Oakmoss and treemoss together is the good stuff, treemoss only is horrible cinnamon chemical spill.
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Oakmoss and treemoss together is the good stuff, treemoss only is horrible cinnamon chemical spill.
Actually the glands are on those poor deer's tummies.
I have smelled real musk "grains" and they are pretty animalic! The synthetic civet I smelled was more funky though.
Maceration has a small effect, but it is no secret that manufacturers, especially designers, have cheapened formulas and been affected by IFRA regulations to a massive extent over the past decades....
Xeryus Rouge is what I would call a "fake flanker" -- a flanker only in name, while the frag has absolutely nothing to do with the original. I think it's vile.
Careful with Xeryus that's not in...
Yes, THAT GOOD. ;)
Lol thanks RM
Lol nope just got excited and wanted to set the record straight for future searchers trying to find the real scoop on this classic!
Original is definitely not in production, it's full of real oakmoss, jasmine etc. I would say the new stuff's not worth wearing while the old is a classic masterpiece and def worth picking up if you...
Wearing again for the first time in probably 2 years, this stuff is so great. That bitter artemisia makes such an amazing opening.
Vintage Xeryus (dark art deco bottle) is way, way better than any subsequent release.
Vintage Xeryus is incomparably better than the swill released subsequently in the clear bottles.
Sorry, that's completely wrong, at least in this case. Givenchy absolutely destroyed the masterpiece that was vintage Xeryus in the black art deco bottle. The newer stuff is thin and synthetic in...
I find it about average for big 80s EdTs -- relatively stronger in comparison to today's.
Some accurate comparisons here. I'll add Simon Chang Maestro and Halston Z-14 to the mix as very similar and somewhat similar, respectively.
The vintage art deco bottles' juice is a masterpiece,...
Wearing this again for the first time in a long time, that wormwood on the top is fabulous! I do see the connection to Yatagan with that, the conifers, lavender, and castoreum.
Chiming back in to say that yes indeed these are closely related frags.
Vintage Xeryus, as Bigsly pointed out, is far more natural and classical than the weird NRFH. I much prefer the former --...
It's about the same as the previous version. Both lack the depth and richness of the vintage art deco bottles.
Before 2000, Yatagan's oakmoss provided a lot more body. The new stuff smells bright but it is a bit lean and light, and the longevity isn't superb. I find I need to apply about 50% more than I used...
Vintage bottles are still fairly easy to find. I should know I've got several backups...
Agreed that the sandalwood is not a very big presence, but it does add some depth and richness.
Heritage is way powdery to my nose. Not a fan.
If you don't like clary sage you're gonna have an uncomfortable hour after spraying it on, that's for sure. The rose is quite subtle, but the patchouli comes out pretty strong once the herbs and...
Yes aldehydes definitely register as soapy to me too.
Agree it's light, green and daisy-like!
Wonderful sunflower absolute in the all-natural fragrance Bonte's Bloom, thought the amber base is a bit on the sweet side.
Sorry about the fraud James. This is why I recommend using escrow like PayPal along with credit cards for any online purchases. Good luck.
Thank you, looks exactly like my old bottle!
I get lavender too! Just wait for the incensey yet green and aromatic resinous drydown.
Do report back later! Picture would be great.
I'm not aware of any specific differences in the bottle.
The new stuff is all lemon & cinnamon and very brash, like floor cleaner. The old is woody and rich, with a light cinnamon touch.
Fossilized amber is a totally different product from Ambergris. It's basically petrified wood, not aged whale secretion.
Italian Cypress is more round and deep, but a little less edgy than Z-14; I think it's more coniferous and less animalic (castoreum). Nice composition though I don't find it 8x better (the price...
I tried some vintage 1983 juice and the difference with my 2009 bottle was minor, easily explained by aging and maceration. Thumbs up on 2005-2010 juice from me.
I'll be curious to hear your review of the new EdP. I could use another bottle so I don't run out of this highly enjoyable composition.
Thanks for the update scentimus. I haven't tried the newest juice.
