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  1. Replies
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    Re: Fresh hay accords

    I've made a nice fresh hay accord with combining 4 parts Hay absolute (you could probably use coumarin if you don't have hay), 4 parts African Bluegrass and 2 parts Hexenyl Cis-3 Saliciylate. Tweek...
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    Re: What is your mother's signature ????

    My mother had a number of perfumes, but one that I associate most with her is Chantilly. She must have been wearing it during some of my happiest memories of her. When I smell it, I immediately...
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    Re: bourgeons de cassis

    I actually have a little 35 page book from IFF about Blackcurrent Bud extraction. It has no date on it but I've had it for several years. Here are a few pics that could possibly be helpful.

    38926
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    Re: Bacon fragrance

    This might help you also:

    http://www.compoundchem.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Aroma-Chemistry-Bacon.png
  5. Re: Why are Perfumes and Colognes so popular?

    Everything culturally interesting is really a contrivance. If you didn’t have it, you wouldn’t have modern culture at all: no artifice, no city planning, no media, no culturally acceptable...
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    Re: Splash Bottles

    I love splash bottles. While they are a little less convenient than a quick spray, they really enhance the 'perfume experience' IMO, because just the little ritual of removing the stopper or cap,...
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    Re: My collection so far...Portrait of a Lady

    Wow, what a beautiful, well-constructed bottle that is! You don't see such rare treasures every day. A true collector could hardly be faulted by wanting to add something like this to their...
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    Re: E.O. Distilling at Home

    The Essential Oil Company in Portland Oregon has an excellent selection of a wide range of distillation equipment. You should be able to find what you need and get it from a reliable source here, if...
  9. Re: Have you ever doctored up an existing scent to make it 'better' or more to you liking?

    I haven't ever doctored up a perfume that I have bought since, to me, I wouldn't have bought it if I didn't already love it, and also, it's sort of sacriledge to alter someone else's work; like...
  10. Thread: Ginger?

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Ginger?

    You could try Prismantol. Arcadi Boix Camps mentions this product in his book as having a ginger component. He says:

    " Prismantol: 4-methyl-8-methylenetricyclo-(3.3.3)-decan-2-ol: This is an...
  11. Re: Less volatile alternative to Methyl Salicylate

    No, rectified Birch Tar is different than Sweet Birch. It is deep, smoky, phenolic and used in leathery scents, but it is distilled from birch so it has a wintergreen-like component to it. It...
  12. Re: Less volatile alternative to Methyl Salicylate

    Perhaps this is too obvious, but could rectified Birch Tar work for you? I know its main constituent is methyl salicylate, but because of its other molecules and deep and heavy consistancy, it may...
  13. Re: SOTD - Valentine's Day Scent - Saturday 14th February 2015

    All I could think of when I saw this was: WOW! If you have this, I wonder where and what your Valentines dinner was?
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    Re: Sourcing Rum Absolute

    I find that Ethyl Propionate mixed with a very small amount of Blackcurrant bud absolute or ribes makes an excellent rum aroma for perfumery.
  15. Poll: Re: Single most helpful, yet unavailable, piece of information:

    It all boils down to either being a leader or a follower.

    Most younger people are blind followers. If all you want to do is fit in with your pier group, by all means, discriminate by age. But...
  16. Re: Recs please for a newbie that wants to give her sandalwood it's just due +

    Since (true) Sandalwood is one of the few oils that actually gets better with age, I would be inclined to leave it alone, tightly sealed in a cool, dark spot, and use neat as desired. No blend is...
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    Re: Fragrances that smell exactly like things

    Almost everything in the Demeter 'library' is a replica of a commonly associated scent. There's dozens of them.

    http://www.demeterfragrance.com/58083/All-Classic-Scents.html?npp=144
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    Re: Disgusted by IFRA perfume regulations

    I know this may be drawing a fine line in some people’s minds, but it seems to me that IFRA regulations have a definitive place in the perfumery of household products, as they are being widely used...
  19. Re: Please don't use "Old Lady" or "Old Man" 'scent' as description...it's offensive

    I couldn't agree with you more. It immediately denigrates anything older than a few years to be obsolete and therefore to be scorned. It’s ridiculous, and it’s wholly dismissive.

