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  1. Replies
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    Re: perfume formulas/recipes using glycerin

    Sage advice, Paul, but why can't people understand that the ONLY solvent that should be used is ethanol? And adding water, glycerine and all sorts of other things is a complete waste of effort?
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    Re: An amber accord

    James, that formula is heading more towards a chypre with the combination of labdanum and that amount of oakmoss. In my imagination, I would replace the oakmoss with a healthy dose of benzoin at...
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    Re: Alternative to Hermitage - AUS

    Adam, you are a true gentleman and all-round great guy! I was super excited to discover the Australian site, but disappointed to find no synths. Lots of other great stuff, however. Also, no...
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    Re: Alternative to Hermitage - AUS

    Hi Clara, as a fellow Australian, I feel your pain. Here is the order I placed with Perfumers Apprentice yesterday:

    Sorry about the formatting. This doesn't do tables well...
    ...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Thanks, Luigi. However I'm not looking for an amber note, I'm looking for an ambergris note, without going to the expense and trouble of tracking down the real thing. Hence my question about Cetalox,...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I've never experienced ambergris, however I'm planning on adding some Cetalox to my next PA order. How does Cetalox compare to the real thing and what proportions would you use as an ambergris...
  7. Re: Blind nose training: who wants to play?

    Irina, that's a fantastic idea. However, not everyone chooses to immerse themselves in Google's ecosystem. I avoid it. My reasons are my own! We'd need to come up with some cross-platform solution.
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    But then, David, we have the unenviable problem of explaining that to the peace, love and brown rice crowd who live under the delusion that everything 'natural' is not only perfectly safe, but is...
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    Re: Absolute oils for culinary purposes?

    I would never consider creating my own e-cig blends. That is very shaky ground on so many levels. Without a thorough knowledge of ALL the constituents of the individual oils and their effect on the...
  10. Thread: Le Labo

    by Trufflehunter
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    Re: Le Labo

    Just guessing, but I imagine they use pre-blended, pre-diluted bases, pre-filtered where necessary. And you get to enjoy the maturation process yourself, under your very own nose :)

    By the way, no...
  11. Thread: Ambreine

    by Trufflehunter
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    Re: Ambreine

    There does seem to be some confusion over the term. As you say, David and Paul, it also refers to a material extracted from Labdanum, which I believe Andy Tauer uses extensively. I can't imagine it...
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    Re: Ambrene 50?

    Yes, it's really a complete perfume rather than a base. Wouldn't you say more of an amber fougere than a chypre? It's all about coumarin, geranium, patchouli and lavender. There's a lot of myrrh in...
  13. Re: Good top notes for a coconut based fragrance blend?

    Lime and Bergamot spring immediately to mind. I've been trying to perfect a coconut scent for ages with not much luck, unfortunately. Can you share the basic structure of your coconut base?
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Taking this topic sideways for a moment: How do you pronounce 'Grojsman' ?
  15. Thread: Ambreine

    by Trufflehunter
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    736

    Ambreine

    I stumbled across a formula for "Ambreine 1" on the Good Scents Company's site:

    http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/demos/dm1005171.html

    I'd heard of Ambreine, but I've never explored it,...
  16. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Is the quantity of clove oil a misprint? 30 seems an awful lot!
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    Re: A Freesia Accord to share

    That I can understand, Paul. But there seems to be an awful lot of Ylang and Peppermint! Champa and Verbena I don't have, but maybe I could substitute Linalool and give it a go. No Styrax either......
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    Re: A Freesia Accord to share

    Thank you so much for that fascinating read, Paul. As I thought, it's all about Linalool. Interesting that the Beta Ionone is only found in the unpicked flowers. I have limonene, but will need to...
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    Mumsy, where did you get the Kaffir Lime (EO I assume)? I need it, I need it real bad!
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    Re: What smells say Thailand to you?

