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  1. Replies
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    Re: Guerlain Lui is underrated

    Agree. I grabbed a bottle when it came out and really enjoyed the crisp carnation - almost a 'dusty peppery nasturtium flower' vibe (if you've ever had nasturtium in a salad you'll know what I mean)....
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    Re: What Is Your Top 5 As Of Right Now?

    Summer temps are kicking in here, along with serious humidity, so . . .

    Granville (Dior)
    Vintage Monsieur Balmain
    Myrrhe et Delirés (Guerlain)
    Vetiver Pour Elle (Guerlain)
    Aveda Body Spray...
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    Re: Lutens Vetiver orientl

    The original was very interesting, vetiver with a uniquely deep Lutensian twist.

    I have tried the recent version a couple of times and find it a bit characterless by comparison but would...
  4. Re: Fragrances with a dominant 'dried fruits' note

    Big fan of Arabie and some of the other Lutens mentioned, esp. Feminite du Bois.

    Slumberhouse SOVA leans in this direction - might be worth checking out.

    Also at a (BIG) stretch, Hermessences...
  5. Re: A Short Guide to Coniferous Fragrances:

    Nice list!

    I'd add Granville / Dior and Fou d'Absinthe / L'Artisan Parfumeurs.
  6. Re: top 5 most BEAUTIFUL perfumes you have smelled

    These.

    Also the original Homage Attar from Amouage and the original Sacrebleu from Nicolai . . .
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    Re: best bergamot scent

    TDC Bergamote is good, also Eau de Guerlain BUT bergamote is a 'top note' so neither lasts long. Atelier do citrus styled stuff with a bit more heft - worth checking out their line.
  8. Re: Best use of Lemon Verbena in a men's frag?

    Well, I love this leaf but I am not sure if it is used in these personal faves . . . sorta 'feels' like it to me.

    Eau de Guerlain and (the now discontinued) Philtre d'Amour both have a wonderful,...
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    Re: Death/Scent

    Fascinating article! I guess the more 'sticky' resins etc. are obvious enough . . .honey, myrrhe, frankincense et. al.

    I'll go with them but please just pour all my remaining L'Heure Bleue vintage...
  10. Re: Musc Ravageur - No Musk in MR Says Perfumer Maurice Roucel

    Hi. Maurice Roucel was out here in HK just a few months ago to launch 2 perfumes he created for a friend of mine. (I bought the Osmanthus Tea one). Symrise had a nice poster in the gallery space...
  11. Re: The 10 Best Fragrances You've Ever Smelled

    Difficult :)

    L'Heure Bleue
    Mitsouko
    Shalimar
    Apres l'Ondee
    Sous le Vent
    Patou Pour Homme
    Malle Une Fleur de Cassie
    MDCI Chypre Palatin
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    Re: who has Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental?

    I tried the original a few times about 10 years ago and was almost tempted to buy it but didn't, and then it disappeared for awhile.

    I tried the new re-issue a couple of times just recently when...
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    Re: Green fragrance for hot weather

    Granville (Dior) is my personal fave (well, along with Sous le Vent, which is hard to find)

    The newish Chanel Eau Paris-Deauville is also nice, similar to Guerlain AA Herba Fresca (both have a...
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    Re: In praise of Patou pour Homme

    I have a bottle at home, 60ml I think, and also a smaller one, maybe 15ml at the office. Just did a generous splash after reading this post to remind myself how good it is. IMO it just has a blend...
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    Re: Has Serge Lutens Lost The Plot

    To a large extent I think, yes. It's understandable that some are re-formulated due to EU regs / IFRA etc. - and I guess most brands 're-package' from time to time. That said, I picked up 50ml...
  16. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    I recommend anyone who can to try the earlier AdP Profumo (red box). It has a lot of 'heft' and IMO is a 'plummy' Mitsouko. Beautiful stuff.
  17. Re: Any perfumes smell like Derby by Guerlain (2012)?

    Not really - Hermes Bel Ami might be worth a a look? More 'leather' (kinda) but not a million miles away from Derby.

    And if you can find some original Patou Pour Homme that might also put a smile...
  18. Re: How many designer brands have their own in-house perfumers?

    Prada - not sure if she is exclusive to Prada but Daniela Andrier does a lot terrific work for the brand.
  19. Re: Are we certain that this hobby is safe?

    Fair question and more than answered above, I think. If you're really concerned just spray on cloth / scarf / pocket square whatevs?

