difference in the longevity (if equal amounts are applied). Simply by account of the fact that...
  25. Replies
    19
    Views
    914

    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    Best to measure the longevity of each material itself. Using less of something will mean it lasts less long. A 1% dilution of linalool in ethanol will not last as long as the neat material.

    Study...
  26. Replies
    19
    Views
    914

    Re: how to make notes disappear faster?

    This isn't strictly true. Water has a molecular weight of 18g/mol and ethanol 46g/mol. One is more volatile than the other (and not the one with the higher weight). There are many more factors at...
  27. Replies
    10
    Views
    829

    Re: How do I get that crispness?

    This is exactly the case. There are no steadfast rules. It depends on the fragrance family, the dosage, the base employed (hydro alcoholic, surfactant, etc) and other factors. Anyone giving general...
  28. Re: Hmmm, What makes Ammonia? I have an Ammonia note appearing in the bottle headspace.

    What is the PH of the perfume? Ammonia has quite a high ph. To be honest I can't fathom that it would form during the process.
  29. Replies
    13
    Views
    816

    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    It depends how you define base note. But I would say coranol is much longer lasting than linalool; I would not say it is fleeting.
  30. Replies
    13
    Views
    816

    Re: Long Lasting Linalool Types

    I cannot make proper comments as I have not smelled your samples. But Linalool should, itself, smell of coriander; of which it is a major constituent.

    Ethyl Linalool and Linalool should smell...
  31. Replies
    75
    Views
    2,712

    Re: Possible Grossjman substitutes?

    Your list is far too expansive. Try replacing ionone with ionone. There are other methyl ionones. Iso Alpha, Alpha, Gamma, isoraldehine, iralia. All different isomer ratios. Try even dihydro ionone...
  32. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    This is indeed the case, but not in the US I don’t think. It varies by region. I have seen specific denatured products listed too. You mention Arden; I know someone who used to work for them. It was...
  33. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    No problem with curiosity. I’m skeptical, though I could be wrong, that in a double blind presentation people could pick out what kind of denaturant was used in the ethanol. But that’s an...
  34. Re: Embarrassing ignorance: what proof alcohol was ised in vintage perfumes?

    I do wonder why you are curious about the proof of previously used ethanol. The products we have today are cheap and generally extremely pure. What more is needed? Standard perfumer's alcohol is like...
  35. Replies
    3
    Views
    707

    Re: Cis-3-hexenyl hexanoate?

    Depends on how much was used in the formula. 1:1 substitutions never will be perfect. I would go with the formate, which i find closer than the benzoate. But you won't be out of the odor category...
  36. Replies
    18
    Views
    1,725

    Re: Top notes from Ellena

    EDT/EDP etc are all marketing terms and mean nothing. All JML fragrances (in the normal line) are marketed as colognes and some are concentrated at 18%. Unless you have seen the formula, or done...
  37. Replies
    6
    Views
    718

    Re: Substitute for Galbanolene Super

    Undecatriene is galbanolene.
  38. Replies
    6
    Views
    718

    Re: Substitute for Galbanolene Super

    None of these are close. If you cant get this material, use some natrual galbanum.
  39. Replies
    18
    Views
    1,725

    Re: Top notes from Ellena

    This isn't strictly true. IFRA regulates he concentration of material IN THE FINAL PRODUCT. It depends on how concentrated your fragrance is.
  40. Replies
    18
    Views
    1,725

    Re: Top notes from Ellena

    I agree with the word thin; but I don't see this as a detractor. It is what makes his work very interesting for me. I love his style and think his fragrances are some of the best well blended out...
  41. Replies
    20
    Views
    867

    Re: What’s in Baccarat by MF Kurkdjian

    It is notoriously (barely/in)soluble in the classic solvents. Use it pure, in small quantity, and with mild heat. Should be fine.
  42. Re: help reaching similar/equal fragrance to jo malone oud & bergamot

    If you have three different natural ouds, your budget is certainly higher than Jo Malone’s. I sincerely doubt the fragrance contains real oud. It’s mainly Cypriol.
  43. Replies
    5
    Views
    635

    Re: GC/MS Help

    Sometimes with established literature; but mostly with your nose.
  44. Replies
    17
    Views
    1,444

    Re: Is Patchone Trend?

