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  1. Replies
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    Re: Do reformulations ever improve a fragrance?

    Certainly, for example Octavian Coifan at 1000fragrances mentioned that there were many reformulations of Vera Violetta (Roger&Gallet); each time a better ionone was available :)
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    Re: Very talc like musk combo help needed

    A blend of musk ketone and coumarin is the reference material for the ‘powdery attribute’ (note) in the Boelens & Haring database. See:
    http://www.fragrancesoftheworld.com/downloads/Odor%20Maps.pdf...
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    I tried the freezing method with alpha-Terpineol 96%, but the results were not spectacular. However, the results will depend on many factors, like the kind of impurities. Success!
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    When I first read the GC/MS of Narcissus absolute by Petrzilka & Ehret (1994), my reaction was to put together the major components (>1%): 24% alpha Terpineol, 20% Isoeugenol methyl ether, 19% Benzyl...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    These classifications are relative. For example, assume I wish to replace p-cresol in a composition with either his acetate or phenylacetate.
    Putting equal quantities of p-cresyl acetate and...
  6. Replies
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    For me o-, p- and m-cresol smell different: o- medicinal, m- tar, p- cow manure, p-cresyl acetate hors pee. Poucher recommends the phenyl acetate which is chemically more stable, can be used in...
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    Re: Brand New Smelly Game

    I remember some GS/MS of narcissus with 3-6% indole and 0.3% p-cresol. I also think that p-cresol is preferable to the meta-isomer. Maybe p-cresyl methyl ether is more in the direction of m-cresol?
    ...
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    Re: Critique my musk please...

    I would experiment with traces of Javanol.
  9. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    I didn’t find the link, but you can search their facebook page for Moonshade Carnation S&C, and previous posts. I remember that they replaced most eugenol and isoeugenol with acetyl isoeugenol and...
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    Re: Replacing rosewood

    Because I mentioned 1.5% Palmarosa in a reconstructed rosewood oil?

    Genuine rosewood oil is variable in chemical composition, containing 80-95% (-)-linalool, up to 10% cineol, etc. Oils from...
  11. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    Success with your reconstruction! BTW, in one of their projects (Carnation?) the perfumers from Scent & Chemistry outlined a way of how to circumvent the IFRA restrictions on eugenol.
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    Re: Replacing rosewood

    I found in my notes:

    90 (-) linalool
    6 Ho
    1.5 Palmarosa
    1 Eucalyptus
    1 alpha terpineol
    0.5 Camphor (Hon Sho)
  13. Thread: Vintage Bases

    by arion
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    Re: Vintage Bases

    Dianthine was great, so be prepared for corresponding prices. From my understanding it contains first class Bulgarian rose oil.
  14. Re: An informative article about what's behind IFRA.

    It’s decidedly the most informative article on this topic that I encountered until now. Especially interesting is the view point of the industry.

    I didn’t leave a comment after reading the article...
  15. Thread: citronellol

    by arion
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    Re: citronellol

    l-citronellol (= rhodinol) is the isomer recommended for rose compositions by Poucher due to its stronger and sweeter aroma. Most esteemed was Rhodinol ex geranium, but I never smelled it.

    PA’s...
  16. Thread: Top note Musks

    by arion
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    Re: Top note Musks

    Ambrettolide even in small amounts.
  17. Thread: Alpha Terpineol

    by arion
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    Re: Alpha Terpineol

    My ‘standard’ is alpha-terpineol >96% from SAG. Alpha-terpineol from PA has a much finer smell.

    For Lilac or Freesia I would use the PA grade terpineol.
    For Hyacinth or Narcissus it should not...
  18. Re: Any perfumer ever use putrescine or cadaverine in a scent ?

    At some point in time during the ‘maturation’ process they may be present in musk pods, but will be readily metabolized by bacteria into more smelly compounds as trimethyl amine.
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    Re: Making a Pipe tobacco cologne

    “Enough nicotine to kill a horse.” Well, maybe not that deadly, but nicotine is easily soluble in alcohol.

    ‘Virginia’ tobacco (not the blend) as in Gitanes should be unflavored, that is without...
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    Re: What Do You Feel We Need As DIY Perfumer's?

