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Well, we are all learning, it's part :) But what i said about the 100 i have already seem on some accords in books, that's why i'm mentioning it too (i didn't calculate the totals of that formula...

You don't need an accord to always add to 100. It's useful when it does, however, to see the percentages that each material contributes to the overall idea. The 70 on Isoraldeine indicates which...

Speaking of Galaxolide, i have the impression that galaxolide and vanillin seems to act very well together. My sensation is that the both combined makes a fragrance seems to have more vanillin than...

You should buy some just to smell Renegade, there are ones very beautiful. Tuberose and Narcissus reminds me of a specific one, mate absolute. I don't know how to describe, but it's an aroma which...

This is a good excuse to add into my cart the cis jasmone i has been dating for a long time

I'll see if i find bulbs to purchase and plant. Hope i find the right ones, since Tuberose is called Angelica here (and Angelica is also called Angelica, go figure...)

I never smelled a living tuberose unfortunately, my impressions are only based on the enfleurage, essential oil and the wax itself. Between the three the wax has a green nuance that i find lovely and...

I have already tried to work with music on my environment, even peaceful music, but i can't =/

I don't like to compose with music. For me it's distracting since i start to pay attention in the music instead of focusing on the ideas. I prefer if possible silence to focus and concentrate on what...

I have a question related to a Tuberose accord. I have some Tuberose wax that i purchased with a friend and the smell is lovely, it has a kind green, tea-like nuance that i don't get on either the...

The question is that niche is not growing due creativity. Creativity sells fragrances for a small group of people like us, who participate on forums and willing to discuss fragrances into something...

Well, if you consider the laws of supply and demand that you already mentioned, the market is not flooded already. If it was, we would witness and stagnation or decrease into the numbers of new...

Micro-niche already exhists. It's the artisan or indie segment.

I could find this tough:

" 3.3. For Use in Anti-microbial Solutions
Phenethyl alcohol has been used for many years as a bactericide in pharmaceutical preparations, researchers have found...

You are absolutely right, they are used as preservative, but couldn't find any reason of why this specific preservative.

David, what about the sandalwood nuance that i get on geraniol?

Thank you Timon! I thought it might had some function with the cortisones...

I'm surprised with the revelation. I would think that the third one, Nerol, was citronellol due the lemongrass nuances. And i'm very intrigued that geraniol has sandalwood nuances to me. I thought...

Sometimes i get very surprised about how strong and accurate scent memories from childhood can be. I'm doing this year a course of perfumery here in Brazil which consists of 360 degree on the...

I smelled a lot of different things this saturday on the perfumery course i'm participating and i'm sure that the material number 1 appeared in one of the muguet bases they showed. I'm puzzled...

I first sent my impressions to mumsy through email to see if i wouldn't spoil the fun with what i wrote. She thought it was ok for me to sharing it with the group right now, so i'm just posting my...

I'm not disagreeing about the fatigue itself, but if you are able to work around it the experience is revealing, at least for this set. But i know that smelling similar ingredients might produce what...

I think it can and it cannot be. You just need to smell them with a space between each order to not tire the nose. I'm enjoying smelling things in a series since doing this blindly is helping me...

I have already received mine as well. It was quite fast this time - i was surprised when i arrived home and had a box waiting for me and it was from the ponk club :) Well, i won't spoil the fun so i...

If i would suspect of any aromachemical responsible for the green apple aroma i would search for esters in the gc-ms

saving this, very cool link!

I guess that if the leaves loose the scent when drying the volatiles might be water soluble so and evaporate.

Some suppliers do describe acetaldehyde as apple like. The weird is that the article does list it as the main responsible for the apple smell on the leaves but it doesn't appear in the gc-ms

I think you have a great plan for tincturing it that way desmond. Crushing certainly will help to release the volatiles and replenish them will make your alcohol saturate. Have you thought of leaving...

About your extraction, are you trying to tincture which material? The roses, the hips, the leaves? And also, how much of the material did you put into your vodka?

This is the famous Rosa Mosqueta, widely used for aging. The oil does have a musky aroma indeed like ambrette seed from what i remember. I know they extract the essential oil in seeds for wrinkles...

I'm interested

Mumsy, it was very revealing for me! Altough it was a quick sniff i could see some interesting links that i would never see if i knew what to check. Like the bitter chocolate nuance in methyl eugenol...

