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  1. Replies
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    Sticky: Re: Primer on How to Make Perfume (Version 1.0)

    deleted
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    Re: Newbie needs your expert advice please :)

    What's the exact source of your two components? i.e. where did you get the "Perfumer's Alcohol" and "ISO E"? Brand name, where it came from, what's in it, etc? Sounds like there's something...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    Great idea for a thread Irina. Thanks!

    To Graphite: can you please share how you do your "easy as pie" amber tincture? i.e. starting materials?

    My ten in no order:
    Grisalva
    Labdanum (and...
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    Re: starter kit for absolute beginners

    Please read the first post at the top of the DIY forum. It lists a starter kit of 100 items.
  5. Re: Ambrofix versus Ambergris, equivalent strengths?

    At the risk of throwing a wrench in here, I have found that Grisalva (AKA amber furan http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1023391.html) is a very reliable substitute for ambergris, and I like...
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    Re: How to make Top note last all day?

    While I agree with everything that has been said above, I just saw this description of Nootkatone at www.allylix.com/content/nootkatone :

    "Because nootkatone is the most “substantive” citrus...
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    Re: Help choosing EO's

    To Badger_Bhoy: Think of perfumery as painting. Say you got a set of paint colours: red, blue and yellow. That's like your patchouli, lavender and bergamot. (Though there's a big difference in that...
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    Re: Becoming A Supplier

    Go for it. Start by publishing a website address listing the 35 items. See who buys from this DIY forum for starters. That should be a pretty cheap experiment. I'd love to see what you have for sale...
  9. Thread: Aroma

    by bshell
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    Re: Aroma

    Yes.
  10. Thread: Longevity

    by bshell
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    Re: Longevity

    This thread is really about two things so I'll give two answers:

    1. Longevity.
    I've noticed that the professionals use at least four ways to describe "longevity". If you use The Good Scents...
  11. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 12/2013

    Looking at the site I noticed a couple of things. They have "Lily" essential oil, but they never say what the species of lily is, or the source. Given that "Lily" oil is a bit vague and questionable,...
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    Re: Looking to hire a perfumer

    Savoy: here's an article that explains all the details required in what we call a "Perfume Brief", i.e. a total description of what you want:...
  13. Re: Petitgrain, the natural that ruins everything

    Can you point us to the cologne recipe from yesterday? I cannot find it.
  14. Thread: Feminine Musks

    by bshell
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    Re: Feminine Musks

    To me, Ethylene Brassylate is a feminine musk. It smells a lot like oil of olay and a lot of other cosmetics and perfumes that are pretty much solely used by women, not men. But what do I know. This...
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    Re: Performing a Gas-Chromatography...now.

    Really enjoyed your "Raiders" page André. Thank you so much for doing this. It was very instructive. I hope you do more such GC analyses of other perfumes.
  16. Re: Problems with blending oils with alcohol or water

    Oh dear. Whenever I see "about.com" in the browser address bar I immediately close the window. No matter what the subject. Stay away from anything on about.com and get out as quickly as possible if...
  17. Re: Problems with blending oils with alcohol or water

    To follow up from Paul...

    You need to tell us the source of the myrrh you used. Where did you get it? I suspect that your myrrh is not pure, but contains some solvent or other carrier, possibly an...
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    Re: The Fragrance of Dial Gold Soap

    OMG. That video is astonishing. Can't believe how much work went into one bar of soap. Times have changed. To answer your question Pears: I wish I could get some old original Pears soap to smell (and...
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    Re: Always Vanilla Ad - UGH!

    Maybe vanilla is kind of like patchouli. Only very skilled and subtle blends should be attempted. It's possible to use a tiny amount of patchouli in fragrances without anyone knowing it's there. But...
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    Re: The Fragrance of Dial Gold Soap

    Frankly, we could have a whole section in Basenotes DIY on great smelling soap and how to duplicate it. One of my favourites is a soap available in Canada called Goat's Milk Soap by Caprina (original...
  21. Re: Anyone has experience with Perfumer's Apprentice GC?

