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  1. Re: Have Reformulations ruined fragrances? : Dior Homme, Chergui, Timbuktu?

    I think the trouble starts when you fall in love with a fragrance, or even just get used to it, and the next time you buy it, it has changed. Doesn't matter if it is "better" or "worse" it is...
  2. Re: Making A Formula From A GC/MS Analysis

    And Essential oils, and the Headspace of a flower and anything else that is a mixture of volatile chemicals.
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    Re: Sulfur Musks

    So Nizan, you have smelled these? If you haven't, how can you say you like them?
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    Re: Looking for a "Tar" note

    The chemical responsible for Thyme is Thymol; for Origanum it is Carvacrol. Both have, to me, a Tar note. Glad to hear it fits the bill.
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    Re: Looking for a "Tar" note

    Have you thought about using Thyme or Origanum oils?
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    Re: Room Air Freshner Spray

    If yo want to buy a Soap fragrance; then ask for a Soap fragrance.
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    Re: Question about Sandaxol

    I only ever give my opinion. Could be this sample has been contaminated. Or it could that that is what it is supposed to smell like.
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    Re: Room Air Freshner Spray

    There is no point in buying any fragrance of the shelf and putting it into any end product to choose. Fragrances are designed for each end product. If the fragrances you have bought were designed...
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    Re: Question about Sandaxol

    In my experience this is a pretty mild sandalwood note; no funk at all. Check quality, your sample could be bad.
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    Re: Sandalwood Challenge

    Sandalwood with Rose and Saffron, is very a very common accord in Indian fragrances.
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    Re: How to "clean" essential oil

    I have no idea. I do know that Clove Bud Oil should be left for at least 6 months, and it is probably a good idea to leave it longer. Maybe it is the same for Lavender, and the other oils too.
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    Re: Room Air Freshner Spray

    Try it and see. There is never a simple answer as everything depends on everything else.
  13. Re: Advice on Adding "Polish" to My First Fragrance

    It really depends on what you want to achieve. Base notes will "fix" the fragrance but, often, as a result the performance and strength suffer. Whilst there is no fixed ratio, I would have...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Not that long ago I thought that nothing passed through our skin, as it had evolved to protect us from the outside. I now realise that there are a few chemicals that can pass through healthy,...
  15. Re: Advice on Adding "Polish" to My First Fragrance

    Way too much Base note in all three, they will all smell muddy and flat. Have you spent some time getting to know the individual materials you have? Do you know which ones are Top notes, Middle...
  16. Re: What's the most annoying, screechy, metallic(?), synthetic smelling frag you know of?

    Anything by Boss.
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    Re: canoe by dana

    Canoe, the inspiration for the original Brut. And who says men can't wear "feminine" fragrances?
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    Re: How to "clean" essential oil

    I note that the Norfolk distillers recommend leaving the Lavender oil for a year before it is used.
  19. Re: Any suggestions for creating Reed Diffuser fragrances?

    If the Fragrance house you use is any good they will already know how to create a Reed Diffuser fragrance, and will have the facilities to test them properly. Have you spoken to them about this...
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    Re: Room Air Freshner Spray

    If you want you can just make an alcoholic solution of any fragrance and use it as a Room Spray. The usual concentration is between 2.0% and 5.0%. The usual restriction on the formula is price. ...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Dr SmellThis, you seem to be getting increasingly angry over this subject, I think it best if we call it a day.
  22. Thread: Eo/po/ac?

    by David Ruskin
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    Re: Eo/po/ac?

    Doh!!!
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    Re: Reed diffuser carrier

    See my reply in your other thread.
  24. Re: Any suggestions for creating Reed Diffuser fragrances?

    No idea what Augeo clean multi may be, but when I Googled it I found that it was a solvent mix. It does not seem to be very volatile, so I doubt if it will be useful for Reed Diffusers.

    I will...
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    Re: How to "clean" essential oil

    You don't have to leave your freshly distilled oil open, it will just evaporate away. However, you should leave it for several weeks, and then smell it again.

