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  1. Re: What exactly is the “old lady” smell?

    Fascinating thread :) lotsa informed comments.

    My initial thought, (echoed in one of the first posts), was 'chypre'.

    It's a ballsy, deep multi-faceted structure that many perfumes my mother and...
  2. Re: How to "perk up" Terre d'Hermes parfum?

    I agree. I own a couple of bottles of original TdH, which I think is a great fragrance, also a bottle of the TdH Parfum. They work well together, but I do think the original Eau d'Hermes and some of...
  3. Re: can you recommend me some Extremely COOLing pine or fir perfume ?

    + 1 for Granville & Fou d'Absinthe - have worked my way thru a few bottles of each in summer here.
  4. Re: Can you identify L'Heure Bleue EdT vs EdP if label missing?

    If it's a recent bottle then chances are the EdT will be brighter and project more (for a short time) and the EdP will will be slightly 'denser' and hold on for a bit longer . . . slightly less...
  5. Re: Which houses in your collection do you have 3 or more bottles so far

    In order of how many (more or less).

    Frederic Malle
    Annick Goutal
  6. Replies

    Re: Best mens floral fragrance?

    Yup, first two that spring to mind.

    Lyric Man, APOM Homme, C&S No.88, Black Aoud also worth a look.
  7. Re: Like Chanel Eau de Cologne, but more floral? A unisex citrus/floral/musk

    Might be worth checking out the Guerlain EdC'c - esp. Imperiale & Cologne du Parfumeur.
  8. Poll: Re: Men wearing Female Fragrances: What is the big deal?

    No big deal. Actually, if you get your hands on some of the 'femme' chypres from around the 50's / 60's / 70's you'll find them to be way ballsier than a lot of the 'homme' vanilla candle confections...
  9. Re: Top niche every beginner should sample (follow up)

    I believe Cuir d'Oranger was discontinued a few years back. I have a bottle tucked away, finished my first one. It's quite unique - refreshing citrus leather - it just works :) I spoke to a lady at...
  10. Re: Top niche every beginner should sample (follow up)

    That's a great list to kick off . . . and some other good suggestions.

    I guess if I was sitting someone down to 'experience' what's out there I'd pull out (not necessarily in this order):

  11. Re: Guerlain Jicky is Disgusting, Horrible and Vile, OMG

    Jicky (and, to an extent Mouchoir de Monsieur) are two of the few out there that still retain synthetic civet as part of the composition. Can be a bit of a shock first time around, for sure, but it...
  12. Replies

    Re: Your Personal Unicorn. What is it?

    Patou Pour Homme - managed to find a 60ml bottle and 3 x minis a few years ago at very reasonable price from a guy who had a shop in HK. It's hard to define this one - 'elegant and of another era.' ...
  13. Replies

    Re: The Best Fragrance Of All Time

    Well, I'm with L'Aventurier 100% :)

    L'Heure Bleue is perfection - an impressionistic masterpiece.

    I still have a coupla bottles of Sous le Vent locked away - my favourite summer number. Well,...
  14. Replies

    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    Hi there! I bought mine when it was first released, several years ago. I only wear Homage & Tribute for special occasions (sorta - if the mood takes me) and since Lane Crawford stopped stocking...
  15. Replies

    Re: Amouage Tribute Attar

    I own the original White Box Homage & first release of Tribute. Both exquisite.

    I would happily sign some form of 'Held Harmless' clause as part of an online order for Amouage Oman if I could...
  16. Re: Your Top-5 of the Most Underrated and Criminally Discontinued Fragrances of All-Time.

    'Underrated' is sort of tough - subjective to an extent, so I'll just stick to criminally discontinued :) I still have all of these but pre-lament the day when they are finished . . .

  17. Replies

    Re: Your Favorite Dark Rose for Males

    Black Aoud & No. 88 both personal faves.

    I also enjoy both Amouage Lyric Man & Woman. Man more 'classic' masculine but Woman quite a dense, jammy, dark rose, certainly not 'girly, fruity floral'...
  18. Re: Favorite white florals that are more masculine-ish

    L'Eau d'Hiver (Frederic Malle) is a winter fave for me - Ellena's homage to Apres l'Ondée. A quite 'dry' take on heliotrope.

    Fleur de Cassie (Frederic Malle). Louche 1930's Parisien salon vibe -...
  19. Re: Fougere Follies: The Rise of the "Luxury" Fougere

    Great topic, many insightful comments - a pleasure to read!