    Gucci Guilty may indeed contain apo Patchone. I was talking to someone quite knowledgeable who seemed to think as much just the other day.

    As to Patchone smelling like shit, the sample may be...
  45. Replies
    18
    Views
    1,195

    Re: Aldehydes.....sigh.

    Abs and oil, most likely.
  46. Replies
    18
    Views
    1,195

    Re: Aldehydes.....sigh.

    For starters because the large companies who make them don’t compound ANYTHING in dilution, EVER, during production — unless the material is extremely extremely potent. No Aldehyde really comes...
  47. Replies
    9
    Views
    758

    Re: Musk Ketone in Hexylene Glycol

    Is there a particular reason why ?
  48. Replies
    9
    Views
    758

    Re: Musk Ketone in Hexylene Glycol

    No idea about hexylene glycol. It’s not a standard industry solvent. For musk Ketone, neither DPG nor ethanol will do. Use diethyl phthalate. easily soluable at 10%.
  49. Re: Perfumers education - ISIPCA SUMMER COURSES

    I have never taken a summer course ISIPCA. But I know the women who taugh one of the summer courses (sorry I don’t know if it’s the advanced one) for the last three years, and she is truly wonderful....
  50. Re: Does this look like an okay Perfumer's Apprentice Order?

    I understand what you said in your original post. But, for example, delta carene could easily be used in a woodsy, herbal creation -- or in a gourmand one with lactonic mango notes. Aroma chemicals...
  51. Re: Does this look like an okay Perfumer's Apprentice Order?

    This is too vague. No one here knows what you are interested in smelling. What specific sort of notes do you want? All the aroma chemicals you mentioned are extremely versatile. Delta carene is mango...
  52. Replies
    5
    Views
    794

    Re: Go-to lemon and orange ACs

    It all depends on the specifics of the project. There are simply too many aroma chemicals which have citrus notes to list.
  53. Re: Oakmoss based perfume - heart top notes?

    Spearming, peppermint, balsamite, menthol, menthone, lavender, lavandin. Tuberose, methyl salicylate, methyl benzoate. Geranium. Why not make it into a fougere with benzyl or amyl salicylate, anise,...
  54. Replies
    6
    Views
    823

    Re: Nootkatone usage and dilution?

    Considering its extremely high price, it's strength is a bit weak, yes. The first time I smelled it I was underwhelmed myself. But its essential to the odor of grapefruit, and so necessary in a...
  55. Replies
    8
    Views
    967

    Re: Using mimosa in perfume

    Absolutes, by definition, are soluble in ethanol to more or less of a degree. Some companies set the standard at 5%, others 10%. It depends where your mimosa is from. NO large company will sell...
  56. Replies
    11
    Views
    1,124

    Re: What can be used with saffron

    Rose abs/oil has already been mentioned. Why not jasmine. Tobacco can be quite floral. Osmanthus itself if very leathery, and, of course, floral, It could play a role. Lavender. Beeswax.

    Then of...
  57. Replies
    34
    Views
    2,537

    Re: Pine/juniper fixative

    No, I got a sample from John D. Walsh. I believe they still retail it.
  58. Replies
    34
    Views
    2,537

    Re: Pine/juniper fixative

    Don't expect such molecules to magically 'hold onto' one another. Think about how to extend it with other similar notes. Iso E Super could play a role to appeal to the woody, cedar like facets of...
  59. Replies
    34
    Views
    2,537

    Re: Pine/juniper fixative

    Love the idea of anything pine or juniper like with labdanum. No one mentioned Cypress abs. Extremely expensive but wonderful. Shares facets with both Oakmoss and Fir Balsam.
  60. Replies
    11
    Views
    1,124