    Why should...
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    Re: DIY! Fossilized Amber Tincture

    I did this also a number of years ago, reliably sourced my amber from Kremer Pigmente, crushed and tinctured it for many months, and I have to say I was not happy with the results. It was not the...
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    Re: Your top 10 perfumery raw materials

    So tough to narrow this down.... (and I'm sure I'd change my mind by tomorrow), but:

    1. Vetiver (Haitian)
    2. Ethyl Maltol
    3. Styrax
    4. Petitgrain
    5. Citral
    6. Aurantiol
    7. Cashmeran (or...
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    Re: Bleaching a fragrance?

    You could try straining it through Fuller's Earth. It is used for clarifying many liquids, but I think I would only try it on the final product and not something like a pure absolute. You can...
  23. Thread: Blue Lotus

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Blue Lotus

    Enfleurage carries it.

    http://www.enfleurage.com/categories/essential-oils/Absolutes/
  24. Re: A Slice of Guenther and Arctander History Courtesy of E.S. Mauer

    Wow, these look really interesting, but your thumbnails are just too small to pick up any of the verbage. Still, you must be thrillled to have found those inside your book; I know I sure would be! ...
  25. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    Perhaps Pepper or Anisic Aldehyde?
  26. Re: How to built a Chypre ( Mitsouko direction) accord.

    This may be close, as according to Jean-Paul Guerlain said himself in his book, Mitsouko only has 10 ingredients!
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    Re: What smells say "Hawaii" to you?

    Jasmine sambac (pikake) also is reminiscent of Hawaii, as they are traditionally used to make leis!
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    Re: What smells say "Hawaii" to you?

    As expected I would say coconut, pineapple, lime, mango intermixed with a calone-type fresh scent would represent iconic Hawaii to me. Nothing new there but I would suppose that these would come to...
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    Re: Bitter top notes

    As cliche as they may sound, linalyl acetate, dihydromyrcenol, lime oil, cis-3 hexenol and linalool are all good, classic male fragrance top notes that could be tweeked toward 'bitter' by other...
  30. Re: Oilahuasca & Serotonin From Nature & Lucid Dreams

    DopeyOne, If you are simply seeking the depth of euphoria through scent, I suggest you wean yourself of drugs and turn to true perfumery. You can’t appreciate the subtle beauties and nuances of...
  31. Re: Have people stopped buying Guerlain after the racist remarks?

    Do people avoid Chanel because Coco Chanel was a Nazi collaborator and anti-Semite?
  32. Re: Young Living FDA Inspections, Compliance, Enforcement, and Criminal Investigations

    Good news...I always thought they were another one of the pseudo-religious groups similar to Amway and their ilk. They've always made preposterous claims and are a detriment to science. Thanks for...
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    Re: Fragrance references in fiction books or films

    Came upon this while watching old reruns.
    In a 2nd Season of Big Bang Theory, episode (21) entitled The Vegas Renormalization, Howard Wolowitz explains to Leonard and Raj who are getting ready to go...
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    Re: Fragrance references in fiction books or films

    What is the difference between the boxes of vintage L'heure Bleue and Mitsouko, if any?
  35. Thread: Aging Process

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Aging Process

    The preferred term I believe, is 'maturing'. Depending on the formula, anywhere from a few weeks to several months.
  36. Re: Can Pure Oud Oils Be Diluted In Perfumers Alcohol

    Arcadi boix Camps talks at length about his use of Oud in his perfumery:
    https://www.facebook.com/pages/Arcadi-boix-camps/204944976267418
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    Re: What is "aromatherapy"?