    I don't have much to add apart from the fact that I really enjoy the 'classic' fougere style and can offer a few personal faves that,...
  20. Replies

    Re: The Best of Wasser-Era Guerlain

    Agree. Slight digression from topic but I would also include the late, great Vero Kern in this category. She seems to pay homage to Jacques Guerlain with a lot of her works, albeit with a modern...
  21. Replies

    Re: How good is MPG Santal Noble???

    Excellent IMO. Not a pure sandalwood, by any means, but superb. Onto my third bottle . . . great in cooler months.
  22. Replies

    Re: The Best of Wasser-Era Guerlain

    I think Wasser has made a terrific contribution to Guerlain.

    I have gone thru literally a litre of Cologne du Parfumeur since it appeared. Onto my second bottle of Lui. The Deserts Trio were great...
  23. Re: Does A Fragrance Exist That Literally Just Smells Like Cigars?

    C&S Cuba is worth a sniff.
  24. Replies

    Re: Any Good Newish Sandalwoods ?

    Diptyque Tam Dao EdP is the most recent I have come across - very good interpretation of santalum album, albeit a 'replicant'. I don't like Tam Dao EdT at all, though - nothing to do with sandalwood...
  25. Replies

    Re: Your favorite Serge Lutens????

    I own a dozen or so Lutens but if I had to pick one it would be Feminite du Bois, which was the one that sort of started it all.

    I love Arabie for its depth and Daim Blond, an unusual 'non sticky'...
  26. Re: Jean-Claude Ellena, a look back at his years at Hermès

    Still waiting for his new Rose Cuir one with Frederic Malle to arrive on shelves here in HK :)

    It was strange reading my post earlier in the thread - sentiments are the same but already 5 years?...
  27. Replies

    Re: On the hunt for a new fougere

    1725 from HdP is a friendly Invasion Barbare - nice stuff.

    Morabito's Or Black is a great 'dry' fougere.

    Amouage Opus II is a personal fave - spiced fougere.

    Other good suggestions above, I...
  28. Replies

    Re: Spring Mint Suggestions?

    Yup - saved me some writing :)

    L;Artisan Eau is nice - similar to Herba Fresca.
    Nicolai Pour Homme is a great lavender fougere with an icy mint open that sticks around nicely.
    Memoir Man! The...
  29. Re: Sorting through the Diptyque house, list your favorites and best iyo!

    Volutes EdT
    Tam Dao EdP
    Eau Lente
  30. Replies

    Re: osmanthus ,any recommend?

    Miyako is great stuff - been thru 2 bottles.

    Strongly reccomend Kimonanthe from Diptyque . . . I need to pick up another bottle come to think of it!

    The Different Company Osmanthus is lovely -...
  31. Re: What are the 5 best fresh niche fragrances?

    Yup - I completely missed the 'fresh' bit in the title. Apologies for that.

    So, fresh niche? I'm at a bit of a loss there . . . watch this space :)
  32. Re: Perfumes you tried recently that have been utter disappointments

    Most :laugh:

    That said, amongst recent releases I quite like the Dior Spice thing and will revisit a couple of the Celines - Reptile & Black Tie (?) seemed interesting.
  33. Replies

    Re: Chanel Egoiste vs Bois des Iles

    Bois des Iles is great - I bought both the EdT and the Parfum several years ago.

    The Chanel aldehyde thing doesn't worry me - it disappears pretty quickly and then you're left with a classy...
  34. Re: Amouage: what do you think is the sleeper or under-rated of the line?

    Opus II is worth a look.

    To me it's a terrific Spiced Fougere - great for summer days. If you enjoy Idole de Lubin (Giacobetti) or Myrrhe et Délires (Guerlain) this one could work for you.
  35. Re: What are the 5 best fresh niche fragrances?

    Difficult - these 5 are personal 'unique' faves . . . not borrowing from any particular genre.

    Tauer - LADDM
    Amouage - Homage Attar
    Malle - Une Fleur de Cassie
    La Via del Profumo - Balsamico...
  36. Re: Your Fragrances of the Year This Past Decade (Most Worn)

    Can't do a year by year thing but, without a doubt, the last decade has seen a lot of action (i.e. a few bottles finished) from:

    Dior Granville
    Guerlain Sous le Vent / Eau d'Imperiale / Cologne...
  37. Re: how to describe the scent of Myrrh in words? Any typical myrrh perfumes you recommend?

    Not easy to put into words, really . . .

    Guerlain Myrrhe et Delirés worth a shot - a good hot weather take on the idea.
  38. Replies

    Re: A Citrus Exploration

    Guerlain Eau d'Imperiale & Chanel EdC are both terrific, I'd venture to say classics, but obviously relatively fleeting. TDC Bergamote is great stuff as well.

    Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte is also...
  39. Replies

    Re: question about 'Fougeres'

    Patrick is a lovely, classic, simple 'fougere'. If you like it I would recommend trying Guerlain Eau d' Imperiale EDC.
  40. Re: perfume containing real mysore sandalwood ?

    I find IUNX L'Arbre to be one of the best sandalwood prominent I have come across. Difficult to get tho - you'll need to get someone to buy it Paris at IUNX store, altho I believe you MAY be able to...
  41. Re: Best all season perfume for tropical climate (India)

    Agree that a Vetiver would be good!

    I'm in HK, so several months we are in the 30c+ area. I go for simple EDC's - Guerlain have a few good uns - Cologne du Parfumeur is great, also Eau de...
  42. Replies

    Re: Similar to L'Air du Desert Marocain

    I find LADDM to be quite unique - I haven't tried the recent 'flanker' version (would like to!), but don't see any real similarity with Interlude, Chergui etc.

    That said - if you like LADDM you...
  43. Replies

    Re: Favorite pine/fir scents

    I would go for Norne based on what you're after.

    Personally I like:

    Pino Sylvestre
    Fou d'Absinthe
    Filles en Aiguilles
    Granville - also mildly pine / garrigue for summer.
  44. Re: looking for the best masculine chocolate fragrance

    Yup, this is the one. Also Lutens Borneo well worth a shot :)
  45. Re: The BEST Niche (top of the line) HORSE fragrance house for Men?

    Another vote for L'Heure Fougueuse from Mahilde Laurent at Cartier - wonderful piece of work.
  46. Re: A Niche snob looking for winter fragrances for everyday use

    Yohji Homme
    L'Eau d'Hiver

    Both riffs on the fougere approach - good for daily wear. I take one or the other for business trips in winter.

    Granville also nice - pine / garrigue.
    Santal Noble -...
  47. Replies

    Re: back-ups , which and how many

    1: what was the first scent you bought back-up bottle(s) of?

    Sous le Vent / Guerlain

    2: what is the latest scent you have bought back-up bottle(s) of?

    Yohji Homme

    3: what is the scent...
  48. Replies

    Re: Similar to Cuir Beluga

    I own Cuir Beluga and it's pretty unique . . . the closest I can think of is Daim Blond / Lutens. It doesn't have the intense vanilla sweetness but it's definitiely a 'soft suedey leather'.
  49. Replies

    Re: What Is Your Top Five As Of Right Now!

    I'll go by what I'm wearing most rather than a 'definitive' desert island list :) It's still hot and muggy here but Autumn is on the horizon.

    Philtre d'Amour - a terrific, uplifting chypre -...
  50. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Observations

    Cool - great story :)
  51. Re: Sandalwood - is there a gem I'm missing out on? Not sure where to look.


    Personal faves :) At the front Sandalwood Attar from Amouage (pretty much pure mysore oil) and the elusive Sandalo Inspiritu from DSH. I would add IUNX L'Arbre to this collection - picked...
  52. Re: What time period do you consider "The Golden Age" of Fragrances?

    Yup :)
  53. Re: Sandalwood - is there a gem I'm missing out on? Not sure where to look.

    You just described me, too :)

    I still have a couple of old bottles with a bit left in them from the 80's before the sandalwood disappeared and it devolved into 'soap'.

    Re: original question, I...
  54. Replies

    Re: Guerlain Lui is underrated

    Agree. I grabbed a bottle when it came out and really enjoyed the crisp carnation - almost a 'dusty peppery nasturtium flower' vibe (if you've ever had nasturtium in a salad you'll know what I mean)....
  55. Replies

    Re: What Is Your Top 5 As Of Right Now?

    Summer temps are kicking in here, along with serious humidity, so . . .

    Granville (Dior)
    Vintage Monsieur Balmain
    Myrrhe et Delirés (Guerlain)
    Vetiver Pour Elle (Guerlain)
    Aveda Body Spray...
  56. Replies

    Re: Lutens Vetiver orientl

    The original was very interesting, vetiver with a uniquely deep Lutensian twist.

    I have tried the recent version a couple of times and find it a bit characterless by comparison but would...
  57. Re: Fragrances with a dominant 'dried fruits' note

    Big fan of Arabie and some of the other Lutens mentioned, esp. Feminite du Bois.

    Slumberhouse SOVA leans in this direction - might be worth checking out.

    Also at a (BIG) stretch, Hermessences...
  58. Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Nice list!

