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  1. Replies
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    Re: Jo Malone Wood Sage & Sea Salt

    I smelled this on a catalog fold. What I got there is an interesting sweetish salty herbal. A bit of sage (but this seems to disappear even on the fold) and an interesting salty-beachy feel that,...
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    Re: New: Bond No. 9 Queens

    I just smelled this on a catalog strip. From there, it's a sort of light tuberose with sweet tea notes (supposedly osmanthus). A little sweetish, but smooth. Of course, no idea on how this will...
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    Re: Wedding scent recommendations

    In your list, I'd say Chergui (classic), Leather oud (big), Tobacco vanille (tends to be crowd pleaser) but perhaps especially Incense oud and Jb XXV, since incense appears appropriate for a church...
  4. Re: Which house tells the most interesting story?

    I like Etat libre d'orange quirky and avantgarde approach.

    cacio
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    Re: Rochas Femme - Reformulation

    I am sadly unfamiliar with iterations of Rochas femme, but anything resembling Enlevement has my full attention!

    cacio
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    Re: Sample Pass-- woody white florals, chypres...

    Looking forward to hearing the comments and then trying myself. My first experience with Tulipano nero (thanks to a kind bner) was so so, let's see if it changes.

    cacio
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    Re: Le Labo City Exclusives

    Re vetiver, points of view. Le Labo uses the name of the substance that is present in the largest quantity. This could be, as they say, vetiver. But I perceive CDG2 man and the le labo more as smooth...
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    Re: Le Labo City Exclusives

    Yes, thanks to the usual Le Labo misnaming, their Vetiver is actually an incense, similar to CDG2 man. So very different from standard vetivers.

    cacio
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    Re: Advise for a Newcomer

    Yes, I meant what yarn was saying.

    These brands say they use rare and expensive materials, create rich and complex compositions, employ the best perfumers etc etc. when this is not true. Of course...
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    Re: Your thoughts on Jour d'Hermes Absolu

    I find it more intense throughout, but I personally don't find it too grapefruity.

    But I agree with you that the original was actually quite long lasting on its own, and the subdued, but durable,...
  11. Poll: Re: Which has more longevity: Chanel Sycomore or Lalique Encre Noir?

    Yes, each of us has little sensitivity to some materials (and vicersa could be hypersensitive to others) - so perhaps your perception of Iso-E is weaker than for other people. In the case of Iso-E,...
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    Re: Advise for a Newcomer

    As for Bond (or other houses), I agree with some of 61824. Bond no 9 are great at marketing, they are widespread, successful, and charge high prices, and pretend to be what they are not. (Bond...
  13. Poll: Re: Which has more longevity: Chanel Sycomore or Lalique Encre Noir?

    Encre Noire contains a large proportion of Iso-E, a material which is long lasting, but which many people have problems detecting. Sometimes, one has the impression that it comes and goes. So perhaps...
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    Re: $600 for 50 ml most expensive niche?

    Overpriced for sure. Still, not record breaking. Excluding the particular editions with special collectors bottles, JAR, for instance, is more expensive. JAR eclair goes for almost $1,000 for 30 ml...
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    Re: Discovering New Fragrance Houses

    If you do get the ELdO set, make sure you read about Secretions Magnifiques (a conceptual masterpiece) before you absent mindedly put it contact with the skin. And go light on Rien (a masterpiece -...
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    Re: Advise for a Newcomer

    Bergdorf Goodman, Barney's, min, Aedes de Venustas, Osswald, and many many more. You are lucky to live in NYC. Whenever I come to NYC, I try to do smelling trips to check on all the niche you can...
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    Re: Bee bottle Derby vs Wood frame Derby

    I owned a bee bottle. I tried the vintage "eagle" bottle and didn't notice particular differences. i smelled the wood bottle in a store, and nothing jumped out, but I did not examine the drydown on...
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    Re: Discovering New Fragrance Houses

    In your list, the ones I like most are Ormonde Jayne, The different company, and especially Tauer. But Tauer can be a bit challenging, that's part of the appeal. OJ are smoother - the best however...
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    Re: Lush to Discontinue Gorilla Fragrances

    The US website lists these as staying:
    Some of your favorites will be coming back with the same signature scent and a fresh, new look: Breath of God, Dirty, Imogen Rose, Karma, Lust, Sikkim Girls,...
  20. Re: Three captivating vintage fragrances - all very different in there ways.

    I have not smelled the FdT, and now I'm very curious. I fully agree on the other two. And I must say I am satisfied with current Yatagan as well. It may have lost some of the animalics, but it's...
  21. Re: Looking for some suggestions from some fellow niche fans.

