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  1. Replies
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    Re: Best "Sport" Fragrance

    I like some body sprays by Lush. Especially the vetivery Smuggler's soul (which is however not sold in the US), but also the fresh and minty Dirty and the lemony Dad's garden.

    cacio
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    Re: Best cozy milky powdery scent

    Safran troublant is very creamy and milky, with saffron.
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    Re: What Are Your Favourite Vintage Chypres?

    There are usually bottles of the 80s reissue of Chypre available, and they are spray and sealed, so it's usually the right thing, if not in perfect state.

    Private collection is definitely a...
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    Re: What Are Your Favourite Vintage Chypres?

    You mean those in their current form, or those in vintage?

    Certainly Coty Chypre - literally chypre 1.0 - the basic accord in its full glory. The 80s reissue was still excellent. Sometimes it can...
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    Re: 1725, Casanova, and the darn dab!

    You are making a good point.

    I have not read his (long) biography, just bit, and those bits were spicy. But of course the biography is probably full of invented episodes. In any case, he was not...
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    Re: Help with wedding day Scent

    Congratulations on your wedding!

    I like the idea of Amouage, they tend to be big and good for celebrations. Rather than Reflection though (which, good as it might be, to me seems to have a less...
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    Re: NEW : Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris

    I smelled this today at the store. Standard fruity, an attempt to catch up with La vie est belle. Of course by now standard means that sugar is added until just short of crystallization. I suspect...
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    Re: Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

    It's a very good price. It's discontinued, and, before it became so, it costed at least twice as much.

    cacio
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    Re: 1725, Casanova, and the darn dab!

    Great description.

    I've always found the HdP historical references quite off the mark (as often in perfumery). I see how you now associate it with Casanova, though to my nose Casanova should be...
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    Re: Hermes Bel Ami - new bottle = reformulation?

    I'm resurrecting this because today by chance I sprayed Bel Ami at Nordstrom, on skin, then went through the day. i am now in the drydown, which evidently I had not paid much attention to before. On...
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    Re: Beast mode fragrances

    Youth Dew bath oil is inexpensive and still a monster (more so than the perfume)
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    Re: Sahara Noir by Tom Ford

    I have not seen around in the US recently, so I suspect it has been discontinued, at least here.

    Still a wonderful frankincense.

    cacio
  13. Re: NEW: Christian Louboutin Launches Initial Three Scents!

    No stiletto heels? I agree that the bottles look ugly.

    The descriptions don't seem that interesting. Of interest, the fact that they cite synthetics, as it seems to happen more and more often.
    ...
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    Re: Ideas for Repurpose

    As tmoran, I was also thinking that using it for room perfumes might be an idea.

    cacio
  15. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    Thanks for reporting. Gotta get out to Shoshana then.

    cacio
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    Re: Hair Treatments/Masks/Hot Oil, etc.

    I have fallen behind the explosion of products in recent years - it seems there's one for any possible effect one wants to get.

    I think some people here like a lot argan oil. I use whatever oil I...
  17. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    Note that the Saks (woman) in Friendship heights is technically in MD. I believe the tax is pretty much the same.
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    Re: Zagorsk or Slumberhouse Norne

    To me, Norne is darker, but I prefer Zagorsk. If you find Avignon not fresh enough for the summer, though, I fear both of them will be dark too - it's not that the pine note makes them particularly...
  19. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    Chanel exclusives are sold either at Saks on Wisconsin avenue (about 5 min walk north of the Friendship heights metro stop) or in the Chanel boutique in the Galeria at Tyson's corner (the smaller,...
  20. Re: Your Favourite Female Extrait ?...either for wearing as a male - or just appreciating.

    Does eau premiere exist in extrait?

    cacio
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    Re: Need Niche Suggestions ?

    A favorite house of mine is Etat Libre d'Orange. They last very well on me. Rien Incense Intense is probably the strongest, almost nuclear power. But most are worth trying, like Tom of Finland, Je...
  22. Re: Any fragrances where the dry powdery makeup iris stays around the whole time?

    In mainstream, seconding Dior Homme (lipstick + woods and coffee). If you are willing to go into expensive territory, Chanel Misia is the powdery lipstick accord on its own, lasting forever. I've...
  23. Re: Dilemma: Winter/Evening Fragrances in Summer, Daytime, Hotter Climates

    As others were saying, if you like to wear something, do so. After all, as you point out, you're probably going to stay inside in air conditioned room most of the time anyway.

