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  1. Thread: What's new?

    by Xplo
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    18
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    761

    What's new?

    Hey everyone, I drifted away from perfumery a few years ago and haven't been keeping up. The other day it occurred to me to wonder what's going on in this space.

    What's hot right now, in terms of...
  2. Re: Interested in trying Mysore Sandalwood oil as a fragrance, what to expect?

    Well, I wouldn't put it that way. Supposedly older vintages are far superior to anything available today, both because of their age, and the quality of wood they were distilled from. But in terms of...
  3. Replies
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    Re: ...and MORE bl***y woody amber

    No, I have some Iso E Super and it has a fairly strong scent.
  4. Thread: leather scents

    by Xplo
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    Re: leather scents Birch types

    Birch tar smells like liquid smoke and has little or none of birch's wintergreen smell.
  5. Replies
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    Re: Pulse points: bogus?

    As far as I'm concerned, the pulse points thing is bogus. A couple of degrees won't make any perceptible difference at all, and if you want the sillage to spread when you wave your arms around, there...
  6. Thread: Coriander Leaves

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    2,331

    Re: Coriander Leaves

    Incidentally, mandarin aldehyde has a pretty strong resemblance to cilantro at high concentrations. Of course, since probably no one is going to advertise their fragrance as containing mandarin...
  7. Thread: Coriander Leaves

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    2,331

    Re: Coriander Leaves

    I realize you've already commented on it, but I find the smell of cilantro in Live Jazz to be unmistakable.. so much so that even though I appreciate its freshness, I can't wear it. The citrus and...
  8. Replies
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    Re: Cologne for a newbie Emo

    Emo, eh? You'll want something whiny, shallow, and pretentious...
  9. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Do you know that synthetics are in fragrances?

    Vetiver's pretty cheap, at least as fine perfumery ingredients go.
  10. Replies
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    3,714

    Re: Closest natural civet substitute?

    I'm not familiar with Hyraceum except by description, so I can't say how well it resembles civet.

    To me, civet is strongly indolic, so jasmine would probably come closest.. but it's not really...
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    Re: Has anyone tried Oak Moss extrait solo?

    I agree, more or less, with your analysis, but not your skepticism. Oakmoss distills the essence of an ancient forest; to smell it by itself is to be transported there. It is surely no less useful...
  12. Re: Czech & Speake No. 88 - my view (caution: lotta unncessary Rambling in here)

    To me, 88's not a "rose" scent at all. I mean, sure, there's rose in there, but the scent is neither defined by nor focused on it. I found the jasmine/frangipani/whatever it is, and the prickly...
  13. Re: For my fellow science nerds: Black Aoud is an isomer of Voleur De Roses

    I feel VdR and BA are pretty similar, even if the BA is a little heavier. They're very much the same kind of scent.
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    Re: Sean John - I Am King ~ New Fragrance

    Sounds like too-sweet, too-fruity garbage to me.
  15. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    I've been using choya loban (destructively distilled benzoin). It has a sharpness that I generally prefer to the liquid smoke scent of birch tar.
  16. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    Why not give away the details? Do you suppose you're going to patent your blend? Or market it to end users who can somehow reproduce your work for cheaper, even though you'd presumably be buying your...
  17. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    I have synthetic ouds from Firmenich and Givaudan.

    The Firmenich is the only one that smells like oud, IMO. It lacks the complexity and body (and the smoke, and the barnyard) of the real thing,...
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    Re: What does Amber smell like?

    I've heard this too, but I have serious doubts about its veracity. Near as I can tell, they smell nothing alike, except possibly in having an animalic note. I suspect the amber/ambergris confusion...
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    Re: What does Amber smell like?

    Wow, lots of confusion in this thread.

    There are three things called "amber" associated with perfumery.

