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  1. Replies
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    Re: Older fragrances with prominent birch tar

    All the great classic leathers. Caron Tabac Blond had plenty of bite. Chanel Cuir de Russie also had birch tar (at least in the parfum reconstruction I smelled at the osmotheque-the quality was less...
  2. Re: Noob with particular tastes seeking recommendations

    Welcome!

    It does seem you like leathers and dark materials. If you get the chance to look into niche perfumes, I recommend one of the darkest and most animalic leathers, Rien by Etat Libre...
  3. Re: Patchouli 24 / Lonestar Memories, are they similar to Bvlgari Black?

    I agree on the wearability of patch 24. by chance, somebody was spraying it on himself in the gym locker room last week, and smelled from a distance it was stark but perfectly presentable. (In this...
  4. Re: What fragrances remind you of Christmas/Winter?

    In addition to the above mentioned La fille en aguille and Egoiste, I'm also thinking warm gourmands like Lubin Korrigan.
  5. Re: Anyone here ever wash shoes in the washing machine?

    Gym shoes? gym shoes can usually be washed in a washing machine. Avoid high temperatures which can melt plastic parts. Some people put the shoes in laundry bags to give a little protection. I would...
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    Re: Fall/Winter Vanilla fragrance

    Hermes Vanille Galante. Or that well known classic, Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille.
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    Re: Recommend me an orange citrus frag?

    No strong woody amber in the drydown of Azemour (unlike Citron noir...). Azemour recalls old greenish-citrus chypres.
  8. Re: Patchouli 24 / Lonestar Memories, are they similar to Bvlgari Black?

    The similarity is that all three employ leathery-smoky notes to great effect. I concur with sjg that Bulgari Black is more about rubber (and feels plusher), while the le labo is more about tar, and...
  9. Re: What time period do you consider "The Golden Age" of Fragrances?

    Like diamond, I'd also say the 1920s.
  10. Replies
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    Re: Recommend me an orange citrus frag?

    I second Azemour. It recalls old chypres, and has a green note that I like a lot.

    (Alpona was an old citrus chypre too, but given Caron's downward spiral, I doubt it is in a decent state, if still...
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    Re: Aramis Tuscony is it better then Azzaro pH ?

    In current form, I prefer Tuscany, which smells more natural (if a bit weak). Current Azzaro is a bit synthetic to my nose.
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    Re: are there resins with less sweetness?

    The notes I know under the "resins and balsams" entry tend to be either very sweet, or very bitter, almost burnt (like birch tar or coal tar).
    Frankincense is probably closest, but I don't think...
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    Re: Need Recommendations for Three Aunts

    Definitely fresh and good for the heat.
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    Re: Laudamiel's The Zoo

    On the website, I noticed two perfumes I had not seen before. Has anybody smelled them?

    No perfume: described wood leather smoke incognito-so very interesting. Also apparently contains an...
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    Re: Frag Newbie ... What Should I Do Next?

    (1 + 2 ) Actually, the perfume industry is heavily regulated. EU laws are pretty strict and the industry follows them (they don't formulate things differently in different countries), and the...
  16. Re: Fig or Sandalwood body butter or creme or lotion recommendation

    Diptyque has a body lotion of Philosykos, its fig perfume.
  17. Thread: What next

    by cacio
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    Re: What next

    Seconding Egoiste, if you like some sweetness.
    Or a darker patchouli, like A*men
  18. Re: Pick One Fragrance Brought Back To Original Formulation?

    Perhaps Fougere Royale, in its original incarnation with coumarin and many other forbidden ingredients.

    cacio
  19. Replies
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    Re: Creed Royal Oud or Interlude Man?

    As others said, they're quite different. I prefer Interlude, which is spicier, bolder, and stronger.
  20. Re: Please name some vintage fragrances which are known for their oakmoss content

    Good list. I'd add Eau Sauvage, another chypre like Chanel pour monsieur edt.

    Feminines have been equally hit-if not even more so. Starting from Mitsouko, the queen of chypres.

    cacio
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    Re: Popular Cologne Ads from the Past

    Lovely ads-makes me want to get those oldies just for the fun of it.