    Personally, I think...
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    Re: Histoires de Parfums Discovery Set

    What are some of the notable goofs?

    In any case, a good line, with some standouts, so enjoy!

    cacio
  25. Re: Buying Decanters/Travel Vials etc in Larger Sizes!

    Like epapsiou, I also buy from bestbottles.

    These bottles don't cost much, so it's just easier to keep each for a unique perfume. But if you are not a purist, it's ok to wash and reuse. The new...
  26. Re: Ambroxan. Can we get it banned as a fragrance ingredient?

    I quite dislike both too, when overdosed. And I do find ambroxan relatively woody sharp too - as many other woody ambers.

    Unfortunately, they're overdosed in most modern masculines. Indeed, I...
  27. Re: I don't smell the [insert note] in [insert fragrance]

    I have problem distinguishing the rose in many perfumes supposedly containing it (from Egoiste on).

    I agree with some of the perfumes you mention - they're so smoothly composed that it's hard to...
  28. Re: what is a cologne with a similar smell to aramis?

    Estee Lauder Azuree is a companion: same company (despite the name), same perfumer, very close. Aramis is muskier, whereas Azuree has more citrus up top.

    Otherwise, I agree with the suggestion for...
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    Re: Eden - cacharel ???

    Glad you're enjoying. It's definitely unique.

    For me, a pool with brackish water-I like to swim and sometimes when I get out of certain pools, I have the impression of emanating quite a rotten...
  30. Thread: I Need Some Help

    by cacio
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    Re: I Need Some Help

    Welcome!

    Indeed, a lot of the stuff you find on a Sephora shelf can be quite depressing.

    For old style, at Nordstrom you could check things like Chanel Egoiste and Antaeus (sadly not as...
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    Re: Seeking wildflowers/garden flowers fragrance

    Welcome!

    Not sure about specific flowers, but perhaps the brand Dyptique, with its natural/garden aesthetic, has things that fit, such as for instance Jardin clos.

    Regarding the other flowers...
  32. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    The neighborhood has indeed changed- it looks like U is now becoming an extension of 14th, thanks to all those 20 something professionals. I went to Le Labo again last weekend to pick up some bath...
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    Re: You know you're a fraghead when...

    As a European, I have never consciously smelled skunk - but have always been interested in knowing how it smells. From a distance, that is.

    cacio
  34. Thread: Oils vs sticks

    by cacio
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    Re: Oils vs sticks

    For oils, you don't necessarily need to dilute them. You can just drop them on a suitable surface, or use a cotton ball or a piece of fabric. The key is then that they are placed in a very warm...
  35. Re: What type of fragrance would you like to see added to Chanel Les Exclusifs line?

    Not much carnation around, true. It was once the territory of Caron (compared to the iris of Chanel), but Caron has dropped it long ago. Plus, I think I read that by restricting isoeugenol, IFRA has...
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    Re: When Did You Stop Your Collection?

    I have not stopped yet and still feel satisfaction when I buy something really good. I have more than 100 bottles. But it's true that I have slowed down a lot. Now I only buy things that I really...
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    Re: Bottega Veneta Pour Homme=Terre D'Hermes?

    Perhaps you're getting the iso-e? As others were saying, Tdh has orange and then it becomes sort of sweetish woody. BV is perhaps more smooth leathery.

    cacio
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    Re: Would you buy a scent called Woody Swamp if...

    Putrid swamp with alligator leather notes...

    I dislike marine so I wouldn't like any such concoction, but I'm all for strange notes if they work well. In any case, putrid swamp perfumes exist...
  39. Thread: pluriel MFK

    by cacio
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    Re: pluriel MFK

    I wouldn't say it smells like APOM (or Aqua universalis), but it's in similar styles in the sense that it is a fresh, familiar masculine theme and crafts it well, if perhaps without exciting twists.
  40. Thread: pluriel MFK

    by cacio
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    Re: pluriel MFK

    I agree with freewheeling. Pluriel is classical, harmonious and very well done, in Kurkdjian's style. More centered on lavender. Invasion is more unique, more synthetic, if you will, and ultimately I...
  41. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    Thanks, I always mix up the names - for me it's going left or right when I exit the subway...

    cacio
  42. Thread: Washington DC?

    by cacio
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    Re: Washington DC?

    Please report on the arielle shoshana store. It's so far out I never end up there.