    Am I allowed to ask: How much does Perfumer's Apprentice charge for a GCMS analysis? I went to their site and there's a somewhat vague number of $100 shown. Is that what you people paid? i.e. those...
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    Re: Note sure how do describe a scent

    One way to experience the phenolic note is to go and buy some scotch whiskey that originates from the Isle of Islay. The major brands are given on this Wikipedia page:...
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    Re: The Fragrance of Dial Gold Soap

    There's already a thread about this here on basenotes: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/208054-The-smell-of-Dial-Gold-Soap

    They compare it to Santa Maria Novella Gold Musk, which is described on...
  24. Re: Should the fragrance concentrate be diluted in alcohol by weight or volume?

    By weight. That is the industry convention.
  25. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    What I don't understand is how places like Perfumer's Apprentice don't seem to have any problem whatsoever with small orders. They ship within a day or so. They charge minimal shipping costs (within...
  26. Re: Spicy, herbaceous smell when mixing bergamot and lavender

    I'll just chime in to say I have noticed the very same thing. I call it a "buzz" note, or a "jazz" note because it feels like an accord that is dissonant, if we want to use the musical analogy. And...
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    Re: Geosmin arrived, altered my formulation

    I've tried this (tincturing humus). It did not work that well. I came upon a pile of compost from the City of Vancouver, which consisted of well-rotted tree chips of various sorts. Passing by on my...
  28. Re: Anyone has experience with Perfumer's Apprentice GC?

    As long as we are going off topic, I have a "burning" question as well, which I hope David and other chemists can answer. Why, exactly, do we need to age perfumes after they are formulated and...
  29. Thread: Vanilla bean

    by bshell
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    Re: Vanilla bean

    I did the same thing as jsparia above. I bought a few vanilla beans from a local shop. They were VERY fragrant, even sending their intoxicating smell through the plastic bag. I took about 1/2 of a...
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    Sticky: Re: Links to perfumery books

    If we are allowed to add NEW perfume books then my current favourite is Scent and Chemistry: the molecular world of odors, by Gunther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen and Philip Kraft. This is an older...
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    Re: how do u clean your glass beakers

    As graphite suggests, there are two additional things you can do besides soap and water:

    1. Solvent. Try many kinds: cheap rubbing alcohol, acetone, paint thinner, etc.
    2. Lye. This is also...
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    Re: Jean Carles' sniffing test

    To Nizan: When you have a fragrance dissolved in an oil and you wish to get it out of the oi and into alcohol you can "wash" the oil with alcohol and get a fair bit into the alcohol. The best tool...
  33. Thread: Hedione effects

    by bshell
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    Re: Hedione effects

    Is it just me or does Hedione create a sort of cloying effect? When I use it (even at 1%) at first of course it's nice, but after a few hours when most of the other molecules have evaporated and the...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    Nizan: I started DIY perfumery about 3 years ago. In that time I've obtained oils from quite a few suppliers--maybe about 10 by now--and contrary to what you are saying, there are a huge number of...
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    Re: Honeysuckle absolute from Haven Essence

    If only suppliers would provide more information about where their products come from, how they were produced, and what precisely they contain we end-users would be far better served.

    For...
  36. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List ------Editing in progress 11/2013

    To Ipp: one thing that would be handy on this thread, or within Basenote's DIY section, would be some way of indicating the quality of oils and other raw ingredients available from the many suppliers...
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    Re: how do u clean your glass beakers

    I once asked a chemist over beers how to get the smell out of the tiny plastic funnels that I use when making very small experimental mixes in 2ml sample tubes. He said virtually all smelly molecules...
  38. Thread: Fuzzy Smell

    by bshell
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    Re: Fuzzy Smell

    I was thinking Timberol. Have you tried smelling this? In my notes I call it, "Hairy, buzzy, dry, male underarm..."
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    Re: Handsome, manly bottles?

    Don't forget Sunburst bottles. For instance, http://www.sunburstbottle.com/clear-glass-koi-bottle/p/KOIAS/
    And no minimum. And in USA.
  40. Re: Who sells a good, budget friendly, uncut, vanilla fragrance oil?

    Well, it's natural. If you eat beef, why not beaver (in trace amounts)?
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    Re: A tribute to my son

    It's real. Just click on the link and look at the pictures. Mine was this one: http://s1192.beta.photobucket.com/user/mattybaba/media/AMBERGRIS%20FOR%20SALE/8-1.jpg.html?sort=6&o=8
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    Re: A tribute to my son

    I originally posted this in the Ambergris thread in this DIY forum:

    You can get ambergris from Matt Turner in New Zealand. You can see some of what he has at Matt's Photobucket page.
    I bought 3gm...
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    Re: A tribute to my son

    Some kinds of ambergris have the exact smell of a fresh newborn baby, yet with an ambery smell. Maybe that would work. There are lots of different kinds of ambergris, though, so you will have to...
  44. Re: Micro samples... would that be of any interest?

