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  1. Replies
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    Re: waxy notes in rose otto bases

    I'll take your suggestion and give alcohol C-10 a try. Thanks again.
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    Re: waxy notes in rose otto bases

    Thank you, Paul. I hope all is well with you.
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    waxy notes in rose otto bases

    I have always enjoyed the waxy notes in both natural rose otto and the base Dorinia SA E. How could I get that kind of effect? I have of course done some research and ordered a few raw materials such...
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    Genius.

    Do you dabble in ionones?
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    What I said above was a general statement and had nothing to do with the information set forth in this thread. There are many ionones, and whether or not there is a CAS number provided, they can be a...
  6. Re: There's a good chance I have a 30ml bottle of mysore Sandalwood oil. Now whar

    It's hard to imagine that there was a time when you could lavishly splash on all the sandalwood oil you wanted.
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    Re: Gamma Methyl Ionone

    Ionone alert!

    Today I noticed that methyl ionone gamma pure (IFF) is being sold here: http://www.creatingperfume.com/methyliononegammapureisonaline95.aspx

    While these ionone products are...
  8. Re: Comme des Garcons - Zagorsk vs. Andy Tauer - Incense Extreme

    What it could mean is that Zagorsk actually has frankincense in it. It's highly probable (although I don't know for sure) that they both have a relatively large amount of Iso E. Tauer uses Indian...
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    Re: My Top 5 Worst of the Worst Fragrances

    Brut is a classical fougčre! How dare you!
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    Re: Carrot intead of Iris in perfume industry?

    deleted
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    Re: Carrot intead of Iris in perfume industry?

    Alpha-isomethyl ionone. Same stuff is in Dzongkha too, and it's the chemical responsible for the lipstick note in both.
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    Re: Gardenia note

    I have not personally done a gardenia, but you might first have a look at some demo formulas. I found this one through Good Scents:


    Fragrance Demo Formulas
    Gardenia 1
    Generic
    For Fragrance...
  13. Re: Designer "Type" Scents from The Fragrance Shop: Anybody Have Experience With These?

    I don't agree with the statements they make on their site about alcohol (in quotes below) http://thefragranceshop.com/whats-wrong-with-your-fragrance/

    "The alcohol filler has two main purposes:
    ...
  14. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Thanks Mumsy
  15. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Well this is definitely a question for one of the more experienced people here. However, if they all have the same unpleasant odor, it would most certainly have to do with the perfumer's alcohol. By...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    L'Artisan's Dzongkha has a very similar iris note. Same chemical in that one too.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    OK, I was in Sephora today and smelled Dior Homme. I then realized that I was wrong about methyl ionone alpha, and so I began to think it would have to be alpha-isomethyl ionone, which would itself...
  18. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    Were they exposed to light? What kind of containers were they in? Some of those are stable; for example, under normal conditions, galaxolide should not have been fried like that. If you want to know...
  19. Re: What type bottle for diluting Aroma Molecules?

    I don't use the dropper bottles either, but they sure would be convenient. I have the disposable plastic droppers, and they're the source of constant problems. I originally put my chemicals in...
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    No, I wondered if your disdain for vanillin was due to its widespread use as a rounding agent, but now I see that you must have been talking about its other uses.
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    Re: Madagascar Vanilla Absolute Supplier.

    Paul,

    Are you talking about its use as a rounding agent? Just curious.
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    By the way, DrSmellThis, your own suggestions are good ones too. I was more or less just defending my own suggestion, not trying to refute yours.
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    I do see your point there, and I myself have certainly fallen into the trap of using certain raw materials together just because I knew the accord was well established.

    I also remember how it...
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    Re: DIY Molecule 01/ (With additional scent)

    A good place to start would be the Grojsman accord:

    http://www.basenotes.net/threads/383874-Grojsman-Accord
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Ionones are more violet, and irones are more iris. Certain ionones smell more like iris than others. Methyl ionone alpha smells more like iris than something like isoraldeine 95. Irone alpha is, in...
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    Re: When do I use DPG?

    According to Curtis and Williams (2001), DPG is a highly polar compound and therefore a poor solvent for non-polar raw materials such as terpenes and oils rich in terpenes, such as citrus oils. It's...
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    Re: What is in Armani Si?

