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  1. Re: NYC Perfume Fabrication House. and Chandler's swipe at Natural Perfumery

    Exactly. I gave a gift wrapped in paper bearing a William Morris design just yesterday. One of many visual artists who have a profound effect on our daily lives.
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    I always tincture the whole pod, cut up into bits: If Iím tincturing I want to capture all the complexity of the material.
  3. Re: NYC Perfume Fabrication House. and Chandler's swipe at Natural Perfumery

    The idea that the visual arts are any less a part of normal life than the olfactory arts is a mystery to me. Visual artistic expression is a part of the built environment, the clothes we wear, the...
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    Re: Suede leather

    Iíve not smelt this perfume myself, but I have read the description from the, well respected, artisan perfumer who created it and I think the advice to look at suederal is sound. However I would...
  5. Re: Raspberry-Ketone, strange things...

    Raspberry ketone is very powerful. It will overwhelm most people in pure form. Personally I'm hyperosmic to RK with the result that I can smell it easily in tiny amounts but a 10% solution appears...
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    Re: Can synthetic musks lose potency?

    It is quite common to initially be unable to smell a particular material but over time to learn to smell it. I think this happens to most people with Hedione for example.
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    Hope you enjoyed it ;-)
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    Re: Reed diffusers

    My recommendation is that, for reed diffusers and to start with, you don't need a licence at all. Instead purchase either Perfumers Alcohol or Formulators Alcohol from Mistral (or a similar supplier)...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    In my view almost all perfumery ingredients are best used in the way you describe.

    There are exceptions of course; all rules have exceptions, save only this one ;-)

    In general a perfume...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    Interesting, ultravanil isnít something Iíve ever used. Itís supposed to be extremely powerful and is restricted by IFRA to 0.1% in Cat 4 fragrances, but as discolouration isnít usually a big issue...
  11. Re: Performing a Gas-Chromatography...now.

    This is broadly correct, though there are restrictions on what is called Ďreverse engineeringí a substance that is considered proprietary the legal basis for this is doubtful. It is well established...
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    Re: Storing Aroma Chemicals (Freezer?)

    A freezer is certainly OTT, some will benefit from a fridge - I keep citrus oils refrigerated for example - but frozen is a very expensive way of making them really difficult to use.

    The advice on...
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    Ah yes, good one, I fear I am indeed old enough (and British enough) to remember Packamacs and cagouls . . . also thanks for spotting and correcting my misdirection on para-Cresyl phenyl acetate...
  14. Re: Should the fragrance concentrate be diluted in alcohol by weight or volume?

    Since Iíve just been asked a question about this I thought Iíd put in here the way to get from weight to volume:

    To work out the volume of a known weight use this calculation:

    Kg divided by...
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    m-Cresol is stronger, smokier and more phenolic than para-Cresyl phenyl acetate, which is more horsey-animal and floral.
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    Iíd say 1% is sensible if youíre working with other things at 10% but youíll still want to be cautious with it - as you would with something like Calone for example.
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    Ambermax is a brilliant material - very powerful - very diffusive - very amber. They didnít call it amberMAX for nothing: it was a Givaudan captive until last year.

    It comes in two versions 50%...
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    Re: Acetates

    Thatís probably a sound move as far as recreating the particular fragrance youíve had a GC done on, but Geranyl acetate is an inexpensive extremely useful and versatile material that is very widely...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    I just ordered 2Kg of Vanillin - want some? :-P
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    Re: Warm sand accord?

    Could be your skin isnít as leathery as mine Paul ;-)
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    Oh, and I meant to say before Piconia (aka Isolongifolene ketone) is also a very lovely material.
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    Guaiacol is certainly an option, but youíll need very little, itís another big hitter.