    The first is ambergris. It's produced in whale stomachs, possibly to protect them from...
  20. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    If you're asking because you haven't tried it, I encourage you to order a sample. Their oud samples are extremely tiny (about a drop, IIRC), but the oil is so potent that this is more than enough for...
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    Re: Sandalwood - an epistemological crisis

    They really don't. Synthetic sandalwood odorants do no more than resemble sandalwood's odor. They lack true sandalwood's richness, warmth, and complexity. This is not a subtle difference, only...
  22. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    I have seen many claims made for rare oils, particularly sandalwood, oud, and lotus, that they can elevate your spiritual state, or alter your consciousness, or act as an aphrodesiac. I don't believe...
  23. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    My experience with the ouds I received from Agarscents has been disappointing. The "Dhen Oudh Burma Super" starts with cowshit and ends with the bitter reek of a recent fire, and has little else to...
  24. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    I took a chance on Agarscents Bazaar, ordering the Burma Super. My hope was not to get a great oud, but a fair one, something I could use for blending. It definitely has a "barnyard" character,...
  25. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    What I expect is to be able to sample different ouds without paying an arm and a leg for them, before I decide to buy into one. I realize the stuff is ridiculously expensive, especially the higher...
  26. Replies
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    Re: Agarwood (oud) oil!

    This is strange news to me; until now I have only heard positive reports about Ham Firl and his products. I've actually been pondering buying from him, to expand my experience with oud.

    It seems...
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    Re: IFRA seeks to destroy citrus perfumes

    More likely they'd just lie about it, or some up with some kind of marketing angle that lets them pretend they use naturals without explicitly claiming it, and the vast majority of end users wouldn't...
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    Re: Ordered a bunch of samples, mostly rose-related

    The samples have started arriving.

    Guerlain Heritage:

    My first test is the Heritage.. and, since they're so often equated, I've got Zino on the other arm. They are very similar, but there are...
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    Ordered a bunch of samples, mostly rose-related

    Unlike probably most of the people here, I'm more interested in making perfume than collecting it. Still, I'm certainly no master perfumer yet.. and even if I'm making my own stuff, it never hurts to...
  30. Replies
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    Re: a good synthetic lavender

    You may like dihydromyrcenol. Described (pretty accurately, IMO) as "lavender oil spilled on an aluminum counter".
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    Re: Thoughts on some woody synthetics

    Never heard of trimofix and haven't had experience with cedramber yet (though I've heard that ambroxan is a much better synthetic ambergris). I really wish I had a perfumery chemical supply house...
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    Thoughts on some woody synthetics

    I've just received some chemicals in the mail, and I thought you guys might be interested in my impressions, since online descriptions of chemical smells are often pretty lacking. I'd normally post...
  33. Re: I get to synthesize some scent molecules in a few weeks!

    Musks don't necessarily have a strong smell in a bottle by themselves, IME, and sometimes people are anosmic to them. I don't have any experience with musk ketones specifically, so they could differ,...
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    Re: New diy black rose frag

    Extremely dilute. Phew!
  35. Replies
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    Re: New diy black rose frag

    Sounds a lot like what I'm working on.. though our inspirations differ.
  36. Re: Looking for light almost non-existent fresh scent...

    The obvious solution here is to decant some distilled water into a sprayer, and wear that. The scent is entirely undetectable, yet brings with it a freshness that is absolutely natural, and is...
  37. Replies
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    Re: Absolutes vs Oils and more...

    IME, the CO2 extractions are usually the most faithful to the original material, and the EOs the least.. of course, this is untrue for some oils (notably citrus). Whether you want something more...
  38. Thread: Tiny proportions

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    1,514

    Re: Tiny proportions

    For what it's worth, I typically buy my ingredients in the smallest quantities available, and there have been very few I've needed to get more of over the last couple of years. I really haven't spent...
  39. Thread: Tiny proportions

    by Xplo
    Replies
    21
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    1,514

    Re: Tiny proportions

    You have fun with that.
  40. Thread: Tiny proportions

    by Xplo
    Replies
    21
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    1,514

    Re: Tiny proportions

    You're overthinking this.

