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  1. Replies
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    Re: Help determining a fragrance please...

    Congratulations!

    For professional environments, I like a lot Chanel Sycomore. It has the freshness of vetiver, but there are also woods that make it suitable for formal environments.

    cacio
  2. Poll: Re: What's the best vanilla smelling Guerlain perfume?

    I too think that the best Guerlain vanillas are outside of this set, Jicky and Shalimar.

    cacio
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    Re: Wearing animalistic fragrances for going out

    I concur with what others said. I don't think there's any primal, unconscious effect like the supposed pheromones or whatever. Everybody has different tastes and when you go to muskier things, it's...
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    Re: Must-tries from Tom Ford

    I also second Noir de Noir, chocolatey rose. Sahara Noir too, if it were still in production.

    cacio
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    Re: Masculine Tuberose

    I'd also say Tubereuse 3 la animale - probably the least tuberosy in your set, but rich with musks and I think some nice immortelle. After that, perhaps Tubereuse criminelle, which has a nice...
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    Re: Nicolai's Patchouli Homme.......

    Thanks! So it is as I imagined, ie that patch intense was essentially homme but intensified a bit, in the same way that Nicolai has brought out intense versions of many of her perfumes.

    cacio
  7. Replies
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    Re: Rank these 7.....

    1. 1740 Marquis de Sade
    2. Dior Homme Intense
    3. Pure Havane
    4. M7 vintage
    5. Musc Ravageur
    6. Spiritueuse Double Vanille

    With 1 first by far and 6 last by far. I have not smelled the Bentley.
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    Re: Nicolai's Patchouli Homme.......

    Are there notable differences between patchouli homme and patchouli intense? I have the homme, which I like.

    cacio
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    Re: Suggestions please...

    Welcome!

    Shalimar and Candy are somewhat sweetish and with a gourmand touch, the first vanillic oriental, the second more ambery gourmand. There are several version of Miss Dior, the current is...
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    Re: Frederic Malle Monsieur - new fragrance!

    From what I have smelled (which as said isn't the final version) it's not too sweet - it's smooth but not sweet, and it's really about the patch.

    Still, blind buying at Malle's prices isn't...
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    Re: Vintage Chanel Pour Monsieur

    Lucky purchase, the vintage are quite expensive on ebay.

    The difference between a good chypre base and whatever substitutes it now. Masculine citrus chypres were normal back then, and now they're...
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    Yes, that's the one. Sharp galbanum plus birch tar plus isobutyl quinoline. No sweetness whatsoever. The current Bandit is still good and still bitter. I bet even the shower gel could counter a...
  13. Re: Manufacturers seem to be vague on ingredients...

    I don't think manufacturers have to disclose the formula to the public (in any case, with gas chromatography good perfumers could understand the recipe). In Europe, they have to list whether they...
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    Re: your favorite bitter-sweet fragrance?

    In Lutens, I rather think of Arabie as bittersweet, though from the examples you make I'd think you'd probably wouldn't find it bitter enough. And curious you mention Acqua di Cuba because I get a...
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    Re: My Tom Ford Oud Wood has NO smell.

    I don't think this is the case, but occasionally, brands reformulate perfumes to cheapen the ingredients. But this sounds more like a defective thing. Either way, asking for a refund sounds like the...
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    Re: Aren't Store Samples Misleading??

    As you say, paper keeps a perfume for much longer. You do get the drydown eventually, but it could take more than a day to get there. But even on the skin one usually need half an hr, if not more, to...
  17. Poll: Re: What's better Tom Ford Black Orchid or CoStume National Scent Intense?

    Quite different. As Kaern was saying, Costume National is a smooth amber in the modern style, very wearable. The Tom Fords in general tend to be bolder, but I'm not a big fan of this one.

    cacio
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    Re: Caron - What a Beautiful Thing it is

    Caron always had nice bottles. At their stores, you can choose the bottle you want and they'll fill you with the extrait from the fountain.

    Too bad they don't seem to be paying the same attention...
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    I feel some Bandit is needed to neutralize all this sugar...
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    Re: Fragrances to 'warm you up'?

    Ambers and dark woods. Dior Leather Oud. Or also Chanel Egoiste.

    cacio
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    Re: $120 to burn at Nordstrom...

    Seconding Diptyque, 50ml should be well within the price range. Ombre dans l'eau for instance.

    I like current Antaeus, though it's true vintage is better. But right now prices for vintage are...
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    Re: Looking for suggestions for wife

    Welcome, and congratulations!