    This review has a few clues:

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2013/09/giorgio-armani-si-fragrance-review.html
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Thinking back on this thread, I realized that the importance of alpha irone could have been stressed a bit more. At least in my opinion, it is a very straightforward iris note.

    USA:...
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    Someone at my old job wore 1 Million and that stuff was unbelievably diffusive.
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    Ambrocenide is great. I hope it doesn't eventually come to be regarded with distaste like DHM.
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    Re: Stereotypical men's cologne

    What Paul and David said is definitely what I would have thought too. If I'm not mistaken, DrSmellThis is thinking of the aromatic fougčre. That's at least the name I've heard given to it. I remember...
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    Re: Group buy for GC/MS

    I've re-created a few via GC/MS. What was probably most helpful was the detective work and research that went into analyzing the analysis itself. Now I know quite a bit more than I used to about the...
  33. Thread: Ambreine

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Ambreine

    I came across this thread after reading the following passage from Perfumery: Practice and Principles:

    The Oriental Perfumes: Shalimar, Must de Cartier, Obsession, Youth Dew, Opium, Coco

    The...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I can only speak with certainty about methyl ionone alpha. I am 100% confident that it is what the thread starter is looking for.
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    Scroll down and have a look at the ingredients for this Lancome lipstick. There you will see alpha-isomethyl ionone, one of the main ingredients in Paul's formula. Apparently, this is a "retro"...
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    Re: Orris Root Absolute

    I wish I had seen this thread sooner. I have actually spent a lot of time looking for the iris note I believe you are looking for. After searching for a long time, a very sharp blogger suggested...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Try this book. If you can only get one, get this. It's probably the closest thing to a comprehensive introduction: http://www.amazon.com/Introduction-Perfumery-Tony-Curtis/dp/096087528X

    This one...
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    Re: Help going broke...substitutions ?

    Givaudan makes a synthetic bergamot that is a lot cheaper than the real thing. I've tried it and it's pretty good: http://shop.perfumersapprentice.com/p-5935-bergamot-g-fragrance.aspx

    As people...
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    the waxiest fragrances

    I love anything that smells waxy. What are the waxiest fragrances?
  40. Re: Guerlain Santal Royal - Harrods Exclusive + other news

    Did you get it at Tysons Galleria?
  41. Replies
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    Re: Iris, Orris, & Orris Root?

    I have recently been trying to find the chemical responsible for the lipstick note in iris fragrances. Now I'm pretty sure it's methyl ionone alpha. It's definitely interesting and worth trying.
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Cardamom has a lot of eucalyptol in it, and whenever I use it, it seems to give the top notes lift. I don't know if lift is the right word, but I think you know what I mean. I think the eucalyptol...
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Estragole (methyl chavicol) isn't mentioned above. It's the main constituent of tarragon oil. I just got it in the mail, and now I wonder what else I'm missing.

    I must say I've been struggling...
  44. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    That's exactly what my orris looks like now; you could describe it as a waxy slush. I suppose that's what we have to put up with if we want to use that material. Now I see what all the hype is about.
  45. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    Thanks, Paul. I think I'll just have to dilute it further. I really don't like the idea of heating it every time I want to use some. I'm already worried I scorched it the first time.
  46. Re: How to disolve orris absolute and orris butter in alcohol by drops???

    I just warmed some iris CO2 and diluted to 50% in ethanol, but it turned solid again as soon as it cooled. Is that normal? I realize that there might not be a clear answer to this, but how much heat...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Olibanum Resinoid - I burn a lot of incense. One day a friend told me that there are incense perfumes, which is how my journey into perfumery started.