    By "not distilled properly" I meant...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    This from post 41 "If someone wants to debate me on that (Aromatherapy) they will not win, because all I will do is cite studies, and they will find themselves in an uncomfortable position of having...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    And I may be wrong but the Nicotine patch works due to the presence of other chemicals which aid passage across the skin.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Could you let us know which Oils, and indeed which chemicals found in those oils, are the ones that are absorbed through the skin; subcutaneously? And could you provide us with the proof that this...
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    You will have another take on Tuberose. Why not try it and see?
  30. Thread: Eo/po/ac?

    by David Ruskin
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    Re: Eo/po/ac?

    EO=Essential Oil
    PO= Perfume Oil (?)
    AC+ Aromachemical
  31. Re: What notes do you get from Johnson's Baby Oil?

    Geranium, Lavender, Bergamot, Ylang, Ionones, Benzoin, Musks, Heliotropin, Vanillin, Jasmin. And much much more.
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    Re: What frags are "Antiseptic"?

    Hear hear ; there should be.:thumbsup:
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    I merely quoted the formula. Not all of the Hydroxycitronellal and Methyl Anthranilate will react, there will still be some free in solution. Using Auratiol, will give a different result.
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    Re: How to "clean" essential oil

    Freshly distilled oils often smell bad. The worst oil I have smelled, freshly distilled, is Clove Bud; really nasty. Leave your oils for a fees weeks and they should smell much better. ...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    I have not ignored your posts but have replied to each one directed at me.

    I have not twisted anything you have defined, I merely gave my own definition.

    I have not misrepresented any link...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    The papers you mention seem fine to me, although I haven't read them. I am not doubting at all and am prepared to be as objective as I can be. When I read these papers, I will be better able to...
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    Re: Need help with a Tuberose accord

    Eventually.
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    Re: What frags are "Antiseptic"?

    Eau de T'tol
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    Re: Shelf lives

    p Cymene is often the chemical that is left when other Terpenes have oxidised; especially Limonene. pCymene is very stable, and so accumulates.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    To Dr SmellThis
    That certain plant derived chemicals have an effect on the metabolism of animals is beyond doubt. What is being doubted is the effect that simply smelling those plant derived...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    A synthetic Sandalwood smelling chemical has an effect on isolated skin cells, in a test tube. The fact that you can smell Sandalore has nothing whatsoever to do with this.

    Sorry, nemenator,...
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    Re: Drom fragrances

    I no longer work, so can only answer as a consumer. Most of the fragrances produced by the big guys (IFF, Givaudan etc.) seem to me to be pretty boring; designed by committee. Some of the niche...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Dr SmellThis, thank you so much for providing us with a list of references. I hadn't looked at them before, and have skimmed them now. I will, at a later date, read them more thoroughly. I...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    "Two countries divided by a single language".
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    Re: Drom fragrances

    1) You cannot compete on price alone. You have to find something else, something that an independent perfumer has that a large organisation doesn't.

    2) No. Different, not better.

    Welcome...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Excellent that you say you are able to provide proof of the efficacy of Aroma Therapy by quoting scientific papers. Maybe, on a separate thread you will do so.
  47. Re: So I'm thinking of doing a Scent Analysis...

    A GC/MS analysis will provide a list of chemicals, and the amounts present. Depending on how good the analysis is (and how good the analyst is) so the list of chemicals will be more or less...
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    Re: Drom fragrances

    Drom are not that big. They produce fragrances for some customers, but IFF, Givaudan, Firmenich and Symrise produce much, much more.
  49. Re: Ethanol + Hedione + Iso E ? Where to start...?

    Hedione does have a smell; it smells light and floral with a hint of citrus. It is not that strong, however its effect is enormous. I think Eau Sauvage was the first fragrance to use Hedione,...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    It is Coriander Leaf oil that you need, the Seed Oil smells nothing like it. The seed oil contains lots of Linalol. It is the Leaf used in Thai cooking, and it has a very green aldehydic odour.
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    Re: What frags are "Antiseptic"?