    I'm in. Plus we should get clever and think up super cheap ways of doing this. I have found that a 1ml glass vile taped inside an ordinary greeting card (or any card stock) will go through the mails...
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    Sticky: Re: Splitting raw materials- please read!

    It seems the ideal outcome would be:

    1. That the discussion of musk and muscone be unlocked and reopened so that we can learn more about musk, e.g., the difference between l-muscone and "plain"...
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    Re: natural vs artificial musk

    I would like some, but only a small quantity. Is it too embarrassing to ask to be included for 10g? I will pay for shipping. I really only want 10 grams as I am a hobbyist and not a commercial...
  47. Sticky: Re: DIY Suppliers List

    http://www.sunburstbottle.com
  48. Re: Aroma/Fragrance supply houses in New York City

    Paul: thanks so much. This is very useful. I should have said: I don't mind paying for samples or for hard-to-find but fantastic materials. I did not meant free samples. The point is: I only want...
  49. Aroma/Fragrance supply houses in New York City

    I will be in New York city in February and would appreciate getting recommendations of outstanding fragrance-related places to visit when there. I do plan to visit the perfume show at the Museum of...
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    Re: Best Alcohol For Perfumes

    Make sure to read EVERY POST in the sticky above called "A question regarding the use of isopropyl myristate..." because this is our compendium of everything you'd ever want to know about alcohol to...
  51. Thread: Ambergris

    by bshell
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    7,598

    Re: Ambergris

    I studied organic chemistry in university. This stuff about 90, 95, 96% and "pure" ethanol is all irrelevant. One of the greatest lessons that my supervisor taught me over and over again while...
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    Re: always absolutes?

    Thanks to David and Pears for correcting and expanding on my initial attempt to explain the difference between essential oils and absolutes. Much appreciated.
  53. Replies
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    Re: always absolutes?

    Thanks to David and Pears for correcting and expanding on my initial attempt to explain the difference between essential oils and absolutes. Much appreciated.
  54. Replies
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    Re: always absolutes?

    Other more knowledgeable basenoters may chime in to correct me, but as far as I can determine there is no particular advantage. However, there is a big difference. I had a great lesson on this...
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    Re: always absolutes?

    The only thing your nose can recognize are molecules. Different combinations of molecules cause you to perceive different odours. Essential Oils (EOs) are extracted one way, and Absolutes are...
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    Re: Notes & Ingredients

    Though I am still a rank amateur, my perfumes have about 6 - 20 ingredients, many of which are essential oils, which themselves are combinations of hundreds of odorous molecules. Looking over my...
  57. Thread: Ambergris

    by bshell
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    Re: Ambergris

    Another great place to get Ambergris is from Matt Turner in New Zealand. You can see some of what he has at Matt's Photobucket page.
    I bought 3gm for about $80 plus shipping--the stuff I describe...
  58. Thread: Ambrene 50?

    by bshell
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    1,411

    Re: Ambrene 50?

    Maybe you can set up a free skype chat with Linda. Send her an email and check.
  59. Thread: Cigar base note

    by bshell
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    1,484

    Re: Cigar base note

    i found that hay absolute from Hermitage in England smells quite a lot like tobacco.
  60. Re: Best book on perfume making: a gift for someone that wants to DIY perfume

    Actually, I think Mandy Aftel's book will be excellent. In fact it *does* take the reader through a precise recipe--i.e. precise enough for a beginner. It was my first book, and I found it very...
  61. Thread: Ambrene 50?

    by bshell
    Replies
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    1,411

    Re: Ambrene 50?

    Two ideas. Maybe it's this: http://www.thegoodscentscompany.com/data/rw1023231.html
    Or fire an email to Linda at PA. She's very responsive.
  62. Replies
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    Re: Tobacco, Hay or Tonka?