    On the EU / IFRA thing. I suspect it will never end - there...
  20. Re: Guerlain experts - does this label look authentic to you?

    Yup - the original 'melancholic' heliotrope et al version has gone, replaced by more of an iris /violet thing. Still nice but not really Al'O, sadly. This happened just a few years ago.
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    Re: Best Bergamote scent ??

    I'm with hednic on this, The Different Company Bergamote is a nice one!

    Le Labo is also good but I prefer the shampoo and shower gel of that one to the actual EdT.
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    Re: Chanel Jersey Parfum

    I didn't know there was a Parfum version - will check it out! Thanks :)

    I like it but not enough to buy (yet) given I have Caron Pour Homme, MdM, Jicky and Kiki - all of which scratch my lavender...
  23. Re: Maurice Roucel: Smoker, Athlete, Genius, Perfumer

    Mr. pluran - quel horreur - she stole the CD's? I'll dig in and find your address (or shoot me a message) and fix that problem.

    Mikeperez - lol - HKD 640 = USD 80 :) Be still your beating heart,...
  24. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Cool :) I like it but it does seem to 'miss' a little for the reasons you mention compared to 'vintish' Roudnitska. Nice it saw the light of day even if slightly 'tweaked' for IFRA regs.
  25. Re: Soft greenish incense perfume without any smoke?

    Try Yerbamate from Lorenzo Villoresi . . . worth a shot.
  26. Re: Please recommend me some spicy frags for hot seasons

    Costume National Homme
    Guerlain - Myrrhe et Délires
    Amouage - Opus II
    Lubin - Idole
  27. Re: Maurice Roucel: Smoker, Athlete, Genius, Perfumer

    He's a cool guy. Met him a coupla months ago - he was here with Symrise people launching 2 perfumes he created for a friend of mine. Nice chat - totally straight up, wish we had more time to talk. I...
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    Re: Best Rotting Flowers

    Yup - this was gonna be my pick when I saw the Thread title!

    In a good way, mind you - sort of 'musty' and 'provocative' in a closed salon environment kinda way . . . makes me think of 1930's...
  29. Re: What is the happiest fragrance you know?

    Amouage Homage Attar (the orginal)

    HdP 1969 :)
  30. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Any thoughts about the 're-constituted' Parfum de Therese, the Roudnitska Jnr. gave to Malle for his line?
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    Re: Costume National Homme

    I grabbed a bottle when it came out - good stuff! The spiced clove / cinnamon whatever angle is refreshing and, initially, a bit challenging - but that's cool, it's not a wimp! Half a bottle left,...
  32. Re: Vintage Fruity Chypres-Your Favorites, Your Thoughts

    Nice topic!

    I don't know a lot of fruity chypres but a couple of suggestions.

    It's not a 'grande old dame' but the elusive Acqua di Parma Profumo in it's original formulation is a magnificent...
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    Re: Sweet with Patchouli Base

    Coromandel, for sure and Borneo 1834, for a 'darker' (less sweet) choc top.

    If you want to for an even deeper, richer Cacao and Patch try L'Heure Défendue VII from Cartier - absolutely magnificent...
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    Re: Hermès Un Jardin sur la Lagune

    Cool - let's see what she does! I tried to like this series but the backstory was generally way more interesting than the actual scent.
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    Re: Epice Marine

    Agree with the lineage / provenance 100% ! Very perceptive. I bought the 15ml and was pleasantly surprised despite my loathing of cumin! It's not shy but the mix makes sense - inspired partly by...
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    Re: Chanel Deauville Dry down

    I can't comment on anything with a similar bottom-line but interesting to see this one mentioned here!

    I am a big fan of Dior Granville (piney garrigue) and when I saw this I figured I'd grab a...
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    Re: Let's post some vintage fragrance pics

    97011

    I was fortunate enough to buy 30 ml. of this L'HB from our old friend Sorcery of Scent a couple of years ago. It's a stunning deep, solid version from the 1940's, I believe.

    97012
    ...
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    Re: Your Life In 5 Fragrances

    70's: Mysore Santalum Album Essential Oil (from India - the real deal)

    The local head shop owner used to import stuff - I couldn't stand the overiding Patchouli Oil craze and was fortunate to...
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    Re: LT is right thread

    97010

    LT is always 100% right - he da man :thumbsup::coolold: Tania is too!
  40. Re: Maison Francis Kurkdjian's latest Duo Releases!

    Tried 'em both on paper yesterday.