    Dorinia SA E - Waxy and great all on its own....
  48. Thread: Orris root

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Orris root

    Is orris tincture usually pretty inexpensive? This is the first time I've seen it for sale, and it is quite affordable:
    ...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I recently read in a textbook that musk ketone in combination with benzyl salicylate creates a powdery effect. I have not personally tried it, however.
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    I definitely see what you mean there. Studies like that are bad for the art of perfumery when they needlessly lead to the reformulation and discontinuation of fragrances, and now I regret posting it....
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    IFF's space rose

    I was browsing the internet and found a chromatogram for "space rose" oil, so I wondered what that was. Apparently, IFF had NASA fly a rose plant into space. They found that the space rose had a...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Well, I wasn't fear mongering, but I guess it came across that way. It was simply a matter of finding that study (link provided) interesting and wanting to share it with the Basenotes community....
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    The effect of cardamom on a composition

    Does anyone find that cardamom does more to a composition than merely add a cardamom top note? For example, it seems to me that its effect makes the composition more harmonious and integrated. I...
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    Re: Interesting sensitizer table

    Yeah, don't wear that stuff on the beach.
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    Interesting sensitizer table

    The table shows some common sensitizers and whether or not various popular perfumes have them. Refer to this link for further information:
    ...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I'm not sure if this has been posted anywhere on Basenotes yet, but it contains the ingredients of many famous perfumes: http://content.yudu.com/Library/A1vakd/NotSoSexyTheHealthRi/resources/30.htm
  57. Thread: Dorinia SA

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Dorinia SA

    Does anyone have any idea what's in SA E? Maybe just a guess? It smells great.
  58. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Just glancing at the base notes, it seems as if all of them are known for being powdery:

    05 - Opoponax - yes
    03 - C - cumarin ?
    01 - V - vanilla - ?
    05 - MK - musk ketone

    I just blended...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Just glancing at the base notes, it seems as if all of them are known for being powdery:

    05 - Opoponax - yes
    03 - C - cumarin ?
    01 - V - vanilla - ?
    05 - MK - musk ketone
  60. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I think the tonka tincture is part of why you aren't getting enough of a powdery effect. How much coumarin is in it? Also, are you using straight vanillin or an absolute?

    I remember blending...
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    Re: outdoing the emperor

    They were made that way to fit in his boot.

    Splashing on more than one bottle a day is the secret to making a citrus fragrance last. I think that's the only explanation for his using so much.
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    outdoing the emperor

    Napoleon Bonaparte went through 50 bottles of eau de cologne a month. Has anyone here on Basenotes gone through that much before?
  63. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Great info! The emperor clearly understood the secret to making a citrus fragrance last all day: carry the bottle around and pour it on at regular intervals. 50 bottles a month is really admirable. I...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Now that I think about it, Napoleon's cologne would likely have been a typical eau de cologne of his day, and he probably had many suppliers. Perhaps he had access to higher quality ingredients than...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Thank you, Mumsy. Basically, as far as I know, the formula that was actually discovered came from St. Helena (found among the belongings of one of his servants). However, that one would have been...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Good idea. I could use a nice eau de cologne. You know, while we're on the subject, has anyone read about Napoleon's eau de cologne? They apparently found the recipe, and I would expect something...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    That's interesting.
  68. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    A third Chanel No 5 formula. I recently read in Perfumery: Practice and Principles that aldehydes make up 1% of Chanel No 5, which is what I see here in this formula. In the knockoff posted above,...
  69. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Here's a formula for the famous Russian cologne "Troynoy" by Novaya Zarya: I don't know if it's the real thing or not; in fact, it probably isn't. Anyway, it looks like a typical eau de cologne. When...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    No prob, Mumsy. I think coumarin and musk ketone are the main powdery materials in that recipe, so perhaps you could add more of those after a few days if it still isn't powdery enough. Rose in...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Considering the high percentages of rosewood, lavender, and bergamot, the intro should be completely dominated by linalool. It makes up roughly 16% of the concentrate (depending on the type of...
  72. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    What does the L.G. stand for? Givaudan sold a product called Opoponax LG 55, which was a resinoid replacer.
  73. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I think you're right about its being a collection of recreations. The column on the right says "Suggestions for Jicky by Carles." Someone apparently consulted a certain Carles. Could it be the famous...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    I haven't tried it. I just found it this morning.
  75. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Jicky formula?

    http://www.mbenjaminkatzfinebooksraremanuscripts.com/shop_image/product/0001929_d93c959c97a721ec1ef3d2991323accb.jpg
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    The other secret is having the patience to wait a week or two after mixing. All too often, I smell it right after mixing and dismiss it as a complete failure. Either that or I start adding more oils...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Yes, I have to say that even with the help of GC/MS, it still takes a lot of skill and experience to copy a perfume. I have been working on a few for the last several months, and even though I know...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    While we're on the topic, I should note that the formulas from the old Perfumer's Apprentice site, while not exactly the same, are probably closest to the real thing. Some formulas on the two Russian...
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    They appear to be included with the bottle now. I could not find any on the site.

