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  1. Replies
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    Re: Super smelly materials storage . . ?

    I can add that parafilm doesn't work. What I eventually did was diluting the materials to 1% and sinking the smelly bottles with undiluted stock in a larger container filled with liquid paraffin/wax....
  2. Thread: Pear Heart Notes?

    by xii
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    1
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    530

    Re: Pear Heart Notes?

    Geranyl acetate.

    Have you tried Helvetolide yet?
    I'd also experiment with farnesol and/or ambrette seed oil.
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    Re: Formula for Criticism

    If I were you I'd try to blend around rhubarb and vetiver first:

    Styrallyl acetate
    Floropal
    Vetiveryl acetate
    Vetiver Haiti EO
    Vetival
    Evernyl
    Rhubofix.
  4. Replies
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    Re: Universal backbone accord from Matt

    Picking up the analogy, I don't seem to like milk. There is way too much milk all over the place. It literally oozes into threads about whiskey and absinth.
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    Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    When bruised lilac flowers cease to smell nice. They seem to be made very cheap; grassy smelling and quickly oxidising liquid kept in waxy balloons forming petals whose outer layer produces tiny...
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    I don't know long lasting lavender materials. Lavender absolute is worth trying though. You might need some careful blending. Patchouly and musk (Habanolide perhaps) could give good base to an...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Must de Cartier does it with bergamot, vanilla/amber an civet among others.
    And I like the idea of green urban scent very much.
  8. Replies
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    Re: Camphor note in Creed viking

    Some options:

    1. black pepper & frankincense (spicy)
    2. lavender & patchouly (earthy)
    3. rosemary & cistus (agrestic)

    Coniferan, Prismantol, sandalwood (Australian) and derivatives of eugenol...
  9. Re: Anyone have personal experience with these materials?

    Unlike Dmitriy I like para-Methoxycinnnamaldehyde most from the list. I used it for instance in a damson jam accord. On its own it smells somewhat cooked like a cherry pie to me. Also, even tiny...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Following advice of filousoph in one of my projects I'm testing Spirogalbanone and Trifernal for sharp green notes in a blend already containing bornyl acetate, PADMA, Reseda Body, Triplal, Galbex...
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    Re: galbanum – enhancing its bite and bitterness

    Evernyl, galbanum pyrazine, Corps Racine, violet leaf absolute, mint, ivy base, tuberose EO, ginger, thyme, narcissus base.
  12. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    There is this idea that by mixing several ingredients in correct proportions the individual ingredients become hard to discern and the blend itself attains novel quality. One example of it is the...
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    mattmeleg, I don't think there is a need for a debate here. I'd certainly add blue to my palette when trying to render human skin but try to persuade 6 years old that skin isn't really pink.
    ...
  14. Replies
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    Re: Musk/Amber diffusive-ness suggestion Please.

    Adding to the list: pink pepper, Angelica (traces), rose, orris/carrot seed, Mayol.

    (Definitely aldehydes are worth trying.)
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    Re: Okoumal and Adoxal EU/UK

    Thank you very much, pavomi!
    I suppose I won't be able to create an Okoumal replacement before I have actually smelled it. Nonetheless, I can at least test the ingredients you mentioned in formulas...
  16. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    This way would be daft, wouldn't it?

    I suppose all perfumers develop routines. I thought it wouldn't harm to mention mine.
    In a nutshell, once I blend something meaningful I give it a name bottle...
  17. Re: French + Italian Vocabulary for Scent Description

    Ditto.

    Perhaps éclat which has something to do with splendour thus doesn't faithfully translate to radiance. Humiecki & Graef played with the word éclat in their "Blask" which is an equally...
  18. Re: Is their a better way to accord formulating than the Jean Carles Method beyond using 2 materials

    If you are somewhat conscientious there is no worse blending routine than JC method.

    "Is there an easier way of working out ratios between oils when using the Jean Carles Method?"