    Bond no 9 should be distributed by many Nordstroms as well as many Saks, so it shouldn't be too difficult to find where to smell.

    Anyway, for Bond, thinking about Florida, I like Fire island,...
  22. Re: What methods do you use to weaken a fragrance's strength?

    As diamondflame was saying, if the skin gets too hot, spraying on clothes (or similar, like a handkerchief in the breast pocket) will work because fabric doesn't get as hot as skin.

    cacio
  23. Re: Not satisfied with anything I own or sampled. What happened?

    Second more Lutens, especially the caramel-immortelle Jeux de Peau. Jeux de peau smells like an overcharged Santal Majuscule (as suggested by others). SM is smoother and lighter, JdP goes all the...
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    Re: Pino Silvestre bringing us 3 new releases.

    So the oud craze has trickled all the way to Pino silvestre. We shall see. Rainforest does indeed look the most promising.
    Will we soon have an Axe oud sport?

    cacio
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    Re: Intringant patchouli errrr....

    For finsfan, as for other patches, Artistan Parfumeur Patchouli Patch and Montale Patchouli leaves are nice, straightforward, earthy patch, which don't go too far though into bong territory like IP....
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    Re: Intringant patchouli errrr....

    Indeed, exact description. An unapologetic in-you-face patchouli complete with animalic note. The marijuana reference must be the association with the patch being used back then to cover the smell....
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    Re: Masculine Scent Recomendations for a Young Man

    For freshness I like vetiver, like Guerlain Vetiver or Tom Ford Grey Vetiver (in mainstream. I niche there's the abovementioned $$$$ malle vetiver extraordinaire, or also Chanel Sycomore).

    cacio
  28. Re: Style Arabia - Beauty Guide - Luca turin reviews Tom Ford Velvet Orchid & Givenchy Dahlia Divin

    The description of EL as the ur-American wealthy woman is spot on. The regular EL for (wealthy) working women, Clinique perhaps a bit more relaxed, Tom Ford for the top 5%, Jo Malone when in...
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    Re: The merchant of Venice

    Incense mist and vetiver must be from what the website calls museum collection (ie the single note ones).

    cacio
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    The merchant of Venice

    From a trip to Venice, my sister brought me samples of the new line The Merchant of Venice.

    http://www.mavive.com/VediMacro/EN/2421/THEMERCHANTOFVENICE/

    (and I think already added to the bn...
  31. Re: What is in an aftershave that makes it an aftershave and not an EdC / EdT

    I don't think there is a legal or agreed on definition. In the past, most aftershaves were probably nothing more than more diluted perfumes. Alcohol being sufficient for the main purpose of...
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    Re: Your suggestions based on what I have

    Dirt and skank are of course in relative terms, it smells rich and smooth. For more skank, the typical suggestions are Lutens Musc Koublai Khan, Le Labo Oud, or vintage Kouros.

    cacio
  33. Re: Which fragrance is best at smelling like a bakery?

    Seconding Jeux de Peau.

    The opening is striking, like warm buttered croissant, then it develops some caramel, and dries down to a rich immortelle (that is, woody, caramel and slight spices)....
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    Re: Your suggestions based on what I have

    You seem to gravitate towards woody, leathery, slightly spicy perfumes.

    A couple off the top of my head:
    Guerlain Derby (citrus-woods-leather)
    Dior Leather Oud (oud-leather)
    Chanel Coromandel...
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    Re: Learning to Identify Notes

    Welcome!

    Pretty much, that's the main way to go. Unfortunately these kits are expensive.

    Some materials can be smelled in places like organic supermarkets-wholefoods and the like that sell...
  36. Re: Pour Un Homme de Caron directly from France, different?

    As hednic was saying, no difference. There are some people who say they notice differences in certain frags like Chanel no 5 due to the different type of alcohol, but I've never noticed anything.
    ...
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    Re: Looking for a rose

    Perfumers' workshop Tea Rose is a very realistic rose. Quite inexpensive too, I've seen it at discounters as well.

    More expensive, as jacona suggested, the French brand Parfums de Rosine...
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    Re: Helmut Lang EDC Replacement

    Dirty musks recall (distantly) sweat, animals and the like, while white musks recall soap and laundry.

    HL is recent enough that I don't think it had the time to go bad. But ebay is always risky....
  39. Re: Any suggestion on some possible vintage fragrances not priced through the roof?

    Vintage can go pretty high ...