I think that number one is something that is found in both Sandalwood and Rose. A link that i never checked before. I have a guess that seems to fit to the rest of descriptions, but i won't tell to...

I want to receive all substances, even IFRA and UE restricted ones please. Number 4 was fun to detect and i'm surprised with which material is it.

I received my January box today :) It took a little bit long maybe due the customs here, but i'm happy it's here. A pic: 47646

It's 10:22 PM here and i know i have to dip the blotters and observe...

I received a time ago 10 ml of Iso Butyl Quinoline from a friend. Don't know if it's diluted or not, but besides all the mentioned aspects of it there is something on its aroma that also reminds me...

It doesn't help a lot, but i found this:

http://www.cabdirect.org/abstracts/20143218004.html;jsessionid=0E9358E857935102C72DD2A6BE117D3D

If there is a moderator seing my thread, i would ask if possible to be closed for not further commenting here. The subject was gone out of the original idea.

This is your opinion, not mine. And while i do respect that, again i reply that this has nothing to do with what i asked. If this is not judging i don't know what is: "I think your anger and...

I'm not interested in a job at IFF or Firmenich. Perfume is my passion and i want freedom to research whenever i want. You didn't tell anything new to me again, but i considered that since we have a...

Who are you to judge my intentions and frustrations? I understand that you might have a different view, but i didn't ask for that. I didn't ask either about if it's the better or worse method. Or if...

Too bad that this forum doesn't have the delete option. My questioning here is useless i guess.

David, i bet do disagree. This is not a magic goose case or either a kill the magic of perfumery. Instead, it's mastering your pieces to really understanding. I'm not interested on only things like...

The number of mixtures is as extensive as the number of data variables used for developing any statistical models. And you can indeed make predictions once you understand its dynamics. I'm pretty...

Chris, i was not expecting simple answers indeed, but more directions to research and develop my conclusions....

Me too, i have been coveting this for ages!

I have the same problem as yours, my cepes absolute is totally solid. Have you tried putting it on baigne marie for a short time? Just to make it dissolve on the alcohol. It is what i plan to do with...

I guess that what you want is this:

https://hermitageoils.com/product/papyrus-absolute/

I guess that they call it a flower absolute due this "Papyrus absolute is obtained by solvent extraction...

I guess that this is due the sinergism and antagonism between aroma molecules. I'm trying to find more info about it, but it seems that i have aimed for a dark area with my questions.

I suspect...

I have made my subscription today :) For now i picked the basic membership since i'm more interested know in doing simple tests with the materials. It'll be very fun trying to understand without...

Perfect, i love chaos! There is something on chaos which seems fascinating to me. Maybe because i'm a little bit chaotic myself....

But where can you purchase auram products?

David, i don't want to prove anyone wrong, i believe that there are many ways of seeing the process. And yes, sensitive indeed, i scrambled the words

Let's say that i'm using this as a way of analysing a machine which is working and i would like to understand its pieces and how they work together. Fragrance is a system and as with other systems it...

Am i touching on a sensible subject without knowing? If so, my apologies, i was just curious about some technical guidances that would help me develop a way of composing that would makes sense to me.

Your comment now makes me think of why you cannot build a synthetic accord of a material based solely on the percentuals found in the headspace and gc analysis.

Adam, i imagine it would change, since it would be a system where each element is interacting. My aim with this is after smelling my materials separately and diluted, using technical information to...

I can join in feb, there is no problem!

I'm from Brazil, can i Join? It would be interesting training blindly the nose testing materials

I have a friend that commented the same thing.

Oh, i presumed the peaks indicated that each molecule didn't behave linearly when evaporating

Thank you so much, you helped me a lot! Well, i wasn't think in correlating the duration and perception of the materials, but using them as indications of the proportions i can use of each material....

I guess you didn't understand what i want but based on the answer i have seen from you on the past, it's worthless trying to explain. So thank you anyway for your answer. I disagree with you anyway.

But experimentation is kind of subjective and i was in search of objective parameters for those questions;

I have some doubts related to technical evaluations. Is there anyone that could help me?

1. Can you predict how much a chemical will last and be noticed based on its vapor pressure and odor...

Costus and musk ambrette are free here and quite easy to find :)

Do you know if this can be confiscated? I can try to purchase for you and send you some. I have 20ml/20g and 100ml/100g options that are cheap.

Something that recently surprised me is that the three main nitromusks are found in a Brazillian soap supplier. Even the xylol which seems to be hard to find. I have examined Brazillian sanitary...