    Sandalore is much rounder and smoother than Javanol in my view - also consider Ebanol which is slightly...
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    Re: Incense Accord Essentials List

    For a woody note that lasts and lasts, have you tried Norlimbanol? Itís incredibly persistent and if you use it alongside a sandalwood-type (many of which are also very long-lasting) you can get a...
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    Ha! A splendid idea: Lagavulin, Ardbeg, Bowmore, Bunnahabhain, and Laphroaig all have a place in my whisky cupboard and Caol Ila has been a past resident there too . . .

    And if, like me, you also...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Good one - I bet that will improve further with a bit of ageing too - and it should perform well in a fine fragrance context, though you will need to test carefully for the fixative as well as...
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    Re: How many ingredients?

    This is almost a how long is a piece of string question. There are commercial fragrances that essentially have just one ingredient: Molecule 01, 02 and 03 for example. There are others that will...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    It looks very much as though they are all copying the text from the same wholesalers catalogue doesnít it?

    Even if it is true that this is an all-natural blend, which as I say Iím suspicious of,...
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    Thatís a good description - if you want to get a good impression get hold of some Cresol (in dilution, itís very nasty in concentration) - that gives a very clear phenolic note.

    Returning to that...
  29. Re: Are there anti-irritants that can be added to perfumes?

    Well yes, except that it probably wonít: most people will never experience a problem. I believe itís about 2% of people presenting at dermatitis clinics who turn out to have developed sensitivity to...
  30. Re: Are there anti-irritants that can be added to perfumes?

    Just to add a thought to this discussion - Irritation and sensitisation are not the same:

    Irritation occurs when a material aggravates the skin on contact, is frequently exacerbated by other...
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    Re: Warm sand accord?

    One of the classic Ďleatherí ingredients is a material called safraliene: used judiciously alongside some of the other suggestions here should give you a good impression of skin: put in too much and...
  32. Re: Diluting Aldehydes and other Chemicals?

    You might wonder how it is that these natural isolates are available at all if they are so expensive that they are impractical to use in commercial scale perfumery - how come anyone makes them? The...
  33. Re: Should the fragrance concentrate be diluted in alcohol by weight or volume?

    You may find my blog post Weight or Volume? which explores the pros and cons helpful.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Reading their description, I strongly suspect they are using the word Ďnaturalí in its broadest sense - i.e. to mean anything that exists on the planet (the quote, including grammatical errors is...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Ionone beta 50-100%
    Dihydro-ionone beta 25-50%
    Methyl cedryl ketone (vertofix) 2.5-5%
    Cedrol 0.25-1%
    alpha-cedrene 1-2.5%
    Okoumal 0.25-1%
    alpha-Pinene 0.1-1%

    I assume the ranges are used...
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    Re: Can synthetic musks lose potency?

    Anosmia to Okoumal is probably less common (though I doubt any real studies have been done on that) but itís perfectly possible.
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    The quotation from Arcadi is from 1999, Perfumery Techniques in Evolution part III. The context there, as here, is understanding the smell of deer musk and recreating it in perfumes without killing...
  38. Re: Remedy for olffactoral fatigue...for real or old wive's tale?

    Iím fairly certain this idea was invented by a perfume counter sales assistant who cleverly worked out that sending customers with olfactory fatigue outside for a stroll usually resulted in them not...
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    Re: Can synthetic musks lose potency?

    Most likely you are (partially) anosmic to them: they are all stable, long lived materials of high molecular weight that are difficult to smell. It's possible they might have deteriorated but...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    You're being too literal: dl-Muscone is a racemic mixture of d-Muscone and l-Muscone and the latter has long been regarded as the main odour contributor of natural musk. That is now disputed by some...
  41. Re: Does heating an aroma chemical to hasten the dissolving process low its quality?

    It also depends on the chemical, some are very stable and will not be harmed by being taken to 100C or so even for an extended period. Others will likely polymerise, oxidise or react with the...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    I think Musk Xylene is banned both by IFRA and throughout the EU by law, but I believe itís still permitted as a contaminant below a threshold (Iíve not checked that). But in any case I donít think...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    Adding a little more to this in light of the subsequent discussion:

    I wasnít assuming most of the weight of the deer musk would be volatiles, though I would have thought it rather higher, after...
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    Re: Good MUSK combos?