    The 70s were the era of musks... (clean ones, that is)

    cacio
  22. Re: Is MAC Velvet Teddy the best Tobacco Vanille killer?

    Thanks for the heads up.
    As expected, never been there-but who knows, occasions happen.
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    Poll: Re: Help me buy my 1st Amouage!

    I voted for Interlude exactly because it is the strongest. But Myths will do as well. Reflection is probably the least mysterious and unique, but as others were saying it tends to be more of a crowd...
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    Re: Versatile summer/spring niche fragrances

    My favorites for warm weather are Malle Vetiver extraordinaire (very fresh and green) and CDG2 man (fresh incense, so to speak).

    I love other lines (like Etat libre d'orange or Amouage), but I...
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    Re: Versatile summer/spring niche fragrances

    My favorites for warm weather are Malle Vetiver extraordinaire (very fresh and green) and CDG2 man (fresh incense, so to speak).

    I love other lines (like Etat libre d'orange or Amouage), but I...
  26. Re: Is MAC Velvet Teddy the best Tobacco Vanille killer?

    Thanks! I don't think there is an outlet nearby (at least, reachable via public transportation)
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    Re: For Chilly Fall Days - Boozy Niche Scents?

    Lubin Idole, smooth and woody, for me.

    cacio
  28. Re: Is MAC Velvet Teddy the best Tobacco Vanille killer?

    Where can one get the MAC perfumes at 75% off?
    I'd jump for VT and my heroine at those prices.
  29. Re: Best modern Niche/Prive interpretation of 70s/80s powerhouse genre

    Sang Bleu by Le Galion is like a well behaved Kouros.

    cacio
  30. Re: Vintage geek opinions about bottle age and sweet spot, please.

    My 70s bottles are mostly acceptable, and more so the 80s ones. I don't have that much before the 70s, and what I have has imperfections. So I'd say for wearability, 80s is probably the sweet spot...
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    Re: cant believe what i saw at sephora

    In some countries, it is customary to spray 10-15 times. Different social norms....

    As for the abuse of shop testers, I might agree. Though I find it hard to sympathize with Sephora, whose owner...
  32. Re: Looking for something for fall/winter 2019/2020

    My vote, for both season, would be Portrait of a Lady. It's different from the others you have, and it's not particularly feminine. It has some rose, but the structure is solidly masculine.

    cacio
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    Re: Coromandel Parfum is here

    It is only $10,000.
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    Re: New Coromandel perfume?

    With proper budget, one can also get 50ml of Coromandel parfum for $10,000. Includes a brooch and a decorated box.

    I don't recall Chanel doing this, though Guerlain has been doing these combos...
  35. Re: Can Anyone Help Identify This Tropical Note?

    Just to toss off other possibilities, ylang ylang is greenish, floral tropical, though I don't think about green jalapeno...
  36. Re: The attar wand- to use or not to use. That is the question.

    I use the wand and don't worry.
    If one is worried, I guess the suggested use of a plastick pick (that one can clean after use) should do it.

    cacio
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    Re: Which is the best long lasting perfume ?

    Seconding Fahrenheit (and Kouros), or some in the A*men line. they last very well.
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    Re: Diptyque bazaar and perfumed objects

    Depending on the object or way it's made, wearing something perfumed could give a slightly different experience than a spray on skin. Sometimes more subdued but more long lasting, or staying more on...
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    Diptyque bazaar and perfumed objects

    Got a couple of emails from Diptyque.

    First, a popup shop in Paris 16, rue Saint-Roch, Paris 1er Monday to Saturday, 10:30am-7:30pm, apparently dedicated to objects for the home, not so much...
  40. Re: The dilemma of either buying a unique, daring scent or a crowd-pleaser is killing me. Can't deci

    If forced to choose, go with the more unique. It'll have more success than what everybody else is wearing.
  41. Replies
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    Re: I dislike Oud Wood now

    Not quite repulsed, but as I was starting to smell things, I realized that there are so many good perfumes that what initially smelled nice became bland later on.
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    Re: Tauer Lonesome Rider - Discontinued

    Good decision to keep it. I like it too. I guess Lonestar memories is the one that's going to remain in production...

    cacio
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    Re: Is Linearity Such a Bad Thing?

