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  1. Replies
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    Hey Paul. I haven't ever smelled the Givaudan quality (Jasmopyrane) but I have a sample of Jasmal (which is supposedly the same) which is radically different from Jasmolactone. Much more fatty than...
  2. Re: Help Creating A Similar Scent to Simple Truths Red Sandalwood Vanilla Beard Oil Using Essential

    This is the craziest part. Basically coriander, linalool, and magnolia leaf are the same then (in a mix at least, it doesn’t matter which one you use).
  3. Re: Help Creating A Similar Scent to Simple Truths Red Sandalwood Vanilla Beard Oil Using Essential

    Pray tell, what "science" says anything as laughable as this? What does that even mean? I made no such empirical claim. You did. I didn't say it was more "potent" (are we talking about odor...
  4. Re: Help Creating A Similar Scent to Simple Truths Red Sandalwood Vanilla Beard Oil Using Essential

    On the contrary Parker, it would make quite a huge difference. Vanilla CO2 is powerful and far more faceted than vanillin. Less than one percent (maybe around 0.2%) has a distinct effect on the...
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    Undecalactone gamma smells very very different.

    Jasmine lactone, or cis jasmone lactone could both be used.
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    Yes indeed. This is what I find slightly perplexing, as the fragrance smells exceedingly natural to me. I wonder what the interest in employing a Tuberose base would be
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    This is also quite interesting. Any possibility in being more specific?
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    That is interesting.

    Sometime mentioned to me that this fragrance contains quite a large concentration of natural tuberose absolute. And the F. Malle sales associates certainly say as much when...
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    Re: tuberose and iris

    Out of curiosity, where did you hear this?
  10. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    Very well said.

    Also, do you mean perfumum? I didn’t see that he blocked Timon.
  11. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    Excellent, good man. Keep us abreast. This is what makes this forum the most beautiful part of basenotes.
  12. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    Bill, you flatter me!

    Perhaps I haven't experimented with the material enough! If you have some creations you are particularly fond of -- with appleide in one and edenolide in the other -- I would...
  13. Re: IFF Captive, until now, available to us at PSH! (Edenolide)

    I don't want to interject myself into this post to cast aspersions on other's characters.

    That said, I quite disagree with Bill; I find Edenolide really isn't all that much nicer than appelide...
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    Re: Seeking that "roundness"

    There is no secret. And there are no special accords. Most of what you find in more mass market scents (think P. Rbane) is loud. That is the trend. And there is no short supply of fragrances like...
  15. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    Thanks for the insights. This fragrance is really gorgeous. Haven't tried recreating it myself, but I think it is worth a shot. Really beautiful.

    Back to the substitutes for lyral, I assume...
  16. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    Honestly lavender doesn’t last last past wet in a wash. So I don’t know what you’re reacting to — but it isn’t lavender oil (or a synthetic recreation thereof).
  17. Re: Lyral Replacer formula - Let's talk about our choices and formulas

    Paul,

    Do you know how old the No.19 formula is? It’s interesting you mention lyral — because I’ve heard of that being used along with massive quantities of Egyptian jasmine. But I’ve never...
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    Re: An formula from 1963

    To be a little bit pedantic; this is a bit of a misrepresentation of the size of the pallet back then. Smaller than the modern one, but not nearly by that much. And todayís pallet is really just...
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    Re: An formula from 1963

    Have a look here: http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/demos/dm1001821.html
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    Re: An formula from 1963

    This is an old base. Any real good carnation base will do. Difficult to do with today's IFRA, but still possible. Look for some carnation formulas.
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    Re: An formula from 1963

    I'd bet my bottom dollar you are right. Differing proportions, but all the essential elements are there.
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    Re: Roja Dove's Blending Method

    I am curious, but, if you find RD perfumes to be mediocre, then what brands exactly represent quality for you? I can think of none, really, who use raw materials superior to Dove. F. Malle, perhaps,...
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    Re: How to use Cashmeran?

    Asking yourself the question in this way seems, to me, problematic.

    What do you want to achieve? What kind of perfume do you want? What odor family? What other materials are you using, at what...
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    Re: Captives and the GC-MS

    Large fragrance houses often know what other house's captives look like. Sometimes they obtain samples at symposiums and can generate a MS from them. Sometimes they have embarked on similar research...
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    Re: Captives and the GC-MS

    No. The retention time is not a fixed quantity for any given molecule. It depends on the programming of the machine (how long the run is, the temperature, etc) and the type and length of column used....
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    Re: Question about Diffusiveness

    I donít know if this is an entirely coherent way of visualizing a perfume formula, as any material could potentially ďchange the characterĒ of a fragrance depending on its dosage and the other...
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    Re: Question about Diffusiveness

    This issue has been addressed many times. But it is worth reiterating this point: Yes, hedione aids in increasing diffusion, but it isn't a simple fix all material; An equilibrium must be reached...
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    Re: How to work with Galaoxolide?