    In terms of interpreting "a few" I'm afraid you're on your own. However as an approximate equivalent of one grain of natural musk I would suggest about 0.5g of 10% solution of a good synthetic musk....
  45. Re: Can I make my own Molecule 01 and/or Molecule 02 ?

    In that case email me at enquiry@pellwall-perfumes.com and I will sort out the details with you.
  46. Re: Can I make my own Molecule 01 and/or Molecule 02 ?

    10-50 Kilograms would be a very large amount indeed - do you mean 10-50g?

    You can buy it pre-diluted at Hermitage Oils or you can buy small amounts of the crystals from me. If you really want to...
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    Re: Incense sticks for perfume making

    The problem with isopropyl alcohol is that it has a rather harsh smell of its own. That smell evaporates off within a minute or so however and after that you should still get good results from your...
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Good spot there. Another option for construction of a heliotropin replacement is Acetanisole. Neither Acetophenone nor Acetanisole are subject to any IFRA restrictions and, so far as I know, donít...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Swimming pool note sounds interesting - Iíll see if I can get hold of a sample - thanks.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Sustainability certainly, but also the stable political situation, combined with poverty of the people means that money spent on sandalwood from that territory supports the living standards of its...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I prefer Santalum austrocaledonicum personally as I think itís closer to S. album but itís very much a personal choice. Iíd also recommend including some Atlas cedar in the formulation along with a...
  52. Re: Geosmin arrived, altered my formulation

    Norlimbanol is wonderfully long-lasting. To me itís so dry itís more like sand than soil: Iím sure it could contribute to a dry-soil accord effectively though.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Itís worth remembering what this formula was designed to do: sell Javanol. It was created by Givaudan perfumers to use as a demonstration of the effect of Javanol when that product was first...
  54. Re: Geosmin arrived, altered my formulation

    Earthy pyrazine is significantly more persistent than geosmin, though still not really a base note. To prolong the wet-earth effect I use Terranol but unfortunately that is still very difficult to...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    There are certainly ionones in Orris Givco, quite apart from the fact they can clearly be smelt, several are listed in the MSDS (though not in a way that makes them easy to identify). All of the...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Thanks David, just as well you said that because it made me go back and check, actually it was yet another IFF orris-like product that I asked about called Orriniff: thatís the one that hasnít been...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    Iím not sure when Orris Givco first went on sale but it would have been a good 5 years ago at least, probably more. Yes the ionones do have that odd property donít they? I personally donít get that...
  58. Re: perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

    Yes thatís pretty much it - exalt also often implies an improvement in diffusion and radiant certainly carries that implication.

    I wouldnít worry about introducing jasmine with hedione: thereís a...
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    Re: Orris root powder

    If anything youíll probably find the ionones and methyl ionones quite a bit stronger than an equivalent amount of irone. However the difference in a blend will be the enhancing effect - radiance or...
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    Re: Stash score!!!!!

    Frankincense (olibanum) tears tincture quite well, but the resulting tincture does tend to leave a residue on the skin - itís a bit like aromatic varnish - so keep it to a fairly low dose when you...
  61. Thread: Mango

    by Chris Bartlett
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    Re: Mango

    Consider gamma-Octalactone too - the coconut note is sweeter and softer than C18 (gamma-Nonalactone) and in my view just as long-lasting (in contrast with the TGSC note suggesting itís much shorter...
  62. Re: perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

    A couple of much-underrated fixatives with low-odour that you could consider are IPM and Hedione: they both have a wide-spectrum fixative effect and IPM is as good as odourless, while Hedione has a...
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    Re: What does Frankincense smell like?

    I think my top choice here would be Ambermax if you want to avoid getting too woody - it works very nicely with Ambrofix/Ambroxan too. Dihydro Ionone Beta might be better than Ionone beta too, or...
  64. Re: Why is phenyl acetaldehyde always sold in PEA?