    One was quite a nice slight;y powdery thing, happy to revisit.

    The other struck me as a bit 'sharp' and soul-less . . .

    Can't remember which was which,...
  41. Re: With all of the reformulations...what classic fragrances are still worth picking up?

    Not sure if these are 'classics' but both were discontinued a good few years back and have been re-released.

    Yohji Homme (the tall cylindical bottle) is excellent - if you can find it! Tokyo...
  42. Re: great fragrances with horrible topnote that you just have to wait through to get to the good par

    I've been revisiting Malle's Music for a Wile this weekend and still reach the same conclusion - the first hour or so is a ghastly, sticky mess (the "pineapple?") but the next few hours are great -...
  43. Re: Has another person's review changed your opinion on a scent you enjoyed/disliked?

    Diamondflame's championing of Serge Noir got me to revisit it and see it from a different perspective altogether. I hated it when it was released - thought it was a bad joke. A year or two later I...
  44. Re: If you could rebuild your collection and set a 20 bottle limit, what would you buy?

    Sous le Vent
    L'Heure Fougueuse
    Mitsouko
    Granville
    Caron Pour Un Homme
    Miyako
    Feminite du Bois
    L'Heure Bleue
    Chypre Palatin (original)
    L'Eau d'Hiver
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    Re: Edmond Roudnitska's Unknown Lubin Fragrance Re-Created

    Interesting!
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    Re: Hermes Terre de Hermes

    The original EdT was great - a pale shadow of what it once was now, unfortunately. I also like the Parfum - bought it when it came out, dunno if it has been diluted since???
  47. Re: The Big Issue - Wearing The Other Gender ?

    Non issue, frankly.

    Honestly, there are a host of chypres / leathers / orientals marketed as 'femme' from the last few decades that are as ballsy as Derby and other fragrances marketed as 'homme'...
  48. Re: Have Penhaligons gone downhill in recent years?

    Waaaaaaay back English Fern and a couple of others were magnificent - in a classical 'English' kinda way.

    Over the last decade+ EU / IFRA and a more 'corporate' ownership approach has resulted in...
  49. Re: Suggest your 10 MUST HAVE NICHE fragrances

    Interesting to look back a few years ago - alot of the picks are totally relevant today. FWIW - a starter pack for someone who I don't know but has an open mind and a sense of humour :) I can only...
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    Re: Best of the Mall colognes

    Gucci Guilty Absolute (the hew 'petrol' one) is cool.

    The Prada stuff is consistently oriiginal and good IMO.
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    Re: What Is Your Top 5 As Of Right Now

    These last few weeks and moving into Spring:

    Yohji Homme
    Feminité du Bois
    L'Eau d'Hiver
    Granville
    Une Fleur de Cassie
  52. Replies
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    Poll: Re: Poll: Best Chypre of these

    Mitsouko for me - pref. vintage extrait.

    I would add AdP Profumo (original version) and vintage Miss Balmain as terrific chypres.

    I like 31 Rue de Cambon BUT it's a 'faux chypre', really . . ....
  53. Re: Vote -Your No1 Guerlain Fragrance, (if you were only allowed one choice) ?

    Sous le Vent, and when that runs out I'll switch to Mitsouko :)

    96747
  54. Re: Most Overrated/ Underperforming Houses ?

    Creed
    Bond 9
    Tom Ford
    Xerjoff
  55. Re: What are your Top 5 Women’s marketed fragrances suitable for Formal wear?

    Agree 100% with this list! I'll add another 5 for fun but only pre-2000 vintage. These are all chypres at heart - love that oakmoss vibe :)

    Mitsouko
    Sous le Vent
    Miss Balmain
    AdP Profumo
    Eau...
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    Re: Vero Profumo: They continue on

    Dear Campomarzio friends,

    I am a big fan of Ms. Kern, I was one of the people to receive pre-release samples of MITO from her to ‘review’. Of course I bought a bottle of the EdP as soon as it was...
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    Re: Vero Profumo: They continue on

    Done. :)
  58. Replies
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    Re: Vero Profumo: They continue on

    I hope they stick with her original formulations . . . this is not the time to 'tweak for profit'. She was a 'maestro' - her work deserves the utmost respect and whoever has the rights to the works...
  59. Re: what's the one note you can't stand much of?

    Cumin.
    Tomato Leaf
    Calone
    Immortelle
  60. Re: Who are your favorite perfumers, and why?

    Absolutely!
  61. Re: Who are your favorite perfumers, and why?