    There is so much info out there about Aromatherapy, good and bad. You will just have to research this for yourself. Don't be mislead by the name; it's a much more interesting subject than just the...
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    Re: I blame you basenotes :p

    I did choke a little when you said that you had thrown out your old designer scents.... ‘thrown out’? Literally or figuratively, (as in: gave it away to someone else who might enjoy them, or sold...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    Many are still under the misapprehension that aromatherapy is all about smell....it is not...it is about application of diluted and direct EOs to the skin that are absorbed subcutaneously.
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    The very fact that we are on this perfume forum is proof that scent affects all of us, with no scientific facts to explain most of our passions in it. Do we always need to prove why we love a...
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    Re: Green Tea Accord

    You could try using some Tagetes minuta which has a very tea-like aroma. Its very strong, so careful dilution would be essential. To that, you could try adding a small amount of diluted galbanum or...
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    Re: Small note on natural perfumes

    It all comes down to the human capacity to relate to something tangible, and essential oils and so-called ‘naturals’ are all created from real, often organic, tangible plants and resinous materials...
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    Re: Heliotrope Absolute

    Here is a simple formula for a Heliotrope fragrance from Formulary of Perfumes and Cosmetics by R. M. Gattefosse’:

    Terpineol 450 gms
    Heliotropin 200
    Vanillin 100
    Musk ketone 50...
  44. Re: Notes vs. Ingredients - What matters is how it smells, not what it is made of

    It seems to me that so many of the best perfumes and aromas are beyond mere verbal descriptives, for the most part, and, as purplebird says, ‘mere language fails to convey’ what many scents evoke...
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    Re: Ambergris in the UK

    I know Heston Blumenthal uses a lump of ambergris to enhance a chocolate drink in the opening segment of the Christmas episode of season 1 of his show Hestons Feast. (He DID reference it wrongly as...
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    Re: Fragrance references in fiction books or films

    29141

    They don't mention it, but they do show Mrs Crawley receiving some Guerlain perfume for Christmas in Season 2, episode 10 of Downton Abbey.
  47. Re: Great FRÉDÉRIC MALLE Interview, - Interesting slant on All Natural Scents too

    I think what Malle has done has been ground-breaking and he had all that it takes, including bravery, to buck the system enough to set the trend in the right direction. Giving great perfumers a...
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    Re: Making Myrrh More Palatable

    You could try Petitgrain or Juniper.
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    Re: Budget flower EOs

    Ylang Ylang in various grades is relatively inexpensive. It's been called 'the poor man's jasmine'.
    I believe Geranium is not distilled from the flowers, but from the leaves, if that matters.
  50. It is so alarming that in a world that houses...

    It is so alarming that in a world that houses billions of people, that only a handful of them are willing to dedicate some of themselves to preserving the jewels of scent: one of the most important...
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    Re: Liatris Odoratissima

    Deerstongue was featured in Julia Lawless' book of Essential Oils, but I have never come across this oil available anywhere. Is this plant/oil something only seen in GB?
  52. Thread: Honey Notes

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Honey Notes

    I've made a nice honey accord with a blend of Benzoin, Vanillin and Ethyl vanillin, Ethyl maltol, Aurantiol, Davana EO and a daub of Butterscotch flavour.
    You'll have to play with your own...
  53. Re: How hard is it to get into fragrance creation?

    Just be aware that just getting to know your materials can be a large financial investment. It's great fun though, and certainly develops those synapses in ways that are beyond verbal descriptives. ...
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    Re: newbiw with hundreds of perfumes

    It's not how many you love, it's that you love...period!
    Welcome to Basenotes. You've got loads of great reading material before you!
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    Re: Natural vs synthetic

    The thing is, if a line is drawn with ‘naturals’, then really Natural Perfumers should not blend any ‘natural’ essential oil or product with something else, as doing so will change it’s chemical...
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    Re: What is the closest to Cashmeran?

    It could also be described as having an ozone-like quality.
  57. Replies
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    Re: Natural vs synthetic

    One of the problems stems from the perfume industry itself, in that they have solicited naturals as being the epitome of their own mostly synthetic perfumes by describing them as such. The ‘notes’...
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    Re: What is the closest to Cashmeran?

    Yeah....I'd say if you poured pine over popcorn, you'd be very close. It really hits the top of your nose in the way that pine and tart fruits can do, but it's not tart in any way, but woody and...
  59. Thread: Benzoin

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Benzoin

    From what I understand, no one is really certain what the bibical reference for 'onchya' actually is. It is only speculated by some to be Benzoin; others believe it was referring to a snail...
  60. Re: Mitti attar reconstruction minus the sandalwood

    The mitti I have from 10 years ago or so smells mostly like sandalwood also, with just a touch of humus/earth.