    Re: What can be used with saffron

    What sort of specific end do you want to achieve? Why don't you suggest what kind of effect you're looking to get with the saffron. It may bring more specific answers.
  61. Replies
    5
    Views
    1,981

    Re: SCCS opinion on BMHCA (lilial)

    Reformulation has been many years in the making. Certain large houses banned the in house use of (or limited its use to, say, 2% or less) lilial years ago. Of course it remains problematic for all...
  62. Replies
    12
    Views
    1,477

    Re: Fragrances based on Cypriol

    Pretty much every single fragrance marketed as containing "oud" contain nothing of the sort. You can almost always find cypriol, though. It is one of the materials almost indispensable for marketing...
  63. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Please excuse my ignorant reading of your post. I thought, at first, that you were referring to my intent in creating this survey in the first place. Shame on me for not paying attention to what I...
  64. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Like I said, originally I went interviewing sales people to try to prove that a more knowledgeable sales person could sell more fragrances. This would then be used to justify why brands need to spend...
  65. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    It truly is astounding. I mean high end stores, fragrance costing hundreds of dollars (pounds) and they don't even have the basic information. I had a very similar experience at Le Labo in Paris'...
  66. Re: Killiannials - Thats Killian for millennials...

    14 to 40 is on the cheap side, but 80 dollars a bottle is high enough to not exclude any but the most expensive raw materials. Even the floral absolutes which cost several thousand a kilo (rose,...
  67. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    No offense taken.

    But, in all seriousness,do you, as a consumer, want to constantly be lied to about the products you buy? Without knowing you are being lied to? Wouldn't you much rather discover...
  68. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Thank you for the well wishes. Again, I am not sure shaving is an appropriate comparison as most men would consider it a necessity to shave. Coffee comes to mind, or tea; and, again, in these domains...
  69. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Unfortunately, no. This is why there is so little brand identity when it comes to the fragrances. Different materials and different perfumers from the large companies. Each flanker of a major success...
  70. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    This

    Ah, yes. I should have been more specific. I think it is clear that the majority of fragrances are purchased by a minority of consumers. I think it is probably also clear that people who...
  71. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    I don't see why it wouldn't. I completely agree that perfume is a luxury object; I am extremely privileged to indulge in this expensive habit of mine while there are others in different parts of the...
  72. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    It is generally true in sales that majority of the purchases come from a minority of people; this is sometimes called the 80/20 rule. It is also true that fine fragrance in general doesn't represent...
  73. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Thank you!
  74. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Its true that most know little; but the few buyers who know quite a lot do the majority of the purchasing. Perhaps I'm just polemic and disappointed with the way sales is conducted in general; but,...
  75. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    There are several differences, I think. People generally purchase only one car, not many. Given that the majority of fragrances are purchased by a minority of users (this is true of sales in...
  76. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    I think I should make this the last personal thanks! Haha. Otherwise I will just end up repeating myself over and over!
  77. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Thanks!
  78. Replies
    9
    Views
    627

    Re: Grand Musée du Parfum

    Its a real pity that! Was quite a nice space. But, perhaps over budget makes sense. It was on quite a ritzy street -- right across Baccarat if I remember correctly.
  79. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    Re: 'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Will do when all is done. Thank you!
  80. Replies
    9
    Views
    627

    Re: Grand Musée du Parfum

    I was there in march or february of this year. So, as of march, it was not. As to whether or not it is now, I can't say.
  81. Replies
    9
    Views
    627

    Re: Grand Musée du Parfum

    I have been there several times! Its definitely worth a visit; and not expensive, if I remember. Something like 9 euros for students and 15 for regular admissions. I happen to have met someone who...
  82. Replies
    62
    Views
    2,411

    'Fragrance Knowledge'

    Hey Basenotes,

    For the past few weekends I have been interviewing sales associates about their fragrance knowledge and sales volume in different department stores for a class I am taking. Turns...
  83. Replies
    10
    Views
    1,146

    Re: Eucalyptus accord

    Eucalyptol is the main constituent of eucalyptus globulus (not citridora) essential oil. I don't think this oil was used in the fragrance; though I could be wrong, of course. I do know the formula...
  84. Replies
    10
    Views
    1,146