    For things to be found at Macys, I'm thinking slightly sweet florals like Estee Lauder Modern Muse, or Clinique Calyx.

    In niche perfumery, because of the theme,...
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    Re: Using Fragrances When Out of Home

    In my experience, they don't make things evaporate or anything. Plus, being small, you're probably going to use them up fairly quickly, so no worry about deterioration either.

    Here in the US,...
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    Re: What frags do you travel abroad with?

    I usually bring only a couple of 3 ml vials, one of which is usually an all purpose thing like a vetiver (Sycomore does very well). No point in occupying space and adding weight. But also, in many...
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    Re: Using Fragrances When Out of Home

    Another one for travel atomizers. Apart from the weight, you don't want to run the risk of dropping any glass on a locker room floor; the probability is low, but sooner or later it will happen. You...
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    Re: All time winter fragrances for men

    Welcome!

    Another one I like is Chanel Egoiste, warm and sandalwoody.

    cacio
  27. Re: Need a good year 'rounder from Luckyscent...$200 budget

    My vote for Etat Libre d'Orange Je suis un homme: a classic citrus woody, in the general direction of Derby, but a bit fresher and more incensy. Sadly, the bottle doesn't show the informative logo of...
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    Re: A masculine Le Labo for spring/summer

    If the local store is like the one in NYC, they should have presprayed paperstrips with the various scents. This is very useful to avoid olfactory fatigue if you spray (these are often powerful...
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    Re: Perfect niche Spring scent for ladies

    I'm thinking some flowers, serene, not too warm, but not superfresh either. Any budget level?

    Entry level niche: Parfums de Nicolai Le Temps d'une fete (greenish, narcissus, a touch powder). Not...
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    Re: Fragrance stores in Paris

    As hednic was saying. It's next to other perfume stores like Jovoy (niche), Goutal, and Guerlain. JAR is a jeweler with stratospheric prices. The perfumes don't quite have those prices, but are very...
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    Re: Fragrance stores in Paris

    Lucky you! So much perfume to buy in Paris. The first thing that's usually cited are the Lutens exclusives, which are found only in Paris, or in NYC at Barneys (but at a steep markup). If you have a...
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    Re: Take 2 - Choose my Leather Scent

    I don't percevie much leather in it, certainly it's a background note. So I'd say this is not going to be the leather for you. That said, it's quite easy to find, so always worth to smell.
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    Re: Corpse flower time... at Minnesota

    I saw the one in our botanical garden here in DC, but too late. Apparently, it stinks only for the first 12-24 hours, then the smell goes away. I went 2.5 days after blooming and there was no smell,...
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    Re: Suggest a vetiver....

    I second Vetiveru: straightforward vetiver, and not expensive.

    cacio
  35. Re: About to pull the trigger finally TFPN. Do you think it is overpriced/alternatives?

    If you really like Neroli Portofino, then go for it.

    As others were pointing out, it is a citrus. It does last a bit longer than other citruses, but still, as all citruses, it doesn't last too...
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    Re: A masculine Le Labo for spring/summer

    I think that Le Labo has many good ones (they also tend to last well), so I'd have many to recommend.

    For fresh, my favorite is Iris, a fresh, vegetal iris. If you like aquatics (I'm not a fan of...
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    Re: Luca Turin reviews 1 February 2016

    Eau de Jatamansi had a good space in (admittedly rare) Artisan Parfumeur desks a few years back, but I haven't seen it much recently, I wonder if it's still in production. I haven't smelled the...
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    Re: Take 2 - Choose my Leather Scent

    I was going to say the AdP, I like the idea of marrying sharp leather with sharp citrus, the result is extremely dry, almost brutalistic. But then you say you want creamy and jacket, and that is...
  39. Re: Paco Rabanne and ADP Colonia - too similar? And with Chanel Pour Monsieur

    Different enough for me too. The Chanel is a more straightforward citrus, and it doesn't last as long.
    CDG2 man is also excellent and with a nice twist, fresh vetiver and incense.

    cacio
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    Re: Prices and sizes in paris

    As others were saying, prices depend a bit on the exchange rate on your credit card. Often, they are a bit cheaper, but not a lot. The Lutens exclusives are cheaper than at Barney's, though. In...
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    Re: In the same vein as Bois de Violette

    Hard to think of anything else. As others were saying, if you haven't tried them, try the rest of the Bois series, which have the same woody-candied fruit base, but switch the main note. For violet...
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    Re: Notes That Stick Out and Those That Don't

    Interesting, actually, rose is often a hidden note for me. Not that I cannot smell it, but I simply don't perceive it on its own, I have to concentrate to get it.

