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  1. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    Weird isn't it? You sometimes wonder if they actually want to sell anything at all. I know you are only ordering small amounts (in comparison to IFF for example!!), but everyone starts somewhere....
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    Re: Nitro Musks and their effect

    You could well be right, but I'm not 100.0% sure.
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    Re: Nitro Musks and their effect

    There used to be a musk chemical used that was different from the rest. From memory it wasn't a Nitromusk, but smelled very powdery and dry. I think it was called something like "Musk B", but I'm...
  4. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    If I were given the choice I would always go with Firmenich; everything they do is good. Whilst Charabot produces good naturals (well they used to) their bases and accords were not so good. If it...
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    Re: Are we making WET DOG perfume yet?

    Cysteine is an amino acid found in all sorts of proteins. It is unusual because it contains sulphur. S-S bonds are one way in which proteins maintain their 3D shape.
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    Re: Not impressed with FCO.

    FCO will flatten any fragrance compared with the same fragrance in ethanol. Looking at your simple mix I see that it is mainly Middle and Base notes; there is hardly any top at all. You will need...
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    Re: Nitro Musks and their effect

    For powder I would go with Ketone and Xylene.
  8. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    I have visited the Jasmine fields owned by Charabot, in Grasse.
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    Re: A few general questions!

    But without being able to weigh your Orris root powder, how can you know the concentration? How can you be sure that the next time you tincture the powder you are not using a different amount?
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    Re: A few general questions!

    Or you could make things a whole lot easier for yourself, and measure by weight. If you want to make a solution from a solid, I cannot see how you can achieve this by drops. How do you make a...
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    Re: Homemade Reed Diffuser

    No "normal" rate. You try to make the fragrance last as long as you want it to. Let's say you want your product to last for three weeks. You make up your reed diffuser, and weigh it each day...
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    Re: Biolandes Artessence Bases

    Depends on the volume, of course, but the examples you give are very expensive. Genuine Mimosa absolute won't be that much, or shouldn't be.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    There is always going to be one example that is "the exception that proves the rule". I'm are that there will be specific examples that go against the general understanding, but the majority of...
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    Re: Biolandes Artessence Bases

    Depends on the price, of course, but they will be good. Biolandes products are always good.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Organic chemical reactions are much slower as they are not ionic. The oxidation of an aldehyde to form an acid will take time unless a catalyst is present. Simply leaving Aldehyde C12 in the open...
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    Re: A few general questions!

    I'm not spamming, just because you do not understand my questions. You wrote "I still don't see why using drops as measuring is not okay." I gave some examples where it would not be possible to...
  17. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    Thanks for that Chris, I had not heard of this solvent before. As a new material, it would be necessary to determine rates of evaporation for each ingredient mixed with this. If it is faster than...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    From my memory of Chemistry "A" Level, several decades ago, The Law of Mass Action and Le Chatellier's Priciple etc., temperature is one of the deciding factors in determining how a reaction will...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    I would have thought that storing anything at a low temperature will reduce the rate of any potential reactions that could occur; even if those reactions were exothermic. It's a long time since I...
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    Re: A few general questions!

    Also how do you handle solids? How do you make a 10.0% solution of Raspberry Ketone? How do you use Elemi Gum, or Labdanum? How do you duplicate something that you are pleased with?
  21. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    Forgive my ignorance Chris, but what is MMB? Clearly, being away from work for so long I am getting out of touch.
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    Could well be; makes sense.
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    Re: Brandy in Perfume?

    There are several ingredients that have a boozy note. Lie de Vin is one (in fact there are two Lie de Vins, green and white). Made from wine lees and smells like bad whisky/brandy. There are a...
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    Re: Lasting smell

    On smelling strip, I would say; between a few minutes to an hour is Top, between an hour to a day is Middle, between a day and several weeks in Base. It is a very rough approximation, and indeed a...
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    Re: Mixing carrier oils?

    It will probably be OK to mix various carrier oils together; as far as I am aware, Coconut oil and Sunflower oil are miscible . However, if you do use pre-diluted Essential oils , and they have...
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    Re: Dihydrocoumarin

    I have always understood that Dihydrocoumarin was used in Flavours (whilst Coumarin could not be used), and vice versa; Coumarin in Fragrances, Djhydrocoumarin not.
  27. Re: What's Heptanal Diethyl Acetal used for?