I feel this way too Mumsy, since we have a degree of freedom that commercial ones today don't have.

This thread is so amazing, reading all this information about DeLaire bases and expertise makes me wish have being a perfumer working for them on the golden age of perfumery. I can imagine how the...

"Last year the weekly French magazine Le Nouvel Observateur published an interesting article about perfume creation called La Guerre des Nez (The War of the Nose). It featured a candid interview with...

"Ultimately, categories and authors and novelty don’t really matter in the slightest - it’s all about the powerfully subjective, dare I say existential, experience one can glean from smelling a...

Oh, there is a really amount of 'risk' in doing variations of modern chypres that you already know the formula guided by focus groups where people are presented with the pillar fragrances that are...

Quality is a very wrong word that people keep using to access products without knowing that quality really means being able to always produce the product the same way without many deviations. Quality...

I believe there is a big error on your article title: Why commercial perfumery COULD be more interesting than niche. I stress the could, because you cannot take few good fragrances from a plethora of...

David, why are they called fixed? I always had this curiosity. If you use a pre-diluted ingredient, does the solvent has to be an oil too?

That was exactly what i was wanting to know. So, you usually don't freeze it. I was thinking if freezing wouldn't spoil the mixture

Chris, chill at which temperature?

So, you have to options: try to remove the fat content or switch to coffee absolute instead of working with the CO2

David, i believe that the problem is not that the material is good, it's related to this (extracted from Hermitage Oils website)

Whilst many companies on the internet claim to offer Coffee...

It's certainly the coffee. I have made a mixture with coffee and this also happened with my experiment. A friend told me that with coffee you have to blend it first with alcohol, let the alcohol...

I find it interesting due the compendium of many information. Still, i ended never exploring deeper because it seems to me more like drawing notes and personal material than a full book - it lacks...

I want some as soon as you start to sell it.

I just fund this thread searching for molecules related to Sandalwood, pretty interesting thread!

A doubt: if sandalwood molecules induces such an instant fatigue due their powerful profile, how...

I wouldn't trust wasser words or interpretations on it. To Mon Exclusif he said that it was like a modern Jicky and there is anything of Jicky on it.

I'm glad that you appreciated my review :) I received a sample by a friend before the launching and decided to write about it. I can say that if you enjoy the original you'll like this one. It's...

Speaking of leather, iso butyl quinoline was quite a surprise for me because undiluted it doesn't smell like leather at all. It reminds me the smell of crayons on my childhood, the smell of them in...

Oh, i found it. The brand that sells it is famous for doing mainstream dupes for very reasonable prices. The curious is that they usually are very close to the creation they are cloning.I believe...

I thought that you were comparing to some gc-ms analysis of tonka beans

Chris, i couldn't find any reference to it procuded here in Brazil, aren't you sure it's a relative to this plant?

One that is not from here but it's from south america and it's lovely is...

That explain wny some almond perfumes sometimes smell like wet dog.
A fragrance that smells a lot like dog, but after bath for me, is Lalique Amethyst

I know, i have almost 1kg of tonka with me to do a tincture :) I keep smelling the box, the aroma is gorgeous.

Are you sure that your natural coumarin comes from dipteryx odorata? If the came from...

I found odd the mimosa one. But the Neroli Base for One kg wasn't that bad i think. They let me purchase amounts in 300g, so it would be like 90 dollars,

Some are more expensive and some are more affordable David. The Mimosa one, for instance, is 1300 dollars i guess and the neroli one is 300 dollars the kg. But i was curious because i never saw no...

I have a supplier here in Brazil that sells what they call a Musk Blend Accord. They don't list the amounts, but they say that it's made of:

Vetiver
Ambrette
White Agarwood
Labdanum
Ginger...

http://www.bojensen.net/EssentialOilsEng/EssentialOils29/EssentialOils29.htm#Tonka

Bo Jensen says this about Tonka Bean, Coumarin, Dihydrocoumarin:

Tonka beans
Dipteryx odorata (Fabaceae)
The seeds from the large tree Dipteryx odorata growing in northern South America are...

Has anyone here already tried or tested the reconstitutions that biolandes sells?

I don't know why the company doesn't list them, but the supplier i contacted here send me a list with those...

Since they have an international website, i think they might accept orders from abroad too:

http://www.citral.com.br/e_index.php