    Thanks BA. An excellent idea. Added your site to favorites.
  21. Replies
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    Re: Ethically 'Harvested' Deer Musk

    Musk deer farming in China is still practiced, but it seems irrelevant to perfumery because probably all deer musk goes into CTM. Actually musk production of farms represents about 1/100 of internal...
  22. Re: The monster which became a beauty, love on second sight!

    Indeed, there are fragrances which I rejected at first and then craved for them, without a good explanation, except the young age. For me it happened with Equipage (not substantive enough!!?), Tabac...
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    Re: Benzyl benzoate smell/effect?

    My Benzyl benzoate (>99%) from SAG has a faint smell of …. Benzoin. The smell is fainter than that of Benzoic acid, for example.

    I also noticed the modifying effect of BB on the smell of...
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    Re: Watery Green Base Notes...?

    :2vrolijk_08:
  25. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Calkin & Jellinek (1994) analyze Tresor (p.140) and Paris (p. 115):...
  26. Re: Do sunflowers really have a definite aroma? Or........is it just marketing?

    I completely agree with Ken. Ripe Inflorescences have the odor of oil for me.
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    Re: Very interesting article

    Interesting, but the science part full of BS.

    For example

    http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2014-01-19/health/ct-met-sensa-weight-loss-hirsch-20140119_1_hirsch-journals-studies
  28. Thread: New Baby Smell

    by arion
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    Re: New Baby Smell

    Once, many babies smelled of J&J baby powder. You are asking about the new scent? I think the ‘baby scent’ is a mix of the odors of milk, fresh and half digested, Huggies, J&J, Pampers, baby shampoo,...
  29. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    The Ambergris Ollifac resembles ambergris tincture 3% that I have very much, but is much stronger, is not enough ‘marine’ and has an ‘animalic’ note that for me is not entirely right, too plain...
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    Re: Natural Perfumery repost

    For me the best solvent is ethanol. I use EOs mostly at 10% strength for fooling around with scents.

    A compromise for drops vs. weight is to weigh the raw materials, e.g. one gram, and complete...
  31. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    Bill, there is a variety of thick skinned grapes cultivated in central and southern Europe, I don’t know its name, which has a distinct skatole aroma. Maybe just pareidolia, but sometimes commercial...
  32. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    About iso-muscone and normuscone, have a look at these two patents.

    http://www.google.com/patents/WO1998032820A1?cl=en
    http://www.google.com/patents/US7767640

    I tried a mix of:
    4 iso-muscone...
  33. Re: How to use Civet, and not end up with an old lady scent?

    GC/MS data for the musks in the secretion of the small Indian civet were published here.

    http://jocpr.com/vol3-iss5-2011/JCPR-2011-3-5-196-204.pdf

    I didn’t found something precise about the...
  34. Re: Overpowering materials that should be used in very small amounts

    All the above plus p-cresol, vanillin and Javanol.
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    I completely agree with Bill’s summary of the problems concerning the Japanese study. Most important in my opinion is the critique that the authors seemingly didn’t check if the ‘aged persons’ really...
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    Thomas, I think it’s not off-topic. Surely there are smells called ‘old-x’ as a pejorative. I myself labeled aftershaves of the ‘Tabaco’ and ‘English leather’ type with strong nitro-musk notes as...
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    I was referring to a review by Wysocki & Preti (2009) that I read on the net, but now I am unable to find the link. There Wysocki & Preti refer to a paper by Gallagher et al (2008) which were unable...
  38. Re: Need opinon on which synthetic musk(s) to use for...

    I’m not a perfumer. According Ph. Kraft Nirvanolide creates that skin-on-skin impression. I would experiment with a blend of Cosmone and/or Musk ketone with coumarin and different salicylates.
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    Re: What's that Old Person Smell?

    Right now I didn’t have the reference to a paper I read some time ago, but in my recollection the original study that linked 2-nonenal to old persons in Japan was flawed: the excess 2-nonenal is...
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    Re: Seeking Information on Musk Alpha

    It has CAS# 63697-53-0 and prohibited according to IFRA Standards – 47th Amendment.