    Jacques Guerlain, 'the master'. His work defined so much of modern perfumery. Of course Coty and Beaux were influential but if you look at Mitsouko, Shalimar, L'Heure Bleue, Apres l'Ondee, Sous le...
  62. Re: Has L'eau D'hiver by Frederic Malle been reformulated?

    I believe it has.

    The original, which I still have, has more magic - he 'warm water' idea, the almost creamy (heliotrope?) undercurrent etc.

    The more recent ones I've picked up (100ml and also...
  63. Re: vintage Mitsouko parfum extrait...mind-blowing

    Yup, cathedral makes sense :)
  64. Re: Favourite signature accords from a perfume house

    Guerlainade, for sure.

    The underlying 'powdered iris' leaning 'Prada-ade' that Daniela Andrier uses in a lot of the Pradas is terrific for me - very distinctive.

    The 'Bois' and sometimes 'Bois...
  65. Re: What fragrance do you have the most back-up bottles of?

    Tiffany for Men
    Yohji Homme
    Sous le Vent
    Philtre d'Amour
    L'Eau d'Hiver
  66. Replies
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    Re: Vetiver Extraordinaire alternative?

    Grab the classic Guerlain.

    The fairly recent Vetiver EdP from Diptyque is worth checking out - way superior to the EdT from a few years ago.
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    Re: fragrance with heavy cardamom?

    Clive Christian X for Men might be worth checking out . . .
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    Re: Vinage Mitsouko parum...for men?

    Absolutely - it's a major piece of work and fine for a guy in this day and age :)
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    Re: RIP Vero Kern

    Sad news, indeed. A wonderful, talented lady who did things her way. Will be wearing Onda, Kiki and Mito these next few days.
  70. Thread: Rip git

    by mr. reasonable
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    Re: Rip git

    Well, I used to wear it in the late 90's and loved it. I do think it has thinned out' a bit since - I bought a bottle for my son a coupla years ago and it had lost some of the magic, but still a...
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    Re: Looking for a big red natural rose

    Agree with Malle's Une Rose but not so much POAL (unless you want a Rozenpatch) - the patchouli kills it for me.

    Amouage Lyric Woman might be worth a look - deep stuff :) (altho I hear it may have...
  72. Re: Caron's Le 3eme Homme (The Third Man) is one of the best things i've smelled in a long time

    Pour Un Homme is a classic, but I also like Third Man a lot!

    I suspect the name might have something to do the movie - not sure about dates no time to check right now, but 'probable cause' :)
  73. Re: Made In China...am I wrong to be sceptical ?

    Agree. For years many leading fashion brands (European & American, not to mention Apple rely on China for their assembly / manufacturing etc. Just judge by the end product - if it's good and you like...
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    Re: Please recommend me some spicy frags

    Costume National Homme
    Amouage Opus II & VI (I think - the spiced amber one)
    Lubin Idole
    Diptyque Eau Lente
  75. Re: Desert Island Fragrances-- Max Four Choices

    Sous le Vent
    Crabtree & Evelyn Extrait of Mysore Sandalwood EdT
    Granville
    Cuir d'Oranger

    I'm assuming the weather is warmish :)
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    Re: Favorite Tobacco Colognes 2018

    Czech & Speake Cuba and Diptyque Volutes EdT both worth a sniff.
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    Re: Floor wax accord

    I get a bit of that from CdG Black (along with the 'smokey' quality).
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    Re: About rose perfumes..

    I still rate the original Amouage Homage Attar as 'the rose' but pretty well impossible to find now, I think.

    Lyric Woman is also a personal fave

    Not a fan of the 'rosenpatch' combo - Portrait...
  79. Re: MAAI BOGUE PROFUMO very good! (but NOT $245.00 good IMHO).

    I like it a lot - t's a 'serious' piece of work in a more classical style, IMO.

    I don't remember paying that much, though? I grabbed a bottle when it was released . . .
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    Re: Pine notes are due for a comeback

    I grew up next to a pine forest in Wellington, N.Z. - used to play in there as a kid and it 'shifted' depending on the season, whether the trees were 'bleeding' sap etc.

    Personal faves:

    Pino...
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    Re: Shalimar........ for men

    I'd say EDP, as well. Wears closer, a bit denser.

    If you come across any of the Vanille/ Mexique / Madagascar Trio from a few years back also nice.
  82. Re: Searching for a replacement for Chanel PM EDT hit me with the best ones!