    http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0OBGXBcO__Q/UEy8b1dZFSI/AAAAAAAAB88/NtaHlqviuYY/s1600/prelude.jpg
  80. Replies
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    Also, this Russian site seems to have compiled formulas from several other sites (including the Russian site mentioned above). Scroll down and you will see a list in Latin script....
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    Re: Search recipes or formula of disigner

    A Perfumer's Apprentice Shalimar re-creation:

    30 Lemon
    175 Bergamot
    35 Tarragon 10%
    5 Neroli
    20 coriander
    25 Clary Sage 10%
    20 Linalool
    40 Lavender
  82. Replies
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    Re: all-around enhancers

    Thanks for all the replies. What originally got me thinking about this was the thread on the Grojsman accord. Also, there's the Guerlinade, which is supposedly added to all of their perfumes (I doubt...
  83. Replies
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    Re: all-around enhancers

    When I say "all-around enhancer" I mean that you can indiscriminately add the chemical or oil to any perfume and make it better. Hedione is probably the best example of such a chemical. Obviously,...
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    all-around enhancers

    Throughout basenotes and perfumery textbooks, I have often read that such and such a raw material will enhance nearly any perfume. The following are some of the more common ones mentioned:

    Hedione...
  85. Re: Green-Metallic Rose Accord with chemicals. How to build it???

    I've been looking into this matter over the last few months, and I still have a lot to learn. I've found that two important factors are the type of rose (Bulgarian, Turkish, etc.) you wish to imitate...
  86. What fragrance would German ambient artist Thomas Köner wear?

    I have enjoyed Thomas Köner's music for a while now, and I wonder what fragrance he would wear. It would have to be cold.
  87. Thread: Opoponax

    by ToddHuyett
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    Re: Opoponax

    I had some of the absolute from Hermitage, and I must say that it's one of my favorite materials. It smells like toffee and toast, and when diluted it turns the solution red. Now I wonder if...
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    Re: Note Sensitivity: Woody Ambers

    My girlfriend is definitely sensitive to woody-amber notes. She describes some of them as smelling "as strong as bleach," although in an odor intensity sense, not odor quality. I accidentally got...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I recently heard someone complaining that copycat fragrances "smell like the real thing, but they don't last as long." This was an ordinary consumer, not a perfumer. This leads me to believe that...
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    Re: Perfume duplication by GCMS

    I'm an advocate of studying GC tests for educational purposes. Aspiring musicians study symphonies, so why shouldn't we do the same thing? I can therefore see some justification in trying to...
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Do they have an address?
  92. Replies
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    Re: Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    Well then I guess someone will have to send them some samples.
  93. Replies
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    Turin, Sanchez, and the CdG Incense Series

    I have been a reader and fan of Perfumes: The A-Z Guide for a couple of years now, and I have never understood the absence of the CdG incense series. Now obviously, certain perfumes had to be cut...
  94. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    In a way, this reminds me of the modern tendency to use extremely large amounts of Iso E Super in certain perfumes (in its role as a blender). Both are easily dominated by other notes, yet they bring...
  95. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thank you for the link. Interesting reading.
  96. Re: Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    Thanks for the answer. When I have these questions, I usually just study demo formulas and experiment, but ambergris is a bit more mysterious (and expensive), so I wanted to hear some opinions....
  97. Determining the correct amount of ambergris tincture

    I've had some ambergris tincture from Hermitage for a while (2%), but I'm not sure how much to use. Although it must vary from perfume to perfume, what would a typical amount be?
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I think that would have to depend on the particular absolute (whether its consumption is safe). If I'm not mistaken, clove bud absolute (which contains eugenol) can cause liver damage, organic or...
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    Re: fragrance DIY in dreams

    I had elderflower and rose lemonade from England the other day. It was my first floral beverage. I guess those aren't very common over here.

    Thanks for sharing, everyone!
  100. Replies
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I don't think anyone here would be comfortable telling you to move forward with the project. For one thing, we aren't even talking about food; while I might have something to say about flavoring your...
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