    Odds are, many of your ingredients will be used at or near full strength in your blend, and they're going to match or overwhelm (by weight/volume) the amount of any...
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    Re: Substitutes for Difficult Notes- Grapefruit

    It's a grapefruit problem.. there's a chemical in it that turns bad on the skin.
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    Re: creating a crystalline sugary note

    Maltol? Smells just like cotton candy.
  43. Re: Worst name for a frag store ever: "Cigarettes and Perfume"

    Sounds very French to me.
  44. Thread: Red wine?

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    1,190

    Re: Red wine?

    Camphor? Interesting. I've never heard of Jessate before, nor know where I could acquire some in small quantities, nor - from its description - know why I would want to, at least for this project....
  45. Replies
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    Re: Which is a great rose scent?

    Not really. Rosewood is much closer to lavender than it is to rose, though I find it less sweet, less camphoraceous, and woodier than lavender.
  46. Re: Some scent opinions & Identifying notes. You sure that's tonka bean you're smelli

    Live Jazz is the lemony one, right? I remember liking the idea for a summer scent, but not being able to get past the cilantro.. I kept imagining Mexican food!

    As far as knowing what the notes are...
  47. Replies
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    Re: The hidden beauty, oakmoss.

    The same can probably be said of people jamming out on bass instruments.. and probably for exactly the same reasons.
  48. Replies
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    Re: The hidden beauty, oakmoss.

    Corrected.
  49. Thread: Cancer?

    by Xplo
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    2,840

    Re: Cancer?

    Indeed, all terrorism should be state sponsored.
  50. Thread: Red wine?

    by Xplo
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    Re: Red wine?

    I have methyl anthranilate, but none of the information I've found online mentions it as a constituent of wine, and I wasn't really able to detect it in any of the real wine I was smelling for...
  51. Thread: Red wine?

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    1,190

    Re: Red wine?

    I'm not well-versed in chemistry at all; I merely touched on the very basics in my 8th year of school. The only familiarity I have with these chemicals is from perfumery.

    So, does no one know what...
  52. Thread: Red wine?

    by Xplo
    Replies
    18
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    1,190

    Re: Red wine?

    Qualified for what?

    I don't have much of a chemistry background, no. Why do you ask?
  53. Re: Mountain Mist - A house oil blend I want to share with you

    Any "perfume oil" sold to be worn as-is will already be diluted in carrier oil. Diluting it further in alcohol would make it weak indeed.
  54. Thread: Red wine?

    by Xplo
    Replies
    18
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    1,190

    Red wine?

    A while back I tried to create a passable red wine accord. I never quite hit the mark, though I did manage to find the right ballpark (mixing sports metaphors, shame on me). However, there was always...
  55. Replies
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    Re: Green, Blue, or Amber vials?

    Much more difficult.

    As long as you're not storing your ingredients in open sunlight - and why would you be? - it doesn't really matter what color you get. A little indirect sun isn't going to do...
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    Re: How Many Sprays For Armani Code

    As many as possible.
  57. Replies
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    Re: How could I get this developed?

    For a personal scent, there are a number of small niche and amateur perfumers willing to do custom work. Find one whose other work you like and talk to them about it. For blending such a complex...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Domenico Caraceni at Luckyscent online now

    It's true that frankincense isn't the heavy syrup that sandalwood or vetiver are, but I certainly wouldn't call it fleeting; with adequate fixation it can last quite a long time.
  59. Replies
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    Re: In Defense of Sales Assistants

    I'm on the side of the writer here. Okay, so his perception of perfume as the exclusive adornment of whores is a bit appalling.. but is it any more appalling than the unrestrained excesses of perfume...
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    Re: NEW Canali Black Diamond edp homme has arrived!

    Perfume marketing sickens me too. "The rare ingredient - Black Leather accord", as if there were anything particularly rare about black leather, or leather accords, or that black leather necessarily...
  61. Thread: Ultimate BLACK

    by Xplo
    Replies
    7
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    Re: Ultimate BLACK

    I'm still working on the "Zino killer" in my spare time, which I don't have a lot of.

    The super evil black ritual and deadly apocalypse fragrance is just an idea on my metaphorical shelf.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Would these be reusable?