    I'd add Granville / Dior and Fou d'Absinthe / L'Artisan Parfumeurs.
  59. Re: top 5 most BEAUTIFUL perfumes you have smelled


    Also the original Homage Attar from Amouage and the original Sacrebleu from Nicolai . . .
  60. Replies

    Re: best bergamot scent

    TDC Bergamote is good, also Eau de Guerlain BUT bergamote is a 'top note' so neither lasts long. Atelier do citrus styled stuff with a bit more heft - worth checking out their line.
  61. Re: Best use of Lemon Verbena in a men's frag?

    Well, I love this leaf but I am not sure if it is used in these personal faves . . . sorta 'feels' like it to me.

    Eau de Guerlain and (the now discontinued) Philtre d'Amour both have a wonderful,...
  62. Replies

    Re: Death/Scent

    Fascinating article! I guess the more 'sticky' resins etc. are obvious enough . . .honey, myrrhe, frankincense et. al.

    I'll go with them but please just pour all my remaining L'Heure Bleue vintage...
  63. Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Hi. Maurice Roucel was out here in HK just a few months ago to launch 2 perfumes he created for a friend of mine. (I bought the Osmanthus Tea one). Symrise had a nice poster in the gallery space...
  64. Re: The 10 Best Fragrances You've Ever Smelled

    Difficult :)

    L'Heure Bleue
    Apres l'Ondee
    Sous le Vent
    Patou Pour Homme
    Malle Une Fleur de Cassie
    MDCI Chypre Palatin
  65. Replies

    Re: who has Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental?

    I tried the original a few times about 10 years ago and was almost tempted to buy it but didn't, and then it disappeared for awhile.

    I tried the new re-issue a couple of times just recently when...
  66. Replies

    Re: Green fragrance for hot weather

    Granville (Dior) is my personal fave (well, along with Sous le Vent, which is hard to find)

    The newish Chanel Eau Paris-Deauville is also nice, similar to Guerlain AA Herba Fresca (both have a...
  67. Replies

    Re: In praise of Patou pour Homme

    I have a bottle at home, 60ml I think, and also a smaller one, maybe 15ml at the office. Just did a generous splash after reading this post to remind myself how good it is. IMO it just has a blend...
  68. Replies

    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    To a large extent I think, yes. It's understandable that some are re-formulated due to EU regs / IFRA etc. - and I guess most brands 're-package' from time to time. That said, I picked up 50ml...
  69. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    I recommend anyone who can to try the earlier AdP Profumo (red box). It has a lot of 'heft' and IMO is a 'plummy' Mitsouko. Beautiful stuff.
  70. Re: Any perfumes smell like Derby by Guerlain (2012)?

    Not really - Hermes Bel Ami might be worth a a look? More 'leather' (kinda) but not a million miles away from Derby.

    And if you can find some original Patou Pour Homme that might also put a smile...
  71. Re: How many designer brands have their own in-house perfumers?

    Prada - not sure if she is exclusive to Prada but Daniela Andrier does a lot terrific work for the brand.
  72. Re: Are we certain that this hobby is safe?

    Fair question and more than answered above, I think. If you're really concerned just spray on cloth / scarf / pocket square whatevs?

    On the EU / IFRA thing. I suspect it will never end - there...
  73. Re: Guerlain experts - does this label look authentic to you?

    Yup - the original 'melancholic' heliotrope et al version has gone, replaced by more of an iris /violet thing. Still nice but not really Al'O, sadly. This happened just a few years ago.
  74. Replies

    Re: Best Bergamote scent ??

    I'm with hednic on this, The Different Company Bergamote is a nice one!

    Le Labo is also good but I prefer the shampoo and shower gel of that one to the actual EdT.
  75. Replies

    Re: Chanel Jersey Parfum

    I didn't know there was a Parfum version - will check it out! Thanks :)

    I like it but not enough to buy (yet) given I have Caron Pour Homme, MdM, Jicky and Kiki - all of which scratch my lavender...
  76. Re: Maurice Roucel: Smoker, Athlete, Genius, Perfumer

    Mr. pluran - quel horreur - she stole the CD's? I'll dig in and find your address (or shoot me a message) and fix that problem.

    Mikeperez - lol - HKD 640 = USD 80 :) Be still your beating heart,...
  77. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Cool :) I like it but it does seem to 'miss' a little for the reasons you mention compared to 'vintish' Roudnitska. Nice it saw the light of day even if slightly 'tweaked' for IFRA regs.
  78. Re: Soft greenish incense perfume without any smoke?