    I want her too as well :)
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    A Freesia Accord to share

    I came up with this quite by accident while exploring the interplay between Linalool and the ionones. When I first smelt it, I was overcome with a memory of a delicious scent that I couldn't at first...
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    Re: Baking soda enfleurage

    Patience, David, patience. :)
    Sometimes it's better to let the kids climb the tree and work out the dangers the hard way. Nothing like a broken leg to drive home some of life's lessons :)
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I did manage to throw together a batch last night:

    Hedione 10
    Iso-E Super 10
    Galaxolide (50%) 20
    Meth. Ionine Gamma 10
    Ambroxan (10%) 2

    ...and I was blown away. Yes, I can see all the...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    I've always been wary of the ionones, finding that they can often turn things into 'cooking oil', but clearly I've been blending them with the wrong things. About to whip up a batch...
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    Re: Grojsman Accord

    Thanks pk. I wouldn't have thought of using that much Methyl Ionone! I'll whip up a batch after work tonight.
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    Grojsman Accord

    Just read the article on the front page featuring our friend Chris Bartlett (thank you again, sir, for your fantastic contributions) where he mentioned the Grojsman Accord. Chris, or anyone, can you...
  27. Great article and thanks as always to Chris. I...

    Great article and thanks as always to Chris. I would love to know the proportions for the Grojsman accord.
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    Re: Can't find Cashmeran oils...HELP!

    Zakmuh, Cashmeran is Cashmeran. It is not known by any other name, commonly. Linalool is NOT basil. Basil contains Linalool, but many other interesting things besides, to make it smell like, well,...
  29. Re: Australia... What smells like Australia? Need some help!

    What everyone else said, plus two florals spring immediately to mind: Boronia (specifically Boronia Megastigma) and Frangipani. The latter is not a native as far as I know but it's very prolific in...
  30. Re: Concentrating Fragrance/Cologne/Perfume to Improve Longevity/Projection/Sillage- A Fix for the B

    So, you've boiled off a large proportion of the alcohol, all of the topnotes and a large proportion of the midnotes, leaving just the basenotes. The original cheapies you boiled down probably...
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    Re: Daphne Scent...

    White Lotus has an all-natural formula for Daphne. I haven't tried it, but it makes interesting reading:

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/newsletters/daphne_perfume

    Daphne odora is probably...
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    Re: adding water, confusion...

    This business of 'adding water' seems so confusing to beginners. Where on earth did the idea come from?
    The answer is beautifully simple:
    NEVER ADD WATER.
    NEVER ADD GLYCERINE/GLYCEROL
  33. Re: Something is missing... Any suggestions?

    There are no basenotes...
    Musks. Lots of musks.
  34. Replies
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    Re: Advantages of Aldehydes

    Hi Macaul, I think you are confusing "Aldehydes" with "Synthetics". Aldehydes are just a very small, very specific subset of many thousands of synthetic aromachemicals. In fact, there are only about...
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    Re: Must Have Equipment for your "Lab"

    Scales
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    Re: Help needed

    I was thinking the same thing, gido. Although, I mixed up a batch of the basic chypre last night and it's really quite beautiful and is still going strong this morning from the little drop I applied...
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    Re: Missing chypre thread

    Indeed it is! Thanks David. A perfect example of the importance of descriptive subject lines.
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    Missing chypre thread

    A couple of days ago there was a thread on chypre accords where pkiler very kindly posted some interesting formulas. Now it's disappeared unless I've gone blind or mad or both!
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    Re: Brooklyn Playmate

    James, it's a small world. A very small world in this case. I'm holidaying in New York/Brooklyn from Australia at this very moment and I'm staying in an apartment at 40 Wyckoff St. In fact I just...
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    Re: Anosmic to hydroxycitronellal?

    I've had the same problem with Lilial, Lyral and Hedione. I now 'get' Lilial, not only do I 'get' it but it lasts for days on a smelling strip. Furthermore, I realise just how much of it must be...
  41. Re: D-i-y or @Home Synthesis of fragrances?

    ...and it would smell just like... isopropyl alcohol
  42. Re: Starting "open source" perfume formula's; donate yours!