    If you're just using them for blending experiments, any glass bottle should work fine for reuse. The caps/applicators will retain some scent, but if you use testing strips or something to smell from,...
  63. Replies
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    Re: cheap vs quailty fragrance oils

    They're not all-natural; a casual examination of their pricing and the notes present in some of their blends (some of which would be far too expensive, others impossible, and yet others likely...
  64. Re: Recs please! The very best FOs/EOs/Aromachemicals that smell like..

    SALT - Dunno, wish I did.

    SUGAR - You want maltol.

    METAL - I don't think the scent you describe - this ideal of a "silvery metal" - really exists. Can you name a real, physical object,...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Which one are the steps to become a perfumist?

    Here are the steps:

    1. buy smelly stuff
    2. make perfume with it

    Or did you mean as a career?
  66. Thread: Natural Musks?

    by Xplo
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    Re: Natural Musks?

    There are a number of botanical sources for musk lactones, the two best known being ambrette seed and angelica root, but none has a high enough concentration of musk to make them particularly useful...
  67. Re: Oils and Vodka will not bond.. oil just sits at the top??

    More than adequate for probably 99% of the ingredients you're ever likely to use.
  68. Replies
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    Re: Are prices of niche getting out of hand?

    It's all about conspicuous consumption, snobbery, and exclusivity. No use of natural ingredients available to any perfumer with a hint of conscience could justify such high prices for a commercial...
  69. Thread: Ultimate BLACK

    by Xplo
    Replies
    7
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    1,549

    Re: Ultimate BLACK

    I just hope I don't end up duplicating or approximating one of the other dark rose scents out there as I'm using a lot of the same notes. Then again, if I manage to come up with something that I like...
  70. Thread: Ultimate BLACK

    by Xplo
    Replies
    7
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    1,549

    Re: Ultimate BLACK

    No, you really don't.. it's fascinating, but also unpleasant. Just from smelling it, I can almost taste it in the back of my mouth, like oily charcoal. I wanted dark, yeah, but this is ridiculous ^^;;
  71. Thread: Ultimate BLACK

    by Xplo
    Replies
    7
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    1,549

    Ultimate BLACK

    So I've been working on a personal scent for a few years now, off and on. Aiming for something in the vein of Ungaro III, Zino, or (less so) Egoiste.. something dark and rosy. I think I may be...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Am I doing something wrong?

    Get Eden's ginger CO2. Very nice.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Easing my way into patchouli, need help!

    Everyone knows that if you ease your way into a swimming pool, it's a long, unpleasant ordeal before you're finally in. The right way to enter a pool is to jump in. Cowards freeze a thousand times, a...
  74. Thread: Leather

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    Re: Leather

    Don't hold your breath. I don't have as much time or money to devote to perfumery as I would like and I'm not likely to hit on a great leather anytime soon. (And even if I did, I'm not really looking...
  75. Thread: Leather

    by Xplo
    Replies
    13
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    1,090

    Re: Leather

    The short version is that the smell of leather comes from the chemicals used to process it and from any perfumes used to scent it, not from the leather itself which has little or no smell of its own....
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    Re: Skin Deep and mens fragrances rated

    IMO, IFRA guidelines are alarmist as well.



    It does seem wasteful to me to color a perfume whose color can't be seen anyway. Be that as it may, it's probably not healthy for you to live with...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Skin Deep and mens fragrances rated

    For any reasonable definition of "poison", fragrance contains none.
  78. Re: "Meow Mix" by Chanlder Burr--A Fresh Scoop of Civet, Anyone?

    As I understand it, civetone is actually a rather nice musk; the main stinkers in civet are indole (which smells a lot like the heavy bottom note of jasmine, although there's some cheesy/fecal...
  79. Re: How do you differentiate incense, smoke and tobacco?

    How do you not differentiate between these? Even where there is room for interpretation, they're three different things, with distinct smells.

    Of course, if you don't know what those smells are,...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Don't you hate SA's who wont leave you alone

    Pro tip: if you're going to insist that you can't change reality by thinking about it and that anyone who feels otherwise is mentally ill, it's probably not a good idea to reveal that you believe a...
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    Re: Old man and old lady scents

    Uh.