    Concur with others. Nothing wrong per se-what matters is that the perfume is good.

    Though I want to make sure we mean the same thing for linearity. I take linear to mean that a perfume smells the...
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    Re: She Was An Anomaly by Etat Libre d'Orange

    A lot of mainstream formulas seem to be the result of AI. ELdO usually works well for me, so let's see...
    cacio
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    Re: Hurricane Dorian - Blind buys

    I hope all is fine now. I was in Miami late last week myself, but decided to leave early.

    Great purchases. Chanel is known to control its distribution very tightly, so there's really no way of...
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    Re: Dior Homme Cologne

    Fantastic deal.
    Which Guerlain are you talking about? Nothing comes to mind.
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    Re: Need Recommendations for Three Aunts

    The budget is pretty tight.

    Perhaps you can check at your local TJ Maxx/Marshalls or the like. Recently, i've seen some Elizabeth Arden Green Tea, which is quite fresh and light and good for the...
  48. Re: More or less dated? - women’s fragrances on men or men's fragrances on women

    "Dated" connotations vary a lot across people, so I don't think that there is a rule. that said, there are a few more current perfume styles for women than for men in mainstream, so I venture saying...
  49. Re: Interest in a Mystery Swap? Contiguous 48 States

    As Bavard and others were saying, there have been blind sampling rounds and they were fun.

    The ones I participated in were synchronized and people had to discuss until the correct guess. Having...
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    Re: isovaleraldehyde and isovalerate

    I have a couple of valerian plants on the balcony (very easy to grow). The flower smells light and fresh. One year I decided to dig out the roots. Fresh, they also smell fresh and vegetal. then I put...
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    Re: What is the highest use of peach aldehyde?

    Not a perfumer so I cannot help. I wonder if any of you smelled YSL Champagne - now Yvresse. It has a big lactonic note which I think is C14. I must be sensitive to it because I find it overpowering....
  52. Re: New here - long time cologne user - looking modernize my collection - suggestions?

    Most of the perfumes you cite would be considered quite modern...

    Interesting you find TdH too strong, most people would describe it as quiet. What part of TdH do you like most? The fresh citrus...
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    Re: Help me choose a Wedding scent

    As avo was saying, Jub, and most Amouages, hold up pretty well. But one should not apply too heavily. 4 sprays on various body parts/clothes, I'd say.
  54. Re: Tell us what fragrance phases you have gone through recently

    Being summer and hot, I recently went through a fresh green and/or floral phase. Now I'm turning a bit towards chypre (new and old).

    Immortelle in the summer is quite brave.
  55. Replies
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    Re: Help me choose a Wedding scent

    I agree with Jub. It seems very good for a celebration, and it should last well.
  56. Poll: Re: Chose for me like I'm a child...Only joking - but which is the best 'special occasion' scent?

    Histoires de Parfum Petroleum has a similar structure to Oud minerale (oud-woody plus marine), but it is stronger. Still, you may want to try. The brand used to have a lighter and fresher version...
  57. Re: What do you spray on the sheets before bedtime

    I usually don't spray-too strong. But sometimes I have sprayed something light, like Chanel eau de cologne. Or the parfums de nicolai brume d'oreiller-which was created for the purpose.

    cacio
  58. Poll: Re: Chose for me like I'm a child...Only joking - but which is the best 'special occasion' scent?

    I voted for Armani bois d'encens because frankincense in general seems a bit more special than amber. Nothing wrong with amber of course, but it tends to be quite warm and comforting. Frankincense...
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    Re: Old Perfumed shaving soaps

    I don't know about shaving soaps. Soaps can last a long time, since they don't allow bacterial growth. So 20 year old stuff should still be good. I have some soaps that are older than that. I have...
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    Re: MDCI Chypre Palatin weakened or not?

    Thanks for the link. Very informative. And honest to say that they did reformulate something because of IFRA, and it wasn't good enough.
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    Re: What's the correct way to pronounce "Knize"?