"Man's Cologne" is most certainly discontinued -- I've never ever seen it new in a store, only at very out of the way shops and estate sales, where I got my bottles for a song. Great stuff. I don't...
I find the Man's Cologne differs significantly from the Pour Monsieur EdT, enough so to be considered a separate fragrance entirely. MC is sweeter with a juicy citrus top and much less growling...
I own this, and can confirm it is very different from Pour Monsieur, which is the pyramid hednic posted. I don't like PM at all, while I think MC is awesome! Very similar to the old classic Old Spice...
In naturals, some constituent molecules evaporate quickly (top notes) while some take longer. Ime, "base note" naturals contain top, heart, and base molecules, and "heart" naturals also contain top...
These pages will probably be able to answer your questions about that very rare old bottle! Where'd you score it by the way??
Thanks for reminding about this one! Can't wait to try it. Especially the amber, oud, and thyme combo has me so intrigued.
I get no patchouli from Sublime. Lots of dry cedar though. Definitely wearable by men -- I'd say it leans slightly feminine just because it's huge and has lots of beautiful florals.
My mini with gold cap says EDT on it. I don't think they made white caps for the minis.
Yo yo brutha!
Hm I never got any tobacco out of U1. Honey, patchouli, vetiver yes but no tobacco...
More citrus / less leather sounds nice.
Highly recommend trying A&L. It's great for when you want that herbal woody blast of Esencia without the long, creamy, dense, semisweet musky drydown.
I get a solid 5 hours plus 3 hrs skin scent from Amber & Lavender.
Wearing Amber & Lavender today, and it strikes me that it's basically Esencia Loewe with only a bit of amber & musk sweetness (despite the name...) and the addition of myrrh.
Amber & Lavender...
Wow, you got an email from Richard E Grant? One of my favorite actors of all time! The pyramid sounds great, can't wait to try it.
Heavy Sugar by Opus Oils is a superb aromatic dark amber & patchouli with a strong real ambergris presence. No bullshit ambroxan.
Thought so. Both of the pyramids could apply to my vintage bottle's juice:
Top notes: bergamot, lemon, Juniper berries, Spearmint, Thyme, rosemary, lime
Heart notes: nutmeg, galbanum, Pine...
Thanks hednic. Can you point us to a description of how the La Collection differs from the other two?
Wore my vintage bottle today! Love when that happens. I'm curious to try the new formula too.
Jumping back in to say that Axe Peace really delivers. You know it's a good frag when you start craving it. Fahrenheit is usually just too much for me to wear: huge musk, longlasting "leather" (an...
I find OA's longevity quite good, solid 8 hours. No vanilla, so longevity is shorter than in the M7 original.
I smelled several other Axe body sprays at the store and was actually impressed that they didn't smell terrible, but certainly nothing I'd ever buy. Until I smelled Peace, however. It kind of falls...
I find this a superb knockoff of Fahrenheit, with a lighter, leatherless drydown and much less longevity, but a solid 6 hours nonetheless. Like an EdC version of Fahrenheit. I prefer it to newer...
Just wore my sample of vintage Vol de Nuit parfum recently, amazing stuff!
Ha another obscure hednic gem! I'll have to try it someday.
Nope, I find LADDM much richer and sweeter in the drydown, vanillic, while EdR is crisp, woody, and aromatic. Nose broken ;)
Picked up a bottle of this and was quite disappointed. My wife likes it but to me, it's a very cheap and flat variation on Creed's pleasant Selection Verte, significantly harmed by that supposed...
Boss Sport is excellent, and much more unique than PR Sport. I find the original PRpH much more soapy than the Sport, I like the latter better for sure.
Good to see you here btw!! Nice old thread.
Pretty sure that's just the classic Dunhill for Men. ("London" is on the box because that's where the company is from.)
Thanks. Copying here:
"In terms of the original London..to start off I get just the faintest hint of citrus (not nearly as much as original for men), I am not sure if that was intentional or just...
Nope I don't get any galbanum from it. The drydown of mine was patchouli and musk dominated, possible slight amber warmth there to cut the sharpness. Not particularly smoky. Definitely reminiscent of...