    A google search reveals Shanghai Pengteng Fine Chemical Co., Ltd. as supplier.
  41. Re: Congrats to Mr. Bartlett and Pell Wall perfumes!

    Congratulations!
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    Re: Sexual Dimorphism in the Olfactory Bulb

    Thanks, interesting.
  43. Re: Your Exaltolide may not be Exaltolide... really.

    Hi Bill,

    The price of 15-pentadecanolide (= Exaltolide TM, Thibetolide TM, Macrolide TM, etc.) apparently changed a lot in the last 10-15 years:
    - Phil Kraft (2004) mentions that Firmenich...
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Uuups, I didn't see Bill's replay when posting :embarassed:
  45. Replies
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    Re: Musk Ketone Replacer

    Rats were fed with 45 – 200 mg musks /kg/day and NO adverse effects on embryos were observed. Mice of carcinogen-prone lines were fed with 100 – 200 mg musks /kg in order to see some effects. Frogs,...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Hi Todd, I never supposed that someone posting in DYT is afraid of perfumes & chemicals and it is interesting, indeed, to learn about compounds of commercial perfumes. I used your post only to say in...
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    Re: D carvone, does anyone have?

    I will also go with caraway. At SAFC it's about 1$/ml, but minimum order is 100ml. :sad:
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    That piece is meant to be fear-mongering. In high concentration a chemical may perhaps produce an allergic reaction in 1 in 100 or in 1 in 1000000 people and fall under IFRA regulation. IFRA...
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    Re: Advice on a formula

    The final composition should be the weighted mean of the components, in this case the bases. But I would use the finished compound, or part of it for further blends.

    Your formula looks to me very...
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    Re: Advice on a formula

    The final composition should be the weighted mean of the components, in this case the bases. But I would use the finished compound, or part of it for further blends.

    Your formula looks to me very...
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    Re: all-around enhancers

    I don’t know what exactly you ask from “all-around enhancers”. I think that Hedione, ionones and PEA are ‘floralizers’, while Musks, ambergris, Vanillin and Irones are ‘exalters’, compounds that in...
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    Re: Some notes in IFRA'S restrictions

    BB will be 'useless' only if you use it as a solvent instead of alcohol or another usual solvent. For example your final product contains 80% BB and 20% vanillin & civet.
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    Re: Fragrance as aphrodisiac?

    gandhajala@ No, and even Pfitzer didn’t claim to have an aphrodisiac (in the strict meaning of the word).
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    Re: German GC page, Is this of any use to us?

    Maybe in Paul’s table the amounts are indicated by ’+’ as order of magnitude (a log10 scale)?
    + ~ 0.01%
    ++ ~ 0.1%, e.g. dihydrocoumarin in Irina’s link
    +++ ~ 1%
    ++++ > 10%, e.g. coumarin
    But...
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    Re: The problem with sweetness

    I second castoreum absolute and add Italian cypress.
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    I also have difficulties sensing Galaxolide, especially in concentrated solution, but in perfumes like Dune, Tresor and Ysatis it becomes overpowering. Maybe some component of these perfumes boosts...
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    Edited

    deptulac, maybe I was too brief in my post.

    As mentioned by cacio, today the majority of perfumes contain a cocktail of ‘synthetic’ musks, and people show a bewildering variability in...
  58. Replies
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    Re: Musk... confusing?

    Philip Kraft (probably the most qualified man to speak about musks) defines the term ‘musk’ as an “abstraction from the complex odour impressions of natural musk tinctures, especially from the...
  59. Re: Political ideologies have their own scents, according to study

    To me it seems a poorly designed experiment.
    And then:
    ‘The researchers /…/ said the results were less than 10 per cent likely to have occurred through chance alone.’