    I also have a small amount of something I blended about that long ago also, which...
  61. Replies
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    Re: Modern Fougere

    This article from Perfume Shrine may be helpful : Definition: Terpenic, Phenolic & Camphoraceous in Fragrances

    http://perfumeshrine.blogspot.com/2012/02/definition-terpenic-phenolic.html
  62. Re: You wish to channel Oliver Reed’s unparalleled masculinity, what fragrance do you wear?

    I'd say Kouros - smoldering, sexy brute.
  63. Thread: Ambergris

    by Nymphaea
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    23,792

    Re: Ambergris

    This was in Perfumer & Flavorist mag the other day: 183 lbs of ambergris for lucky Ecomare of the Netherlands....
    ...
  64. Re: What do you think the trend of men's fragrance will smell like in the year 2050?

    I agree that scents will play into our lives in completely new ways and delivered through our glasses electronically or something along those line. Some new technology will come along that makes...
  65. Replies
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    Re: What Perfumer/nose speaks to you best?

    I would have to say that Sophia Grojsman really knows what speaks to my heart. Almost every perfume she creates is rich, complex, lush and enticing and a complete treasure! It almost seems...
  66. Replies
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    Re: funniest compliments you got

    It doesn’t matter what perfume I wear, when I ask my husband what he thinks of my perfume, he ALWAYS says …’smells like soap’. Jeez…you’d think he’d have a much broader repertoire of associations...
  67. Replies
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    Re: What is it with male perfumers…

    If this were true, why are all perfume ads focused on models dressed in luxurious couture, elaborate makeup and set in fantastical settings?
  68. Replies
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    Re: Handy Perfumer's Search page

    This is excellent and so easy to use! Thanks so much!
  69. Re: serious question: convincing your loved ones you are not crazy

    It's like collecting pieces of art. THAT would never be considered a sickness.

    You could say that anything that expands your sensual knowledge and pleasure is absolutely SACRED! It's what makes...
  70. Thread: Frankincense

    by Nymphaea
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    4,902

    Re: Frankincense

    Boswellia carterii is richer and has the most depth. I always describe it as having a resinous cola fiz scent. Boswellia serrata is less strong and distinct, with a lighter whispier scent, and not...
  71. Re: Real Ambergris - how powerful is the smell meant to be?

    Perhaps, because Agarscents are know for their Ouds, they have blended a bit of oud into the ambergris, to give it depth and nuance. Can't imagine a better combination for simbiatic fixation.
  72. Re: Artist Transforms Body Odor Into Olfactory Self-Portrait

    This has been done for centuries really. You may have heard of 'love apples'... that women, to entice a potenial lover, would tuck a cut apple into their armpit for several days to absorb their...
  73. Re: Diary of a perfumer in training: would anyone be interested?

    This sounds delightful to me. I would love to follow your thoughts on this!
  74. Thread: Mittl Attar

    by Nymphaea
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    Re: Mittl Attar

    Here is a beautiful, in-depth description of it from Christopher McMahons White Lotus site.

    http://www.whitelotusaromatics.com/newsletters/mitt
  75. Replies
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    British Boy find huge chunk of Ambergris

    For those of you who didn't see this in yesterday's news... an 8 year old boy found a large piece of Ambergris while walking on the beach of Hengistbury Head. What a lucky chap!

    (Mumsy, is this...
  76. Re: What smells from childhood influenced your liking of their notes in fragrances today?

    I don't think that copaiba balsam is used in perfumery much, but the smell of it sweeps me back to my childhood and comforting memories of my mother china painting in the evenings (copaiba balsam is...
  77. Replies
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    Re: Health concerns regarding fragrance.

    I suppose that I have mixed feeling about this.

    Secrecy has been entrenched in the perfume industry for so long, that it is hard to think outside of that tradition. But to be honest, those ways...
  78. Re: What smells from childhood influenced your liking of their notes in fragrances today?

    Perhaps your mother still has the perfume tucked away unused somewhere, or she may still remember what it was.
  79. Replies
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    Re: Health concerns regarding fragrance.

    Of course you can not list every molecule in an essential oil, because many of the trace elements are not even known and would certainly vary from batch to batch. (Grocers do not have to break down...
  80. Re: The unbelievable strangeness of essential oils

    You are under the mistaken notion that essential oils are what you are smelling in most commercial perfumes. You are not.