    To be fair there is no way to know that it was the Galaoxlide which was diluted in DPG. GC results are very, very rarely "exact" -- unless significant amounts of time/analysis (with multiple types of...
  29. Re: A very nice comparative GC analysis of Cedarwoods: Texas, Virginia, Chinese, Atlas, and Himalay

    Very cool, thanks for the heads up!
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    Re: Rose accord

    Rose oxide is extremely cheap. The same price essentially as doremox; and the laevo, which is far more costly than the racemic, is still very cost effective for fine fragrance given the dosage....
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    Re: How to work with Galaoxolide?

    In commercial labs this material is kept in a hot box (at 40C). Try heating it up (gently), and cutting the tip off a plastic pipette to make the opening wider. This way you can easily work with the...
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    Re: Long lasting buttery creamy note

    Best not to take your substantives from the good scents website. They are very, very often completely inaccurate.

    Try vanillin, maltol, a trace of javanol or a bit more of osyrol, acetyl...
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    Re: A little help

    Please do not feel depreciated. But your feelings about your raw materials are your own; people cannot provide them for you. To make a well balanced creation takes practice, but it also takes a...
  34. Re: have you smelled the new Armani perfumes? do they have access to materials we don't have?

    Also, if you dilute the concentrate quickly, or you compound fragrances which are already diluted in ethanol -- this is unlikely to happen. The reaction proceeds very slowly in the presence of water...
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    Re: Recreating Bleu De Chanel

    When trying to recreate any fragrance I think first and foremost you should ask yourself the question what family does the perfume belong to?

    What would you say of Bleu? Is is floral? Is it...
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    Re: A little help

    You are not likely to find people here giving you formulas. That is your job. That is how you learn, buy mixing (and failing). Learning what does and does not appeal. Imagine saying to a painter that...
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    Re: Hedione Hedione Hedione

    For sure he uses cassis base, because I am quite confident the new rose et cuir smells of it. I think it was used in one of his garden collections as well -- though I am not positive.
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    This is an excellent suggestion. Iíve actually seen it in an oakmoss replacer. Bravo.
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    Re: Mossy chemicals

    To be honest I don't find oakmoss at all minty, but I would imagine a blend between the two could be taken in many directions. Either masculine or feminine. Indeed these sorts of combinations are...
  40. Thread: Captives

    by George Tedder
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    Re: Captives

    It certainly isnít what you wrote. So I donít see how thatís obvious. But I trust you on your intentions.
  41. Thread: Captives

    by George Tedder
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    Re: Captives

    This is not true whatsoever. Some of the captives accord with trends. New fruits or leathers, for example, but this is not always the case. Captives are chosen for a multitude of reasons (to replace...
  42. Re: Nooby: Greenish Home-Frag/Roomspray attempt with limited ACs

    I must say this is a rather strange list. Humulene and Carophyllene are basically the same thing. Why have you named them separately? This along with beta pinene, phytol, farnesol and farnesene are...
  43. Re: What is the highest use of peach aldehyde?

    I would ignore the EWG. Very reactionary and fear mongering based; not written or vetted by professionals in the fields they write about.
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    Re: Lavender extension

    Yea. Iím mean to round it out top to bottom.
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    Re: Lavender extension

    This is a strange chemical for me. I always fail to recognize it as sometimes it smells strongly orange blossom and others strongly lavender. I would try to extend lavender with coumarin as Paul...
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    Re: Incorrectly named "Aldehydes"

    No prob. Thanks for the chart !
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    Re: Incorrectly named "Aldehydes"

    Yes. Look at the proper chemical name (from the MSDS, not a product name given by the supplier). If it ends in "al," or "aldehyde" the answer is yes.
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    Re: Incorrectly named "Aldehydes"

    Just a heads up: aldehyde C18 is repeated twice. The first notion is indeed correct
  49. Re: What is the highest use of peach aldehyde?

    Donít do it cause we said so! Try different levels; 0.1, 0.2, 0.5, 1, etc. And report back; Iíd like to know!
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    Re: Gardenia headspace analysis

    Thatís extremely expensive. I have smelled ďjasmine lactoneĒ from IFF, but I donít actually know what itís proper CAS is. Either way itís more expensive than ďJasmolactone;Ē but not over 2000...
  51. Re: What is the highest use of peach aldehyde?