    Also remember that Tyson galeria and II are one next to each other, so you can see both of them. The galeria has...
  43. Re: Help me pick out a new fragrance! Prefer niche, from Saks!

    My Saks carries the exclusive lines of Chanel and Dior, so the obvious fresh and elegant perfume is Chanel Sycomore (a woody vetiver).

    Re the ones you mention, Tuscan leather doesn't really seem...
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    Re: Cologne Suggestion for My Father's Birthday

    The Italian perfume occupying the same market segment would be Pino silvestre. Cheap, universally considered male, and all purpose. But I don't know how easy it is to find here, in Italy it would be...
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    Re: Fragrance Calculation

    There were a few threads in the past. A rule of thumb is 10 spritzes per ml, so 10 x 100 / 4 = 250.
    But as yarn was saying, atomizers vary so if the sprays are bigger, it could be less than that.
    ...
  46. Re: Do you like all the notes of your favourite perfumes?

    As hitman, I tend to perceive perfumes as whole accords. But as you said, sometimes certain notes just stick out. If they do and I don't like them, then the perfume it's a no go (examples would be...
  47. Thread: Good reading

    by cacio
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    Re: Good reading

    Perfumes are now developed by a few large aromachemical companies (the big oil companies, to use Turin's expression). So any professional information is shared within the company, not through...
  48. Thread: chypre palatin

    by cacio
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    Re: chypre palatin

    Both are very good. It depends on what you want. Invasion Barbare is a new fougere, so it's about the effect of clean and well groomed, but in a modern way. Chypre Palatin is warmer and smoother,...
  49. Re: patchouli fragrances vs essential oils/incense

    Not an expert either, but usually with complex natural materials, different extraction methods or grade quality generate different smell profiles. So perfumers choose appropriately depending on the...
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    Re: Occasional scents

    Nothing set in stone, but there are some perfumes that are so big and formal that seem made for celebrations, like Amouage Gold man. And then Nuit de Noel, which gets worn on said day.

    cacio
  51. Thread: Good reading

    by cacio
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    Re: Good reading

    If you read French, the Osmotheque has very informative news bullettins. they used to have also a good bibliography on their website, but I don't think it's there anymore. Among their suggested ones,...
  52. Re: A summer scent for a Bottega Veneta Eau Legere/ Daim Blond lover?

    I love Azuree too. I don't get any pine from it. It's a confident leather with a citrus top. Not as soft as the ones you mentioned, but not as butch as, say, Bandit or Rien.

    cacio
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    Re: scent teaching kit ?

    Just by chance, another thread today talked about accords and odor perceptions.Citing from the thread:

    "Studies conducted in the 1990s asked people to identify odor molecules in random mixtures;...
  54. Re: Johann Maria Farina and the Eau de Cologne story

    Thanks for the information, very intriguing, I did not know of the vicissitudes. I'll have to get some of the original Farina sooner or later. Indeed, true edc are fleeting, but that's the purpose....
  55. Re: A summer scent for a Bottega Veneta Eau Legere/ Daim Blond lover?

    Most Hermes were composed by the same perfumer (JC Ellena) and so tend to have a consistent style (variously defined as transparent acqueous floral). If you like one, you're probably going to like...
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    Re: Top 12 Fragrance Collection

    Without concerns for the budget - just because.

    6. Etat Libre d'Orange Rien intense incense: animalic powerhouse leather
    7. Chanel Sycomore: elegant vetiver
    8. Lush Smuggler's soul body spray:...
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    Re: Fragrance for Record Breaking Heat Wave

    For the hot weather (like here in DC), I tend to go for vetivers, which smell fresh, natural, slightly green and vegetal. Favorites include ($$$) Chanel Sycomore and Malle Vetiver extraordinaire.
    ...
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    Re: Parallel Industries: Wine and Fragrances

    Welcome!

    Not an expert here, but clearly, smells are a big component of both industries. Perfume obviously has much more freedom, since one can mix thousands of ingredients at will (IFRA...
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    Re: Smell article and Laudamiel perfume line

    Great article! Very informative.

    And thanks for the scoop. Hmm, does it mean there will be a castoreum perfume? Let's hope so.

    cacio
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    Re: scent teaching kit ?

    Some websites (like perfumersapprentice or perfumersworld) sell materials kits. It can be expensive, though, there are hundreds of materials and things add up.