    One thing that you cannot really find nowadays are citrus chypres, like old Chanel pour monsieur (prohibitive prices), Eau Sauvage (ditto), or, reasonable prices,...
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    Re: Santa Maria Novella

    Agree with the above. My favorites are Acqua di cuba (honeyed tobacco) and Peau d'espagne (leather). Others are interesting too. In general, I think they do best with the simple and classic masculine...
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    Re: Similar perfumes to Gucci Rush???

    Gucci Rush is a big lactonic floral (ie flowers with a milky-creamy base), extrovert, pink, cheerful.

    While it doesn't smell like that, another big floral that is big, extrovert, pink and has some...
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    Re: Helmut Lang EDC Replacement

    The Kiehls musk is excellent, but it's a dirty musk (as is the top of MR), the opposite of the soapiness you like. Over time, the dirt subsides a bit and the frag cleans up.

    cacio
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    Re: Hello! Intro & a couple of questions

    Welcome!

    Samples aremore expensive per ml, so if you really want a perfume, it's always better to buy a bottle.Typically, you can get samples at regular dept stores or the like when you buy...
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    Re: Strenght and speed scent?

    Some ideas:
    Kouros, even in its reformulated state, recalls locker room and men who are washing after their workout.
    Bandit, and s&m leather, has an invigorating green blast together with dark...
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    Re: Helmut Lang EDC Replacement

    Welcome!

    For the EDP, I'd have said that the base of Musc Ravageur is very similar (after the dirty musk subsides). But I don't know for the edc - it smells cleaner, so it's probably a different...
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    Re: Body chemistry and fags......

    Skin is warmer, so at first it will highlight the more volatile notes. Perfumes on clothes evolve more slowly. So that may explain some of the differences.

    cacio
  47. Re: Are there any great scents that smell like fresh linens?

    I was thinking too about some white musk, especially the Kurkdjian mentioned by Neoxerxes.

    cacio
  48. Re: Breaking News: Peccato Originale (Original Sin) Iniezione di Morfina (Morphine Injection)

    Not the first time for sure. If they were good at least (as YSL Opium was).

    In the specific, I do remember smelling something with the name or note name of cantaride at L'oprofumo in Florence...
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    I was wrong, I just verified, and, as the others were saying, they're not there. I doubt there's any rationale for their absence other than space or smelling time.

    cacio
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    Re: Top 5 Favorite Candles

    Diptyque Jonquil
    de Nicolai Vetiver de Java
    Diptyque Jasmin
    Bond Chinatown
    Erbolario Meharees

    cacio
  51. Re: Which "feminine" scents would you never want to be without ?

    Singling out (because of the very feminine marketing) Anais Anais is great for gym and the like. Fresh, bitter, but devoid of any sharpness. I've bought on ebay a few bottles of the bath oil, which I...
  52. Re: Article: Le Labo to launch solid perfumes in November

    I like the fact that Le Labo sells their perfumes in all possible forms (alcohol, lotion, oil etc). More brands should do the same.

    cacio
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    Re: Back to the classics: suggestions!

    Vintage is always risky, but I don't think splash is worse than spray on that respect. It really depends on how a bottle has been kept. I have several splash bottles and many are still good. (It is...
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    Re: Help me navigate through some leathers

    Yes, CdR is smooth, almost like suede, and has a lot of iris. I have not tried cuir cannage.

    cacio

    PS it occurs to me... of course we're talking about Chanel Cuir de Russie. I think there could...
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    Re: Help me navigate through some leathers

    Good list.

    Knize Ten and Cuir de Russie are always references, one more butch, floral but with a distinctive automotive vibe, the other smoother, sandalwoody. K10 does have a berry note, but the...
  56. Re: Does Le Labo Rose 31 smell like cinnamon chewing gum to you?

    For cinnamon, the current version of Old Spice is more like it. And Youth Dew also has a lot of cinnamon.

    cacio
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    I don't have the guide with me, but I think I remember they were there in the paperback edition, which has many more perfumes.

    cacio
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    Re: amouage and floris

    Epic vs Memoir is a matter of taste - woody vs green-herbal. Both are worthy.

    I can't say I like floris at all. As others were saying 89 is perhaps the only one worthy (I also have Stephanotis, a...
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    Re: Suggestions Needed

    Some examples:
    Bulgari Black is a rich oriental, but has a very modern twist of a rubber note on top.
    YSL M7 is dark and woody, with a hint of sweetness, but with a touch of the oud that's now...
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    Re: Le Labo City Exclusives

    I do find them good but vastly overpriced too, and I prefer the regular line overall. I own Cuir, an interesting leather vetiver. Gaiac should appeal to those who like modern woody incenses.

    cacio
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    Re: Can a man wear female fragrances?