    Apart from...
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    Re: Lilac solvent extraction

    I've attempted a solvent extraction with pentane. A fiasco. The waxy substance comes from petals so separating the green parts won't help. More importantly, the extract turned out to be of a very...
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    Re: anosmia is my nightmare

    I wouldn't bother about Aldron. Just be very careful with it. Clothes you accidentally spill some of Aldron upon will keep smelling of sweat and urine to some people even after several washings.
  21. Re: Whats the oddest, rarest natural material you used in a perfumes?

    I've extracted Hōjicha, Japanese roasted tea, with dimethyl ether. This should be my oddest natural.
    Aw, and I distilled Vietnamese coriander whose oil is composed mainly of two C12 aldehydes.
  22. Re: which labels and odors of functional products studied?

    I like Rituals. They offer perfumes which I consider mediocre, therefore some of their shower and wellness products are irresistible to me. Unfortunately, they replace their product lines frequently.
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    Re: advice on my next order

    I don't really know what to do with these two cedar materials. They smell fine and I did try to used them but so far always ended up with using cedar oil. I like Z11 and Tobacarol but again they...
  24. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I think I have been misunderstood. I wrote:



    in hope a short not really polemic statement will be less likely to get twisted into something I didn't claim. Apparently I was wrong. So let me...
  25. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    I definitely agree PW perfumery school seems inferior to, say, ISIPCA. I also agree that especially we, DIY-ers, should be encouraged to look up to excellence without compromise. But there aren't...
  26. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    Re: Acrylate

    I considered propionates after the same line of thought. Not quite what I hoped but propionates are already playing a big role in my green project. Some propionates seem to be quite spectacular....
  27. Re: Perfumery Education? Just say NO to Perfumersworld training.

    In defence of PW training, it might connect better with local perfumery tradition, more spiritual, less exact and predating the western one by millenia.
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    Re: Powder as an effect

    First of all odour descriptors aren't universal; what I'd call fruity could be floral for someone from different spot on Earth. gandhajala brilliantly tossed here on Basenotes a term frames of...
  29. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    Re: Acrylate

    Thank you very much!

    Will do some testing. Great advice!
  30. Thread: Acrylate

    by xii
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    773

    Acrylate

    I'm looking for a material (AC or composition) with sharp odour of acrylic paint. I detected it in a very unusual green accord so I tried to obtain the effect mixing Stemone with other things. In...
  31. Thread: Water Accord

    by xii
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    Re: Water Accord

    Have you tried adding Helional?
  32. Re: Difference between Galbascone, Dynascone, Neobutenone, etc.

    The alpha version, 1-(5,5-dimethyl-1-cyclohex-2-enyl)pent-4-en-1-one, seems to be the greenest and least pineapple of the bunch.
    Galbex 183 is more grapefruit and pine needles than pineapple which...
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    Re: Perfumers education

    Why not ISIPCA with degree?
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    Re: patchouli ABSOLUTE?

    The patchouly absolute from Liaison Carbone is molecularly distilled with IPM as codistillate. So it shares some features with other molecular distillates; it is colourless with clean yet deep...
  35. Re: DIY help: Iso-E Super - Going to be used for layering

    Or screws them up.
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    Re: Maturing Essential Oils With Heat

    Emphasis on gentle. Perhaps it is also worth adding that heat will also promote irreversible reactions. If too many of these occur we no longer call it ageing but heat treatment rather.

    As for...
  37. Re: Ajax and Comet Cleanser - recreating it in a perfume?

    So I experimented a bit with a formula centered around bornyl acetate and Vertenex. Some material suggestions:

    Eucalyptus oil, even in large amounts, works great to modify and lift the top. So...
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    Re: favourite top note accord?

    Well, it's safe to assume every accord has a top note. The phrase top note accord is simply meaningless. jfrater tried to make sense out of it by analogy with top note material. Which is hard to...
  39. Re: Ajax and Comet Cleanser - recreating it in a perfume?

    I haven't managed to get a hold of Ajax Comet cleanser but it seems you could try bornyl acetate Vertenex (woody acetate) combo.
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    Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    Decolorisation with charcoal should work immediately so if you didn't observe a change don't waste more. Also, in essential oils colour comes from volatile compounds just as odour does. I wouldn't...
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    It's been noticed but there are no legal tools to fight it.