    One should also point out that it is...
  61. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    Does the tabu powder smell like the perfume? (I once bought a Tabu body cream but it didn't smell like the perfume). In any case, if it does, definitely worth it - it's one of those cheapies that are...
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    Re: Places to buy vintage fragrances

    You can probably use ebay, though shipping could be a problem. And keep an eye on flea markets - from my limited experience, I think that European flea markets have better perfume finds than US...
  63. Re: A summer scent for a Bottega Veneta Eau Legere/ Daim Blond lover?

    I like leathers too, but as you, I tend to wear them when it's colder. The one leather I think can work for the summer is Acqua di Parma leather, but the leather there is sharp and brutalistic, not...
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    Re: Chanel Cuir de Russie vs Amouage Epic man

    Tom of Finland and Azuree are more leathery than the CdR style. Relatively inexpensive here in the US (respectively $95 and $50 for 50ml), but who knows what happens to the price in Brazil.

    Cuir...
  65. Re: Wearing Sample from Le Labo "The Noir 29". My thoughts so far.

    I have not tried the Creed, so I cannot compare. The Noir comes off as greenish woody to me. Very pleasant, and with good longevity as most Le Labo. I prefer the bolder, more unique Le Labos, but I...
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    Re: Chanel Cuir de Russie vs Amouage Epic man

    Epic is very good, but, as others, I don't perceive it as particularly leathery, it's more oudy. I think the smokier and more leathery things in Amouage are Interlude or Tribute.

    If you want a...
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    Re: Best sand fragrances

    I agree with Dune (for women): the Hershey chocolate base is particularly dusty.

    cacio
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    Re: Looking for Ideas for a Casual Summer Frag....

    For the gym or the like, I wear things like Lush Dirty body spray, fresh and minty. In Europe, they also have Smuggler's soul body spray (vetivery), but it's not sold in the US, sadly-here one can...
  69. Re: Gift for Mom's birthday - Penhaligon's perfume like Oscar?

    Oscar is a powerhouse clean tuberose, if I remember correctly. I can't think of anything remotely resembling that in Penhaligon-certainly not more luxurious. Plus, as others were saying, it's hard...
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    Re: A "fresh" licorice fragrance?

    Seconding Eau de Reglisse (if found) and Brin de Reglisse, which are fresh. As most fresh perfumes, not particularly long lasting.
  71. Re: Super Newb. Looking for Recs on Gothic Fragrances plus more.....

    Welcome!

    I'm thinking Fazzolari Lampblack (the name gives an idea) or Histoires de Parfums Petroleum (which smells like entering a damp cavern).

    cacio
  72. Re: Need advice: montale store paris: what to get

    Oud cuir d'arabie sounds like a good one. I like also Aoud Lime, but as usual it's not clear whether it has been reformulated.

    cacio
  73. Replies
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    Re: Please help a newbie with advice

    Welcome!

    Good suggestions already. If you want something a little more avantgarde, you can look into CDG2 man (fresh incense).

    cacio
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    Re: May I have a discussion about Barney's?

    Barney's is one of my favorite stores for perfumes.

    They carry CDG and Diptyque, which you should be able to smell elsewhere as well (ie no blind purchases): CDG2 man, Vetiveru, Ombre dans l'eau...
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    Re: Packaging bottles for moving

    It seems like a good arrangement. The problem would be splash bottle with non-screw stoppers. If you have any of these, you need to be extra careful, because they can leak.

    cacio
  76. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    I had the name wrong, I was referring to this one
    http://www.kerastase-usa.com/bain-riche/BAR001.html?cgid=cleanse-shampoo&dwvar_BAR001_size=250%20ML#start=2&cgid=cleanse-shampoo

    (not sure how...
  77. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    It's sold at CVS and similar stores as well (I think Kerastase is the fancy hair product brand of L'oreal). Unfortunately, the $$$$ part is quite noticeable. (In Europe, it's still $$$$, but it's...
  78. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    If you like sandalwood scented bath products, $$$$ Kerastase oleo satin shampoo smells gorgeously sandalwoody, though it doesn't last much.

    cacio
  79. Re: Annick goutal eau de camillie 2.3oz I own it anybody know what it's worth

    I like it a lot-great find.

    As donna was saying, this is not a collectible or rare perfume, nor has it been disfigured by reformulation. So you probably won't have a big market. I would check...
  80. Re: Is the Non Magnetic Cap version of Interlude man worth it?

    Thanks for the info! Good to know that for once fears are unwarranted. Unfortunately, this is not true of other Amouages, but one gets what one can.

    cacio
  81. Re: Is it wrong for me to like Tom Ford's Jasmine Rouge as a 'guy'?

