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  1. Re: Do you prefer having one signature fragrance or having a small collection to choose from?

    Welcome!

    Most people here on Basenotes are collectors, so I bet most people, including myself, would prefer to have a large set to choose from.

    That said, nothing wrong with having a signature...
  2. Thread: Testing Methods

    by cacio
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    Re: Testing Methods

    It sounds like a great method, especially if one usually sprays in such a way that the clothes get the perfume too.
  3. Re: Recommendation for someone who LOVES Tuscan Leather

    Have you tried other leathers or is it TL that appeals to you particularly?

    I concur with other suggestions. Leather oud for something big and animalic, Knize Ten for a bit of gasoline. If you...
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    Re: Fougère Starter Pack of 8. Your picks?

    Zealot

    too bad the excellent first three in your list don't really exist in a state similar to their creation...

    Fougere Royale in particular must have felt really different from anything else...
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    Re: Best male Oriental

    In those marketed to men only, Egoiste.

    But of course pretty much all orientals, whomever they are marketed to, make good masculines in the traditional sense.
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    Re: Fougère Starter Pack of 8. Your picks?

    Reading the great answers I realized I forgot to add a nugere. Luckily I only indicated 6, so I'll add
    1725 (or Invasion barbare, but I feel 1725 is more of a fougere, IB doesn't have the opening of...
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    Re: Pairing with Chanel Cuir de Russie

    Sandalwood is a great material that works well in many circumstances and feels rich and natural, so I can see how the pairing could work. (Unlike, I am assuming, the synthetic Allure).

    It's...
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    Re: Fougère Starter Pack of 8. Your picks?

    Jicky or Mouchoir de Monsieur (as classical as it gets, absent the original Fougere royale)
    Chanel Boy (a bit too smooth, but again in the classic style)
    Azzaro pour homme (aromatic fougere of the...
  9. Thread: Death

    by cacio
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    Re: Death

    HdP Petroleum. Aquatic oud, like entering a dark, humid cavern.

    Death and decay was available at some point in store, but Lush keeps rotating, so it's probably not available now.
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    Re: CHANEL Pour Monsieur Eau De Toilette Spray

    As zealot was saying, this one hadn't been marketed for a while in the US. it came back for a brief year then I guess Chanel decided it wasn't worth the expensive shelf space at department stores....
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    Re: Pairing with Chanel Cuir de Russie

    It's so hot down here that the idea of wearing CdR isn't really appealing... But looking forward to hearing your opinions.

    Bois noir is the son of Bois des Isles, so it'll be a bit like CdR + BdI....
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    Re: Newbie - beginning a collection

    Welcome!

    Good start. Since you live in hot and humid weather, you seem to gravitate towards fresher things. For hot weather, I like vetivers a lot, so you could explore more vetivers, from...
  13. Thread: Factice's

    by cacio
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    Re: Factice's

    This reminds me, I had a thread about a youtube video where some factice bottles are used to decorate a big closet with fancy bags. (In the video, the person says that they contain real perfumes, but...
  14. Re: Your Favorite Mall Store Fragrance/Favorite Mall Store for Fragrance

    If it counts, Lush (miles better than other bath and body stores). And Mac at some point had Tom Ford trickle-down (meaning simplified/slightly changed versions of TF perfumes, which are also under...
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    Re: Online auctions question

    It happened a few times to me, but not too often. As starblind was saying, sometimes people don't pay (so easy to create temporary emails). Sometimes there's a minimum bid that is not reached. And...
  16. Thread: Factice's

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: Factice's

    I don't have any myself but agree that they can make a decor statement. The demise of small perfume shops over the past 10-15 years made quite a few appear on ebay.

    I think that the word actually...
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    Re: "Best" masculine-appropriate Amber frangrance?

    Profumi del Forte Ambra Mediterranea is predominantly amber, but with (synthetic) woods- quite strong and masculine but not particularly dirty.
  18. Re: Oakmoss in vintage perfume including deep vintage

    I agree with Bonnette. Vintage perfumes contain many ingredients and I don't think it's oakmoss that is problematic. Typically, the ingredients that turn first are the more volatile ones, like citrus...
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    Re: Why is your favorite genre your favorite?

    In the summer, perhaps green things (florals, vetiver, etc)-I'm not a fan of marine or modern freshies, but green notes can work very well for me.

    when it's colder, leathers. Warm and usually long...
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    Re: Oliver & Co. Niche Perfumery Thread

    I need to reexamine Veil...