    Re: Eucalyptus accord

    This baby of IFF is an expensive formula. Even with a GC, it would be very hard to reproduce given the high content of natural absolutes. A cursory GC like from PA probably wouldn’t aid too much for...
  85. Replies
    10
    Views
    1,146

    Re: Eucalyptus accord

    The fragrance contains a quite impressive amount of tuberose absolute, too! It’s an expressive formula. Tuberose naturally contains ‘minty’ compounds. This is my best guess as to where the eucalyptus...
  86. Replies
    49
    Views
    5,137

    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    Please also keep in mind that Kephalis is a Givaudan material (I think), while Fierce is is made by IFF. I have no idea if the material is used in the fragrance, it just smells like it is (to me)....
  87. Replies
    49
    Views
    5,137

    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    I’m not entirely sure how to answer your question. To me it is a material which is quite woody, ambery, and wet, also smelling a bit like paint. It’s also slightly green, and smoky. My impressions...
  88. Replies
    49
    Views
    5,137

    Re: Abercrombie Fierce formula?

    I’ve always thought the fragrance smells heavily of Kephalis.
  89. Replies
    9
    Views
    1,230

    Re: grams and drops

    I have the contrary opinion. Counting drops is not only more inaccurate, but I find it hopelessly mundane -- and much more tedious than simply weighing something.
  90. Replies
    9
    Views
    1,180

    Re: Newb question on note classification

    This is really a subjective thing. Its much better to know how long something lasts in hours or minutes than it is to set a cutoff. Paul mentioned 15, 2 and 2; I have my own standard which is a bit...
  91. Replies
    77
    Views
    9,577

    Re: The Allure of Aventus

    So they did increase the price! I went to send something there, went on to the website, and saw the price was 200 a few months ago. Then I thought I remembered it wrong. Its a pity that. Think I may...
  92. Replies
    77
    Views
    9,577

    Re: The Allure of Aventus

    I am not sure this is entirely the case. I don't know what kind of machines PA is using, and I am certainly not a GC expert, but I would hazard a guess that the machines PA uses and the machines...
  93. Replies
    77
    Views
    9,577

    Re: The Allure of Aventus

    He seems to be just a troll; better ignored.
  94. Re: Alpha and beta ionone: accords to understand them better

    I don't know about this. Certainly 30 ingredients in a fragrance is very standard -- some are less, of course. Big companies tend to max out around 50, because of the manufacturing costs involved,...
  95. Re: In dire need of help finding a supplier of accurate/realistic scents, mostly floral

    This is not an easy to answer question. What effect are you trying to achieve? TGSC sells mostly aroma chemicals and some natural extracts. The other two companies sell almost exclusively essential...
  96. Replies
    9
    Views
    971

    Re: Need Help Adjusting Recipe

    Three of the fragrances you mention have strong fougere elements for which you will find the coumarin extremely useful. What I would suggest first, before you blindly go blending, is spending some...
  97. Thread: alchol

    by George Tedder
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,073

    Re: alchol

    This is doubtful. Unfortunately sickening is what is trendy at the moment — almost all PR frags, for example. In any event, I think the saddest thing is it doesn’t pay hommage to the master piece for...
  98. Re: solubility of osmanthus absolute in DPG

    Try ethanol. I have a completely clear 5% solution here which has been fine for several months. I would imagine that osmanthus comes with some waxes as well as acids (like steric acid) but I could be...
  99. Thread: alchol

    by George Tedder
    Replies
    13
    Views
    1,073

    Re: alchol

    No wonder that fragrance is literally an explosion. Pity its so terrible ...
  100. Re: What is the difference between Hedione HC - Bedoukian and Hedione HC- Firmenich

    Bedoukian is an extremely trusted supplier. I would imagine that the best HC quality comes from Firmenich, as they are the pioneers of the material. As to whether your material is the genuine...
Results 1 to 100 of 410
Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4



Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000