    Yes.

    If you don't mention the original brand while selling it it will be legal in most places and, in my opinion, not unethical.

    ...
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    Re: how to make vanilla absolute colourless

    James Peterson's idea might work. In fact I partially decolorise my own vanilla extract in a similar manner: obtaining a sort of vanilla consommé using purely mechanical methods.

    Activated...
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    Re: How can i make perfumers alcohol??

    There is no point in denaturing methanol, it's very toxic on its own.
    Also the fact you haven't experienced methanol's toxicity isn't particularly enlightening. There are factors that can mitigate...
  44. Re: Higher and lower quality Ionones (powdery orris materials)

    No wonder. The odour of orris butter is primarily due to the presence of irones not ionones.
    α-Irone is a pretty damn good substitute. Or better yet some synthetic orris butter like Charabot's...
  45. Thread: Distiller

    by xii
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    Re: Distiller

    You need no distillation equipment to start making your own perfume.
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    Re: A lily scent - NOT lily of the valley?

    I'd start with phenyl ethyl alcohol and eugenol.

    Or better yet just read what renegade suggested some time ago.
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    Re: Disposable Pipettes

    I'm afraid I use about 10k pipette tips per year; meaning about 3kg of polypropylene which I recycle. I feel quite bad about it but I don't really see a reasonable way to avoid it. I tried glass...
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    Re: mostly anosmic to Vol de Nuit & L'Heure Bleue

    Your nose needs rest.
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    Re: Best Notes To Combine With Patchouli ?

    It seems you might want to consider tuberose. Otherwise I'd follow renegade's suggestions.
  50. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    I didn't express myself particularly well but you got it.

    I'm not obsessed with longevity or power. Some blends work just fine for me at 3% and I rarely approach 20%.
  51. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    You may safely assume odoriferous molecules are at infinite dilution in the air. That is there are no intermolecular interactions between them. So the diffusion should be fairly well modelled by a...
  52. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    That's an interesting bit. I thought the double bonds, which increase molecule's freedom, matter in solutions. Similarly, aromatic rings suggest more compact conformation and might therefore affect...
  53. Re: Structural Chemistry of Diffusion & Tenacity Combination?

    I don't think any research linking molecular structure with diffusiveness of volatile compounds in the air has ever been done.

    High tenacity doesn't necessarily contradict high diffusiveness. Some...
  54. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    You may want to dilute strong materials solids thick liquids etc. There are not so many strong naturals though.

    To get rough ideas i mostly use ingredients diluted to 5% in ethanol. One of the...
  55. Re: Essential oils categories, aroma families and attributes.

    Just one thing. Aromaticity is nothing we can smell. So aliphatic is a cryptic descriptor.

    I find it quite instructive to run around with blotters and pester people for odour evaluation. For...
  56. Re: Anyone experimenting with less common citrus notes?

    Yuzu oil is hard to blend. Its odour has many subtle qualities distinguishing it from more familiar citrus oils. It has to be handled like delicate white flowers or else those delicate facets will be...
  57. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    Any of these should work to get the idea which until some eight hours ago was abstract. I gave it a go at 8% using the following materials:

    Lime oil cold pressed Brasil
    Rose absolute R....
  58. Re: Which aromachemical should I try for a pine or spruce note? How about citrus herbal or rose?

    Try lime rose galbanum at 3:2:1.
  59. Replies
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    Re: Chemistry - cinnamyl cinnamate

    One option is you smell impurities which is often a case when the material is crystalline. Impurities are being pushed to the crystal's surface during crystallisation. This would be consistent with...
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    Re: Simple natural accords from Matt - please enjoy

    Mandarin red
    65


    Cedar Virginia
    25


    Tonka absolute
    10
  61. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Overdose Thread

    Nonetheless, smelling Safraleine in Tom of Finland made me smile.
  62. Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge, any starting ideas? (Or Bleu de Chanel)

    In the edit 21 minutes after my answer.