    The nebulas are definitely very experimental, CDG on steroids, and with no attempt to smell natural. I own Carina and Orion. I find them fun.

    Most others in the line...
  21. Re: Pick Top 5 Most Masculine Fragrances You Have Smelled?

    Kouros
    ELdO Rien
    Mazzolari Lui
    Knize Ten
    Mouchoir de Monsieur

    cacio
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    Re: Paco Rabanne Calandre

    Good that she's enjoying it.
    My slight preference goes to Calandre, which more straightforward and not as dark.

    cacio
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    Re: Fragrances With a Free Gift

    I've done it with a couple of Estee Lauders-I would have got them anyway but waited for the gift with purchase.
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    Re: Tuscan Leather worth it in 2019?

    I don't think it's worth looking for vintage. And I agree that ombre leather is close enough as to be a substitute.

    There are many leather perfumes around, and while I appreciate it, TL is not my...
  25. Re: “Chewy” or “fatty” fragrances = what?

    Sometimes I associate fatty with lactones, which give a creamy, milky texture. In fact, I must be oversensitive to some lactone, because there are perfumes (ie the old YSL Champagne) that I find...
  26. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    Good point about whether perfumers skills are changing.

    Not being in the industry, I don't know. But the osmotheque still has and replicates the old complex perfumes, and ISPICA students (hosted...
  27. Re: Perfumers: Vintage Fragrance compared to Modern Fragrance construction

    I'll let perfumers chime in. But I'd say it's a combination of taste and ingredients restrictions. Taste because after the 80s there was a shift towards simpler, cleaner stuff. Restrictions because...
  28. Re: Recommended Amouage scent for the summer (Humid, Texas weather)

    Silver and Reflection are quite different. silver is closer to a traditional eau de cologne, and is not sweet.

    cacio
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    Re: Grandma's Handbag Scents

    NCal
    indeed, that vintage one felt more dirty-floral, which I associate with a well used bag.

    cacio
  30. Re: Recommended Amouage scent for the summer (Humid, Texas weather)

    Silver for me. Neroli and other fresh materials, with a metallic twist. Richer in vintage, but still very good.
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    Re: Grandma's Handbag Scents

    Suede, a touch of animalic florals, old style makeup (ie iris and violet). Chanel Cuir de Russie comes to mine (but with more makeup added).

    Misia does the makeup really well, as noted, though it...
  32. Re: why do "incenses" perfumes smell totally different?

    As darjeeling and others were saying, incense in perfumery doesn't equate with frankincense, but more broadly with a variety of materials used for burning.

    If you have been in an old church where...
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    Re: Paco Rabanne Calandre

    Congrats on the Rive Gauche purchase. Indeed, a wonderful perfume-and if you like this you'll like Calandre too.
  34. Re: Cold/Detached Fragrances (In Need Of Recommendations)

    Certain older Chanels like Cristalle or said no 19 are cold and icy (though not grim or disconcerting).

    For grimness, Luca Turin pointed out the inedible sour chocolate drydown of things like...
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    Re: Nicolai New York Intense

    rum

    do you mean the card that came in the original or the card in the intense?

    cacio
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    Re: Nicolai New York Intense

    There is certainly a soft powdery note, which substitutes the more chypre original base. I like it.
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    Re: Anyone have any experience with Oliver&Co?

    I bought during the previous sale. The best for me are Orion, Carina, and Resina. (but I have tried veil only once, and i don't remember it well). As diamondflame was saying, the first two at least...
  38. Re: What differences between these mugler colognes?

    Good to know that this one is simply the repackaging of the original (with an increase in price perhaps?).
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    Re: Looking For Something New For the Summer...

    For something classic, one possibility is Azemour les orangers (greenish, citrus chypre).
    If you like fig, but don't want to repeat philosykos, you can check Fig My love by the Zoo (stronger, less...
  40. Re: What differences between these mugler colognes?

    Yes, the first link is the original, the one people talk about.

    The second link is to different perfumes, a new series of 4 colognes, which have different twists (green, citrus, etc). Pleasant,...
  41. Re: Dabbed or sprayed? Perfumes that perform better one way or the other

    As you mentioned, I think the big difference is the opening. If one sprays, its much bigger. If dabbed, one doesn't get the initial oomph. Over time, they converge to a quieter drydown. Perhaps it's...
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    Re: Cloying drydowns...