    One thing I will add: I ordered the Hay and Tobacco from Hermitage, and they are a bit difficult to work with. They smell good. The Hay smells like pipe tobacco to me. The tobacco is a bit more...
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    Re: Ideas for non-citrus topnotes

    Coriander. Pink Peppercorn. Cardamon. Basil. Linalool. Cistus.
  64. Replies
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    Re: Benzoin Question

    From my own impressions: Benzoin is sweet caramel, warm, woody, sugary. Still very nice after several hours becoming like warm pancakes with maple syrup. Even a day later a trace is still there on...
  65. Poll: Re: Vote for the best "TAWAF" review and you can win some Tawaf...

    The poll ended yesterday Oct 11, but Profumo is not announcing the winner until Oct 26, according to his Tawaf thread on his Basenotes Profumo Group pages. Any idea why? Is he on holiday?
  66. Poll: Re: Vote for the best "TAWAF" review and you can win some Tawaf...

    Not just his name, but a very good thought and idea which was not present in his runner up review. In fact if you look at the Tawaf discussion thread on Profumo's Basenotes group...
  67. Poll: Re: Vote for the best "TAWAF" review and you can win some Tawaf...

    Hello Grant,

    I hope you realize that under "G" there are TWO reviews. You really need to have G1 and G2 because accidentally two reviews were placed under G.
  68. Thread: Ambergris

    by bshell
    Replies
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    7,598

    Re: Ambergris

    I have a small sample of ambergris tincture from Profumo. I love the smell. The stuff I have is quite dilute but I can really smell it. To me, it smells like the coat of an old uncle from the 1950s....
  69. Re: Tips on avoiding olfactory dissonance with Bergamot and Lavender

    Wow. Thanks so much to Hirch, Jan, Conni, Chris, and everyone else. I agree with Gido, this is indeed an amazing group. Here is the formula that is giving me the "buzz":

    Oak moss 5...
  70. Re: Tips on avoiding olfactory dissonance with Bergamot and Lavender

    I do have both linalool and linalyl acetate, so I could try some experiments as you suggest Chris. Thanks.
  71. Re: Tips on avoiding olfactory dissonance with Bergamot and Lavender

    Renegade: I'm talking about my experience with these two separately, not mixed. I mean either of them in a blend on their own. Yes, they may have the element on their own in isolation, but it's not...
  72. Tips on avoiding olfactory dissonance with Bergamot and Lavender

    Now that I've been fooling around with perfumery for about a year and a half I have noticed that a lot of my concoctions easily get what I call a dissonance. This is analogous to in music when you...
  73. Re: The best type of alcohol for a spray perfume (my concerns).

    Welcome Attract.
    First you need to read this poorly titled sticky thread near the top of this forum:...
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    Ideas for a perfumery/olfaction workshop

    I've been asked by a company to come in to deliver a half-day workshop based on perfumery/olfaction/odours, etc. as a method of team-building among staff. Does anyone on this forum have any...
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    Re: How do you make labels?

    Bogey: Thanks for the post. Can you give more details? What label tape do you use? What width? The Brother line is often criticized for wasting lots of tape. Do you have any general tips on how to...
  76. Replies
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    Re: How do you make labels?

    Thanks Renegade, yes, of course I do that, but what about bottles that could be around for months, or years--bottles that will be on your shelf for a long time and that you want to be able to find...
  77. Replies
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    How do you make labels?

    I have not seen this topic discussed, but it seems important since, as a perfume DIYer I'm *ALWAYS* making labels. Labels for dilution bottles, labels for experimental 1 and 2ml vials, labels for...
  78. Re: Can we use the scientific literature to predict scent diffusion rates?

    Dear Wiserd: the table you are looking for can be found in the classic perfumery book by Calkin and Jellinek: Perfumery, Practice and Principles. If you follow this link to Google books and then...
  79. Replies
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    Re: buying aroma chemicals

    If you can order from the USA, The Perfumer's Apprentice will sell you Galaxolide for a few dollars. You don't need much.
  80. Re: Any ideas on what to do with this bottle of barnyard Oud?

    You can still use it in all sorts of blends, in the same way you can use civet, castoreum, hyrax and other "bad" smelling things. Even some aldehydes smell horrible on their own, but they are key...
  81. Re: Can we use the scientific literature to predict scent diffusion rates?