    OK here are two of my very early attempts. Both contain 'Fragrant Oils', which I no longer use, except in these two blends because I can't come up with suitable replacements from my synthetics that...
  43. Re: Jean Carles on base notes and modifiers in cologne...

    Jean Carles is using the term 'cologne' in its specific sense, meaning a fragrance that is comprised largely of top notes. As opposed to the term 'perfume' which refers to a fragrance constructed...
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    Re: Geosmin in the UK?

    Ah the power and wonder of words! I've never heard of geosmin. So, I've just spent a pleasant thirty minutes on a Sunday morning on google, bing and Wikipedia. Fascinating stuff. Just as interesting,...
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    Re: Frankincense help please

    I think what you need is a CO2 extract. Hermitage provide a beautiful Frankincense Carteri CO2 which is so much richer and tenacious than the EO. It's just like smelling the tears.
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Great question! I have exactly the same problem and I look forward to our resident experts chiming in. There are many synthetics (benzyl acetate springs to mind) but naturals seem far more limited.
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    Re: Mixing.... help!

    Your newly diluted individual oils can be used straight away. They don't benefit from any maturation time. Once blended, however, it's a very different story: you will notice they improve greatly...
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    Re: Sandalwood Perfume

    Mumsy's statement about certain notes cancelling themselves out is certainly true. When I'm playing around with chypre accords I get wonderful results with oak moss + labdanum, oak moss + vetiver and...
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    Re: volatile coffee EO

    Hermitage Oils has coffee absolute:
    http://www.hermitageoils.com/absolute-oils/coffee-absolute
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    Re: Agarwood smoke

    I immediately thought of Opoponax absolute...

    Mumsy, I'd love to sit down with you and discuss your stormy youth! LOL
  51. Re: Ratios, Measurements, Total CONFUSION!

    A simple solution to your problem when you're just starting out and don't want to go to the trouble and expense of getting scales is to pre-dilute the more viscous substances in ethanol (or carrier...
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    Re: Oakmoss restrictions as per 2013?

    When I was 'practising my accords' ages ago, obviously I blended up some chypres. Only a few days ago I stumbled across them and took a sniff of the classic labdanum/oak moss accord, which I thought...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    David, I completely agree with you. But, as someone who has only recently moved on to aromachemicals, out of frustration over trying to work (largely unsuccessfully) with all naturals, despite having...
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    Re: Heliotrope / Heliotropin

    Perfumer's Apprentice stocks a "Heliotropin Replacer" at 50%. Does anyone know anything about this? They provide no further information as to exactly what this substance is. Is it a single...
  55. Re: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer [ships worldwide]

    Just received my first order of synthetics yesterday. It arrived in Australia carefully packaged and in record time, including a couple of bonuses! The international postage is very reasonable...
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    Re: Leather fragrance oil

    I notice a lot of the formulas from the PA site include a relatively small amount of IPM or DPG. Why?
  57. Re: How does this combination of notes sound?

    Sounds very nice. Go easy on the vetiver! What kind of Cedarwood are you planning on using? Virginian, Atlas or Himalayan? Personally, for that combo, I'd probably avoid the Virginian unless you...
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Technically a "natural isolate"?
  59. Replies
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Thanks for clarifying that, David. I'm just 'branching out' into synthetics and wanted to get some limonene, but could only find d-limonene. Now I know it's one and the same.
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    Re: Shelf lives

    David, my chemistry is much better than 'average', though still not very good! However, I understand the principles of isomers. My question is really about the difference in smell between 'limonene'...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Shelf lives

    Good question, Domek. I look forward to our learned friends' responses. While I'm at it, is there a difference between Limonene and D-Limonene?
  62. Replies
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    Re: Legal issues

    I hope it's not illegal because I, for one, would love to see that! Surely there'd be no problem if no names were mentioned.
  63. Re: New UK company, Olfactik, set up to supply the independent perfumer [ships worldwide]

    I visited your site for the first time last night Russell and it is beautifully designed. Thank you. I'll be placing my first order very soon!
  64. Replies
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    Re: Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Looks like I need to get some Hedione! Thanks everyone for your most informative responses. And thanks Chris for clarifying the significance of the ingredients list on perfume boxes. One thing...
  65. Replies
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    Re: Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Thanks Gido and Chris for your help and suggestions. I'll certainly take them on board for the next order. My choices of largely base notes were deliberate. They're the notes I'm having the most...
  66. Replies
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    Aromachemicals ordered - questions!