    As most perfumer lovers eventually discover, most commercial perfumes...
  81. Replies
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    Re: Looking for an old brand

    Could this be the brand you are thinking of? I've had this in my collection for eons! The company is Sunshine Products. It's the only one I remember with a wood top. They are perfume oils, not...
  82. Re: Article: Mandy Aftel launches line of essential oils for adding to food or drink

    It seems appropriate that Mandy Aftel would come out with an edible line of essential oils, considering her wonderful book on using EOs in cooking a few years back. I have to assume, although I...
  83. Replies
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    Re: 'Biblical' Fragrance (imagination)

    It’s interesting to note that many perfume materials started out, or were simultaneously used medicinally. The antiseptic power of resins has been long known, so pine (turpentine), frankincense,...
  84. Replies
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    Re: 'Biblical' Fragrance (imagination)

    In addition to all the ones mentioned above, Cinnamon, Cassia and Calamus are also often mentioned in ancient text on perfumery, not to mention many things that we don't really think of as perfume...
  85. Re: Actually heard someone say "old lady scent"! About a Tauer!

    I don’t see the term ‘old lady scent’ as innocuous at all. Because perfume is most certainly connected to couture and the fashion industry which almost exclusively promotes itself through imagery of...
  86. Oh no... another big loss for the perfume world! ...

    Oh no... another big loss for the perfume world! We salute you Monsieur Robert.
  87. Mr. Bailey sounds like a great person to head the...

    Mr. Bailey sounds like a great person to head the Society, with such insight and such a diverse and interesting background. Congrats to him! He may be the perfect person to rally appreciation for...
  88. Replies
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    Re: Laughable Clive Christian Pomp and Nonsense

    Ms. Christian must have been a ballet dancer or something, or perhaps studied mime; she appears to be trying to talk to the deaf, with her uber-gesturing. It's all just so over the top.
  89. Re: A new way to enjoy your favorite scents, with a humidifier

    I also add a few drops of a favorite (but not too expensive) perfume or essential oil to my vacuum filter...it's amazing how vacuuming can spread the scent around the house.
  90. I whole-heartedly agree with you Thomas; this...

    I whole-heartedly agree with you Thomas; this book was fascinating to anyone interested in this mysterious substance, either due to perfumery, gastronomy, history or biology. I loved every minute of...
  91. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris -- NOW AVAILABLE

    I just bought this book and am anxiously ready to dive into it! This looks to be a very fun read! Thanks Christopher!
  92. Replies
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    Re: Alec Lawless RIP

    Oh, this is such TRAGIC news! He was far too young to go. What a unique person he was!
    Sad, SAD news, indeed!

    :cry::cry:
  93. Replies
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    Re: Laughable Clive Christian Pomp and Nonsense

    Somebody gag me with a silver spoon!
  94. Replies
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    Re: Make my own cologne

    Fenugreek is probably a mistake to use. (I see that you've eliminated it.) While it is excellent as a food spice, it is not wise to use it in perfumery. A tincture of it will seize up your blend; it...
  95. Thread: Myrrh

    by Nymphaea
    Replies
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    Re: Myrrh

    To me myrrh has always smelled like sharp, dry, resinous anise.
  96. Replies
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    Re: Fragrances made in China

    If something is created and originates from China, fine. No problem. But when a product long produced somewhere else is suddenly being made in China, it is strictly for cheap labor, degraded product...
  97. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    I found this very interesting article on Mr. Kemp's book on ambergris:http://www.mlive.com/living/grand-rapids/index.ssf/2012/02/grand_rapids_biologist_sees_hu.html.
  98. Replies
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    Re: What cologne would the devil wear?

    He wouldn't wear one....he would prefer the natural animal scents of the human body!!!!!!!!!
  99. Re: Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris

    The history of the acquisition and use of this material is absolutely fascinating and I think a book on this subject is long overdue. I'm sure every fragrance enthusiast is going to pounce on this...
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    Re: Has Anyone Seen A Chanel Bottle Like This?

    I always thought that a 'lotion' perfume had a jelling agent to make it more viscous to slide on the skin, as in after a bath and such.
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