    Try Yerbamate from Lorenzo Villoresi . . . worth a shot.
  79. Re: Please recommend me some spicy frags for hot seasons

    Costume National Homme
    Guerlain - Myrrhe et Délires
    Amouage - Opus II
    Lubin - Idole
  80. Re: Maurice Roucel: Smoker, Athlete, Genius, Perfumer

    He's a cool guy. Met him a coupla months ago - he was here with Symrise people launching 2 perfumes he created for a friend of mine. Nice chat - totally straight up, wish we had more time to talk. I...
  81. Replies

    Re: Best Rotting Flowers

    Yup - this was gonna be my pick when I saw the Thread title!

    In a good way, mind you - sort of 'musty' and 'provocative' in a closed salon environment kinda way . . . makes me think of 1930's...
  82. Re: What is the happiest fragrance you know?

    Amouage Homage Attar (the orginal)

    HdP 1969 :)
  83. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Any thoughts about the 're-constituted' Parfum de Therese, the Roudnitska Jnr. gave to Malle for his line?
  84. Replies

    Re: Costume National Homme

    I grabbed a bottle when it came out - good stuff! The spiced clove / cinnamon whatever angle is refreshing and, initially, a bit challenging - but that's cool, it's not a wimp! Half a bottle left,...
  85. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Nice topic!

    I don't know a lot of fruity chypres but a couple of suggestions.

    It's not a 'grande old dame' but the elusive Acqua di Parma Profumo in it's original formulation is a magnificent...
  86. Replies

    Re: Sweet with Patchouli Base

    Coromandel, for sure and Borneo 1834, for a 'darker' (less sweet) choc top.

    If you want to for an even deeper, richer Cacao and Patch try L'Heure Défendue VII from Cartier - absolutely magnificent...
  87. Replies

    Re: Hermès Un Jardin sur la Lagune

    Cool - let's see what she does! I tried to like this series but the backstory was generally way more interesting than the actual scent.
  88. Replies

    Re: Epice Marine

    Agree with the lineage / provenance 100% ! Very perceptive. I bought the 15ml and was pleasantly surprised despite my loathing of cumin! It's not shy but the mix makes sense - inspired partly by...
  89. Replies

    Re: Chanel Deauville Dry down

    I can't comment on anything with a similar bottom-line but interesting to see this one mentioned here!

    I am a big fan of Dior Granville (piney garrigue) and when I saw this I figured I'd grab a...
  90. Replies

    Re: Let's post some vintage fragrance pics


    I was fortunate enough to buy 30 ml. of this L'HB from our old friend Sorcery of Scent a couple of years ago. It's a stunning deep, solid version from the 1940's, I believe.

  91. Replies

    Re: Your Life In 5 Fragrances

    70's: Mysore Santalum Album Essential Oil (from India - the real deal)

    The local head shop owner used to import stuff - I couldn't stand the overiding Patchouli Oil craze and was fortunate to...
  92. Replies

    Re: LT is right thread


    LT is always 100% right - he da man :thumbsup::coolold: Tania is too!
  93. Re: Maison Francis Kurkdjian's latest Duo Releases!

    Tried 'em both on paper yesterday.

    One was quite a nice slight;y powdery thing, happy to revisit.

    The other struck me as a bit 'sharp' and soul-less . . .

    Can't remember which was which,...
  94. Re: With all of the reformulations...what classic fragrances are still worth picking up?

    Not sure if these are 'classics' but both were discontinued a good few years back and have been re-released.

    Yohji Homme (the tall cylindical bottle) is excellent - if you can find it! Tokyo...
  95. Re: great fragrances with horrible topnote that you just have to wait through to get to the good par

    I've been revisiting Malle's Music for a Wile this weekend and still reach the same conclusion - the first hour or so is a ghastly, sticky mess (the "pineapple?") but the next few hours are great -...
  96. Re: Has another person's review changed your opinion on a scent you enjoyed/disliked?

    Diamondflame's championing of Serge Noir got me to revisit it and see it from a different perspective altogether. I hated it when it was released - thought it was a bad joke. A year or two later I...
  97. Re: If you could rebuild your collection and set a 20 bottle limit, what would you buy?

    Sous le Vent
    L'Heure Fougueuse
    Caron Pour Un Homme
    Feminite du Bois
    L'Heure Bleue
    Chypre Palatin (original)
    L'Eau d'Hiver
  98. Replies

    Re: Edmond Roudnitska's Unknown Lubin Fragrance Re-Created

  99. Replies

    Re: Hermes Terre de Hermes

    The original EdT was great - a pale shadow of what it once was now, unfortunately. I also like the Parfum - bought it when it came out, dunno if it has been diluted since???
  100. Re: The Big Issue - Wearing The Other Gender ?

    Non issue, frankly.

    Honestly, there are a host of chypres / leathers / orientals marketed as 'femme' from the last few decades that are as ballsy as Derby and other fragrances marketed as 'homme'...
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