    OK, I'll shut up.
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    Re: What frags are "Antiseptic"?

    Something that smells antiseptic, or something that is antiseptic? Several Essential Oils show antiseptic properties including, Thyme, Origanum, Sandalwood, and Patchouli. There are others.
  53. Re: When Your Skin Smells Sandalwood Oil, It Heals Itself

    He is American, I believe. Never heard of Synesthesia applied to the sense of smell, but why not. Kandinsky claimed that he heard colours.
  54. Re: Need Help with Solubility for Helional/Methyl Anthranilate Schiff Base

    I seem to recall that in the previous thread about Schiff's bases when ever I made a comment I was ignored. If this is not true, I apologise.
  55. Re: Disappointment with mixing fo, eo, and aroma chemicals

    The first thing you have to do is become familiar with the individual ingredients you will be using. As synthetics are simpler (an Essential Oil can contain hundreds of chemicals) it is easier to...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Just use whatever you need to make what you want, and are happy with. If you want to use a mix of chemicals produced by a plant, and extracted by steam distillation, then good for you. If you can...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    Oh mumsy, what are you like.
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    Re: Ylang Ylang accord help

    S you are going away from reality and accepting fantasy. Good for you.
  59. Re: Need Help with Solubility for Helional/Methyl Anthranilate Schiff Base

    It's because you know damn all about Organic Chemistry, and ignore the advice given to you by those who do know.
  60. Re: Disappointment with mixing fo, eo, and aroma chemicals

    It's because you don't know enough about Perfumery to make a decent blend. Don't claim your raw materials until you check out your ability.
  61. Re: Clarification on cinnamon aromachemicals?

    I think they have a similar smell. OOOPS!! Database??
  62. Re: When Your Skin Smells Sandalwood Oil, It Heals Itself

    So, mixing skin cells with Sandalore causes the cells to divide. So, the action of Sandalore upon skin cells causes them to divide. And this is called smelling?

    Seems to me that in this...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    You are right Pears. As Sir Mick once opined, "What a drag it is getting old".
  64. Re: Acetophenone reactivity? Also a question about acetates...

    I have never had a problem using Acetophenone in a fragrance. Similarly iso Amyl Acetate is as stable as any other ester, and is used extensively..
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    Re: Ylang Ylang accord help

    There is about 8.0% para Cresyl Methyl Ether in Ylang, about 5.0% Methyl Benzoate. Increase the Eugenol and add some Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol. Also Prenyl Acetate is present. about 0.5%
  66. Re: Clarification on cinnamon aromachemicals?

    You could try Phenyl Propyl Alcohol, if you can get it. Similar to Cinnamic Alcohol but less reactive, and so less of a sensitiser. TGSD is The Good Scents Guide.
  67. Re: Clarification on cinnamon aromachemicals?

    Cinnamic Alcohol and Cinnamyl Alcohol are the same thing. The smell is indeed not true Cinnamon, and is more Fruity/Floral. Cinnamic Aldehyde is the major component of Cinnamon Bark Oil, and is...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    A mix of Kaffir Lime, Lemongrass, Coriander Leaf, and Coconut; with touches of Basil, Ginger, Galangal (if you can find it) and maybe a little Galbanum. That should make a good, typical Thai Green...
  69. Re: Turning a basic idea into a full fragrance....

    Post deleted.
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    Re: Sweet fruity top notes

    To get a good Fruity effect you need small touches of sulphurous chemicals such as Corps 1490, Oxathiane, Thiomenthone, Dimethyl Sulphide; as well as even smaller amounts of Butyric Acid, and some...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    You are assuming that all Aromachemicals are non-polar; this is just not true.
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    Re: Input on making a green floral scent?

    When I was a working Perfumer I always created from the Base note up to the Top. It is like painting a picture; first the opaque ground colours then the more transparent glazes. The glazes shine,...
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    Re: Input on making a green floral scent?