    Sorry for yet another thread about ordering aromachemicals!

    I just ordered the following list of goodies from The Perfumer's Apprentice after ploughing through many posts here (thanks Chris B for...
  67. Re: Artemisia Absinthum? Where to buy it?

    Hermitage Oils. Ships world-wide
  68. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    You should dissolve it in alcohol to reduce it to a thin liquid. Same for all the thick and sticky materials, such as your oak moss abs. 50% should do it, sometimes you'll need to go 25%. Then you...
  69. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    Chris, you are so good. What would this place be without your balanced reasoning and clarity of thought and expression? Thank you for all the time and effort you put into your responses.
  70. Re: Suggestions of fragrances to add for a woman

    Hi Samantha, tempting though it seems, anything that 'saves time' in this wonderful hobby is of limited use. Nothing beats using the time effectively by studying the individual notes and practicing...
  71. Replies
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    Re: Share your perfume recipes

    Thanks for starting this, Man_From_Shalimar (how's things in Shalimar?). I've always meant to do this myself and I've wondered why there wasn't already a sticky or a sub-forum for it.

    Anyway,...
  72. Replies
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    Re: How can i make coconut natural perfume?

    Massoia bark is available from Hermitage Oils. They ship worldwide. Go easy on it, it will overpower anything you blend it with.
  73. Replies
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    Re: How can i make coconut natural perfume?

    I also have a fascination for coconut and have always believed that there was no such thing as coconut essential oil or absolute. I've relied on synthetics. However it appears that White Lotus...
  74. Re: Labdanum , Cistus ....are they the same???

    I think Labdanum is the resin, whereas Cistus is the EO from the leaves. I've also read of a 'clear' Labdanum. Mystery, that one!
  75. Replies
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    Re: St George’s Day Fragrance

    Hi Chris and great project. I recently received some lavender absolute from our wonderful friend Adam at Hermitage Oils. Never having experienced the abs before, this was an epiphany. The most...
  76. Re: First time, first post-- Ambroxan/alcohol mix?

    Hi tlmeyerink. The smell of the alcohol will remain as long as the alcohol remains. Removing the lid will only remove the smell of the alcohol if you leave the lid off long enough for all the alcohol...
  77. Re: The list of oils I want to get and concoct something with

    Good luck with that. Some great stuff in there. Just a couple of observations: only one citrus (bergamot)? Make sure you get the opoponax absolute and dissolve it at 50% in ethanol, not the essential...
  78. Replies
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    Re: Tobacco dark & light

    Hi Acer. I'll kick off with what little I know. Only yesterday I received my latest order from Hermitage Oils which included Tobacco Absolute. It's very dark with a rich, tenacious aroma. I made a...
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    Re: Carrier for essential oils

    The three most common carriers are ethanol, jojoba oil and dipropylene glycol.
    You say you want to avoid alcohol because you want to be able to 'smell the oils as they age'. Alcohol will not...
  80. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Absolutes in oil?

    Hi Sekhmet. Alcohol only for alcohol-based fragrances. Oil only for oil-based fragrances. You can't mix up the two. If you're concerned about the shelf life of oil-based fragrances, then use...
  81. Re: Any love out there for XS Extreme Pour Homme?

    Totally different, with an overload of synthetic strawberry, of all things! You smell like a teenage schoolgirl who's just shoplifted a bottle of strawberry fragrant oil from the local voodoo shop.
  82. Re: What carrier oil would be best to dilute Ajmal Musk Gazelle Grade AA Premium Perfume Oil?