    I donít think it would work with eugenol, because it isnít a primary alcohol, though Iíve not tested that. However it can certainly work with other primary alcohols.

    I routinely stabilise...
  65. Re: Advice on adding a baked/roasted nut scent that doesn't overpower?

    Iíd be looking at Nutty Pyrazine for this I think - 5H-5-Methyl-6,7-dihydrocyclopenta[b]pyrazine - sweet, nutty, roasted, toasted, grainy, coffee and corn notes - CAS number 20407-84-5

    Just as...
  66. Re: Why is phenyl acetaldehyde always sold in PEA?

    It is possible to buy pure Phenyl acetaldehyde, I buy mine that way, but as has already been said it isnít stable in that form. To stabilise it you need to mix it with a primary alcohol so that it...
  67. Congratulations to all the winners: great writing...

    Congratulations to all the winners: great writing on the subject, and its recognition, support the business of fragrance making both as an industry and as an art form.
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Itís quite well hidden - under the title Chemical Name in the blue box - it says:Ē...and isomers. 85% solution in IPMĒ

    What it doesnít do is give any indication of the proportion of isomers,...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Honestly if you can buy genuine Indian sandalwood, from Santalum album, for US$1,700 then youíve got a fantastic bargain: I donít know anywhere I could get such a good price today. Unfortunately...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    Yes, I have some pure IBCH and it is very thick indeed, though not quite as difficult to handle as pure Galaxolide. I donít have Santiff so have never done a comparison - perhaps I should get a...
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    Re: Sandalwood Attempts

    I believe Isobornyl cyclohexanol was the first to be made commercially available, though Iím not sure which company got there first - itís sold as Sandela (Givaudan), Santiff (IFF) and under a...
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    Re: Patchouli aging

    Thanks, thatís a really good tip: Iíve never heard of using citric acid that way before and would never have thought of it.

    Do you use the crystals directly or must it be pre-dissolved in a...
  73. Re: dimethyl anthranilate vs methyl anthranilate

    Vanillin would be effective - the Schiffís Base with methyl anthranilate is almost black. If I remember correctly the ethyl vanillin equivalent is bright red, so that would probably work well too.
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    Re: Patchouli aging

    while we are on the subject, does anyone have a good relationship with Ventos, the spanish distributor? Iím keen to buy some of their high-patchoulenol products but canít get anywhere with them, so...
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    Re: Patchouli aging

    I guess it depends on whether you want to use it or sell it, for what and to whom.

    Dark Patchouli is usually distilled in traditional iron stills, with the result that it contains enough iron to...
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    Re: Patchouli aging

    If you are looking for a lighter, milder patchouli Iíd suggest what you want is the molecular distilled version - also available from Hermitage - I use this in cases where Iím looking for the subtle,...
  77. Sticky: Re: A question regarding the use of isopropyl myristate in perfumers alcohol

    Just to repeat once more that you do not need glycerine in perfume, despite the many places on the internet that tell you to add some, it is completely unnecessary and will result in solubility /...
  78. Re: dimethyl anthranilate vs methyl anthranilate

    No problem.

    Donít forget though that it isnít just the aliphatic aldehydes that will react with methyl anthranilate but also all the others, including things like Vanillin, Hydroxycitronellal,...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    Expensive and also not IFRA compliant - the verbena EO is subject to a prohibition standard - though you can use small amounts of the absolute if you can get hold of it.
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    Re: Plum Note / Accord

    I believe the current version of this base is 2000F, it is produced by Firmenich so your local distributor for Firmenich synthetics should be able to get hold of it - itís on the stock list for mine,...
  81. Re: dimethyl anthranilate vs methyl anthranilate

    I donít use dimethyl anthranilate a huge amount myself, though I do have some. Alone, the odours of these two are very similar indeed, however while discolouration may not be a concern for you, the...
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    Re: rose changes color