    I think in this sense, E means "exponent" not Euler's number, e. It means the vapour pressure is 1.02 x 10^-7 or .000000102 mm of mercury at room temperature. The one that is -05 has the higher...
  82. Replies
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    Re: Labdanum , Cistus ....are they the same???

    I believe that Labdanum and Cistus are the same thing. The Latin name of the Rock Rose plant from which it is derived is cistus ladanifer (Wikipedia entry). All over the place in the literature and...
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    Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Also check out this. http://www.basenotes.net/ID26120997.html It's from 1880 so they probably get the lilac smell in some natural way. Maybe there are write ups about how Lilac Vegetal is made.
  84. Replies
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    Re: An enfleurage question about lilac flowers

    Great thread Mumsy. Keep reporting as you progress. My lilacs are still a week away from blooming so, based on your experience I will soon follow.
  85. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    Wow. Very impressive research work CK. But it tends to show that: NO, there's virtually no ambergris to be found in the Pacific Northwest. Those articles were from the 1940s and 50s. The coal harbour...
  86. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    Does ambergris ever appear on the beaches of the Pacific Northwest? We usually hear of it on Arabian beaches or in New Zealand. What about around Vancouver, Canada?
  87. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    Dear CJKemp, I'm thinking of buying some ambergris from a guy in New Zealand, but how do I know that it's real? Or that it's of any quality. The smallest amount costs about $100. Do you have any...
  88. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    ONE BIG QUESTION: is it poop or vomit?
  89. Thread: Synthetic Notes

    by bshell
    Replies
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    2,188

    Re: Synthetic Notes

    I was the one who asked Chris to comment on these molecules, which I received from Symrise. Here's my own experience:

    Cyclogalbanat: At 10% I cannot truly make out anything much. Certainly not...
  90. Re: IFRA rules re their sensible use - Oakmoss and others

    Today I joined the Perfumers Guild and discovered that a couple years ago they had a program, here on Basenotes, to simply create "Outlaw" perfumes. Last Fall they held a project called "Brave New...
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    Re: Best Lavender to add...

    I'd like to echo Hirch's point above. I've had exactly the same experience with Lavender lately. It happens with any lavender, I find, including Hermitage's brilliant and gorgeous green stuff. If...
  92. Replies
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    Re: complete newbie, which starter kit please.

    Hi Chris: yes Labdanum. Profumo's "cistus" is a really nice one, too. The tuberose and osmanthus are not overly expensive, though they are somewhat more dilute, (everything is diluted in 95%...
  93. Replies
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    Re: complete newbie, which starter kit please.

    To add to Chris Bartlett's excellent posts, I'd just reiterate that you MUST dilute most of the aroma chemicals to at least 10% and quite often 1% or even less. Some, such as Lyral, start off where...
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    Re: Handbook, any suggestions?

    I learned a fair bit from Mandy Aftel's book Essence and Alchemy.
  95. Thread: Substantivity

    by bshell
    Replies
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    943

    Re: Substantivity

    Someone else with more experience will hopefully chime in, but the answer is YES! This is a very important factor. I think a good perfume should have a wide ranging mix of elements with differing...
  96. Re: Problems with blending oils with alcohol or water

    Repogirl: It's impossible to tell from the Lowe's website what is actually in the can of "Denatured Alcohol" shown. Part of the confusion and conflicting information you are experiencing arises from...
  97. Re: A uniquely Canadian smell: Goat's milk soap by Canus in Quebec.

    Hi Mumsy,
    I would not use vanilla, balsam, benzoin or jasmine. Maybe more rose? Less attar. I'm always suspicious of attars because they could have all sorts of strange things in them.
    Mine smells...
  98. Re: A uniquely Canadian smell: Goat's milk soap by Canus in Quebec.

    Came pretty close today with this combo:

    Top:
    Blood Orange 5
    Lemon 3
    Lime 2
    (mint green) 0 (Don't have any mint)

    Middle:
    Clove 3
  99. Re: A uniquely Canadian smell: Goat's milk soap by Canus in Quebec.

    Mumsy: yes, red one. "Original Fragranced". I have not smelled the other ones.
  100. Re: A uniquely Canadian smell: Goat's milk soap by Canus in Quebec.

    Here's the URL: http://www.caprina.com/canada/en/products/caprina/viewbyformula/original/original_soap.html
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Loving perfume on the Internet since 2000