    C14 ďAldehydeĒ is actually a lactone. But lactones are often quite as powerful even in small doses. Barring the material being an Eu allergen, Bio accumulative, IFRA, etc, for which there is...
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    Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    They are not unrelated at all. Indeed they are quite similar for two distinct perfumes. This is precisely what I am saying about Brut. V1, and V2 are to be considered related but DIFFERENT perfumes.
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    Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    We really have differing intuitions, I suppose. I am certainly not prepared to say that a digital keyboard could not do as well as a grand piano. Putting aside the somewhat unfair 1:1 equation of a...
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    Re: Review: Auram Tonkin 4768-6/D

    I must chime in because I admit I cannot understand this sentiment. For sure they will be different. But why less amazing? I find iso Eugenol really no different than methyl diantilis; not in terms...
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    Re: Thiomenthone

    Onion is a good descriptor. Can smell blackcurrant at differing dilutions. Strongest sulfur descriptor for me is grapefruit. Use at a low dilution. 1% max. More likely 0.1%. Try also diluting in...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    There is no big deal. The problem is ignorance, as I said. Being ignorant is natural. It takes a lifetime to dispel and eschew just a small amount of it. What is detestable is people flaunting...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    You are literally (probably) the only forum member who believes anything remotely close to this. Namely that you believe others think that. Bit funny really.
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Then you will know you we’re dead wrong.



    No big deal. The problem is ignorance. And people don’t quit because of disagreements. They quit because they are unhappy. Your questions speak...
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    Re: Taking my leave

    That is a lie. It was you who suggested that. TGSC doesn’t post on basenotes, you do. And it is on you to double check, not on anyone else.
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    Re: Taking my leave

    Sometimes I think you do not read what others say, nor do you remember what you write. There is 0 contention, zero, with you questioning why you do something. You should. The problem is you assert...
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    Re: Felix Cola Amber Base # 3

    Best to replace musk ambrette with musk ketone rather than galaxolide, which is much further away.
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    Re: Taking my leave

    That isn’t strictly true. ISIPCA and ESP offer perfumery degrees, and every large company has an extensive training system. There is strict hierarchy and a graduated system which is essentially...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Taking my leave

    This discussion is mostly nonsense. And the case is moot. Paul has his own reasons for his choices. If you feel targeted, rise above with your actions; those always speak louder than words, as we all...
  64. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Chemicals are sold under different names because often times the proprietary manufacturer has trademarked their name, as is the case with Hedione, or AmberXtreme. Once something falls out of patent,...
  65. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    Itís not really uncertain as all you have to do is obtain samples and smell. They are not the same products
  66. Re: Perfumers world "fluorescence," materials are actually professional grade materials!

    The synonyms section is notoriously unreliable. As are their data about substantively.
  67. Re: A Couple of Questions on an Amber Accord

    Why not some opoponax? Other balsams? Also for a traditional amber youíre missing some patchouli, maybe even some vetiver. These resinous notes are always very heavy, so you want to pepper the top...
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    Re: The Smell of Communism

    I suppose if Iím a communist, I smell real damn bad
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    Re: IFF Lily Base Replace

    Paul actually posted about this several years ago. Here is a link to the relevant forum:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/411965-Lyral-amp-Lilial-alternate-(replacer)-bases-per-application

    For...
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    This is all true; for the most part. For me the acťtals often smell less strong. Or rather Iím basing that off the few Iíve smelled. But again, this is exactly what one doesnít want to have happen...
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    Of course. In commercial labs things are mixed very, very thoroughly. But people here are talking about waiting literally months before evaluation. And this is what I am saying is really never done. ...
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    I have quite the opposite opinion. Feel it hardly makes a difference. One day, or two; max. Don’t notice much after that.

    It has nothing to do with profits. I am simply saying it’s not what most...
  73. Replies
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    SO many people on here advocate for letting the perfume sit for months before evaluation. I have always found this silly. With extremely powerful materials (think sulfur chemicals) sometimes a few...
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    The pyramid of notes is almost always marketing hype. It cannot hurt to have a look, but most likely the information you gather from it will be cursory. You allude to chemicals and this is correct. A...
  75. Re: Help fill in the olfactory study blanks - Jean Carles

    I haven't the faintest clue why osmanthus is in the same category as blackcurrant. This flower is much more flower than it is fruity (if you are contrasting it with other fruit notes). Anyways, here...
  76. Re: Help fill in the olfactory study blanks - Jean Carles

    It makes far more sense to put peru balsam with the balsamic notes (as he did) if you are separating out these from other abmery notes. And this about raw material's study. Why include peach natural...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    Sorry but I haven't the faintest clue what you mean by this.