    I’m tossing two dices and...
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    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    Ups, it had to be 1000 :embarassed:. Thanks for the correction. About the experiment, IMO:
    - trans-ocimene did not justify the price, and while using the rac imparts an undesirable terpenic /...
  61. Thread: Change in taste

    by arion
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    Re: Change in taste

    My most extreme change of preference: at 20 I violently rejected Tabac Original as a creepy-old-man’s fragrance. At 30 I was wearing it, and at 40 I developed an allergy to one/some of its components.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Newbie + Chypre = Adventure

    Speaking about Poucher. Playing with headspace GC chemicals I modified Poucher’s Pink Lilac #1035 as follows:

    160 methyl benzyl ether
    195 trans-ocimene
    80 dimethoxybenzene
    1000...
  63. Replies
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    Re: Buying a First Perfume Under $100

    I completely agree with lpp and 30 Roses. Boys are attracted to happy woman. Wearing a perfume you like may enhance your self-confidence, good feelings, and happiness. Shining happiness will be...
  64. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
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    7,399

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    At Scent-and-Chemistry is a GC of ambergris tincture shoving a typical 0.05% -/- Ambrox:
    ...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    AHA! ... some time ago my wife told me that benzyl acetate smells very strong, unpleasant and chemical evoking the image of ‘artificial plastic flowers’ and polish remover. I replayed that perhaps...
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    Re: Musk feedback requested

    Disclaimer: I am para- or an-osmic to some musks, so my opinions are perhaps very subjective. I don’t know the smell of Juniper Lactone, Macrolide, Muscenone and Muscone.

    Ambrox and Cashmeran are...
  67. Replies
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    Re: GC for Tonka Bean Absolute, Anyone?

    30855Do not know how to send pdf files. In the paper is the following table:

    Table 1 Yields of components, obtained by CO2 extraction and by ethanolic extraction. Results of the HPLC analysis, mg...
  68. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    O.K. I just emphasized the addition of water.
    Edit. because the mention of acetic anhydride.
  69. Replies
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    Re: Benzyl Acetate Harshness

    It never happened with my benzyl acetate and I don’t know if the problem comes from acetic acid, so the following may be BS.

    - Benzyl acetate is very little soluble in water, while acetic acid is...
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    Re: Subtle fakes and obvious fakes

    Yes, go with trusted dealers.

    Regarding value, one blog (no longer active) mentioned that in most cases the cost of the perfume is less than 10% of the retail price.
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    Re: What's the one ingredient you hate?

    Ten or 40 years ago I rejected perfumes like Miss Dior, Chanel 19, Cabochard, for their harsh top note. Although I love green notes, galbanum immediately evoked memories of childhood when I helped...
  72. Replies
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    Re: What's the one ingredient you hate?

    Neroli, cumin
  73. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    I’s vey possible. I expect that distilled oil will differ in composition from an extract (absolute), the thing those guys analyzed. At the one hand, if b-ionone is or not an artefact of the...
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    Re: Perfume that Men love the most on Women?

    Poucher: “Chypre perfumes are generally classified as belonging to the extremely heavy, very clinging type, and curiously enough when copious quantities are worn by elegant ladies the peculiar...
  75. Re: Effect of Rose or Violet scents on male body language and behavior

    Some 40-50 years ago in a small village in dark Transylvania there were hard rules with regard to scent use:

    - Scents for males had to be dry, fugitive, close to the skin, without silage,...
  76. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    The perfumery product is sandalwood oil, not absolute. The oil has a much higher proportion of santalol, and maybe the ionone is present in oil in even smaller quantities than in the absolute, or is...
  77. Thread: Clary Sage

    by arion
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    Re: Clary Sage

    Some clary sage absolutes contain up to 20% sclareol, which may be responsible for the amber/musky note = "animal".

    One sample of clary sage oil exhibited a distinct wet hair note.
    BTW, wet dog:...
  78. Re: Sandalwood essential for beard oil (and other beard oil suggestions)

    alpha-ionone is in Lebanon cedarwood and if I remember correctly also in Atlas cadarwood.
  79. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Replacing some coumarin and vanillin with the adjusted quantities of the respective tinctures improved the perfume, for me. I would replace musk xylene with ketone, as much as possible, and adjust...
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    saponier, hope this sample will be as expected.