    I guess that part of the problem is that fresh notes like citrus tend to evaporate fast, so the perfumer has to go somewhere else in the base. I agree with you that vetiver or some type of dry wood...
  43. Thread: Fragrance bells

    by cacio
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    Re: Fragrance bells

    I don't know if they have a special name. Cones, bells, etc.
    One producer called them "monclin", but I don't think tha name stuck. Eg
    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/175294-The-Monclin!

    cacio
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    Re: American house suggestions

    I'm singling out Fazzolari. Lampblack, as noted above, dry, slightly smokey. I also own his narcissus.
  45. Poll: Re: Tauer Au Coeur du Desert or L'Air du Desert Marocain?

    Both great and there is certainly space for both. I voted for Air because it is bigger, sweeter, very wintery.
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    Re: Leather for Summer

    Colonia leather. Dry citrus and leather. A bit brutalistic, but not heavy.

    cacio
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    Re: Paco Rabanne Calandre

    I don't think either note was used in great quantity, it's a rose and it's not a traditional chypre, so it probably doesn't matter that much if they are restricted. Also, I heard that Calandre used...
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    Re: Heat and Fragrances

    They should be fine-continuous heat will damage a perfume, but not a couple of hours at warm but not boiling temperatures. After all, that's what happens when perfumes are shipped. They are certainly...
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    Re: Arabian oud store could be much better

    I visited the one in NYC. I haven not seen the one in Tyson, and I'm curious. The one in NYC had a good choice of the house, both oils and alcohol based perfumes. The price of the oils ranged from...
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    Re: Paco Rabanne Calandre

    Great choice, Calandre is one of my favorite perfumes. It hasn't changed much since the beginning (I don't think it contained oakmoss or jasmine, so it simply survived)-so I would not worry about...
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    Re: Most animalic that you enjoy?

    For me, ELdO Rien overall, but probably in terms of just pure animalics, JAR Ferme tes yeux (dirty jasmine). When I first smelled it, I though it was too much. But then one gets used.

    Kouros is...
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    Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    I'd say your category of dry/lemon/pine is most associated with mediterranean countries (eg Italy), where it's hot and you really appreciate something fresh and dry. Not necessarily just barbershop...
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    Re: Talking Shop About Barbershop (Scents)!

    For me, old style classic, powdery fougeres. the original fougere royale. Of current perfumes, perhaps 1725.

    cacio
  54. Re: Pairing certain fragrances with certain outfits(men, women, etc.)

    Welcome!
    As hednic, I don't think about pairing clothes with perfumes.But naturally things tend to go together, eg formal outfits and heavier more structure perfumes, summery things and fresher...
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    Re: Italian perfume houses -- help!

    If you go to Florence, I strongly recommend you go to the L'Oprofumo store. The owner is very nice and knowledgeable, and they have many Italian hard to find niche houses, including the brand of the...
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    Re: Clean, summer fragrance recommendations

    The Mugler is definitely worth trying. Clean and with a touch of soap, but not the regular one.

    If you have a Lush nearby, you can also check Dirty. In body spray, it's quite cheap and lasts a...
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    Re: Oriental Floral Recommendations?

    Shalimar and Opium are the two reference orientals, so you should definitely try them. Shalimar is more vanillic and Opium more spicy-clovey. They are not particularly floral though (though Opium...
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    Re: Camp: notes on fashion

    I had forgotten about Sex Appeal. Definitely falls in the sincere camp field.

    I tried it after LT's good review. And it does smell traditional, but it was so fleeting. I wonder if vintage was more...
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    Re: Stand up to humidity

    Usually vetivers do well on me in humidity-things like Sycomore, Vetiver extraordinaire, and so on. But then you said the Guerlain didn't work for you...

    cacio
  60. Re: Grown man clothing (slacks, dress shirts, shoes and ties)

    Basenotes can be dangerous, not just for perfumes.

    I had no Tyrwhitt shirt, but there's a store around the corner from my office. They are having sales, so I got a white summery shirt for $35. Not...
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    Re: So what do you guys think I should try next?

    It seems that for now you tend to like woody, dryer things.

    For something still in the woody fresh territory, but a bit stranger, you can try CDG2 man, a fresh incense.