    I am hypersensitive to marine...
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    Re: Any good cheapie Leather Fragrances?

    I second Aramis or its sister Azuree, still cheap, still good, and easy to find (in the US).

    Not sure what the cutoff for cheapie is. Bandit and Knize ten are gorgeous, but can hardly be defined...
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    Re: Candles for a bachelor's place???

    One of my favorite brands is Diptyque. Expensivish, but they last well and they're good quality. They're not too difficult to find now that they are distributed by many Nordstrom or Bloomingdales.
    ...
  45. Re: Suggestions for an Italian-esque Chypre scent

    This genre seems pretty much nonexistent in current mainstream perfumery.

    All that comes to mind, and it's not exactly it, is Caron Yatagan. It opens green and vegetal (countryside?), then becomes...
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    Re: MadHat Scents - Discussion Thread.

    Contrary to my usual principle, I bought Fur blindly. Great purchase. It's a superstrong woody-animalic affair. Not musky in the usual deermusk sense, more dark woody-incensy, very dry and smoky.
    ...
  47. Re: Then & Now: Bandit, de Robert Piguet (comparison 1970s-2015)

    Thanks for the link. The price seemed too good to be true, but then you tried it and it's for real ...

    cacio
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    Re: Need some clarification please

    Banned ingredients are due to IFRA (part of the aromachemical lobbying firm). If you do a search for IFRA here you'll find dozens of threads on this. In short, if a person our of a hundred or so gets...
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    Re: "Monsieur" by Frédéric Malle

    Thanks for the review!

    The SA in a store had me smell a mouilette some time ago, but said it was a prelim version that was still being adjusted. So yes, indeed, there were reformulations!

    In...
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    Re: Which Montales should i test out?

    As for stuff to smell to get an idea of what oud is like, you won't really find anything at Sephora or Macy, but you will at places like Saks, Neiman Marcus, or Nordstrom. Examples would be Diptyque...
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    Re: fresh/clean cologne that is not 'barbershop'

    If you like neroli, Acqua di Parma Colonias may work, since they are heavy on neroli. But neroli often does have a soapy twist, so as usual test first.

    I second vetivers, they are fresh and green,...
  52. Re: Hello everyone... New to this forum and hobby

    Here you can see also the spray perfumes. The line is carried by many Nordstrom and Bloomingdales
    http://www.diptyqueparis.com/personal-fragrances.html

    cacio
  53. Re: Hello everyone... New to this forum and hobby

    Welcome!

    As others mentioned, I wouldn't say that Bond no 9 is particularly disliked. I think that the issue is that this brand and, even more so, Creed are marketing geniuses that make the...
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    Re: something sensual/sexy but classy/timeless

    For something fresh, I suggest you try CDG2 man: fresh incense, a bit avantgarde. Goes well with all black clothing.

    cacio
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    Re: Which Montales should i test out?

    Montale is famous for oud, so you should definitely try some of them. They all have similar bases. My favorites are Aoud Lime (saffrony-citrusy oud), Black Aoud (rose oud), and Aoud Cuir d'Arabie...
  56. Re: Bel Ami vs Bel Ami Vetiver vs Aoud Cuir d Arabie

    I agree that if you want something more challenging, the Montale is the way to go. Bel Ami is still ok, though not as rich as vintage.

    Edit: yes, there is more leather and less powder than M7. The...
  57. Re: chanel exclusifs pure parfum bottles & travel

    Congratulations on your purchase! I love CdR parfum, loads of suede and iris, very elegant.

    Chanel bottles are well done and there is low probability of a mishap. But still, why risk? I would also...
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    Re: Where to buy fairly priced Vtgs?

    Looking for vintage is difficult and fraught with risk. My approach is to check garage sales or antique stores if I happen there, and just be prepared for the random purchase. But one just cannot...
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    Re: Looking for "old man" fragrances....

    The young crowd nowadays wears either sharp aquatics, or woody gourmands.