    David, at the beginning, many years ago, I suspected that the issue is related to the ratio of isomers, then I tried different compounds with known...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    In my case I think something is wrong with my nose :embarassed:. For me cinnamic alcohol is distinctly spicy (two samples, one of GC/MS grade), cinnamic acid is much stronger than benzoic acid and...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Hexyl Cinnamaldehyde

    To me hexyl cinnamaldehyde in concentration above 1% is heavy, cloying and sickening, and so is Jasmatone, another jasmine odorant.

    Keep in mind that the odor descriptions are agreed by experts, a...
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    DrSmellThis, I am sorry if my previous post was received as offensive or confrontational. It was specifically addressed to zmiyashiro. I added the notes to make clear my position viz. human...
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    zmiyashiro, the point I tried to make was that if you know exactly what you want, it is upon you to compose that note, whatever materials you may choose from the many suggested in the thread. What is...
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    Re: Universally sexy notes?

    LOL. But on a heavier note, my feeling is that the MHC & smell & mate choice theories are no longer fashionable. However, would they be true, each group will have his own sexy note, that is, no...
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    zmiyashiro, now I realize that maybe I misunderstood the question. Since there are / were (?) on the market colognes with aliphatic acids and steroids, like AndronTM by Jovan, maybe the question...
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    Re: Male Underarm Sweat Accord

    Isovaleric acid is also the “pimary odorant” in Amoore’s sweaty primary odor family. It’s not an important contributor to the armpit sweat smell as was supposed in the past.

    With regard to “an...
  88. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
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    7,399

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I also think that experiments are the most important thing. You can go further and buy from Vigon a product that contains 83% of a methyl-ionone isomer with cas # 127-51-5, from Sigma-Aldrich a...
  89. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
    81
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    7,399

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    “Isoraldeines - 70 & 95 and both Methyl Ionone Gamma(s) - 70 & 95” are trade names for products that guarantee that you buy something containing n-methyl ionone or alpha-isomethyl ionone in certain...
  90. Replies
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    Re: Universally sexy notes?

    I also agree with cacio that there are no chemicals that alone or in a blend will be judged universally as “sexy” and that their odor quality is assessed somehow “unconsciously”. Those chemicals...
  91. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
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    7,399

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Hi Paul, Nizan already answered.

    About the use of large quantities of Galaxolide and iso-E-super in the 90’s, I suspected that people genuinely believed that both compounds have pheromonal...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Cedar on Fragrantica - I just don't get it

    For me cedar wood oil has a soft, medium lasting smell, without the ambroxan note of Iso E or the harsh sawdust note of concentrated norlimbanol.

    I find a common note in the smell of pencils,...
  93. Thread: Grojsman Accord

    by arion
    Replies
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    7,399

    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Just my opinion: I see the Grojsman accord as part of a modern Polyanthus, the classical primrose perfume “that smells better than the flower” (4 rose, 2 jasmine, 1 violet, 1 musk). Modifying the...
  94. Thread: Concrete

    by arion
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    Re: Concrete

    The well-known “fixative” for lavender is Exaltolide, but the proper composition/fixative proportion can be assessed only by trial and error.

    Poucher gives many elaborate formulas for lavender...
  95. Thread: Bees?

    by arion
    Replies
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    890

    Re: Bees?

    In honey bees the Nasanov gland produces a pheromone that contains geraniol and citral. This pheromone attracts bees during swarming.
    Isoamyl acetate is part of the bees' alarm pheromone and will...
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    Sticky: Re: Welcome to Just Starting Out...

    Thanks,

    I enjoy the time on Basenotes for more than five years and learned a lot, especially from the diversity of viewpoints each topic is approached.
    Hope to contribute also.

    Thanks again,...
  97. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Welcome to Just Starting Out...

    Hi,

    I visit Basenotes for many years because my love for perfumes. It began when I first smelled a vintage Arpege some 40 years ago.

    Even before, smell was an important part of my “umwelt”: the...
  98. Replies
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    Re: Coumarin, A Carcinogen?

    In my recollection:

    Coumarin is not carcinogenic. There is no evidence for that.

    Coumarin is toxic when eaten in large quantities.

    The harmful effects attributed to coumarin in the past were...
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