    I see the situation. Perfume preferences can be so personal, plus your wife doesn't like perfume too much. I don't think it's worth to buy a perfume for her just because you get a good price on it,...
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    Re: On the hunt for a new frag.

    Perceptions vary, so it's hard to say about Egoiste, but your description seems a little strange. Some rose would be ok, but Egoiste is not sharp, it should be smooth. It's not woody or gourmand in...
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    Re: Can a man wear female fragrances?

    As others have said, there's no substitute to testing.

    Coco is a modern oriental, nothing stereotypically feminine but at the same time nothing particularly interesting either to my nose. If one...
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    Re: Your favorite diptyque fragrance for winter

    I prefer the vegetal/herbal side of Diptyque, I'm really not too much into the warmer stuff. But if I needed to choose, I'd say Volutes.

    cacio
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    Re: Contemplating heresy

    I love Youth Dew too - gorgeous oriental. And the bath oil is indeed really intense.

    I don't take baths, but showers. For the purpose, I mix a little Youth Dew oil with Eucerin unscented dry skin...
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    Re: Help me pick my SOTD for tomorrow

    I'd say Dior Homme is a little lighter than Egoiste, so I'd start with that. As the temperature drops further, then I'd introduce Egoiste.

    cacio
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    Re: Very first fragrance

    Everything is very vague. What I do remember is Aromatics Elixir, which my mom has been wearing for years. And then Rive Gauche and Calandre, which my sister was wearing. I also remember some Dior...
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    Re: ok, for my girlfriend?

    As dave was saying, Prada Candy is a pretty good for mainstream, despite what the name might lead one to believe. Very solid construction by perfumer Daniela Andrier. So why not go for that, since...
  69. Re: Describe the following 3 fragrances as creatively as you can in 25 words or less

    Kouros: a locker room with some guys just back from the gym, others showering, and others spraying a clean fougere on; urinals in the background. The current version has fewer unshowered guys, and...
  70. Re: Buying vintage on eBay: better sealed or open?

    As others were saying, it's always a risk. Usually, box and seal are better, but everything can happen.

    Note also that shrinkwrap and cellophane can be bad. I once absentmindedly bid on an old...
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    Re: Storing fragrances

    I am not an expert. But I don't think 30C for a few weeks will affect a perfume (does anybody actually think that perfume is shipped in cooled containers, rather than being tossed into a metal...
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    Re: HdP: Your Picks, and...

    Love 1740 (at least the original, I have not experimented with the reformulation), warm, big, definitely more cold weather than hot weather. Tuberose la animale is another standout for me, as per...
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    Re: Fragrance for a long flight.

    I often put on some vetiver on long flights, like Sycomore. In small doses.

    But then, more often than not, if I'm browsing a duty free, I end up spraying myself with plenty of stuff, likely...
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    Re: Caron Tabac Blond - Current versus Vintage

    Indeed. She also has a video with her most used perfumes:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8_GVgUbXEk
    a collection that, for the most part, I could see myself wearing.

    cacio
  75. Re: Jolie Madame bottles - different coloured juice.

    Vintage is more leathery. But I think the reformulation happened recently, so the left bottle could be just as good. I'm no expert in dating vintages. The fact that it's splash could mean it's...
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    Re: Caron Tabac Blond - Current versus Vintage

    Resurrecting this since I think it's a good place to mention a youtube video I just saw. it's by a beauty editor at the Guardian, Sali Hughes, who interviews another journalist (I believe, I'm not...
  77. Poll: Re: Amouage question... Epic, Jubilation or Interlude?!

    They are all good but different. Interlude is a bigger thing, resinous, rich. Jub is a radiant frankincense. And Epic a woody-floral. I have not smelled the reformulations, so I cannot say -...
  78. Thread: father

    by cacio
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    Re: father

    As others have said,what's the budget?

    I have always felt that vetivers are perfect for doctors. They smell clean and fresh, but not sporty or shrill. And this seems to fit well your description....
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    Re: Best blind buy from the amouage range

    Not quite a brand one wants to blind buy, at least for the cost.

    I'd say the safest bets could be Jub XXV and Dia - simply because they're easy to describe. Jub XXV is a radiant frankincense, and...
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    Re: Layering a Rose with other masculines

    I agree that a good rose fits very well in a masculine perfume. Sounds intriguing...