    As for ouds, there are...
  62. Re: Grown man clothing (slacks, dress shirts, shoes and ties)

    Good to know about Brooks brothers. Back then, that was the idea. Solid and reliable, you knew they would last well and be appropriate for business environment.

    I agree that black can be very...
  63. Re: Expending collection with some quality fragrances

    In your list, I'd single out Pure Malt. It's quite warm and woody, and I don't think you have anything in that style in your collection. Another warm woody perfume would be Chanel Egoiste.

    You can...
  64. Re: Grown man clothing (slacks, dress shirts, shoes and ties)

    Synthetics are not good because, as you point out, they make you sweat. Cotton is light. And easy to wash.

    I used to get Brooks brothers shirts in the past but I haven't in a few years, so I...
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    Re: Warhol's Guerlain Appreciation

    Ken

    I don't now the specific for this movie, but usually it's the set designer team that puts stuff out, the director doesn't bother in the details. If the movie is big enough, the production...
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    Re: Warhol's Guerlain Appreciation

    Thanks for the pics! These are always fun...

    I also see a No 5 functional product that I can't quite decipher (after shower? I doubt there's an after shave no 5)

    cacio
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    Re: Wedding gift ideas

    My favorite quirky house is Etat Libre d'Orange, which has a sample set of all their collection. If you want to splurge, Amouage has (extremely expensive) sets.

    Once, for a wedding, I gave a...
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    Re: best guerlains for men?

    Many worth trying. singling out Mouchoir de Monsieur (classic citrusy fougere) and Derby (classic citrus woody. expensive, as said)
  69. Re: Help Me Find... (Looking For Recommendations)

    If you like tuberose, Fracas is a must. It's less syrupy and sweet than the 80s Poison, but still creamy, luscious, and suitably "red".
    More mainstream tuberoses include Hermes Twilly (but it's a...
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    Poll: Re: Your favorite Amouage Woman?

    I chose Gold because it's the most classic. A big, symphonic floral. Close second Fate, a beautiful oriental reminiscent of Opium, but less strong and more elegant.
    Shootout also to Ubar, which you...
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    Re: Camp: notes on fashion

    According to Sontag...
    although later on she points out as well that

    Perhaps, though, it is not so much a question of the unintended effect versus the conscious intention, as of the delicate...
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    Re: Camp: notes on fashion

    Re: whether camp is knowing or not, from the exhibit I learnt that Susan Sontag distinguished the two types (citation from Notes on camp below):

    18. One must distinguish between naïve and...
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    Re: Benchmark scents or.. the classics

    Some of these notes can take various forms. Oud especially, which ranges from woody to musky and fruity. Rose itself-it goes from clean citrusy to jammy and dark. Vetiver has a clearer personality,...
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    Re: dior cologne royal vs chanel eau de cologne

    Both excellent. If I need to choose, I prefer the Chanel, which has a touch of green (in fact, I'm at my second 400ml bottle).

    The chanel lasts pretty well for being a cologne, but, like all...
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    Re: Casinos room perfume

    I didn't see any smoking there-but that's maryland after all, so perhaps it was indeed a smoke free casino...

    cacio
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    Casinos room perfume

    I stopped by the National Harbor resort in DC's suburbs last weekend and noticed that the MGM casino smells distinctly like the leather material in Tuscan leather (and other modern leathers). So the...
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    Re: Camp: notes on fashion

    Thanks for the suggestions - things to check I did not know about.

    As for Avon, the perfume "Gay nineties" (back then innocent, now it could count as camp if it were redistributed)

    cacio
  78. Replies
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    Re: Camp: notes on fashion

    Mugler perfumes seems to have gone for that a lot. I haven't followed Azzaro (after the pour homme).

    Moschino was indeed featured in several clothes at the exhibit. I am not very familiar with the...
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    Camp: notes on fashion

    Last week, I visited the Camp fashion exibit at the Metropolitan museum of art in NYC. It was quite interesting, and the clothes were fabulous.

    Which prompts a question: are there "camp" perfumes?...
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    Re: Montale Recommendation

    Sorry to hear you don't like it. That said, sometimes things come around, perhaps in a year you'll feel like trying something new. So you should just keep it aside. Or give it as a gift to somebody...
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    Re: How Has Your Fashion Changed Through the Years?

    Through my 20s, I simply didn't care. So probably I was wearing jeans and shirt, or whatever my mom gave me.