    Way too much Hexenol and Violet Leaf Absolute. You need to take things slowly. Your idea sounds good, now you need to learn how to turn it from an idea into reality. How about your Green...
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    Re: Dodgy 'tobacco absolute'?

    That sounds very plausible. If its water soluble in ain't no good for Perfumery.
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    Re: Dodgy 'tobacco absolute'?

    Behave yourself!!
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    The actual sampling is dead easy; I've done it myself so it must be!! The analysis is another matter.
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    I own "The Scent of Orchids" by Roman Kaiser. He describes, in not great detail, the process of Headspace analysis. He mentions an "adsorption trap" but does not describe it clearly. I gather...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    An inert powder such as talc, or cellulose would be the best option. There is a method for extracting fragrances from solids that uses this technique. It is called a Soxhlet extractor.
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    Surely you are using the talc in the same way as you use fat in conventional enfleurage. Once the aromachemicals have been adsorbed onto talc, a more suitable solvent is used to remove those...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    No. The majority of Aromachemicals are not water soluble.
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    Scenting powders is indeed a difficult thing to do. Because of the large surface area, everything is prone to oxidation. Many Ingredients just disappear. Not sure how effective using an inert...
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    Re: IFRA-safe wormwood equivalent?

    Just Googled "Wormwood Oil", "Wormwood Essential Oil", "Wormwood Essential Oil in Perfumery". No mention of the Oil being banned in any of them.
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    Re: IFRA-safe wormwood equivalent?

    I've just looked at the two IFRA posts on the DIY Forum. No mention of Wormwood or Thujone on either of them.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    I bow to your practical expertise. However, banned or not, Acetyl Methyl Carbinol is a good substitute for Diacetyl.
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    Re: Meyer Lemon EO Cold Pressed

    Sinensal for Orange, and Neutkatone for Grapefruit. Both very expensive, but a tiny amount works miracles.
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    Re: Using absolutes directly

    The only time you need to add a solvent is if the Absolute (or indeed any solute) is too hard to handle, to viscous , or too strong.
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    Re: IFRA-safe wormwood equivalent?

    On another post concerning Wormwood I suggested, as a substitute, Armoise Oil, Artemesia Oil, Cedarleaf Oil, or even Sage Oil. Apparently , I was ignored.
  88. Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I'm amazed. You mean the companies that spend millions on the production of a fragrance don't provide the formula for free? Astounding!!
  89. Replies
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    Putting anything into Sodium Bicarbonate will cause problems. How many more times?
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    Re: Very simple accords?

    You have said you live in the UK. There is no problem getting any aromachem you want.
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    Re: Reformulation later?

    Chresto, you say you live in the UK. You have no problem at all buying any ingredient you care to buy.
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    Re: Forming acetals

    You can easily buy Iso Amyl Salicyate; smells pretty similar to the "n" version.
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    Re: Diethylphthalate?

    Thanks for repeating what I wrote above.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    Srawberriff is a very useful chemical for a true Strawberry. It provides a sourness which counteracts the sticky sweetness that can often spoil a mix.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    Diacetyl is banned in America, but is OK to use in Europe. Try Acetyl Methyl Carbinol instead. Also a Buttery chemical, but unrestricted.
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    Re: Can't find Poucher's book online

    That is Aldehyde C16
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    Re: Powerful Arabian oud note

    A "Givco" is a blend which is trying to duplicate the smell of a natural. Ditto the Firmenich base. As Dr S says, real Oud is very strong. And very expensive. If you can get it, a trace of...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Eternity for Men doesn't smell of Roses (to my nose it's another Cool Water/GIT knock off). Eternity, to me, smells of Damascones and Indol.
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    Re: Ifra booklet

    Benzyl Benzoate and Benzyl Alcohol are two of the 26 allergens, and as Pears mentioned, have nothing to do with IFRA. It is an EU requirement to label allergens if they are in your cosmetic product...
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    Re: Diethylphthalate?

    I think the original Old Spice fragrance is very underrated; it was a wonderful, complex Carnation based perfume. I have not smelled it for ages, and do not know Indian Old Spice (is this...
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