    If it is an analysis of an alcoholic solution, and the sample was fairly old, it could simply indicate the presence of Aldehyde C7 which has formed an Acetal with the ethanol. However, it is...
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    You are quite right I did say that. However as Musk Ambrette was banned in the early 70s there hasn't been much use of it. It also seems that most other Perfumers preferred to use Musk Ketone,...
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    Re: Welsh Treemoss Tincture Challenge

    This has gone very quiet; any news?
  30. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    Charabot has a contract with Chanel to supply their French Jasmine. I know this because I was told it by the Charabot rep who was a good friend of mine.
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    Re: Benzophenone not dissolving

    Have you tried making up a solution of Benzophenone in a variety of solvents? Try DPG, DEP, Benzyl Alcohol, PEA, and Linalol. If you have success with one or more, uses those.
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    Re: DEP more than just a dilutent?

    DPG tends to be used in fragrances designed for water based products as it is very polar, and somewhat water soluble itself. In a fine fragrance it seems to be a good all round solvent/diluent. ...
  33. Re: What amounts of absolutes will 10,000 jasmine flowers & 28 dozen roses yield?

    You're absolutely right; I apologise for my remark and will contribute no more to this thread.
  34. Re: What amounts of absolutes will 10,000 jasmine flowers & 28 dozen roses yield?

    Does it matter?
  35. Re: Jasmine Grandiflorum from Grasse - who sells it?

    Charabot supplies Chanel.
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    I think it so sweet that the first thing you do upon waking is to smell your hand and report here on Basenotes. Bless.
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    Re: Rose Crystals Solubility

    I didn't mention Benzyl Benzoate, I mentioned Benzyl Acetate as it is a very common Perfumery ingredient. Not all liquids will be soluble in ethanol. In post number 15 I stated that Limonene...
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    Re: Jasmine oil

    To be picky you don't get Jasmine Oil, only Jasmine Absolute. Jasmine Absolute Egyptian is sold by many producers. Albert Veille, Fackry, Charabot; to name but three. They, and others, produce...
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    Re: Rose Crystals Solubility

    Clearly the concentration you have isn't soluble at room temperature. Have you tried other solvents such as DPG? HAve you tried dissolving these crystals in Linalol or Benzyl Acetate, or even...
  40. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    Are you making your own fragrances? If you are please PM me with the formulae and I will check to see if I think they are OK. If you are buying them from a supplier you should check to see if the...
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    Re: Rose Crystals Solubility

    Dmitrly that is a difficult question to answer. Most basic perfumery chemicals will be soluble in ethanol, some will not. As ethanol is a polar material, and like dissolves like, you would expect...
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    Musk Xylene is very tenacious. You will probably still smell it tomorrow.
  43. Re: Fixatives, preservatives and uv protectors

    Certainly is! I think if you want to ask about Fixatives etc. you should start a new thread.
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    Price. I always found that Musk Xylene to be the most crude of the NItromusks; but it was definitely the cheapest. It was probably the best musk to use in a Fabric Softener ( mixed together with...
  45. Re: What mixture for reed diffuser solvent??????? Help PLEEEEEEEEEASE

    The Dowanols do indeed have their own smell, and depending where you buy them that smell can be very strong. You should try to buy Perfumery quality, that is selected by odour. I have no idea...
  46. Re: Maths and I are fighting again. Specific gravity questions

    No, it isn't. I am ignoring density and assuming that a 30.0 ml bottle will easily hold 27.0 gms of fragrance. I'm not being at all scientific or accurate about it, because it isn't necessary.
  47. Re: Useage levels of the new and the old - comparisons invited and discussion

    They will all have been tested. Testing a single chemical is easier than testing an oil; many more chemicals in an oil and amounts of chemicals vary from batch to batch. The recommended dosage...
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    Re: Musk Xylene (xylol) first impressions

    The smell you notice coming from the crystals maybe residues of the solvents used in its manufacture. Try smelling a solution.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Things are rarely positive or negative; black or white. Usually they end up being a compromise, and in shades of grey.
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    Re: Most Often Mispronounced Fragrances

    Songe dern bois detey.
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    Re: Ethanol in Canada?