    I'm thinking either mixing the rose with something deep and musky, in the spirit of, say, rose ouds: eg.g....
  81. Thread: Designer candles

    by cacio
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    Re: Designer candles

    I like Diptyque a lot. They are a bit pricey (though not necessarily more than the Malones), but they do last a very long time. If you burn for 30' every week, one will last months. They also have a...
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    Re: rober de niro al pacino

    The traditional male italian perfumes were citrusy-fresh herbals (as exemplified by say Pino Silvestre, Acqua di Selva, or tuscany per uomo-the latter an american product inspired by the Italian...
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    Re: Clive christian colognes-i don't get it

    I find them well crafted but wildly overpriced. most of them are actually quite modern in feel, with woods, leather, and woody amber. There could be one or two that are floral, I don't know which...
  84. Re: Top 10 Niche fragrances with the best projection

    Etat Libre d'Orange Rien has beastly power, also in the sense that it makes one think about a beast (in a good way).
    Malle portrait of a lady has tremendous radiance.

    And in general the Amouage...
  85. Re: How is La Collection Couturier Parfumeur by Christian Dior ?

    1. Leather oud
    2. Eau Noire
    3. Vetiver
    4. Mitzah, Oud Ispahan, Patch imperial, Cologne Royal
    5. Ambre Nuit
    6. Granville, Gran Bal, New Look
    7. Bois d'argent, Milly la foret, Gris Montagne
  86. Replies
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    Re: Sample recommendations please

    You seem to gravitate towards fresher and cleaner perfumes, rather than heavier, warmer and sweet.

    Some other Diptyques are in the style, like the new Geranium odorata (more like an edc I don't...
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    Re: Job Interview Fragrance?

    As others were saying, everything you like will do, but it has be very very light. Ideally, the person sitting across the desk should not be able to smell, or at most smell very faintly.

    But...
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    Re: Sample bag smells very bad

    Washing the glass should help diminish or get rid of the smell. But fabric and wool keep scents for a very long time-you'll have to wait forever if you want to use the same bag.

    Btw, Fate man...
  89. Thread: Hello from NYC

    by cacio
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    Re: Hello from NYC

    You mean the sales assistant at BG was snooty towards you or you were just intimidated by the stately environment? The sales assistant are not very knowledgeable, they're there just to sell. However,...
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    Re: Exploring Caron more thoroughly

    Congrats!

    Well, I know simply have to go spray myself with my own little bottle...

    cacio
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    Re: Can someone tell me about the new Antaeus?

    I like the current Antaeus a lot. Deep, warm, woody-spicy. Vintage Antaeus was much bigger, with musks and other animalics, which have disappeared from the current version. Most perfume lovers,...
  92. Thread: Hello from NYC

    by cacio
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    Re: Hello from NYC

    Welcome!

    You seem to gravitate more towards cleaner-fresher but still elegant things. In this style, I do like vetivers, which smell fresh, slightly green, and natural. You have Grey vetiver,...
  93. Re: Looking for a new aftershave, any suggestions! :) (See details)

    For something ambery-leathery, Bulgari Black would be a great example. (note, this is bulgari black, not man in black, which I have not tried but understand is rather closer to man in black).

    I...
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    Re: Can you suggest me a SL for th colder months?

    As a master of orientals, many SL are perfect for the winter. Chergui certainly. Most SL last quite well.

    My favorite warm one is perhaps Jeux de peau, a hypergourmand (caramel, buttered bread,...
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    Re: Back to the classics: suggestions!

    Great list!

    Many of the classics have been toned down recently. Though many are still good, if not as strong as they were (kouros, for instance, has lost some of the dirty musk).

    Suggestions...
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    Poll: Re: Antaeus Chanel vs Habit Rouge edt

    A bit too much orange blossom in HR for me, better the spices and woods of Antaeus. (incidentally, I love Antaeus shower gel)

    cacio
  97. Re: New Member Looking for Discussion & Recommendations

    Welcome!

    If you want to move in a warmer/woodier direction:
    CDG2 man: this is a fresh lemony incense, sort of like a cold church. A bit avantgarde. Still fresh, but more complex than std sporty...
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    Re: Chanel No.19:Vintage vs New Reformulation?

    Pluran:

    too bad to hear about the sweetening of no 19. I had remained at the green-iris version. Even more scary about Cristalle. I sprayed recently and, sure, not much oakmoss, but it was still...
  99. Re: Affordable Vintage Niche/designer scents that smell fantastic! Compliment Getters that are vint

    In traditional male perfumery, off the top of my head, I've found for reasonable prices Monsieur Rochas (tobacco and citrus) and O de Lancome (the current is good too, but it goes in a green...
  100. Replies
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    484

    Re: Chanel No.19:Vintage vs New Reformulation?

    In general, the vintage had a rich, leathery drydown, which the modern one lacks (its drydown being fresher). I don't know the extent to which the vintage edc version had this note - in any case, I...
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