    The market's been flooded with "clean, fresh" scents since Acqua di Gio came out.
  82. Replies
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    Re: What the heck are they anyway?

    I disagree. The categories, and the archetypes that define them, are meaningful. To those who don't understand them due to lack of training or experience, they might be confusing or useless.. but if...
  83. Replies
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    Re: What the heck are they anyway?

    Fougeres are usually somewhat sharp and herbal; geranium, lavender, and coumarin are typical notes. Brut is a fougere, IIRC. Very stereotypically masculine smell.

    Chypres are heavy, dark,...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Vetivers and Ambers

    Natural vetiver oil smells like a clump of sod: dirty and rooty, with a grassy undertone that comes out more in dilution. Some vetivers have a bit of a burnt or smoky note as well.

    I don't think...
  85. Re: Recommend some new colognes for a college kid please

    I think a college sophomore oughta be able to spell "you" without straining. :P

    I think Envy would be a good fit for your fall wardrobe. Jaipur is a very nice oriental, but a pretty big jump from...
  86. Replies
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    Re: anyone try phat atman

    I have a sample. I liked it better than most of the other typical mainstream scents I have samples of; more sandalwood (or something like it), not so much water and fruit. Apparently someone out...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Sephora Visit: Gucci PH vs. Aramis!

    Gucci PH is definitely a blast of cedar with some incense. Alkman, I'd guess your skin killed it.
  88. Replies
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    Re: Dolce & Gabbana Pour Homme

    I don't like it myself.. doesn't fit me, really, and it comes on too strong in the beginning. However, I have to give D&G props for putting out a mainstream fragrance with some individuality.
  89. Re: What do "old fashioned/dated" fragrances smell like?

    I'm always amazed at how these "old smell" threads generate so much confusion and hostility.
  90. Replies
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    Re: zino davidoff...to buy or not to buy

    Is anything really a safe blind buy? I mean, that would mean it's a fragrance that everyone likes, and I don't think there is such a thing.

    If you can find it cheap at Marshall's like manicboy...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Modern vs. Traditional Olfactive families.

    Marketing would be my guess.
  92. Replies
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    Re: Bright scent for cold seasons

    I gotta agree, "cold" and "bright" just don't go together well. The only think I can think of that would fit the bill is a sharp fougere.. or maybe something boozy?
  93. Replies
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    Re: M7 Fresh - The Big Letdown

    Agreed. I like M7, but the Fresh version just smells weird, and not in a good way.
  94. Thread: Ungaro III

    by Xplo
    Replies
    20
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    1,377

    Re: Ungaro III

    Considering you didn't like it before, what makes you think you'll like it now?
  95. Thread: Oriental.

    by Xplo
    Replies
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    2,276

    Re: Oriental.

    I was also going to suggest Jaipur.
  96. Replies
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    Re: The Olfactionary by Le Labo

    The majority of these are available as samples from Eden Botanicals for about $2 each. Of the rest, none are particularly difficult to procure.
  97. Re: I really enjoy Ungaro III - what should I try next???

    If you imagine that there is a hypothetical third fragrance that Ungaro III is the dirty, sleazy, loud version of, then Zino is the dandy version of it.
  98. Thread: Serious Question

    by Xplo
    Replies
    19
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    1,664

    Re: Serious Question

    First: I think it's unscientific alarmist hogwash.

    There may well be perfumery ingredients that are allergenic or toxic, but this is a cause for rigorous, unbiased scientific study and realistic...
  99. Re: Sorry, but what really is the sexiest male fragrance!?!?!

    Scent is subjective. Heck, taste is subjective. The only thing wearing fragrance really says about you is that you're a person who wears fragrance.

    For example, take Bob. Bob's wearing Acqua di...
  100. Thread: DSquared2 He Wood

    by Xplo
    Replies
    6
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    1,402

    Re: DSquared2 He Wood

    I do like the bottle, but I predict the fragrance will be very ordinary (looking at the notes).
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000