    I second many of the suggested ones. Egoiste, ironically, is woody and with sweet notes, but is quite different from the...
  60. Re: Sample Pass-Coty La Rose Jacqueminot, Styx & Paris

    I smelled Chypre and LRJ at the Osmotheque. I assume these were the original formulations (in parfum). The reissues smell close (with the usual caveat that parfum is richer and deeper than an edt)....
  61. Re: Sample Pass-Coty La Rose Jacqueminot, Styx & Paris

    I agree, even then Coty still had some of the classics, in decent, if not top, form. Downhill from there. At least, they're not even trying to market a Chypre that would have nothing of the original....
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    Re: Birthday gift for myself

    Babycarrot:

    re: Tysons, Parfums de France is a great little store full of perfumes. In the Tyson's mall, Nordstrom and Bloomingdales has a few interesting brands, including the cited Diptyque...
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    Re: Leather Oud Question

    I agree with what already said. Knize Ten is more straightforwardly leathery (plus flowers), while Leather Oud is darker, ambery, a bit smoky and animalic.
  64. Re: Could You Recommend Me Interesting/Unusual Female Fragrances?

    The classic green leather is Piguet Bandit. Very fresh green galbanum plus black leather. Still excellent.

    cacio
  65. Re: Is there a food item you believe the scent industry is overlooking?

    With the current interest in gourmand, I assume that most food aromachemicals must have also been used in perfumery. Save perhaps garlic and oniony things. But I wouldn't bet ...

    Stale lime...
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    Re: Amouage Gold Query

    Affordable is not the first thing that comes to mind for Amouage, so if you can find a good vintage bottle, you should go for it.

    Vintage is definitely bigger than current. But it's true that it...
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    Re: Birthday gift for myself

    Given that you mentioned that budget is not a problem, for complex woods, you can also try Amouage Dia man, in addition to said YSL (Amouage is sold at Parfums de France in the Tysons corner mall),...
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    Re: Amouage Gold Query

    Indeed, I love the Golds too.

    Re man, they are relatively different. They are both big florals, but Gold man has also incense and, especially in the old version, a lot of animalic musks. If the...
  69. Re: Guerlain temporarily suspending production of Mitsouko and L'Heure Bleue!?

    Honest on their part to admit. Though without saying what is what, it's really hard to understand.

    I hope it's not the new fractionated oakmoss - I don't think Heure bleue had any, but who knows....
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    Re: Cellophane wrap on new fragrances

    As others were saying. Some brands wrap each single box, others don't (like Estee Lauder/Aramis). So I wouldn't worry. Plus, as also said, a cellophan wrap is quite easy to add, so it's no guarantee...
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    Re: What's the soap smell in Kouros?

    I don't get soap in the usual sense either, but I do get the bathroom/locker room shower impression, which I guess is what you're referring to. Not sure what creates this, perhaps it's a fougere...
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    Re: Recommendations for a new fragrance?

    Welcome!

    I second some Chanel. Cristalle and No 19 are green, and complex, and mostly fresh. No 5 eau premiere is a fresher, more relaxed, citrusy take on no 5.

    cacio
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    Re: Best year round scent?

    Your Dior Homme certainly does as well. In any case, I think a fresh vetiver is good for all occasions: for instance, Tom Ford Grey Vetiver.

    cacio
  74. Thread: Lyric Man

    by cacio
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    Re: Lyrics Man

    No.

    It's very fresh modern masculine in style. In fact, I find it is a bit too close to a sporty masculine for an Amouage. It's a very clean, fresh masculine, the rose is clean, not "pink" or...
  75. Re: Head and Shoulders Active Sport 2-in-1 Shampoo...great scent to start the day!

    After this thread, I had to smell... So at Walgreens today I smelled the regular Active 2 in 1, which is fresh, a bit green apple and other stuff (there's also a head and shoulder green apple, that...
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    Re: LM Patchouli Boheme

    As hednic was saying, this is a good, pretty much straightforward patchouli. Lasts well.

    In niche perfumery, there are several big patchouli - the material is certainly not shy. I'll single out...
  77. Re: Which Mens and Womens Releases Over The Past 2-3 Years Standout ?

    I'm adding the new batch of Lush. Not especially cheap in edp form, but Smuggler's soul comes in long-lasting body spray and is wonderful (vetiver-sandalwood, superfresh).

    cacio
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    Re: Best container to decant a whole bottle?

    It is not common for bottles to leak. This sounds like a clearly defective spraying mechanism.

    As said, websites like accessoriesforfragrance or bestbottles.com sell perfume bottles in all sizes....
  79. Re: two Mugler Colognes or one Hermes Eau d'Orange Verte Concentre?