    You mention caryophyllene. This terpene is found in so many essential oils. Olfactively it is an interesting way to distinguish...
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    Re: Problem with aldehyde C-12 MNA

    The original Chanel No.5 had some 1% of total aldehyes, with Laruic, being considered generally the most soapy, dosed the highest. MNA was somewhere close to 0.2%, and neither of them stick out. It...
  79. Replies
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    Copying can be a way to learn. All great artists do that. You learn from the work of other's. It does seem like relying on a machine is cheating a bit. But, using your nose to try and reproduce...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    Any good house has whole teams dedicated to this. And all significant market products are analysed. Fine fragrances, candles, shampoos, shower gels, laundry detergents, etc etc.

    Sometimes the nose...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Reverse engineering a perfume (cloning)

    Large companies have large teams and many, many machines dedicated to this purpose. With technology the way it is these days, it is actually an easy endeavor for a trained analyst who is well trained...
  82. Replies
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    Re: List of safest synthetics?

    This is an extremely over simplistic way of looking at the issue. The best safety data comes from organizations like IFRA and governmental/intergovernmental panels such as that in the EU. Follow IFRA...
  83. Re: Orris Butter/Concrete smells like Carrot Seed - Adulterated? Any insight?

    Orris by itself to me doesnít smell good either. I much prefer the irones and ioniens to the actual butter which is very very waxy. But donít judge quality by hedonics.

    It should not smell of...
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    Has nothing to do with naturals versus synthetics. Bergamot contains linalyl Acetate. If either of these products was used (natural bergamot or synthetic linalyl Acetate) you are liable to obtain...
  85. Replies
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    Re: BHT usage percentage

    To be a little pedantic, itís not exactly a preservative per se. BHT does help to preserve the quality of a perfume, but by preventing oxidation, and not microbial growth which is what is important...
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    Re: Banned / restricted list

    All relevant information can be found on IFRA's website.
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    Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    As I said, generally one divides by the vapor pressure. There may be other methods. I havenít used them. Best to make up a sample and adjust with the nose.
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    Re: Wormwood and Wisteria

    I am not aware of any commercially available wisteria extracts. To what are you referring?
  89. Replies
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    Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    I don't know how this answers your initial question of " how do you interpret GC-FID (Flame Ionization Detectors) percentages in the headspace?." Nor does it answer "Is this actual molecules already...
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    Re: Disposing of failed experiments.

    I mean, if they are really small samples you could probably flush them down the toilet. But obviously that isn't recommended.

    Just take them to wherever your local waste management company would...
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    Re: GC/MS and GC-FID interpretation method?

    An MS doesnít give quantitative results. It only identifies compounds. FID does not give qualitative results, it only quantifies compounds ó the percentage of which is proportional to the peak area...
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    Re: Making Fougere

    I mean ... it's really just the one. But, sure, I think for the ratio of price to quality Penhaligons is not so bad. Of course things have been cheapened and changed since they were bought.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Making Fougere

    I’m not entirely certain what you mean by this question. It’s a bit like saying what’s my philosophy behind making coffee. That requires a few basic things, like roasted beans and water. Maybe some...
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    Re: Making Fougere

    No one advocated for not sharing; that is what this place is about. You ought to calm down, sir.
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    Re: Making Fougere

    To be fair, Bill, this time he didn't post a link. It would seem that embedding videos within Basenotes should be fine, if that is some sort of feature that they offer. If it is not, perhaps it is...
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    Re: Making Fougere

    What a ridiculously nasty thing to accuse other people of.

    I concur with you that, having traversed this forum for several years, that rules are clearly NOT always enforced equitably. But these...
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    Re: First perfume - what to add?

    These three notes that you mention are all very toppy. To be a proper fragrance you need notes with more longevity. You should specify what sort of end you want to work toward; or you will very...
  98. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Please excuse me, that was simply a typo.




    And I told you there is no difference in "construction." There are trends, and tastes, and banning of materials, and all else that has been alluded...
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    Re: Clove bud oil - Farnesol

    You can find the information in the Annexes. See here: https://ifrafragrance.org/self-regulation/standards-guidance
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    Re: Molecules in candles

    Diethyl phthalate, isopropyl myristate.
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