    Edit: I should add perhaps that my suggestions are based upon my experience only so they can be far away from the real thing. Nonetheless, I was eventually...
  63. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Overdose Thread

    Perhaps I should have added I don't really know what overdosed means. I thought of fragrances whose smell is totally dominated by a single aroma chemical. At least at early stages. They're so many...
  64. Re: Ajax and Comet Cleanser - recreating it in a perfume?

    I'm a sucker for functional fragrances made fine. You know, olfactory equivalents of Freitag bags. So I'm going to buy Ajax cleanser and hope l10n didn't influence the odour. Will write here soon.
  65. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Overdose Thread

    Safraleine is also overdosed, in a cheeky way, in Tom of Finland (Etat Libre d'Orange). Geosmin, to me unbearably, in Figment Man (Amouage).
  66. Re: Just purchased Long Lasting Lemon and Perfect Pineapple

    Paul's bases are very high on my wishlist. More importantly, they are, I strongly believe, very high quality perfumery ingredients made by DIYer for DIYers. Which is quite a warming thought.
    ...
  67. Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge, any starting ideas? (Or Bleu de Chanel)

    Having responded I actually thought Sauvage was meant rather that Eau Sauvage which doesn't frequent the same parties as Bleu de Channel. So perhaps the Paul's initial response was the most...
  68. Re: Recreating Dior Eau Savauge, any starting ideas? (Or Bleu de Chanel)

    I'd start from bergamot:lemon roughly at 3:2 in amounts, like half of the concentrate or more.
    This with methyl-ionone some Hedione, patchouly (or related) oakmoss (or related) vetiver (or related)...
  69. Re: Can ambergris tincture enhance the power of comercial perfumes?

    Same. Most likely it'd be a waste of ambergris. If the creators of Aventus saw room for more ambergris synthetics they'd surely increase their amount in the formula. If you were able to replace the...
  70. Thread: Lycee materials?

    by xii
    Replies
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    1,137

    Re: Lycee materials?

    This is an excellent list! Geranium oil is a brilliant idea but might need to be tweaked with extra linalool and/or geraniol.

    I'd still add nerolidol and a tiny amount of cucumber aldehyde. If no...
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    Re: Ways to "freshen up," beta-damascenone?

    Using rose ketones in a perfume is like giving a fire salamander pet to your kid. At first a great idea but your kid moves out starts own family and you are left with the fire salamander.

    So let...
  72. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Trace-Elements Thread

    Labienoxime. There's an ornamental juniper shrub growing near my place. Its needles' odour has a distinct scotch tape note in it. I steam distilled it but I don't know how toxic the oil is as I...
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    Re: How do you cultivate taste?

    The thread idea is fine but it's philosophy so there is no reason to restrict it to DIY section.
  74. Replies
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    Re: How do you cultivate taste?

    I don't think DIY section is the best place for this thread.

    In fact, I think that cultivating good taste (whatever that means and I don't give a darn) is pretty much antipodal (borderline...
  75. Replies
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    Re: The Amazing Trace-Elements Thread

    Perception is subjective but it does it for me. Kacper's description nails it. If you like orange soda pick a can of a good one pop it open and inhale.
  76. Re: All newbies subscribe to perfumer & flavorist online magazine

    Aye aye, sir!
  77. Re: Rose Oudy formula: With Percentages (for beginners from Matt)

    First of all, I consider oriental rose-oudh very hard to blend. With Dorinia almost impossible.

    I'd go quite radical. Coumarin at 4% doesn't scare me at all. I'd combine it with healthy amount of...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Newbie. Advice on testing duration of scents.

    It's a fairly safe assumption.

    Undiluted rose oil on a blotter keeps smelling of a rose for quite some time indeed. However, in blends a rose note needs support or else it fades quickly.
  79. Re: What are the 3 fragrances you have tried to imitate more often?

    I'd like to copy Or Black (Pascal Morabito, 1981) in the current formulation and then reformulate it using more naturals. It seemed doable at first. It's quite easy to sketch this fragrance. However,...
  80. Re: Difference between perfume and fabric softener?

    In Berlin there are lots of construction workers on commuter trains. Though paint stained their overalls smell strongly of fabric conditioners. They seem very cleanly.
    Anyways, I wanted to reproduce...
  81. Re: What do some people mean when speaking of 3D scents?