    If the ethanol is not denatured you will have to pay tax on it; that is one of the reasons ethanol is denatured. Denatured ethanol has been made non potable, and so is free from tax. Look for...
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    Re: Ratios - What Am I Doing!?

    If you have read the sticky you should know why DPG is used. It is a solvent and can be used to dilute individual ingredients if they are very strong, or difficult to handle. DPG will be soluble...
  53. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    I hope you agree with me, if you use it.
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    Re: Rose Edward "bourbon"

    It has been suggested that I write about Roses and how one goes about making a good Rose base. In the same way that I wrote about Dimethyl Sulphide etc. I am very reluctant to do this as I feel...
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    Re: Ratios - What Am I Doing!?

    Mix your Essential oils together until you get something you find pleasant. I would suggest you make up simple mixtures using only two Essential oils, and experiment until you get something you...
  56. Re: Should Rose oil smell sharp and metallic

    First off, anything that describes itself as being "12.0% natural" cannot be wholly natural. So what you have is a Rose base. Secondly, Rose otto (Rose oil) and Rose Absolute smell quite...
  57. Re: Jasmine flower accord , cis jasmone, methyl jasmonate

    iso Jasmone is weaker and less effective than cis Jasmone; although it is still useful.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    If you think the smell is OK, and if you know the strength of your solution; then why not use it?
  59. Re: Fixatives, preservatives and uv protectors

    How dare you make such an accusation. I was a professional Perfumer for over 30 years. I have tried to answer your questions, and each time I have answered them, because you didn't like the...
  60. Re: Maths and I are fighting again. Specific gravity questions

    You are making things far too complicated, and it is not necessary to do this. Work only in weight, forget volume and assume that the final specific gravity will be close to 1.00 (it won't be...
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    Re: How does one pronounce calone ?

    Linn
    al
    ol
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    You added ethanol to your aldehyde C12; the aldehyde dissolved, the acid plus polymer remained.
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Lilial oxidises and polymerises even in the fridge (albeit more slowly). Hydroxycitronellal will also oxidise quite easily. And to be really dull and geeky, nonadienal is an aliphatic aldehyde. ...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Good idea to keep Citrus oils, and aldehydes in the fridge. I noticed that on the bottle of Almond essence I have (for cooking) it suggests keeping it in the fridge. Benzaldehyde can oxidise to...
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    Re: storage of "other" aldehydes

    Aldehyde C9 Nonanal, and Cucumber Aldehyde Nonadienal, are both true aldehydes and as such have the potential to be changed into the corresponding acid. Aldehyde C14 Peach Aldehyde, is not a true...
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    The reason Musk Ambrette was banned, in the 1970s, was due to its supposed neurotoxicity, not that it was a photo sensitiser. The ban took place before the EU took an interest in Fragrance...
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    Re: New here, diy mens scent and shopping

    Once again I would suggest you take time to read the stickies at the top of this forum. They will tell you a lot of stuff, and get you started.
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    Re: New here, diy mens scent and shopping

    I would also like to add that your excessive concern as to the masculinity of your fragrances will probably stop you from enjoying some really good smells. Don't be so worried about the sex of...
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    Re: New here, diy mens scent and shopping

    Woody amber; Fougere (mix of Lavender, Geranium and Bergamot) with a Woody base. Ambroxan, and Ambrocenide will help.

    May I suggest that before you start and waste more money you read the sticky...
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    I hope your idea works. Do let us know.
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    I have no idea how easy it is to get some Musk Ambrette; no doubt if you look hard enough, you will find it. It was banned and removed from our shelves in the late 70s but we still had some for...
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    Disorganised is wrong; ending up with hundreds of organised bottles is fine. I can't really answer your question as I never used pre diluted ingredients. As a beginner I was taught my ingredients...
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    Try some Cosmone for a nitromusk feel. Using the musks available will not duplicate the effect of Musk Ketone or, especially, Musk Ambrette; but you can get the same feel. I have never like...
  74. Re: Can Benzyl Acetate be used to build a pear aroma?