    As sami was saying, it's a Czech name but the company is primarily associated with Austria. So I guess there is more than a way to say the z (which I understand originally has a sign on it), whether...
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    Re: Scent in Dial Marula Oil body wash

    Yes. Marula oil has been extremely fashionable in skincare over the past few years. Evidently to the point that production must have ramped up and the product is now entering drugstore products.
  63. Replies
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    Re: Scent in Dial Marula Oil body wash

    Welcome!

    I'll have to smell this then! Brown sugar-caramel could be an amber like benzoin or labdanum, or even immortelle (which is stronger), plus a touch of vanilla.

    cacio
  64. Re: Attar fragrances ----- viable option for skin alcohol allergy?

    Yes to problem with alcohol. But note that usually the allergy is not to alcohol, but to some ingredient in the perfume, so using attars doesn't solve the problem.
  65. Re: Which frags signal "he is a nice guy but refuses to be that to me"?

    Many Chanel feminines did that-cold elegance (less so Chanel masculines). But the idea was green-cold (galbanum, iris, what not).
    Leathers can do that too, as long as they're not too ambery.
    ...
  66. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver fragrances inventory: under-the-radar

    Thanks for the list! I like vetiver a lot, so this is very informative for me.

    Annick Goutal Cologne vetiver: clean, light, insubstantial
    Fazzolari Lampblack: not thinking vetiver here. It's...
  67. Replies
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    Re: Dark-ish/Gourmand-ish Fig Fragrances

    The (I believe) discontinued Mugler Womanity was a strange, sweet and salty fig that had no green fig leaf. Probably too unique for mainstream, so it seems to have disappeared.
  68. Re: Which (designer) brands are current trend setters among mainstream brands?

    I agree that Mugler often tries new stuff. Sometimes, the experiment becomes the new norm (eg Angel).
  69. Replies
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    Re: Mainstream houses

    I agree that those two tend to put a bit more attention than others-and agree that Hermes should be added too. The bar is admittedly very low.
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    Re: Why jammy rose is so....jammy?

    Not a chemist, but I assume so. Rose perfume varies a lot across different types of roses. Damask roses, for instance, seem to have much more of this jammy note.
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    Re: Have you ever tried Opium pour Femme?

    Current is paler than the enormous original, which had a huge clove kick over the heavy oriental tapestry. The current is still ok and very wearable, a nice warm spicy oriental, but those who...
  72. Thread: About EDP vs EDT

    by cacio
    Replies
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    Re: About EDP vs EDT

    Usually, the edt and edp of a given perfume are not the same formula. And it is not always the case that the edt projects more.

    In addition to what hednic was saying, the formula for the edt is...
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    Re: deconstructed /avant-garde FOUGERE?

    For very avantgarde, I'd say Louis by The Zoo: strange aromatics, drydown tilted towards iris and a strange powdery stuff.

    For less drastic reinterpretations, "nugeres" like Invasion Barbare or...
  74. Replies
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    Re: Pros & Cons of spraying fragrance on shirts

    As others have said, fabric keeps perfume well, so longevity is superior to skin. It usually projects less, though. And as you point out, check for staining first. Most perfumes are ok, but a few...
  75. Re: Perfume oils, body oils, body and bath oils - how, when, where?

    Re: what to try, I think Youth Dew bath oil is still sold at Estee Lauder counter, still strong, though not as strong as before, and very inexpensive. If you don't like it as a perfume, you can still...
  76. Re: which jasmine do you personally prefer, Diorella or Samsara?

    I wouldn't consider Diorella primarily a jasmine. There's some of it, but I perceive it mostly as a citrus chypre with a sharp citrus note and a dirty "rotten-fruit" one. Not superfresh, but not warm...
  77. Re: Perfume oils, body oils, body and bath oils - how, when, where?

    As diddy was saying, there is no rule, the nature of the products vary a lot.

    In the past, bath oils tended to be extremely concentrated and strong, they were designed to withstand a full tub of...
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    Re: Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    I tried this today in nyc. It’s very hot, so this disappeared I no time. Very nice beginning,greenish with a touch of floral and hay. Pretty much like the he pale green color of the bottle,

    But I...
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    Re: NEW: La Collection Celine Haute Parfumerie

    Lmvh must think that the prices are profitable. Dior, Bulgari, givenchy and lv have one. I forget, does fendi have one too?
  80. Replies
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    Re: Your Favorite Animalic Classy Fragrances?