    What is everyone's thoughts on ambrette seed? I've never experienced it but I'm curiously drawn to it. I've just been emailing Adam (of Hermitage Oils) and he's had mixed personal reactions to the...
  83. Re: Dilutions for blending - how much total solution?

    I keep two sets of all of my materials:

    1. The original concentrates
    2. Another set of 10ml bottles containing 0.5ml of the concentrate with 4.5ml of alcohol, making a 10% testing dilution, which...
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    Re: Frankincense in Aventus?

    I don't know about Frankincense in Aventus, but am I the only one who detects a prominent virginian cedar note? Thinly disguised pencil shavings, which I love by the way! I'm guessing the smokiness...
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    The smell of iron

    I just found this great article and thought I should share it:

    http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/anie.200602100/full

    Be aware that it's fairly heavy going for non-chemists. I've always...
  86. Replies
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    Re: Creed. Please explain...

    There are no 'bad' batches. That's absurd. The seasonal variabilities of the natural ingredients would lead to subtle differences from batch to batch. The only way to guarantee absolute consistency...
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    Re: Benzoin macerated oil

    Thanks Chris. That does help. I didn't realise that Benzoin Siam was different to the 'regular' benzoin.
  88. Replies
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    Benzoin macerated oil

    I'm trying to produce an amber accord from Mandy Aftel's 'recipe' of Benzoin 20 parts, Labdanum 5 parts, Vanilla 1 part. My dilemma is: I have some Benzoin Siam macerated oil and need to know just...
  89. Re: I've got a winter leaking problem with dropper caps....

    Those dropper caps are such a pest. The oil pools in the little 'gutter' around the top and eventually escapes through the lid. I've removed all of mine. Just be careful that you tighten the lid to...
  90. Re: Scents that you want to make into perfumes

    Yes! I've always loved the smell of Pears soap too. Every now and then I crave it. But the last lot I bought has been grossly reformulated and its smell is just a shadow of its former self. I'm going...
  91. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    Oh dear... That'd be me! I'll have to give the Sydney Essential Oil Company a try.
  92. Thread: Amber

    by Trufflehunter
    Replies
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    Re: Amber

    Mandy Aftel's formulation is:

    1 vanilla
    5 labdanum
    20 benzoin

    Although volumetrically, benzoin is the largest portion, benzoin tincture or EO is so mild, it really is almost a dilutant to the...
  93. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    aaah Chris, I was hoping you'd chime in with this one. Informative, well-crafted response as always. It's definitely adulterated. I set about doing some more dilutions with new EO's purchased from...
  94. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    Well I just came back here after emailing them myself! So tomorrow they'll have a "Frankincense Dilemma" on their hands! I didn't even realise they had a 'certified organic' range so I just checked...
  95. Replies
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    Re: Diluting Frankincense

    BCarter, your post disturbed me because I just bought a bottle of Frankincense Essential Oil from New Directions. I just tried dissolving it in 95% ethanol and had the same problem as you. I think...
  96. Replies
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    Re: Infusing alcohol with...tea?

    Hi Mumsy... cocoa sounds great! did you use normal powdered cocoa, or beans?
  97. Replies
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    Re: Infusing alcohol with...tea?

    Funny you should mention this... I'm in the middle of an identical 'project' but using coffee. There's a lot of waste from my electric grinder and I've been throwing it out. But I thought I'd collect...
  98. Replies
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    Reed diffuser carrier

    What carrier would be used in a reed diffuser? Surely not ethanol: the potential for fire would be huge. Is it dipropylene glycol or some other esoteric mix?

    I've tried making one once. I bought a...
  99. Re: Impressions of Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche

    Completely agree with your comparison with LADM and surprised that no one else has mentioned it. I thought it was just me. I don't get the leather, but plenty of dry amber and spice.
  100. Replies
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    Re: In Search of a Sticky Cinnamon Scent

    Creed's Original Santal
    Dunhill Desire (Red)
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