    If longevity is an issue, go with the Mugler. The hermes is excellent and lasts well for a citrus, but citruses always have longevity issues.

    cacio
  80. Re: Sample Pass-Coty La Rose Jacqueminot, Styx & Paris

    Thanks! I did not know Coty was under Pfitzer. I checked my other bottles and as you say they all say Coty Div Pfizer or the like. Back when pharmaceutical companies though it useful to have...
  81. Re: Sample Pass-Coty La Rose Jacqueminot, Styx & Paris

    Interrupting your excellent thread to show my latest ebay purchase: a Coty set Chypre, Les Muses, LRJ, Lady Stetson, and Stetson cologne. I already had them all, but why not double up?...
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    Ironically, I'm not a fan of Japanese green tea, especially when they put rice in. I prefer the chinese ones. Tastes as usual.

    On skin, I'm probably not a superfan, but I prefer the darker types,...
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    I like green tea to drink a lot. As usual, tastes. It's true that in green tea quality matters. There's nothing else to mask the flavor, no sugar, milk, or other flavors, just the leaf. So one has to...
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    My Fracas has not turned, and to my nose it beats its copy. Just a bit more of everything, more vivid, richer. But I agree that Truth or dare is an excellent copy, and arguably the best celebscent...
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    Re: Reformulations done well on vintage gems?

    As said in the cited thread, I think that the Caron trio is still quite good and reasonably close to the originals, if not indentical. I am also very satisfied with Egoiste.

    cacio
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    Re: MDCI Chypre Palatin weakened or not?

    I have not smelled the most recent batch. This was created after the IFRA restrictions, so chances are there is no need to reformulate. That said, firms often reformulate on their own, even if not...
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    Re: A masculine magnolia?

    I like Eau de Magnolia a lot and I think it's hard to beat in that. It works very well as a fresh citrusy masculine.

    When smelling it, I was struck by how close magnolia and lily of the valley can...
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    Re: Summer scent that isnt citrus

    I second vetivers. For formal, Chanel Sycomore or Malle Vetiver Extraordinaire. For casual, Lush Smuggler's soul.

    cacio
  89. Re: Just joined today and looking to build my collection.

    Welcome!

    Good choices. Egoiste is certainly something you want to try, warm and sandalwoody; very good for winter.

    For something fresh, I like vetivers a lot. If you like Encre Noire, you'll...
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    Re: Not really new, just new

    Welcome!

    I love green perfumes too. Several to suggest. My favorite is perhaps Paco Rabanne Metal, discontinued but easy to find on the web.

    cacio
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    Re: Bargain Bin Treasures sample pass

    I don't share your enthusiasm for Pink Sugar, but I have to admit that in the universe of pink syrups, it is better than most, and certainly honest.

    cacio
  92. Re: Less expensive alternative to Neroli Sauvage?

    Good link on neroli perfumes. I'll single out de Nicolai Cologne Sologne. It doesn't last as long as neroli sauvage, but it's much cheaper and one can respray.

    cacio
  93. Re: Suggest me a classic-style chypre that is easy to wear

    As you point out, chypres can vary a lot, plus, with the restrictions on IFRA, many have changed quite a bit.

    As others were saying, Estee Lauder has some stuff, though reformulated, like Azuree...
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    Re: Super Scent: The best of Etat Libre d'Orange

    Congrats on your purchases. Yes, the newest ones unfortunately come in 100ml only. The old 50ml bottles were really useful.

    cacio
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    Re: Need help in deciding :)

    To me, Bois d'encens is the most unique, quite a striking rendition of frankincense. I like the other two as well, though with the hundred of ouds now available, I might go for other first, like Dior...
  96. Thread: Smoky notes

    by cacio
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    Re: Smoky notes

    Cypriol (aka nagarmota) is another one that comes to mind. And then many chemicals for sure, typically described as tar, phenolic, etc.

    cacio
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    Re: My first stableyard fragrance is...

    Good point, barnyard can mean the place (woods, hay, droppings) or the mammalian inhabitants.

    cacio
  98. Re: New to fragrance collecting, looking for a point in the right direction.

    Welcome!

    CDG2 man has vetiver, as does Encre Noire. Not sure it's what you're looking for exactly, but you should certainly try. It has incense, so it feels a bit like entering a cold church where...
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    Re: Super Scent: The best of Etat Libre d'Orange

    Excellent article. ELdO is one of my very favorite houses. Good choices too; not a fan of the vetiver, nor Like this, but I own the others (and many others).

    I am one of those who were always a...
  100. Thread: Humidity

    by cacio
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    530

    Re: Humidity

    I am not an expert. I think I've heard too that humidity is a factor that speeds degradation. So as you say it's not about the seal, as in wine, but the reaction with the materials.

    cacio
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