    Then I started to follow fashion a bit more, so from more minimalistic style to a bit...
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    Re: Modern Masculine Lavender Fragrance

    Are you referring to Caron pour un homme? There were some discussions. For me, the current one is still great and worth having. Vintage had a deeper base, but this doesn't bother me much, to me pour...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Modern Masculine Lavender Fragrance

    Concurring with the others, the modern lavenders I like are of the smooth fougere variety (1725, Jersey) rather than the sharp one.

    Have you tried Lush Dirty? Not lavender per se, but a mix of...
  84. Re: what smells similar to ombre leather (tom ford) and colonia leather (Acqua di Parma )?

    In the style, I also recommend Colonia Leather. It's drier and sharper. Sharper still, Montale Aoud Leather.

    Otherwise, there are many excellent leathers (which I prefer to the above) that go in...
  85. Re: Suggestions To Add to a Beginner's "Collection"?

    Prada l'homme has a touch of iris (which Luna Rossa doesn't) so perhaps you can try other perfumes that have a touch of iris, like the Dior Homme range. For the summer, you can check Dior Homme l'eau...
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    Re: Montale Recommendation

    If you like leather, Aoud leather certainly is leathery. It is however sharper than Dark aoud. Aoud Cuir d'Arabie is also leather and oud, but musky and less sharp. I like Aoud lime too, though it...
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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Incidentally, re Bas de soie, there's a note I am hypersensitive to, it feels very swampy to me. But many other people don't find it that way.
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    Re: Vintage POAL Worth Seeking Out?

    I'd say no. It's probably not as strong as it was, but it's still nuclear power, so I'm happy with the current version.
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    Re: Kouros Soothing Shaving Foam

    I never find such things...

    These things contain so many preservatives that it's certainly still good to use. So if you do shave, just enjoy!


    cacio
  90. Thread: Naming notes

    by cacio
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    Re: Naming notes

    Yes, quite often one smells a (usually synthetic) molecule or accord, but, not being a perfumer, one doesn't associate it with a name.

    And reading the official notes is usually of little help...
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    Re: La Couche du diable by Serge Lutens : Oud

    Learning something new (about French that is). In Italian, the corresponding word means not bed, but sleeping place for animals (and it doesn't mean nappy).

    Also, in French coucher avec means have...
  92. Thread: Soap battle

    by cacio
    Replies
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    1,639

    Re: Soap battle

    I like the top of Castile very much, then it gets a little too soapy for me. But then I don't like soap.
    My vote for Castile anyway.
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    Re: Edmond Roudnitska at the Osmothèque

    Beautiful bottles!

    I as looking on ebay and I saw a couple listed for a very high price. Though it's just a listing, doesn't mean anybody will buy them.

    cacio
  94. Thread: Iris Question

    by cacio
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    4,469

    Re: Iris Question

    I assume there are no samples of Iris Nazarena because it is quite expensive and from a small brand.

    I tried it and it is indeed very good, not so much for the iris, but it's the combination of...
  95. Thread: Iris Question

    by cacio
    Replies
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    4,469

    Re: Iris Question

    ISM: it has been reformulated, but not to a shade of itself. The original was darker, almost menacing. The newer one is not as dark and has the bready note typical of modern iris. So still...
  96. Re: Amouage Lyric Woman: caps, formulations and whatnot

    I don't know about the bottles.

    I find the current version rather thin and unsatisfying. I remember something bigger 10+ years ago, but memory could be at fault. You should not assume that a...
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    Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    I agree that towards the base Oud Ispahan and Leather oud converge. Lyric woman probably used to be dark, but the latest I have smelled was not good. Thin rose, without much depth.

    cacio
  98. Replies
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    Re: Take Me In Two Directions (What to Try)

    Welcome!

    Interesting that you put Oud Ispahan among the examples of stinky oud. For me, it would be a great example of western rose-oud (ie in your first category). Although it's true that it is...
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    Re: Rate of evaporation?

    As others were saying. Almost no bottle is 100% sealed, so things will tend to evaporate over time. But extremely slowly (decades or more) for things that are sealed relatively well (which is the...
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    Re: Azurea by L.T. Piver

    Lovely bottle!

    I know nothing about this perfume. I've seen other vintage Piver parfums and the presentations were always lovely (like Pompeia). The bottle looks old and back then perfumes were...
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