    Eau de Guerlain might be worth a shot. Not as chyprish as it once was but still quite nice.

    Azemour les Oranges could also be worth a look.
  83. Re: Your top ten wishlist of discontinued fragrances

    Hi there! I actually wrote a lengthy Private Message and thought I had sent it but then checked and it seems to have vanished ???

    I would recommend checking out these if you haven't already.
    ...
  84. Re: What is the best Annick Goutal for men?

    My faves are Encens Flamboyante & Madragore.
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    Re: The Quest for THE Sandalwood Fragrance

    90871

    This is an old pic - I would add IUNX L'Arbre and I'm keen to try the new Mona di Orio release & Slumberhouse Sixes & Sevens.

    The Amouage attar is pretty much pure santalum album oil and...
  86. Re: Geranium Fragrances - Your Favourites ?

    Geranium Pour Monsieur.

    Aesop do some good geranium bath and body products.
  87. Re: Time travel: go back to any era and stock up...

    Early 20th Century for original L'Heure Bleue, Mitsouko, Apres l'Ondee, Sous le Vent etc. - basically all the available Jacques Guerlains.

    Earl 1980's for Crabtree & Evelyn Mysore Santal EdT.
    ...
  88. Re: What's your favorite L'artisan parfumeur fragrance

    Own and enjoy:

    Seville a l'Aube (orange flower with a lavender 'bite, touch of wax and animalic)
    Fou d'Absinthe (cool piney, herbal)
    Timbuktu (crisp, dry woods)
    Dzing (crazy 'circus' oriental)...
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    Re: Your most worn October 2018

    All over the place but Granville, Cuir d'Oranger and Cologne du Parfumeur are 'regulars'. Now it's getting cooler I imagine L'Eau d'Hiver and Yohji Homme will re-enter the fray.
  90. Replies
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    Poll: Re: The Battle of the Amouages!

    Magnificent stuff! :)
  91. Replies
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    Re: Your favourite womens scents?

    Pretty much all of the classic Jacques Guerlains and several of the Chanels - Cuir de Russie, Coromandel, Bois des Iles etc.

    Some others:

    Lyric Woman (dense, boozy rose)
    Ubar (hard to describe...
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    Re: Recent decent oakmoss fragrances?

    Thanks for all the info on Tiffany for Men! I wasn't aware of the (relatively) recent reformulation but I do believe Tiffany dropped TfM, the Sport version (possibly the only fragrance with 'Sport'...
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    Re: Caron pour Homme

    It's a classic - love it!

    Also worth a sniff is Kiki by Vero Kern. I like the EdP a lot but the Extrait also great.
  94. Re: Which fragrance smells like an Old Fashioned?

    Cool thoughts!

    There's also the more recent Ellena in the Hermessences line, Epice Marine, which was created with a friend of his who was keen on whisky. It's a bit heavy on the cumin for my...
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    Re: Recent decent oakmoss fragrances?

    I need to get my hands on Dryad!

    I think they may have discontinued it a year or so ago BUT if you have access to a Tiffany boutique check out Tiffany for Men. It's a sophisticated masculine...
  96. Replies
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    Poll: Re: The Battle of the Amouages!

    Yup :)

    From the list it would probably be Memoir Man for me. I own a few, Opus II and VI rate highly, Lyric Woman, Ubar . . . and others!
  97. Re: What are some cinnamon / tobacco / musk fragrances?

    Maybe a bit left of field but:

    Diptyque Volutes EdT and Costume National Homme might be worth a look? No harm trying :)
  98. Re: I love a nice sandalwood note. Is there any reason I shouldn't buy Tam Dao EDP?

    I like the EdP a lot - nearly finished my bottle. Really don't like the EdT, though, screechy woods, nothing to do with sandalwood.

    IUNX L'Arbre is a terrific Mysore sandalwood if you get the...
  99. Re: What are in your opinion the best designer fragrances made in the last 10 years?

    Auphorie Miyake
    Diptyque Kimonanthe
    Dior Granville
    Guerlain Songe d'un Bois d'Ete & Encens Mythique, also Cologne du Parfumeur
    Pekji Ruh & Eau Mer
    Amouage Opus VI & Fate Woman
    IUNX L'Arbre...
  100. Re: What are some plants you've gotten for their fragrance?

    For many years I had a studio on a quiet terrace in Hong Kong and the old boy who looked after the house next door had pots and pots of Ginger Lily (also the signature scent of Shanghai Tang stores...
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