    Good Scents shows three suppliers; Kao, Ventos and Penta.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    We work in different ways mumsy. I never used pre diluted ingredients unless it was too strong to be used at full strength. I was in the lucky position of not having to worry about using up lots...
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    Re: Rose Oxide - clarity please...

    laevo Rose Oxide is by far the superior ingredient; it is also the most expensive. Quite often, racemic will do. The difference between the various grades of cis and trans, I leave up to others.
  77. Re: Can Benzyl Acetate be used to build a pear aroma?

    I repeat, look at Poirenate.
  78. Replies
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    Using a crystalline solid when compounding is easy. In post number 5, I suggested adding solids and solvents/ building blocks, before anything else. Musk Ketone is a solid that may be treated in...
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    Re: Food Grade Chemicals

    The method of entry into the body is entirely different. If you inhale something it passes via the mucous membranes in the lungs directly into the blood stream. If you eat something it has to go...
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    Rather than using the solid concentrate, you use a 50.0% solution (or whatever the concentration that gives a workable material). Yes, it will alter the end product, but only slightly. Think of...
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    If you have a material that is near solid at room temperature, it might be a good idea to pre dilute it to a manageable viscosity. Gently warm the ingredient and dilute it 50:50 with a suitable...
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    Re: Order of ingredients - mixing

    Solids and viscous materials together with solvent and/or building blocks (like Linalol, Hedione etc.). Gentle stirring to dissolve, then the rest of the ingredients, the most volatile in last. ...
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate Question

    Sounds like your sample is contaminated, with the chemicals you mention.
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate Question

    That's because it is pretty odourless and not meant to be used for its smell. It is used as a solvent and odourless fixative.
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    Re: Food Grade Chemicals

    Not everything that can be used in Perfumery can be used as a Flavour, and vice versa. For example Coumarin can be used in Fragrances but not in Flavours. There are a few applications where it is...
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    Re: Aftelier Agarwood Oil?

    I'm always suspicious when I read words such as "Sustainable" , "Renewable", or "Self sustaining". What was growing on the land that these tree are now growing on? How much damage was caused...
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate Question

    Good idea nicok.
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    Re: Benzyl Salicylate Question

    Benzyl Salicylate is a strange one. Many people, including myself, are totally anosmic to it. Give me a smelling strip dipped in Benzyl Sal, and I cannot smell anything. However, I am aware if...
  89. Re: Can Benzyl Acetate be used to build a pear aroma?

    Poucher's Flavour formulae are, in my experience, not very useful for Perfumers. They always contain far too much Ethyl Acetate and other very volatile esters. I could see them working as a...
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    Re: Preservatives

    And your point is? You show the list of ingredients that must, by law, be declared. Not quite sure what the point of this is.

    Is it necessary to add certain materials that fulfil a necessary...
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    Re: Preservatives

    If there is present in your fragrance some aldehydes, and a chemical with an amino group there will be Schiff's bases formed; over time. How long that takes will depend on many things including the...
  92. Re: First ever perfume finished with a crimped bottle......

    Looks amazing mumsy; well done.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Preservatives

    Nothing protects completely; one has to judge according to the problem. By how much would you consider changing the pH of a fragrance, and how would you achieve it? And before you answer please...
  94. Re: I want to know about Top Notes, Middle Notes, Base Notes

    I would suggest you read the stickies at the top of this forum.
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    Re: phenylhexanol vs Phenylethyl alcohol

    Everyone has their own opinion in Perfumery; ain't it grand!
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    Re: Preservatives

    Comment deleted.
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    Re: Preservatives

    I mentioned antioxidants in the second post of this long thread. How you prevent Schiff's base, or Acetal formation; I have no idea.
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    Re: powerful men fragrance

    Surely a powerful man will wear what the hell he wants. Try Tabu. Or Poison. Or Tea Rose. Or Fracas. Whatever you want.
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    Re: Preservatives

    So, 70.0% Benzoic Acid in Benzoin. Benzoin Resinoid is, maybe, 50.0% Benzoin in solvent. How much Resinoid would you add to a fragrance for its preservative properties? Without it changing the...
  100. Re: If our language influenced the perception of odors?

    As far as I was aware the ancient Greeks had no word for Blue; hence Homer's "Wine dark sea". Unless you name something it is very difficult to describe it; and unless you need to name it, it goes...
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