    Certain old perfumes did the trick really well. I'm thinking about feminine musky florals like Joy, My sin, Arpege, and the like. And some masculine too, like Eau d'Hermes (which was more animalic)...
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    painted

    re: the current formulation of Rien, I have not smelled. However, Rien didn't contain forbidden ingredients, and so far I have not heard reports of reformulations of any of their perfumes....
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    I assume Kaern is referring to nihilist philosophy.

    Not sure why a perfume that's distinctly big and hefty calls itself nothing-perhaps a reference that it's supposed to replicate the smell of...
  83. Replies
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    Re: Tom Ford - Tuscan Leather - Alternatives?

    So many good leathers around-and many cheaper than the TF. Already good suggestions for close smell-alikes.

    More broadly in leather territory, among the classics, Knize Ten, a bit more complex and...
  84. Replies
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    Re: Rien incense battle

    I find them very similar, and both very dark-and very good. The incense intense has more incense, so perhaps you can go with that, but they are really close.

    I wouldn't call them churchy, they're...
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    Re: Blackrock buys Authentic Brands Group

    Indeed, quite uninspiring.
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    Re: Fragrance SMOTHERED by over spraying?

    I agree with Darjeeling-this sounds more like a case of nose fatigue. Too much of some material and the nose blocks it off.

    cacio
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    Re: Givenchy III Discussion

    I don't detect galbanum or green-ness in Chypre. Chypre is really chypre 1.0, just the basic accord, unadulterated
  88. Replies
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    Blackrock buys Authentic Brands Group

    In the news, I read that giant private equity firm Blackrock bought a stake and became the largest investor in Authentic Brands Group, which owns brands including Sports Illustrated, Juicy Couture...
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    Re: Gucci Memoire d'une Odeur

    Narcissus and hay have my full interest!
  90. Replies
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    Re: Givenchy III Discussion

    I like green chypres so I like Givenchy III a lot. As noted, what I smelled a few years ago is leaner and cleaner than the old one, but still acceptable. My impression is that green chypres survived...
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    Re: Diffuser? - Bathroom, and car

    Welcome!

    Are you looking for a device or the perfume?

    You actually don't need any device to perfume a room or a car. you can just spray a piece of paper, fabric, porous stone, or what not, and...
  92. Replies
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    Re: Niche starter bottle

    So much to choose from! Perhaps you can start from the entry-level (in terms of price) niche-which are around $95/50ml, so things like Dyptique, Montale, or my favorite Etat Libre d'Orange houses.
  93. Replies
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    Re: Lucky scent / scent bar is coming to nyc !

    Why do they all go to NYC and not to DC?
  94. Re: Recc Me A Fall/Date Scent Based On Weird Preferences

    Bulgari Eau parfumee au the noir would have been great, woody, dark, just slightly sweet, and not too strong. But I think it has been discontinued. The bottega veneta or the costume national things...
  95. Poll: Re: Do I need Rhubarb My Love (The Zoo) if I already own Rhubarb (CDG)?

    Thanks for the comparison. I like rhubarb my love and planning to buy,so good to know I don't have to look for the CDG instead.
  96. Re: Do you enjoy fragrances with bitter or gothic notes

    Nothing wrong with bitter. I haven't tried the two you mention, so probably I should now.

    cacio
  97. Replies
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    Re: Help please! Home scented candle is broken

    Welcome!

    You mean the wax is broken? Not a problem, just use as normal. If you ever get there, the wax will be melting anyway.
    (unrelated, but more importantly, make sure you follow the...
  98. Poll: Re: Le Labo Bergamote 22 or Tom Fords Grey Vetiver EDT?

    Indifferent, but I voted TF because of price.
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    Re: Chanel feminines enjoyed by us guys

    Cristalle is still a reference green chypre and still works perfectly.
  100. Replies
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    Re: Chanel feminines enjoyed by us guys

    Indeed, the stereotype for Chanel is simple, cold elegance. Guerlain is more haze and warmth.
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