    It's an abstract concept illustrated by analogy with sound localisation and stereopsis. Slight differences in images perceived by left and right eye or ear allow our brains to develop a model of a...
  82. Replies
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    Okoumal and Adoxal EU/UK

    I've had no luck ordering Adoxal and Okoumal. I don't mind paying customs but the ever so thorough German customs annihilated samples I've ordered twice already quoting lack of REACH documentation in...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Tips for Making Schiff Base Indolene

    gus, I am aware the molecule with CAS: 67860-00-8 is not a Schiff's base I thought I wrote it before. Nonetheless, it might hydrolise into two molecules of indole and one molecule of...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Tips for Making Schiff Base Indolene

    Except it might undergo hydrolysis before interacting with the receptors; just as it is suspected of Schiff's bases.
  85. Replies
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    Re: Tips for Making Schiff Base Indolene

    I see, Indolene is different from

    hydroxycitronellal / indole schiff's base TGSC

    The question is then, which one have I produced? Indolene isn't a Schiff base in any case.

    Anyways, last time...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Tips for Making Schiff Base Indolene

    Without solvent very slow. A year might not do.

    My mix initially kept turning green but then it got ambery brown and almost solid. Possibly indole crystallising...
  87. Replies
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    Re: Tips for Making Schiff Base Indolene

    Paul, why 2MW of indole : 1MW of aldehyde?
  88. Replies
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    Re: Blending directly into alcohol

    Not very practical. If you want to increase the concentration you'll need to reblend.
  89. Replies
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    Re: The question about the "fragmentation"

    That's something I actually experience quite often. Many other people here as well. The formulas get inflated so we streamline them for clarity and performance. It's like having some green pattern on...
  90. Replies
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    Re: The question about the "fragmentation"

    I know the complete talk now. This:


    In order to achieve better performance one should use diffusive materials in top middle and base notes.
    Rather than mixing many similar diffusive materials...
  91. Replies
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    Re: The question about the "fragmentation"

    The slides are confusing. Which is the worst but not only of their flaws (one other would be that they are ugly). Nonetheless, the talk surely contained considerable amount of insight. I'll try to...
  92. Replies
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    Re: The question about the "fragmentation"

    Haven't seen the talk, just slides to it.

    CB suggests two classes of diffusive ingredients: push and (long) lasting. He compares them to sprinters and long distance runners respectively. We are...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    At some point of my stretched adolescence I thought I would check what other people my age do. It met my own activities only marginally, mostly sleeping and eating. I needed to get clued up. For...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Light bulb moments and epic discoveries!

    I share Matt's opinion. In fact I find Kacper Kafel's comments quite entertaining. Especially if you realise that you've heard it before.

    It all started with flappers, young western women wearing...
  95. Re: Different real sandalwood oils? Could you refer me to a source , matching my preferences?

    You probably won't like essential oil of Australian sandalwood, Santalum spicatum. There is also oil of white sandalwood, Santalum album, of Australian origin. This one is worth trying as it may...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Blenders List - please do add

    I don't think you'll find many people consider Exaltolide and Veramoss low impact materials.

    Besides, this definition of a blender as a low impact filler is sloppy and redundant. Being a blender...
  97. Replies
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    Re: My first (proper) formula

    I don't have civet at hand so I can't blend the Ambrein accord but I assume it is rather good.

    Now, your formula doesn't hint upon a large dose of radiant materials so the very high Hedione...
  98. Replies
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    Re: How many materials?

    For my current travel I had to restrict myself to 168 materials, and it was pain. Nonetheless, I could imagine to work with only 100 or less provided some of them were sufficiently rich.
  99. Replies
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    Re: Yes... its an Aventus inspired formula

    BAGreat, isn't virtually every recent perfume of any notice composed over a monolith such as this one? I don't enjoy these that much, they remind me of a throbbing ache of one sort or another. It...
  100. Replies
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    Re: Which rose oil to add to Amouage tribute?

    I have no problem to go against the stream but to my nose Tribute is complete and, if applied sparingly, quite wearable.
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