    I use a rose petal tincture in some of my fragrances. Itís made by fairly brief soaking of completely dried rose petals, that have been air-dried in a single layer on absorbent paper: any that are...
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    Re: Good heliotope

    Sounds even worse than the stuff we have to deal with here . . . It does sometimes feel as though the powers-that-be have a special desire to make life difficult for perfumers. However I suspect...
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    Re: Natural fruit notes

    Just a quick apology for the lack of write-ups - I actually have at least a dozen more half finished now so Iím getting there - in addition to musks we have a good range of fruity aroma-chemicals...
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    Re: Advantages of Aldehydes

    Just to add a little more to this, despite the mythology, Creed fragrances are not Ďnaturalí in the sense that they are made using only natural ingredients, or even a majority of natural ingredients:...
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    Re: Good heliotope

    If you are looking to replace Heliotropine in a formula then Veratraldehyde is a fairly effective substitute.

    Also note that, although Heliotrope flowers are the source of the name the actual...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    As Iím familiar with them I can add here that Daphne odorata, Daphne mezereum and freesias all smell different. To me freesias have a very fine, transparent, green-floral scent with a soapy edge to...
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    Re: Dried Human Saliva Scent

    There are lots of good and interesting suggestions here already but for me, the one material that suggests dried saliva more than any other is IFFís Maritima - not easy to obtain in small amounts...
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    Re: Orange Blossom Absolute Suppliers

    Yes they are - Iíve not bought Orange Flower Absolute from them however.

    and so they do:



    Iíve tried both of these and the Tunisian is sweeter, simpler and more neroli-like, while the...
  90. Re: No national nor international shipping of fragrances from July 15th 2013!

    Personally I use a company called Despatch Bay, and send things through them via various carriers, including DHL. I’m wary of using Parcelforce for international orders (they are fine for domestic...
  91. Re: No national nor international shipping of fragrances from July 15th 2013!

    In short, yes.
  92. Re: Apologies for the lack of responsiveness

    You're absolutely right of course: it's great to have a lot of work coming kin and I'm really enjoying it. It's just that I hate it when people don't respond to my messages so I figure other people...
  93. Apologies for the lack of responsiveness

    Just a quick post because Iím aware that there are a lot of questions aimed at me here, about 35 unanswered private messages and an uncounted number of emails requesting advice.

    Iíve a large...
  94. Re: difference between eugenol and isoeugenol

    Safe is always a relative term, but I donít think 5% would harm anyone (unless they have a serious allergy to chilli of course) but I do think 5% would be intolerably high for most people both in...
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    Re: Handsome, manly bottles?

    Y

    Shipping varies hugely but factor in one third to double and you won't be far wrong.

    At a minimum you also need to expect VAT on import and sometimes duty as well - so 20% minimum and can be...
  96. Re: difference between eugenol and isoeugenol

    There is no IFRA standard relating to chilli oil as such, however the standards that relate to the various common components of many oils would still need to be complied with, though the only thing I...
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    Re: Refrigerating Aroma Chemicals

    Aliphatic was mentioned in my blog post, which is about the special characteristics and storage requirements for the saturated aliphatic aldehydes - it also includes a picture of the structure of the...
  98. Re: difference between eugenol and isoeugenol

    I'm not entirely sure, but I suspect I should take offence at that suggestion. I'll check with my lawyer Ö




    I think even in perfumery there is such a thing as client confidentiality. Suffice...
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    Re: Refrigerating Aroma Chemicals

    Another good spot - my blog post only listed the saturated aliphatic aldehydes - but now that I look into it I can see that indeed trans-2-dodecenal has two double bonds:

    24709
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    Re: Refrigerating Aroma Chemicals

    Well spotted - that’s an error - all of them are saturated, which is what that should say. I’ll update the post: thanks!

    Edit: now fixed. The error was repeated too - amazing not only that I got...
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