I've got some Sport de PR (or PR Eau de Sport?) on right now, just finished my little sample vial I got from a BNer :). The top is a more citrusy variation on Eau de Rochas Homme, now it's getting a...
Thanks for your research and input Daniel.
Apparently the atropine or something is an allergen for some tiny segment of the population.
What a coincidence that you replied today, Chuck. I haven't worn Z-14 in many months and wore it today!
Was going to mention Eau des Iles. Try to find the vintage, but the new is good too. However, might have some old attic in it too from the moss.
NY All is definitely a sweet gourmande, very...
My dirtiest are
Heavy Sugar (by Opus Oils)
Baie de Genievre
Bond Harrods Oud
I found it too sweet. The Axe was a bit drier.
Hey Bigs, BS is a leathery fougere, this Axe and Jaipur are way more oriental...
Today the moving guy was wearing what I thought was Jaipur Homme, though it did smell a bit more dry and woody (vanilla turned down), very benzoin but not too sweet. But he said it was an...
Grant has fixed this. Thanks dude :)
Was talking to Grant about this and he fixed it! Works great for me now.
I don't get much smoke from Norne. In fact I don't think there is any cade or birch tar in it. I'm quite sensitive to smoke and dislike it, but I like Norne.
Definitely no fruit!
Eau des Iles -- not as stunning as vintage now it's missing the oakmoss, but still delightful
Grain de Plaisir -- beautiful green semisweet herbal anise scent. I turned Luca Turin onto this one...
Agreed. EdP is classic, dense, and smooth. Terrific juice. 10 sprays in Canada of all places? You must work in a giant warehouse . . .
Yeah Al Rehab doens't hold back on the animalic oud accords or musks.
Here are some more of my animalic favs that haven't gotten enough love on this thread yet.
It's an aromatic woody scent dominated by a cedar-angelica theme.
Therefore, definitively not a chypre.
I wouldn't call it a chypre -- not much labdanum if any.
Longevity perception in this one all depends on how well you can detect the musk. Some may be anosmic.
Thanks for your reviews rum
Press release mentions it's got a dollop of moonlight, wonder how they got it in the formula. #alchemy
You are so welcome! That's what this forum is all about. Wow, what a feeling huh? Sounds like some holy grail material!
I would love a candle that smells like the opening. All those lovely herb...
Fantastic, glad you took the plunge!
I find it's a naturalistic scent, very outdoorsy, but with a distinct musky drydown. I can imagine some might find that drydown difficult to perceive as it's...
Yep there's some amber to my nose here.
Loewe should do a flanker "Esencia Dry" with a more aromatic woody drydown instead of the sweetish amber musk!
Agree with you guys that Esencia's musk accord is clean, sweet and crisp rather than animalic.
Two and a half years later and I'm still wearing it. It's the most "me" juice out there. Simple and easy to wear, but with exquisite balance.
I like it much, much better than Polo. You have to...
Black Afghano has a huge musk presence, which some register as BO.
Nothing to do with FA's BO which is all nauseating cumin. Its violet leaf - cumin - vanilla accord has to be one of the most vile...
No thanks WG.
In future, PM me those interested!
There's quite a big dose of 80s musk in this . . . the drydown is actually powerful imo. Some may be anosmic.
Congrats on the writeup guys
I'd be interested to try both of these again. I only got a tiny drop of Prive and it was quite sublime.
Good comparison and accurate thoughts all around
it's what's in cool water, GIT and zillions of other frags. it smells metallic, with floral and citric aspects, and is very easily detected once you know what to look for. i also can't stand the...
The new Lubins are quite excellent vetivers with some good oomph but light enough for Summer
Unfortunately I only own about 50 years' worth of frags! I plan to live well into my second century so it's a concern. That's why I'm always on the lookout for the new and the interesting to add to...
nope . . . Kouros is waaaay sweeter, and no cumin to my nose
I like their traditional Middle Eastern formulae with oud, rose, amber etc. like Saat Safa, Shaikhah, Al Sheriga, and Dehn Al-Oud. Lord is full of dihydromyrcenol, not sure why you'd think it's...