    If you didn't recognize a perfume as feminine, then other people won't either. Tom Ford markets his private collection perfumes as unisex. I like to wear jasmines a lot too, Joy and Sarrasins (other...
  82. Thread: Masculine Iris?

    by cacio
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    Re: Masculine Iris?

    DH is the obvious example.

    In niche, Le Labo Iris is quite rooty and fresh, so perfectly masculine.

    cacio
  83. Re: Is there a fresh scent that stays fresh throughout

    To my nose, some vetivers remain fresh for a long time, especially things like $$$$ Vetiver extraordinaire. A less expensive one would be CDG Vetiveru, although it may not last 5 hrs in the heat....
  84. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    Good to know that there are good reconstructions.

    I've never used these powders, so please report. I think Guerlain used to do some of them, but not sure they're still doing. I once found a Fracas...
  85. Thread: Under the sea

    by cacio
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    Re: Under the sea

    I've often had the impression that marines smell like dying sea life, so this is probably an ingredient of many perfumes. Which I don't wear. (One of the worst offenders being Tirrenico by Profumi...
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    Re: Need hep deciding..

    The MFK and Invasion Barbare sound like great possibilities.

    I would have said a vetiver, for me it works very well in hot weather. But it seems you don't really like it. Chanel Sycomore is a bit...
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    Re: Nombre noir miniature

    I too agree that the miniatures are likely real. I bought one in the past and it was ok. Unfortunately, it is the case that collectors have cleaned out most of the supply. Which is why they cost...
  88. Thread: Bath Powders

    by cacio
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    Re: Bath Powders

    Ignorant here -bath powder as in talcum powder to dust the body with?

    cacio
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    Re: Best ethereal incense?

    I would say too that Bois d'encens (or the defunct Sahara Noir) is big but airy, it smells mostly of frankincense without the baggage of ambers, smoke, or woods.

    cacio
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    Re: Osmothèque celebrates 25 years!

    They may have a smelling session on that day. If not, you can ask whether they can prepare the regular set of smelling strips for you, and you'll pay the cost of a session. There's nothing to see at...
  91. Thread: Coty Airspun

    by cacio
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    Coty Airspun

    Over the weekend, I stopped at a Walmart, for the first time in years. I saw that piece of history, Coty Airspun face powder, of which I have a vintage box. Some youtube makeup reviewers were very...
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    Re: What are YOU anosmic to?

    I think I'm mostly anosmic to galaxolide. I've smelled it once and didn't detect much, and some perfumes that reportedly contain a lot of galaxolide (like Kiehls musk) smell very weak to me.
    ...
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    Re: Civet replacer and Castoreum LIquid

    You have it right. Civet is most famous for floral bouquet, especially jasmine (think Joy), and castoreum for warm leathery notes.
    Not an expert, so I don't know about the closest or best synthetic...
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    Re: Help me complete my collection

    Welcome!

    I think vetivers work very well for hot weather. If you want something other than Tom Ford Grey Vetiver, you can check Guerlain vetiver, or, for a more avantgarde take, CDG2 man.

    cacio
  95. Re: Where to spray if only one spray is needed in a strong fragrance ?

    There's really no rule - it depends on temperature and your preferences. If it's warm outside, spraying on exposed skin could mean that the perfume evaporates too fast. So I would do under, eg chest...
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    Re: Osmothèque celebrates 25 years!

    Their schedule should be here
    http://www.osmotheque.fr/en/visits/
    I don't know what "exceptional events" are. I guess if one contacts them they'll send a proper schedule.

    cacio
  97. Replies
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    Re: Osmothèque celebrates 25 years!

    The Osmotheque organizes frequent sniffing sessions, so one has to sign up for one. I've been to a few of those, and they were really interesting.

    cacio
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    Re: Scents that I have not smelled yet!

    All good choices. I think l'anarchiste is probably the easiest on the nose for somebody who's not into perfume. I find it a bit too modern masculine for my taste. The OJ will probably do too, very...
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    Re: Osmothèque celebrates 25 years!

    Thanks for posting. What a wonderful event!
    The osmotheque is a fantastic place. I wish I could be there more often to sniff all the goodies.

    cacio
  100. Re: Best smelling summer niche scent (crowd pleaser)

    I'd say in Amouage Lyric man is fresher and would be a better crowd pleaser.

    cacio
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